Majors

Q&A: Watches of Switzerland CEO Brian Duffy Talks Jewelry Strategy

MajorsJun 26, 2024

Q&A: Watches of Switzerland CEO Brian Duffy Talks Jewelry Strategy

Duffy spoke candidly about the company’s plans to watch and learn, his love for the U.S. market, and what he learned from his mom.

Watches of Switzerland CEO Brian Duffy
In a Q&A with Associate Editor Lenore Fedow, Watches of Switzerland CEO Brian Duffy (pictured) discussed the retailer’s jewelry strategy, including its plans for Roberto Coin in the United States.
Las Vegas—Watches of Switzerland has big plans for its growing jewelry division.

Last month, the company acquired the U.S. arm of Italian jewelry brand Roberto Coin, officially known as Roberto Coin Inc., for $130 million.

The acquisition gives Watches of Switzerland exclusive distribution rights for Roberto Coin jewelry in the United States, Canada, the Caribbean, and Central America.

It’s the latest in a series of recent acquisitions by the retailer, including three Betteridge stores, aimed at bolstering its jewelry offerings.

During Las Vegas Market Week, Associate Editor Lenore Fedow sat down with Watches of Switzerland CEO Brian Duffy at the retailer’s boutique in the Wynn hotel to discuss its jewelry strategy.

This interview has been edited for length and clarity.

Lenore Fedow: National Jeweler recently covered the news about your acquisition of Roberto Coin’s U.S. business. Why did you all choose that brand in particular?

Brian Duffy: Because we love it. I think it’s a great brand driven by just amazing creativity in the product.

That’s not an observation, we were experiencing it. Roberto Coin had developed into being a really important partner for us.

So, we loved the brand, we loved the products, and then, progressively, we got to know the team under Peter [Webster].

(Webster has run Roberto Coin’s U.S. business for decades and will stay on as president of Roberto Coin Inc. post-acquisition.)

Eventually, when we started discussions, we met up with Roberto [Coin] who’s the most charismatic, creative [person] and a great personality, and the rest of his family.

There was a lot to discuss, obviously, because the business was previously part of the group overall. And here they were selling such a big market to a big corporation.

We like to think that we are still very much driven by personalities and engagement. We’re not about processes.

Anyway, that took time to get everybody comfortable with how everything would work, but it was all a good time.

For us, it’s been a great brand. It’s a big brand here [in the U.S.]

There are opportunities for us. First of all, [we want] to change nothing of what the business is today because it’s so well-run. They’ve got great partners around the country. I know all the department stores, and we know many of the independents as well.

So, the whole thing is about reassuring the existing distribution that we’re here to help grow that business.

And in addition, we think there are opportunities to elevate the presentation with monobrand [stores], whether it’s us or with our partners.

We love this market, by the way. There’s so much to learn in the U.S. market in particular, the best market in the world.

LF: What makes you say the U.S. market is the best market in the world?

BD: Factually, the size of the market. It’s the biggest diamond market in the world.

[The U.S.] has great style and great brands. How women accessorize here with jewelry is really interesting to me. It’s very thoughtful.

So, we’ve learned a lot, and it’s a tough market. You’ve got such big, successful players here, like Cartier.

LF: Right. There’s a lot of competition.

BD: Within that top market, Roberto Coin has been so successful.

LF: Yes, Roberto Coin is a huge name here, which leads me to my next question. What are your plans for that brand in the U.S. in particular?

BD: We don’t actually come in with a blueprint. You hear all this stuff about 100-day plans. It’s not the way we do things. 

The next day, the next 100 days, we’ll be listening and learning. I always quote my mum who said, “Nobody ever learned anything while they were talking.” It’s good advice.

Peter, Roberto, and the team spent a lot of time here [in the U.S.] developing. So, we’re learning from all of that. 

There are things we know that we can bring, like store design. We will be investing more in marketing and the digital world. 

The focus would be online with the partners, but we can offer [the brand] more in the way of digital support and areas of social media and public relations. I think we have good complementary skills there.

But the first thing is to support the momentum that the business has today with everybody that’s there. There are no plans to synergize or change or anything of that nature whatsoever. 

[We want to] learn what we can and see where we can bring complementary skills and opportunities. 

We’re ambitious, we’re big, so we’ve got resources. It’s got to be up to Peter and his team to take advantage of what we can bring, rather than us coming along and saying, “Here’s what we should be doing.”

“We want to be bigger in jewelry.” 

LF: They’re successful here as it is. They have beautiful things and a very talented group.

BD: Yeah, and I love the trends.

Clearly, there’s a very distinct trend that’s been going on now for many, many years toward brands. And that’s great for Roberto Coin. 

The trend towards daywear accessorizing, I think, is really clear. It’s not all sparkly evening wear and diamonds. So, I think that’s great. 

It’s so prolific on product development and just so good.

 Related stories will be right here … 

LF:  Speaking of brands, there was also some news recently about Watches of Switzerland bringing David Yurman to the U.K. How did that partnership come about?

BD:  Again, we saw what an amazing success it is here in the U.S., very much an American success story.

It just does fabulous product that responds, again, to the best market challenges in the world, … most discerning consumers in the world when it comes to jewelry. 

We saw it, loved it, and were like, “My God, it’s not in the U.K.?”

We want to be bigger in jewelry. We’ve decided that the percentage of jewelry within our business went down because we were so successful in watches, not that we didn’t love our jewelry brands. 

We have great jewelry retail groups, like in the U.K. [we have] Mappin & Webb and Goldsmiths, and now here, Mayors and Betteridge.

We’ve learned a lot from that as well, about high-end clientele and high-end products.

We already had a number of initiatives underway to expand our presence in branded jewelry.

We opened a store in the U.K. [in Manchester] that’s only branded jewelry, not jewelry and watches. And we brought other brands on board with that, like Pomellato and Repossi. 

David Yurman will be an important part of that in Manchester. We’re, first of all, launching David Yurman in London.

And again, just wonderful product and great potential.

So, we like to think we’ll learn from others and definitely learn from the U.S. market.

“We like big [stores]. We give the opportunity for brands to really express themselves.”

LF: When you talk about expanding your presence in the jewelry market, how are you going to do that going forward? Do you think there will be more acquisitions? What works for you all?

BD: There will be a number of fronts to it as we’ve developed.

We love investing in stores and it’s what we’re all about, investing for high-quality growth.

We know stores should be big, first of all, foremost. And I think it’s one of the feelings of, if you like the more traditional retail, it’s just physically, the space is small, so therefore people can’t browse.

LF: Smaller stores can be a little more intimidating.

BD: We like big. We give the opportunity for brands to really express themselves.

In any of our stores, when you go, you wouldn’t think you’re not seeing the best of whatever brand we have. We don’t compromise that.

When we came to Mayors, we had proof they were underdeveloped in watches.

As we were increasing space, we gave more space to watches, probably slightly overdid it.

And we recognize now just the great value of jewelry. We are increasing the space that we’re allocating towards jewelry.

We do really good marketing behind jewelry. We have great events and teams.

There’s the VIP element here of accessing special product for clients and even bespoke product. I think it’s a great opportunity.

But you then have got to have the right kind of people and you’ve got to give them the right kind of support opportunities. And I think with scale that we’re able to do that. A big thing is the people fundamentally.

LF: Is there anything else of interest you all have going on that I didn’t ask you about?

BD: No, this is the big deal for us. It’s a huge move in our strategy of getting much more represented in jewelry.

We feel great about it. As for the feedback, we’re meeting a lot of the trade here [at the Las Vegas shows] and, of course, people are going to have some questions.

We just have to prove, as quickly as we can, that everything that’s there is going to remain exactly as it is.

The only things we will bring, I think, will be to everybody’s advantage, like marketing, digital, and so on. That’s our preoccupation right now, to get that right.

We have other things that are going on around the world. We have a very clear strategy for growth for our business.

Our business in America now is the best part of $900 million, and we’ve only been here just over five years. I never predicted that. And half of it’s been what we acquired and the other half has been what we’ve grown.

We love America and we got our timing right, but we still made some big, brave statements, in acquisitions or the stores we opened in New York.

So, we’re going to keep doing what we’re doing as long as it keeps working as well as it is.

What have you taken away from Couture? What’s impressed you from what you’ve seen?

LF: Yeah, it’s been a little bit of a whirlwind. I’m seeing a lot of color, which I think is fun. I’m seeing a move to more bright and airy pieces.

I’m also seeing a lot of convertible pieces, like a necklace that will turn into a bracelet or big earrings that I can take the jacket off and it’s a stud.

BD: Well, honestly, American women drive a lot of global trends, whether it’s in fashion, which I was in before, now, jewelry and accessories. There’s this wonderful blend between practicality and style.

LF: It’s a great show to people watch. I always like seeing what jewelry people are wearing. The people who know jewelry best, what do they have on?

BD:  There’s a lot of choice, mix and match, but the trend is towards daywear, more casual dressing but still very stylish. You want to accessorize it still, so that’s a great trend.

There’s also the trend toward self-purchasing and collection building. Those are all great trends for Roberto Coin.

The Latest

Daymond John
Events & AwardsApr 18, 2025
Daymond John to Give Keynote at JCK Las Vegas

The entrepreneur and “Shark Tank” star will share his top tips for success.

Dukachi Easter Bread Pendant
CollectionsApr 18, 2025
Piece of the Week: Dukachi’s ‘Easter Bread’ Pendant

The Ukrainian brand’s new pendant is modeled after a traditional paska, a pastry often baked for Easter in Eastern European cultures.

Bremer Jewelry
IndependentsApr 18, 2025
Bremer Jewelry to Reveal Renovated Store

The jeweler has announced a grand reopening for its recently remodeled location in Peoria, Illinois.

gia-topimage 0325.jpg
Brought to you by
A Brilliant Future Is Here

Get online education from GIA experts.

Athena Calderone x John Hardy Collection
CollectionsApr 17, 2025
John Hardy, Athena Calderone Partner on Art Deco Decor-Inspired Collection

Interior designer Athena Calderone looked to decor from the 1920s and 1930s when crafting her first fine jewelry collection.

Weekly QuizApr 18, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Movado Connect 2.0 watches
FinancialsApr 17, 2025
Movado Group to Increase Prices to Offset Tariffs Impact

During a call about its full-year results, CEO Efraim Grinberg discussed how the company is approaching the uncertainty surrounding tariffs.

Natural Diamond Council Diamond Learning Center Graphic
Lab-GrownApr 17, 2025
NDC Launches Its Diamond Learning Center

The free program provides educational content for jewelry salespeople and enthusiasts to learn or refresh their diamond knowledge.

bench jeweler 1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
The Heart of the Industry: Giving Bench Jewelers the Recognition They Deserve

Bench jewelers spend years honing their skills, Jewelers of America’s Certification validates their talents.

Jewelers of America logo
Policies & IssuesApr 17, 2025
Jewelers of America Requests Tariffs Testimonials from Members

The feedback will be used to prepare other jewelers for the challenges ahead, the organization said.

Technology Therapy Group logo
TechnologyApr 17, 2025
Technology Therapy Group Expands AI Training for Jewelry Retailers

The online sessions are designed to teach jewelers to use AI tools like ChatGPT and Claude to grow their business.

Catbird Chicago
IndependentsApr 16, 2025
Catbird Expands to Chicago

The opening marks the jewelry retailer’s first location in the Midwest.

Foundrae United in Love Campaign
CollectionsApr 16, 2025
Foundrae’s First Commitment Jewelry Collection Unites Through Love

The “United in Love” collection offers tangible mementos of hearts entwined with traditional and non-traditional commitment heirlooms.

Robert and Rose-Marie Goodman outside Robert Goodman Jewelers
IndependentsApr 16, 2025
Indiana Jeweler to Host Black Jewelry Designer Pop-Up

Robert Goodman Jewelers will hold a “Black Jewelry Designers and Makers” event on April 27.

Stock image of shipping containers
EditorsApr 15, 2025
Tariffs: What We Know Right Now

Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff answers questions about how the new taxes levied on countries like India and China will impact the industry.

Botswana Minster of Minerals and Energy Bogolo Joy Kenewendo
EditorsApr 15, 2025
Q&A: Bogolo Joy Kenewendo on Making Deals, Marketing Diamonds

Kenewendo, Botswana’s minster of minerals and energy, discusses closing the deal with De Beers and the work that was missed along the way.

The Golconda Blue
AuctionsApr 15, 2025
23-Carat ‘Golconda Blue’ Heads to Auction

The historic fancy vivid blue diamond set to headline Christie’s Geneva sale next month could sell for up to $50 million.

Bulgari Eden the Garden of Wonders ad
FinancialsApr 15, 2025
LVMH’s Q1 Sales Slip 2 Percent

LVMH CFO Cécile Cabanis also discussed the effects of tariffs so far.

Screenshot from new Jon Hamm series on Apple TV+, Your Friends and Neighbors
CrimeApr 15, 2025
Jon Hamm Plays a Jewel Thief on Apple TV+

The “Mad Men” and “The Morning Show” star steals jewelry, art, and handbags from his wealthy neighbors in “Your Friends & Neighbors.”

Kalpesh Jhaveri
SourcingApr 15, 2025
Diamond Club West Coast Names 2025 Board

The organization has reelected Kalpesh Jhaveri as president.

Two Movado Connect 2.0 watches
FinancialsApr 14, 2025
Movado to Restate Years of Financials Due to ‘Misconduct’ in Dubai

An investigation found that the former managing director of Movado’s Dubai branch overstated and prematurely recorded sales.

Sauer Balance Earrings in Ma Campaign
CollectionsApr 14, 2025
Sauer Embraces Emptiness Through ‘Ma’ Collection

The collection pays tribute to the Japanese philosophy of Ma, studying balance, stillness, and the interplay between presence and absence.

Mari Lous Fine Jewelry
IndependentsApr 14, 2025
Illinois Jeweler Closing After 45 Years

Mari Lou’s Fine Jewelry in Orland Park, a suburb of Chicago, is closing its doors.

GIA logo
GradingApr 14, 2025
GIA Expands Overseas Services as Tariffs Kick In

GIA’s labs in Dubai and Hong Kong are now accepting larger diamonds in light of the “logistical challenges” presented by the new tariffs.

Van Cleef & Arpels Pearl and Diamond Earrings Similar to Princess Grace’s Wedding Earrings
AuctionsApr 11, 2025
Piece of the Week: A Replica of Princess Grace’s Wedding Earrings

These earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels, featuring the same design as a pair worn by Princess Grace, are up for auction at Woolley & Wallis.

My Next Question webinar graphic
Recorded WebinarsApr 11, 2025
Watch: Top Tips for Saving Time With AI

Two experts share how artificial intelligence tools can help retailers run a more efficient business.

Kentaro Nishimura
SourcingApr 11, 2025
Mikimoto Names New President, CEO for U.S. Division

Kentaro Nishimura, who has been with the pearl company since 1997, has been promoted to president and CEO of Mikimoto America.

America Telling Time: 150 Years of Bulova
WatchesApr 11, 2025
Bulova Documentary Now on Amazon Prime

“America Telling Time: 150 Years of Bulova” explores the storied history of the American watchmaker.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy