Watches

Breitling Just Bought a 129-Year-Old Watch Brand

WatchesDec 14, 2023

Breitling Just Bought a 129-Year-Old Watch Brand

Universal Genève is a collectors’ favorite that’s been around since 1894.

Universal Genève vintage ads
At left, an ad for Universal Genève’s “Tri-Compax” watch that appeared in Europa Star magazine in 1952 and, at right, an ad for a women’s watch from the brand that appeared in a French magazine circa 1940. Breitling has announced plans to buy Universal Genève and revive the brand, which is coveted among collectors.
Geneva—Breitling has acquired Universal Genève, a Swiss watch brand that dates back to 1894 and is a favorite in the watch collecting community.

Breitling announced the surprise acquisition via press release Tuesday, with CEO Georges Kern stating, “As excited as we are, we are also fully aware of the task at hand and the profound heritage we are set to uphold. Rebuilding a brand with such a rich narrative is not a quick endeavor—it is a meticulous labor of love that we anticipate will unfold over the coming years.”

The cost of the acquisition was not disclosed in the release but a filing by Stelux Holdings International Ltd., the Hong Kong-based company that owns Universal Genève, shows Breitling paid 60 million Swiss francs ($69 million) for Universal Genève.

According to an online history of the brand, Universal Genève was founded on Jan. 18, 1894, in LeLocle, Switzerland, as Universal Watch. 

The name was changed to Universal Genève in 1937, several years after its operations were consolidated and moved to one city, Geneva, in order to save money and weather the Great Depression. 

Key watches produced by the 129-year-old brand include the “Cabriolet” (1927), a reversible watch that pre-dated Jaeger LeCoultre’s “Reverso” by four years; the “Compur,” the world’s first two-pusher chronograph, which the brand introduced at the 1934 Baselworld show; and the “Tri-Compax,” a triple calendar chronograph with moonphase, debuted at Baselworld in 1944. 

 Related stories will be right here … 

The Tri-Compax became Universal Genève’s best-selling watch; one was given to President Harry Truman at The Potsdam Conference in 1945.

Patek Philippe distributed Universal Genève watches in the United States in the 1940s, and its timepieces remained popular until the “quartz crisis” in the 1970s, when mechanical watch sales fell off worldwide.

Stelux Holdings bought the company in 1989.

According to a Breitling spokesperson, Universal Genève still makes a limited number of watches and provides after-sales service, though distribution currently is limited to a few Asian countries: Hong Kong, Singapore, Thailand, China, and Malaysia.

Its vintage models remain popular with collectors, selling on secondhand watch websites like Analog:Shift for anywhere between $1,550 and nearly $40,000.

The brand’s potential comeback is creating a buzz in the watch world.

Alfred Gantner, co-founder of Partners Group—which is Breitling’s largest shareholder—and chairman of the Breitling board, said: “Universal Genève was once hailed as the couturier of watchmaking, renowned for its in-house movements and mythical models. It is a brand that watch enthusiasts have dreamed of seeing make a permanent comeback.” 

CEO Kern said Breitling will be hiring a dedicated team for Universal Genève so that Breitling and Universal Genève can operate as separate maisons. 

No further details on Breitling’s sales strategy for the brand are currently available.

The Latest

National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsSep 05, 2025
Peter Smith: A Lasting Lesson From Maurice Tempelsman

Smith recalls a bit of wisdom the industry leader, who died last week, shared at a diamond conference years ago.

Jamie Turner Victoria Labradorite Necklace
CollectionsSep 05, 2025
Piece of the Week: Jamie Turner’s ‘Victoria’ Necklace

The “Victoria” necklace features a labradorite hugged by diamond accents in 18-karat yellow gold.

Stock image of the U.S. Supreme Court
Policies & IssuesSep 05, 2025
Trump Takes Tariffs Case to the Supreme Court

Two lower courts have moved to block the import taxes, which will remain in place as the legal battle continues.

japac-btyb.png
Brought to you by
Rallying Call for the Jewelry Industry on Tariffs and Other Key Issues

Jewelers of America is leading the charge to protect the industry amidst rising economic threats.

gia-edu main image.png
Supplier BulletinSep 04, 2025
A Brilliant Future Is Here

Sponsored by GIA

Weekly QuizSep 04, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Lucara pink diamond
SourcingSep 04, 2025
Lucara Unveils Unusual 37-Carat Pink Diamond

The Type IIa stone, recovered from Botswana’s Karowe diamond mine last month, features unique coloration.

A street in Carlsbad California
Events & AwardsSep 04, 2025
27 Can’t-Miss Converge Sessions, Events

From sunrise yoga to tariffs talks, these are some events to check out at the upcoming inaugural event.

rio-article photo-diamond.jpg
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine Jewelry

As a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.

NYC Jewelry, Antique, & Object Show Autumn 2025
Events & AwardsSep 04, 2025
The NYC Jewelry, Antique, & Object Show Returns in November

NYCJAOS is set for Nov. 21-23 in New York City’s Chelsea neighborhood.

Fabergé x Gemfields Malaika Egg
SourcingSep 03, 2025
Gemfields Confirms Completion of Fabergé Sale

U.S.-based investment company SMG Capital LLC is the new owner of the luxury brand.

Claire’s storefront
MajorsSep 03, 2025
These Are the Nearly 300 Claire’s Stores Set to Close

A new court filing details the locations of the stores that will close, as well as the 830 that will remain open.

Stuller’s Tools, Equipment, & Metals and Findings & Metals Catalogs
MajorsSep 03, 2025
Stuller Releases 2 New Catalogs

The new catalogs are “Tools, Equipment, & Metals” and “Findings & Metals.”

Effy Jewelry Multicolor Sapphire Bangle
TrendsSep 03, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: A Perfect Birthstone

Sapphire’s variety of colors make it the perfect birthstone for September.

Woman with hands crossed wearing jewelry
FinancialsSep 02, 2025
Lab-Grown Diamonds, Lower-Priced Fashion Jewelry Drive Signet Jewelers’ Q2 Sales

The retailer has raised its guidance after seeing total sales increase 3 percent in the second quarter, beating expectations.

Jean-Christophe Bédos Birks
MajorsSep 02, 2025
Birks CEO Jean-Christophe Bédos Steps Down

Niccolò Rossi di Montelera, executive chairman of the board, was appointed as interim CEO.

Harry Winston Ginza Flagship Exterior, Interior
MajorsSep 02, 2025
Harry Winston Opens Its Largest Flagship in Japan

The three-floor space also features the jeweler’s largest VIP salon in Japan and offers an exclusive diamond pendant.

All Hours: Stephanie Gottlieb Fine Jewelry x Oak and Luna Campaign Imagery
CollectionsSep 02, 2025
Stephanie Gottlieb Debuts Silver Designs in ‘All Hours’ Collab

The collection is a collaboration between Stephanie Gottlieb Fine Jewelry and Oak and Luna, focusing on understated essentials.

Sothebys The Desert Rose orangy pink diamond collectors week
AuctionsAug 29, 2025
Sotheby’s UAE Sale to Feature 32-Carat Fancy Vivid Orangy Pink Diamond

The highlight of a single-owner jewelry and watch collection, it’s estimated to fetch up to $7 million at auction this December.

Calvin Klein watch and jewelry campaign
FinancialsAug 29, 2025
Movado’s Q2 Sales Rebound Despite Tariff Impact

CEO Efraim Grinberg noted a resurgence in the fashion watch market.

Mark Davis Bullseye Necklace
CollectionsAug 29, 2025
Piece of the Week: Mark Davis’ ‘Bullseye’ Necklace

The “Bullseye” necklace, with vintage bakelite and peridot, August’s birthstone, is the perfect transitional piece as summer turns to fall.

Image #1_Resized.png
Supplier BulletinAug 28, 2025
Clientbook Is Helping Jewelers Turn Clienteling Challenges into Wins with Hands-On Training and Coaching

Sponsored by Clientbook

GIA’s new report for lab-grown diamonds
GradingAug 28, 2025
GIA’s New ‘Quality Assessment’ for Lab-Grown Diamonds Is Coming

It will classify lab-grown stones into one of two categories, “premium” or “standard,” in lieu of giving specific color and clarity grades.

Botswana President Duma Boko
SourcingAug 28, 2025
Botswana Declares Public Health Emergency Amid Diamond Sales Slump

President Duma Boko addressed the country’s medical supply chain crisis in a recent televised address.

Afton Robertson-Kanne Borsheims
MajorsAug 28, 2025
Borsheims Names New Jewelry Buyer

Former Free People buyer Afton Robertson-Kanne recently joined the retailer.

Sissy’s Log Cabin Back to School and Bling
IndependentsAug 28, 2025
Sissy’s Log Cabin Donates School Supplies to Memphis Students

The jeweler teamed up with two local organizations for its inaugural “Back to School and Bling” event.

Taylor Swift Engaged
EditorsAug 27, 2025
Taylor Swift’s Engagement Ring Is a Fairy Tale for Vintage Diamond Cuts

The singer’s new bling, reportedly a natural old mine-cut diamond, is no paper ring.

11,685-carat Imboo emerald
SourcingAug 27, 2025
11,685-Carat Emerald Recovered From Zambia’s Kagem Mine

Dubbed the “Imboo,” or “buffalo,” emerald, the rough gemstone is part of Gemfields’ latest emerald auction, which is taking place now.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy