Auctions

Sotheby’s Selling Jewelry That Belonged to a Bulgarian Tsar

AuctionsOct 08, 2024

Sotheby’s Selling Jewelry That Belonged to a Bulgarian Tsar

The November auction will feature a collection of jewels owned by Ferdinand I, the first king of modern Bulgaria, and his family.

Sotheby’s A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria
Sotheby’s upcoming auction “A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria (1861-1948)” will offer jewelry that belonged to Tsar Ferdinand, such as this colored diamond pin (right), as well as pieces passed down from his mother, including this ruby, sapphire, and diamond bracelet (left), and pieces made for his children. It is scheduled to take place Nov. 13 in Geneva.
Geneva—As part of its Royal & Noble Jewels sale in Geneva next month, Sotheby’s will auction a collection of jewels that once belonged to Ferdinand I, the first king of modern Bulgaria.

“A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria (1861-1948),” will feature 114 lots that span a century and were part of the history of the family of Tsar Ferdinand of Saxe-Coborg-Gotha.

These pieces, which have not been seen publicly in nearly 100 years, are making their debut at auction, where the collection is estimated to fetch $1.2 million to $1.8 million. 

The offering comprises Tsar Ferdinand’s personal jewels and heirlooms from his mother, as well as pieces passed down through members of his immediate lineage and pieces made for his children. 

His personal items “gloriously elevate” typically masculine and practical personal items, like cufflinks and cigarette cases, into works of art, the auction house said.

According to queer history education platform Making Queer History, the tsar was a “boldly effeminate bisexual ruler” who had a passion for opulent fashion.

“Around his neck, Ferdinand wore a gem-encrusted cross on a silver chain, and was mocked across Europe for being the leading monarch in history to cram the most jeweled pins, metals, and brooches on his tunic to a point where Kaiser Wilhelm II once described Ferdinand as ‘festooned with decorations like a Christmas tree,’” the site says.

The piece expected to be the sale’s top lot is a yellow gold tie pin with a fleur-de-lis motif set with a 2.08-carat pear-shaped fancy gray-blue diamond and four other colored diamonds.

Tsar Ferdinand’s yellow gold colored diamond tie pin
Tsar Ferdinand’s yellow gold tie pin features a 2.08-carat pear-shaped fancy gray-blue diamond; a 0.65-carat fancy pink diamond; a 0.52-carat fancy green diamond; a 0.47-carat fancy deep brown-orange diamond; and a 0.13-carat fancy intense green-yellow diamond.


The piece, made in the early 20th century, is estimated to sell for $500,000 to $700,000.

The jewelry auction, said by Sotheby’s to have a “distinct, sophisticated, and international nature,” also features pieces by several Austro-Hungarian jewelers, as well as the leading jewelers of that time, such as Bapst, Eugène Fontenay, Froment-Meurice, and Castellani.

A colored gemstone and diamond bracelet by Eugène Fontenay is estimated to sell for $40,000 to $60,000.

Eugène Fontenay gem set bracelet 1870
The Eugène Fontenay bracelet, circa 1870, set with graduated cushion-cut gemstones including spinels, sapphires, emeralds, and yellow sapphires, and framed by old cushion-shaped and rose diamonds


Tsar Ferdinand’s eldest daughter, Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria (1898-1985), owned the bracelet. 

It was passed down from her mother (the ruler’s first wife), Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria (1870-1899), who likely inherited the piece from her mother, Princess Maria Pia of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Duchess of Parma (1849-1882).

While the pieces exemplify the importance of high jewelry for the most prominent European royal houses across the 19th and early 20th centuries, they are also a testimony to the tsar’s “exquisite taste,” said Sotheby’s.

His sense was likely inspired by his mother, Princess Clementine of Orleans (1817-1907), who was an avid jewelry collector.

A ruby, sapphire, and diamond bracelet, attributed to Bapst circa 1880, from her collection is also on offer. 

Bapst bracelet 1880
A ruby, sapphire, and diamond bracelet, attributed to Bapst, from the collection of Princess Clémentine of Orléans


It is estimated to sell for $30,000 to $50,000. 

The sale also features tiaras, brooches, bracelets, and objects of vertu, Sotheby’s said, together reflecting a century of evolution in tastes and designs created for the most influential ruling families in Central Europe from the mid-19th century forward.  

 Related stories will be right here … 
 
Ferdinand I was elected prince of Bulgaria in 1887, and in 1908, he assumed the title of Tsar after Bulgaria gained independence from the Ottoman Empire. 

He abdicated the throne in 1918 and left for Coburg, Germany, where he lived until his death in 1948.

This past summer, his remains were repatriated to Bulgaria

While his youngest child Princess Nadejda already was in Germany, Ferdinand’s remaining family endured the Red Army’s invasion of Bulgaria in the 1940s. 

His two sons, including his successor Tsar Boris III, died during the war, leaving only Princess Eudoxia, who was being held prisoner in her home.

When the invaders allowed her a chance to leave the country, she escaped to Germany, taking with her bags of the family’s jewels, which were deposited into a bank vault in 1946.

The tucked away jewels were rediscovered last year and, in November 2023, were offered in the largest collection of imperial and royal jewelry ever put up for auction at Sotheby’s white-glove sale of “Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection.”

This upcoming sale is an extension of that story.

A diamond bandeau that Princess Nadejda wore in her wedding is on offer, estimated to sell for $80,000 to $120,000. 

Rothe & Neffe 1890s diamond bandeau
The diamond bandeau, circa 1890s, Princess Nadejda of Württemberg (1899-1958) wore at her wedding to Albrecht Eugen, Duke of Württemberg (1895-1954)


The tiara likely was created by Viennese jeweler Rothe & Neffe for her mother, Sotheby’s said.

Another highlight is Princess Eudoxia’s diamond rivière necklace, which has a pre-sale estimate of $100,000 to $150,000.

She inherited the late 19th-century piece from her mother, Princess Marie Louise.

Princess Eudoxia’s diamond rivière necklace
Princess Eudoxia inherited this necklace from her mother Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria.


When Princess Marie Louise married Ferdinand I in 1893, her father Robert, Duke of Parma (1848-1907), gave her two rows of diamonds as a wedding gift, and this necklace likely contains one of the rows, according to Sotheby’s. 


To bring this collection to auction, Sotheby’s collaborated with the Philipp Württemberg Art Advisory GmbH, which also worked with the auction house on “Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection.”

Founder Philipp Württemberg said, “This collection of jewels has never left the family of Tsar Ferdinand of Bulgaria. It is a very intimate ensemble. Some pieces belonged to Tsar Ferdinand’s wife or mother, but many of others show his personal choice and taste, like the fabulous colored diamond pin or the extraordinary collection of cufflinks.”

Sotheby’s said the offering is among the most important collections of royal and noble jewels from the courts of Central Europe ever to come to auction.

“‘A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria’ is a unique continuation of ‘Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection,’ offering us a privileged glimpse into the tsar’s refined lifestyle, comprising jewels and objects that were illustrative of his personal life,” said Andres White Correal, chairman of Sotheby’s jewelry Europe and Middle East and head of Noble Jewels.

“His collection is a confluence of the most prominent Central European Royal families’ passion for extraordinary objects. Here, excellence, taste and superlative craftsmanship are the common thread. It is an honor for Sotheby’s Royal and Noble Jewels to bring such bring such a rare collection to the market for the first time.”

Sotheby’s Royal & Noble Jewels sale will take place Nov. 13 at the Mandarin Oriental during Sotheby’s Luxury Week in Geneva.

Prior to the auction, “A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria,” along with a rare 18th-century diamond necklace also on offer, will be exhibited at Sotheby’s locations around the world, starting with New York on Oct. 9-10, followed by Singapore, Taipei, London, and Dubai. 

Lauren McLemoreis the associate editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments.

The Latest

Dana J. Lorberg
MajorsNov 04, 2024
Jewelers Mutual Appoints Mastercard Exec to Its Board

Dana J. Lorberg brings 35 years of experience in finance, technology, and strategy to the role.

FBI robbery surveillance photo
CrimeNov 04, 2024
FBI Offering $15K Reward for Info on Halloween Mask-Wearing Robbers

The suspects are said to have been involved in the armed robberies of four jewelry stores across three Midwest states.

Models wearing Black Sand Pebble ring and Surf bracelet
CollectionsNov 04, 2024
John Hardy’s New Jewels Turn the Black Sands of Bali into Diamonds

The new designs blend Creative Director Reed Krakoff’s aesthetic with the brand’s Balinese roots.

Jewelers Mutual Group Cybersecurity
Brought to you by
Navigating Cybersecurity: Essential Guidance for Jewelers

From protecting customer data to safeguarding inventory records, it's crucial to learn how to tackle cybersecurity challenges.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute watch
IndependentsNov 04, 2024
Eiseman Jewels is Celebrating Watches All Month-Long

The Dallas-based jeweler will showcase timepieces from Cartier, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Parmigiani Fleurier, and more.

Weekly QuizOct 31, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Artist Reena Ahluwalia “Pristine” painting
SourcingNov 01, 2024
Reena Ahluwalia Donates Diamond Painting to Benefit CJA

The artwork, titled “Pristine,” was raffled off at the Canadian Jewellers Association’s recent summit.

Gunderson’s Jewelers in Omaha, Nebraska
IndependentsNov 01, 2024
Gunderson’s Jewelers Opens New Location in Nebraska

The new store features a custom design studio and a bridal salon.

Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Enhance Your Expertise with IGI’s In-Person Courses in NYC

This fall, sharpen your skills in jewelry grading, quality control and diamond assessment.

Sydney Evan x Wicked “Spell Book” coin charm
CollectionsNov 01, 2024
Piece of the Week: Sydney Evan Gets ‘Wicked’

Designer Rosanne Karmes has created a collection to coincide with the release of the movie musical, which is expected to be a blockbuster.

Charles & Colvard moissanite ring
FinancialsOct 31, 2024
Charles & Colvard Faces Possible Nasdaq Delisting

The retailer said it will file the necessary paperwork to regain compliance as soon as it is able.

National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsOct 31, 2024
Peter Smith: Nervous Flyers and Emotional Selling

Whether you’re calming the jittery gentleman in seat 13B or selling a diamond ring to a hesitant customer, an empathetic approach is best.

Annie E. Doresca, Grant Mobley, Alexis Padis, Terry Chandler
Events & AwardsOct 31, 2024
WJA Will Celebrate 4 Award Winners at ‘Future of Forty’ Gala

The gala includes a red carpet, music from DJ Renata, an awards program, and “mystery boxes.”

Instore show 2025
Events & AwardsOct 31, 2024
The Instore Show Returns To Chicago Area

The trade show, in its third year, will take place in late September at the Donald E. Stephens Convention Center in Rosemont, Illinois.

Constance Polamalu
Lab-GrownOct 31, 2024
Q&A: Constance Polamalu on Selling Natural and Lab-Grown Diamonds

The jeweler shared her change of heart on lab-grown diamonds and why she keeps them separate from natural diamonds in her business ventures.

Gem Awards New York City
Events & AwardsOct 30, 2024
These Designers, Journalists, and Retailers Are Up for a Gem Award

The 2025 Gem Awards are scheduled to take place March 14 at Cipriani 42nd Street in New York City.

Peggy Grosz
MajorsOct 30, 2024
Peggy Grosz Leaves Assael After Company Is Sold

Grosz had served as Assael’s senior vice president and creative director since 2017.

CD Peacock Love and Celebration Rings
CollectionsOct 30, 2024
CD Peacock Honors Its Hometown of Chicago in First Bridal Collection

“Love and Celebration” is the jeweler’s first in-house collection featuring engagement rings, wedding bands, and celebration rings.

Hands pushing a shopping cart
SurveysOct 30, 2024
Consumer Confidence Rebounds in October

A more positive view of the labor market contributed to the strongest monthly gain since March 2021.

Mejuri store
Events & AwardsOct 30, 2024
Mejuri to Award $50K in Scholarships to Jewelry Design Students

The funds will be distributed to schools in the U.S., Canada, and the U.K.

Jewelers’ Security Alliance President Jennifer Mulvihill
MajorsOct 29, 2024
Cybersecurity Expert Selected as President of Jewelers’ Security Alliance

Jennifer Mulvihill, the first woman to lead JSA in the organization’s 141-year history, takes over for the retiring John Kennedy.

20241030_NYCJW.jpg
Events & AwardsOct 29, 2024
The Can’t-Miss Events of 2024 New York City Jewelry Week

This year’s festivities include more than 100 experiences, such as designer showcases, panel discussions, and even a treasure hunt.

Pandora ambassadors Chloe Bailey, Halle Bailey, and Pamela Anderson
MajorsOct 29, 2024
Pandora’s Holiday Campaign, New Jewelry Celebrate Light and Love

The ads star brand ambassadors Chloe and Halle Bailey and Pamela Anderson.

Stock image of a diamond engagement ring
SourcingOct 29, 2024
De Beers’ Production Drops 25% as Demand Remains Sluggish

The company combined two sights in Q3 due to the slowdown in demand, and said it is moving up the dates for sights 9 and 10 in Q4.

Monica Rich Kosann
EditorsOct 28, 2024
Q&A: Monica Rich Kosann Looks Back on 20 Years

The jewelry designer discussed how she got into the jewelry industry, what she keeps in her favorite locket, and the future of her brand.

Jewelers for Children Rock the Costume Showdown graphic
MajorsOct 28, 2024
Jewelers for Children’s Halloween Costume Contest Rocks

Participants can buy five votes for $5 to decide which jeweler will dress up as an ‘80s rockstar for Halloween.

Katy Briscoe carved indicolite Persian cat ring
TrendsOct 28, 2024
Amanda’s Spooky Style File

These 15 pieces of jewelry hand-picked ahead of Halloween appeal to the costume- and candy-loving child in all of us.

Executives at the Bulgari Ritz Carlton ribbon cutting ceremony
MajorsOct 25, 2024
This New Bulgari Boutique Is on a Yacht

Starboard Luxury is bringing the Italian brand aboard The Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection’s newest yacht.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy