CollectionsJul 08, 2025
Mikimoto’s High Jewelry Collection Turns Pearls into PetalsThe “Les Pétales” collection imagines roses caught mid-bloom as a tribute to nature’s beauty.
TrendsOct 22, 2018
Jewelry Brand to Know: Studio Rua
Founded by an antiques dealer, this new line takes inspiration from ancient art and technique.
Designer Ruth Leach utilizes the lost wax casting technique to create jewelry in which one can see “traces of the maker.”
London—Vintage and antique jewelry dealer Ruth Leach spent nearly 13 years in the business before seriously pursuing her jewelry-making hobby.
The resulting Studio Rua, launched over only the last few months is, naturally, inspired by antique adornment but not from any era she sells. Instead, ancient jewelry inspires Leach, due to both its focus on symbols and its erudite, handmade quality.
“One thing that’s very important for me,” she explained, “is the ability to visually see in the pieces the maker and the traces of the maker. I work with a lot of red wax, which means you can see the fingerprints and a lot of the tool marks in the finished pieces, and you see that a lot in ancient art and ancient jewelry. I’m really interested in kind of keeping that sense of the maker in the piece.”
Having taken silver-smithing courses in the past, Leach embarked on learning the lost wax carving technique in April through a five-week course in London’s Hatton Garden jewelry district.
“My jewelry buying background is much longer than my actual jewelry making background,” Leach said. “I’m still brand-new to jewelry designing and jewelry making.”
Leach’s novice status works to her benefit in creating pieces that feel primitive, imperfect and most importantly, handcrafted.
“Lost wax casting is a process that’s been used for thousands of years by many different cultures so by using that I think it helps give a lovely tactile, handmade quality,” she explained, citing ancient Egyptian, Greek and Roman jewelry as her biggest inspiration.
The symbols Leach gravitates toward are astrological, celestial and figurative. Her mix of pendants, cocktail and signet rings depict suns, stars, zodiac signs and faces, the latter of which is most interesting to the designer.
“At the moment I’m loving faces and figurative jewelry. (My work) is simple and quite classic. I want pieces that will become go-to pieces in someone’s wardrobe, and that go with a lot of other pieces and possess a sense of the artisan with a nod to ancient traditions.”
The Studio Rua Instagram account has only been active since August, and the website launched at the end of September, but already, Leach’s work is resonating with consumers. Independent boutiques began inquiring about orders before the website even
went up, and Leach has been working on several commissions from clients who message her directly through Instagram.
Working in bronze makes Studio Rua jewelry an easy purchase—the entire line currently retails for under $260 per current exchange rates. Bronze appeals to Leach for its warm, gold-like color, and its economic accessibility makes it the perfect medium for learning as she goes and creating large pieces.
Bronze is also ideal for creating work affordable to modern women like herself who buy their own jewelry.
“I buy a lot of jewelry for myself and invest in contemporary pieces I love, so I wanted to make sure it was priced in a range that if I was looking at it I would say, ‘I can afford that,’ basically. I wanted to place it in the marketplace at a price that’s not unreachable.”
Leach’s aim going forward is to establish herself with a couple of wholesale accounts while refining the work she’s making now, honing her key pieces rather than creating lots of different collections.
She’s also interested in working with solid gold in the future and currently uses 18-karat gold plate for specific bespoke pieces. Stone-setting is also on the agenda for the fledgling brand; Leach has a particular interest in lapis lazuli and gray, rose-cut diamonds.
Find Studio Rua on Instagram or its website.
Working in bronze makes Studio Rua jewelry an easy purchase—the entire line currently retails for under $260 per current exchange rates. Bronze appeals to Leach for its warm, gold-like color, and its economic accessibility makes it the perfect medium for learning as she goes and creating large pieces.
Bronze is also ideal for creating work affordable to modern women like herself who buy their own jewelry.
“I buy a lot of jewelry for myself and invest in contemporary pieces I love, so I wanted to make sure it was priced in a range that if I was looking at it I would say, ‘I can afford that,’ basically. I wanted to place it in the marketplace at a price that’s not unreachable.”
Leach’s aim going forward is to establish herself with a couple of wholesale accounts while refining the work she’s making now, honing her key pieces rather than creating lots of different collections.
She’s also interested in working with solid gold in the future and currently uses 18-karat gold plate for specific bespoke pieces. Stone-setting is also on the agenda for the fledgling brand; Leach has a particular interest in lapis lazuli and gray, rose-cut diamonds.
View this post on InstagramOut and about with my new little friend #studio_rua
A post shared by S T U D I O R U A (@studio_rua) on Oct 21, 2018 at 1:21pm PDT
Find Studio Rua on Instagram or its website.
More on Trends
The Latest
ColumnistsJul 08, 2025
Peter Smith: Why Jewelers Struggle With Premium PricingLuxury brands charge thousands for their shoes and handbags. Jewelers pricing diamond products should take note, Peter Smith writes.
IndependentsJul 08, 2025
David Rotenberg of David Craig Jewelers Dies at 79Rotenberg was an active member of the American Gem Society and an accomplished appraiser who also worked with therapy dogs at a hospital.
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench JewelersThe Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.
TechnologyJul 08, 2025
‘Diamond Divas’ Brings the Showroom to Social Media Reality SeriesIt follows New York-based brand Shahla Karimi Jewelry’s all-women team in “Say Yes to the Dress” meets “The Office”-style episodes.
Weekly QuizJul 02, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Policies & IssuesJul 08, 2025
SMO Gold Launches New FoundationIn its inaugural year, the SMO Foundation will focus on supporting two organizations in West Africa and one in South America.
Policies & IssuesJul 07, 2025
Higher Tariffs Set to Take Effect Aug. 1, Officials SayThe announcement comes just as the 90-day freeze on the “reciprocal” tariffs nears its end, giving countries more time to negotiate.
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America is Headed to Las Vegas for JCK 2025The countdown is on for the JCK Las Vegas Show and JA is pulling out all the stops.
MajorsJul 07, 2025
Natural Diamond Council CEO David Kellie To Step DownKellie, who joined the organization in 2019, will remain in his role through the end of 2025.
CrimeJul 07, 2025
7 Suspects Charged in California Jewelry Store BurglaryPolice officers apprehended the suspects as they were allegedly attempting to gain entry into another jewelry store.
Events & AwardsJul 07, 2025
Applications Open for Ella Klein Internship The program, a collaboration between Julius Klein Diamonds and the Women’s Jewelry Association, is in its second year.
Supplier BulletinJul 03, 2025
Protect Your Customers and Your BusinessSponsored by the Gemological Institute of America
MajorsJul 03, 2025
Brilliant Earth Names Tennis Star Madison Keys as Its New AmbassadorThe 2025 Australian Open champion is the jewelry brand’s first athlete ambassador.
MajorsJul 03, 2025
Muse Sets Up Shop in Nordstrom’s New Jewelry HallThe West Village jewelry boutique’s new shop-in-shop is the cornerstone of Nordstrom’s revamped jewelry hall.
SourcingJul 03, 2025
SRK Announces Its Natural Diamonds Are Now Carbon-NegativeThis past year, the manufacturer said it recorded below-zero emissions per carat of natural diamond.
CollectionsJul 03, 2025
Piece of the Week: A Firework of Diamonds From YepremThe brand’s “Golden Strada” statement necklace features round, marquise, and pear diamonds that sparkle like Fourth of July fireworks.
CrimeJul 03, 2025
JSA Shares Holiday Weekend Security Tips Amid Spike in BurglariesJSA’s Scott Guginsky provided a list of nine security measures jewelers should observe while locking up for the long weekend.
MajorsJul 02, 2025
Boucheron Looks to LA for First West Coast FlagshipLocated on Rodeo Drive, the store’s design was inspired by Hollywood and Los Angeles culture.
MajorsJul 02, 2025
Marco Bicego Opens Milan FlagshipThe new location continues the brand’s celebration of its 25th anniversary.
WatchesJul 02, 2025
Chrono24 Revamps Brand, Launches New CampaignThe online watch marketplace’s “Time Is Our Thing” campaign highlights the importance of time.
SourcingJul 02, 2025
Bernadette Mack Joins Gem Legacy as Executive DirectorShe will oversee strategic planning, fundraising, industry partnerships, and the launch of the Gem Legacy Campus in Tanzania.
CrimeJul 02, 2025
Pandora, Amazon Partner to Uncover Counterfeit Jewelry NetworkWorking with Amazon’s Counterfeit Crimes Unit and law enforcement, Pandora helped to shut down a large-scale counterfeit network in China.
MajorsJul 01, 2025
Cast Closes Business, Plans for RelaunchThe jewelry company has closed its three California brick-and-mortar stores, as well as its online shop, for now.
Events & AwardsJul 01, 2025
William Goldberg Diamonds, FIT Partner for Apprenticeship ProgramThe company is providing the opportunity for an FIT student to work alongside master diamond cutter Willie Lopez in its workshop.
IndependentsJul 01, 2025
Elie Hannoush, Founder of Hannoush Jewelers, Dies at 73He is remembered for his successful entrepreneurship, generosity, and dedication to his family.
MajorsJul 01, 2025
Claire’s Is Looking for a Buyer, Report SaysThe jewelry store chain has reportedly been struggling with costs related to tariffs as well as tough retail competition.
CollectionsJun 30, 2025
State Property’s New Jewelry Tells ‘The Story of Everything’Co-founders Afzal Imram and Lin Ruiyin brought their son’s story of a cosmic egg, toadstool, and railroad to life in their new collection.
