Auctions

Sotheby’s to Auction 200+ Signed Jewels

AuctionsMar 05, 2024

Sotheby’s to Auction 200+ Signed Jewels

The upcoming sale features iconic styles from Bulgari, Cartier, David Webb, JAR, and Van Cleef & Arpels.

Van Cleef & Arpels Zip necklace
This Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace is set to hit the auction block at Sotheby’s upcoming “From the Vault: Exceptional Signed Jewels” sale on March 7.
New York—Sotheby’s is hosting a single-owner sale of more than 220 signed jewels, including some of the most iconic 20th and 21st century jewelry styles and motifs.

The “From the Vault: Exceptional Signed Jewels” sale includes Cartier “Panthère” jewels, Bulgari “Serpenti” pieces and a Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace, as well as “Mystery Set” jewels.

It is scheduled to take place Thursday at Sotheby’s New York beginning at 10 a.m.

Asprey yellow diamond necklace
This Asprey yellow diamond necklace has the highest pre-sale estimate of the auction, $2 million to $3 million.


The lot with the highest pre-sale estimate, according to Sotheby’s website, is an 18-karat white gold Asprey necklace and earrings set, composed of 50 graduated fancy vivid yellow round diamonds and one fancy intense yellow round diamond (a total of 55.26 carats) connected by links with pavé set round diamonds.

The set has a pre-sale estimate of $2 million to $3 million.

Harry Winston diamond necklace
The design of this Harry Winston diamond necklace was inspired by a Christmas wreath, said Sotheby’s.


A Harry Winston platinum and diamond necklace will also hit the auction block, set with 150 carats of alternating pear- and marquise-shaped diamonds.

“Inspired by a Christmas wreath, the stones were carefully selected and mounted to mimic the intertwining leaves in wreaths and garland,” said Sotheby’s.

The necklace has a pre-sale estimate of $800,000 to $1.2 million.

A Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace and a pair of earclips from around the 1950s, seen at the top of the story, are also up for sale. Crafted in 18-karat gold and platinum, the jewels are set with round and single-cut diamonds.

The necklace can also be converted into a bracelet.

“Celebrated not only for its playful originality, but also for the technical advancements achieved to create it, the ‘Zip’ is a testament to the ingenuity of Van Cleef & Arpels,” said Sotheby’s.

The set has a pre-sale estimate of $400,000 to $600,000.

Van Cleef & Arpels mystery set ruby brooch
This Van Cleef & Arpels ruby and diamond flower brooch features its patented “mystery set” setting.


Also from Van & Cleef & Arpels is a “mystery-set” ruby and diamond clip-brooch, crafted using its “intricate and innovative setting style,” said Sotheby’s, which was patented in 1933.

The brooch has a pre-sale estimate of $200,000 to $300,000.

 Related stories will be right here … 

One of Bulgari’s most iconic designs, the “Serpenti” necklace will also be up for sale.

Bulgari Serpenti diamond necklace
This Bulgari “Serpenti” necklace, set with 141 carats of diamonds, has a pre-sale estimate of $300,000 to $500,000.


The snake-inspired necklace has graduated articulated segments set with 141 carats of round diamonds and pear-shaped diamond eyes.

“This specific necklace is particularly magnificent due to its size and ideal width as it can be doubled around the neck for wear at adjustable lengths,” said Sotheby’s.

The necklace has a pre-sale estimate of $300,000 to $500,000.

JAR spinel and diamond earclips
These JAR earclips are set with octagonal-shaped spinels and diamonds.


A pair of earclips by JAR will be up for sale. The 18-karat gold and silver earrings are set with octagonal-shaped spinels and framed by single-cut diamonds, surrounded by pavé-set brown-hued diamonds.

“These earclips perfectly show off a beautiful use of form, as well as inventiveness with precious stones,” said Sotheby’s.

The earclips have a pre-sale estimate of $250,000 to $350,000.

Cartier Panthère cuff bracelet
The Cartier Panthère cuff bracelet is an “iconic style [that] remains a holy grail for collectors and continues to be a staple at auction,” said Sotheby’s.


An example of a Cartier classic, the Panthère cuff bracelet, will be up for sale. Round diamonds are pavé-set throughout the 18-karat white gold bracelet, while the panther’s head has marquise-shaped emerald eyes and an onyx nose.

“Over a century after its inception, the iconic style remains a holy grail for collectors and continues to be a staple at auction,” said Sotheby’s.

The bracelet has a pre-sale estimate of $100,000 to $150,000.

One of the most expensive Cartier Panthère bracelets sold for over $500,000 in 2022 at Sotheby's, the auction house noted, adding that K-pop star V, also known as Kim Tae-hyung, a member of boy band BTS, recently sold out the necklace on his first day of being Cartier’s new brand ambassador and the face of its Panthère de Cartier campaign.

Cartier ladybug brooches set
These carved ladybug brooches by Cartier have a pre-sale estimate of $30,000 to $50,000.


Also from Cartier is a set of three carved ladybug dress clips, two made of coral and one of turquoise dotted with bezel-set round diamond spots and black enamel accents. The pre-sale estimate is $30,000 to $50,000.

While Cartier’s ladybugs are a classic design, said Sotheby’s, it’s “extremely rare” to present a group of three and the use of hardstone is “especially unique in this case.”

Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. necklace
This Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. necklace features the designer’s signature cross-stitch motif, said Sotheby’s.


A piece by Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. is up for sale. This gold, platinum, and diamond necklace features the designer’s signature cross-stitch motif and is “a bold interpretation of texture,” said the auction house.

The pre-sale estimate is $35,000 to $55,000.

David Webb Twin Frog bracelet
This “Twin Frog” bracelet by David Webb features two frogs set with rubies and diamonds.


A “Twin Frog” bracelet by David Webb is also up for auction. The 18-karat gold and platinum bracelet features two green enamel frogs set with ruby cabochons and accented by round diamonds.

The bracelet has a pre-sale estimate of $35,000 to $55,000.

The Latest

 Sapphire tennis necklace
EditorsNov 07, 2025
Piece of the Week: An MVP’s Sapphire Tennis Necklace

At the 2025 World Series, the Los Angeles Dodgers’ Yoshinobu Yamamoto sported a custom necklace made by California retailer Happy Jewelers.

Foundrae Palm Beach Location Exterior and Founder Beth Hutchens
IndependentsNov 07, 2025
Foundrae’s New Palm Beach Location Is a ‘Golden Solarium’

The brand’s seventh location combines Foundrae’s symbolic vocabulary with motifs from Florida’s natural surroundings.

Watches of Switzerland Mall of America store
FinancialsNov 07, 2025
Watches of Switzerland’s H1 Sales Up 8%

The retailer also shared an update on the impact of tariffs on watch customers.

20-Under-40-2025-LV.png
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America Aligns New Mission to Create Meaningful Impact for Members

From educational programs, advocacy, and recent MJSA affiliation, Jewelers of America drives progress that elevates businesses of all sizes.

AGTA Spectrum winners
SourcingNov 06, 2025
Pink Tourmaline Bracelet, Emerald Suite Take Top Spectrum Honors

Pink and purple stones were popular in the AGTA’s design competition this year, as were cameos and ocean themes.

Weekly QuizNov 06, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
G. St x Jewel Boxing Raffle for City Harvest Graphic
IndependentsNov 06, 2025
Greenwich St. Jewelers Hosts Raffle Supporting Food Rescue

All proceeds from the G. St x Jewel Boxing raffle will go to City Harvest, which works to end hunger in New York City.

Courtney Cornell
IndependentsNov 06, 2025
Cornell’s Jewelers Names New President

Courtney Cornell is part of the third generation to lead the Rochester, New York-based jeweler.

Supplier Spotlight -Recorded-Webinar.png
Brought to you by
Watch: Introducing GIA Jewelry Services

Supplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA

Trucks at Orapa diamond mine
SourcingNov 06, 2025
De Beers’ Production, Sales Increase in Q3

De Beers also announced more changes in its upper ranks ahead of parent company Anglo American’s pending sale of the company.

Ulrich Wohn
WatchesNov 05, 2025
Shinola President Steps Down Just as He Starts

Former Signet CEO Mark Light will remain president of Shinola until a replacement for Ulrich Wohn is found.

Tyla Pandora Talisman collection
FinancialsNov 05, 2025
Pandora Posts Modest Q3 Sales Growth Amid ‘Weak’ Consumer Sentiment

The company focused on marketing in the third quarter and introduced two new charm collections, “Pandora Talisman” and “Pandora Minis.”

Brilliant Earth Jane Goodall Peace Medallion
FinancialsNov 05, 2025
Brilliant Earth’s Q3 Sales Climb 10%

The jewelry retailer raised its full-year guidance, with CFO Jeff Kuo describing the company as “very well positioned” for the holidays.

US Supreme Court
Policies & IssuesNov 04, 2025
Supreme Court to Hear Tariffs Case Wednesday

Ahead of the hearing, two industry organizations co-signed an amicus brief urging the court to declare Trump’s tariffs unlawful.

Stuller Inc.’s Danny Clark, Matt Stuller, and Belit Myers
MajorsNov 04, 2025
Danny Clark to Become Stuller CEO, Succeeding Matt Stuller

Stuller COO Belit Myers will take on the additional role of president, with all changes effective at the start of 2026.

Headshot of National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsNov 04, 2025
Peter Smith: What Do Birds Have to Do With the Price of Gold?

Smith cautions retailers against expending too much energy on things they can’t control, like the rising price of gold.

Mellerio Jardin Pierreries Necklace
TrendsNov 04, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Fall Colors for November Birthdays

Citrine and topaz are birthstones fit for fall as the leaves change color and the holiday season approaches.

Weston Jewelers Fort Lauderdale store rendering
IndependentsNov 04, 2025
Weston Jewelers Heads to Fort Lauderdale

The family-owned jeweler will open its fourth store in Florida in late 2027.

Two of the three suspects in burglary at Queens jeweler’s home
CrimeNov 03, 2025
Men Dressed as Construction Workers Burglarize Jeweler’s Home

The NYPD is looking for three men who stole a safe and jewelry valued at $3.2 million from the home of a jeweler in Jamaica Hills, Queens.

Matthew Rosenheim
MajorsNov 03, 2025
Matthew Rosenheim Takes Over as JA Board Chair

The trade organization also announced its executive committee and five new directors.

Muse’s Have a Heart x Diamonds Do Good Collection on Flaviana Matata
CollectionsNov 03, 2025
Muse’s ‘Have a Heart’ Collab Returns, Now With DDG

The “Have a Heart x Diamonds Do Good” collection is championed by model and humanitarian Flaviana Matata and will benefit her foundation.

Heavenly Vices Mother Father Spinner Necklace
TrendsOct 31, 2025
Piece of the Week: A Spinner Fit for ‘Frankenstein’

This “Mother Father” spinner necklace from Heavenly Vices Fine Jewelry draws inspiration from Victorian Era jewelry.

Interpol Stolen Works of Art Database, The Louvre Museum Graphic
CrimeOct 31, 2025
5 More Arrested in Louvre Heist, Jewelry Still Missing

The suspects were rounded up in Paris and its suburbs on Wednesday night, but none of the stolen jewels were recovered with them.

My Next Question webinar graphic
Recorded WebinarsOct 31, 2025
Watch: How to Master Google Reviews for Your Business

Experts share top tips on how to encourage positive reviews and handle negative feedback.

GIA iD100® Technology
Supplier BulletinOct 30, 2025
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

Sponsored by the Gemological Institute of America

Seattle PD image of Menashe & Sons Jewelers following Aug. 14 smash-and-grab robbery
CrimeOct 30, 2025
29-Year-Old Man Charged in Multiple Seattle-Area Smash and Grabs

The suspect faces charges in the August robbery of Menashe & Sons Jewelers and is accused of committing smash and grabs at two pawn shops.

Alison Lou Lumière Fine Collection On-Model
Lab-GrownOct 30, 2025
Alison Lou’s New Collection Uses Lab-Grown Diamonds and Resin

The “Lumière Fine” collection was born from designer Alison Chemla’s interest in the transformative power of light.

Buddha Mama gold skull pave huggies
TrendsOct 30, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: A Haunted Halloween

Show off your spooky side with these 12 festive jewels.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy