Editors

Designers to Watch in 2023: Arielle Ratner

EditorsFeb 24, 2023

Designers to Watch in 2023: Arielle Ratner

After years of staying behind the scenes, the promising jewelry designer is stepping into the spotlight.

20230224_ArielleRatner-header.jpg
Tourmaline is Arielle Ratner’s most-used colored gemstone. Here a 7.36-carat green tourmaline adorns the “Mega Perch Ring” ($13,530) from the designer’s engagement ring line, while 79.80 total carats of seafoam green tourmaline tells a tonal story in the “Gatsby Trove Collar” ($65,400).
No matter when National Jeweler’s jewelry “Designers to Watch in 2023” launched their brands, their prior life experiences are often an indirect but important part of their journeys. 

Arielle Ratner realized as much during a recent conversation with a client who told the designer she was drawn to her work because she was a ballet dancer. Growing up, Ratner also danced ballet, but had never made the connection between a dancer’s lines and the flowing curves of the pieces she designs. 
 
“Everything is fluid and about curvature,” she explained of her collection, which is designed to lay perfectly on the body. 
 
Ratner’s professional background has been a more direct precursor to her elegant, eponymous line. 
 
After college, the Pennsylvania native studied jewelry at various trade schools around New York City, brushing up on everything from wax carving to computer-aided design and gemology. 

20230224_ArielleRatner-headshot.jpg
Arielle Ratner


She worked for an independent designer, then the David Yurman design team, and finally, a factory that produces for the likes of Tiffany & Co. 

“That taught me a lot about manufacturing,” she said of the latter. “It really set me up for creating my manufacturing business.”
 
Seven years ago, she started a product development company helping large and small brands with all aspects of design and manufacturing. 
 
“I always had my own collection and sold my own pieces on the side,” said Ratner, but she didn’t advertise it, working on client commissions mostly through word of mouth. 
 
“I was used to working behind the scenes for other people,” she explained of her reticence in publicizing her work.
 
That thinking may have been prudent, as it allowed Ratner time to develop as a designer and perfect her craft. In 2020, she was ready to take a leap. 
 
“Over the pandemic I had my son and my interest just shifted. I really wanted to push my work online. I felt more comfortable in my own designer skin and my line started attracting more people, especially on Instagram.”
 
Elegant pinky rings with colored gemstones sit alongside articulated diamond collars in Ratner’s collection. The line feels ageless but developed from a mature hand. 
 
Last September, she launched a line of engagement rings, with original settings like the “Perch” and the “Nebula,” which throw diamond solitaires for a curve with their classic-yet-unique aesthetic. 

20230224_ArielleRatner-insert.jpg
The “Perch Ring” in 18-karat white and yellow gold with 3.24 fancy yellow antique diamond and white diamond pavé ($42,350) is from Arielle Ratner’s new engagement ring collection.

If Ratner spent years planting seeds in jewelry design and manufacturing, now she’s reaping the harvest.
 
I chatted with Ratner about her jewelry beginnings, her passion for bridal, and finally stepping into the spotlight.  
 
This interview has been edited for length and clarity. 
 
Ashley Davis: How did you originally get into jewelry?
 
Arielle Ratner: I always had a deep fascination with jewelry from a young age. I loved fashion and design but fashion felt kind of disposable whereas jewelry felt more sustainable in a way and more special. 
 
I had a little beaded jewelry business from age 12 to 16 and people still bring up the pieces they have that I made from that time. In college I studied economics but I realized I wanted to pursue jewelry making. 
 
AD: Let’s talk about the engagement rings you launched in September. What inspired the collection?
 
AR: I felt there was really a gap in the market. 
 
There are engagement rings that are mostly about the stone and not necessarily about an artful setting. Then, on the other end of the spectrum, there might be a very high-end piece from designers we all look up to like JAR and it seemed like there was nothing in between. 
 
If you wanted something that was well designed and beautifully made with exquisite stones and kind of a different take on engagement, I felt like there was not much to offer. That’s my niche, that’s my favorite thing. 
 
“I loved fashion and design but fashion felt kind of disposable whereas jewelry felt more sustainable in a way.” – Arielle Ratner
 
AD: I’m curious about the shift you felt during the pandemic after you became a mom. Can you tell me more about that?
 
AR: When you have children you don’t want to be in the trenches as much in your day-to-day work. 
 
At that time, I also was kind of growing up in terms of being a designer. I was sick of being the problem solver for other people because I wanted to do bigger-picture things.
 
The pandemic obviously made everyone question what they were doing. It allowed me to time to start thinking about myself. 
 
AD: Focusing on your own brand more than your consulting I’m sure is just as much work in a certain capacity, but is it more satisfying?
 
AR: Yes, it’s satisfying creatively and gratifying to meet people and feel like I’m adding to their joy with their purchase. I wouldn’t have been ready five or six years ago. I just wasn’t there mentally. 
 
AD: In what way were you not ready?
 
AR: My skill set was there but I wasn’t ready to be forwarding facing to the client. I wasn’t ready to market myself. I liked to hide behind other people and just do the work. As a designer, these days with Instagram and everything, you to have to be so public about who you are and I wasn’t ready at the time. 
 


AD: As a result of waiting, your work looks so mature. You can see your experience in the work. How would you describe your design aesthetic?
 
AR: There’s a certain classicism. I’m a classic person. I love classic design, like old Art Deco design and style icons like Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly. But I also want to take a modern approach to jewelry.
 
I don’t want to just recreate classics, right? I want to take them and modernize them slightly and add an edge. 
 
I was a very intensive ballet dancer throughout my childhood. The first thing I consider [in jewelry making] is of course the design of the jewelry, but it’s also really important to me the way the pieces fit the woman or man’s body, the way it lays on the collar bone or the way it accentuates your face. 
 
I’m always looking at the overall picture, asking myself how a piece is going to enhance how someone looks as opposed to just being a piece that they wear. It could be cool but is it going to be beautiful on them? Is it going to fit them? Is it going to accentuate them? 
 
Drawing from my ballet history I look at lines, at sculpture. I look for things that are very pleasing to the eye. I really try to make my jewelry flattering on the human form. 
 
“If you wanted … a different take on engagement, I felt like there was not much to offer. That’s my niche, that’s my favorite thing.” – Arielle Ratner
 
AD: I want to touch on gemstones because you have so many great colored gemstone pieces. What gem are you the most attracted to?
 
AR: Non-commercial stones. I’m typically not drawn to aquamarine or peridot or anything that would be widely available and used commercially. I like stones that are unique.
 
Tourmaline has been a staple of mine. I love all the shades of it. Lately I’ve been working a lot in spinel, which has some really muted tones and pale tones but really packs a punch. I love ruby. I don’t do a lot with big rubies but I do a lot in ruby melee. 
 
AD: When you’re using multiple stones in a piece I’ve noticed you have a penchant for not matching the color exactly, like when you’re using several green tourmalines, for example. Is that a signature for you?
 
AR: I don’t really like matching. I like tonal variation. I like colors that play off each other. If were doing a melee layout I want to see a whole range of color within the blue range or within the pink range. It adds so much dimension and interest.
 
AD: As opposed to them being one color.
 
AR: We spend hours placing each stone to get the perfect layout. 
 
“I want to take [classics] and modernize then slightly and add an edge.” – Arielle Ratner
 
AD: Are you interested in getting into retail stores?
 
AR: I do a lot of one-of-a-kind pieces and my product is not very uniform, but I’m looking into doing trunk shows with stores. 
 
AD: Do you have any other goals for 2023?
 
AR: I would be to get real exposure for my engagement ring line. It’s been doing really well. 
 
It’s so fun for me to meet couples and hear their story. Making their ring is so personal. I work mostly with antique diamonds and I love having the history in the provenance. It’s just been really fulfilling. 
 
 Related stories will be right here … 

The Latest

Future Fortune sapphire ring
TechnologyMar 28, 2024
Pinterest’s 2024 Wedding Report Is Out

The report shows that couples are searching for vintage and antique rings, gold jewelry, pearls, and colorful pieces.

David Ettinger
IndependentsMar 28, 2024
David Ettinger of Bechdel Jewelers Dies at 69

He’s remembered as a “font of passion,” leaving behind a legacy of dedication to his craft and community.

Jewelers of America logo
IndependentsMar 28, 2024
JA to Host Series of Learning Workshops

The first one will take place next month during the Jewelers of Louisiana’s and Mississippi Jewelers Association’s conventions.

Jewelers of America Fly In Washington, D.C.
Brought to you by
How Jewelers of America Represents Your Business

For over 30 years, JA has advocated for the industry, fought against harmful legislation and backed measures that help jewelry businesses.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Madison Avenue NYC store
WatchesMar 28, 2024
Peek Inside Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Revamped NYC Flagship

The redesigned boutique features interactive displays and a workshop space for hands-on learning about watchmaking.

Weekly QuizMar 28, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge with this short test.
Take the Quiz
Asian Star’s diamond manufacturing facility in India
SourcingMar 27, 2024
Compliance, Caution, and Concern: The Current Outlook of Indian Diamantaires

There is a willingness to comply with new government-mandated regulations, with an insistence that they should be practical and realistic.

Kira Diam solar plant
Lab-GrownMar 27, 2024
Indian Lab-Grown Diamond Manufacturers Keep Growing

A combination of factors is driving growth in the industry despite the precipitous drop in prices across the board.

BTYB-HoBrothers-updated.png
Brought to you by
The Scalable, Professional, and Effortless Solution for High-Demand Custom Jewelry Retailers

Ho Brothers offers scalable solutions for the future of custom jewelry.

Bharat Ratnam, a Mega Common Facilitation Centre (CFC)
SourcingMar 27, 2024
Reinvigorating SEEPZ, the Epicenter of India’s Studded Jewelry Exports

The zone’s modernization will enhance and increase India’s jewelry manufacturing capabilities while aiding small and mid-sized businesses.

SRK Empire and SRK House
Policies & IssuesMar 27, 2024
SRK Exports’ Journey Toward Net Zero Impact

By the end of this year, SRK’s diamond manufacturing complexes will achieve net zero emissions, one of an impressive array of achievements.

Georgia May Jagger Tommy Hilfiger ad campaign
FinancialsMar 27, 2024
Movado’s Full-Year Sales Sink 11%

The company plans to invest $25 million in marketing initiatives to boost awareness around its namesake and licensed brands.

Hand holding shopping bags
SurveysMar 27, 2024
Consumer Confidence Held Steady in March

Optimism about the current state of the economy was offset by anxiety around inflation and the political environment.

Bernadette Mack
Policies & IssuesMar 27, 2024
Mercury Free Mining Hires Bernadette Mack

The former WJA executive director is MFM’s new managing director.

April Is Diamonds Do Good Month
Policies & IssuesMar 27, 2024
Diamonds Do Good Announces Its April Initiative

DDG encourages retailers to educate customers on the positive impact of purchasing natural diamonds.

Tiffany & Co. With Love, Since 1837
MajorsMar 26, 2024
Tiffany & Co. Debuts ‘With Love, Since 1837’ Campaign

Highlighting the most iconic Tiffany collections, it’s inspired by the company’s late window designer, Gene Moore.

National Jeweler columnists Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams
ColumnistsMar 26, 2024
Creative Connecting: AI Tools and Tips for Social Media

Jen Cullen Williams and Duvall O’Steen explore how jewelers can save time and money by using AI to analyze engagement and create content.

Nordstrom Men’s Store New York City
MajorsMar 26, 2024
Nordstrom May Go Private, Says Report

The retailer previously turned down an $8.4 billion offer in 2018.

Interior of Miami Lakes Jewelers
IndependentsMar 26, 2024
Miami Lakes Jewelers to Close After 37 Years

The Florida store’s owner Miguel Gonzalez is retiring.

 International Gemological Institute
GradingMar 26, 2024
IGI Announces Tech for ID’ing Lab-Grown Colored Diamonds

The lab stresses the importance of accurate identification, as the difference in price is “substantial.”

Kendra Scott lab-grown diamond jewelry
CollectionsMar 25, 2024
Kendra Scott Debuts Lab-Grown Diamond Fashion Jewelry

The brand also plans to expand its retail footprint from 138 to 200 stores over the next three years.

Instappraise logo NAJA logo
Events & AwardsMar 25, 2024
NAJA, Instappraise Offering Scholarships for Aspiring Jewelry Appraisers

One is reserved for a NAJA member, the other for a non-member.

Carie Lehrke and Megan Mattice
MajorsMar 25, 2024
Borsheims Announces New VP of HR, Assistant Manager

Longtime employees Carie Lehrke and Megan Mattice have received promotions.

My Next Question graphic vintage jewelry webinar
Recorded WebinarsMar 22, 2024
Watch: How to Buy and Sell Vintage Jewelry

Three guests joined National Jeweler and Jewelers of America to discuss trending time periods, spotting reproductions, and more.

Chris Clipper and Robert Lepere
MajorsMar 22, 2024
David Yurman Announces New CFO, Chief People Officer

Chris Clipper and Robert Lepere join the company with 50 years of combined experience.

Nakard pyrite earrings
CollectionsMar 22, 2024
Piece of the Week: Nakard’s Pyrite Earrings

The trendy, metallic earrings wink at classic spring colors.

Stock image of police cars with their lights on
CrimeMar 21, 2024
Sparks Fly as Burglars Lose Safe on California Freeway

JSA said a man and woman pulled the safe out of an Oakland jewelry store but couldn’t quite get it into their van.

Grizzly Mining rough emeralds
SourcingMar 21, 2024
Grizzly Sells 4,145-Carat Emerald for Over $1M

The miner’s March auction generated $19 million.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy