Events & Awards

From Tucson: Hot Stones and a Changing Market

Events & AwardsFeb 11, 2019

From Tucson: Hot Stones and a Changing Market

At AGTA GemFair, the Gemworld International team addressed the health of the global market and which gemstones are resonating with consumers right now.

20190211_Nomads-spinel.jpg
At a session during AGTA GemFair Tucson, Gemworld International said more consumers are buying by color rather than stone type, including a continued popularity in pinks and reds. Pictured here is a 22-carat pink spinel from Gems by Nomads.

Tucson, Ariz.—Every year in Tucson during the gem shows, Gemworld International gives an update on market trends and other pertinent topics in the gem sector.

This year, President Richard Drucker and Vice President Stuart Robertson addressed the health of the global market and which stones are resonating with consumers right now.

Here are six points they covered during their session at the AGTA GemFair jewelry trade show.

1. The U.S. market is changing.

Robertson said price points in the market have been lower of late as the American wealth structure has changed.

The U.S. is still the main market for the gem world, but more high-quality pieces are selling overseas now. The condensing of the market, due in large part to the internet, and the increased competition it has bred has also been a driver for this change, he added.

There have been record prices in certain categories, especially at auction, which is “skewing the perception of the overall market.” These strong sales represent the top end of the market only, he said.

2. The “new” industry is doing a good job telling the stories behind the gems.

Young members of the industry understand the importance of gem sourcing and of bringing the story in front of the consumer, Robertson said.

Today’s designers have little interest in memo because that’s not the way they’re doing business—they’re buying small amounts and operating out of small galleries or studios, focusing more on jewelry as art and paying for things as they go.

RELATED CONTENT: The Next Generation: David Bindra of B & B Fine Gems
“Companies that are operating mostly on memo goods have really no vested interest in understanding the story or understanding sourcing in this industry because they have no connection to it. Their money is not on the line; they have other people’s money on the line. That’s an interesting contrast that we’ve been able to note here,” he said.

3. There is stricter enforcement of mineral industry regulations in important source countries.

The increased control of gem material by source countries is driven by a need to create more beneficiation for the local communities, Robertson said, noting that some of these countries are starting to realize the importance and value of their natural resources.

Many are now evaluating their industries, and programs to add beneficiation are spreading across countries like Burma, Tanzania and Ethiopia.

This will ultimately
result in higher prices for the trade but “for probably the right reasons,” he said.

4. The sector is seeing the two-tier market continue.

The market for high-end, natural goods is strong because supply is tight, especially in the case of ruby, emerald, sapphire and Paraiba tourmaline.

The lower end—meaning both lower-quality goods as well as less expensive gemstones, like blue topaz and citrine—is overproduced and prices are soft, Robertson said, noting that it is losing market share to unique stones and lesser-known gems that are about the same price.

The middle portion of the market, traditionally the bread-and-butter of the industry, has been “disappointing” the last few years. It was moving upward but then went flat last year and is fairly weak again.

5. Here’s what’s happening with the “big three.”

In Burma, ruby production has been strong again as miners aim to produce enough material before the country’s expected regulations kick in.

Supply in East Africa is very strong, with the main source continuing to be Mozambique, where large-scale production is displacing much of the artisanal mining.

For now, the ruby market is stable, Robertson said, but noted that demand and prices are slightly lower for heated stones.

And whereas ruby traditionally has occupied about 20 of the market share that sapphire does, there’s been so much production in recent years that it’s nearly on par with sapphire now, Robertson said.

This will be important for pricing of rubies going forward, especially as the question remains of whether demand will be there to support such strong supply.

“I think that does have some implications for the pricing going forward because the reality is there’s really nothing to suggest that the appetite for the material will equal that for sapphire. Long-term we do expect prices to soften, especially on heated material.”

Sapphires, meanwhile, are still the top-selling gem in the world market, especially in the West. The blue and blue-green/teal sapphires continue to be popular.

There’s a decent supply of sapphire as Asian and African sources continue producing. Pricing for natural stones have gone up, especially the higher-grade material, and are likely to continue to rise as source countries tighten control.

While demand for emeralds was better than expected in 2018, that excitement is starting to wane, Robertson said—treatment issues for emeralds are the most confusing among the big three and have led to an ongoing debate in the trade about how they are disclosed and communicated on lab reports.
RELATED CONTENT: State of the Colored Gemstones Market—All Together Now?
Colombian emeralds remain the benchmark for pricing of all emeralds, he said.

Ethiopian emerald production has slowed as the government assesses its resources, while Zambian production is “OK” and production from Brazil is small.

6. Here are the market’s “must-haves.”

Pink- and red-colored gems continue to be in demand, with consumers increasingly purchasing by color rather than gem varietal, Drucker said. This has boosted demand for stones like morganite, spinel and tourmaline.

He added that blues are always reliable sellers and gemstones in peach/soft orange shades are doing well. However, the key for the market is to be different when it comes to gems, offering sapphire slices or other unusual materials.

Garnets are seeing a resurgence in popularity—with rhodolite making a splash with designers, and spessartite and tsavorite among the top-selling gems in their color categories—as are other shades of zoisite, building off the high demand for tanzanite.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

The Retail Smiths founder and National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsMay 12, 2026
It’s Official: We’re Getting ‘Brain Rot’ From Watching Short-Form Videos

Peter Smith gives tips on leading meetings, developing marketing, and making trade show appointments in the age of short attention spans.

Jessica McCormack Medallion Capsule Collection Campaign
CollectionsMay 12, 2026
Jessica McCormack Debuts Antique Coin-Inspired Medallions for Summer

The 11-piece “Medallions” capsule collection features five motifs: a crying eye, a heart on fire, a spiral, a flower, and a swallow.

People shopping in a jewelry store
IndependentsMay 12, 2026
State of Retail: 6 Things Retailers Should Know About Consumers Today

From Gen Z’s view of luxury to “doom spending,” these are the six consumer trends to note this year.

1872x1052-NextGem-2026-National-Jeweler-Advertorial.jpg
Brought to you by
How Modern Training Is Becoming a Competitive Advantage for Jewelry Retailers

With the trade and customer trust in mind, GIA® developed NextGem™ – on-demand training designed specifically for retail.

Merle, Juanita, and Brent Staats of Staats Jewelers
IndependentsMay 11, 2026
Kansas Jeweler Closing After 70 Years

The owners of Staats Jewelers are heading into retirement.

Weekly QuizMay 07, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Former Macy’s CEO Jeffrey Gennette
TrendsMay 11, 2026
Former Macy’s CEO Joins Signet Jewelers Board

Jeffrey Gennette, who retired in 2024 after 41 years with Macy’s, is the newest member of the jewelry retailer’s board of directors.

Buddha Mama gold earrings hexagon emerald
TrendsMay 11, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Lucky May

May babies are lucky to have emeralds, a gemstone admired for centuries, as their birthstone, writes Amanda Gizzi.

Antique Jewelry & Watch Show
Brought to you by
Discover Timeless Treasures: A Showcase of Antique Jewelry & Timepieces in Las Vegas

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

Clientbook Logo
TechnologyMay 11, 2026
Clientbook’s New Tool Helps Jewelers Plan In-Store Events

The new module allows retailers to plan, promote, and measure the success of events from a single dashboard.

Pandora lab grown diamond necklace
Lab-GrownMay 08, 2026
NDC Publicly Criticizes Pandora Over ‘Misleading’ Natural Diamond Claims

NDC said in an open letter that Pandora’s statements about the carbon footprint of lab grown versus natural diamonds are inaccurate.

Ronnie VanderLinden and Feriel Zerouki
SourcingMay 08, 2026
Ronnie VanderLinden Takes Over as WDC President

The diamantaire and industry leader succeeds Feriel Zerouki and said he will focus on being a “champion” for natural diamonds.

Glenn Spiro Old Moghul Golconda Earrings
TrendsMay 08, 2026
Rihanna Chooses ‘Desert Diamonds’ for 2026 Met Gala

She wore our Piece of the Week, Glenn Spiro’s “Old Moghul Golconda” earrings, featuring fancy brown-yellow diamonds totaling 51.90 carats.

Brilliant Earth Jane Goodall olive branch necklace and earrings
FinancialsMay 07, 2026
Brilliant Earth Appeals to Higher-Income Shoppers in Q1

The jewelry retailer noted resilience among its higher-end customers while demand softened for its lower-priced offerings.

Kashmir sapphire ring
AuctionsMay 07, 2026
‘Spectacular’ Kashmir Sapphire Headlines Heritage Spring Jewelry Sale

Led by the 6.59-carat sapphire, the sale garnered $9.7 million, a record total for a Heritage jewelry auction.

Billy Welshoff
MajorsMay 07, 2026
Gannon & Scott Names New Regional Account Executive

In his new role, sales specialist Billy Welshoff will focus on the eastern United States.

José Gaztelu
WatchesMay 07, 2026
Chrono24 Names New CEO

José Gaztelu has been promoted to the role, which has been vacant since last year.

Jewelers of America Logo
Events & AwardsMay 07, 2026
JA Accepting Applications for 2026 Scholarship Program

It has also opened the application period for the Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship through June 30.

White and yellow rough diamonds from the Ekati Diamond Mine
SourcingMay 06, 2026
Canada’s Oldest Diamond Mine Faces Uncertain Future

The owner of the Ekati mine, which opened in 1998, has filed for insolvency protection amid the significant decline in diamond prices.

Pandora lab grown diamond rings
FinancialsMay 06, 2026
Pandora to Add Carbon Footprint Info to Lab-Grown Diamonds

The company announced the change alongside its Q1 results, which showed that the jewelry brand’s year is off to a shaky start.

Saks Fifth Avenue door sign
MajorsMay 06, 2026
Saks Global Begins Layoffs, Reorganization Plans Closer to Approval

The retailer will cut 16 percent of its corporate workforce as part of its plan to exit bankruptcy.

Heuer Monaco Le Mans
AuctionsMay 06, 2026
Steve McQueen’s Heuer Monaco Watch Heads to Sotheby's

Of the many examples used in the filming of “Le Mans,” this one is believed to have spent the most time on Steve McQueen’s wrist.

Met Gala 2026 Beyonce, Lisa Manobal, Hailey Bieber
EditorsMay 05, 2026
This Ohio Designer’s Jewelry Made It to the Met Gala

Megan Piccione dressed Lauren Wasser in layers of diamond jewelry, making her stand out in a crowd that included celebrities like Beyoncé.

Doug Hucker
SourcingMay 05, 2026
Doug Hucker Returns to His Roots

Following decades of association leadership, the “semi-retired” colored gemstone expert is turning his focus to gemstone education.

New York City FC winning the Philip F. Anschutz MLS Cup Trophy in 2021
Events & AwardsMay 05, 2026
AMNH to Showcase Famous Jewelry, Trophies in Sports History

The museum’s new exhibition will feature one of Jesse Owen’s Olympic medals, Yogi Berra’s crown, Super Bowl rings, and more.

Exhibitor at JIS
Events & AwardsMay 05, 2026
JIS Launches Brand Exposure Program

The new program provides access to media exposure and editorial opportunities for exhibitors and retailers.

Melanie Georgacopoulos Eclipse Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsMay 04, 2026
Melanie Georgacopoulos Turns Pearls Into Light for ‘Eclipse’ Collection

The “Eclipse” jewelry collection captures the fleeting moment where light and shadow align though onyx, diamonds, and freshwater pearls.

National Jeweler columnist Sherry Smith, partner at The Retail Smiths
ColumnistsMay 04, 2026
The Key Mindset for Better Trade Show Buying

Buying discipline at trade shows starts with clarity about your inventory levels, Smith writes.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy