Policies & IssuesMar 03, 2025
Customs Indefinitely Postpones Requirement to Disclose Country of MiningOriginally slated to take effect in April, official U.S. Customs and Border Protection documents now show the implementation date as “TBD.”
SourcingNov 01, 2016
Gemstone ‘Secrets’ Book Gets an Update
The second edition of gemologist Richard Wise’s best-selling Secrets of the Gem Trade: The Connoisseur’s Guide to Precious Gemstones is out today.
The second edition of the best-selling Secrets of the Gem Trade: The Connoisseur’s Guide to Precious Gemstones is available now, more than a decade after the first one was released.
Lenox, Mass.--The colored gemstone market is dependent on a number of factors, and fluctuations in supply and demand mean that a lot can change in a decade’s time.
For this reason, one author has given his book on the market an update.
The second edition of gem expert Richard Wise’s Secrets of the Gem Trade: The Connoisseur’s Guide to Precious Gemstones, covering the criteria used by professionals to judge the quality and value of gemstones, is out now.
Brunswick House Press first published the book in 2003, and it became a best-seller. Wise has been traveling and researching since then, slowly compiling new information and updates for the next copy of the book.
“A number of things have changed in the gem world in the 14 years (since),” Wise told National Jeweler. “In a sense, the principles of connoisseurship and quality are immutable, right? They don’t change. On the other hand, what’s available in the market has changed.”
For example, the supply of rubies has changed greatly since he wrote the last book. At that time, Myanmar was the only real source. Now Madagascar has come online and is a major player in the trade, he said.
What’s more, only some of the Madagascar rubies look like Burmese rubies, which means that the guide to evaluating the gem needed to be updated to differentiate between the types, as well as the types from a few other sources that have since emerged.
He said that spinel has always been a “dealer’s stone”--they’ve been trying to sell it to people for years and not been able to do it.
“That all changed when Mahenge [Tanzania] came online, and the cobalt blues were discovered in North Vietnam. Now, all of a sudden, we have a 1,200 percent increase in the price of blue and pink and red spinels,” he said.
Wise added that the paradigm also has shifted on red spinel, as new sources produced stones that look less like rubies, which the market was familiar with, and have a greater saturation of color.
Additions also include sections on pearls--both natural nacreous pearls and conch pearls--which have seen a major resurgence since the last book was published, and a
chapter on jade, as the gem has become somewhat of an interest to Western buyers.
Other stones added are moonstone, sunstone, colorless diamonds, Golconda or Type IIa diamonds, demantoid garnet, peridot and violet diamonds.
There also are five new introductory essays, including from the Gemological Institute of America’s Vincent Pardieu, and more than 100 new photographs.
Wise, who has visited most of the major and many of the minor gem-producing areas of the world, also authored The French Blue, in addition to having written many articles for publications like GIA’s Gems & Gemology, Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist and Colored Stone magazine.
The 404-page Secrets of the Gem Trade is $99.95, available at Amazon, Barnes & Noble and most other major book retailers.
More information about the guide also can be found on SecretsofTheGemTrade.com.
Other stones added are moonstone, sunstone, colorless diamonds, Golconda or Type IIa diamonds, demantoid garnet, peridot and violet diamonds.
There also are five new introductory essays, including from the Gemological Institute of America’s Vincent Pardieu, and more than 100 new photographs.
Wise, who has visited most of the major and many of the minor gem-producing areas of the world, also authored The French Blue, in addition to having written many articles for publications like GIA’s Gems & Gemology, Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist and Colored Stone magazine.
The 404-page Secrets of the Gem Trade is $99.95, available at Amazon, Barnes & Noble and most other major book retailers.
More information about the guide also can be found on SecretsofTheGemTrade.com.
More on Sourcing
The Latest
EditorsMar 03, 2025
Drop Necklaces, Archival Pieces Take Over at the 2025 OscarsFrom Doja Cat to Mikey Madison and Selena Gomez, many of this year’s Academy Awards attendees donned drop necklaces.
SurveysMar 03, 2025
Consumer Confidence Fell in February Amid Concerns About the FutureThe recent jump in the prices of household staples, like eggs, and the potential impact of tariffs worried consumers.
Brought to you by
Have a Plan for EmergenciesEmergencies can happen anytime, anywhere , and Jewelers of America has what you need to be prepared for it all.
Events & AwardsMar 03, 2025
AGA Now Accepting Applications for Its Gemological Education Scholarship The application period for the program is now open for aspiring gemologists around the world.
Weekly QuizFeb 27, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
CollectionsFeb 28, 2025
Piece of the Week: Ironhorse Quillwork EarringsThe work of Indigenous designer Joe Big Mountain, these earrings are similar to the pair Lily Gladstone just wore to the SAG Awards.
AuctionsFeb 28, 2025
300-Year-Old Ring With Ties to Witch Trial Judge Up for Auction A metal detectorist uncovered the ring created in memory of Sir Richard Rainsford, who presided over some of England’s last witch trials.
Brought to you by
A Diamond ETF is the Way to Reinvigorate Natural Diamond SalesThe jewelry industry faces challenges from lab-grown diamonds. A diamond ETF can restore natural diamonds' value and drive investor demand.
Recorded WebinarsFeb 28, 2025
Watch: 2025 Jewelry Trends ForecastFine jewelry consultant and publicist Francesca Simons joins Amanda Gizzi and Natalie Francisco to discuss the trends set to rise this year.
TrendsFeb 27, 2025
Model Winnie Harlow Says ‘Yes’ to 3-Stone Engagement RingHarlow’s partner, NBA player Kyle Kuzma, worked with Vobara to design the ring, which features oval and pear-shaped diamonds.
MajorsFeb 27, 2025
Winona Ryder, Iman Star in New Pandora CampaignThe Danish jeweler released the next chapter of its “Be Love” campaign, which celebrates love in all its forms.
Events & AwardsFeb 27, 2025
JA to Host Workshop During Alabama Jewelers Association ConventionThe learning workshop and the convention are both scheduled to take place April 26 and 27 in Montgomery, Alabama.
Policies & IssuesFeb 26, 2025
EU Once Again Pushes Back Deadline on Diamond Traceability The EU, like the U.S., also now will require diamond importers to provide information about where exactly the diamonds were mined.
Events & AwardsFeb 26, 2025
JFC Names 2025 ‘Facets’ HonoreesThe charity will celebrate Pandora CEO Alexander Lacik and Brilliant Earth CEO Beth Gerstein at its annual event in Las Vegas.
ColumnistsFeb 25, 2025
Peter Smith: Here’s What I Think Retailers need to have the right merchandise, marketing, and people in place to stay on top in a sea of uncertainty, Peter Smith writes.
EditorsFeb 25, 2025
Out & About: Visiting Tacori’s New Shop-in-Shop Senior Editor Lenore Fedow traveled to Smyth Jewelers in Maryland to see the first of 15 revamped in-store boutiques Tacori is rolling out.
MajorsFeb 25, 2025
Qurate Has a New NameThe parent company of HSN and QVC is undergoing a restructuring.
CollectionsFeb 25, 2025
Michael B. Jordan Stars in David Yurman’s Spring CampaignThe company’s newest brand ambassador Eiza González will also be featured in the ads for the women’s campaign.
SourcingFeb 24, 2025
Colored Stone Market Update: Tracking Industry Trends in TucsonDeclining supply and growing demand persist in the colored gemstone market, presenters from Gemworld said at AGTA GemFair Tucson.
TrendsFeb 24, 2025
Renna’s Lobster Clasp Looks Like a Claw, Now It's Patented by LawThe designer’s new patent transforms the everyday clasp into her jumbo “Lobster Clasp,” modeled after the look of a crustacean’s claw.
Events & AwardsFeb 24, 2025
Bogolo Joy Kenewendo to Speak at Annual JVC LuncheonKenewendo, Botswana’s minister of minerals and energy, will discuss the future of diamonds.
SourcingFeb 24, 2025
Diavik’s Production Down 17% in 2024 Sales at the Rio Tinto-owned mine also slid by a double-digit percentage, falling 37 percent in a difficult market for diamonds.
CollectionsFeb 21, 2025
Piece of the Week: Jade Ruzzo’s ‘Tennessee’ Oval Drop EarringsHeidi Gardner, an SNL cast member, wore the smoky quartz earrings on the “SNL50: The Anniversary Special” red carpet on Sunday.
SourcingFeb 21, 2025
Zambia Lifts 15% Export Duty on Gemstones, Metals The reversal comes less than two months after the Zambian government reinstated the tax in an effort to bring in more money.
MajorsFeb 21, 2025
24 Karat Club of New York Names New PresidentThe organization also announced its newly elected officers and directors.
SourcingFeb 20, 2025
Anglo Writes Down Value of De Beers by $2.9B As anticipated, Anglo took another impairment charge on the diamond miner and marketer, which saw revenue sink 23 percent in 2024.
SourcingFeb 20, 2025
Harry Winston’s Son Donates Fancy Red Diamond to the SmithsonianRonald Winston is giving the 2.33-carat “Winston Red” to the Smithsonian, 67 years after his father donated the Hope Diamond.
