Editors

20 Designers to Watch in 2020 and Beyond: The Color Kids

EditorsJan 13, 2020

20 Designers to Watch in 2020 and Beyond: The Color Kids

In the first installment of a five-part series, Senior Editor Ashley Davis shines a light on creatives with an eye for color.

20200113_ArticleHeader.jpg
Rings by Selim Mouzannar

While earlier decades of jewelry design belonged to iconic houses like Tiffany & Co., Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, history will remember the 2000s for the ascendance of the independent jewelry brand.

The aforementioned jewelry giants remain household names but in the tenuous relationship between art and commerce, business always wins, often at the cost of creativity.

A true design lover is better off turning her or his attention to the vast array of artists creating for their own brands.

And the amount is vast, with designers often complaining of market saturation (as well as the ubiquity of copycats).  

With independent labels becoming the new norm, a wave of artistry thrives, with the standout brands that much more impressive for carving out a spot in a crowded marketplace.

And, it’s important to mention, the majority of today’s independent fine jewelry companies are headed by women, a significant anomaly to other industries and a major shift for fine jewelry.

National Jeweler often begins a new year with a list of relevant trends or designers to watch over the coming months, but the dawn of a new decade calls for a more elaborate approach.

With input from industry insiders, I’ve selected 20 designers I’ll be looking to over the next decade—brands I believe to have longevity, that have demonstrated they are directional, original and firm in their creative identities.

They are also designers who influence their pool of contemporaries, often, unfortunately, spawning imitators, but nevertheless forging ahead with their own ideas.  

Of course, it wasn’t easy to narrow the list to 20, but these brands fit the particular criteria of having already established their creative prowess, yet likely haven’t reached their full potential, meaning we anticipate so much more from them in the 2020s.

Below, see the first of our five-part series, which shines a light on the fine jewelry designers with an eye for color. 

The Color Kids: Brent Neale, Polly Wales, Retrouvaí, Selim Mouzannar

Brent Neale
Designer: Brent Neale Winston
Founded: 2017
Based In: New York
Key Retailers: Twist, Hirshleifers, Forty Five Ten

How could such a new brand display such an assured sense of self?

For Brent Neale’s Brent Neale Winston it meant taking the long road, studying at FIT and working for eight years under Kara Ross.

Today, many fine jewelry brands count whimsical or tongue-in-cheek motifs as their design signature, but Winston is

the one who makes them elegant.

Rainbows and marijuana leaves, or sea shells, hearts and mushrooms, become evening-appropriate when interpreted through the lens of Winston’s excellent taste.

Her joie de vivre is aided by lots of color—chalcedony, carnelian and malachite, as well as every shade of sapphire. Her modern take on a “gypsy ring,” in which she combines different gemstones in chunky gold rings, are ultra-covetable.   

“In just a few years, Brent has created her own, distinct visual language,” noted jewelry editor, stylist and consultant Kareem Rashed.

“It’s bold and playful but also super-wearable — who else could have made gem-studded mushrooms a thing? She really gets how to make fine jewelry that speaks to the next generation of collectors.”

Polly Wales
Founded: 2010
Based In: Los Angeles
Key Retailers: Tomfoolery, Greenwich St Jewelers, ABC Carpet & Home, Twist 

Wunderkind Polly Wales is synonymous with her cast-not-set technique, which is exactly what it sounds like: a process the British designer has refined in which diamonds and gemstones are cast directly in gold.

The resulting effect is primordial, captivating and unusual, about as strong of a design signature as one could create; there’s simply no mistaking another designer’s work for Polly Wales.  

Despite her technique’s specificity, she continuously breathes fresh life into her eponymous line with highly technical creations, the most impressive of which are usually unveiled at the annual Couture jewelry trade show in Las Vegas.

In these she expresses her incredible color mastery, mixing complementary shades or the entire rainbow in museum-worthy pieces.

"Polly has such a special and unique point of view," said Jennifer Gach, who first encountered the brand during her long tenure as an accessories editor at ELLE Magazine, before working with the designer in her current role as IHPR jewelry director.

"She has a signature style that is all her own, and her evolution over the last few years has been so exciting to watch. I love that each piece is one-of-a-kind and made with so much love."

Retrouvaí
Designer: Kirsty Stone
Founded: 2015
Based In: Los Angeles
Key Retailers: Ylang23, ETC (Aspen and Birmingham), Browns

Retrouvaí’s Kirsty Stone is arguably the leader of the current inlay trend, employing materials like rhodochrosite, lapis lazuli and turquoise to create large, vibrant color palettes.

These opaque materials are at their most alluring when coupled with faceted gemstones, as in Stone’s “Lollipop” rings and pendants, each of which is one-of-a-kind.

The Canadian designer has found her footing in a relatively short period of time, with her highly personal collection of heirloom-esque jewels that reinterpret signet rings and vintage styles in a modern way while retaining an old-fashioned sweetness and femininity.

Dallas, and Forth Worth, Texas boutique Ylang 23’s Alysa Teichman said of the brand: “I continue to be taken by Kirsty Stone’s evolution since we first saw her work at our emerging designer’s competition TheNextNow in 2016.

“Her icons and use of color get better and better, and we can’t wait to see the direction Retrouvaí heads.”

Selim Mouzannar
Founded: 1993
Based In: Beirut, Lebanon
Key Retailers: Bergdorf Goodman, Elyse Walker, Marissa Collections, Broken English

Lebanese designer Selim Mouzannar descends from a long jewelry legacy, but puts a contemporary spin on his eponymous collection’s old-world sophistication.

The designer transforms everyday fine jewelry basics—a stud earring, a solitaire stacking ring—into conversation pieces through his intricate detailing and excellent craftsmanship, featuring clusters of diamonds and colored gemstones.

His penchant for color is exemplified by recent creations coupling colored gems with enamel.

“His use of color is some of the most impressive I’ve seen to date,” said Teichman. “The enamel shades he selects for his collection in combination with different gemstones makes for an innovative, fresh approach.”

Mouzannar’s expertise is even better showcased in larger, one-of-a-kind jewels, in which he continues to play with the many possibilities of combining color, from the reserved to the daring.

“He leverages his family’s decades of jewelry-making experience in Lebanon to introduce a new approach to color each season with second-to-none quality.”

Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

Dana J. Lorberg
MajorsNov 04, 2024
Jewelers Mutual Appoints Mastercard Exec to Its Board

Dana J. Lorberg brings 35 years of experience in finance, technology, and strategy to the role.

FBI robbery surveillance photo
CrimeNov 04, 2024
FBI Offering $15K Reward for Info on Halloween Mask-Wearing Robbers

The suspects are said to have been involved in the armed robberies of four jewelry stores across three Midwest states.

Models wearing Black Sand Pebble ring and Surf bracelet
CollectionsNov 04, 2024
John Hardy’s New Jewels Turn the Black Sands of Bali into Diamonds

The new designs blend Creative Director Reed Krakoff’s aesthetic with the brand’s Balinese roots.

Jewelers Mutual Group Cybersecurity
Brought to you by
Navigating Cybersecurity: Essential Guidance for Jewelers

From protecting customer data to safeguarding inventory records, it's crucial to learn how to tackle cybersecurity challenges.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute watch
IndependentsNov 04, 2024
Eiseman Jewels is Celebrating Watches All Month-Long

The Dallas-based jeweler will showcase timepieces from Cartier, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Parmigiani Fleurier, and more.

Weekly QuizOct 31, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Artist Reena Ahluwalia “Pristine” painting
SourcingNov 01, 2024
Reena Ahluwalia Donates Diamond Painting to Benefit CJA

The artwork, titled “Pristine,” was raffled off at the Canadian Jewellers Association’s recent summit.

Gunderson’s Jewelers in Omaha, Nebraska
IndependentsNov 01, 2024
Gunderson’s Jewelers Opens New Location in Nebraska

The new store features a custom design studio and a bridal salon.

Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Enhance Your Expertise with IGI’s In-Person Courses in NYC

This fall, sharpen your skills in jewelry grading, quality control and diamond assessment.

Sydney Evan x Wicked “Spell Book” coin charm
CollectionsNov 01, 2024
Piece of the Week: Sydney Evan Gets ‘Wicked’

Designer Rosanne Karmes has created a collection to coincide with the release of the movie musical, which is expected to be a blockbuster.

Charles & Colvard moissanite ring
FinancialsOct 31, 2024
Charles & Colvard Faces Possible Nasdaq Delisting

The retailer said it will file the necessary paperwork to regain compliance as soon as it is able.

National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsOct 31, 2024
Peter Smith: Nervous Flyers and Emotional Selling

Whether you’re calming the jittery gentleman in seat 13B or selling a diamond ring to a hesitant customer, an empathetic approach is best.

Annie E. Doresca, Grant Mobley, Alexis Padis, Terry Chandler
Events & AwardsOct 31, 2024
WJA Will Celebrate 4 Award Winners at ‘Future of Forty’ Gala

The gala includes a red carpet, music from DJ Renata, an awards program, and “mystery boxes.”

Instore show 2025
Events & AwardsOct 31, 2024
The Instore Show Returns To Chicago Area

The trade show, in its third year, will take place in late September at the Donald E. Stephens Convention Center in Rosemont, Illinois.

Constance Polamalu
Lab-GrownOct 31, 2024
Q&A: Constance Polamalu on Selling Natural and Lab-Grown Diamonds

The jeweler shared her change of heart on lab-grown diamonds and why she keeps them separate from natural diamonds in her business ventures.

Gem Awards New York City
Events & AwardsOct 30, 2024
These Designers, Journalists, and Retailers Are Up for a Gem Award

The 2025 Gem Awards are scheduled to take place March 14 at Cipriani 42nd Street in New York City.

Peggy Grosz
MajorsOct 30, 2024
Peggy Grosz Leaves Assael After Company Is Sold

Grosz had served as Assael’s senior vice president and creative director since 2017.

CD Peacock Love and Celebration Rings
CollectionsOct 30, 2024
CD Peacock Honors Its Hometown of Chicago in First Bridal Collection

“Love and Celebration” is the jeweler’s first in-house collection featuring engagement rings, wedding bands, and celebration rings.

Hands pushing a shopping cart
SurveysOct 30, 2024
Consumer Confidence Rebounds in October

A more positive view of the labor market contributed to the strongest monthly gain since March 2021.

Mejuri store
Events & AwardsOct 30, 2024
Mejuri to Award $50K in Scholarships to Jewelry Design Students

The funds will be distributed to schools in the U.S., Canada, and the U.K.

Jewelers’ Security Alliance President Jennifer Mulvihill
MajorsOct 29, 2024
Cybersecurity Expert Selected as President of Jewelers’ Security Alliance

Jennifer Mulvihill, the first woman to lead JSA in the organization’s 141-year history, takes over for the retiring John Kennedy.

20241030_NYCJW.jpg
Events & AwardsOct 29, 2024
The Can’t-Miss Events of 2024 New York City Jewelry Week

This year’s festivities include more than 100 experiences, such as designer showcases, panel discussions, and even a treasure hunt.

Edgar Mitchell’s Rolex GMT-Master Pepsi
AuctionsOct 29, 2024
Rolex Worn on Apollo 14 Mission Sells for More Than $2M

The GMT-Master “Pepsi” that belonged to astronaut Edgar Mitchell is one of two Apollo-flown Rolex watches ever sold at auction.

Pandora ambassadors Chloe Bailey, Halle Bailey, and Pamela Anderson
MajorsOct 29, 2024
Pandora’s Holiday Campaign, New Jewelry Celebrate Light and Love

The ads star brand ambassadors Chloe and Halle Bailey and Pamela Anderson.

Stock image of a diamond engagement ring
SourcingOct 29, 2024
De Beers’ Production Drops 25% as Demand Remains Sluggish

The company combined two sights in Q3 due to the slowdown in demand, and said it is moving up the dates for sights 9 and 10 in Q4.

Jewelers for Children Rock the Costume Showdown graphic
MajorsOct 28, 2024
Jewelers for Children’s Halloween Costume Contest Rocks

Participants can buy five votes for $5 to decide which jeweler will dress up as an ‘80s rockstar for Halloween.

Katy Briscoe carved indicolite Persian cat ring
TrendsOct 28, 2024
Amanda’s Spooky Style File

These 15 pieces of jewelry hand-picked ahead of Halloween appeal to the costume- and candy-loving child in all of us.

Executives at the Bulgari Ritz Carlton ribbon cutting ceremony
MajorsOct 25, 2024
This New Bulgari Boutique Is on a Yacht

Starboard Luxury is bringing the Italian brand aboard The Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection’s newest yacht.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy