Events & Awards

From Tucson: Hot Stones and a Changing Market

Events & AwardsFeb 11, 2019

From Tucson: Hot Stones and a Changing Market

At AGTA GemFair, the Gemworld International team addressed the health of the global market and which gemstones are resonating with consumers right now.

20190211_Nomads-spinel.jpg
At a session during AGTA GemFair Tucson, Gemworld International said more consumers are buying by color rather than stone type, including a continued popularity in pinks and reds. Pictured here is a 22-carat pink spinel from Gems by Nomads.

Tucson, Ariz.—Every year in Tucson during the gem shows, Gemworld International gives an update on market trends and other pertinent topics in the gem sector.

This year, President Richard Drucker and Vice President Stuart Robertson addressed the health of the global market and which stones are resonating with consumers right now.

Here are six points they covered during their session at the AGTA GemFair jewelry trade show.

1. The U.S. market is changing.

Robertson said price points in the market have been lower of late as the American wealth structure has changed.

The U.S. is still the main market for the gem world, but more high-quality pieces are selling overseas now. The condensing of the market, due in large part to the internet, and the increased competition it has bred has also been a driver for this change, he added.

There have been record prices in certain categories, especially at auction, which is “skewing the perception of the overall market.” These strong sales represent the top end of the market only, he said.

2. The “new” industry is doing a good job telling the stories behind the gems.

Young members of the industry understand the importance of gem sourcing and of bringing the story in front of the consumer, Robertson said.

Today’s designers have little interest in memo because that’s not the way they’re doing business—they’re buying small amounts and operating out of small galleries or studios, focusing more on jewelry as art and paying for things as they go.

RELATED CONTENT: The Next Generation: David Bindra of B & B Fine Gems
“Companies that are operating mostly on memo goods have really no vested interest in understanding the story or understanding sourcing in this industry because they have no connection to it. Their money is not on the line; they have other people’s money on the line. That’s an interesting contrast that we’ve been able to note here,” he said.

3. There is stricter enforcement of mineral industry regulations in important source countries.

The increased control of gem material by source countries is driven by a need to create more beneficiation for the local communities, Robertson said, noting that some of these countries are starting to realize the importance and value of their natural resources.

Many are now evaluating their industries, and programs to add beneficiation are spreading across countries like Burma, Tanzania and Ethiopia.

This will ultimately
result in higher prices for the trade but “for probably the right reasons,” he said.

4. The sector is seeing the two-tier market continue.

The market for high-end, natural goods is strong because supply is tight, especially in the case of ruby, emerald, sapphire and Paraiba tourmaline.

The lower end—meaning both lower-quality goods as well as less expensive gemstones, like blue topaz and citrine—is overproduced and prices are soft, Robertson said, noting that it is losing market share to unique stones and lesser-known gems that are about the same price.

The middle portion of the market, traditionally the bread-and-butter of the industry, has been “disappointing” the last few years. It was moving upward but then went flat last year and is fairly weak again.

5. Here’s what’s happening with the “big three.”

In Burma, ruby production has been strong again as miners aim to produce enough material before the country’s expected regulations kick in.

Supply in East Africa is very strong, with the main source continuing to be Mozambique, where large-scale production is displacing much of the artisanal mining.

For now, the ruby market is stable, Robertson said, but noted that demand and prices are slightly lower for heated stones.

And whereas ruby traditionally has occupied about 20 of the market share that sapphire does, there’s been so much production in recent years that it’s nearly on par with sapphire now, Robertson said.

This will be important for pricing of rubies going forward, especially as the question remains of whether demand will be there to support such strong supply.

“I think that does have some implications for the pricing going forward because the reality is there’s really nothing to suggest that the appetite for the material will equal that for sapphire. Long-term we do expect prices to soften, especially on heated material.”

Sapphires, meanwhile, are still the top-selling gem in the world market, especially in the West. The blue and blue-green/teal sapphires continue to be popular.

There’s a decent supply of sapphire as Asian and African sources continue producing. Pricing for natural stones have gone up, especially the higher-grade material, and are likely to continue to rise as source countries tighten control.

While demand for emeralds was better than expected in 2018, that excitement is starting to wane, Robertson said—treatment issues for emeralds are the most confusing among the big three and have led to an ongoing debate in the trade about how they are disclosed and communicated on lab reports.
RELATED CONTENT: State of the Colored Gemstones Market—All Together Now?
Colombian emeralds remain the benchmark for pricing of all emeralds, he said.

Ethiopian emerald production has slowed as the government assesses its resources, while Zambian production is “OK” and production from Brazil is small.

6. Here are the market’s “must-haves.”

Pink- and red-colored gems continue to be in demand, with consumers increasingly purchasing by color rather than gem varietal, Drucker said. This has boosted demand for stones like morganite, spinel and tourmaline.

He added that blues are always reliable sellers and gemstones in peach/soft orange shades are doing well. However, the key for the market is to be different when it comes to gems, offering sapphire slices or other unusual materials.

Garnets are seeing a resurgence in popularity—with rhodolite making a splash with designers, and spessartite and tsavorite among the top-selling gems in their color categories—as are other shades of zoisite, building off the high demand for tanzanite.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

GIA iD100® Technology
Supplier BulletinJul 03, 2025
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

Sponsored by the Gemological Institute of America

Madison Keys in Brilliant Earth campaign
MajorsJul 03, 2025
Brilliant Earth Names Tennis Star Madison Keys as Its New Ambassador

The 2025 Australian Open champion is the jewelry brand’s first athlete ambassador.

Muse Nordstrom shop-in-shop
MajorsJul 03, 2025
Muse Sets Up Shop in Nordstrom’s New Jewelry Hall

The West Village jewelry boutique’s new shop-in-shop is the cornerstone of Nordstrom’s revamped jewelry hall.

an instructor and a student in a bench jewelry classroom
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

Shree Ramkrishna Exports
SourcingJul 03, 2025
SRK Announces Its Natural Diamonds Are Now Carbon-Negative

This past year, the manufacturer said it recorded below-zero emissions per carat of natural diamond.

Weekly QuizJul 02, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Yeprem Golden Strada Statement Necklace
CollectionsJul 03, 2025
Piece of the Week: A Firework of Diamonds From Yeprem

The brand’s “Golden Strada” statement necklace features round, marquise, and pear diamonds that sparkle like Fourth of July fireworks.

Stock image of police cars with their lights on
CrimeJul 03, 2025
JSA Shares Holiday Weekend Security Tips Amid Spike in Burglaries

JSA’s Scott Guginsky provided a list of nine security measures jewelers should observe while locking up for the long weekend.

Jewelers of America logo with meetup, State of the Majors, giveaway and massages
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America is Headed to Las Vegas for JCK 2025

The countdown is on for the JCK Las Vegas Show and JA is pulling out all the stops.

Exterior and entryway of Boucheron’s Los Angeles Flagship
MajorsJul 02, 2025
Boucheron Looks to LA for First West Coast Flagship

Located on Rodeo Drive, the store’s design was inspired by Hollywood and Los Angeles culture.

Exterior of Marco Bicego Milan Flagship
MajorsJul 02, 2025
Marco Bicego Opens Milan Flagship

The new location continues the brand’s celebration of its 25th anniversary.

Chrono24 Time Is Our Thing campaign image
WatchesJul 02, 2025
Chrono24 Revamps Brand, Launches New Campaign

The online watch marketplace’s “Time Is Our Thing” campaign highlights the importance of time.

Bernadette Mack
SourcingJul 02, 2025
Bernadette Mack Joins Gem Legacy as Executive Director

She will oversee strategic planning, fundraising, industry partnerships, and the launch of the Gem Legacy Campus in Tanzania.

Counterfeit Pandora jewelry in bags and boxes
CrimeJul 02, 2025
Pandora, Amazon Partner to Uncover Counterfeit Jewelry Network

Working with Amazon’s Counterfeit Crimes Unit and law enforcement, Pandora helped to shut down a large-scale counterfeit network in China.

Cast Issa Rae
MajorsJul 01, 2025
Cast Closes Business, Plans for Relaunch

The jewelry company has closed its three California brick-and-mortar stores, as well as its online shop, for now.

Elie Hannoush
IndependentsJul 01, 2025
Elie Hannoush, Founder of Hannoush Jewelers, Dies at 73

He is remembered for his successful entrepreneurship, generosity, and dedication to his family.

Claire’s store
MajorsJul 01, 2025
Claire’s Is Looking for a Buyer, Report Says

The jewelry store chain has reportedly been struggling with costs related to tariffs as well as tough retail competition.

Mindi Mond Spike Earrings
TrendsJul 01, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Red Hot Rubies

Welcome warm summer days with red hot rubies perfectly chosen as July’s birthstone.

The Story of Everything Campaign, Toadstool Mushroom and Cosmic Egg
CollectionsJun 30, 2025
State Property’s New Jewelry Tells ‘The Story of Everything’

Co-founders Afzal Imram and Lin Ruiyin brought their son’s story of a cosmic egg, toadstool, and railroad to life in their new collection.

Smart Age Solutions CEO Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsJun 30, 2025
The Smart Lab: Why Q3 Is the Secret Weapon For Holiday Jewelry Sales

The best time to prepare for the holiday season is right now, according to columnist Emmanuel Raheb.

The Jewelry Book
IndependentsJun 30, 2025
Melanie Grant’s New Book Explores 200 Years of Jewelry

“The Jewelry Book” comes out this September.

Gemist
TechnologyJun 27, 2025
Gemist Raises $6M in Funding to Scale Jewelry Tech Platform

The company is focused on modernizing the custom jewelry buying experience with e-commerce tools like product visualization and 3D styling.

Jeff Preolo, David Stout, Levi Higgs, David Benavides
IndependentsJun 27, 2025
David Webb Announces New Hires, Promotions

Following its recent acquisition, the storied brand has updated its leadership team and regional managers.

Blake Graham and Jessica Kohoutek
Events & AwardsJun 27, 2025
AGS, GIA Announce Beatrice Shipley Scholarship Winner

AGS also named the recipient of its “Women in Leadership” scholarship.

Buddha Mama Monstera Ring
CollectionsJun 27, 2025
Piece of the Week: Buddha Mama’s ‘Monstera’ Wrap Ring

The 20-karat yellow gold and diamond wrap ring is modeled after the Monstera plants in the garden of the brand’s Miami villa.

Cashier handing Rocksbox bag to customer
MajorsJun 26, 2025
Why Rocksbox Is Opening Stores As Signet Jewelers Downsizes

Rocksbox President Allison Vigil shared the retailer’s expansion plans, and her thoughts on opening stores in malls.

Penny Ruston
IndependentsJun 26, 2025
Penny Ruston Dies at 80

The creator of the WJA Chicago chapter is remembered as a champion for women in the jewelry industry and a loving grandmother.

Stock image of woman shopping
SurveysJun 26, 2025
After Recovering in May, Consumer Confidence Dips in June

The decline was consistent across age groups and almost all income groups, with tariffs and inflation still top of mind.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy