WatchesDec 12, 2023
Citizen’s First Multi-Brand Store in North America Is Now OpenWatchesDec 14, 2023
Breitling Just Bought a 129-Year-Old Watch Brand
Universal Genève is a collectors’ favorite that’s been around since 1894.
At left, an ad for Universal Genève’s “Tri-Compax” watch that appeared in Europa Star magazine in 1952 and, at right, an ad for a women’s watch from the brand that appeared in a French magazine circa 1940. Breitling has announced plans to buy Universal Genève and revive the brand, which is coveted among collectors.
Geneva—Breitling has acquired Universal Genève, a Swiss watch brand that dates back to 1894 and is a favorite in the watch collecting community.
Breitling announced the surprise acquisition via press release Tuesday, with CEO Georges Kern stating, “As excited as we are, we are also fully aware of the task at hand and the profound heritage we are set to uphold. Rebuilding a brand with such a rich narrative is not a quick endeavor—it is a meticulous labor of love that we anticipate will unfold over the coming years.”
The cost of the acquisition was not disclosed in the release but a filing by Stelux Holdings International Ltd., the Hong Kong-based company that owns Universal Genève, shows Breitling paid 60 million Swiss francs ($69 million) for Universal Genève.
According to an online history of the brand, Universal Genève was founded on Jan. 18, 1894, in LeLocle, Switzerland, as Universal Watch.
The name was changed to Universal Genève in 1937, several years after its operations were consolidated and moved to one city, Geneva, in order to save money and weather the Great Depression.
Key watches produced by the 129-year-old brand include the “Cabriolet” (1927), a reversible watch that pre-dated Jaeger LeCoultre’s “Reverso” by four years; the “Compur,” the world’s first two-pusher chronograph, which the brand introduced at the 1934 Baselworld show; and the “Tri-Compax,” a triple calendar chronograph with moonphase, debuted at Baselworld in 1944.
Related stories will be right here …
Breitling announced the surprise acquisition via press release Tuesday, with CEO Georges Kern stating, “As excited as we are, we are also fully aware of the task at hand and the profound heritage we are set to uphold. Rebuilding a brand with such a rich narrative is not a quick endeavor—it is a meticulous labor of love that we anticipate will unfold over the coming years.”
The cost of the acquisition was not disclosed in the release but a filing by Stelux Holdings International Ltd., the Hong Kong-based company that owns Universal Genève, shows Breitling paid 60 million Swiss francs ($69 million) for Universal Genève.
According to an online history of the brand, Universal Genève was founded on Jan. 18, 1894, in LeLocle, Switzerland, as Universal Watch.
The name was changed to Universal Genève in 1937, several years after its operations were consolidated and moved to one city, Geneva, in order to save money and weather the Great Depression.
Key watches produced by the 129-year-old brand include the “Cabriolet” (1927), a reversible watch that pre-dated Jaeger LeCoultre’s “Reverso” by four years; the “Compur,” the world’s first two-pusher chronograph, which the brand introduced at the 1934 Baselworld show; and the “Tri-Compax,” a triple calendar chronograph with moonphase, debuted at Baselworld in 1944.
The Tri-Compax became Universal Genève’s best-selling watch; one was given to President Harry Truman at The Potsdam Conference in 1945.
Patek Philippe distributed Universal Genève watches in the United States in the 1940s, and its timepieces remained popular until the “quartz crisis” in the 1970s, when mechanical watch sales fell off worldwide.
Stelux Holdings bought the company in 1989.
According to a Breitling spokesperson, Universal Genève still makes a limited number of watches and provides after-sales service, though distribution currently is limited to a few Asian countries: Hong Kong, Singapore, Thailand, China, and Malaysia.
Its vintage models remain popular with collectors, selling on secondhand watch websites like Analog:Shift for anywhere between $1,550 and nearly $40,000.
The brand’s potential comeback is creating a buzz in the watch world.
Alfred Gantner, co-founder of Partners Group—which is Breitling’s largest shareholder—and chairman of the Breitling board, said: “Universal Genève was once hailed as the couturier of watchmaking, renowned for its in-house movements and mythical models. It is a brand that watch enthusiasts have dreamed of seeing make a permanent comeback.”
CEO Kern said Breitling will be hiring a dedicated team for Universal Genève so that Breitling and Universal Genève can operate as separate maisons.
No further details on Breitling’s sales strategy for the brand are currently available.
More on Watches
The Latest
Events & AwardsMar 17, 2026
The Best Moments From the 2026 Gem Awards Held just before the Oscars, the jewelry industry’s big awards show had its share of standout jewelry, gowns, and acceptance speeches.
SourcingMar 17, 2026
Cruzeiro Mine Debuts ‘Winter Tourmaline’The Brazilian mine’s new collection features cabochons in soft, muted shades like silver and lilac.
TrendsMar 17, 2026
Natalie Portman Is Tiffany & Co.’s New AmbassadorThe Academy Award-winning actress stars in Tiffany & Co.’s latest commercial, which debuted Sunday night during the Oscars.
Brought to you by
Is This You? Every Jeweler Has This Problem; We Have the Solution.Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.
MajorsMar 17, 2026
Kering Establishes Jewelry Division, Appoints CEOThe organizational change follows Kering’s promise of a transformation after declining sales in 2025.
Weekly QuizMar 12, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
EditorsMar 16, 2026
2026 Oscars Jewelry: One Necklace After AnotherNatalie Francisco rounds up the top Oscars jewels, including Rose Byrne’s Taffin necklace with a more than 20-carat yellow-brown diamond.
IndependentsMar 16, 2026
Ben Bridge Debuts New Honolulu BoutiqueThe store features the first in-store build for the jeweler’s in-house “Bella Ponte” bridal brand.
Brought to you by
DCA Enters a New Chapter in Jewelry EducationWith refreshed branding, a new website, updated courses, and a pathway for growth, DCA is dedicated to supporting retail staff development.
AuctionsMar 16, 2026
Bonhams Paris To Offer Antique, Signed Jewels The live fine jewelry auction will take place later this week, showcasing antique pieces, rare gemstones, and signed jewels.
CollectionsMar 13, 2026
A Trio of Jewels from the 3 Gem Award Nominees for Jewelry DesignOur Pieces of the Week honor the 2026 nominees for the Gem Award for Jewelry Design, Silvia Furmanovich, Cece Fein-Hughes, and Catherine Sarr.
SourcingMar 13, 2026
Andrea Pooler Joins Third-Generation Diamond Company as COO Pooler, who has more than 25 years’ experience in jewelry, is now chief operating officer of Modani Jewels, Soham Diamonds, and SNJ Creations.
MajorsMar 13, 2026
24 Karat Club of New York’s Banquet to Return to Waldorf AstoriaThe reopening of the Waldorf Astoria means a homecoming for the industry group’s annual event, which will take place Saturday.
CollectionsMar 12, 2026
Jessica McCormack Sends Gold, Gemstones Into ‘Orbit’McCormack looked to the 19th century’s “golden age” of astronomy when designing her new celestial-themed collection.
Events & AwardsMar 12, 2026
Johnny Nelson Wins David Yurman Gem Awards GrantNelson will be honored as the inaugural grant winner at the Gem Awards gala on Friday.
TechnologyMar 12, 2026
Caratwise Launches, Names Former Signet Exec CEO The new smart design software allows jewelers to configure, price, and confirm a custom engagement ring in real time for in-store customers.
SourcingMar 12, 2026
Grandview Klein Opens New Factory in South Africa The 10,000-square-foot diamond manufacturing facility officially opened in late February and employs 50 people.
Events & AwardsMar 12, 2026
MJSA ‘Future of Jewelry Making’ Scholarship Applications OpenThe MJSA Education Foundation’s scholarships support students pursuing jewelry careers.
AuctionsMar 11, 2026
‘Spectacular’ 26-Carat Diamond Going Up for Auction in London The largest white diamond to come to market in the U.K. in more than a decade, the VVS1, I-color stone is expected to top $1 million.
TechnologyMar 11, 2026
Cast Jewelry’s Rachel Skelly on Coming Back Online Only Skelly shares her plans for reimagining the fine jewelry retailer she re-acquired after it faltered last year.
CollectionsMar 11, 2026
Pyrrha Highlights ‘The Space Between’ In New CollectionThe collection takes inspiration from the emotional space between people, moments, and experiences.
IndependentsMar 11, 2026
From the Jazz Age to the Information Age: London Jewelers Turns 100In 2026, the jewelry retailer is celebrating a milestone only a small percentage of family-owned businesses survive to see.
IndependentsMar 11, 2026
Virginia Jewelers Raise Nearly $30K for Children’s HospitalThe group of jewelers held a jewelry raffle in support of the Children’s Hospital of Richmond at VCU.
FinancialsMar 10, 2026
Signet Jewelers’ Q4 Sales Fall Flat The jewelry giant released preliminary results for the fourth quarter and full year on Monday, with final results slated to come next week.
MajorsMar 10, 2026
Saks Global to Close 15 More StoresThe retailer also gave an update on its vendor partnerships.
TrendsMar 10, 2026
Messika Names Julianne Moore as AmbassadorThe award-winning actress is the “epitome of modern allure,” the brand said.
CollectionsMar 10, 2026
Gemstones ‘Bloom’ in Sorellina’s New CollectionThe “Bloom” collection draws from the flower power movement of the 1960s and ‘70s with inlay pendants offered in eight colorways.
Events & AwardsMar 10, 2026
Diamond-Studded Painting Shines at RJO Foundation AuctionThe unique piece was one of the custom works offered at the foundation's recent silent art auction, which garnered nearly $15,000 in total.
