Auctions

Sotheby’s to Auction 200+ Signed Jewels

AuctionsMar 05, 2024

Sotheby’s to Auction 200+ Signed Jewels

The upcoming sale features iconic styles from Bulgari, Cartier, David Webb, JAR, and Van Cleef & Arpels.

Van Cleef & Arpels Zip necklace
This Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace is set to hit the auction block at Sotheby’s upcoming “From the Vault: Exceptional Signed Jewels” sale on March 7.
New York—Sotheby’s is hosting a single-owner sale of more than 220 signed jewels, including some of the most iconic 20th and 21st century jewelry styles and motifs.

The “From the Vault: Exceptional Signed Jewels” sale includes Cartier “Panthère” jewels, Bulgari “Serpenti” pieces and a Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace, as well as “Mystery Set” jewels.

It is scheduled to take place Thursday at Sotheby’s New York beginning at 10 a.m.

Asprey yellow diamond necklace
This Asprey yellow diamond necklace has the highest pre-sale estimate of the auction, $2 million to $3 million.


The lot with the highest pre-sale estimate, according to Sotheby’s website, is an 18-karat white gold Asprey necklace and earrings set, composed of 50 graduated fancy vivid yellow round diamonds and one fancy intense yellow round diamond (a total of 55.26 carats) connected by links with pavé set round diamonds.

The set has a pre-sale estimate of $2 million to $3 million.

Harry Winston diamond necklace
The design of this Harry Winston diamond necklace was inspired by a Christmas wreath, said Sotheby’s.


A Harry Winston platinum and diamond necklace will also hit the auction block, set with 150 carats of alternating pear- and marquise-shaped diamonds.

“Inspired by a Christmas wreath, the stones were carefully selected and mounted to mimic the intertwining leaves in wreaths and garland,” said Sotheby’s.

The necklace has a pre-sale estimate of $800,000 to $1.2 million.

A Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace and a pair of earclips from around the 1950s, seen at the top of the story, are also up for sale. Crafted in 18-karat gold and platinum, the jewels are set with round and single-cut diamonds.

The necklace can also be converted into a bracelet.

“Celebrated not only for its playful originality, but also for the technical advancements achieved to create it, the ‘Zip’ is a testament to the ingenuity of Van Cleef & Arpels,” said Sotheby’s.

The set has a pre-sale estimate of $400,000 to $600,000.

Van Cleef & Arpels mystery set ruby brooch
This Van Cleef & Arpels ruby and diamond flower brooch features its patented “mystery set” setting.


Also from Van & Cleef & Arpels is a “mystery-set” ruby and diamond clip-brooch, crafted using its “intricate and innovative setting style,” said Sotheby’s, which was patented in 1933.

The brooch has a pre-sale estimate of $200,000 to $300,000.

 Related stories will be right here … 

One of Bulgari’s most iconic designs, the “Serpenti” necklace will also be up for sale.

Bulgari Serpenti diamond necklace
This Bulgari “Serpenti” necklace, set with 141 carats of diamonds, has a pre-sale estimate of $300,000 to $500,000.


The snake-inspired necklace has graduated articulated segments set with 141 carats of round diamonds and pear-shaped diamond eyes.

“This specific necklace is particularly magnificent due to its size and ideal width as it can be doubled around the neck for wear at adjustable lengths,” said Sotheby’s.

The necklace has a pre-sale estimate of $300,000 to $500,000.

JAR spinel and diamond earclips
These JAR earclips are set with octagonal-shaped spinels and diamonds.


A pair of earclips by JAR will be up for sale. The 18-karat gold and silver earrings are set with octagonal-shaped spinels and framed by single-cut diamonds, surrounded by pavé-set brown-hued diamonds.

“These earclips perfectly show off a beautiful use of form, as well as inventiveness with precious stones,” said Sotheby’s.

The earclips have a pre-sale estimate of $250,000 to $350,000.

Cartier Panthère cuff bracelet
The Cartier Panthère cuff bracelet is an “iconic style [that] remains a holy grail for collectors and continues to be a staple at auction,” said Sotheby’s.


An example of a Cartier classic, the Panthère cuff bracelet, will be up for sale. Round diamonds are pavé-set throughout the 18-karat white gold bracelet, while the panther’s head has marquise-shaped emerald eyes and an onyx nose.

“Over a century after its inception, the iconic style remains a holy grail for collectors and continues to be a staple at auction,” said Sotheby’s.

The bracelet has a pre-sale estimate of $100,000 to $150,000.

One of the most expensive Cartier Panthère bracelets sold for over $500,000 in 2022 at Sotheby's, the auction house noted, adding that K-pop star V, also known as Kim Tae-hyung, a member of boy band BTS, recently sold out the necklace on his first day of being Cartier’s new brand ambassador and the face of its Panthère de Cartier campaign.

Cartier ladybug brooches set
These carved ladybug brooches by Cartier have a pre-sale estimate of $30,000 to $50,000.


Also from Cartier is a set of three carved ladybug dress clips, two made of coral and one of turquoise dotted with bezel-set round diamond spots and black enamel accents. The pre-sale estimate is $30,000 to $50,000.

While Cartier’s ladybugs are a classic design, said Sotheby’s, it’s “extremely rare” to present a group of three and the use of hardstone is “especially unique in this case.”

Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. necklace
This Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. necklace features the designer’s signature cross-stitch motif, said Sotheby’s.


A piece by Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. is up for sale. This gold, platinum, and diamond necklace features the designer’s signature cross-stitch motif and is “a bold interpretation of texture,” said the auction house.

The pre-sale estimate is $35,000 to $55,000.

David Webb Twin Frog bracelet
This “Twin Frog” bracelet by David Webb features two frogs set with rubies and diamonds.


A “Twin Frog” bracelet by David Webb is also up for auction. The 18-karat gold and platinum bracelet features two green enamel frogs set with ruby cabochons and accented by round diamonds.

The bracelet has a pre-sale estimate of $35,000 to $55,000.

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