Events & Awards

From Tucson: Hot Stones and a Changing Market

Events & AwardsFeb 11, 2019

From Tucson: Hot Stones and a Changing Market

At AGTA GemFair, the Gemworld International team addressed the health of the global market and which gemstones are resonating with consumers right now.

20190211_Nomads-spinel.jpg
At a session during AGTA GemFair Tucson, Gemworld International said more consumers are buying by color rather than stone type, including a continued popularity in pinks and reds. Pictured here is a 22-carat pink spinel from Gems by Nomads.

Tucson, Ariz.—Every year in Tucson during the gem shows, Gemworld International gives an update on market trends and other pertinent topics in the gem sector.

This year, President Richard Drucker and Vice President Stuart Robertson addressed the health of the global market and which stones are resonating with consumers right now.

Here are six points they covered during their session at the AGTA GemFair jewelry trade show.

1. The U.S. market is changing.

Robertson said price points in the market have been lower of late as the American wealth structure has changed.

The U.S. is still the main market for the gem world, but more high-quality pieces are selling overseas now. The condensing of the market, due in large part to the internet, and the increased competition it has bred has also been a driver for this change, he added.

There have been record prices in certain categories, especially at auction, which is “skewing the perception of the overall market.” These strong sales represent the top end of the market only, he said.

2. The “new” industry is doing a good job telling the stories behind the gems.

Young members of the industry understand the importance of gem sourcing and of bringing the story in front of the consumer, Robertson said.

Today’s designers have little interest in memo because that’s not the way they’re doing business—they’re buying small amounts and operating out of small galleries or studios, focusing more on jewelry as art and paying for things as they go.

RELATED CONTENT: The Next Generation: David Bindra of B & B Fine Gems
“Companies that are operating mostly on memo goods have really no vested interest in understanding the story or understanding sourcing in this industry because they have no connection to it. Their money is not on the line; they have other people’s money on the line. That’s an interesting contrast that we’ve been able to note here,” he said.

3. There is stricter enforcement of mineral industry regulations in important source countries.

The increased control of gem material by source countries is driven by a need to create more beneficiation for the local communities, Robertson said, noting that some of these countries are starting to realize the importance and value of their natural resources.

Many are now evaluating their industries, and programs to add beneficiation are spreading across countries like Burma, Tanzania and Ethiopia.

This will ultimately
result in higher prices for the trade but “for probably the right reasons,” he said.

4. The sector is seeing the two-tier market continue.

The market for high-end, natural goods is strong because supply is tight, especially in the case of ruby, emerald, sapphire and Paraiba tourmaline.

The lower end—meaning both lower-quality goods as well as less expensive gemstones, like blue topaz and citrine—is overproduced and prices are soft, Robertson said, noting that it is losing market share to unique stones and lesser-known gems that are about the same price.

The middle portion of the market, traditionally the bread-and-butter of the industry, has been “disappointing” the last few years. It was moving upward but then went flat last year and is fairly weak again.

5. Here’s what’s happening with the “big three.”

In Burma, ruby production has been strong again as miners aim to produce enough material before the country’s expected regulations kick in.

Supply in East Africa is very strong, with the main source continuing to be Mozambique, where large-scale production is displacing much of the artisanal mining.

For now, the ruby market is stable, Robertson said, but noted that demand and prices are slightly lower for heated stones.

And whereas ruby traditionally has occupied about 20 of the market share that sapphire does, there’s been so much production in recent years that it’s nearly on par with sapphire now, Robertson said.

This will be important for pricing of rubies going forward, especially as the question remains of whether demand will be there to support such strong supply.

“I think that does have some implications for the pricing going forward because the reality is there’s really nothing to suggest that the appetite for the material will equal that for sapphire. Long-term we do expect prices to soften, especially on heated material.”

Sapphires, meanwhile, are still the top-selling gem in the world market, especially in the West. The blue and blue-green/teal sapphires continue to be popular.

There’s a decent supply of sapphire as Asian and African sources continue producing. Pricing for natural stones have gone up, especially the higher-grade material, and are likely to continue to rise as source countries tighten control.

While demand for emeralds was better than expected in 2018, that excitement is starting to wane, Robertson said—treatment issues for emeralds are the most confusing among the big three and have led to an ongoing debate in the trade about how they are disclosed and communicated on lab reports.
RELATED CONTENT: State of the Colored Gemstones Market—All Together Now?
Colombian emeralds remain the benchmark for pricing of all emeralds, he said.

Ethiopian emerald production has slowed as the government assesses its resources, while Zambian production is “OK” and production from Brazil is small.

6. Here are the market’s “must-haves.”

Pink- and red-colored gems continue to be in demand, with consumers increasingly purchasing by color rather than gem varietal, Drucker said. This has boosted demand for stones like morganite, spinel and tourmaline.

He added that blues are always reliable sellers and gemstones in peach/soft orange shades are doing well. However, the key for the market is to be different when it comes to gems, offering sapphire slices or other unusual materials.

Garnets are seeing a resurgence in popularity—with rhodolite making a splash with designers, and spessartite and tsavorite among the top-selling gems in their color categories—as are other shades of zoisite, building off the high demand for tanzanite.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Set of four Patek Philippe “Star Caliber 2000” pocket watches
AuctionsSep 17, 2025
Mythical Set of Patek Philippe Pocket Watches Expected to Sell for $10M+

A set of four Patek Philippe “Star Caliber 2000” pocket watches is part of Sotheby’s upcoming auction in Abu Dhabi.

Journey of a Jeweler by Silvia Furmanovich
TrendsSep 17, 2025
Silvia Furmanovich’s Book Tells the ‘Journey of a Jeweler’

The Brazilian jeweler’s latest book marks her namesake brand’s 25th anniversary and tells the tale of her worldwide collaborations.

1978 Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680 Tiffany Dial
WatchesSep 17, 2025
Bob’s Watches Acquires Vintage Rolex Won on ‘The Price is Right’

The Submariner Ref. 1680 with a Tiffany & Co. dial came from the original owner, who won it as a prize on the game show in the 1970s.

reDollar-fine-jewelry-department.jpg
Brought to you by
reDollar.com Is Rolling Out the Next Level Jewelry, Diamond & Watch Consignment Program

With their unmatched services and low fees, reDollar.com is challenging some big names in the online consignment world.

Jewelers Mutual Group logo
TechnologySep 17, 2025
Jewelers Mutual Launches Shipping Solution App for Shopify

The new integration allows users to manage shipments directly from the Shopify dashboard.

Weekly QuizSep 12, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Shot of one of the pools at the Omni La Costa Resort & Spa in Carlsbad, California
EditorsSep 16, 2025
Out & About: 7 Great Quotes From Converge in Carlsbad

At Converge 2025, Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff attended sessions on DEI, tariffs, security, and more. Here are her top takeaways.

Crime police cars
CrimeSep 16, 2025
2 Robbery Suspects Killed in California Pawn Shop Shootout

Six people were shot last week at an Oakland cash-for-gold shop as employees exchanged gunfire with individuals trying to rob the store.

japac-btyb.png
Brought to you by
Rallying Call for the Jewelry Industry on Tariffs and Other Key Issues

Jewelers of America is leading the charge to protect the industry amidst rising economic threats.

Chopard Ice Cube Modular Necklace
CollectionsSep 16, 2025
Chopard Adds New Designs to Its ‘Ice Cube’ Capsule Collection

The jeweler has expanded its high jewelry offering, which launched last year, with new pieces featuring its cube motif that debuted in 1999.

Natural Diamond Council Retailer Accreditation Program seal
SourcingSep 16, 2025
Natural Diamond Council Launches Retailer Accreditation Program

Ben Bridge Jeweler and Lux Bond & Green were a part of the pilot program. 

Kristen Bell, Angela Bassett, Lisa Manobal
EditorsSep 15, 2025
Skipping the Necklace, Embracing Snakes: The Best Jewelry From the 2025 Emmy Awards

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco shares eight of her favorite jewelry looks from the 77th annual Primetime Emmy Awards, held Sunday night.

Holiday presents in gift boxes
SurveysSep 15, 2025
Resilient Shoppers to Boost Holiday Retail Sales, Says Deloitte

It’s predicting a rise in retail sales this holiday season despite economic uncertainty and elevated inflation.

Buffalo Emerald
SourcingSep 15, 2025
Gemfields Achieves $32M at High-Quality Emerald Auction

It included the sale of the 11,685-carat “Imboo” emerald that was recently discovered at Kagem.

8.33-carat emerald-cut no-oil Brazilian emerald, A. Kleiman & Co.
SourcingSep 15, 2025
AGTA Elects 8 Members to Board of Directors

The newly elected directors will officially take office in February 2026 and will be introduced at the organization’s membership meeting.

Rough montana sapphire
EditorsSep 12, 2025
Out & About: Mining Sapphires in Rock Creek, Montana

Associate Editor Lauren McLemore headed out West for a visit to Potentate Mining’s operation hosted by gemstone wholesaler Parlé Gems.

Arunashi Fordite and Rhodolite Earrings
TrendsSep 12, 2025
Piece of the Week: Arunashi’s Fordite and Rhodolite Earrings

Fordite is a man-made material created from the layers of dried enamel paint that dripped onto the floors of automotive factories.

Supreme Court stock image
Policies & IssuesSep 11, 2025
Supreme Court to Hear Tariffs Case in November

A decision likely won’t come until January 2026 at the earliest, and the tariffs remain in effect until then.

Tabayer’s Nordstrom Shop-in-Shop
MajorsSep 11, 2025
Tabayer Opens Nordstrom Shop-In-Shop

Located in the revamped jewelry hall at the retailer’s New York City flagship, this opening is Tabayer’s first shop-in-shop.

De Beers education app on mobile phone
SourcingSep 11, 2025
Need to Sell More Natural Diamonds? De Beers Has an App for That

The new, free app offers accessible educational content, like games and podcasts, for U.S. retailers.

Gold jewelry on a scale
MajorsSep 10, 2025
Stuller to Swap Gold Scrap for Full Credit to Account

As the gold price rises, the manufacturer is offering a 100 percent payout through Sept. 30 for gold clean scrap.

Jacob and Co Loewe headphones
SourcingSep 10, 2025
Tech Meets Style in the New Loewe x Jacob & Co. Headphones

Jacob & Co. partnered with the German technology company on two pairs of headphones, one set with diamonds and the other with sapphires.

Tiffany & Co Favrile Beetle Necklace in Frankenstein
TrendsSep 10, 2025
Tiffany & Co. Archival Jewels Bring Life to ‘Frankenstein’

Guillermo del Toro’s 2025 “Frankenstein” will feature 27 jewels and objects from the storied brand, including pieces from its archives.

24 Karat Club banquet
MajorsSep 10, 2025
24 Karat Club of New York’s Banquet to Return to Waldorf Astoria

The Waldorf Astoria New York’s grand reopening this past summer means a homecoming for the industry group’s annual event.

Anglo American’s Quellaveco copper mine in Peru
SourcingSep 09, 2025
Anglo American to Merge With Canadian Copper Miner

Anglo plans to merge with Teck Resources Ltd. to form Anglo Teck. The deal changes nothing about its plans to offload De Beers.

The Mellon Blue diamond
AuctionsSep 09, 2025
‘The Mellon Blue’ to Return to Auction, This Time at Christie’s

The 9.51-carat fancy vivid blue diamond, which set two world auction records at Sotheby’s in 2014, is estimated to fetch up to $30 million.

Dianne Batista Phillips Auctions
AuctionsSep 09, 2025
Phillips Names Dianne Batista Head of Jewels, New York

The industry veteran joins the auction house as it looks to solidify its footprint in the jewelry market.

Anastacia Lauren, Elle Jerge, Logan Nye
MajorsSep 09, 2025
MJSA Education Foundation Announces 2025 Scholarship Winners

The nonprofit awarded four students pursuing a professional career in jewelry making and design with $2,250 each.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy