WatchesDec 12, 2023
Citizen’s First Multi-Brand Store in North America Is Now OpenWatchesDec 14, 2023
Breitling Just Bought a 129-Year-Old Watch Brand
Universal Genève is a collectors’ favorite that’s been around since 1894.
At left, an ad for Universal Genève’s “Tri-Compax” watch that appeared in Europa Star magazine in 1952 and, at right, an ad for a women’s watch from the brand that appeared in a French magazine circa 1940. Breitling has announced plans to buy Universal Genève and revive the brand, which is coveted among collectors.
Geneva—Breitling has acquired Universal Genève, a Swiss watch brand that dates back to 1894 and is a favorite in the watch collecting community.
Breitling announced the surprise acquisition via press release Tuesday, with CEO Georges Kern stating, “As excited as we are, we are also fully aware of the task at hand and the profound heritage we are set to uphold. Rebuilding a brand with such a rich narrative is not a quick endeavor—it is a meticulous labor of love that we anticipate will unfold over the coming years.”
The cost of the acquisition was not disclosed in the release but a filing by Stelux Holdings International Ltd., the Hong Kong-based company that owns Universal Genève, shows Breitling paid 60 million Swiss francs ($69 million) for Universal Genève.
According to an online history of the brand, Universal Genève was founded on Jan. 18, 1894, in LeLocle, Switzerland, as Universal Watch.
The name was changed to Universal Genève in 1937, several years after its operations were consolidated and moved to one city, Geneva, in order to save money and weather the Great Depression.
Key watches produced by the 129-year-old brand include the “Cabriolet” (1927), a reversible watch that pre-dated Jaeger LeCoultre’s “Reverso” by four years; the “Compur,” the world’s first two-pusher chronograph, which the brand introduced at the 1934 Baselworld show; and the “Tri-Compax,” a triple calendar chronograph with moonphase, debuted at Baselworld in 1944.
Related stories will be right here …
Breitling announced the surprise acquisition via press release Tuesday, with CEO Georges Kern stating, “As excited as we are, we are also fully aware of the task at hand and the profound heritage we are set to uphold. Rebuilding a brand with such a rich narrative is not a quick endeavor—it is a meticulous labor of love that we anticipate will unfold over the coming years.”
The cost of the acquisition was not disclosed in the release but a filing by Stelux Holdings International Ltd., the Hong Kong-based company that owns Universal Genève, shows Breitling paid 60 million Swiss francs ($69 million) for Universal Genève.
According to an online history of the brand, Universal Genève was founded on Jan. 18, 1894, in LeLocle, Switzerland, as Universal Watch.
The name was changed to Universal Genève in 1937, several years after its operations were consolidated and moved to one city, Geneva, in order to save money and weather the Great Depression.
Key watches produced by the 129-year-old brand include the “Cabriolet” (1927), a reversible watch that pre-dated Jaeger LeCoultre’s “Reverso” by four years; the “Compur,” the world’s first two-pusher chronograph, which the brand introduced at the 1934 Baselworld show; and the “Tri-Compax,” a triple calendar chronograph with moonphase, debuted at Baselworld in 1944.
The Tri-Compax became Universal Genève’s best-selling watch; one was given to President Harry Truman at The Potsdam Conference in 1945.
Patek Philippe distributed Universal Genève watches in the United States in the 1940s, and its timepieces remained popular until the “quartz crisis” in the 1970s, when mechanical watch sales fell off worldwide.
Stelux Holdings bought the company in 1989.
According to a Breitling spokesperson, Universal Genève still makes a limited number of watches and provides after-sales service, though distribution currently is limited to a few Asian countries: Hong Kong, Singapore, Thailand, China, and Malaysia.
Its vintage models remain popular with collectors, selling on secondhand watch websites like Analog:Shift for anywhere between $1,550 and nearly $40,000.
The brand’s potential comeback is creating a buzz in the watch world.
Alfred Gantner, co-founder of Partners Group—which is Breitling’s largest shareholder—and chairman of the Breitling board, said: “Universal Genève was once hailed as the couturier of watchmaking, renowned for its in-house movements and mythical models. It is a brand that watch enthusiasts have dreamed of seeing make a permanent comeback.”
CEO Kern said Breitling will be hiring a dedicated team for Universal Genève so that Breitling and Universal Genève can operate as separate maisons.
No further details on Breitling’s sales strategy for the brand are currently available.
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
More on Watches
The Latest
MajorsSep 25, 2026
Sherwood Family Buys Back Daniel’s Jewelers from Private EquityThe Sherwood family and AJS Creations CEO Tejas Shah purchased the jewelry chain back from Palladium Equity Partners.
Lab-GrownSep 25, 2026
Brilliant Earth Collabs with Elizabeth Taylor Estate on Jewelry Collection“The Elizabeth Taylor Collection” uses lab-grown diamonds and gemstones in contemporary designs inspired by the icon.
TrendsSep 25, 2026
A Peek at Taylor Swift’s Game-Day DiamondsThe artist wore Dana Rebecca Designs’ marquise diamond-set gold hoops at the Chiefs game last Sunday. Now they’re our Piece of the Week.
Brought to you by
Meet Gemology’s Next Generation Microscope: GIA® Gemolite® NXT Professional EditionExperience gemstones with greater precision and comfort than ever before.
CrimeSep 24, 2026
From Conclave: Security Measures Jewelers Should Be TakingJSA and Jewelers Mutual shared advice on spotting suspicious behavior, combatting cell phone jammers, and staying safe at home.
Weekly QuizSep 25, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
AuctionsSep 24, 2026
8-Carat Blue Diamond Heads to UK Jewelry AuctionThe fancy light blue diamond is estimated to fetch up to $2.6 million at Elmwood’s next week.
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk AboutSubmit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.
TrendsSep 24, 2026
This New Jewelry Book Decodes the Secret Meaning in Victorian Jewelry“Secret Language of Victorian Jewelry” unveils the meaning behind the symbols, motifs, and gemstones used in Victorian-era jewelry.
Lab-GrownSep 24, 2026
Kira Jewels Opens B2B E-Commerce Portal for Lab-Grown Diamond Jewelry KIRAJewels.one gives retailers access to more than 500 SKUs of lab-grown diamond rings, earrings, necklaces, and bracelets.
TrendsSep 23, 2026
Holiday Diamond Jewelry Trends: Layered Looks, PersonalizationThis holiday season, look to pieces that will help to fill out customers’ everyday diamond jewelry wardrobe, experts say.
SourcingSep 23, 2026
Organization That Promotes Natural Diamond Rebrands for Third Time The Natural Diamond Council is now The Diamond Collective and has announced a new strategy under CEO Amber Pepper.
IndependentsSep 23, 2026
This Milwaukee-Area Jeweler Is Serving the 7CsPaul’s Jewelers sells coffee, chocolate, and cookies from a custom gold-wrapped trailer parked outside the store starting at 7 a.m.
MajorsSep 23, 2026
Kay Jewelers’ New Campaign Goes ‘All In’ on LovePart of its brand relaunch, the marketing around the campaign includes a contest involving a jacket set with 550 diamonds.
Events & AwardsSep 23, 2026
Tiffany & Co. Exhibition Opening at Arkansas Museum The curation, opening soon at the Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art, honors the jeweler’s heritage through a distinctly American lens.
CollectionsSep 23, 2026
Pucker Up for Pandora’s New Pat McGrath Jewelry CollabThe jewelry giant has partnered with the famed makeup artist to create a colorful new collection of charms and rings.
IndependentsSep 23, 2026
Texas Jewelers Association to Celebrate 120th AnniversaryThe association will mark the milestone at its convention next month.
IndependentsSep 23, 2026
Sissy’s Log Cabin’s ‘Back to School and Bling’ Event ReturnsThe jeweler donated school supplies to Memphis, Tennessee, students during the event combining basketball and mentorship.
MajorsSep 22, 2026
Foundrae’s Lawsuit Against Pandora Can Continue, Court RulesA federal judge denied Pandora’s motion to dismiss Foundrae’s claim for copyright infringement of its medallions.
ColumnistsSep 22, 2026
Peter Smith: Our Struggle With Emotional SellingPeople aren’t thinking rationally when they are buying luxury products, and we shouldn’t be selling them that way, Peter Smith writes.
IndependentsSep 22, 2026
Constance Polamalu Named to '40 Under 40' ListThe Baltimore Business Journal recognized the entrepreneur for her leadership in business and the jewelry industry.
GradingSep 22, 2026
GCAL by Sarine Opens New Lab in MumbaiThe facility is located within SEEPZ and is GCAL by Sarine’s second location in India, joining its existing grading lab in Surat.
Events & AwardsSep 22, 2026
NYCJAOS Returns for Autumn EditionThe four-day show is slated for Nov. 19-22 at the Metropolitan Pavilion in New York City’s Chelsea neighborhood.
AuctionsSep 21, 2026
Ultra-Rare Cartier Cheich Watch Sells for $3.4M Offered at Sotheby’s Hong Kong, the one-of-a-kind white gold watch now holds the title of most valuable Cartier wristwatch sold at auction.
MajorsSep 21, 2026
Longtime Industry Executive Pamela Bernstein-Gulla to RetireBernstein-Gulla has been working in the jewelry industry for 40 years, most recently as chief engagement officer for Hill & Co.
IndependentsSep 21, 2026
Bhindi Jewelers Moves Into New, Larger California StoreThe relocated Glendale store, now at The Americana at Brand, was designed to be a contemporary “timepiece haven” inspired by luxury resorts.
AuctionsSep 18, 2026
7.52-Carat Unheated Paraíba Tourmaline Sells for $1.3M at Sotheby’s The top lot of the auction house’s Hong Kong jewelry sale was an Art Deco Mauboussin necklace with ruby beads, which sold for $2 million.
