EditorsOct 04, 2023
Meet the Brand Making Lab-Grown Diamonds Cool EditorsOct 18, 2023
These 6 Up-and-Coming Artists Will Engage You
The Emerging Designers Diamond Initiative’s Class of 2023 shows once again how much the industry stands to gain by embracing diversity.
The six designers who are participating in the third cycle of the Emerging Designers Diamond Initiative are, clockwise from top left: Bernard James, Amina Sorel, Rosario Navi (seated), Gwen Beloti, Jessenia Landrum, and Symoné Currie. They are pictured with Natural Diamond Council Managing Director Kristina Buckley Kayel (standing, far right).
In January, Lorraine Schwartz and the Natural Diamond Council announced the names of the designers who comprise the Emerging Designers Diamond Initiative’s Class of 2023.
Launched in 2021 amid conversations about the need for more diversity and equity in fine jewelry, EDDI offers $1 million in diamond credit and grants, along with mentorship and exposure, to brands helmed by Black, Indigenous, or People of Color (BIPOC) designers.
The six designers introduced earlier this year are the third class to participate in the program. They are Gwen Beloti, Rosario Navio, Jessenia Landrum, Bernard James, Symoné Currie, and Amina Sorel.
I had the pleasure of meeting all six of them at the Las Vegas shows earlier this year. It was my longest appointment of my entire Vegas experience, and also my most enjoyable, enlightening, and energizing.
I hope you enjoy meeting them and seeing their jewelry as much as I did.
Gwen Beloti, Gwen Beloti Collection
Gwen Beloti’s background is in apparel design, which makes perfect sense when you look at the pieces in her eponymous jewelry brand.
She likes to play with the types of textures and patterns normally reserved for fabric, like my personal favorite from her “Woven Escena” collection, a pair of 14-karat framed drop earrings dotted with VS-clarity emerald-cut diamonds.
They make me think of tweed, which I’ve been embracing this fall as I enter my mid-life preppy era.
Launched in 2021 amid conversations about the need for more diversity and equity in fine jewelry, EDDI offers $1 million in diamond credit and grants, along with mentorship and exposure, to brands helmed by Black, Indigenous, or People of Color (BIPOC) designers.
The six designers introduced earlier this year are the third class to participate in the program. They are Gwen Beloti, Rosario Navio, Jessenia Landrum, Bernard James, Symoné Currie, and Amina Sorel.
I had the pleasure of meeting all six of them at the Las Vegas shows earlier this year. It was my longest appointment of my entire Vegas experience, and also my most enjoyable, enlightening, and energizing.
I hope you enjoy meeting them and seeing their jewelry as much as I did.
Gwen Beloti, Gwen Beloti Collection
Gwen Beloti’s background is in apparel design, which makes perfect sense when you look at the pieces in her eponymous jewelry brand.
She likes to play with the types of textures and patterns normally reserved for fabric, like my personal favorite from her “Woven Escena” collection, a pair of 14-karat framed drop earrings dotted with VS-clarity emerald-cut diamonds.
They make me think of tweed, which I’ve been embracing this fall as I enter my mid-life preppy era.
The framed drop earrings from Gwen Beloti’s “Woven Escena” collection
Beloti mixes diamond shapes for this 18-karat gold take on a traditional tennis bracelet.
This 14-karat gold open pavé diamond ring calls to mind plaid.
A selection of Beloti’s pieces
Beloti also focuses on being size inclusive, which you don’t see much of in fine jewelry. Her rings go up to a size 12, and all of her 16-inch necklaces have a 3-inch extender.
She also uses models of different sizes in her campaigns, a needed representation reprieve from Instagram’s endless parade of long, slim fingers on hands that have been Photoshopped nearly into oblivion.
The designer spoke to National Jeweler about why she believes size inclusivity is important for a special feature in the upcoming Retailer Hall of Fame issue, telling Associate Editor Lenore Fedow, “I was a heavier woman up until early adulthood and, even now, my weight still fluctuates. So, I used to have a really hard time finding clothes that fit.
“When I launched my jewelry company, it was important to me that I consider my own personal experience and my background. I know what it felt like to be left out, to not feel like I had options.”
Rosario Navia, Rosario Navia
A native of Argentina, Rosario Navia names her jewelry after the strong women in her life, like her mother, her sister, her grandmothers.
The “Mara” collection is no exception, as Mara is the nickname Navia’s grandfather had for her maternal grandmother, whose collection of large, sculptural jewelry also inspired the design of the Mara collection.
Navia launched her fine jewelry line in 2020 and, outside of the strength of women, she said she finds inspiration in the beauty of negative space and asymmetry.
Rosario Navio’s “Mara” collection drop earring is pictured in 18-karat rose gold with six diamonds.
It was meant to be paired with the drop earring with four diamonds for a slightly mismatched pair.
Navio’s large “Folded Link” necklace in 18-karat white gold. It’s also available in 18-karat yellow or rose gold.
The “Link” ring in 18-karat yellow gold
A group shot of the jewelry in Navio’s Mara collection
I’m a fan of both as well, and I think they work particularly well in Navia’s “Link” ring, which is available in 18-karat yellow, white or rose gold, and in her mismatched drop earrings, also available in all three metals.
They’re beautiful pieces that are both wearable and saleable.
Jessenia Landrum, Jevela
Jessenia Landrum has loved jewelry her entire life, from when she was a little girl in Boston buying the biggest necklace she could afford at Claire’s, to her time at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City, when she cut a necklace out of a piece of leather during a mixed-media class.
It wasn’t until she began interning for a jeweler and taking classes at Brooklyn Metal Works that Landrum began seeing jewelry as a potential career path.
She launched Jevela in 2018 with demi-fine jewelry.
The sleek, mixed metal collections she created through the EDDI program, “Legacy,” “Celenia” and “Baton,” represent her first time working with diamonds. They all were designed to symbolize the journey through life we each experience.
Jessenia Landrum’s collections were inspired by people’s shared journey through life, with the pieces named after a member of the designer’s family. These are the “Ricky” hoops in 14-karat white and yellow gold with hexagon rose-cut salt-and-pepper diamonds.
The “Tracey” choker also features mixed metals and a hexagon rose-cut diamond.
The “Ricky” studs, a smaller complement to the Ricky hoops
More pieces of Landrum’s jewelry
Landrum heard about the initiative through two friends and fellow designers who were members of the inaugural EDDI class, Lisette Scott and Malyia McNaughton.
But it was a bit of kismet that landed her a spot in the third class.
Landrum said one evening, she was working as a cater waiter at an event at Manhattan’s Gotham Hall for an organization called Teens for Food Justice and Schwartz was among the guests in attendance.
Landrum introduced herself as an aspiring jewelry designer and Schwartz encouraged her to apply to the EDDI program.
She said while she does want to wholesale her line, her ultimate dream is to open her own store, on tony Newberry Street in her hometown.
Bernard James
Brooklyn, New York, native Bernard James has been designing jewelry for nine years.
Originally, he was drawn to the art form because he assumed that since jewelry was small, designing it would be easy.
He soon discovered designing on a small scale presented plenty of complications and difficulties, but he also figured out something else about himself—he loves problem-solving.
Bernard James “Crushed” necklace from the “Process” collection in 18-karat white gold with diamonds
The diamonds in the “Spectrum” tennis bracelet graduate from colorless to black.
James designed a trio of flower rings for Process, a sunflower, a lily and this ring, a daisy in 18-karat white gold with diamonds.
A group shot of James’ jewelry
Before James became a full-time jewelry designer, he traveled the world and worked long hours in fashion, first as an intern at Ferragamo, then full-time at houses including Versace. He tried to do jewelry on the side, in what little free time he had.
His side hustle/hobby became more of a full-time occupation in 2020 when, like the rest of the world, his traveling came to a halt.
James said he started with men’s jewelry in sterling silver, using diamonds as accent stones until he heard about the EDDI program from a friend of his who was working for Schwartz.
And that’s how “Process” was born, an ultra-modern, unisex collection that you can picture on just about anyone.
Symoné Currie, Metal X Wire
Symoné Currie, the designer behind Metal X Wire, trained to be an architectural engineer and has a love for painting.
She keeps an easel by her bed to jot down any ideas that come to her in the middle of the night, like the form that serves as the bedrock of her 18-karat gold and diamond “Legacy” collection and weaves its way into the designer’s “Lynx” collection as well.
To some, the pointy shape looks like an arrow; to me, it looks like the devil’s pitchfork.
Either way, it’s original and it works.
Symoné Currie’s “Legacy” bangle in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds
The “Lynx” toggle bracelet in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds
The 18-karat yellow gold Legacy ring features a diamond slice surround by a halo of diamond pavé
The pieces in Currie’s Legacy and Lynx collections
Currie started in jewelry designing demi-fine pieces but began expanding into fine jewelry in late 2021.
In early 2022, mere months into her fine jewelry journey, she met Natural Diamond Council CEO David Kellie at the JA New York show. He told her about the EDDI program, and she decided to apply.
Amina Sorel, Amina Sorel Fine Jewelry
Gemological Institute of America graduate gemologist and certified diamond expert Amina Sorel founded her eponymous jewelry brand in 2018, with the goal of inspiring people to express themselves and their joie de vivre via hidden messages.
And joy is exactly what comes through in the New York City native’s jewels, from her spiral earrings that look perfect to wear while popping champagne on New Year’s Eve, to her gold and diamond bangle Morse code bangle, which can be customized to say whatever the wearer wants.
In early 2022, mere months into her fine jewelry journey, she met Natural Diamond Council CEO David Kellie at the JA New York show. He told her about the EDDI program, and she decided to apply.
Amina Sorel, Amina Sorel Fine Jewelry
Gemological Institute of America graduate gemologist and certified diamond expert Amina Sorel founded her eponymous jewelry brand in 2018, with the goal of inspiring people to express themselves and their joie de vivre via hidden messages.
And joy is exactly what comes through in the New York City native’s jewels, from her spiral earrings that look perfect to wear while popping champagne on New Year’s Eve, to her gold and diamond bangle Morse code bangle, which can be customized to say whatever the wearer wants.
Amina Sorel’s 18-karat gold and diamond “Spiral” earrings
This gold and diamond bangle from Sorel reads “I love you” in Morse code.
The designer’s coil-shaped ring features diamonds set amid colored gemstones. It can be customized to reflect the wearer’s aura.
A group shot of Sorel’s EDDI pieces
Sorel’s been designing jewelry for five years but generally sticks to custom and bespoke pieces.
After hearing about EDDI from McNaughton and Scott—the same EDDI alumnae who told Landrum about the program—she decided to apply and try her hand at crafting a collection in 18-karat gold with diamonds and colored gemstones.
The results are joyous.
Related stories will be right here …
After hearing about EDDI from McNaughton and Scott—the same EDDI alumnae who told Landrum about the program—she decided to apply and try her hand at crafting a collection in 18-karat gold with diamonds and colored gemstones.
The results are joyous.
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
More on Editors
The Latest
GradingJan 14, 2025
GIA CEO, President Susan Jacques to Retire at the End of 2025The grading lab said the search for her successor is underway.
ColumnistsJan 14, 2025
Jules Kim: Building Bridges Between Creators and IndustryIn this special op-ed, designer Jules Kim calls on big brands to collaborate with independent creators instead of copying their designs.
Policies & IssuesJan 14, 2025
These Designers and Retailers Are Raising Money for LA Wildfire Relief Several jewelry designers are lending a helping hand to charities in Los Angeles amid the raging wildfires.
Brought to you by
3 New Year’s Resolutions for Jewelry Lovers The new year feels like a clean slate, inspiring reflection, hope, and the motivation to become better versions of ourselves.
GradingJan 14, 2025
Former SSEF Director Henry A. Hänni DiesA pioneering figure in gemology, he is remembered for his spirit of generosity, curiosity, and joy.
Weekly QuizJan 09, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
FinancialsJan 14, 2025
Signet Jewelers Lowers Q4 Guidance After Holiday Sales Fall ShortThe peak selling days leading up to Christmas did not meet the jewelry retailer’s expectations.
MajorsJan 14, 2025
Edouard Schneider Joins Messika as Chief Brand OfficerSchneider brings over 20 years of luxury and fashion industry experience to his role as a key member of the brand’s global leadership team.
Brought to you by
A Diamond Is Forever Celebrates "Forever Present" Holiday CampaignA Diamond is Forever hosted a holiday celebration in honor of their new marketing campaign, ‘Forever Present.’
SourcingJan 13, 2025
Zambia Reinstates 15% Export Duty on Precious Gemstones, Shocking GemfieldsGemfields said the Zambian government revoked the 2019 suspension of the tax with no warning.
TechnologyJan 13, 2025
Ultrahuman Unveils Luxury Smart RingWith versions in 18-karat gold and platinum, the wearables company is blending health technology and fine jewelry.
Policies & IssuesJan 13, 2025
Brandee Dallow Elected President of Ethical MetalsmithsThe executive brings more than two decades of industry experience to the role.
IndependentsJan 13, 2025
The Seven Pops Up in Palm BeachThe New York City-based retailer is bringing its curation of jewels to a pop-up shop at Love Binetti in Palm Beach, Florida.
Policies & IssuesJan 10, 2025
Jewelers Relief Fund Reopened to Aid Victims of LA Fires Created by JA and DCA, the fund is collecting money for jewelry businesses damaged by the wildfires in Los Angeles County.
TrendsJan 10, 2025
Piece of the Week: Elsa Jin’s ‘Mozi’ BroochAdrien Brody received his first Golden Globe while wearing the “Mozi” brooch, which depicts a spill of traditional Chinese calligraphy ink.
SourcingJan 10, 2025
De Beers, GJEPC Partner to Promote Natural DiamondsThe pair will work together to support independent retailers in India with marketing assets, training materials, and other tools.
CrimeJan 09, 2025
US Customs Seizes Counterfeit Tiffany & Co. JewelsOfficers in Champlain, New York valued the jewels, if genuine, at nearly $30,000.
CollectionsJan 09, 2025
Karma El Khalil’s New Collection is an Ode to the MoonThe “Moonlight Rhapsody” collection is overflowing with gemstones, from raw opal to morganite and spessartite.
Events & AwardsJan 09, 2025
Here Is the 2025 AGTA GemFair Tucson Educational LineupThe seminar series covers topics from market trends and colored stone terminology to working with museums and growing an Instagram profile.
SourcingJan 09, 2025
Reena Ahluwalia Unveils New Works in ‘Diamond Trails’ AnthologyThe artist collaborated with industry creatives on the project, which features five fictional stories and five corresponding paintings.
IndependentsJan 09, 2025
Virginia Jewelers Raise Nearly $26K for Children’s Hospital at Charity BallNine jewelers donated jewels for a raffle to support the Children’s Hospital Foundation at Virginia Commonwealth University.
WatchesJan 08, 2025
Oris Debuts Hot Pink Miss Piggy WatchMiss Piggy shared her thoughts on being fabulous, the importance of accessories, and how to be your own cheerleader.
Lab-GrownJan 08, 2025
Effy Introduces Brand Dedicated to Lab-Grown Diamonds“Promise by Effy” includes fashion jewelry and engagement rings.
IndependentsJan 08, 2025
Haltom’s Jewelers to Close After 130 YearsThe Texas-based jeweler is closing all three locations.
TrendsJan 08, 2025
Zendaya’s Engagement Ring Combines Vintage and Modern ElementsZendaya’s ring, featuring an east-west set elongated cushion-cut diamond, is said to be from British designer Jessica McCormack.
ColumnistsJan 07, 2025
The Smart Lab: The Hottest Digital Marketing Trends For 2025Micro-influencers, customer reviews, and shoppable videos are going to be key to getting customers’ attention, Emmanuel Raheb writes.
TrendsJan 07, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: January Is for GarnetGarnet is comprised of a group of minerals, giving those with a birthday in January options when it comes to their birthstone.
IndependentsJan 07, 2025
Edge Retail Academy Names 2024 ‘Wag’ Award Winner The annual award, created in memory of business coach William “Wag” Wagner, went to a retailer in Fairfax, Virginia.
