Auctions

Sotheby’s to Auction 200+ Signed Jewels

AuctionsMar 05, 2024

Sotheby’s to Auction 200+ Signed Jewels

The upcoming sale features iconic styles from Bulgari, Cartier, David Webb, JAR, and Van Cleef & Arpels.

Van Cleef & Arpels Zip necklace
This Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace is set to hit the auction block at Sotheby’s upcoming “From the Vault: Exceptional Signed Jewels” sale on March 7.
New York—Sotheby’s is hosting a single-owner sale of more than 220 signed jewels, including some of the most iconic 20th and 21st century jewelry styles and motifs.

The “From the Vault: Exceptional Signed Jewels” sale includes Cartier “Panthère” jewels, Bulgari “Serpenti” pieces and a Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace, as well as “Mystery Set” jewels.

It is scheduled to take place Thursday at Sotheby’s New York beginning at 10 a.m.

Asprey yellow diamond necklace
This Asprey yellow diamond necklace has the highest pre-sale estimate of the auction, $2 million to $3 million.


The lot with the highest pre-sale estimate, according to Sotheby’s website, is an 18-karat white gold Asprey necklace and earrings set, composed of 50 graduated fancy vivid yellow round diamonds and one fancy intense yellow round diamond (a total of 55.26 carats) connected by links with pavé set round diamonds.

The set has a pre-sale estimate of $2 million to $3 million.

Harry Winston diamond necklace
The design of this Harry Winston diamond necklace was inspired by a Christmas wreath, said Sotheby’s.


A Harry Winston platinum and diamond necklace will also hit the auction block, set with 150 carats of alternating pear- and marquise-shaped diamonds.

“Inspired by a Christmas wreath, the stones were carefully selected and mounted to mimic the intertwining leaves in wreaths and garland,” said Sotheby’s.

The necklace has a pre-sale estimate of $800,000 to $1.2 million.

A Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace and a pair of earclips from around the 1950s, seen at the top of the story, are also up for sale. Crafted in 18-karat gold and platinum, the jewels are set with round and single-cut diamonds.

The necklace can also be converted into a bracelet.

“Celebrated not only for its playful originality, but also for the technical advancements achieved to create it, the ‘Zip’ is a testament to the ingenuity of Van Cleef & Arpels,” said Sotheby’s.

The set has a pre-sale estimate of $400,000 to $600,000.

Van Cleef & Arpels mystery set ruby brooch
This Van Cleef & Arpels ruby and diamond flower brooch features its patented “mystery set” setting.


Also from Van & Cleef & Arpels is a “mystery-set” ruby and diamond clip-brooch, crafted using its “intricate and innovative setting style,” said Sotheby’s, which was patented in 1933.

The brooch has a pre-sale estimate of $200,000 to $300,000.

 Related stories will be right here … 

One of Bulgari’s most iconic designs, the “Serpenti” necklace will also be up for sale.

Bulgari Serpenti diamond necklace
This Bulgari “Serpenti” necklace, set with 141 carats of diamonds, has a pre-sale estimate of $300,000 to $500,000.


The snake-inspired necklace has graduated articulated segments set with 141 carats of round diamonds and pear-shaped diamond eyes.

“This specific necklace is particularly magnificent due to its size and ideal width as it can be doubled around the neck for wear at adjustable lengths,” said Sotheby’s.

The necklace has a pre-sale estimate of $300,000 to $500,000.

JAR spinel and diamond earclips
These JAR earclips are set with octagonal-shaped spinels and diamonds.


A pair of earclips by JAR will be up for sale. The 18-karat gold and silver earrings are set with octagonal-shaped spinels and framed by single-cut diamonds, surrounded by pavé-set brown-hued diamonds.

“These earclips perfectly show off a beautiful use of form, as well as inventiveness with precious stones,” said Sotheby’s.

The earclips have a pre-sale estimate of $250,000 to $350,000.

Cartier Panthère cuff bracelet
The Cartier Panthère cuff bracelet is an “iconic style [that] remains a holy grail for collectors and continues to be a staple at auction,” said Sotheby’s.


An example of a Cartier classic, the Panthère cuff bracelet, will be up for sale. Round diamonds are pavé-set throughout the 18-karat white gold bracelet, while the panther’s head has marquise-shaped emerald eyes and an onyx nose.

“Over a century after its inception, the iconic style remains a holy grail for collectors and continues to be a staple at auction,” said Sotheby’s.

The bracelet has a pre-sale estimate of $100,000 to $150,000.

One of the most expensive Cartier Panthère bracelets sold for over $500,000 in 2022 at Sotheby's, the auction house noted, adding that K-pop star V, also known as Kim Tae-hyung, a member of boy band BTS, recently sold out the necklace on his first day of being Cartier’s new brand ambassador and the face of its Panthère de Cartier campaign.

Cartier ladybug brooches set
These carved ladybug brooches by Cartier have a pre-sale estimate of $30,000 to $50,000.


Also from Cartier is a set of three carved ladybug dress clips, two made of coral and one of turquoise dotted with bezel-set round diamond spots and black enamel accents. The pre-sale estimate is $30,000 to $50,000.

While Cartier’s ladybugs are a classic design, said Sotheby’s, it’s “extremely rare” to present a group of three and the use of hardstone is “especially unique in this case.”

Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. necklace
This Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. necklace features the designer’s signature cross-stitch motif, said Sotheby’s.


A piece by Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. is up for sale. This gold, platinum, and diamond necklace features the designer’s signature cross-stitch motif and is “a bold interpretation of texture,” said the auction house.

The pre-sale estimate is $35,000 to $55,000.

David Webb Twin Frog bracelet
This “Twin Frog” bracelet by David Webb features two frogs set with rubies and diamonds.


A “Twin Frog” bracelet by David Webb is also up for auction. The 18-karat gold and platinum bracelet features two green enamel frogs set with ruby cabochons and accented by round diamonds.

The bracelet has a pre-sale estimate of $35,000 to $55,000.

The Latest

Interior of Dick’s Sporting Goods store
SurveysAug 21, 2026
These Are 2026’s Hottest Retailers, Says NRF

The retailers at the top of the list offer affordable products and fun, discovery-fueled experiences.

Daniel Bing
WatchesAug 21, 2026
Bremont Names Former Vacheron Constantin Exec CMO

Daniel Bing was formerly the marketing director for the Americas at Vacheron Constantin.

Bijules x Kamyen Topspin Tennis Bracelet in Grass Green
CollectionsAug 21, 2026
Bijules, Kamyen Serve Up ‘Topspin’ Tennis Bracelet Ahead of US Open

In our Piece of the Week, the designers reimagine the tennis bracelet with green enamel wrapped around a strand of “Desert Diamonds.”

Cover.jpg
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk About

Submit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.

Graphic for Episode 8 of the My Next Question podcast
PodcastsAug 20, 2026
Episode 8: Diamond Industry Update With David Bonaparte & Ronnie VanderLinden

The industry veterans join the podcast to discuss diamond marketing, the FTC Jewelry Guides, and lobbying for lower tariffs.

Weekly QuizAug 20, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Gemstone AI app screenshots
TechnologyAug 20, 2026
A New AI-Powered Gemstone Identification App Is Here

Founder Vik Westermann said the app is a “starting point” to inspire people to work with appraisers and gem labs, not replace them.

Lianna Carter, Lauren Edwards, Thomas Koslowski, Erin Perry, Heran Wang
Events & AwardsAug 20, 2026
MJSA Education Foundation Names 5 Scholarship Winners

The five students were awarded a total of $10,000 through the nonprofit’s 2026 “Future of Jewelry Making” scholarship.

1872-x-1052-July-ad (1).png
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying Events

Retailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.

The Plumb Club 2026-2027 Executive Committee and Board Members
MajorsAug 20, 2026
Plumb Club Elects 2026-2027 Board

Steven Lerche is now beginning his term as the youngest member to become president of The Plumb Club’s elected executive committee.

Mike Alexander and Scott Murphy
MajorsAug 19, 2026
Mike Alexander To Succeed Scott Murphy as Jewelers Mutual CEO

Murphy will retire at the end of the year and Alexander, currently the company’s president, will take over at the start of 2027.

Spinelli Kilcollin Trade-In Bar Program Imagery
Policies & IssuesAug 19, 2026
Spinelli Kilcollin Embraces Dupes With Trade-In Program

The jeweler is encouraging customers who own lookalike rings to come into the store and trade them for credit towards an authentic piece.

Woman wearing Zales jewelry
MajorsAug 19, 2026
Zales Wants You to Wear Fine Jewelry Every Day

The new campaign, “You Are The Occasion,” discourages shoppers from saving their fine jewelry for special occasions only.

Former GJEPC Chairman and second-generation Indian diamantaire Vasant Mehta
SourcingAug 19, 2026
Vasant Mehta, a Dedicated Diamond Industry Leader, Dies at 81

Mehta led India’s GJEPC through the 2008 financial crisis and was respected worldwide for his wisdom, integrity, and knowledge.

Alfredo Colmenero-Martinez and Jarren Frazier
CrimeAug 18, 2026
2 California Men Arrested in Fatal Vehicle Smash Robbery

One is the driver who allegedly crashed a car into a Sacramento jewelry store in April, striking a 71-year-old employee who later died.

The Retail Smiths Principal Partner and National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsAug 18, 2026
Peter Smith: The IKEA Effect and Bridal Branding

In a new column, Peter Smith posits that people actually enjoy putting together IKEA furniture, and the same is true for engagement rings.

Police car with lights on
CrimeAug 18, 2026
Thieves Snatch $1M in Jewelry From New Jersey Jeweler

9lakha Jewelers in Iselin, New Jersey, was the target of a smash-and-grab robbery on Aug. 8.

Ring Concierge x 818 Tequila Bridal Giveaway
Lab-GrownAug 18, 2026
Ring Concierge, Kendall Jenner’s Tequila Brand Collab on Giveaway

The jeweler has partnered with 818 Tequila to gift lab-grown diamond studs to a bride-to-be and their bridal party.

Louis Comfort Tiffany Poppy lampshade drawing
Events & AwardsAug 17, 2026
Exhibition on Louis Comfort Tiffany’s Studios to Open at The Met

The exhibition will feature more than 100 drawings of stained-glass lampshades, windows, and more, many created by women and émigrés.

Spinelli Kilcollin Inara Ring
CollectionsAug 17, 2026
Marquise Diamonds Dance in Spinelli Kilcollin’s ‘Wren’ Collection

Marquise-cut diamonds in drop charms are the center of the new collection, reflecting the movement of a dancer in modular styles.

Ft. Lauderdale Jewelry, Antique, & Object Show logo
Events & AwardsAug 17, 2026
There’s a New Jewelry Show Coming to Florida

The inaugural Fort Lauderdale Jewelry, Antique, & Object Show will be held from Jan. 28 through Feb. 1, 2027.

Karl Getschel and Bob Yanega of Smyth Jewelers
IndependentsAug 14, 2026
Smyth Jewelers to Open Fourth Location

The family-owned jeweler will open a new showroom in Bel Air, Maryland, this fall.

Stock image of a gavel
CrimeAug 14, 2026
Wife of Man Convicted in Jeweler’s Murder Sentenced for Conspiracy

Amanda Ileana Hernandez is married to Carlos Hernandez, one of two men in prison for the 2024 murder of Michigan jeweler Hussein Murray.

Paul Morelli Wavey Vine Earrings
TrendsAug 14, 2026
Paul Morelli’s Latest ‘Wavey Vine’ Earrings Embrace Color

The reimagined jewel, our Piece of the Week, trades the diamonds in the original 1998 design for blue, pink, yellow, and green sapphires.

Cover.jpg
Supplier BulletinAug 13, 2026
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk About

Sponsored by American Gem Trade Association

Two Pandora Talisman pendants
FinancialsAug 13, 2026
Pandora’s ‘Talisman’ Collection Shines, Lab-Grown Diamond Sales Fall

In the United States, second-quarter sales were flat amid soft consumer sentiment and lower in-store traffic.

Picture of 2,488 carat rough diamond next to tweezers, a golf ball, and a loupe
SourcingAug 13, 2026
2,488-Carat Diamond, Largest Found in Botswana, Has a New Owner

Lucara Diamond Corp., which recovered the “Motswedi” diamond from the Karowe mine, sold the stone for an undisclosed amount.

John Hardy Heishi Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsAug 13, 2026
John Hardy Infuses ‘Icon,’ ‘Heishi’ Collections with Color

The expanded collections now feature hand-cut gemstones like topaz, tanzanite, chrysoprase, chalcedony, smoky quartz, and fire opal.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy