EditorsApr 15, 2025
Tariffs: What We Know Right Now Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff answers questions about how the new taxes levied on countries like India and China will impact the industry.
SourcingFeb 21, 2019
Lab-Grown Diamonds Land at Place Vendôme
Courbet is headed by a former Richemont executive and a marketing executive turned jewelry designer.
Named for rebellious French painter Gustave Courbet, lab-grown diamond jewelry brand Courbet opened last spring on Paris’ famed Place Vendôme. It is the only lab-grown diamond jeweler on a square known for being home to some of the world’s most illustrious jewelry houses.
Paris—Place Vendôme is where César Ritz opened his celebrated hotel that housed Coco Chanel and served as a favored watering hole for Ernest Hemingway (so much so that the hotel bar bears his name).
For 200 years, the famed square in Paris’ 1st arrondissement also has been home to boutiques for the world’s most illustrious fashion and jewelry houses, including French heritage brands like Boucheron, Chaumet, Cartier, Mauboussin and Mellerio, which opened in 1815 as the first jeweler on the plaza.
Now, Place Vendôme houses a company with a future bent, a fledgling lab-grown diamond jewelry brand helmed by a former Richemont executive and a Swedish marketing executive turned designer.
Courbet, named after the innovative French painter thought to be behind the destruction of the column in the center’s square in the 1870s, opened a showroom at 7 Place Vendôme in May 2018 and began selling online the following month. The store is located on the fifth floor in the Cour Vendôme.
Manuel Mallen, who spent nearly 20 years as an executive with Piaget and then Baume & Mercier, started the brand in 2017 with Marie-Ann Wachtmeister, a former marketing manager in Europe for Procter & Gamble who started and then sold her own telecom company before getting into jewelry design in 2010.
Like so many other companies that sell man-made diamonds, Courbet’s marketing uses words like “sustainable” and “ethical,” but it also pays homage to the history and heritage of the brands in the square it occupies.
Courbet, the company’s press kit reads, “embodies the reinvention of Place Vendôme, and proposes the next generation of jewelry,” while noting that it is not “aiming to revolutionize the sector or denounce its traditional players. After more than 25 years as part of this industry, Manuel Mallen simply wants to offer an alternative.”
View this post on InstagramA post shared by COURBET • Joaillier de Valeurs (@courbetofficial) on Nov 6, 2018 at 6:40am PST
The company told National Jeweler that it has a variety of sources for its diamonds, including San Francisco-based Diamond Foundry, Russian lab-grown diamond company New Diamond Technology (NDT) and “very soon” will be sourcing stones from a diamond grower in France.
Among the brand’s standouts are the “Eclipse” bangle bracelets, which bring to mind another French jeweler, Cartier, and its ubiquitous Love bracelets.
The jewelry is crafted in 18-karat recycled white, yellow or rose gold and is manufactured in Europe—in Paris and Lyon, France as well as Milan—using craftsmen who make jewelry for other brands on Place Vendôme.
RELATED CONTENT: 4 Predictions on Retail and Diamond Desire in 2019
Courbet joins the growing roster of companies dealing in lab-grown diamonds.
Last year, De Beers launched Lightbox, and J.C. Penney and Macy’s both added the Richline-supported line “Grown With Love” just before the holidays.
Another Berkshire Hathaway-owned company, Helzberg, also has expanded its man-made diamond offerings.
The jeweler, which ranked as the eighth largest fine jeweler in terms of sales and the third largest in terms of size in National Jeweler’s 2018 “State of the Majors” report, started selling the “Light Heart” line late last year.
Helzberg Diamonds first experimented with lab-grown offerings in 2015, testing pink, yellow and white stones from Scio and Renaissance Diamonds, though it dropped the line shortly after.
The North Kansas City, Missouri-based chain also carries man-made diamonds from Altr.
Last year, De Beers launched Lightbox, and J.C. Penney and Macy’s both added the Richline-supported line “Grown With Love” just before the holidays.
Another Berkshire Hathaway-owned company, Helzberg, also has expanded its man-made diamond offerings.
The jeweler, which ranked as the eighth largest fine jeweler in terms of sales and the third largest in terms of size in National Jeweler’s 2018 “State of the Majors” report, started selling the “Light Heart” line late last year.
Helzberg Diamonds first experimented with lab-grown offerings in 2015, testing pink, yellow and white stones from Scio and Renaissance Diamonds, though it dropped the line shortly after.
The North Kansas City, Missouri-based chain also carries man-made diamonds from Altr.
More on Sourcing
The Latest
EditorsApr 15, 2025
Q&A: Bogolo Joy Kenewendo on Making Deals, Marketing DiamondsKenewendo, Botswana’s minster of minerals and energy, discusses closing the deal with De Beers and the work that was missed along the way.
AuctionsApr 15, 2025
23-Carat ‘Golconda Blue’ Heads to AuctionThe historic fancy vivid blue diamond set to headline Christie’s Geneva sale next month could sell for up to $50 million.
FinancialsApr 15, 2025
LVMH’s Q1 Sales Slip 2 PercentLVMH CFO Cécile Cabanis also discussed the effects of tariffs so far.
Weekly QuizApr 11, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
CrimeApr 15, 2025
Jon Hamm Plays a Jewel Thief on Apple TV+The “Mad Men” and “The Morning Show” star steals jewelry, art, and handbags from his wealthy neighbors in “Your Friends & Neighbors.”
FinancialsApr 14, 2025
Movado to Restate Years of Financials Due to ‘Misconduct’ in Dubai An investigation found that the former managing director of Movado’s Dubai branch overstated and prematurely recorded sales.
Brought to you by
The Heart of the Industry: Giving Bench Jewelers the Recognition They DeserveBench jewelers spend years honing their skills, Jewelers of America’s Certification validates their talents.
CollectionsApr 14, 2025
Sauer Embraces Emptiness Through ‘Ma’ CollectionThe collection pays tribute to the Japanese philosophy of Ma, studying balance, stillness, and the interplay between presence and absence.
IndependentsApr 14, 2025
Illinois Jeweler Closing After 45 YearsMari Lou’s Fine Jewelry in Orland Park, a suburb of Chicago, is closing its doors.
GradingApr 14, 2025
GIA Expands Overseas Services as Tariffs Kick InGIA’s labs in Dubai and Hong Kong are now accepting larger diamonds in light of the “logistical challenges” presented by the new tariffs.
AuctionsApr 11, 2025
Piece of the Week: A Replica of Princess Grace’s Wedding EarringsThese earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels, featuring the same design as a pair worn by Princess Grace, are up for auction at Woolley & Wallis.
Recorded WebinarsApr 11, 2025
Watch: Top Tips for Saving Time With AITwo experts share how artificial intelligence tools can help retailers run a more efficient business.
WatchesApr 11, 2025
Bulova Documentary Now on Amazon Prime“America Telling Time: 150 Years of Bulova” explores the storied history of the American watchmaker.
Policies & IssuesApr 10, 2025
Trump Presses Pause on Higher Tariffs for 90 DaysAn across-the-board tariff of 10 percent remains in place for all U.S. trading partners, except China.
MajorsApr 10, 2025
Brilliant Earth Taps Influencers, Their Moms for Mother’s Day CampaignBrigette Pheloung and Tania Sarin, and their mothers, star in the campaign wearing medallions they co-designed.
MajorsApr 10, 2025
Pary LeVian, Matriarch of the LeVian Family, Dies at 96LeVian is remembered for her unwavering commitment to her family, community, and helping others.
Events & AwardsApr 10, 2025
Hamptons Jewelry Show to Debut This SummerThe retail show is open to the public and will run July 24-27.
MajorsApr 09, 2025
Tiffany & Co. Opens Flagship in BrazilThe new store in the upscale Iguatemi São Paulo mall is the storied brand’s first flagship in Brazil.
AuctionsApr 09, 2025
Bonhams to Offer Selection of Chaumet JewelsThe pieces span from the Art Deco period to the 1970s and will go up for auction at the Paris Jewels sale later this month.
MajorsApr 09, 2025
Pandora Names Tyla as Its New Brand AmbassadorThe Grammy-winning singer-songwriter, who is set to perform at Coachella this month, also debuted a curated selection from the brand.
WatchesApr 08, 2025
Here Are the New Rolex Watches for 2025The introductions include the Land-Dweller, Rolex’s first new model since 2012, as well as several new dials for its classic timepieces.
MajorsApr 08, 2025
Willis Cowlishaw, Zale Executive and Mentor to Many, Dies at 98Cowlishaw earned a degree in horology after serving in World War II, working at one of the first Zales stores in Tulsa, Oklahoma.
AuctionsApr 07, 2025
182-Carat Paraíba-Type Tourmaline Heading to Auction in Hong KongBonhams will offer the “Kat Florence Lumina” at its May 22 jewelry auction.
CrimeApr 07, 2025
Third Man Involved in $2.7M Smash-and-Grab Is SentencedIn March 2022, the men went into a jewelry store in Beverly Hills and smashed the display cases with sledgehammers and crowbars.
AuctionsApr 07, 2025
Sotheby’s ‘Area_51’ Watch Auction Totals $1.6MThe 51 unique watches from Sotheby’s three-day sale and immersive exhibition all found buyers, with the top lot selling for $229,955.
