Auctions

Sotheby’s to Auction 200+ Signed Jewels

AuctionsMar 05, 2024

Sotheby’s to Auction 200+ Signed Jewels

The upcoming sale features iconic styles from Bulgari, Cartier, David Webb, JAR, and Van Cleef & Arpels.

Van Cleef & Arpels Zip necklace
This Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace is set to hit the auction block at Sotheby’s upcoming “From the Vault: Exceptional Signed Jewels” sale on March 7.
New York—Sotheby’s is hosting a single-owner sale of more than 220 signed jewels, including some of the most iconic 20th and 21st century jewelry styles and motifs.

The “From the Vault: Exceptional Signed Jewels” sale includes Cartier “Panthère” jewels, Bulgari “Serpenti” pieces and a Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace, as well as “Mystery Set” jewels.

It is scheduled to take place Thursday at Sotheby’s New York beginning at 10 a.m.

Asprey yellow diamond necklace
This Asprey yellow diamond necklace has the highest pre-sale estimate of the auction, $2 million to $3 million.


The lot with the highest pre-sale estimate, according to Sotheby’s website, is an 18-karat white gold Asprey necklace and earrings set, composed of 50 graduated fancy vivid yellow round diamonds and one fancy intense yellow round diamond (a total of 55.26 carats) connected by links with pavé set round diamonds.

The set has a pre-sale estimate of $2 million to $3 million.

Harry Winston diamond necklace
The design of this Harry Winston diamond necklace was inspired by a Christmas wreath, said Sotheby’s.


A Harry Winston platinum and diamond necklace will also hit the auction block, set with 150 carats of alternating pear- and marquise-shaped diamonds.

“Inspired by a Christmas wreath, the stones were carefully selected and mounted to mimic the intertwining leaves in wreaths and garland,” said Sotheby’s.

The necklace has a pre-sale estimate of $800,000 to $1.2 million.

A Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace and a pair of earclips from around the 1950s, seen at the top of the story, are also up for sale. Crafted in 18-karat gold and platinum, the jewels are set with round and single-cut diamonds.

The necklace can also be converted into a bracelet.

“Celebrated not only for its playful originality, but also for the technical advancements achieved to create it, the ‘Zip’ is a testament to the ingenuity of Van Cleef & Arpels,” said Sotheby’s.

The set has a pre-sale estimate of $400,000 to $600,000.

Van Cleef & Arpels mystery set ruby brooch
This Van Cleef & Arpels ruby and diamond flower brooch features its patented “mystery set” setting.


Also from Van & Cleef & Arpels is a “mystery-set” ruby and diamond clip-brooch, crafted using its “intricate and innovative setting style,” said Sotheby’s, which was patented in 1933.

The brooch has a pre-sale estimate of $200,000 to $300,000.

 Related stories will be right here … 

One of Bulgari’s most iconic designs, the “Serpenti” necklace will also be up for sale.

Bulgari Serpenti diamond necklace
This Bulgari “Serpenti” necklace, set with 141 carats of diamonds, has a pre-sale estimate of $300,000 to $500,000.


The snake-inspired necklace has graduated articulated segments set with 141 carats of round diamonds and pear-shaped diamond eyes.

“This specific necklace is particularly magnificent due to its size and ideal width as it can be doubled around the neck for wear at adjustable lengths,” said Sotheby’s.

The necklace has a pre-sale estimate of $300,000 to $500,000.

JAR spinel and diamond earclips
These JAR earclips are set with octagonal-shaped spinels and diamonds.


A pair of earclips by JAR will be up for sale. The 18-karat gold and silver earrings are set with octagonal-shaped spinels and framed by single-cut diamonds, surrounded by pavé-set brown-hued diamonds.

“These earclips perfectly show off a beautiful use of form, as well as inventiveness with precious stones,” said Sotheby’s.

The earclips have a pre-sale estimate of $250,000 to $350,000.

Cartier Panthère cuff bracelet
The Cartier Panthère cuff bracelet is an “iconic style [that] remains a holy grail for collectors and continues to be a staple at auction,” said Sotheby’s.


An example of a Cartier classic, the Panthère cuff bracelet, will be up for sale. Round diamonds are pavé-set throughout the 18-karat white gold bracelet, while the panther’s head has marquise-shaped emerald eyes and an onyx nose.

“Over a century after its inception, the iconic style remains a holy grail for collectors and continues to be a staple at auction,” said Sotheby’s.

The bracelet has a pre-sale estimate of $100,000 to $150,000.

One of the most expensive Cartier Panthère bracelets sold for over $500,000 in 2022 at Sotheby's, the auction house noted, adding that K-pop star V, also known as Kim Tae-hyung, a member of boy band BTS, recently sold out the necklace on his first day of being Cartier’s new brand ambassador and the face of its Panthère de Cartier campaign.

Cartier ladybug brooches set
These carved ladybug brooches by Cartier have a pre-sale estimate of $30,000 to $50,000.


Also from Cartier is a set of three carved ladybug dress clips, two made of coral and one of turquoise dotted with bezel-set round diamond spots and black enamel accents. The pre-sale estimate is $30,000 to $50,000.

While Cartier’s ladybugs are a classic design, said Sotheby’s, it’s “extremely rare” to present a group of three and the use of hardstone is “especially unique in this case.”

Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. necklace
This Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. necklace features the designer’s signature cross-stitch motif, said Sotheby’s.


A piece by Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. is up for sale. This gold, platinum, and diamond necklace features the designer’s signature cross-stitch motif and is “a bold interpretation of texture,” said the auction house.

The pre-sale estimate is $35,000 to $55,000.

David Webb Twin Frog bracelet
This “Twin Frog” bracelet by David Webb features two frogs set with rubies and diamonds.


A “Twin Frog” bracelet by David Webb is also up for auction. The 18-karat gold and platinum bracelet features two green enamel frogs set with ruby cabochons and accented by round diamonds.

The bracelet has a pre-sale estimate of $35,000 to $55,000.

The Latest

Cece Jewellery Traveller’s Tale Ring
TrendsFeb 17, 2026
A Bit of Jewelry for the Year of the Horse

Western wear continues to trend in the Year of the Fire Horse and along with it, horse and horseshoe motifs in jewelry.

Anza gems
SourcingFeb 17, 2026
Colored Gemstone Experts Talk Tariffs, Trends in Tucson

Although the market is robust, tariffs and precious metal prices are impacting the industry, Stuart Robertson and Brecken Branstrator said.

Dr. George Rossman
GradingFeb 17, 2026
Dr. George Rossman, Former GIA Governor, Dies at 81

Rossman, who advised GIA for more than 50 years, is remembered for his passion and dedication to the field of gemology.

MJSA Apprenticeship Guide
Brought to you by
The MJSA Mentor & Apprenticeship Program: Attracting & Training the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

Launched in 2023, the program will help the passing of knowledge between generations and alleviate the shortage of bench jewelers.

Nest doorbell camera footage of suspect in Nancy Guthrie abduction
CrimeFeb 13, 2026
JSA Offering $10K Reward in Nancy Guthrie Case

Guthrie, the mother of “Today” show host Savannah Guthrie, was abducted just as the Tucson gem shows were starting.

Weekly QuizFeb 12, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Butterfield Jewelers going out of business sale ad
IndependentsFeb 13, 2026
97-Year-Old New Mexico Jewelry Store To Close

Butterfield Jewelers in Albuquerque, New Mexico, is preparing to close as members of the Butterfield family head into retirement.

Paul Morelli Rosebud Necklace
CollectionsFeb 13, 2026
A ‘Rosebud’ Necklace for Valentine’s Day

Paul Morelli’s “Rosebud” necklace, our Piece of the Week, uses 18-karat rose, green, and white gold to turn the symbol of love into jewelry.

JamAlert 1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
How Jewelers Can Fight Back Against Cell Jammers

Criminals are using cell jammers to disable alarms, but new technology like JamAlert™ can stop them.

Jewelers for Children
MajorsFeb 13, 2026
JFC Announces New Beneficiaries

The nonprofit has welcomed four new grantees for 2026.

Saks Fifth Avenue Club personal styling suite in Austin Texas
MajorsFeb 12, 2026
These 8 Saks Fifth Avenue Stores Are Closing

Parent company Saks Global is also closing nearly all Saks Off 5th locations, a Neiman Marcus store, and 14 personal styling suites.

Tudor Heart pendant on display at British Museum
CollectionsFeb 12, 2026
British Museum Raises $5M to Keep Jewel Linked to Henry VIII, Katherine of Aragon

It is believed the 24-karat heart-shaped enameled pendant was made for an event marking the betrothal of Princess Mary in 1518.

AGTA Spectrum, Cutting Edge Buyers Choice winners 2025
SourcingFeb 12, 2026
‘Cotton Candy’ Necklace, 35-Carat Kunzite Win 2025 ‘Buyer’s Choice’ Awards

The AGTA Spectrum and Cutting Edge “Buyer’s Choice” award winners were announced at the Spectrum Awards Gala last week.

Kering Logo
Events & AwardsFeb 12, 2026
Kering Opens Entries for 2026 Sustainability-Focused Award

The “Kering Generation Award x Jewelry” returns for its second year with “Second Chance, First Choice” as its theme.

Halle Berry’s vintage diamond and sapphire engagement ring
TrendsFeb 11, 2026
Halle Berry’s Retro Engagement Ring Is a Sapphire-Set Stunner

Sourced by For Future Reference Vintage, the yellow gold ring has a round center stone surrounded by step-cut sapphires.

Francesca’s storefront
MajorsFeb 11, 2026
Francesca’s Files for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy Again

The clothing and accessories chain announced last month it would be closing all of its stores.

Zales x Sweethearts Capsule Collection Heart Charms
CollectionsFeb 11, 2026
Zales Turns Sweethearts Into Jewelry for Valentine’s Day Collection

The “Zales x Sweethearts” collection features three mystery heart charms engraved with classic sayings seen on the Valentine’s Day candies.

2026 Gemvision Symposium
TechnologyFeb 11, 2026
Gemvision Symposium 2026 Slated for April

The event will include panel discussions, hands-on demonstrations of new digital manufacturing tools, and a jewelry design contest.

The Jewelry Symposium
Events & AwardsFeb 11, 2026
TJS Announces Roundtable, Launches New App

Registration is now open for The Jewelry Symposium, set to take place in Detroit from May 16-19.

The Luanda Accord signatories at the African Mining Indaba in Cape Town, South Africa
SourcingFeb 10, 2026
At Meeting in South Africa, Support for Natural Diamonds Picks Up Steam

Namibia has formally signed the Luanda Accord, while two key industry organizations pledged to join the Natural Diamond Council.

Bad Bunny Performing Super Bowl LX Halftime Show
TrendsFeb 10, 2026
Bad Bunny Wears Football-Shaped ‘Desert Diamond’ for Halftime Performance

Lady Gaga, Cardi B, and Karol G also went with diamond jewelry for Bad Bunny’s Super Bowl halftime show honoring Puerto Rico.

Miraki Jewels heart diamond signet ring
SurveysFeb 10, 2026
Shoppers to Spend Big on Jewelry This Valentine’s Day, Says NRF

Jewelry is expected to be the No. 1 gift this year in terms of dollars spent.

Pomellato Nudo toi et moi ring
FinancialsFeb 10, 2026
Kering Plans Transformation as 2025 Sales Sink 13%

As star brand Gucci continues to struggle, the luxury titan plans to announce a new roadmap to return to growth.

Stuller color of the year 2026 Signature Red jewelry and gemstones
SourcingFeb 10, 2026
AGTA To Debut ‘Stuller Color of the Year’ Spectrum Awards Category

The new category asks entrants for “exceptional” interpretations of the supplier’s 2026 color of the year, which is “Signature Red.”

Stock image of loose polished diamonds
Policies & IssuesFeb 09, 2026
U.S., India Trade Deal One Step Closer to Being Finalized

The White House issued an official statement on the deal, which will eliminate tariffs on loose natural diamonds and gemstones from India.

CASE Awards Graphic
Events & AwardsFeb 09, 2026
JA Now Accepting Entries for 2026 CASE Awards

Entries for the jewelry design competition will be accepted through March 20.

James Free Jewelers Dayton Ohio store
IndependentsFeb 09, 2026
James Free Jewelers Unveils Revamped Flagship

The Ohio jeweler’s new layout features a curated collection of brand boutiques to promote storytelling and host in-store events.

KIL NYC The Pierced Padlock Wounded
TrendsFeb 09, 2026
These 14 Jewels Will Melt Your Heart This Valentine’s Day

From heart motifs to pink pearls, Valentine’s Day is filled with jewelry imbued with love.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy