CollectionsFeb 21, 2025
Piece of the Week: Jade Ruzzo’s ‘Tennessee’ Oval Drop EarringsHeidi Gardner, an SNL cast member, wore the smoky quartz earrings on the “SNL50: The Anniversary Special” red carpet on Sunday.
SurveysJan 25, 2019
The Industry Shrank by 4% Last Year, JBT Data Shows
A healthy number of new jewelry businesses opened in North America in 2018, but not enough to offset the number of companies that closed.
Warwick, R.I.—A healthy number of new jewelry businesses opened in North America in 2018, but not enough to offset the number of companies—whether retail, wholesale or manufacturing—that closed, year-end data from the Jewelers Board of Trade shows.
The result is that the industry continued to get smaller, a trend JBT President Richard Weisenfeld said will continue for the foreseeable future, particularly among retailers.
“There is going to be a steady decrease in the number of jewelers,” he said in an interview Thursday. “As that slows down over the course of the next decade, I think what we’ll be left with in the jewelry industry is well-managed stores and well-placed manufacturers that produce the right product for the right price.”
At the end of 2018, the JBT’s listings for jewelry retailers, wholesalers and manufacturers in North America totaled 26,365, a 4 percent drop from 27,551 in 2017.
The number of retailers was down by the same percentage, shrinking from 20,757 to 19,906.
In tracking businesses exiting the industry, the JBT breaks down what it refers to as jewelry business “discontinuances” into three categories: businesses that ceased operations (closed), consolidated via a sale or merger, or filed for bankruptcy.
While the JBT saw a dramatic spike in bankruptcies during the Great Recession, the story the past few years has been jewelers closing their stores, and that continued in 2018.
JBT data shows that 738 retailers closed in North America last year, a 5 percent increase from the 706 who closed in 2017.
The United States lost 706 retailers, up 4 percent from 678 in 2017.
The region of the U.S. with the most retail closures was the Southeast at 202, followed by the Northeast (162) and the Southwest at 117.
The Northwest recorded the fewest number of jewelry store shutdowns (21), though it should be noted that regional trends for store closures do, to an extent, correlate to population; there are more closures in regions where there are more people and, therefore, more stores to begin with.
In the JBT’s regional breakdown, the Northwest includes some of the country’s most sparsely populated states, such as Alaska, Montana and Wyoming, while the Southeast and Northeast include some of the most crowded, states like Florida, New York and Pennsylvania.
Weisenfeld allowed that a portion of the industry shrinkage is attributable to the fact that not all new businesses are joining the JBT.
He
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
said there are probably thousands of small jewelry businesses out there that sell online, through social media and/or in non-traditional retail spaces, like showrooms and craft fairs, and conduct their business using credit cards or mobile payment systems like Venmo. They don’t see the need to join JBT.
However, he said, most of the industry shrinkage is due to the closure of traditional brick-and-mortar stores, which fall into two categories.
First, those are the stores that want to stay in business but are struggling due to factors such as having the wrong lines, being in a bad location or in an area with a shrinking population. Weisenfeld said they opt to do a going-out-of-business sale and set off in a different direction, or open a new store somewhere else.
Then those are those well-run operations with solid market share that carry better brands but have owners who are in their late 60s or early 70s and want to retire. Their children might help at the store, Weisenfeld said, but they don’t want to be the owners; they don’t like the hours or the income potential.
“It’s just not the lifestyle that kids want these days. The idea of being in a store six days a week … is just not what they are looking for.”
Jewelry business consolidations and bankruptcies—the other two forms of business discontinuances tracked by JBT—also rose slightly between 2017 and 2018.
There were 157 consolidations among retailers, wholesalers and manufacturers in North America in 2018, up from 151 the year before, and 34 bankruptcies, up from 29 in 2017.
New businesses in North America, meanwhile, totaled 230, up from 166 in 2017, a 39 percent increase.
In the U.S., there were 183 new retailers last year (up from 131 in 2017), 24 new wholesalers (up from 13) and 15 new manufacturers (up from 12).
However, he said, most of the industry shrinkage is due to the closure of traditional brick-and-mortar stores, which fall into two categories.
First, those are the stores that want to stay in business but are struggling due to factors such as having the wrong lines, being in a bad location or in an area with a shrinking population. Weisenfeld said they opt to do a going-out-of-business sale and set off in a different direction, or open a new store somewhere else.
Then those are those well-run operations with solid market share that carry better brands but have owners who are in their late 60s or early 70s and want to retire. Their children might help at the store, Weisenfeld said, but they don’t want to be the owners; they don’t like the hours or the income potential.
“It’s just not the lifestyle that kids want these days. The idea of being in a store six days a week … is just not what they are looking for.”
Jewelry business consolidations and bankruptcies—the other two forms of business discontinuances tracked by JBT—also rose slightly between 2017 and 2018.
There were 157 consolidations among retailers, wholesalers and manufacturers in North America in 2018, up from 151 the year before, and 34 bankruptcies, up from 29 in 2017.
New businesses in North America, meanwhile, totaled 230, up from 166 in 2017, a 39 percent increase.
In the U.S., there were 183 new retailers last year (up from 131 in 2017), 24 new wholesalers (up from 13) and 15 new manufacturers (up from 12).
More on Surveys
The Latest
SourcingFeb 21, 2025
Zambia Lifts 15% Export Duty on Gemstones, Metals The reversal comes less than two months after the Zambian government reinstated the tax in an effort to bring in more money.
MajorsFeb 21, 2025
24 Karat Club of New York Names New PresidentThe organization also announced its newly elected officers and directors.
Brought to you by
Get Ready for the JA New York Spring ShowThis year will feature a new MJSA Showcase and partnership with Piazza Italia.
SourcingFeb 20, 2025
Anglo Writes Down Value of De Beers by $2.9B As anticipated, Anglo took another impairment charge on the diamond miner and marketer, which saw revenue sink 23 percent in 2024.
Weekly QuizFeb 21, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SourcingFeb 20, 2025
Harry Winston’s Son Donates Fancy Red Diamond to the SmithsonianRonald Winston is giving the 2.33-carat “Winston Red” to the Smithsonian, 67 years after his father donated the Hope Diamond.
SourcingFeb 20, 2025
GJEPC Names New Chairman, Vice ChairmanKirit Bhansali, a partner in Smital Gems and chairman of India Jewellery Park, will take on the role of chairman.
Brought to you by
3 Ways to Capitalize on America’s Newfound Love of Colored GemsColored stones are stepping into a jewelry spotlight typically reserved for diamonds—are you ready to sell color?
IndependentsFeb 20, 2025
IJO Elects 4 New Board MembersAlisha Cornett, Nic Faini, Eric Stevens, and Seth Shipley have joined the organization’s board of directors for a three-year term.
CrimeFeb 19, 2025
Brink’s to Pay $42M After Admitting to Illegally Transporting MoneyThe company has to pay the Justice Department and FinCEN for violating the Bank Secrecy Act, the U.S.’s main anti-money laundering law.
SourcingFeb 19, 2025
Diamond Mining Company CEO Steps Down Amid Sales Slump, LayoffsPetra Diamonds Ltd. CEO Richard Duffy resigned as the diamond miner reported a 30 percent drop in sales to start its fiscal year.
ColumnistsFeb 19, 2025
The Smart Lab: Maximizing Your Jewelry Brand on PinterestPinterest is a potential gold mine for jewelry brands, Emmanuel Raheb writes, provided they follow these five tips.
MajorsFeb 19, 2025
Cartier Opens New Store Inside LAXThe boutique is the French luxury brand’s first airport store on the West Coast.
CollectionsFeb 19, 2025
Swarovski’s NYC Flagship Celebrates Ariana Grande CollabThe store’s facade now features the iconic swan logo and campaign images of the “Wicked” star.
Policies & IssuesFeb 18, 2025
New Customs Requirements for Diamond Imports: What We KnowBeginning in April, companies importing diamonds into the United States will have to list the country in which the diamonds were mined.
AuctionsFeb 18, 2025
A Menagerie of Fabergé Coming to Sotheby’sAround 30 whimsical Fabergé animal carvings will go up for auction at Sotheby’s Geneva in May.
SourcingFeb 18, 2025
Celine Assimon Stepping Down as CEO of De Beers JewellersAssimon will be leaving at the end of February after nearly five years with De Beers.
CollectionsFeb 18, 2025
Tabayer Debuts Its First Men’s Jewelry SelectionsDesigns from the brand’s “Oera” collection have been reimagined with modern masculinity in mind.
SourcingFeb 14, 2025
Navneet Gems Now Offering Unheated Montana SapphiresThe wholesale collection features material from the Rock Creek mine in a variety of colors.
CollectionsFeb 14, 2025
Carolyn Rafaelian Partners with ‘Long Island Medium’ StarThe “Divinely Guided” collection, created in collaboration with Theresa Caputo, features symbols that celebrate the power of connection.
CollectionsFeb 14, 2025
Piece of the Week: Lorraine West’s Diamond ‘Open Heart’ RingShow some love on Valentine’s Day with this 14-karat yellow gold ring that features pavé diamonds.
CrimeFeb 13, 2025
Macy’s Employee Foils $1.5M Jewelry Theft The employee confronted the thief, causing the suspect to flee and leave behind the suitcases full of jewelry.
SourcingFeb 13, 2025
Namibian Diamond Co. Suspends CEO, COO After Deadly Heist Namib Desert Diamonds also put its security manager on leave following last month’s robbery that left one employee dead.
Events & AwardsFeb 13, 2025
AGTA Announces Buyer’s Choice Award Winners for Spectrum, Cutting EdgeAGTA recently concluded its 2025 GemFair event in Tucson and is already gearing up for next year’s show, set for Feb. 2-6, 2026.
CollectionsFeb 13, 2025
Royal Chain Releases Its Spring 2025 CatalogMore than 400 new pieces are featured in the supplier’s latest catalog.
TrendsFeb 13, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Hearts for Valentine’s DayThis curation celebrates love with heart-shaped jewelry of all shapes and sizes.
Policies & IssuesFeb 13, 2025
Jewelers Relief Fund Reopened to Aid Victims of LA Fires The fund is collecting money for jewelry businesses damaged by the wildfires in Los Angeles County.
