Auctions

Sotheby’s to Highlight Top Black Jewelry Design Talent in Fall Sale

AuctionsAug 11, 2021

Sotheby’s to Highlight Top Black Jewelry Design Talent in Fall Sale

“Brilliant & Black: A Jewelry Renaissance” will feature works from 20-plus jewelry designers from the 1950s to present day.

20210811_SothebysBrilliantBlack-VanLeles.jpg
Pictured are the “Enchanted Garden Earrings” from fine jewelry brand Vanleles. They are crafted in titanium and rose gold with diamonds and rubies, priced at $108,270. Works from Vanleles will be featured at Sotheby’s upcoming selling exhibition: “Brilliant & Black: A Jewelry Renaissance.”
New York—Jewelry editor and author Melanie Grant asserts that just as Black talents like James Baldwin, Gordon Parks, and Harry Belafonte began their rise to creative recognition a century ago in post-World War I America, so now are Black jewelry designers ascending to cultural prominence.

She makes the case for it this fall at the selling exhibition she’s curated in partnership with Sotheby’s, called “Brilliant & Black: A Jewelry Renaissance.”

The sale will feature roughly 60 pieces from more than 20 leading Black jewelry designers, from the 1950s to present day.

20210811_SothebysBrilliantBlack-ThelmaWest.jpg
Thelma West “Rebel Black Ring” featuring a 5.01-carat pear-shaped, D-color diamond; $400,000. (Image courtesy of Sotheby’s)

Designers like Art Smith and Winifred Mason Chenet represent the jewelry industry’s pioneering Black talents.

Their work will be featured alongside contemporary creatives: Harwell Godfrey, Jacqueline Rabun, Johnny Nelson, Lorraine West, Rashid Johnson, Thelma West, Vanleles, Castro NYC, Almasika, Marei Fine Jewelry, Mateo New York, Matturi Fine Jewellery, Melanie Eddy Jewellery, Sheryl Jones Jewels, Ten Thousand Things, Lola Fenhirst, Jariet Oloyé, Maggi Simpkins, and Shola Branson.

20210811_SothebysBrilliantBlack-RashidJohnson.jpg
Rashid Johnson x LizWorks 9-karat gold cuff from “Anxious Men,” featuring rhodium engraving, red enamel, and five rubies weighing total 0.3 carats; edition of 15; $18,500. (Image courtesy of Sotheby’s)

Grant has been a journalist for more than 20 years, currently working at The Economist as luxury editor of sister publication 1843 Magazine.

Her book “Coveted: Art and Innovation in High Jewelry” was released last year from Phaidon.

In her foreword to the “Brilliant & Black: A Jewelry Renaissance” exhibition, she writes that a societal shift in the wake of 2020’s Black Lives Matter protests have transformed the longstanding tradition of Africa-as-subject-matter to designers of African descent expressing their own experiences.

20210811_SothebysBrilliantBlack-Matturi.jpg
Matturi “Nomoli Totem Mis-match” earrings in 18-karat yellow gold with 1.69 carats of brilliant-cut diamonds, emeralds, and South Sea pearls; $12,873. (Image courtesy of Sotheby’s)

Grant explained, “This show represents a shift in thinking from ‘African inspired’ to Black talent being the inspiration. I’ve loved working with Frank [Everett], Sotheby’s, as well as the designers who have surpassed all our expectations. I think we’ll look back at this moment as a game changer, amplifying the often overlooked and sometimes underappreciated talents and stories of black jewelry designers.”

Everett, Sotheby’s director of jewelry, added, “It’s been an honor to collaborate with Melanie, whose knowledge and passion for jewelry design is only superseded by her appreciation for Black artistry. Together, we’ve gathered 21 remarkable designers—some of whom have already enjoyed success and others who are emerging as major forces in the jewelry world—and have asked them to showcase two or three of their captivating designs.”

20210811_SothebysBrilliantBlack-HarwellGodfrey.jpg
Harwell Godfrey’s “Cleopatra’s Vault Pendant and Snake Foundation Chain” in 18-karat yellow gold with Muzo emeralds, black and white onyx, and white diamonds; $115,050. (Image courtesy of Sotheby’s)

He continued, “Spanning from the 1950s to today, these artisan’s creations—many of which have been newly created for the occasion—showcase a range of styles and materials, illuminating the diverse sources of inspiration. Sotheby’s is enormously proud to be involved in such a momentous project and to highlight the compelling stories of the individual designers. We are delighted that this first exhibition will contribute to revealing their talents and contributions to the art of jewelry to a wider audience.”

20210811_SothebysBrilliantBlack-Almasika.jpg
Almasika “Universum Bangle” in 18-karat yellow gold with tsavorite; $24,000. (Image courtesy of Sotheby’s)

“Brilliant & Black: A Jewelry Renaissance” will be on view at Sotheby’s New York from Sept. 17-26. All pieces will be available for purchase in-person or online through Sotheby’s Buy Now online marketplace from Sept. 17 to Oct. 10. 

 Related stories will be right here …

The Latest

Daymond John
Events & AwardsApr 18, 2025
Daymond John to Give Keynote at JCK Las Vegas

The entrepreneur and “Shark Tank” star will share his top tips for success.

Dukachi Easter Bread Pendant
CollectionsApr 18, 2025
Piece of the Week: Dukachi’s ‘Easter Bread’ Pendant

The Ukrainian brand’s new pendant is modeled after a traditional paska, a pastry often baked for Easter in Eastern European cultures.

Bremer Jewelry
IndependentsApr 18, 2025
Bremer Jewelry to Reveal Renovated Store

The jeweler has announced a grand reopening for its recently remodeled location in Peoria, Illinois.

gia-topimage 0325.jpg
Brought to you by
A Brilliant Future Is Here

Get online education from GIA experts.

Tiffany & Co. Strong Like Mom campaign
MajorsApr 18, 2025
Tiffany & Co. Employees Star in Mother’s Day Campaign

The “Strong Like Mom” campaign features moms who work at Tiffany & Co. and their children.

Weekly QuizApr 18, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Athena Calderone x John Hardy Collection
CollectionsApr 17, 2025
John Hardy, Athena Calderone Partner on Art Deco Decor-Inspired Collection

Interior designer Athena Calderone looked to decor from the 1920s and 1930s when crafting her first fine jewelry collection.

Movado Connect 2.0 watches
FinancialsApr 17, 2025
Movado Group to Increase Prices to Offset Tariffs Impact

During a call about its full-year results, CEO Efraim Grinberg discussed how the company is approaching the uncertainty surrounding tariffs.

bench jeweler 1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
The Heart of the Industry: Giving Bench Jewelers the Recognition They Deserve

Bench jewelers spend years honing their skills, Jewelers of America’s Certification validates their talents.

Natural Diamond Council Diamond Learning Center Graphic
Lab-GrownApr 17, 2025
NDC Launches Its Diamond Learning Center

The free program provides educational content for jewelry salespeople and enthusiasts to learn or refresh their diamond knowledge.

Jewelers of America logo
Policies & IssuesApr 17, 2025
Jewelers of America Requests Tariffs Testimonials from Members

The feedback will be used to prepare other jewelers for the challenges ahead, the organization said.

Technology Therapy Group logo
TechnologyApr 17, 2025
Technology Therapy Group Expands AI Training for Jewelry Retailers

The online sessions are designed to teach jewelers to use AI tools like ChatGPT and Claude to grow their business.

Catbird Chicago
IndependentsApr 16, 2025
Catbird Expands to Chicago

The opening marks the jewelry retailer’s first location in the Midwest.

Foundrae United in Love Campaign
CollectionsApr 16, 2025
Foundrae’s First Commitment Jewelry Collection Unites Through Love

The “United in Love” collection offers tangible mementos of hearts entwined with traditional and non-traditional commitment heirlooms.

Robert and Rose-Marie Goodman outside Robert Goodman Jewelers
IndependentsApr 16, 2025
Indiana Jeweler to Host Black Jewelry Designer Pop-Up

Robert Goodman Jewelers will hold a “Black Jewelry Designers and Makers” event on April 27.

Womens Jewelry Association WJA logo
MajorsApr 16, 2025
WJA Announces Board Members, New Chicago Chapter President

The announcements follow a tumultuous start to 2025 for WJA, which saw a wave of resignations following controversial statements about DEI.

Stock image of shipping containers
EditorsApr 15, 2025
Tariffs: What We Know Right Now

Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff answers questions about how the new taxes levied on countries like India and China will impact the industry.

Botswana Minster of Minerals and Energy Bogolo Joy Kenewendo
EditorsApr 15, 2025
Q&A: Bogolo Joy Kenewendo on Making Deals, Marketing Diamonds

Kenewendo, Botswana’s minster of minerals and energy, discusses closing the deal with De Beers and the work that was missed along the way.

Bulgari Eden the Garden of Wonders ad
FinancialsApr 15, 2025
LVMH’s Q1 Sales Slip 2 Percent

LVMH CFO Cécile Cabanis also discussed the effects of tariffs so far.

Screenshot from new Jon Hamm series on Apple TV+, Your Friends and Neighbors
CrimeApr 15, 2025
Jon Hamm Plays a Jewel Thief on Apple TV+

The “Mad Men” and “The Morning Show” star steals jewelry, art, and handbags from his wealthy neighbors in “Your Friends & Neighbors.”

Kalpesh Jhaveri
SourcingApr 15, 2025
Diamond Club West Coast Names 2025 Board

The organization has reelected Kalpesh Jhaveri as president.

Two Movado Connect 2.0 watches
FinancialsApr 14, 2025
Movado to Restate Years of Financials Due to ‘Misconduct’ in Dubai

An investigation found that the former managing director of Movado’s Dubai branch overstated and prematurely recorded sales.

Sauer Balance Earrings in Ma Campaign
CollectionsApr 14, 2025
Sauer Embraces Emptiness Through ‘Ma’ Collection

The collection pays tribute to the Japanese philosophy of Ma, studying balance, stillness, and the interplay between presence and absence.

Mari Lous Fine Jewelry
IndependentsApr 14, 2025
Illinois Jeweler Closing After 45 Years

Mari Lou’s Fine Jewelry in Orland Park, a suburb of Chicago, is closing its doors.

GIA logo
GradingApr 14, 2025
GIA Expands Overseas Services as Tariffs Kick In

GIA’s labs in Dubai and Hong Kong are now accepting larger diamonds in light of the “logistical challenges” presented by the new tariffs.

My Next Question webinar graphic
Recorded WebinarsApr 11, 2025
Watch: Top Tips for Saving Time With AI

Two experts share how artificial intelligence tools can help retailers run a more efficient business.

Kentaro Nishimura
SourcingApr 11, 2025
Mikimoto Names New President, CEO for U.S. Division

Kentaro Nishimura, who has been with the pearl company since 1997, has been promoted to president and CEO of Mikimoto America.

America Telling Time: 150 Years of Bulova
WatchesApr 11, 2025
Bulova Documentary Now on Amazon Prime

“America Telling Time: 150 Years of Bulova” explores the storied history of the American watchmaker.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy