CrimeMay 13, 2026
JSA’s 2025 Crime Report Shows ‘Concerning’ Rise in ViolenceWhile the overall number of crimes was down, there were more incidences in which robbers pulled out guns, mace, or rammed cars into stores.
GradingMar 28, 2017
Gübelin Gem Lab Debuts ‘Emerald Paternity Test’
The new technology introduced at Baselworld can trace an emerald to the mine of its origin.
The world’s largest emerald mine, the Kagem Mine located in Zambia, was the site of Gübelin Gem Lab’s preliminary Emerald Paternity Test. Kagem Mine is majority-owned by Gemfields.
Basel, Switzerland--When developing a method to make emeralds completely traceable, Gübelin Gem Lab looked to DNA.
Introduced at Baselworld 2017, Gübelin’s “Emerald Paternity Test” involves applying DNA-based nanoparticles directly onto rough emerald crystals at mining sites.
Nanotechnology deals with particles less than 100 nanometers large. The particles aren't visible to the naked eye or even under an optical microscope, so a stone’s properties and grading won’t be affected by the application.
Gübelin’s application process is designed to withstand all steps of an emerald’s journey, from cutting to cleaning, polishing, transporting and setting, so that the nanoparticles will act as a permanent origin tag.
Just like a human's DNA is specific to each individual, the tag will be unique to each mine.
Introduced at Baselworld 2017, Gübelin’s “Emerald Paternity Test” involves applying DNA-based nanoparticles directly onto rough emerald crystals at mining sites.
Nanotechnology deals with particles less than 100 nanometers large. The particles aren't visible to the naked eye or even under an optical microscope, so a stone’s properties and grading won’t be affected by the application.
Gübelin’s application process is designed to withstand all steps of an emerald’s journey, from cutting to cleaning, polishing, transporting and setting, so that the nanoparticles will act as a permanent origin tag.
Just like a human's DNA is specific to each individual, the tag will be unique to each mine.
This is an image of the DNA-based nanoparticles applied directly to rough emerald crystals as part of the emerald paternity test. The particles are invisible to the human eye and even to optical microscopes. At any point in time, the particles can be decoded to reveal a stone’s origin.
“This technology offers all stakeholders along the entire supply chain, from the miner to the final customers, proof of the exact source of emeralds, instilling confidence and creating trust,” said Daniel Nyfeler, managing director of Gübelin Gem Lab. “It enables a new level of transparency for the gemstone trade.”
Gübelin worked with Gemfields, majority owner of the world’s largest emerald mine, the Kagem Mine in Zambia, to test the new technology.
“Partnering with Gemfields for the feasibility study was an obvious choice,” Nyfeler said, “as it is not only an industry leader, but a forward-thinking company, and hence a perfect partner to test a ground-breaking idea such as this paternity test for emeralds.”
The results were a success and Gemfields told National Jeweler it would "continue to tag emerald production coming through the auction system."
Gemfields CEO Ian Harebottle explained, “Embracing innovation, technology and increased transparency is at the heart of our approach. We were therefore thrilled to assist Gübelin in the testing of this new technology, and we are very excited about the outcome as it offers a multitude of benefits to the industry and the consumer.”
For now, the paternity test will only work for emeralds, as the DNA-based nanoparticles are able to adhere to the fissures unique to the gemstone, and remain there through all processing.
Gübelin, which analyzes diamonds, color gemstones and pearls at its laboratories in Lucerne, Switzerland, Hong Kong and New York, said that the nanotechnology could offer transparency across the industry, to large and small mining companies, governments, trade organizations, industry watchdogs, jewelry brands and customers.
Gübelin is "looking to develop relationships with all stakeholders in the supply chain," they said to National Jeweler.
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
More on Grading
The Latest
IndependentsMay 13, 2026
New Orleans Jeweler Closing Canal Place StoreJack Sutton Fine Jewelry is closing its store inside the downtown shopping center after 40 years in business.
SourcingMay 13, 2026
Smithsonian Acquires ‘Winston Red’ Diamond PaintingReena Ahluwalia’s painting of the rare red diamond is the first contemporary painting to join the National Gem Collection.
Brought to you by
How Modern Training Is Becoming a Competitive Advantage for Jewelry RetailersWith the trade and customer trust in mind, GIA® developed NextGem™ – on-demand training designed specifically for retail.
TrendsMay 13, 2026
State of Design: Only the Innovative Will SurviveThe price of gold has risen, affecting the number of pieces designers make, the materials they use, and how they position themselves.
Weekly QuizMay 07, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
ColumnistsMay 12, 2026
It’s Official: We’re Getting ‘Brain Rot’ From Watching Short-Form Videos Peter Smith gives tips on leading meetings, developing marketing, and making trade show appointments in the age of short attention spans.
CollectionsMay 12, 2026
Jessica McCormack Debuts Antique Coin-Inspired Medallions for SummerThe 11-piece “Medallions” capsule collection features five motifs: a crying eye, a heart on fire, a spiral, a flower, and a swallow.
Brought to you by
Discover Timeless Treasures: A Showcase of Antique Jewelry & Timepieces in Las VegasGain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.
IndependentsMay 12, 2026
State of Retail: 6 Things Retailers Should Know About Consumers TodayFrom Gen Z’s view of luxury to “doom spending,” these are the six consumer trends to note this year.
Events & AwardsMay 12, 2026
The Tiffany & Co. x CFDA Jewelry Designer Award Is BackThe partners have announced the second cycle of the program, which has expanded to include a $25,000 student scholarship.
IndependentsMay 11, 2026
Kansas Jeweler Closing After 70 YearsThe owners of Staats Jewelers are heading into retirement.
TrendsMay 11, 2026
Former Macy’s CEO Joins Signet Jewelers BoardJeffrey Gennette, who retired in 2024 after 41 years with Macy’s, is the newest member of the jewelry retailer’s board of directors.
TrendsMay 11, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Lucky May May babies are lucky to have emeralds, a gemstone admired for centuries, as their birthstone, writes Amanda Gizzi.
TechnologyMay 11, 2026
Clientbook’s New Tool Helps Jewelers Plan In-Store EventsThe new module allows retailers to plan, promote, and measure the success of events from a single dashboard.
Lab-GrownMay 08, 2026
NDC Publicly Criticizes Pandora Over ‘Misleading’ Natural Diamond ClaimsNDC said in an open letter that Pandora’s statements about the carbon footprint of lab grown versus natural diamonds are inaccurate.
SourcingMay 08, 2026
Ronnie VanderLinden Takes Over as WDC President The diamantaire and industry leader succeeds Feriel Zerouki and said he will focus on being a “champion” for natural diamonds.
TrendsMay 08, 2026
Rihanna Chooses ‘Desert Diamonds’ for 2026 Met GalaShe wore our Piece of the Week, Glenn Spiro’s “Old Moghul Golconda” earrings, featuring fancy brown-yellow diamonds totaling 51.90 carats.
Events & AwardsMay 08, 2026
JA Announces 2026 CASE Award WinnersTwo pieces were named “Best in Show,” one from the retail category and one from the supplier category.
FinancialsMay 07, 2026
Brilliant Earth Appeals to Higher-Income Shoppers in Q1The jewelry retailer noted resilience among its higher-end customers while demand softened for its lower-priced offerings.
AuctionsMay 07, 2026
‘Spectacular’ Kashmir Sapphire Headlines Heritage Spring Jewelry SaleLed by the 6.59-carat sapphire, the sale garnered $9.7 million, a record total for a Heritage jewelry auction.
MajorsMay 07, 2026
Gannon & Scott Names New Regional Account ExecutiveIn his new role, sales specialist Billy Welshoff will focus on the eastern United States.
WatchesMay 07, 2026
Chrono24 Names New CEOJosé Gaztelu has been promoted to the role, which has been vacant since last year.
Events & AwardsMay 07, 2026
JA Accepting Applications for 2026 Scholarship ProgramIt has also opened the application period for the Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship through June 30.
SourcingMay 06, 2026
Canada’s Oldest Diamond Mine Faces Uncertain FutureThe owner of the Ekati mine, which opened in 1998, has filed for insolvency protection amid the significant decline in diamond prices.
FinancialsMay 06, 2026
Pandora to Add Carbon Footprint Info to Lab-Grown DiamondsThe company announced the change alongside its Q1 results, which showed that the jewelry brand’s year is off to a shaky start.
MajorsMay 06, 2026
Saks Global Begins Layoffs, Reorganization Plans Closer to ApprovalThe retailer will cut 16 percent of its corporate workforce as part of its plan to exit bankruptcy.
AuctionsMay 06, 2026
Steve McQueen’s Heuer Monaco Watch Heads to Sotheby'sOf the many examples used in the filming of “Le Mans,” this one is believed to have spent the most time on Steve McQueen’s wrist.
