This “Mother Father” spinner necklace from Heavenly Vices Fine Jewelry draws inspiration from Victorian Era jewelry.
Gemstone ‘Secrets’ Book Gets an Update
The second edition of gemologist Richard Wise’s best-selling Secrets of the Gem Trade: The Connoisseur’s Guide to Precious Gemstones is out today.

Lenox, Mass.--The colored gemstone market is dependent on a number of factors, and fluctuations in supply and demand mean that a lot can change in a decade’s time. 
For this reason, one author has given his book on the market an update. 
The second edition of gem expert Richard Wise’s Secrets of the Gem Trade: The Connoisseur’s Guide to Precious Gemstones, covering the criteria used by professionals to judge the quality and value of gemstones, is out now. 
Brunswick House Press first published the book in 2003, and it became a best-seller. Wise has been traveling and researching since then, slowly compiling new information and updates for the next copy of the book. 
“A number of things have changed in the gem world in the 14 years (since),” Wise told National Jeweler. “In a sense, the principles of connoisseurship and quality are immutable, right? They don’t change. On the other hand, what’s available in the market has changed.”
For example, the supply of rubies has changed greatly since he wrote the last book. At that time, Myanmar was the only real source. Now Madagascar has come online and is a major player in the trade, he said. 
What’s more, only some of the Madagascar rubies look like Burmese rubies, which means that the guide to evaluating the gem needed to be updated to differentiate between the types, as well as the types from a few other sources that have since emerged. 
He said that spinel has always been a “dealer’s stone”--they’ve been trying to sell it to people for years and not been able to do it.
“That all changed when Mahenge [Tanzania] came online, and the cobalt blues were discovered in North Vietnam. Now, all of a sudden, we have a 1,200 percent increase in the price of blue and pink and red spinels,” he said.
Wise added that the paradigm also has shifted on red spinel, as new sources produced stones that look less like rubies, which the market was familiar with, and have a greater saturation of color.
Additions also include sections on pearls--both natural nacreous pearls and conch pearls--which have seen a major resurgence since the last book was published, and a
Other stones added are moonstone, sunstone, colorless diamonds, Golconda or Type IIa diamonds, demantoid garnet, peridot and violet diamonds.
There also are five new introductory essays, including from the Gemological Institute of America’s Vincent Pardieu, and more than 100 new photographs.
Wise, who has visited most of the major and many of the minor gem-producing areas of the world, also authored The French Blue, in addition to having written many articles for publications like GIA’s Gems & Gemology, Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist and Colored Stone magazine.
The 404-page Secrets of the Gem Trade is $99.95, available at Amazon, Barnes & Noble and most other major book retailers.
More information about the guide also can be found on SecretsofTheGemTrade.com.
The Latest

The suspects were rounded up in Paris and its suburbs on Wednesday night, but none of the stolen jewels were recovered with them.

Experts share top tips on how to encourage positive reviews and handle negative feedback.

Sponsored by the Gemological Institute of America


The suspect faces charges in the August robbery of Menashe & Sons Jewelers and is accused of committing smash and grabs at two pawn shops.

The “Lumière Fine” collection was born from designer Alison Chemla’s interest in the transformative power of light.

From sunlit whites to smoky whiskeys, introduce your clients to extraordinary diamonds in colors as unique as their love.

Show off your spooky side with these 12 festive jewels.

The “Brilliant & Beyond” panel coincides with the “Love & Marriage” exhibition curated by Davis Jewelers in Louisville, Kentucky.

Consumers are feeling more optimistic about their present situation while the short-term future remains a little scary.

The company, which organizes a watch show in Geneva every spring, will bring a selection of watch brands to the 2026 Couture show in Vegas.

“The Modern Guide to Vintage Jewellery” follows the evolution of jewelry design from the ‘30s to the ‘80s with buying and styling advice.

For her annual Halloween story, Senior Editor Lenore Fedow explores the symbolism behind spiders, beetles, and other eerie insects.

Notable jewelry designers, members of the press, and retailers are up for an award at next year’s gala.

Leaders from Jewelers of America and National Jeweler discuss the gold price, tariffs, and more in this one-hour webinar.

After experiencing motherhood, growth, and loss, founder and designer Erin Sachse has created 10 irreplaceable jewels.

It is part of Sotheby’s “Royal & Noble Jewels” sale along with an ornate hair ornament and an old mine-cut light pink diamond ring.

One of the individuals was apprehended at the airport as he was trying to flee the country.

The retailer, which has faced struggling sales in recent quarters, is looking to streamline its operations.

Hill Management Group will oversee, market, and produce next year’s spring show.

London-based investment firm Pemberton Asset Management acquired the auction house for an undisclosed amount.

The workshop will give attendees the chance to try out and ask questions about three different diamond verification instruments.

The footage shows two of the jewelry heist suspects descending from the second floor of the museum and then escaping via scooter.

Founder and designer Rosanna Fiedler looked to a vintage Cartier clutch when designing the sunlight-inspired drop earrings.

The luxury conglomerates faced a challenging Q3 amid geopolitical and economic tensions.

The book details the journey of watches as symbols of hard-earned success in hip-hop for artists like 2Pac, Jay-Z, and more.





 
  















