Auctions

Emerald Gifted by a Mughal Emperor Crushes Auction Estimates

AuctionsSep 25, 2019

Emerald Gifted by a Mughal Emperor Crushes Auction Estimates

The octagonal stone, given to the aristocrat who inspired a character in “The Lady of the Lake,” sold for about $187,000.

20190925_Mughal-emerald.jpg
Mughal Emperor Akbar II is believed to have given this octagonal engraved Colombian emerald to Lady Mary Hood in 1813. It is set in a brooch featuring enamel, diamonds, calibré-cut emeralds and platinum.

London—A brooch featuring an engraved Colombian emerald gifted to an aristocrat who inspired a character in the poem “The Lady of the Lake” sold for more than double its pre-sale estimate at Bonhams Tuesday.

The piece was part of Bonhams’ London jewelry auction that took place Sept. 24.

It was estimated to sell for $50,000 to $75,000, but ended up going for about $187,000.

The brooch once belonged to Victorian adventurer, literary muse and heiress Lady Mary Hood.

The showpiece of the brooch is a Persian-engraved emerald believed to have been given to her by Mughal Emperor Akbar II (reigned 1806-1837) around 1813 while she was traveling across India.

Lady Hood, also known as Lady Hood Mackenzie, Mrs. Stewart-Mackenzie and sometimes as “The Hooded Lassie,” was the daughter of Francis Humberston Mackenzie, a British soldier, politician, botanist, chief of clan Mackenzie and last Baron Seaforth.

In 1801, her family moved to Barbados, where her father became governor. It was there she met her first husband, Admiral Sir Samuel Hood, who was 20 years her senior. The two married in November 1804 in Bridgetown.

Hood was a captain who served in several battles. While he was away at sea, Lady Hood lived primarily in England, where she became friends with a number of prominent aristocrats.

It was also then she befriended poet and novelist Sir Walter Scott, which led to her serving as the prototype for the character Ellen Douglas in the narrative poem “The Lady of the Lake.” The two corresponded regularly, with the poet often attempting to lift her spirits while her husband was away at war.

In 1811, Sir Samuel was appointed commander-in-chief of the East Indies, so the two sailed to India.

Lady Hood traveled extensively throughout the country, most of the time in a manner comparable to a royal procession. She sometimes even traveled by palanquin (a covered litter with bearers).

It was during this time, it is believed, that the emperor gave her the emerald.

The rulers of Mughal India often inscribed their names and titles on rubies, emeralds and diamonds.

Lady Hood’s emerald is engraved with five lines in nasta’liq, a Persian calligraphic script, interspersed with floral motifs.

The brass plaque on its case reads, “This emerald is engraved in Persian with the following words: cream of the pillars of the state, Queen and music of the age, Mary Frederica Elizabeth Hood,

noblest of women, Princess, child of the Majesty of Mahommed Akbar, the Emperor, the Warrior. 1813.”

In December 1814, Lady Hood’s husband died of malaria in Madras.

Childless and short on money, she returned to Scotland, and upon her arrival in early 1815 discovered her father and remaining brother also had died recently. The Seaforth family’s estates devolved to her, and she assumed the chieftaincy of clan Mackenzie.

In 1817, she married James Alexander Stewart of Glasserton, who took her family name—Mackenzie—and the extensive Seaforth properties. The couple had three sons and three daughters.

Lady Mary died in 1862. According to Bonhams, her funeral was one of the last great Highland funerals. A five-mile column of mourners, led by pipers playing the clan lament, followed the hearse to her final resting place, Fortrose Castle.

She was said to be the first British woman to shoot a tiger and acquired a taste for smoking the hookah pipe.

Her youngest daughter, Louisa Baring, Lady Ashburton, inherited the emerald, which has been passed down through the family to the current owner, a direct descendant.

The Colombian stone sits in a frame of black enamel, brilliant and single-cut diamonds, calibré-cut emeralds at each corner and platinum, thought to have been created circa 1925 by British society jeweler Hennell.

“The resulting Art Deco jewel perfectly encapsulates the early 20th-century vogue for Indian-inspired jewelry that resonated particularly in England due to Britain’s colonial interests,” Bonhams U.K. Jewellery Director Emily Barber said.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Rendering of renovated Orloff Jewelers store
IndependentsSep 04, 2026
Orloff Jewelers Will Soon Unveil a Bigger, Better Location

The California jeweler is renovating its store in Fresno, with plans to show off the new space in December.

Chelsea Gabrielle Momentum Infinite Ring
CollectionsSep 04, 2026
Chelsea Gabrielle Transforms Pilates Reformer Springs Into Ring

A lifelong practitioner of Pilates, Gabrielle looked to the springs’ tension and suspension when creating this ring, our Piece of the Week.

JCK Industry Fund logo
Events & AwardsSep 04, 2026
JCK Industry Fund Accepting 2027 Applications

The deadline to apply is Nov. 13.

Cover.jpg
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk About

Submit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.

Simon G CEO Zaven Ghanimian
EditorsSep 03, 2026
Q&A: Simon G.’s CEO on Why He Won’t Use AI for Jewelry Design

Zaven Ghanimian discussed the value of human craftsmanship and where the implementation of artificial intelligence does work.

Weekly QuizSep 03, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Jewelers of America logo
Events & AwardsSep 03, 2026
Here Are the First Recipients of Nina Pugliese Memorial Scholarship

Jewelers of America also revealed the recipients of the Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship and its own scholarship programs.

Robert Pattinson Jaeger-LeCoultre
WatchesSep 03, 2026
Robert Pattinson Joins Jaeger-LeCoultre as Brand Ambassador

The British actor, known for his roles in “Twilight” and “The Odyssey,” will star in a campaign for the Master Control Chronometre.

1872-x-1052-July-ad (1).png
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying Events

Retailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.

Sydney Evan Little Love Open Coin Fixed Necklace
CollectionsSep 03, 2026
Sydney Evan Celebrates 25 Years With 4 New Collections

The “Confetti Disco,” “Champagne Cheers,” “Tuxedo,” and “Classic Punk” jewelry collections each capture a distinct spirit of celebration.

Stock image of a gavel
CrimeSep 02, 2026
CA Jeweler Gets 5 Years in ‘Phantom Rolex’ Ponzi Scheme

Nelson Holdo of Newport Beach pleaded guilty to multiple counts of felony grand theft and writing bad checks and was sentenced Monday.

Arnaud Michon
MajorsSep 02, 2026
Messika Names Former Omega Exec as New President, CEO of Americas

Arnaud Michon, the former Omega USA President, will now lead Messika’s Americas region during its international development.

Glitter in the Grove Logo
Events & AwardsSep 02, 2026
Emerald’s New Owner Introduces ‘Glitter in the Grove’

The branding references the back-to-back jewelry shows that new parent company Forge will host in Miami's Coconut Grove this November.

Stainless steel Patek Philippe Calatrava watch
AuctionsSep 01, 2026
UK Woman Uncovers Rare Patek Philippe Watch in Mom’s Jewelry Box

The stainless steel Patek Philippe “Calatrava” watch from the 1930s sold for nearly $80,000 at a recent Hansons Cornwall auction.

Smart Age Solutions founder and CEO Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsSep 01, 2026
Your Jewelry Marketing Has a Bridal Problem

Engagement rings are important but don’t ignore the customers who are buying jewelry “just because,” Emmanuel Raheb writes.

Charlotte Fournet and Krizia Cucurachi
MajorsSep 01, 2026
Kering Names New Pomellato, DoDo CEOs

Former Pomellato CEO Sabina Belli has been named president of Kering Italia amid a shakeup of Kering's new Jewelry division.

Anne Marie Shulman
MajorsSep 01, 2026
Anne Marie Shulman Joins GPA Global

The veteran luxury packaging executive was appointed to help the company grow its North American business.

Photo of one of the suspects in theft of Queen Nazli’s necklace from MAK museum
CrimeAug 31, 2026
$4M Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Necklace Snatched From Vienna Museum

Once the property of an Egyptian queen, the necklace was part of a larger exhibition of VCA jewelry at the Museum of Applied Arts (MAK).

Ethiopian paraiba tourmaline
GradingAug 31, 2026
GIA, Gübelin Gem Lab Confirm New Paraíba Tourmaline Deposit in Ethiopia

The labs’ separate investigations each determined that the East African country is producing copper-bearing tourmaline.

Levinger & Bissenger silver floral pendant
Events & AwardsAug 31, 2026
Wisconsin Museum to Host Jewelry Exhibition

“Chicago Collects: Jewelry in Perspective” at the Oshkosh Public Museum will feature works by Fabergé, Lalique, and Louis Comfort Tiffany.

Catbird First Men’s Collection Worn Well
CollectionsAug 31, 2026
Catbird Launches First Men’s Jewelry Collection

The “Worn Well” collection is Catbird's take on classic men's jewelry.

Buddha Mama Butterfly Necklace
CollectionsAug 28, 2026
Dolly Parton Would Have Loved This Butterfly Necklace

This Buddha Mama butterfly is our Piece of the Week honoring the legend, who embraced the beautiful insect as her symbol.

Gareth Penny
SourcingAug 28, 2026
Gareth Penny to Give Opening Speech at CIBJO Centenary Congress

The former De Beers CEO, and perhaps its next owner, will be a featured speaker at the event, slated for Sept. 4-7 in Italy.

Day’s Jewelers store in Salem New Hampshire
IndependentsAug 28, 2026
Day’s Jewelers Honored With 3 Workplace Awards

The employee-owned jeweler was named a “Best Place to Work” in Maine, New Hampshire, and for women.

Alex Consani in Pandora Talisman campaign
CollectionsAug 27, 2026
Pandora Expands ‘Talisman’ Collection as Lawsuit Continues

The second iteration of the jewelry collection was inspired by the zodiac and the four elements: earth, water, air and fire.

Stock image of loose polished diamonds
SourcingAug 27, 2026
OFAC Renews License Allowing Import of ‘Grandfathered’ Russian Diamonds

General License 104B supersedes General License 104A, which was set to expire on Sept. 1.

Counterfeit Cartier Love bracelet
CrimeAug 27, 2026
Customs Seizes Nearly 900 Pieces of Counterfeit Jewelry

The package, intercepted in Indianapolis, contained fake Cartier, Tiffany & Co., and Van Cleef and Arpels jewelry.

Jessica McCormack South Coast Plaza California Store Exterior
IndependentsAug 27, 2026
Jessica McCormack to Open First West Coast Store

The new location in Costa Mesa, California, marks the brand’s second store in the United States and fourth standalone location worldwide.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy