Editors

These 6 Up-and-Coming Artists Will Engage You

EditorsOct 18, 2023

These 6 Up-and-Coming Artists Will Engage You

The Emerging Designers Diamond Initiative’s Class of 2023 shows once again how much the industry stands to gain by embracing diversity.

Emerging Designers Diamond Initiative’s Class of 2023
The six designers who are participating in the third cycle of the Emerging Designers Diamond Initiative are, clockwise from top left: Bernard James, Amina Sorel, Rosario Navi (seated), Gwen Beloti, Jessenia Landrum, and Symoné Currie. They are pictured with Natural Diamond Council Managing Director Kristina Buckley Kayel (standing, far right).
In January, Lorraine Schwartz and the Natural Diamond Council announced the names of the designers who comprise the Emerging Designers Diamond Initiative’s Class of 2023.

Launched in 2021 amid conversations about the need for more diversity and equity in fine jewelry, EDDI offers $1 million in diamond credit and grants, along with mentorship and exposure, to brands helmed by Black, Indigenous, or People of Color (BIPOC) designers. 

The six designers introduced earlier this year are the third class to participate in the program. They are Gwen Beloti, Rosario Navio, Jessenia Landrum, Bernard James, Symoné Currie, and Amina Sorel.

I had the pleasure of meeting all six of them at the Las Vegas shows earlier this year. It was my longest appointment of my entire Vegas experience, and also my most enjoyable, enlightening, and energizing.

I hope you enjoy meeting them and seeing their jewelry as much as I did.   


Gwen Beloti, Gwen Beloti Collection
Gwen Beloti’s background is in apparel design, which makes perfect sense when you look at the pieces in her eponymous jewelry brand.

She likes to play with the types of textures and patterns normally reserved for fabric, like my personal favorite from her “Woven Escena” collection, a pair of 14-karat framed drop earrings dotted with VS-clarity emerald-cut diamonds.  

They make me think of tweed, which I’ve been embracing this fall as I enter my mid-life preppy era. 


Beloti also focuses on being size inclusive, which you don’t see much of in fine jewelry. Her rings go up to a size 12, and all of her 16-inch necklaces have a 3-inch extender.

She also uses models of different sizes in her campaigns, a needed representation reprieve from Instagram’s endless parade of long, slim fingers on hands that have been Photoshopped nearly into oblivion.

The designer spoke to National Jeweler about why she believes size inclusivity is important for a special feature in the upcoming Retailer Hall of Fame issue, telling Associate Editor Lenore Fedow, “I was a heavier woman up until early adulthood and, even now, my weight still fluctuates. So, I used to have a really hard time finding clothes that fit.

“When I launched my jewelry company, it was important to me that I consider my own personal experience and my background. I know what it felt like to be left out, to not feel like I had options.”


Rosario Navia, Rosario Navia
A native of Argentina, Rosario Navia names her jewelry after the strong women in her life, like her mother, her sister, her grandmothers.

The “Mara” collection is no exception, as Mara is the nickname Navia’s grandfather had for her maternal grandmother, whose collection of  large, sculptural jewelry also inspired the design of the Mara collection. 

Navia launched her fine jewelry line in 2020 and, outside of the strength of women, she said she finds inspiration in the beauty of negative space and asymmetry. 


I’m a fan of both as well, and I think they work particularly well in Navia’s “Link” ring, which is available in 18-karat yellow, white or rose gold, and in her mismatched drop earrings, also available in all three metals.

They’re beautiful pieces that are both wearable and saleable. 


Jessenia Landrum, Jevela
Jessenia Landrum has loved jewelry her entire life, from when she was a little girl in Boston buying the biggest necklace she could afford at Claire’s, to her time at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City, when she cut a necklace out of a piece of leather during a mixed-media class.

It wasn’t until she began interning for a jeweler and taking classes at Brooklyn Metal Works that Landrum began seeing jewelry as a potential career path.

She launched Jevela in 2018 with demi-fine jewelry. 

The sleek, mixed metal collections she created through the EDDI program, “Legacy,” “Celenia” and “Baton,” represent her first time working with diamonds. They all were designed to symbolize the journey through life we each experience.  


Landrum heard about the initiative through two friends and fellow designers who were members of the inaugural EDDI class, Lisette Scott and Malyia McNaughton.

But it was a bit of kismet that landed her a spot in the third class.

Landrum said one evening, she was working as a cater waiter at an event at Manhattan’s Gotham Hall for an organization called Teens for Food Justice and Schwartz was among the guests in attendance.

Landrum introduced herself as an aspiring jewelry designer and Schwartz encouraged her to apply to the EDDI program.

She said while she does want to wholesale her line, her ultimate dream is to open her own store, on tony Newberry Street in her hometown.


Bernard James
Brooklyn, New York, native Bernard James has been designing jewelry for nine years. 

Originally, he was drawn to the art form because he assumed that since jewelry was small, designing it would be easy.  

He soon discovered designing on a small scale presented plenty of complications and difficulties, but he also figured out something else about himself—he loves problem-solving.  


Before James became a full-time jewelry designer, he traveled the world and worked long hours in fashion, first as an intern at Ferragamo, then full-time at houses including Versace. He tried to do jewelry on the side, in what little free time he had.

His side hustle/hobby became more of a full-time occupation in 2020 when, like the rest of the world, his traveling came to a halt.

James said he started with men’s jewelry in sterling silver, using diamonds as accent stones until he heard about the EDDI program from a friend of his who was working for Schwartz.

And that’s how “Process” was born, an ultra-modern, unisex collection that you can picture on just about anyone.


Symoné Currie, Metal X Wire
Symoné Currie, the designer behind Metal X Wire, trained to be an architectural engineer and has a love for painting. 

She keeps an easel by her bed to jot down any ideas that come to her in the middle of the night, like the form that serves as the bedrock of her 18-karat gold and diamond “Legacy” collection and weaves its way into the designer’s “Lynx” collection as well. 

To some, the pointy shape looks like an arrow; to me, it looks like the devil’s pitchfork. 

Either way, it’s original and it works.

Currie started in jewelry designing demi-fine pieces but began expanding into fine jewelry in late 2021.

In early 2022, mere months into her fine jewelry journey, she met Natural Diamond Council CEO David Kellie at the JA New York show. He told her about the EDDI program, and she decided to apply. 


Amina Sorel, Amina Sorel Fine Jewelry
Gemological Institute of America graduate gemologist and certified diamond expert Amina Sorel founded her eponymous jewelry brand in 2018, with the goal of inspiring people to express themselves and their joie de vivre via hidden messages. 

And joy is exactly what comes through in the New York City native’s jewels, from her spiral earrings that look perfect to wear while popping champagne on New Year’s Eve, to her gold and diamond bangle Morse code bangle, which can be customized to say whatever the wearer wants. 

Sorel’s been designing jewelry for five years but generally sticks to custom and bespoke pieces. 

After hearing about EDDI from McNaughton and Scott—the same EDDI alumnae who told Landrum about the program—she decided to apply and try her hand at crafting a collection in 18-karat gold with diamonds and colored gemstones.

The results are joyous. 


 Related stories will be right here …

The Latest

Selena Gomez, Benny Blanco, Engagement Ring
TrendsDec 13, 2024
Selena Gomez Said ‘Forever Begins Now’ to Marquise Diamond Engagement Ring

Estimates on the size and value of the solitaire diamond, which is mounted on a diamond pavé-set yellow gold band, vary.

Martin Katz tanzanite drop earrings
TrendsDec 13, 2024
Piece of the Week: Martin Katz’s Tanzanite Drops

These half-moon tanzanite earrings totaling 25 carats are part of a special trunk show taking place this weekend in Dallas.

My Next Question webinar graphic
Recorded WebinarsDec 13, 2024
Watch: The Highs and Lows of 2024

The National Jeweler editors recap the top news, the best jewels, and their favorite stories of the year.

ja nj btyb.jpg
Brought to you by
Advocacy and Excellence: How Jewelers of America Is Committed to Elevating Our Industry

For over a century, Jewelers of America has been the voice of the industry and valuable resource to jewelers across the country.

Tom Brady’s Rolex Daytona Paul Newman “John Player Special”
AuctionsDec 12, 2024
Tom Brady’s Watches Top $4M at Sotheby’s Auction

The highest-grossing lot of the sale was the retired QB’s Rolex Paul Newman Daytona “John Player Special.”

Weekly QuizDec 12, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Grizzly emerald mining
SourcingDec 12, 2024
Grizzly Emerald Auction Garners $22.4M

Recent expansion initiatives at the Zambian emerald mine have shown strong production numbers, said Grizzly founder Abdoulaye Ndiaye.

Carrie Forman
MajorsDec 12, 2024
Mark Henry Appoints New Director of Sales

Carrie Forman joins the brand to guide it into the next phase of growth with major and independent retailers in the U.S. and abroad.

undefined.png
Brought to you by
Protecting Your Sparkle: Why Screening Has Become Essential

While no reputable jeweler would knowingly sell lab-grown stones as natural, it's a growing possibility.

Models wearing jewelry by 2024 Shining Light Award winners
SourcingDec 12, 2024
De Beers Announces 2024 ‘Shining Light’ Award Winners

The competition awarded 12 designers, each from a country where De Beers recovers diamonds, with business support and tuition assistance.

Woman wearing a snake ring and bracelet
CollectionsDec 12, 2024
The Jared Atelier x Vera Wang Collection Emphasizes Elegance

The high jewelry collection features 14 one-of-a-kind pieces, with serpent and ribbon motifs winding their way through the collection.

Stock image of a gavel
CrimeDec 11, 2024
Former Tiffany & Co. Factory Supervisor Sentenced for Stealing Precious Metals

A federal judge gave Benjamin Preacher 59 days in jail, plus 10 months of home confinement and two years of supervised release.

Grader looking into microscope at IGI lab
GradingDec 11, 2024
IGI Set to Go Public Next Week

In a CNBC interview, CEO Tehmasp Printer discussed the IPO in India and what declining lab-grown diamond prices mean for the company.

Heuer Monaco Ref. 1133B
AuctionsDec 11, 2024
Sotheby’s Important Watches Sale Fetches $16.6M

The offering included vintage Rolexes, timepieces worn in “Titanic,” Steve McQueen's watch, and a special Citizen pocket watch.

Stephanie Gottlieb, Anna Harman, Stephanie Gottlieb x Studs Collection
CollectionsDec 11, 2024
Stephanie Gottlieb Brings Natural Diamonds to Studs

The 13-piece “Stephanie Gottlieb x Studs” collection is the piercing studio’s first fine jewelry offering to feature the gemstone.

Exterior of Sauer’s Madison Avenue Store
IndependentsDec 10, 2024
Sauer Opens First U.S. Store

The Brazilian jewelry brand made a home on New York City’s Madison Avenue with exclusive pieces only available at the location.

Person at keyboard holding credit card
SurveysDec 10, 2024
Jewelry Among Top Sellers on Cyber Monday, Says Adobe

An Adobe Analytics report explored the rise in mobile shopping, the popularity of Buy Now Pay Later options, and peak shopping hours.

American Gem Trade Association and University of Arizona
Events & AwardsDec 10, 2024
AGTA Launches Scholarship for University of Arizona Geosciences Students

The inaugural Dick Greenwood Memorial Scholarship in Gems Science will cover the fall 2025 and spring 2026 semesters.

JA New York Show Entrance
Events & AwardsDec 10, 2024
JA New York To Debut 2 New Pavilions at Spring 2025 Show

A Piazza Italia pavilion will feature Italian designers and manufacturers while “MJSA Showcase” brings over a piece of the MJSA Expo.

Ray Griffiths and Ray Griffiths: The Works
CollectionsDec 09, 2024
Ray Griffiths’ First Coffee Table Book Spans 5 Decades of Design

“Ray Griffiths: The Works” tells the story of the master jeweler’s career, which started with an apprenticeship in Australia at age 15.

Grant Mobley and Thomas Davis
MajorsDec 09, 2024
Thomas Davis, Grant Mobley Join WJA Foundation Board

Davis is the director of business development at Select Jewelry Inc., and Mobley is the jewelry and watch editor at the Natural Diamond Council.

Movado campaign
FinancialsDec 09, 2024
Movado’s Q3 Sales Down 3% Amid ‘Challenging’ Environment

The retailer has been upping its marketing spend to drive revenue growth and brand awareness.

Treiber & Straub store Brookfield, Wisconsin
IndependentsDec 06, 2024
After 44 Years in Business, This Wisconsin Independent Is Closing

Mike Straub and John Treiber opened Treiber & Straub in 1980 with the goal of bringing Milwaukeeans the best jewelry brands.

Pantone Color of the Year Mocha Mousse
TrendsDec 06, 2024
Pantone’s Color of the Year Is a Delicious Mousse

The color for 2025, “Mocha Mousse,” embodies thoughtful indulgences and everyday pleasures.

Cocoerow Fine Jewelry’s Kokoro Ant Pendant
CollectionsDec 06, 2024
Piece of the Week: Cocoerow Fine Jewelry’s ‘Kokoro’ Pendant

The Yoruba word for ant, “Kokoro” embodies the strength of womanhood in ant society while highlighting responsible sourcing.

Roberto Coin jewelry
FinancialsDec 06, 2024
Roberto Coin Acquisition Gives Watches of Switzerland a Boost in H1

The retailer’s jewelry sales doubled, with branded jewelry performing especially well.

Gold rings
FinancialsDec 05, 2024
Signet Jewelers’ Q3 Sales Slide Amid Slow Engagement Ring Sales, Tech Issues

The jewelry retailer addressed the lab-grown diamond “disruption,” the price of gold, and its holiday weekend performance.

Hand holding shopping bags
SurveysDec 05, 2024
Consumer Confidence Rises Again in November

A more positive view of the current labor market boosted the Conference Board’s index last month.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy