GradingAug 24, 2022
IGI Becomes Valuation Partner for LuxusGradingSep 07, 2022
IGI Now Providing Cut Grades for Fancy Shapes
The lab said more attention is being paid to a diamond’s cut, and that interest extends beyond round brilliants.
The International Gemological Institute just introduced cut grades for fancy-shaped diamonds, saying it has created a four-step system combining proportions requirements with visual assessment.
Antwerp—The International Gemological Institute announced last week it has added cut grade to its reports for loose fancy-shaped diamonds, a change that comes at time when consumer interest in both grading reports and fancy shapes is growing.
After piloting the program with a small group of clients, the lab said it will now add the service at all 20 of its laboratories worldwide for the following nine shapes: pear, oval, marquise, princess, heart, emerald, square emerald, square cushion modified brilliant, and cut-cornered square modified brilliant.
It will be optional for manufacturers for a six-month period.
“For many decades, carat, color, and clarity were the main points of emphasis with consumers,” IGI CEO Roland Lorie said.
“In recent years we have seen increasing attention drawn to cut, first with rounds and now with fancies. IGI has proactively responded to the growing demand for this assessment, in the interest of better serving buyers and sellers alike.”
The lab said while light behavior in round diamonds can be predicted using measurements, cut grades for fancy shapes are less common due to more “underlying complexity.”
The Gemological Institute of America currently doesn’t issue cut grades for fancy shapes but Al Gilbertson, GIA research associate and diamond cut expert, told National Jeweler, “Research into a scientific, standards-based cut grading system for fancy shape diamonds is a very active pursuit at GIA.”
AGS Laboratories does cut grades for three fancy shapes: princess, oval, and emerald.
The Gem Certification & Assurance Lab does provide cut grades for fancy shapes, and in the spring, expanded its new cut grade standard, 8X, to oval and princess-cut diamonds.
The lab said cushions would be next.
Related stories will be right here …
After piloting the program with a small group of clients, the lab said it will now add the service at all 20 of its laboratories worldwide for the following nine shapes: pear, oval, marquise, princess, heart, emerald, square emerald, square cushion modified brilliant, and cut-cornered square modified brilliant.
It will be optional for manufacturers for a six-month period.
“For many decades, carat, color, and clarity were the main points of emphasis with consumers,” IGI CEO Roland Lorie said.
“In recent years we have seen increasing attention drawn to cut, first with rounds and now with fancies. IGI has proactively responded to the growing demand for this assessment, in the interest of better serving buyers and sellers alike.”
The lab said while light behavior in round diamonds can be predicted using measurements, cut grades for fancy shapes are less common due to more “underlying complexity.”
The Gemological Institute of America currently doesn’t issue cut grades for fancy shapes but Al Gilbertson, GIA research associate and diamond cut expert, told National Jeweler, “Research into a scientific, standards-based cut grading system for fancy shape diamonds is a very active pursuit at GIA.”
AGS Laboratories does cut grades for three fancy shapes: princess, oval, and emerald.
The Gem Certification & Assurance Lab does provide cut grades for fancy shapes, and in the spring, expanded its new cut grade standard, 8X, to oval and princess-cut diamonds.
The lab said cushions would be next.
For its fancy shape cut grade, IGI said it has developed a four-step system combining proportions requirements with visual assessments; it is explained in a video on the lab’s website.
According to the video, the first step is traditional assessment of polish and symmetry followed by proportions qualification, with IGI noting it will provide manufacturers with “Guidelines for Excellent,” detailing the fancy shape parameters observed to create the most beautiful diamonds.
The third step is what IGI described as “additional requirements” that are shape specific, while the fourth and final step is light return grading.
Because of the optical variety in the various fancy shapes, IGI said the cut grade will not be an assessment of fire or scintillation but instead “fundamental light behavior”—how much light the diamond returns when compared with other diamonds of the same shape.
IGI Laboratory Director Benoit Scheyvaerts said: “We use proportions ranges to identify candidates for the Excellent grade, but our gemologists are now evaluating light return, in addition to polish and symmetry.
“Given the wide optical variety of fancy shapes, this is not a dispersion or scintillation analysis. It is a basic assessment of overall light return versus darkness.”
More on Grading
The Latest
FinancialsNov 26, 2025
Movado CEO Talks Tariffs, Growing Interest in Accessible Luxury WatchesDuring its Q3 call, CEO Efraim Grinberg discussed the deal to lower tariffs on Swiss-made watches, watch market trends, and more.
TrendsNov 26, 2025
Piece of the Week: Rosior’s Pumpkin RingRosior’s high jewelry cocktail ring with orange sapphires and green diamonds is the perfect Thanksgiving accessory.
IndependentsNov 26, 2025
Greenwich St. Jewelers Launches Colorful Holiday CampaignThe “Embrace Your True Colors” campaign features jewels with a vibrant color palette and poetry by Grammy-nominated artist Aja Monet.
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow TodayHow Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.
MajorsNov 26, 2025
Serafino Consoli Names New VP of Sales, Brand Development for the AmericasLuxury veteran Alejandro Cuellar has stepped into the role at the Italian fine jewelry brand.
Weekly QuizNov 20, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Events & AwardsNov 26, 2025
Grandview Klein Presents 4 Scholarships in NamibiaThe company gave awards to four students at the Namibia University of Science & Technology, including one who is a Grandview Klein employee.
IndependentsNov 25, 2025
Pearl Stringer Margaret Hoisik DiesShe is remembered as an artist who loved her craft and was devoted to her faith, her friends, and her family.
Brought to you by
Roseco Releases New Full-Line CatalogRoseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.
SourcingNov 25, 2025
Finestar Opens Diamond Manufacturing Facility in JohannesburgIt joins the company’s other manufacturing facilities globally, including in India, Botswana, and Namibia.
TrendsNov 25, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Polka DotsThe polka dot pattern transcends time and has re-emerged as a trend in jewelry through round-shaped gemstones.
CrimeNov 25, 2025
Former Arizona AG Official Charged With Trafficking Stolen JewelryVanessa Hickman, 49, allegedly sold a diamond bracelet that was mistakenly sent to her home.
Events & AwardsNov 25, 2025
GIA Awards Susan Jacques With Its Highest HonorGIA’s former president and CEO was presented with the Richard T. Liddicoat Award for Distinguished Achievement.
Recorded WebinarsNov 24, 2025
Watch: Top Tips for Social Media EtiquetteSocial media experts spoke about protecting brand reputation through behaving mindfully online.
WatchesNov 24, 2025
Breitling Reveals Plans for Gallet, Universal GenèveIn 2026, the three will come together as “House of Brands,” with Gallet sold in Breitling stores and Universal Genève sold separately.
CollectionsNov 24, 2025
Muse Debuts a Wicked 'Have a Heart x Cynthia Erivo' SequelThe second drop, which includes more Elphaba-inspired pieces from additional designers, will continue to benefit nonprofit Dreams of Hope.
IndependentsNov 24, 2025
J.R. Dunn Jewelers Names New PresidentSecond-generation jeweler Sean Dunn has taken on the role.
MajorsNov 21, 2025
Natural Diamond Council Names New CEOAmber Pepper’s main focus will be on digital innovation and engaging younger consumers.
SourcingNov 21, 2025
De Beers’ Branded, Traceable Diamonds Roll Out to 19 Retailers Called “Origin by De Beers Group,” the loose, polished diamonds are being sold in a total of 30 stores in the United States and Canada.
CollectionsNov 21, 2025
Piece of the Week: Melissa Kaye’s ‘Rocky Infinity’ NecklaceThe lariat necklace features a 4.88-carat oval-cut Zambian emerald in 18-karat yellow gold.
AuctionsNov 20, 2025
Vanderbilt Jewels Shine at Phillips Sale, Pink Diamond WithdrawnA 43-carat sapphire brooch from the Vanderbilt collection was the top lot of the Geneva sale.
CollectionsNov 20, 2025
Rebecca Rau Jewels Debuts With ‘Then & Now’ CollectionRau is a fourth-generation art and antique dealer from M.S. Rau gallery whose first jewelry collection merges artifacts with modern design.
Policies & IssuesNov 20, 2025
RJC Names New Executive DirectorFormer De Beers sustainability leader Purvi Shah will take over the role in February 2026.
WatchesNov 20, 2025
LVMH Takes Minority Stake in Citizen Group-Owned Movement Maker La Joux-Perret is based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, and makes solar quartz as well as mechanical watch movements.
CollectionsNov 19, 2025
Larkspur & Hawk Celebrates 25 Years With Helena Bonham Carter CampaignThe British actress and her daughter modeled pieces from the brand’s new “Palette” capsule for its “Once Upon a Time” holiday campaign.
TechnologyNov 19, 2025
Google Has a New Form for Reporting ‘Review Bombing’ Attacks Plus, the tech giant shares the steps retailers should take if they believe they’re a victim of a review extortion scam.
IndependentsNov 19, 2025
Houston Jeweler Keith Shaftel Retires, Next Generation Steps In Danny and Gaby Shaftel are now Shaftel Diamonds’ CEO and chief operating officer, respectively.
TrendsNov 19, 2025
Midas Chain Releases 2025 Holiday Style GuideThe jewelry manufacturer’s seasonal offering features its new “Melodie” bangles, as well as mini stud earrings and layering pieces.
