IndependentsAug 14, 2026
Smyth Jewelers to Open Fourth LocationThe family-owned jeweler will open a new showroom in Bel Air, Maryland, this fall.
TrendsOct 22, 2018
Jewelry Brand to Know: Studio Rua
Founded by an antiques dealer, this new line takes inspiration from ancient art and technique.
Designer Ruth Leach utilizes the lost wax casting technique to create jewelry in which one can see “traces of the maker.”
London—Vintage and antique jewelry dealer Ruth Leach spent nearly 13 years in the business before seriously pursuing her jewelry-making hobby.
The resulting Studio Rua, launched over only the last few months is, naturally, inspired by antique adornment but not from any era she sells. Instead, ancient jewelry inspires Leach, due to both its focus on symbols and its erudite, handmade quality.
“One thing that’s very important for me,” she explained, “is the ability to visually see in the pieces the maker and the traces of the maker. I work with a lot of red wax, which means you can see the fingerprints and a lot of the tool marks in the finished pieces, and you see that a lot in ancient art and ancient jewelry. I’m really interested in kind of keeping that sense of the maker in the piece.”
Having taken silver-smithing courses in the past, Leach embarked on learning the lost wax carving technique in April through a five-week course in London’s Hatton Garden jewelry district.
“My jewelry buying background is much longer than my actual jewelry making background,” Leach said. “I’m still brand-new to jewelry designing and jewelry making.”
Leach’s novice status works to her benefit in creating pieces that feel primitive, imperfect and most importantly, handcrafted.
“Lost wax casting is a process that’s been used for thousands of years by many different cultures so by using that I think it helps give a lovely tactile, handmade quality,” she explained, citing ancient Egyptian, Greek and Roman jewelry as her biggest inspiration.
The symbols Leach gravitates toward are astrological, celestial and figurative. Her mix of pendants, cocktail and signet rings depict suns, stars, zodiac signs and faces, the latter of which is most interesting to the designer.
“At the moment I’m loving faces and figurative jewelry. (My work) is simple and quite classic. I want pieces that will become go-to pieces in someone’s wardrobe, and that go with a lot of other pieces and possess a sense of the artisan with a nod to ancient traditions.”
The Studio Rua Instagram account has only been active since August, and the website launched at the end of September, but already, Leach’s work is resonating with consumers. Independent boutiques began inquiring about orders before the website even
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
went up, and Leach has been working on several commissions from clients who message her directly through Instagram.
Working in bronze makes Studio Rua jewelry an easy purchase—the entire line currently retails for under $260 per current exchange rates. Bronze appeals to Leach for its warm, gold-like color, and its economic accessibility makes it the perfect medium for learning as she goes and creating large pieces.
Bronze is also ideal for creating work affordable to modern women like herself who buy their own jewelry.
“I buy a lot of jewelry for myself and invest in contemporary pieces I love, so I wanted to make sure it was priced in a range that if I was looking at it I would say, ‘I can afford that,’ basically. I wanted to place it in the marketplace at a price that’s not unreachable.”
Leach’s aim going forward is to establish herself with a couple of wholesale accounts while refining the work she’s making now, honing her key pieces rather than creating lots of different collections.
She’s also interested in working with solid gold in the future and currently uses 18-karat gold plate for specific bespoke pieces. Stone-setting is also on the agenda for the fledgling brand; Leach has a particular interest in lapis lazuli and gray, rose-cut diamonds.
Find Studio Rua on Instagram or its website.
Working in bronze makes Studio Rua jewelry an easy purchase—the entire line currently retails for under $260 per current exchange rates. Bronze appeals to Leach for its warm, gold-like color, and its economic accessibility makes it the perfect medium for learning as she goes and creating large pieces.
Bronze is also ideal for creating work affordable to modern women like herself who buy their own jewelry.
“I buy a lot of jewelry for myself and invest in contemporary pieces I love, so I wanted to make sure it was priced in a range that if I was looking at it I would say, ‘I can afford that,’ basically. I wanted to place it in the marketplace at a price that’s not unreachable.”
Leach’s aim going forward is to establish herself with a couple of wholesale accounts while refining the work she’s making now, honing her key pieces rather than creating lots of different collections.
She’s also interested in working with solid gold in the future and currently uses 18-karat gold plate for specific bespoke pieces. Stone-setting is also on the agenda for the fledgling brand; Leach has a particular interest in lapis lazuli and gray, rose-cut diamonds.
View this post on InstagramOut and about with my new little friend #studio_rua
A post shared by S T U D I O R U A (@studio_rua) on Oct 21, 2018 at 1:21pm PDT
Find Studio Rua on Instagram or its website.
More on Trends
The Latest
CrimeAug 14, 2026
Wife of Man Convicted in Jeweler’s Murder Sentenced for Conspiracy Amanda Ileana Hernandez is married to Carlos Hernandez, one of two men in prison for the 2024 murder of Michigan jeweler Hussein Murray.
Supplier BulletinAug 13, 2026
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk AboutSponsored by American Gem Trade Association
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying EventsRetailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.
FinancialsAug 13, 2026
Pandora’s ‘Talisman’ Collection Shines, Lab-Grown Diamond Sales FallIn the United States, second-quarter sales were flat amid soft consumer sentiment and lower in-store traffic.
Weekly QuizAug 13, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
AuctionsAug 13, 2026
This Gold Cadbury ‘Conundrum’ Egg Set a World Auction RecordThe 22-karat gold egg, sold at Batemans Auctioneers in the U.K., was part of a 1980s treasure hunt ad campaign for Cadbury Creme Eggs.
SourcingAug 13, 2026
2,488-Carat Diamond, Largest Found in Botswana, Has a New Owner Lucara Diamond Corp., which recovered the “Motswedi” diamond from the Karowe mine, sold the stone for an undisclosed amount.
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center StageColored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.
CollectionsAug 13, 2026
John Hardy Infuses ‘Icon,’ ‘Heishi’ Collections with ColorThe expanded collections now feature hand-cut gemstones like topaz, tanzanite, chrysoprase, chalcedony, smoky quartz, and fire opal.
Lab-GrownAug 13, 2026
Jean Dousset Opens Third StoreThe lab-grown diamond jewelry brand’s newest boutique is in Westfield Valley Fair in Santa Clara, California.
SourcingAug 12, 2026
Eshed-Gemstar on the Painstaking Process of Cutting ‘The Legacy Emerald’The gemstone supplier and manufacturer acquired the remarkable 104-gram Zambian emerald at Gemfields’ auction in May.
CrimeAug 12, 2026
Elderly NYC Woman Targeted in Jewelry Swap SchemeTwo suspects offered to trade the woman a “winning” lottery ticket for her jewelry.
SourcingAug 12, 2026
Another Diamond Mine Poised to CloseFinsch has been in business rescue since May, and owner Petra Diamonds said it sees no viable path forward for the mine.
CrimeAug 12, 2026
Jewelry Store Employee Gets 20 Years to Life in Choking Death of BossMichel Patrick DeSalles was sentenced after pleading guilty to the 2017 murder of Omid Gholian, who owned a jewelry store in Manhattan.
MajorsAug 12, 2026
Frederick Goldman Names New SVP of SalesLongtime industry executive Beth Miller has taken on the role.
AuctionsAug 11, 2026
Verdura Unicorn Brooch With Royal Connection Up for Auction The brooch was owned by Virginia Fortune Ryan Ogilvy, who served as a lady of the bedchamber to Queen Elizabeth II for nearly 50 years.
MajorsAug 11, 2026
Signet Jewelers Selects Mattel Exec to Lead Zales, BanterJamie Cygielman will take on the role on Aug. 24.
IndependentsAug 11, 2026
Polly’s Fine Jewelry Co-Owner Richard Moore Dies at 69Moore, Polly’s husband, is remembered as a family man with an easygoing spirit and a love for sports and the outdoors.
ColumnistsAug 11, 2026
Creative Connecting: How to Sell Colored Gemstones to Gen ZDuvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams share the best ways to display, present, and explain colored gemstones to younger customers.
Events & AwardsAug 11, 2026
NAJA Announces Lineup For 2026 Fall Virtual ConferenceThe mid-year conference for jewelry and watch appraisers will take place Sept. 5-6 on Zoom.
TechnologyAug 10, 2026
Colorado Jeweler Launches Customization Tool He Built HimselfHonest Hands Ring Co. Founder Benjamin Bosworth shared his thoughts on jewelry technology and why AI can never replace the human element.
MajorsAug 10, 2026
QVC Exits Chapter 11 Bankruptcy, Names New Interim CEOQVC Group President and CEO David Rawlinson is temporarily being replaced by a familiar face, former QVC CEO Mike George.
CollectionsAug 10, 2026
State Property Puts a Ripple in the ‘The Voyager’ CollectionThe brand also added two one-of-a-kind brown diamond pieces to the “Sanssouci” series of its “Gardens” collection.
MajorsAug 10, 2026
And IJO’s 2026 Vendor of the Year Is … Ostbye took home top vendor honors at the Independent Jewelers Organization’s show, held last month in Kentucky.
Supplier BulletinAug 07, 2026
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying EventsSponsored by Stratus Estate Buyers
MajorsAug 07, 2026
Retail Veteran Pam Cloud Appointed President of Blue NileCloud, who will officially join Blue Nile on Monday, spent 26 years at Tiffany & Co. and founded jewelry brand Roseate.
MajorsAug 07, 2026
Pandora Appoints Paulo Garcia as New CFO Garcia will take over from the company’s current CFO, Anders Boyer, who is retiring at the end of November.
