The Western star’s 14-karat gold signet ring sold for six times its low estimate following a bidding war at U.K. auction house Elmwood’s.
Gemstone ‘Secrets’ Book Gets an Update
The second edition of gemologist Richard Wise’s best-selling Secrets of the Gem Trade: The Connoisseur’s Guide to Precious Gemstones is out today.

Lenox, Mass.--The colored gemstone market is dependent on a number of factors, and fluctuations in supply and demand mean that a lot can change in a decade’s time.
For this reason, one author has given his book on the market an update.
The second edition of gem expert Richard Wise’s Secrets of the Gem Trade: The Connoisseur’s Guide to Precious Gemstones, covering the criteria used by professionals to judge the quality and value of gemstones, is out now.
Brunswick House Press first published the book in 2003, and it became a best-seller. Wise has been traveling and researching since then, slowly compiling new information and updates for the next copy of the book.
“A number of things have changed in the gem world in the 14 years (since),” Wise told National Jeweler. “In a sense, the principles of connoisseurship and quality are immutable, right? They don’t change. On the other hand, what’s available in the market has changed.”
For example, the supply of rubies has changed greatly since he wrote the last book. At that time, Myanmar was the only real source. Now Madagascar has come online and is a major player in the trade, he said.
What’s more, only some of the Madagascar rubies look like Burmese rubies, which means that the guide to evaluating the gem needed to be updated to differentiate between the types, as well as the types from a few other sources that have since emerged.
He said that spinel has always been a “dealer’s stone”--they’ve been trying to sell it to people for years and not been able to do it.
“That all changed when Mahenge [Tanzania] came online, and the cobalt blues were discovered in North Vietnam. Now, all of a sudden, we have a 1,200 percent increase in the price of blue and pink and red spinels,” he said.
Wise added that the paradigm also has shifted on red spinel, as new sources produced stones that look less like rubies, which the market was familiar with, and have a greater saturation of color.
Additions also include sections on pearls--both natural nacreous pearls and conch pearls--which have seen a major resurgence since the last book was published, and a
Other stones added are moonstone, sunstone, colorless diamonds, Golconda or Type IIa diamonds, demantoid garnet, peridot and violet diamonds.
There also are five new introductory essays, including from the Gemological Institute of America’s Vincent Pardieu, and more than 100 new photographs.
Wise, who has visited most of the major and many of the minor gem-producing areas of the world, also authored The French Blue, in addition to having written many articles for publications like GIA’s Gems & Gemology, Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist and Colored Stone magazine.
The 404-page Secrets of the Gem Trade is $99.95, available at Amazon, Barnes & Noble and most other major book retailers.
More information about the guide also can be found on SecretsofTheGemTrade.com.
The Latest

The discussion, "Rebuilding the Jewelry Workforce," will take place on Saturday, May 16, in Troy, Michigan.

A matching pair of 18.38-carat, D-color diamonds from Botswana’s Jwaneng mine sold for $3.3 million, the top lot of the jewelry auction.

With the trade and customer trust in mind, GIA® developed NextGem™ – on-demand training designed specifically for retail.

Sponsored by A Diamond Is Forever


It was the second auction appearance for the fancy vivid blue-green diamond, which sold for $7.8 million at Christie’s Geneva 12 years ago.

Members of the U.S. Marshals Task Force took a 22-year-old man into custody. He was charged with tampering with evidence.

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

While the overall number of crimes was down, there were more incidences in which robbers pulled out guns, mace, or rammed cars into stores.

Jack Sutton Fine Jewelry is closing its store inside the downtown shopping center after 40 years in business.

Reena Ahluwalia’s painting of the rare red diamond is the first contemporary painting to join the National Gem Collection.

The price of gold has risen, affecting the number of pieces designers make, the materials they use, and how they position themselves.

Peter Smith gives tips on leading meetings, developing marketing, and making trade show appointments in the age of short attention spans.

The 11-piece “Medallions” capsule collection features five motifs: a crying eye, a heart on fire, a spiral, a flower, and a swallow.

From Gen Z’s view of luxury to “doom spending,” these are the six consumer trends to note this year.

The partners have announced the second cycle of the program, which has expanded to include a $25,000 student scholarship.

The owners of Staats Jewelers are heading into retirement.

Jeffrey Gennette, who retired in 2024 after 41 years with Macy’s, is the newest member of the jewelry retailer’s board of directors.

May babies are lucky to have emeralds, a gemstone admired for centuries, as their birthstone, writes Amanda Gizzi.

The new module allows retailers to plan, promote, and measure the success of events from a single dashboard.

NDC said in an open letter that Pandora’s statements about the carbon footprint of lab grown versus natural diamonds are inaccurate.

The diamantaire and industry leader succeeds Feriel Zerouki and said he will focus on being a “champion” for natural diamonds.

She wore our Piece of the Week, Glenn Spiro’s “Old Moghul Golconda” earrings, featuring fancy brown-yellow diamonds totaling 51.90 carats.

Two pieces were named “Best in Show,” one from the retail category and one from the supplier category.

The jewelry retailer noted resilience among its higher-end customers while demand softened for its lower-priced offerings.

Led by the 6.59-carat sapphire, the sale garnered $9.7 million, a record total for a Heritage jewelry auction.

In his new role, sales specialist Billy Welshoff will focus on the eastern United States.
























