Auctions

Sotheby’s to Auction 200+ Signed Jewels

AuctionsMar 05, 2024

Sotheby’s to Auction 200+ Signed Jewels

The upcoming sale features iconic styles from Bulgari, Cartier, David Webb, JAR, and Van Cleef & Arpels.

Van Cleef & Arpels Zip necklace
This Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace is set to hit the auction block at Sotheby’s upcoming “From the Vault: Exceptional Signed Jewels” sale on March 7.
New York—Sotheby’s is hosting a single-owner sale of more than 220 signed jewels, including some of the most iconic 20th and 21st century jewelry styles and motifs.

The “From the Vault: Exceptional Signed Jewels” sale includes Cartier “Panthère” jewels, Bulgari “Serpenti” pieces and a Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace, as well as “Mystery Set” jewels.

It is scheduled to take place Thursday at Sotheby’s New York beginning at 10 a.m.

Asprey yellow diamond necklace
This Asprey yellow diamond necklace has the highest pre-sale estimate of the auction, $2 million to $3 million.


The lot with the highest pre-sale estimate, according to Sotheby’s website, is an 18-karat white gold Asprey necklace and earrings set, composed of 50 graduated fancy vivid yellow round diamonds and one fancy intense yellow round diamond (a total of 55.26 carats) connected by links with pavé set round diamonds.

The set has a pre-sale estimate of $2 million to $3 million.

Harry Winston diamond necklace
The design of this Harry Winston diamond necklace was inspired by a Christmas wreath, said Sotheby’s.


A Harry Winston platinum and diamond necklace will also hit the auction block, set with 150 carats of alternating pear- and marquise-shaped diamonds.

“Inspired by a Christmas wreath, the stones were carefully selected and mounted to mimic the intertwining leaves in wreaths and garland,” said Sotheby’s.

The necklace has a pre-sale estimate of $800,000 to $1.2 million.

A Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace and a pair of earclips from around the 1950s, seen at the top of the story, are also up for sale. Crafted in 18-karat gold and platinum, the jewels are set with round and single-cut diamonds.

The necklace can also be converted into a bracelet.

“Celebrated not only for its playful originality, but also for the technical advancements achieved to create it, the ‘Zip’ is a testament to the ingenuity of Van Cleef & Arpels,” said Sotheby’s.

The set has a pre-sale estimate of $400,000 to $600,000.

Van Cleef & Arpels mystery set ruby brooch
This Van Cleef & Arpels ruby and diamond flower brooch features its patented “mystery set” setting.


Also from Van & Cleef & Arpels is a “mystery-set” ruby and diamond clip-brooch, crafted using its “intricate and innovative setting style,” said Sotheby’s, which was patented in 1933.

The brooch has a pre-sale estimate of $200,000 to $300,000.

 Related stories will be right here … 

One of Bulgari’s most iconic designs, the “Serpenti” necklace will also be up for sale.

Bulgari Serpenti diamond necklace
This Bulgari “Serpenti” necklace, set with 141 carats of diamonds, has a pre-sale estimate of $300,000 to $500,000.


The snake-inspired necklace has graduated articulated segments set with 141 carats of round diamonds and pear-shaped diamond eyes.

“This specific necklace is particularly magnificent due to its size and ideal width as it can be doubled around the neck for wear at adjustable lengths,” said Sotheby’s.

The necklace has a pre-sale estimate of $300,000 to $500,000.

JAR spinel and diamond earclips
These JAR earclips are set with octagonal-shaped spinels and diamonds.


A pair of earclips by JAR will be up for sale. The 18-karat gold and silver earrings are set with octagonal-shaped spinels and framed by single-cut diamonds, surrounded by pavé-set brown-hued diamonds.

“These earclips perfectly show off a beautiful use of form, as well as inventiveness with precious stones,” said Sotheby’s.

The earclips have a pre-sale estimate of $250,000 to $350,000.

Cartier Panthère cuff bracelet
The Cartier Panthère cuff bracelet is an “iconic style [that] remains a holy grail for collectors and continues to be a staple at auction,” said Sotheby’s.


An example of a Cartier classic, the Panthère cuff bracelet, will be up for sale. Round diamonds are pavé-set throughout the 18-karat white gold bracelet, while the panther’s head has marquise-shaped emerald eyes and an onyx nose.

“Over a century after its inception, the iconic style remains a holy grail for collectors and continues to be a staple at auction,” said Sotheby’s.

The bracelet has a pre-sale estimate of $100,000 to $150,000.

One of the most expensive Cartier Panthère bracelets sold for over $500,000 in 2022 at Sotheby's, the auction house noted, adding that K-pop star V, also known as Kim Tae-hyung, a member of boy band BTS, recently sold out the necklace on his first day of being Cartier’s new brand ambassador and the face of its Panthère de Cartier campaign.

Cartier ladybug brooches set
These carved ladybug brooches by Cartier have a pre-sale estimate of $30,000 to $50,000.


Also from Cartier is a set of three carved ladybug dress clips, two made of coral and one of turquoise dotted with bezel-set round diamond spots and black enamel accents. The pre-sale estimate is $30,000 to $50,000.

While Cartier’s ladybugs are a classic design, said Sotheby’s, it’s “extremely rare” to present a group of three and the use of hardstone is “especially unique in this case.”

Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. necklace
This Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. necklace features the designer’s signature cross-stitch motif, said Sotheby’s.


A piece by Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. is up for sale. This gold, platinum, and diamond necklace features the designer’s signature cross-stitch motif and is “a bold interpretation of texture,” said the auction house.

The pre-sale estimate is $35,000 to $55,000.

David Webb Twin Frog bracelet
This “Twin Frog” bracelet by David Webb features two frogs set with rubies and diamonds.


A “Twin Frog” bracelet by David Webb is also up for auction. The 18-karat gold and platinum bracelet features two green enamel frogs set with ruby cabochons and accented by round diamonds.

The bracelet has a pre-sale estimate of $35,000 to $55,000.

The Latest

Gemfields Faberge
SourcingAug 12, 2025
Gemfields Sells Fabergé for $50M

Acquired by a tech investor, the historic brand will continue to focus on jewelry, accessories, and timepieces.

Shipping containers on a ship
Policies & IssuesAug 12, 2025
Higher Tariff on Chinese Imports Paused for 90 Days, Trump Says

President Donald Trump issued an executive order extending the pause on higher tariffs to November as negotiations with China continue.

Jacquie Aiche Thunderbird Slab Collection Campaign
CollectionsAug 12, 2025
Jacquie Aiche’s New Collection Harnesses the Energy of the Thunderbird

The “Thunderbird Slab” collection features a thunderbird motif as a symbol of power, protection, and boundless possibility.

rio-article photo-diamond.jpg
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine Jewelry

As a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.

Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams
ColumnistsAug 12, 2025
Creative Connecting: How to Take a Better Headshot

Columnists Jen Cullen Williams and Duvall O’Steen share tips on how to elevate your professional image.

Weekly QuizAug 08, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Vigil for slain Wheat Ridge, Colorado jeweler Peter Damian Arguello
CrimeAug 11, 2025
Man Convicted of First-Degree Murder in Death of Colorado Jeweler

Peter Damian Arguello, a jeweler in the Denver suburb of Wheat Ridge, was found dead inside his store in November 2023.

Lisa Bridge
IndependentsAug 11, 2025
Lisa Bridge to Depart Ben Bridge Jeweler

The retailer, owned by Berkshire Hathaway, is becoming part of the Berkshire Hathaway Jewelry Group with Helzberg.

an instructor and a student in a bench jewelry classroom
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

Bethenny Frankel
Events & AwardsAug 11, 2025
Bethenny Frankel to Give Keynote at CBG’s Experience Show

The Continental Buying Group’s 2025 Tampa Experience Show is slated for Sept. 8-10.

Nora Kühner fashion design consulting trend forecast colors 2027
EditorsAug 11, 2025
The Colors Expected to Be On-Trend in a Couple Years

Associate Editor Lauren McLemore recently attended a fabrics trade show where a trend forecaster shared her predictions for summer 2027.

Brilliant Earth Jolie Mosaics engagement ring
FinancialsAug 08, 2025
Brilliant Earth’s Q2 Sales Up 3% as Engagement Ring Sales Rise

The company raised its full-year sales guidance while noting it has not yet assessed the potential impact of the latest tariff news.

Jewellers for Hope charity event
Events & AwardsAug 08, 2025
GJEPC’s Jewellers for Hope Celebrates 10 Years of Fundraising

The organization has raised more than $1.3 million for charity since its inception.

Rahaminov Diamonds Emerald-Cut Diamond Bezel Bangle
TrendsAug 08, 2025
Piece of the Week: Rahaminov Diamonds’ Bezel Bangle

The brand’s latest iteration of a bezel-set diamond bangle features clean lines and a timeless design for a new modern silhouette.

Black and white photo of Tony Bennett near a microphone
WatchesAug 07, 2025
Bulova’s New Collection Honors Tony Bennett

The first watch in the series commemorates his participation in the Civil Rights movement, marching from Selma to Montgomery in 1965.

Sapphire page in Chatham’s “Ultimate Lab-Grown Catalog”
Lab-GrownAug 07, 2025
Chatham Releases Catalog for Loose Lab-Grown Gemstones

The catalog contains a complete listing of all the loose gemstones in stock, as well as information about the properties of each stone.

Rembrandt Blue Jay, Hummingbird, Cardinal Bird Charms
TechnologyAug 07, 2025
Rembrandt Charms Debuts New Website, Bird Charms

The company added a retailer dashboard to its site and three new birds to its charm collection, the cardinal, blue jay, and hummingbird.

Shipping containers on a ship
Policies & IssuesAug 06, 2025
Tariff on India to Rise to 50%, Trump Says

An additional 25 percent tariff has been added to the previously announced 25 percent.

Claire’s storefront
MajorsAug 06, 2025
Claire’s Files for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy Again

The jewelry and accessories retailer plans to close 18 stores as part of the proceedings.

Smith & Son Jewelers storefront Springfield Massachusetts
IndependentsAug 06, 2025
Smith & Son Jewelers to Close 107-Year-Old Location

Its Springfield, Massachusetts, store is set to close as owner Andrew Smith heads into retirement.

Zahn-Z Beluga Spout Grey Spinel Ring and Beluga Spout Mandarin Garnet Ring
CollectionsAug 06, 2025
Zahn-Z Swims With Whales in ‘Beluga’ Collection

Designer Hiba Husayni looked to the whale’s melon shaped-head, blowhole, and fluke for her new chunky gold offerings.

Paola De Luca presenting Trendbook 2026+ at Vicenzaoro
TrendsAug 06, 2025
Paola De Luca to Release Trendbook 2027+

She will present the 23rd edition of the trend forecasting book at Vicenzaoro on Sept. 7.

Omar Roy mugshot
CrimeAug 05, 2025
Report: Suspect Arrested in 1992 Murder of Miami Jeweler

Omar Roy, 72, was arrested in connection with the murder of jeweler Dionisio Carlos Valladares.

Mignon Faget Beyond Katrina Pendant and Beyond Katrina Pin
CollectionsAug 05, 2025
Mignon Faget Commemorates 20th Anniversary of Hurricane Katrina

The New Orleans-based brand’s “Beyond Katrina” jewels honor the communities affected by the storm.

National Jeweler columnist Lilian Raji
ColumnistsAug 05, 2025
The PR Adviser: Affiliate Marketing Is the Cost of Coverage

Lilian Raji explains why joining an affiliate network is essential for brands seeking placements in U.S. consumer publications.

Jewelers of America Logo
Events & AwardsAug 05, 2025
JA Announces Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship Winners

The organization has awarded a total of $42,000 through its scholarship programs this year.

2026 Gem Awards logo
Events & AwardsAug 04, 2025
Gem Awards, David Yurman Introduce $50K Grant for Emerging Designers

The winner of the inaugural David Yurman Gem Awards Grant will be announced live at the 2026 Gem Awards gala.

Marlo Laz peridot and diamond Alexandra earrings
TrendsAug 04, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: August’s Bright Baubles

As summer winds down, celebrate the sunny disposition of the month’s birthstones: peridot and spinel.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy