Watches

Breitling Just Bought a 129-Year-Old Watch Brand

WatchesDec 14, 2023

Breitling Just Bought a 129-Year-Old Watch Brand

Universal Genève is a collectors’ favorite that’s been around since 1894.

Universal Genève vintage ads
At left, an ad for Universal Genève’s “Tri-Compax” watch that appeared in Europa Star magazine in 1952 and, at right, an ad for a women’s watch from the brand that appeared in a French magazine circa 1940. Breitling has announced plans to buy Universal Genève and revive the brand, which is coveted among collectors.
Geneva—Breitling has acquired Universal Genève, a Swiss watch brand that dates back to 1894 and is a favorite in the watch collecting community.

Breitling announced the surprise acquisition via press release Tuesday, with CEO Georges Kern stating, “As excited as we are, we are also fully aware of the task at hand and the profound heritage we are set to uphold. Rebuilding a brand with such a rich narrative is not a quick endeavor—it is a meticulous labor of love that we anticipate will unfold over the coming years.”

The cost of the acquisition was not disclosed in the release but a filing by Stelux Holdings International Ltd., the Hong Kong-based company that owns Universal Genève, shows Breitling paid 60 million Swiss francs ($69 million) for Universal Genève.

According to an online history of the brand, Universal Genève was founded on Jan. 18, 1894, in LeLocle, Switzerland, as Universal Watch. 

The name was changed to Universal Genève in 1937, several years after its operations were consolidated and moved to one city, Geneva, in order to save money and weather the Great Depression. 

Key watches produced by the 129-year-old brand include the “Cabriolet” (1927), a reversible watch that pre-dated Jaeger LeCoultre’s “Reverso” by four years; the “Compur,” the world’s first two-pusher chronograph, which the brand introduced at the 1934 Baselworld show; and the “Tri-Compax,” a triple calendar chronograph with moonphase, debuted at Baselworld in 1944. 

 Related stories will be right here … 

The Tri-Compax became Universal Genève’s best-selling watch; one was given to President Harry Truman at The Potsdam Conference in 1945.

Patek Philippe distributed Universal Genève watches in the United States in the 1940s, and its timepieces remained popular until the “quartz crisis” in the 1970s, when mechanical watch sales fell off worldwide.

Stelux Holdings bought the company in 1989.

According to a Breitling spokesperson, Universal Genève still makes a limited number of watches and provides after-sales service, though distribution currently is limited to a few Asian countries: Hong Kong, Singapore, Thailand, China, and Malaysia.

Its vintage models remain popular with collectors, selling on secondhand watch websites like Analog:Shift for anywhere between $1,550 and nearly $40,000.

The brand’s potential comeback is creating a buzz in the watch world.

Alfred Gantner, co-founder of Partners Group—which is Breitling’s largest shareholder—and chairman of the Breitling board, said: “Universal Genève was once hailed as the couturier of watchmaking, renowned for its in-house movements and mythical models. It is a brand that watch enthusiasts have dreamed of seeing make a permanent comeback.” 

CEO Kern said Breitling will be hiring a dedicated team for Universal Genève so that Breitling and Universal Genève can operate as separate maisons. 

No further details on Breitling’s sales strategy for the brand are currently available.

The Latest

agta-sb-0925.png
Supplier BulletinSep 18, 2025
Will Your Design Define 2026? Enter The Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards

Sponsored by American Gem Trade Association

Stock image of a woman shopping online with credit card
SurveysSep 18, 2025
Deloitte Thinks the Holidays Will Be Merry, PwC Isn’t So Sure

In its holiday report, PwC said the season will be more like jazz—improvisational and less predictable—than an easy-to-follow melody.

Pandora distribution facility Maryland rendering
MajorsSep 18, 2025
Pandora to Open New Distribution Center in Maryland

The jewelry giant will relocate its existing facility to a larger space in Anne Arundel.

reDollar-fine-jewelry-department.jpg
Brought to you by
reDollar.com Is Rolling Out the Next Level Jewelry, Diamond & Watch Consignment Program

With their unmatched services and low fees, reDollar.com is challenging some big names in the online consignment world.

Garçon New York Campaign Imagery
CollectionsSep 18, 2025
Ashley Zhang Launches Garçon New York

The designer, who is the creative force behind her namesake brand, has now started a new mini line focusing on chains for fathers and sons.

Weekly QuizSep 12, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF
SourcingSep 18, 2025
SSEF Opens Applications for 2 Gemology Education Scholarships

The awards include tuition for a course at the Swiss lab, economy flights, and hotel accommodation.

Hill & Co. AI Strategy Graphic
TechnologySep 18, 2025
Hill & Co. Launches AI Strategy Program

The 21-day program was designed to help jewelry retailers identify opportunities and eliminate inefficiencies with AI.

japac-btyb.png
Brought to you by
Rallying Call for the Jewelry Industry on Tariffs and Other Key Issues

Jewelers of America is leading the charge to protect the industry amidst rising economic threats.

Set of four Patek Philippe “Star Caliber 2000” pocket watches
AuctionsSep 17, 2025
Mythical Set of Patek Philippe Pocket Watches Expected to Sell for $10M+

A set of four Patek Philippe “Star Caliber 2000” pocket watches is part of Sotheby’s upcoming auction in Abu Dhabi.

Journey of a Jeweler by Silvia Furmanovich
TrendsSep 17, 2025
Silvia Furmanovich’s Book Tells the ‘Journey of a Jeweler’

The Brazilian jeweler’s latest book marks her namesake brand’s 25th anniversary and tells the tale of her worldwide collaborations.

Jewelers Mutual Group logo
TechnologySep 17, 2025
Jewelers Mutual Launches Shipping Solution App for Shopify

The new integration allows users to manage shipments directly from the Shopify dashboard.

Shot of one of the pools at the Omni La Costa Resort & Spa in Carlsbad, California
EditorsSep 16, 2025
Out & About: 7 Great Quotes From Converge in Carlsbad

At Converge 2025, Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff attended sessions on DEI, tariffs, security, and more. Here are her top takeaways.

Crime police cars
CrimeSep 16, 2025
2 Robbery Suspects Killed in California Pawn Shop Shootout

Six people were shot last week at an Oakland cash-for-gold shop as employees exchanged gunfire with individuals trying to rob the store.

Chopard Ice Cube Modular Necklace
CollectionsSep 16, 2025
Chopard Adds New Designs to Its ‘Ice Cube’ Capsule Collection

The jeweler has expanded its high jewelry offering, which launched last year, with new pieces featuring its cube motif that debuted in 1999.

Natural Diamond Council Retailer Accreditation Program seal
SourcingSep 16, 2025
Natural Diamond Council Launches Retailer Accreditation Program

Ben Bridge Jeweler and Lux Bond & Green were a part of the pilot program. 

Kristen Bell, Angela Bassett, Lisa Manobal
EditorsSep 15, 2025
Skipping the Necklace, Embracing Snakes: The Best Jewelry From the 2025 Emmy Awards

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco shares eight of her favorite jewelry looks from the 77th annual Primetime Emmy Awards, held Sunday night.

Holiday presents in gift boxes
SurveysSep 15, 2025
Resilient Shoppers to Boost Holiday Retail Sales, Says Deloitte

It’s predicting a rise in retail sales this holiday season despite economic uncertainty and elevated inflation.

Buffalo Emerald
SourcingSep 15, 2025
Gemfields Achieves $32M at High-Quality Emerald Auction

It included the sale of the 11,685-carat “Imboo” emerald that was recently discovered at Kagem.

8.33-carat emerald-cut no-oil Brazilian emerald, A. Kleiman & Co.
SourcingSep 15, 2025
AGTA Elects 8 Members to Board of Directors

The newly elected directors will officially take office in February 2026 and will be introduced at the organization’s membership meeting.

Rough montana sapphire
EditorsSep 12, 2025
Out & About: Mining Sapphires in Rock Creek, Montana

Associate Editor Lauren McLemore headed out West for a visit to Potentate Mining’s operation hosted by gemstone wholesaler Parlé Gems.

Arunashi Fordite and Rhodolite Earrings
TrendsSep 12, 2025
Piece of the Week: Arunashi’s Fordite and Rhodolite Earrings

Fordite is a man-made material created from the layers of dried enamel paint that dripped onto the floors of automotive factories.

Susan Jacques and Al Gilbertson
Events & AwardsSep 12, 2025
Al Gilbertson Wins 2025 Robert M. Shipley Award

Gilbertson has worked as a researcher, jeweler, lapidary artist, appraiser, and business owner throughout his decades in the industry.

Supreme Court stock image
Policies & IssuesSep 11, 2025
Supreme Court to Hear Tariffs Case in November

A decision likely won’t come until January 2026 at the earliest, and the tariffs remain in effect until then.

Tabayer’s Nordstrom Shop-in-Shop
MajorsSep 11, 2025
Tabayer Opens Nordstrom Shop-In-Shop

Located in the revamped jewelry hall at the retailer’s New York City flagship, this opening is Tabayer’s first shop-in-shop.

De Beers education app on mobile phone
SourcingSep 11, 2025
Need to Sell More Natural Diamonds? De Beers Has an App for That

The new, free app offers accessible educational content, like games and podcasts, for U.S. retailers.

Gold jewelry on a scale
MajorsSep 10, 2025
Stuller to Swap Gold Scrap for Full Credit to Account

As the gold price rises, the manufacturer is offering a 100 percent payout through Sept. 30 for gold clean scrap.

Jacob and Co Loewe headphones
SourcingSep 10, 2025
Tech Meets Style in the New Loewe x Jacob & Co. Headphones

Jacob & Co. partnered with the German technology company on two pairs of headphones, one set with diamonds and the other with sapphires.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy