To celebrate 60 years of the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, Rolex updated the entire range that was launched in 1963 as a professional racing driver’s tool with its tachymetric bezel.
For the new generation, the watch is powered by the calibre 4131 movement that debuted this year, an update to its 4130 predecessor.
The self-winding mechanical movement calibre 4131 includes a chronongraph function with fewer components than the previous version to enhance reliability, Rolex said, and the watchmaker’s Chronergy escapement that is resistant to strong magnetic fields.
There’s a cut-out oscillating weight and Rolex’s take on a classic watchmaking decoration, called “Côtes de Genève,” on the bridges.
The 950 platinum version has a transparent case back with an oscillating weight in 18-karat yellow gold.
The platinum edition also features an ice blue dial. The Cosmograph Daytona’s ceramic bezel that doesn’t corrode is one of the timepiece’s signatures, and the new platinum version boasts a chestnut brown color for the monobloc Cerachrom bezel. It is fitted on an Oyster bracelet.
In addition to platinum, there is an Oystersteel version and a yellow “Rolesor” version that combines Oystersteel and yellow gold. Each has a white lacquer dial, while the Oystersteel features a black ceramic bezel and the Rolesor a yellow gold bezel.
Each of these styles is also set on an Oyster bracelet.
There is also an 18-karat yellow gold variant and “Everose” gold variant, Rolex’s version of rose gold. The yellow gold has a yellow gold dial and black ceramic bezel, while the Everose has a black dial and Everose bezel.
The 40mm watches are waterproof to 100 meters.
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The new Perpetual 1908 is a nod to Rolex’s history. Hans Wilsdorf created the name Rolex and registered it as a brand in Switzerland that year.
Its hallmarks are a slim, 39mm case with a part-domed and part-finely fluted bezel. The 18-karat yellow or white gold case has a transparent case back.
The white or black dial has Arabic numerals for 3, 9, and 12 plus faceted index hour markers for the other hours. A seconds subdial sits at 6 o’clock.
The hours hand has a circle while the minute hand was designed to resemble a double-edged sword.
The Perpetual 1908 has a brown or black alligator strap.
It’s powered by the calibre 7140 chronograph movement, new this year, which features Chronergy escapement, Syloxi hairspring, and Paraflex shock absorbers. The bridges feature the Rolex Côtes de Genève decoration.
The Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42 has its roots in competitive sailing.
The new 2023 version is rendered in RLX titanium, an alloy that is lightweight but notably strong, Rolex said. The 42mm case is set on an Oyster bracelet.
The RLX titanium case has a technical satin finish with a visible grain that is also apparent on the edges of the bracelet links, sides of the clasp cover, and middle of the case sides.
The 60-minute bi-directional bezel has a Cerachrom matte black ceramic insert with raised and polished numerals and graduations. The black dial has a satin finish.
While the look is similar to its 2019 predecessor, the new version is powered by the calibre 3235 movement. The Yacht-Master line was launched in 1992, though Rolex’s relationship with the sailing world dates to the 1950s.
The new Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller boasts its signature two time zones and annual Saros calendar (Rolex’s proprietary annual calendar that automatically differentiates between 30-day months and 31-day months), but with enhancements for 2023.
For the first time, an 18-karat white gold version (returning to the collection) is paired with a black elastomer bracelet.
Two other variants bring new color dials to the mix, a white Rolesor version, combining Oystersteel and white gold, has a mint green dial, which has only previously appeared on the Datejust.
An 18-karat Everose version has a blue-green dial that is only available on this reference.
The new Sky-Dwellers are powered by the calibre 9002, an evolution to the calibre 9001, featuring Chronergy escapement, date and month display, and an additional time zone in 24-hour format displayed in an off-centered disc.
The local time, meanwhile, is on the watch’s main display. The timepiece’s “Ring Command” system allows for easy access to its functions via the rotatable bezel and winding crown and movement.
There are two new versions of the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II this year that bring yellow gold back into the range’s mix.
Each has a two-color, 24-hour graduated monobloc Cerachrom bezel insert in gray and black ceramic. The gray is a new shade for Rolex.
Each has a fitted Jubilee bracelet with Oysterlock clasp and Easylink comfort extension link.
The new GMT-Master II timepieces are powered by the calibre 3285 that display an additional time zone in a 24-hour format.
The chronometer is available in Rolesor that combines Oystersteel with 18-karat yellow gold, as well as an entirely 18-karat yellow gold version.
New to the Rolex Explorer collection is a 40mm model, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer 40, which provides extra legibility compared to the Explorer 36, due not only to the size increase but also the Chromalight display.
The original model was launched in 1953 upon the first successful summit of Mount Everest.
The black lacquer dial is housed in an Oystersteel case. The Explorer 40 is powered by the calibre 3230 movement.
A new dial, fittingly dubbed “Celebration,” is available for the Oyster Perpetual 31, Oyster Perpetual 36, and Oyster Perpetual 41.
The Oyster Perpetual 31 is powered by the calibre 2232 movement, while the 36 and 41 feature the calibre 3230. Both are chronometer movements and provide the essential hour, minute, and seconds functions.
Gemstone dials enter the fray with the new Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36.
While Rolex strives for uniformity, the very nature of the green aventurine, carnelian, and turquoise dials make each timepiece slightly unique.
The aventurine dial is in an Everose case with matching bracelet, the carnelian in 18-karat yellow gold, and turquoise in 18-karat white gold.
Each has a bezel set with 52 brilliant-cut diamonds plus diamond-set hour markers and Roman numbers for 6 o’clock and 9 o’clock.
The new Day-Date 36 models are powered by the calibre 3255 movement that displays day, date, hours, minutes, and seconds.
Originally launched in 1956, the Day-Date was the first calendar wristwatch to show the day of the week spelled out in an arc-shaped window at 12 o’clock. Today, the day of the week is available in 26 languages.