Sotheby’s to Auction 200+ Signed Jewels
The upcoming sale features iconic styles from Bulgari, Cartier, David Webb, JAR, and Van Cleef & Arpels.

The “From the Vault: Exceptional Signed Jewels” sale includes Cartier “Panthère” jewels, Bulgari “Serpenti” pieces and a Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace, as well as “Mystery Set” jewels.
It is scheduled to take place Thursday at Sotheby’s New York beginning at 10 a.m.

The lot with the highest pre-sale estimate, according to Sotheby’s website, is an 18-karat white gold Asprey necklace and earrings set, composed of 50 graduated fancy vivid yellow round diamonds and one fancy intense yellow round diamond (a total of 55.26 carats) connected by links with pavé set round diamonds.
The set has a pre-sale estimate of $2 million to $3 million.

A Harry Winston platinum and diamond necklace will also hit the auction block, set with 150 carats of alternating pear- and marquise-shaped diamonds.
“Inspired by a Christmas wreath, the stones were carefully selected and mounted to mimic the intertwining leaves in wreaths and garland,” said Sotheby’s.
The necklace has a pre-sale estimate of $800,000 to $1.2 million.
A Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace and a pair of earclips from around the 1950s, seen at the top of the story, are also up for sale. Crafted in 18-karat gold and platinum, the jewels are set with round and single-cut diamonds.
The necklace can also be converted into a bracelet.
“Celebrated not only for its playful originality, but also for the technical advancements achieved to create it, the ‘Zip’ is a testament to the ingenuity of Van Cleef & Arpels,” said Sotheby’s.
The set has a pre-sale estimate of $400,000 to $600,000.

Also from Van & Cleef & Arpels is a “mystery-set” ruby and diamond clip-brooch, crafted using its “intricate and innovative setting style,” said Sotheby’s, which was patented in 1933.
The brooch has a pre-sale estimate of $200,000 to $300,000.
One of Bulgari’s most iconic designs, the “Serpenti” necklace will also be up for sale.

The snake-inspired necklace has graduated articulated segments set with 141 carats of round diamonds and pear-shaped diamond eyes.
“This specific necklace is particularly magnificent due to its size and ideal width as it can be doubled around the neck for wear at adjustable lengths,” said Sotheby’s.
The necklace has a pre-sale estimate of $300,000 to $500,000.

A pair of earclips by JAR will be up for sale. The 18-karat gold and silver earrings are set with octagonal-shaped spinels and framed by single-cut diamonds, surrounded by pavé-set brown-hued diamonds.
“These earclips perfectly show off a beautiful use of form, as well as inventiveness with precious stones,” said Sotheby’s.
The earclips have a pre-sale estimate of $250,000 to $350,000.
![The Cartier Panthère cuff bracelet is an “iconic style [that] remains a holy grail for collectors and continues to be a staple at auction,” said Sotheby’s. Cartier Panthère cuff bracelet](https://nationaljeweler.com/rails/active_storage/representations/redirect/eyJfcmFpbHMiOnsibWVzc2FnZSI6IkJBaHBBb05WIiwiZXhwIjpudWxsLCJwdXIiOiJibG9iX2lkIn19--dd936e3493d9c630fe0b231bccce3b646a3a6943/eyJfcmFpbHMiOnsibWVzc2FnZSI6IkJBaDdERG9MWm05eWJXRjBTU0lJYW5CbkJqb0dSVlE2RkhKbGMybDZaVjkwYjE5c2FXMXBkRnNIYVFJQUJHa0NBQU02RkhOaGJYQnNhVzVuWDJaaFkzUnZja2tpQ2pRNk1qb3dCanNHVkRvS2MzUnlhWEJVT2c1cGJuUmxjbXhoWTJWSklnbEtVRVZIQmpzR1ZEb1BZMjlzYjNKemNHRmpaVWtpQ1hOU1IwSUdPd1pVT2d4eGRXRnNhWFI1YVZBPSIsImV4cCI6bnVsbCwicHVyIjoidmFyaWF0aW9uIn19--ea15daad36a7f7266e7d591867d534d851352260/20240305_6-Cartier%20bracelet.jpg)
An example of a Cartier classic, the Panthère cuff bracelet, will be up for sale. Round diamonds are pavé-set throughout the 18-karat white gold bracelet, while the panther’s head has marquise-shaped emerald eyes and an onyx nose.
“Over a century after its inception, the iconic style remains a holy grail for collectors and continues to be a staple at auction,” said Sotheby’s.
The bracelet has a pre-sale estimate of $100,000 to $150,000.
One of the most expensive Cartier Panthère bracelets sold for over $500,000 in 2022 at Sotheby's, the auction house noted, adding that K-pop star V, also known as Kim Tae-hyung, a member of boy band BTS, recently sold out the necklace on his first day of being Cartier’s new brand ambassador and the face of its Panthère de Cartier campaign.

Also from Cartier is a set of three carved ladybug dress clips, two made of coral and one of turquoise dotted with bezel-set round diamond spots and black enamel accents. The pre-sale estimate is $30,000 to $50,000.
While Cartier’s ladybugs are a classic design, said Sotheby’s, it’s “extremely rare” to present a group of three and the use of hardstone is “especially unique in this case.”

A piece by Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. is up for sale. This gold, platinum, and diamond necklace features the designer’s signature cross-stitch motif and is “a bold interpretation of texture,” said the auction house.
The pre-sale estimate is $35,000 to $55,000.

A “Twin Frog” bracelet by David Webb is also up for auction. The 18-karat gold and platinum bracelet features two green enamel frogs set with ruby cabochons and accented by round diamonds.
The bracelet has a pre-sale estimate of $35,000 to $55,000.
The Latest

Co-founders Afzal Imram and Lin Ruiyin brought their son’s story of a cosmic egg, toadstool, and railroad to life in their new collection.

The best time to prepare for the holiday season is right now, according to columnist Emmanuel Raheb.

This year’s winner is Morgan Keefe, who is currently studying at GIA to be a gemologist.

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

“The Jewelry Book” comes out this September.


The company is focused on modernizing the custom jewelry buying experience with e-commerce tools like product visualization and 3D styling.

Following its recent acquisition, the storied brand has updated its leadership team and regional managers.

The countdown is on for the JCK Las Vegas Show and JA is pulling out all the stops.

AGS also named the recipient of its “Women in Leadership” scholarship.

The 20-karat yellow gold and diamond wrap ring is modeled after the Monstera plants in the garden of the brand’s Miami villa.

Rocksbox President Allison Vigil shared the retailer’s expansion plans, and her thoughts on opening stores in malls.

The creator of the WJA Chicago chapter is remembered as a champion for women in the jewelry industry and a loving grandmother.

The decline was consistent across age groups and almost all income groups, with tariffs and inflation still top of mind.

The “Playlist: Electric Dreams” collection brings lyrics from the musician’s song, “Little Wing,” to life through fine jewelry.

The event is set for May 16-19 in Detroit, Michigan.

The Vault’s Katherine Jetter is accusing the retailer of using info she shared for a potential partnership to move into Nantucket.

Agents seized 2,193 pieces, a mix of counterfeit Cartier “Love” and “Juste Un Clou” bracelets, and Van Cleef & Arpels’ “Alhambra” design.

The designer brought her children’s book, “The Big Splash Circus,” to life through a collection of playful fine jewelry characters.

The trade association has chosen the recipients of the funding initiative it formed to foster the growth and sustainability of the industry.

The organization has also announced this year’s slate of judges.

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco shares 20 additional pieces that stood out to her at the Couture show.

Lori Tucker started at Williams Jewelers when she was 18 years old.

The “Marvel | Citizen Zenshin” watch is crafted in Super Titanium and has subtle nods to all four “Fantastic Four” superheroes on the dial.

The “XO Tacori” collection was designed to blend luxury and accessible pricing.

Pritesh Patel, the lab’s chief operating officer, will take over as president and CEO of GIA.

National Jeweler and Jewelers of America discuss the standout jewelry trends and biggest news to emerge from the shows this year.

Signatories to the “Luanda Accord” committed to allocating 1 percent of annual diamond revenue to the Natural Diamond Council.