Grading

Gübelin Gem Lab Debuts ‘Emerald Paternity Test’

GradingMar 28, 2017

Gübelin Gem Lab Debuts ‘Emerald Paternity Test’

The new technology introduced at Baselworld can trace an emerald to the mine of its origin.

20170328_Gubelin-header.jpg
The world’s largest emerald mine, the Kagem Mine located in Zambia, was the site of Gübelin Gem Lab’s preliminary Emerald Paternity Test. Kagem Mine is majority-owned by Gemfields.
Basel, Switzerland--When developing a method to make emeralds completely traceable, Gübelin Gem Lab looked to DNA. 

Introduced at Baselworld 2017, Gübelin’s “Emerald Paternity Test” involves applying DNA-based nanoparticles directly onto rough emerald crystals at mining sites.

Nanotechnology deals with particles less than 100 nanometers large. The particles aren't visible to the naked eye or even under an optical microscope, so a stone’s properties and grading won’t be affected by the application.

Gübelin’s application process is designed to withstand all steps of an emerald’s journey, from cutting to cleaning, polishing, transporting and setting, so that the nanoparticles will act as a permanent origin tag.

Just like a human's DNA is specific to each individual, the tag will be unique to each mine. 

This is an image of the DNA-based nanoparticles applied directly to rough emerald crystals as part of the emerald paternity test. The particles are invisible to the human eye and even to optical microscopes. At any point in time, the particles can be decoded to reveal a stone’s origin.
This is an image of the DNA-based nanoparticles applied directly to rough emerald crystals as part of the emerald paternity test. The particles are invisible to the human eye and even to optical microscopes. At any point in time, the particles can be decoded to reveal a stone’s origin.

“This technology offers all stakeholders along the entire supply chain, from the miner to the final customers, proof of the exact source of emeralds, instilling confidence and creating trust,” said Daniel Nyfeler, managing director of Gübelin Gem Lab. “It enables a new level of transparency for the gemstone trade.”

Gübelin worked with Gemfields, majority owner of the world’s largest emerald mine, the Kagem Mine in Zambia, to test the new technology. 

“Partnering with Gemfields for the feasibility study was an obvious choice,” Nyfeler said, “as it is not only an industry leader, but a forward-thinking company, and hence a perfect partner to test a ground-breaking idea such as this paternity test for emeralds.”

The results were a success and Gemfields told National Jeweler it would "continue to tag emerald production coming through the auction system."

Gemfields CEO Ian Harebottle explained, “Embracing innovation, technology and increased transparency is at the heart of our approach. We were therefore thrilled to assist Gübelin in the testing of this new technology, and we are very excited about the outcome as it offers a multitude of benefits to the industry and the consumer.”

For now, the paternity test will only work for emeralds, as the DNA-based nanoparticles are able to adhere to the fissures unique to the gemstone, and remain there through all processing.

Gübelin, which analyzes diamonds, color gemstones and pearls at its laboratories in Lucerne, Switzerland, Hong Kong and New York, said that the nanotechnology could offer transparency across the industry, to large and small mining companies, governments, trade organizations, industry watchdogs, jewelry brands and customers.

Gübelin is "looking to develop relationships with all stakeholders in the supply chain," they said to National Jeweler. 
Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

2025 National Jeweler Retailer Hall of Fame inductees
Events & AwardsJun 06, 2025
Here Are the 2025 Retailer Hall of Fame Inductees

This year’s honorees include a Midwest retailer and two multi-store independents, one in New York and the other in New England.

Harwell Godfrey Granny Square Eleanor Necklace
CollectionsJun 06, 2025
Piece of the Week: Harwell Godfrey’s ‘Granny Squares Eleanor’ Necklace

As an homage to iconic crochet blankets, the necklace features the nostalgic motif through a kaleidoscope of cabochon-cut stones.

 Laura Gallon Joaillerie “Dynasty” ring, Bijules “Compass” bolo tie, Löf “The Orbitalis” ring
Events & AwardsJun 05, 2025
The 12 Fresh Faces in Couture’s Design Atelier

Discover the dozen up-and-coming brands exhibiting in the Design Atelier for the first time.

DCA-student-cert-NJ1872x1052-2.png
Brought to you by
The True Power Behind the Counter: Why Sales Associates Are the Heart of the Jewelry Business

When investing in your jewelry business, it's important not to overlook the most crucial element of success: the sales associates.

Jack Abraham The Royal Ruby Collection
SourcingJun 05, 2025
A Rare Suite of Rubies Has Arrived in Las Vegas

The “Royal Ruby” Collection is a quintet of untreated rubies curated by collector Jack Abraham.

Weekly QuizJun 05, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Daymond John
Events & AwardsJun 05, 2025
Daymond John to Give Keynote at JCK Las Vegas

The entrepreneur and “Shark Tank” star will share his top tips for success.

Vaishali Banerjee and Pallavi Sharma
MajorsJun 05, 2025
Platinum Guild International Updates Leadership Team

Two existing executives have been given new roles.

Article Image 1.png
Brought to you by
Clienteling Isn’t a Buzzword. It’s an Essential Business Model.

More shoppers are walking out without buying. Here’s how smart jewelers can bring them back—and the tool they need to do it right.

Meredith Tiderington
Events & AwardsJun 05, 2025
Zillion Announces 'Women in STEM' Scholarship Recipient

Meredith Tiderington, an electrical engineering student, was selected for the award.

The Gemological Institute of America’s logo
Lab-GrownJun 04, 2025
GIA Reverting to More General Terminology for Lab-Grown Diamonds

It will quit assigning the stones specific color and clarity grades in favor of applying “new descriptive terminology.”

Exterior of the Venetian and the Las Vegas Sphere
Events & AwardsJun 04, 2025
As JCK Talks Returns, Don’t Miss These 12 Sessions

From design trends to sustainability, here’s a roundup of can’t-miss education sessions at JCK Las Vegas.

JCK show
CrimeJun 04, 2025
10 Safety Tips for the Las Vegas Shows

The Jewelers’ Security Alliance offers advice for those attending the annual trade shows.

Amy Curran
MajorsJun 04, 2025
Amy Curran Promoted at Hill & Co.

Her new role is director of strategic initiatives.

The eight rings in Viviana Langhoff’s AU79 jewelry collection
CollectionsJun 03, 2025
In Her Latest Collection, Viviana Langhoff Is Leaning Into Gold

The designer is embracing bold pieces with weight to them in “AU79,” a collection she celebrated with a creative launch party.

Gold and diamond bangles on a pair of jeans
FinancialsJun 03, 2025
Signet Jewelers Sees Turnaround in Q1 With Sales Ticking Up 2%

On an earnings call, CEO J.K. Symancyk discussed what’s working for the company and how it’s preparing for the potential impact of tariffs.

Woman’s hand holding shopping bags
SurveysJun 03, 2025
Consumer Confidence Improves in May

The index partially rebounded after months of decline, due in part to the U.S.-China deal to temporarily reduce import tariffs.

Dakota Johnson as Roberto Coin Brand Ambassador
CollectionsJun 03, 2025
Dakota Johnson Is Roberto Coin’s New Brand Ambassador

The actress stars in the latest campaign set in Venice, Italy, and is set to participate in other creative initiatives for the jeweler.

Gemfields ruby
SourcingJun 02, 2025
Gemfields’ June Auction to Include 36-Carat Ruby

The large stone will be offered at its June sale along with a selection of secondary-type rubies from a new area of the Montepuez mine.

Seaman Schepps pearl earrings
TrendsJun 02, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Three Gems for June

Those born in June have a myriad of options for their birthstone jewelry.

David Allouche
SourcingJun 02, 2025
David Allouche Joins Grandview Klein Diamonds

The diamond industry veteran has been named its senior sales executive.

Movado Connect 2.0 watches
FinancialsMay 30, 2025
Movado’s Q1 Sales Slip Amid ‘Challenging’ Retail Environment

The company plans to raise the prices of select watches to offset the impact of tariffs.

Zoë Chicco Bracelets
Policies & IssuesMay 30, 2025
Tariffs & Designers: Navigating Pricing in an Unstable Environment

Between tariffs and the sky-high cost of gold, designers enter this year’s Las Vegas shows with a lot of questions and few answers.

Renato Cipullo Hematite Blaze Necklace
CollectionsMay 30, 2025
Piece of the Week: Renato Cipullo’s ‘Hematite Blaze’ Necklace

Designed by founder Renato and his daughter Serena Cipullo, it showcases a flame motif representing unity and the power of gathering.

Stock image of shipping containers
Policies & IssuesMay 30, 2025
Trade Court Declares Trump’s Tariffs Invalid

However, the tariffs remain in effect in the short term, as an appeals court has stayed the U.S. Court of International Trade’s decision.

Britney Spears
CollectionsMay 29, 2025
Britney Spears Files Trademark for New Jewelry Line

The pop icon is one step closer to launching her “B Tiny” jewelry collection, a collection she first began posting about last fall.

Inoveo Platinum Grain image.jpg
Supplier BulletinMay 29, 2025
Inoveo Platinum Grain, Exclusively Distributed by Stuller

Sponsored by Stuller

Grizzly Mining Pilala emerald
SourcingMay 29, 2025
Grizzly Auctions 6,620-Carat Emerald

It was featured in the miner’s latest sale, which brought in $24.8 million.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy