GradingAug 24, 2022
IGI Becomes Valuation Partner for LuxusGradingSep 07, 2022
IGI Now Providing Cut Grades for Fancy Shapes
The lab said more attention is being paid to a diamond’s cut, and that interest extends beyond round brilliants.
The International Gemological Institute just introduced cut grades for fancy-shaped diamonds, saying it has created a four-step system combining proportions requirements with visual assessment.
Antwerp—The International Gemological Institute announced last week it has added cut grade to its reports for loose fancy-shaped diamonds, a change that comes at time when consumer interest in both grading reports and fancy shapes is growing.
After piloting the program with a small group of clients, the lab said it will now add the service at all 20 of its laboratories worldwide for the following nine shapes: pear, oval, marquise, princess, heart, emerald, square emerald, square cushion modified brilliant, and cut-cornered square modified brilliant.
It will be optional for manufacturers for a six-month period.
“For many decades, carat, color, and clarity were the main points of emphasis with consumers,” IGI CEO Roland Lorie said.
“In recent years we have seen increasing attention drawn to cut, first with rounds and now with fancies. IGI has proactively responded to the growing demand for this assessment, in the interest of better serving buyers and sellers alike.”
The lab said while light behavior in round diamonds can be predicted using measurements, cut grades for fancy shapes are less common due to more “underlying complexity.”
The Gemological Institute of America currently doesn’t issue cut grades for fancy shapes but Al Gilbertson, GIA research associate and diamond cut expert, told National Jeweler, “Research into a scientific, standards-based cut grading system for fancy shape diamonds is a very active pursuit at GIA.”
AGS Laboratories does cut grades for three fancy shapes: princess, oval, and emerald.
The Gem Certification & Assurance Lab does provide cut grades for fancy shapes, and in the spring, expanded its new cut grade standard, 8X, to oval and princess-cut diamonds.
The lab said cushions would be next.
Related stories will be right here …
After piloting the program with a small group of clients, the lab said it will now add the service at all 20 of its laboratories worldwide for the following nine shapes: pear, oval, marquise, princess, heart, emerald, square emerald, square cushion modified brilliant, and cut-cornered square modified brilliant.
It will be optional for manufacturers for a six-month period.
“For many decades, carat, color, and clarity were the main points of emphasis with consumers,” IGI CEO Roland Lorie said.
“In recent years we have seen increasing attention drawn to cut, first with rounds and now with fancies. IGI has proactively responded to the growing demand for this assessment, in the interest of better serving buyers and sellers alike.”
The lab said while light behavior in round diamonds can be predicted using measurements, cut grades for fancy shapes are less common due to more “underlying complexity.”
The Gemological Institute of America currently doesn’t issue cut grades for fancy shapes but Al Gilbertson, GIA research associate and diamond cut expert, told National Jeweler, “Research into a scientific, standards-based cut grading system for fancy shape diamonds is a very active pursuit at GIA.”
AGS Laboratories does cut grades for three fancy shapes: princess, oval, and emerald.
The Gem Certification & Assurance Lab does provide cut grades for fancy shapes, and in the spring, expanded its new cut grade standard, 8X, to oval and princess-cut diamonds.
The lab said cushions would be next.
For its fancy shape cut grade, IGI said it has developed a four-step system combining proportions requirements with visual assessments; it is explained in a video on the lab’s website.
According to the video, the first step is traditional assessment of polish and symmetry followed by proportions qualification, with IGI noting it will provide manufacturers with “Guidelines for Excellent,” detailing the fancy shape parameters observed to create the most beautiful diamonds.
The third step is what IGI described as “additional requirements” that are shape specific, while the fourth and final step is light return grading.
Because of the optical variety in the various fancy shapes, IGI said the cut grade will not be an assessment of fire or scintillation but instead “fundamental light behavior”—how much light the diamond returns when compared with other diamonds of the same shape.
IGI Laboratory Director Benoit Scheyvaerts said: “We use proportions ranges to identify candidates for the Excellent grade, but our gemologists are now evaluating light return, in addition to polish and symmetry.
“Given the wide optical variety of fancy shapes, this is not a dispersion or scintillation analysis. It is a basic assessment of overall light return versus darkness.”
More on Grading
The Latest
ColumnistsJan 07, 2026
Peter Smith: Physical Retail—The Beginning or the End?As the shopping mall model evolves and online retail grows, Smith shares his predictions for the future of physical stores.
Events & AwardsJan 07, 2026
Melee Adds 13 New Designers to NYC ShowThe trade show is slated for Jan. 31-Feb. 2 at The Lighthouse in New York City's Chelsea neighborhood.
TrendsJan 07, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Go for GarnetJanuary’s birthstone comes in a rainbow of colors, from the traditional red to orange, purple, and green.
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow TodayHow Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.
SourcingJan 07, 2026
Diamonds Do Good Releases 2025 Impact ReportThe annual report highlights how it supported communities in areas where natural diamonds are mined, crafted, and sold.
Weekly QuizDec 23, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
CrimeJan 06, 2026
2 Jewelers Arrested After TraxNYC Diamond District BrawlFootage of a fight breaking out in the NYC Diamond District was viewed millions of times on Instagram and Facebook.
MajorsJan 06, 2026
Rio Grande Says These Are the Top Personalization Tools for 2026The supplier has a curated list of must-have tools for jewelers doing in-house custom work this year.
Brought to you by
Roseco Releases New Full-Line CatalogRoseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.
MajorsJan 06, 2026
Zales Tests Out A New LookThe Signet Jewelers-owned store, which turned 100 last year, calls its new concept stores “The Edit.”
MajorsJan 06, 2026
LeachGarner Appoints New Director of SalesLinda Coutu is rejoining the precious metals provider as its director of sales.
SourcingJan 06, 2026
AGA Announces 2026 BoardThe governing board welcomed two new members, Claire Scragg and Susan Eisen.
TrendsJan 05, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: New Year’s EditionSparkle with festive diamond jewelry as we celebrate the beginning of 2026.
IndependentsJan 05, 2026
Jeweler Ben Nighthorse Campbell Dies at 92The master jeweler, Olympian, former senator, and Korean War veteran founded the brand Nighthorse Jewelry.
TrendsJan 05, 2026
Pinterest 2026 Trend Report: Brooches, Bold Gold, Cool BlueIn its annual report, Pinterest noted an increase in searches for brooches, heirloom jewelry, and ‘80s luxury.
MajorsJan 02, 2026
Marc Metrick Out as CEO of Saks Global Executive Chairman Richard Baker will take over the role as rumors swirl that a bankruptcy filing is imminent for the troubled retailer.
Events & AwardsJan 02, 2026
Jan Mohr, Couture’s ‘North Star,’ Dies at 71Mohr had just retired in June after more than two decades as Couture’s retailer liaison.
SourcingJan 02, 2026
IDCA Elects New President, Board of DirectorsShekhar Shah of Real Gems Inc. will serve as president of the Indian Diamond & Colorstone Association in 2026.
CollectionsJan 02, 2026
Lalaounis’ 2026 Good Luck Charm Speaks to ResilienceThis year’s good luck charm features the mythical horse Pegasus, and is our first Piece of the Week of the new year.
EditorsDec 31, 2025
The Top 5 Stories of 2025Articles about crime, engagement rings, and a necklace worn in the World Series generated the most interest among readers.
MajorsDec 30, 2025
Becka Johnson Kibby to Lead Edge Retail AcademyAs part of the leadership transition, Sherry Smith will take on the role of vice president of coaching strategy and development.
SourcingDec 30, 2025
India Chosen as KP Chair for 2026It marks the third time the country has headed the Kimberley Process. Ghana will serve as vice chair.
WatchesDec 30, 2025
Bulova, Stetson Collab on Watches With Western FlairThe new Bulova x Stetson designs highlight two animals often associated with the American West—the bison and the Texas Longhorn.
CollectionsDec 30, 2025
Rahaminov Diamonds Pops Up in FloridaIts residency at Yamron Jewelers will run through May 2026.
IndependentsDec 29, 2025
In Memoriam: Industry Friends We Lost in 2025From influential executives to innovative designers, we pay tribute to the people we said goodbye to this year.
MajorsDec 29, 2025
Tanishq Opens New Stores in Florida, VirginiaThe retailer is expanding into areas with large Indian and South Asian populations.
MajorsDec 29, 2025
Nanis Opens First Flagship Store The Italian brand has opened its first flagship amid the peaks of the Dolomites in Madonna di Campiglio, Italy.
SourcingDec 29, 2025
‘Unearthed: Raw Beauty’ Exhibition Opens at LA MuseumThe new curation at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County showcases rare gem and mineral specimens in their uncut, natural state.
