CollectionsMar 18, 2025
Beck Debuts New Collection as Trove’s Latest Designer-in-ResidenceRebecca Zeijdel-Paz created more than 75 new pieces for the residency, which will be on display at Trove’s store in New York through April.
SourcingFeb 21, 2019
Lab-Grown Diamonds Land at Place Vendôme
Courbet is headed by a former Richemont executive and a marketing executive turned jewelry designer.
Named for rebellious French painter Gustave Courbet, lab-grown diamond jewelry brand Courbet opened last spring on Paris’ famed Place Vendôme. It is the only lab-grown diamond jeweler on a square known for being home to some of the world’s most illustrious jewelry houses.
Paris—Place Vendôme is where César Ritz opened his celebrated hotel that housed Coco Chanel and served as a favored watering hole for Ernest Hemingway (so much so that the hotel bar bears his name).
For 200 years, the famed square in Paris’ 1st arrondissement also has been home to boutiques for the world’s most illustrious fashion and jewelry houses, including French heritage brands like Boucheron, Chaumet, Cartier, Mauboussin and Mellerio, which opened in 1815 as the first jeweler on the plaza.
Now, Place Vendôme houses a company with a future bent, a fledgling lab-grown diamond jewelry brand helmed by a former Richemont executive and a Swedish marketing executive turned designer.
Courbet, named after the innovative French painter thought to be behind the destruction of the column in the center’s square in the 1870s, opened a showroom at 7 Place Vendôme in May 2018 and began selling online the following month. The store is located on the fifth floor in the Cour Vendôme.
Manuel Mallen, who spent nearly 20 years as an executive with Piaget and then Baume & Mercier, started the brand in 2017 with Marie-Ann Wachtmeister, a former marketing manager in Europe for Procter & Gamble who started and then sold her own telecom company before getting into jewelry design in 2010.
Like so many other companies that sell man-made diamonds, Courbet’s marketing uses words like “sustainable” and “ethical,” but it also pays homage to the history and heritage of the brands in the square it occupies.
Courbet, the company’s press kit reads, “embodies the reinvention of Place Vendôme, and proposes the next generation of jewelry,” while noting that it is not “aiming to revolutionize the sector or denounce its traditional players. After more than 25 years as part of this industry, Manuel Mallen simply wants to offer an alternative.”
View this post on InstagramA post shared by COURBET • Joaillier de Valeurs (@courbetofficial) on Nov 6, 2018 at 6:40am PST
The company told National Jeweler that it has a variety of sources for its diamonds, including San Francisco-based Diamond Foundry, Russian lab-grown diamond company New Diamond Technology (NDT) and “very soon” will be sourcing stones from a diamond grower in France.
Among the brand’s standouts are the “Eclipse” bangle bracelets, which bring to mind another French jeweler, Cartier, and its ubiquitous Love bracelets.
The jewelry is crafted in 18-karat recycled white, yellow or rose gold and is manufactured in Europe—in Paris and Lyon, France as well as Milan—using craftsmen who make jewelry for other brands on Place Vendôme.
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
RELATED CONTENT: 4 Predictions on Retail and Diamond Desire in 2019
Courbet joins the growing roster of companies dealing in lab-grown diamonds.
Last year, De Beers launched Lightbox, and J.C. Penney and Macy’s both added the Richline-supported line “Grown With Love” just before the holidays.
Another Berkshire Hathaway-owned company, Helzberg, also has expanded its man-made diamond offerings.
The jeweler, which ranked as the eighth largest fine jeweler in terms of sales and the third largest in terms of size in National Jeweler’s 2018 “State of the Majors” report, started selling the “Light Heart” line late last year.
Helzberg Diamonds first experimented with lab-grown offerings in 2015, testing pink, yellow and white stones from Scio and Renaissance Diamonds, though it dropped the line shortly after.
The North Kansas City, Missouri-based chain also carries man-made diamonds from Altr.
Last year, De Beers launched Lightbox, and J.C. Penney and Macy’s both added the Richline-supported line “Grown With Love” just before the holidays.
Another Berkshire Hathaway-owned company, Helzberg, also has expanded its man-made diamond offerings.
The jeweler, which ranked as the eighth largest fine jeweler in terms of sales and the third largest in terms of size in National Jeweler’s 2018 “State of the Majors” report, started selling the “Light Heart” line late last year.
Helzberg Diamonds first experimented with lab-grown offerings in 2015, testing pink, yellow and white stones from Scio and Renaissance Diamonds, though it dropped the line shortly after.
The North Kansas City, Missouri-based chain also carries man-made diamonds from Altr.
More on Sourcing
The Latest
ColumnistsMar 18, 2025
Peter Smith: The Importance of Culture in HiringSmith explores why a qualified candidate might still not be right for the job.
Events & AwardsMar 18, 2025
Fink’s Jewelers Is Now a Regional Emmy WinnerThe company and its marketing agency, Loudr, were recognized for the “Make You Dance” marketing campaign.
Brought to you by
Watch: GIA Field Gemology at the One-Hundredth Expedition: A Look Back and to the FutureSupplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA
WatchesMar 18, 2025
Citizen Announces New Modern Luxury Watch CategoryThe “Series8” and “Attesa” collections will be grouped under Citizen Premier.
Weekly QuizMar 14, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
MajorsMar 18, 2025
Borsheims Names New Assistant IT ManagerDavid Fager, a former systems engineer at the retailer, was promoted to the role.
Events & AwardsMar 17, 2025
Gem Awards Honor All Facets of the IndustryFrom retailers to designers and the media, the fine jewelry industry recognized one another’s work and looked to the future.
Brought to you by
Natural Diamonds Should Mean MoreNatural diamonds mean more than lab-grown, but when every cut is ideal, they all look the same. Customers want more—Facets of Fire delivers.
Events & AwardsMar 17, 2025
GIA Names Winner of Emerging Jewelry Design Talent AwardEleanor H. Yeh is the recipient of the eighth annual Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation Award for Excellence in Jewelry Design.
MajorsMar 17, 2025
Tous Names U.S. Managing Director, VPJoseph Cavalcante takes on the dual role as the Spanish jewelry brand looks to expand further into the U.S. market.
Events & AwardsMar 17, 2025
CBG Expands Las Vegas Show to 3 DaysThe trade show has also upgraded its venue to the Caesars Forum Conference Center.
IndependentsMar 14, 2025
Stafford’s Diamonds in Ohio to Close After 40 YearsThe Dayton-based jeweler, which has been in business since 1985, was formerly known as Stafford Jewelers.
Events & AwardsMar 14, 2025
JVC Reveals Recipient of Stanley Schechter AwardReeds Jewelers CEO Alan Zimmer will be presented with the honor at JVC’s annual luncheon.
CollectionsMar 14, 2025
Piece of the Week: Sorellina’s Aries Zodiac PendantThe piece, celebrating birthdays from March 21 to April 19, debuted with Sorellina’s new line of astrological pendants.
MajorsMar 13, 2025
Tanishq Opens 2 New Stores in the U.S.The Indian jewelry brand recently opened stores in Atlanta and Seattle.
FinancialsMar 13, 2025
Brilliant Earth’s 2024 Sales Struggled Amid Engagement RecoveryCEO Beth Gerstein shared its most popular price points, what’s trending in non-bridal fine jewelry, and its holiday performance.
CollectionsMar 13, 2025
Chopard Unveils High Jewelry Collection Created From 6,225-Carat Emerald The 15 pieces were crafted from the “Insofu” emerald, discovered in Zambia in 2010.
MajorsMar 13, 2025
Jewelers Mutual Names New CFO, TreasurerChris Anderson is joining the insurance provider as the new chief financial officer and treasurer.
Lab-GrownMar 13, 2025
JA Offering Some ‘Counter Intelligence’ on Diamonds Jewelers of America is distributing a brochure for retailers to use when discussing the differences between natural and lab-grown diamonds.
Lab-GrownMar 12, 2025
Beyond Jewelry: Possibilities in the Lab-Grown Diamond SectorAs lab-grown diamond brands pop up across India, academics are researching how to grow demand outside of the jewelry industry.
SourcingMar 12, 2025
Indian Leader, Retailer Among 2025 DDG Honorees Govind Dholakia and Tanishq will be recognized for their contributions to the industry at the Diamonds Do Good Awards in Las Vegas.
IndependentsMar 12, 2025
Marla Aaron Migrates to LondonThe New York City-based brand has opened its first U.K. location with a permanent shop-in-shop at Liberty in London.
AuctionsMar 12, 2025
A Medieval Bishop’s Sapphire Ring Is Going Up for SaleA metal detectorist discovered the ring that is believed to have belonged to a bishop in the late 12th to early 13th century.
Events & AwardsMar 12, 2025
JA New York Announces Education, Live Demo LineupsOrganizers looked to new partnerships and interactive experiences to enhance the spring show, set for March 16 to 18.
Events & AwardsMar 12, 2025
Bogolo Joy Kenewendo to Speak at Annual JVC LuncheonKenewendo, Botswana’s minister of minerals and energy, will discuss the future of diamonds.
CrimeMar 11, 2025
Man in Florida Swallows Allegedly Stolen Tiffany & Co. Jewelry The suspect allegedly stole almost $800,000 worth of diamond jewelry from a store in Orlando and then swallowed it during a traffic stop.
ColumnistsMar 11, 2025
Creative Connecting: How to Pose on the Red CarpetAhead of the Gem Awards on Friday, Jen Cullen Williams and Duvall O’Steen share pro tips for taking the best photos.
