GradingAug 24, 2022
IGI Becomes Valuation Partner for LuxusGradingSep 07, 2022
IGI Now Providing Cut Grades for Fancy Shapes
The lab said more attention is being paid to a diamond’s cut, and that interest extends beyond round brilliants.
The International Gemological Institute just introduced cut grades for fancy-shaped diamonds, saying it has created a four-step system combining proportions requirements with visual assessment.
Antwerp—The International Gemological Institute announced last week it has added cut grade to its reports for loose fancy-shaped diamonds, a change that comes at time when consumer interest in both grading reports and fancy shapes is growing.
After piloting the program with a small group of clients, the lab said it will now add the service at all 20 of its laboratories worldwide for the following nine shapes: pear, oval, marquise, princess, heart, emerald, square emerald, square cushion modified brilliant, and cut-cornered square modified brilliant.
It will be optional for manufacturers for a six-month period.
“For many decades, carat, color, and clarity were the main points of emphasis with consumers,” IGI CEO Roland Lorie said.
“In recent years we have seen increasing attention drawn to cut, first with rounds and now with fancies. IGI has proactively responded to the growing demand for this assessment, in the interest of better serving buyers and sellers alike.”
The lab said while light behavior in round diamonds can be predicted using measurements, cut grades for fancy shapes are less common due to more “underlying complexity.”
The Gemological Institute of America currently doesn’t issue cut grades for fancy shapes but Al Gilbertson, GIA research associate and diamond cut expert, told National Jeweler, “Research into a scientific, standards-based cut grading system for fancy shape diamonds is a very active pursuit at GIA.”
AGS Laboratories does cut grades for three fancy shapes: princess, oval, and emerald.
The Gem Certification & Assurance Lab does provide cut grades for fancy shapes, and in the spring, expanded its new cut grade standard, 8X, to oval and princess-cut diamonds.
The lab said cushions would be next.
Related stories will be right here …
After piloting the program with a small group of clients, the lab said it will now add the service at all 20 of its laboratories worldwide for the following nine shapes: pear, oval, marquise, princess, heart, emerald, square emerald, square cushion modified brilliant, and cut-cornered square modified brilliant.
It will be optional for manufacturers for a six-month period.
“For many decades, carat, color, and clarity were the main points of emphasis with consumers,” IGI CEO Roland Lorie said.
“In recent years we have seen increasing attention drawn to cut, first with rounds and now with fancies. IGI has proactively responded to the growing demand for this assessment, in the interest of better serving buyers and sellers alike.”
The lab said while light behavior in round diamonds can be predicted using measurements, cut grades for fancy shapes are less common due to more “underlying complexity.”
The Gemological Institute of America currently doesn’t issue cut grades for fancy shapes but Al Gilbertson, GIA research associate and diamond cut expert, told National Jeweler, “Research into a scientific, standards-based cut grading system for fancy shape diamonds is a very active pursuit at GIA.”
AGS Laboratories does cut grades for three fancy shapes: princess, oval, and emerald.
The Gem Certification & Assurance Lab does provide cut grades for fancy shapes, and in the spring, expanded its new cut grade standard, 8X, to oval and princess-cut diamonds.
The lab said cushions would be next.
For its fancy shape cut grade, IGI said it has developed a four-step system combining proportions requirements with visual assessments; it is explained in a video on the lab’s website.
According to the video, the first step is traditional assessment of polish and symmetry followed by proportions qualification, with IGI noting it will provide manufacturers with “Guidelines for Excellent,” detailing the fancy shape parameters observed to create the most beautiful diamonds.
The third step is what IGI described as “additional requirements” that are shape specific, while the fourth and final step is light return grading.
Because of the optical variety in the various fancy shapes, IGI said the cut grade will not be an assessment of fire or scintillation but instead “fundamental light behavior”—how much light the diamond returns when compared with other diamonds of the same shape.
IGI Laboratory Director Benoit Scheyvaerts said: “We use proportions ranges to identify candidates for the Excellent grade, but our gemologists are now evaluating light return, in addition to polish and symmetry.
“Given the wide optical variety of fancy shapes, this is not a dispersion or scintillation analysis. It is a basic assessment of overall light return versus darkness.”
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
More on Grading
The Latest
MajorsMar 13, 2025
Tanishq Opens 2 New Stores in the U.S.The Indian jewelry brand recently opened stores in Atlanta and Seattle.
FinancialsMar 13, 2025
Brilliant Earth’s 2024 Sales Struggled Amid Engagement RecoveryCEO Beth Gerstein shared its most popular price points, what’s trending in non-bridal fine jewelry, and its holiday performance.
CollectionsMar 13, 2025
Chopard Unveils High Jewelry Collection Created From 6,225-Carat Emerald The 15 pieces were crafted from the “Insofu” emerald, discovered in Zambia in 2010.
Brought to you by
Watch: GIA Field Gemology at the One-Hundredth Expedition: A Look Back and to the FutureSupplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA
MajorsMar 13, 2025
Jewelers Mutual Names New CFO, TreasurerChris Anderson is joining the insurance provider as the new chief financial officer and treasurer.
Weekly QuizMar 06, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Lab-GrownMar 13, 2025
JA Offering Some ‘Counter Intelligence’ on Diamonds Jewelers of America is distributing a brochure for retailers to use when discussing the differences between natural and lab-grown diamonds.
SourcingMar 12, 2025
5 Factors That Will Impact the Diamond Industry in 2025The industry is changing as it grapples with new realities around distribution, supply, and the need for consistent, effective marketing.
Brought to you by
Natural Diamonds Should Mean MoreNatural diamonds mean more than lab-grown, but when every cut is ideal, they all look the same. Customers want more—Facets of Fire delivers.
SourcingMar 12, 2025
Q&A: New GJEPC Chairman Kirit BhansaliBhansali discusses the potential impact of U.S. tariffs, demand for diamonds by market, and the “cautious confidence” in India right now.
Lab-GrownMar 12, 2025
Beyond Jewelry: Possibilities in the Lab-Grown Diamond SectorAs lab-grown diamond brands pop up across India, academics are researching how to grow demand outside of the jewelry industry.
SourcingMar 12, 2025
Indian Leader, Retailer Among 2025 DDG Honorees Govind Dholakia and Tanishq will be recognized for their contributions to the industry at the Diamonds Do Good Awards in Las Vegas.
IndependentsMar 12, 2025
Marla Aaron Migrates to LondonThe New York City-based brand has opened its first U.K. location with a permanent shop-in-shop at Liberty in London.
AuctionsMar 12, 2025
A Medieval Bishop’s Sapphire Ring Is Going Up for SaleA metal detectorist discovered the ring that is believed to have belonged to a bishop in the late 12th to early 13th century.
Events & AwardsMar 12, 2025
JA New York Announces Education, Live Demo LineupsOrganizers looked to new partnerships and interactive experiences to enhance the spring show, set for March 16 to 18.
Events & AwardsMar 12, 2025
Bogolo Joy Kenewendo to Speak at Annual JVC LuncheonKenewendo, Botswana’s minister of minerals and energy, will discuss the future of diamonds.
CrimeMar 11, 2025
Man in Florida Swallows Allegedly Stolen Tiffany & Co. Jewelry The suspect allegedly stole almost $800,000 worth of diamond jewelry from a store in Orlando and then swallowed it during a traffic stop.
ColumnistsMar 11, 2025
Creative Connecting: How to Pose on the Red CarpetAhead of the Gem Awards on Friday, Jen Cullen Williams and Duvall O’Steen share pro tips for taking the best photos.
CollectionsMar 11, 2025
Marco Bicego Celebrates 25 Years With Collection, CampaignFounded in 2000, Marco Bicego is commemorating its milestone anniversary with a “25 Best” collection and campaigns honoring its heritage.
TechnologyMar 11, 2025
Hill & Co. Launches New B2B Buyer DatabaseThose attending the company’s upcoming Zoom workshop will receive early access to “The List,” its new resource for finding buyers.
Events & AwardsMar 11, 2025
JSA to Honor GIA Employee at Annual LuncheonThe organization will present an award to Amy-Elise Signeavsky, law enforcement and diamond recovery manager at GIA.
MajorsMar 10, 2025
Terry Chandler to Retire After 24 Years as Head of DCA Chandler started his jewelry career at Michelson Jewelers, joining the Diamond Council of America as president and CEO in 2001.
CollectionsMar 10, 2025
MaeVona Co-Founder Debuts 3D-Printed ‘Tùsaire’ CollectionScottish American designer Maeve Gillies collaborated with Platinum Guild International on jewelry created by direct metal 3D printing.
Events & AwardsMar 10, 2025
The Jewelry Symposium Announces 2025 Scholarship WinnersAhead of its trade show in May, TJS awarded free registration and accommodations to five up-and-coming jewelry industry professionals.
Events & AwardsMar 10, 2025
These Designers, Journalists, and Retailers Are Up for a Gem Award The 2025 Gem Awards are set to take place Friday at Cipriani 42nd Street in New York City.
MajorsMar 07, 2025
Jane Fonda, Mariska Hargitay Star in Pomellato’s IWD CampaignThe annual star-studded campaign for International Women’s Day encourages collective action against domestic violence.
CollectionsMar 07, 2025
Piece of the Week: Yeprem’s ‘Golden Strada’ NecklaceThe statement piece is seen in Yeprem’s new “You Play the Game” campaign, created for International Women’s Day.
MajorsMar 07, 2025
Borsheims Names New Senior Security and Facilities ManagerLongtime employee Kyle Slosson has been promoted to the role.
