Auctions

Emerald Gifted by a Mughal Emperor Crushes Auction Estimates

AuctionsSep 25, 2019

Emerald Gifted by a Mughal Emperor Crushes Auction Estimates

The octagonal stone, given to the aristocrat who inspired a character in “The Lady of the Lake,” sold for about $187,000.

20190925_Mughal-emerald.jpg
Mughal Emperor Akbar II is believed to have given this octagonal engraved Colombian emerald to Lady Mary Hood in 1813. It is set in a brooch featuring enamel, diamonds, calibré-cut emeralds and platinum.

London—A brooch featuring an engraved Colombian emerald gifted to an aristocrat who inspired a character in the poem “The Lady of the Lake” sold for more than double its pre-sale estimate at Bonhams Tuesday.

The piece was part of Bonhams’ London jewelry auction that took place Sept. 24.

It was estimated to sell for $50,000 to $75,000, but ended up going for about $187,000.

The brooch once belonged to Victorian adventurer, literary muse and heiress Lady Mary Hood.

The showpiece of the brooch is a Persian-engraved emerald believed to have been given to her by Mughal Emperor Akbar II (reigned 1806-1837) around 1813 while she was traveling across India.

Lady Hood, also known as Lady Hood Mackenzie, Mrs. Stewart-Mackenzie and sometimes as “The Hooded Lassie,” was the daughter of Francis Humberston Mackenzie, a British soldier, politician, botanist, chief of clan Mackenzie and last Baron Seaforth.

In 1801, her family moved to Barbados, where her father became governor. It was there she met her first husband, Admiral Sir Samuel Hood, who was 20 years her senior. The two married in November 1804 in Bridgetown.

Hood was a captain who served in several battles. While he was away at sea, Lady Hood lived primarily in England, where she became friends with a number of prominent aristocrats.

It was also then she befriended poet and novelist Sir Walter Scott, which led to her serving as the prototype for the character Ellen Douglas in the narrative poem “The Lady of the Lake.” The two corresponded regularly, with the poet often attempting to lift her spirits while her husband was away at war.

In 1811, Sir Samuel was appointed commander-in-chief of the East Indies, so the two sailed to India.

Lady Hood traveled extensively throughout the country, most of the time in a manner comparable to a royal procession. She sometimes even traveled by palanquin (a covered litter with bearers).

It was during this time, it is believed, that the emperor gave her the emerald.

The rulers of Mughal India often inscribed their names and titles on rubies, emeralds and diamonds.

Lady Hood’s emerald is engraved with five lines in nasta’liq, a Persian calligraphic script, interspersed with floral motifs.

The brass plaque on its case reads, “This emerald is engraved in Persian with the following words: cream of the pillars of the state, Queen and music of the age, Mary Frederica Elizabeth Hood,

noblest of women, Princess, child of the Majesty of Mahommed Akbar, the Emperor, the Warrior. 1813.”

In December 1814, Lady Hood’s husband died of malaria in Madras.

Childless and short on money, she returned to Scotland, and upon her arrival in early 1815 discovered her father and remaining brother also had died recently. The Seaforth family’s estates devolved to her, and she assumed the chieftaincy of clan Mackenzie.

In 1817, she married James Alexander Stewart of Glasserton, who took her family name—Mackenzie—and the extensive Seaforth properties. The couple had three sons and three daughters.

Lady Mary died in 1862. According to Bonhams, her funeral was one of the last great Highland funerals. A five-mile column of mourners, led by pipers playing the clan lament, followed the hearse to her final resting place, Fortrose Castle.

She was said to be the first British woman to shoot a tiger and acquired a taste for smoking the hookah pipe.

Her youngest daughter, Louisa Baring, Lady Ashburton, inherited the emerald, which has been passed down through the family to the current owner, a direct descendant.

The Colombian stone sits in a frame of black enamel, brilliant and single-cut diamonds, calibré-cut emeralds at each corner and platinum, thought to have been created circa 1925 by British society jeweler Hennell.

“The resulting Art Deco jewel perfectly encapsulates the early 20th-century vogue for Indian-inspired jewelry that resonated particularly in England due to Britain’s colonial interests,” Bonhams U.K. Jewellery Director Emily Barber said.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Dunkelberger’s Fine Jewelry
IndependentsJun 05, 2026
Pennsylvania Jewelry Store To Close After 79 Years

Jim Springer, owner of Dunkelberger’s Fine Jewelry, is heading into retirement.

Stock image of a person shopping at the grocery store
SurveysJun 05, 2026
Consumers to Cut Back on Spending Amid Rising Prices, Survey Shows

When conducting its May consumer confidence survey, The Conference Board asked extra questions about consumers’ budgeting strategies.

Rebel Jewelry Tunnel Charm
CollectionsJun 05, 2026
Rebel Jewelry’s Charm Symbolizes Perseverance for Pride Month

The “Tunnel” charm, our Piece of the Week, celebrates Pride Month with its design inspired by hope and the light at the end of the tunnel.

PG-05-SHOT-2-LUCIDA.033 1.png
Brought to you by
All Eyes on Gold Prices. Alternatives to Look For. And What to BEWARE of in Vegas

As gold prices rise, today’s retailers are looking for alternatives at prices that will appeal to wider audiences.

Three gold rings set with yellow- and brown-hued diamonds
SourcingJun 05, 2026
State of Diamonds: The Way Forward for Natural Diamonds

The jewelry industry is reassessing its positioning as Gen Z reshapes the retail landscape and lab grown continues to gain market share.

Weekly QuizJun 05, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Dakota Badia and Nancy Badia
CollectionsJun 04, 2026
Buddha Mama to Spend the Summer in Aspen

The Miami-based fine jewelry brand will host its first summer residency in the Colorado mountain town from June 5 to Aug. 23.

AGS at Peter Yantzer Building dedication
MajorsJun 04, 2026
AGS Honors Late Peter Yantzer, Holds Time Capsule Ceremony

The organization also announced its international board of directors for the 2026-2027 term.

1872x1052-NextGem-2026-National-Jeweler-Advertorial.jpg
Brought to you by
How Modern Training Is Becoming a Competitive Advantage for Jewelry Retailers

With the trade and customer trust in mind, GIA® developed NextGem™ – on-demand training designed specifically for retail.

Neiman Marcus downtown Dallas store
MajorsJun 04, 2026
Neiman Marcus’ Downtown Dallas Store to Close in September

Saks Global confirmed the closure this week, spelling the end for a store that’s been part of downtown Dallas for more than 100 years.

The Retail Smiths founder and National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsJun 03, 2026
Peter Smith: When Top Talent Leaves and What It Says About You

Smith discusses how managers should handle a top performer's exit, warning that a poor response could have a lasting impact.

Screenshot of the Tracr website homepage
GradingJun 03, 2026
GIA’s Tracr Investment Is First Step Toward Industry-Owned Platform

The Gemological Institute of America is now a 30 percent stakeholder in Tracr, the De Beers-backed blockchain for diamonds.

The 1916 Company Coast to Coast Roadshow
WatchesJun 03, 2026
The 1916 Company Taking Pre-Owned Rolexes on the Road, Again

The retailer is bringing Rolex Certified Pre-Owned watches to five U.S. cities in 2026 for collectors to see, try on, and purchase.

Jessica Alba in Gabriel & Co. campaign
IndependentsJun 03, 2026
Jessica Alba Is the New Face of Gabriel & Co.

The actress and entrepreneur stars in the jeweler’s new campaign that celebrates life’s quiet moments.

Anna Maccieri Rossi Ora Wood Sunrise Cuff, Marie Lichtenberg High Jewelry Bandana, Anna Maccieri Rossi Carpe Diem Pendant
TrendsJun 03, 2026
State of Design: Only the Innovative Will Survive

The price of gold has risen, affecting the number of pieces designers make, the materials they use, and how they position themselves.

Woman with crossed hands and rings on fingers
FinancialsJun 02, 2026
Signet Jewelers’ Q1 Sales Up 2% As It Focuses on ‘Core Four’

The jewelry retailer is zeroing in on Zales, Jared, Kay Jewelers, and Blue Nile as it looks to create unique brand identities for each.

Dr. Akinwumi Adesina, chairperson of the Diamonds for Development Fund
SourcingJun 02, 2026
Leader Appointed for Botswana’s Diamonds for Development Fund

Dr. Akinwumi Adesina, a development economist, will head the fund created to help Botswana diversify its economy.

James Marks
WatchesJun 02, 2026
Watch Industry Veteran James Marks Joins Sotheby’s

Sotheby’s has appointed the former Phillips executive as its global head of private sales and retail in its watches division.

People shopping in a jewelry store
IndependentsJun 02, 2026
State of Retail: 6 Things Retailers Should Know About Consumers Today

From Gen Z’s view of luxury to “doom spending,” these are the six consumer trends to note this year.

Zahn-Z Big Zaha Art Deco Ring
Events & AwardsJun 01, 2026
Design Atelier Brands Have a Big Night at Emotional Couture Design Awards

The show started by honoring Mildred Marcano, ended with a tearful Beth Anne Bonanno, and recognized a dozen-plus designers in between.

Rapaport's rebranding
SourcingJun 01, 2026
RapNet Rebranding as Rapaport Trade

The revamped online diamond marketplace will feature pricing intelligence and data-driven tools for more efficient buying and selling.

Gemfields emeralds
SourcingJun 01, 2026
Gemfields’ Higher-Quality Emerald Auction Achieves $26.8M

The miner said demand for higher-quality emeralds is stable, but there is notable caution in the market.

Cultus Artem River of Heaven Necklace
CollectionsMay 29, 2026
Cultus Artem’s Necklace Is the Oasis in Las Vegas’ Desert

The “River of Heaven” necklace, our Piece of the Week debuting at Couture, combines 26 salt and pepper diamonds spaced by Tahitian pearls.

Sean Dunn, Amy Greenberg, Elise Greenberg, Coleman Clark, Mitchell Clark
IndependentsMay 29, 2026
Meet the 2026 Retailer Hall of Fame Inductees

This year’s inductees include second-, third-, and fourth-generation jewelers.

Jesse Itzler
Events & AwardsMay 28, 2026
JCK Announces Jesse Itzler as 2026 Keynote Speaker

The author, speaker, and entrepreneur will give his presentation, “Spiritual Billionaire,” on Saturday morning.

JCK Rocks Nelly Graphic
Events & AwardsMay 28, 2026
JCK Rocks To Ride With Nelly

Three-time Grammy award-winning artist Nelly is set to perform at the annual event at Tao Beach on Sunday night.

A screen shot of The Clear Cut's website
MajorsMay 28, 2026
Signet Jewelers to Buy The Clear Cut

Signet will integrate the online-only, natural diamond-focused jeweler into Blue Nile, which it wants to position as a higher-end retailer.

Itä Aguaviva Tassel Pendant, Ashaha Anzar Cuff, Cultus Artem Quetzal Ring
CollectionsMay 28, 2026
Meet The 17 Newcomers to Couture’s Design Atelier

These up-and-coming jewelry brands are bringing their distinct aesthetic and unique point-of-view to the Design Atelier for the first time.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy