MajorsNov 04, 2024
Jewelers Mutual Appoints Mastercard Exec to Its BoardDana J. Lorberg brings 35 years of experience in finance, technology, and strategy to the role.
AuctionsSep 25, 2019
Emerald Gifted by a Mughal Emperor Crushes Auction Estimates
The octagonal stone, given to the aristocrat who inspired a character in “The Lady of the Lake,” sold for about $187,000.
Mughal Emperor Akbar II is believed to have given this octagonal engraved Colombian emerald to Lady Mary Hood in 1813. It is set in a brooch featuring enamel, diamonds, calibré-cut emeralds and platinum.
London—A brooch featuring an engraved Colombian emerald gifted to an aristocrat who inspired a character in the poem “The Lady of the Lake” sold for more than double its pre-sale estimate at Bonhams Tuesday.
The piece was part of Bonhams’ London jewelry auction that took place Sept. 24.
It was estimated to sell for $50,000 to $75,000, but ended up going for about $187,000.
The brooch once belonged to Victorian adventurer, literary muse and heiress Lady Mary Hood.
The showpiece of the brooch is a Persian-engraved emerald believed to have been given to her by Mughal Emperor Akbar II (reigned 1806-1837) around 1813 while she was traveling across India.
Lady Hood, also known as Lady Hood Mackenzie, Mrs. Stewart-Mackenzie and sometimes as “The Hooded Lassie,” was the daughter of Francis Humberston Mackenzie, a British soldier, politician, botanist, chief of clan Mackenzie and last Baron Seaforth.
In 1801, her family moved to Barbados, where her father became governor. It was there she met her first husband, Admiral Sir Samuel Hood, who was 20 years her senior. The two married in November 1804 in Bridgetown.
Hood was a captain who served in several battles. While he was away at sea, Lady Hood lived primarily in England, where she became friends with a number of prominent aristocrats.
It was also then she befriended poet and novelist Sir Walter Scott, which led to her serving as the prototype for the character Ellen Douglas in the narrative poem “The Lady of the Lake.” The two corresponded regularly, with the poet often attempting to lift her spirits while her husband was away at war.
In 1811, Sir Samuel was appointed commander-in-chief of the East Indies, so the two sailed to India.
Lady Hood traveled extensively throughout the country, most of the time in a manner comparable to a royal procession. She sometimes even traveled by palanquin (a covered litter with bearers).
It was during this time, it is believed, that the emperor gave her the emerald.
The rulers of Mughal India often inscribed their names and titles on rubies, emeralds and diamonds.
Lady Hood’s emerald is engraved with five lines in nasta’liq, a Persian calligraphic script, interspersed with floral motifs.
The brass plaque on its case reads, “This emerald is engraved in Persian with the following words: cream of the pillars of the state, Queen and music of the age, Mary Frederica Elizabeth Hood,
noblest of women, Princess, child of the Majesty of Mahommed Akbar, the Emperor, the Warrior. 1813.”
In December 1814, Lady Hood’s husband died of malaria in Madras.
Childless and short on money, she returned to Scotland, and upon her arrival in early 1815 discovered her father and remaining brother also had died recently. The Seaforth family’s estates devolved to her, and she assumed the chieftaincy of clan Mackenzie.
In 1817, she married James Alexander Stewart of Glasserton, who took her family name—Mackenzie—and the extensive Seaforth properties. The couple had three sons and three daughters.
Lady Mary died in 1862. According to Bonhams, her funeral was one of the last great Highland funerals. A five-mile column of mourners, led by pipers playing the clan lament, followed the hearse to her final resting place, Fortrose Castle.
She was said to be the first British woman to shoot a tiger and acquired a taste for smoking the hookah pipe.
Her youngest daughter, Louisa Baring, Lady Ashburton, inherited the emerald, which has been passed down through the family to the current owner, a direct descendant.
The Colombian stone sits in a frame of black enamel, brilliant and single-cut diamonds, calibré-cut emeralds at each corner and platinum, thought to have been created circa 1925 by British society jeweler Hennell.
“The resulting Art Deco jewel perfectly encapsulates the early 20th-century vogue for Indian-inspired jewelry that resonated particularly in England due to Britain’s colonial interests,” Bonhams U.K. Jewellery Director Emily Barber said.
In December 1814, Lady Hood’s husband died of malaria in Madras.
Childless and short on money, she returned to Scotland, and upon her arrival in early 1815 discovered her father and remaining brother also had died recently. The Seaforth family’s estates devolved to her, and she assumed the chieftaincy of clan Mackenzie.
In 1817, she married James Alexander Stewart of Glasserton, who took her family name—Mackenzie—and the extensive Seaforth properties. The couple had three sons and three daughters.
Lady Mary died in 1862. According to Bonhams, her funeral was one of the last great Highland funerals. A five-mile column of mourners, led by pipers playing the clan lament, followed the hearse to her final resting place, Fortrose Castle.
She was said to be the first British woman to shoot a tiger and acquired a taste for smoking the hookah pipe.
Her youngest daughter, Louisa Baring, Lady Ashburton, inherited the emerald, which has been passed down through the family to the current owner, a direct descendant.
The Colombian stone sits in a frame of black enamel, brilliant and single-cut diamonds, calibré-cut emeralds at each corner and platinum, thought to have been created circa 1925 by British society jeweler Hennell.
“The resulting Art Deco jewel perfectly encapsulates the early 20th-century vogue for Indian-inspired jewelry that resonated particularly in England due to Britain’s colonial interests,” Bonhams U.K. Jewellery Director Emily Barber said.
More on Auctions
The Latest
CrimeNov 04, 2024
FBI Offering $15K Reward for Info on Halloween Mask-Wearing RobbersThe suspects are said to have been involved in the armed robberies of four jewelry stores across three Midwest states.
CollectionsNov 04, 2024
John Hardy’s New Jewels Turn the Black Sands of Bali into DiamondsThe new designs blend Creative Director Reed Krakoff’s aesthetic with the brand’s Balinese roots.
Brought to you by
Navigating Cybersecurity: Essential Guidance for JewelersFrom protecting customer data to safeguarding inventory records, it's crucial to learn how to tackle cybersecurity challenges.
IndependentsNov 04, 2024
Eiseman Jewels is Celebrating Watches All Month-LongThe Dallas-based jeweler will showcase timepieces from Cartier, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Parmigiani Fleurier, and more.
Weekly QuizOct 31, 2024
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SourcingNov 01, 2024
Reena Ahluwalia Donates Diamond Painting to Benefit CJAThe artwork, titled “Pristine,” was raffled off at the Canadian Jewellers Association’s recent summit.
IndependentsNov 01, 2024
Gunderson’s Jewelers Opens New Location in NebraskaThe new store features a custom design studio and a bridal salon.
Brought to you by
Enhance Your Expertise with IGI’s In-Person Courses in NYCThis fall, sharpen your skills in jewelry grading, quality control and diamond assessment.
CollectionsNov 01, 2024
Piece of the Week: Sydney Evan Gets ‘Wicked’Designer Rosanne Karmes has created a collection to coincide with the release of the movie musical, which is expected to be a blockbuster.
FinancialsOct 31, 2024
Charles & Colvard Faces Possible Nasdaq DelistingThe retailer said it will file the necessary paperwork to regain compliance as soon as it is able.
ColumnistsOct 31, 2024
Peter Smith: Nervous Flyers and Emotional SellingWhether you’re calming the jittery gentleman in seat 13B or selling a diamond ring to a hesitant customer, an empathetic approach is best.
Events & AwardsOct 31, 2024
WJA Will Celebrate 4 Award Winners at ‘Future of Forty’ GalaThe gala includes a red carpet, music from DJ Renata, an awards program, and “mystery boxes.”
Events & AwardsOct 31, 2024
The Instore Show Returns To Chicago AreaThe trade show, in its third year, will take place in late September at the Donald E. Stephens Convention Center in Rosemont, Illinois.
Lab-GrownOct 31, 2024
Q&A: Constance Polamalu on Selling Natural and Lab-Grown DiamondsThe jeweler shared her change of heart on lab-grown diamonds and why she keeps them separate from natural diamonds in her business ventures.
Events & AwardsOct 30, 2024
These Designers, Journalists, and Retailers Are Up for a Gem Award The 2025 Gem Awards are scheduled to take place March 14 at Cipriani 42nd Street in New York City.
MajorsOct 30, 2024
Peggy Grosz Leaves Assael After Company Is SoldGrosz had served as Assael’s senior vice president and creative director since 2017.
CollectionsOct 30, 2024
CD Peacock Honors Its Hometown of Chicago in First Bridal Collection“Love and Celebration” is the jeweler’s first in-house collection featuring engagement rings, wedding bands, and celebration rings.
SurveysOct 30, 2024
Consumer Confidence Rebounds in OctoberA more positive view of the labor market contributed to the strongest monthly gain since March 2021.
Events & AwardsOct 30, 2024
Mejuri to Award $50K in Scholarships to Jewelry Design StudentsThe funds will be distributed to schools in the U.S., Canada, and the U.K.
MajorsOct 29, 2024
Cybersecurity Expert Selected as President of Jewelers’ Security AllianceJennifer Mulvihill, the first woman to lead JSA in the organization’s 141-year history, takes over for the retiring John Kennedy.
Events & AwardsOct 29, 2024
The Can’t-Miss Events of 2024 New York City Jewelry WeekThis year’s festivities include more than 100 experiences, such as designer showcases, panel discussions, and even a treasure hunt.
MajorsOct 29, 2024
Pandora’s Holiday Campaign, New Jewelry Celebrate Light and LoveThe ads star brand ambassadors Chloe and Halle Bailey and Pamela Anderson.
SourcingOct 29, 2024
De Beers’ Production Drops 25% as Demand Remains SluggishThe company combined two sights in Q3 due to the slowdown in demand, and said it is moving up the dates for sights 9 and 10 in Q4.
EditorsOct 28, 2024
Q&A: Monica Rich Kosann Looks Back on 20 Years The jewelry designer discussed how she got into the jewelry industry, what she keeps in her favorite locket, and the future of her brand.
MajorsOct 28, 2024
Jewelers for Children’s Halloween Costume Contest RocksParticipants can buy five votes for $5 to decide which jeweler will dress up as an ‘80s rockstar for Halloween.
TrendsOct 28, 2024
Amanda’s Spooky Style FileThese 15 pieces of jewelry hand-picked ahead of Halloween appeal to the costume- and candy-loving child in all of us.
MajorsOct 25, 2024
This New Bulgari Boutique Is on a YachtStarboard Luxury is bringing the Italian brand aboard The Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection’s newest yacht.
