Events & AwardsOct 30, 2024
These Designers, Journalists, and Retailers Are Up for a Gem Award The 2025 Gem Awards are scheduled to take place March 14 at Cipriani 42nd Street in New York City.
GradingMar 28, 2017
Gübelin Gem Lab Debuts ‘Emerald Paternity Test’
The new technology introduced at Baselworld can trace an emerald to the mine of its origin.
The world’s largest emerald mine, the Kagem Mine located in Zambia, was the site of Gübelin Gem Lab’s preliminary Emerald Paternity Test. Kagem Mine is majority-owned by Gemfields.
Basel, Switzerland--When developing a method to make emeralds completely traceable, Gübelin Gem Lab looked to DNA.
Introduced at Baselworld 2017, Gübelin’s “Emerald Paternity Test” involves applying DNA-based nanoparticles directly onto rough emerald crystals at mining sites.
Nanotechnology deals with particles less than 100 nanometers large. The particles aren't visible to the naked eye or even under an optical microscope, so a stone’s properties and grading won’t be affected by the application.
Gübelin’s application process is designed to withstand all steps of an emerald’s journey, from cutting to cleaning, polishing, transporting and setting, so that the nanoparticles will act as a permanent origin tag.
Just like a human's DNA is specific to each individual, the tag will be unique to each mine.
Introduced at Baselworld 2017, Gübelin’s “Emerald Paternity Test” involves applying DNA-based nanoparticles directly onto rough emerald crystals at mining sites.
Nanotechnology deals with particles less than 100 nanometers large. The particles aren't visible to the naked eye or even under an optical microscope, so a stone’s properties and grading won’t be affected by the application.
Gübelin’s application process is designed to withstand all steps of an emerald’s journey, from cutting to cleaning, polishing, transporting and setting, so that the nanoparticles will act as a permanent origin tag.
Just like a human's DNA is specific to each individual, the tag will be unique to each mine.
This is an image of the DNA-based nanoparticles applied directly to rough emerald crystals as part of the emerald paternity test. The particles are invisible to the human eye and even to optical microscopes. At any point in time, the particles can be decoded to reveal a stone’s origin.
“This technology offers all stakeholders along the entire supply chain, from the miner to the final customers, proof of the exact source of emeralds, instilling confidence and creating trust,” said Daniel Nyfeler, managing director of Gübelin Gem Lab. “It enables a new level of transparency for the gemstone trade.”
Gübelin worked with Gemfields, majority owner of the world’s largest emerald mine, the Kagem Mine in Zambia, to test the new technology.
“Partnering with Gemfields for the feasibility study was an obvious choice,” Nyfeler said, “as it is not only an industry leader, but a forward-thinking company, and hence a perfect partner to test a ground-breaking idea such as this paternity test for emeralds.”
The results were a success and Gemfields told National Jeweler it would "continue to tag emerald production coming through the auction system."
Gemfields CEO Ian Harebottle explained, “Embracing innovation, technology and increased transparency is at the heart of our approach. We were therefore thrilled to assist Gübelin in the testing of this new technology, and we are very excited about the outcome as it offers a multitude of benefits to the industry and the consumer.”
For now, the paternity test will only work for emeralds, as the DNA-based nanoparticles are able to adhere to the fissures unique to the gemstone, and remain there through all processing.
Gübelin, which analyzes diamonds, color gemstones and pearls at its laboratories in Lucerne, Switzerland, Hong Kong and New York, said that the nanotechnology could offer transparency across the industry, to large and small mining companies, governments, trade organizations, industry watchdogs, jewelry brands and customers.
Gübelin is "looking to develop relationships with all stakeholders in the supply chain," they said to National Jeweler.
More on Grading
The Latest
MajorsOct 30, 2024
Peggy Grosz Leaves Assael After Company Is SoldGrosz had served as Assael’s senior vice president and creative director since 2017.
CollectionsOct 30, 2024
CD Peacock Honors Its Hometown of Chicago in First Bridal Collection“Love and Celebration” is the jeweler’s first in-house collection featuring engagement rings, wedding bands, and celebration rings.
Brought to you by
Navigating Cybersecurity: Essential Guidance for JewelersFrom protecting customer data to safeguarding inventory records, it's crucial to learn how to tackle cybersecurity challenges.
SurveysOct 30, 2024
Consumer Confidence Rebounds in OctoberA more positive view of the labor market contributed to the strongest monthly gain since March 2021.
Weekly QuizOct 24, 2024
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Events & AwardsOct 30, 2024
Mejuri to Award $50K in Scholarships to Jewelry Design StudentsThe funds will be distributed to schools in the U.S., Canada, and the U.K.
MajorsOct 29, 2024
Cybersecurity Expert Selected as President of Jewelers’ Security AllianceJennifer Mulvihill, the first woman to lead JSA in the organization’s 141-year history, takes over for the retiring John Kennedy.
Brought to you by
Enhance Your Expertise with IGI’s In-Person Courses in NYCThis fall, sharpen your skills in jewelry grading, quality control and diamond assessment.
Events & AwardsOct 29, 2024
The Can’t-Miss Events of 2024 New York City Jewelry WeekThis year’s festivities include more than 100 experiences, such as designer showcases, panel discussions, and even a treasure hunt.
AuctionsOct 29, 2024
Rolex Worn on Apollo 14 Mission Sells for More Than $2MThe GMT-Master “Pepsi” that belonged to astronaut Edgar Mitchell is one of two Apollo-flown Rolex watches ever sold at auction.
MajorsOct 29, 2024
Pandora’s Holiday Campaign, New Jewelry Celebrate Light and LoveThe ads star brand ambassadors Chloe and Halle Bailey and Pamela Anderson.
SourcingOct 29, 2024
De Beers’ Production Drops 25% as Demand Remains SluggishThe company combined two sights in Q3 due to the slowdown in demand, and said it is moving up the dates for sights 9 and 10 in Q4.
EditorsOct 28, 2024
Q&A: Monica Rich Kosann Looks Back on 20 Years The jewelry designer discussed how she got into the jewelry industry, what she keeps in her favorite locket, and the future of her brand.
MajorsOct 28, 2024
Jewelers for Children’s Halloween Costume Contest RocksParticipants can buy five votes for $5 to decide which jeweler will dress up as an ‘80s rockstar for Halloween.
TrendsOct 28, 2024
Amanda’s Spooky Style FileThese 15 pieces of jewelry hand-picked ahead of Halloween appeal to the costume- and candy-loving child in all of us.
MajorsOct 25, 2024
This New Bulgari Boutique Is on a YachtStarboard Luxury is bringing the Italian brand aboard The Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection’s newest yacht.
CollectionsOct 25, 2024
Piece of the Week: A Haunting Piece of Mourning Jewelry The pendant, circa the late 1700s, likely was commissioned to remember a loved one who died young.
MajorsOct 25, 2024
Artistry Releases Its 2025 CatalogIt features the brand’s products in the precious color, semi-precious color, pearl, diamond, gold, and sterling silver categories.
EditorsOct 24, 2024
From a Witch to Wednesday: The Best Jewelry to Wear With Your Halloween CostumeFor her annual Halloween story, Associate Editor Lenore Fedow pairs fine jewelry with classic and contemporary Halloween costumes.
FinancialsOct 24, 2024
Kering’s Jewelry Brands ‘More Resilient’ Than Other Luxury Goods in Q3 Sales fell 15 percent for the luxury conglomerate in the third quarter, led by a 26 percent drop in sales for flagship brand Gucci.
Events & AwardsOct 24, 2024
JA New York Fall Show Announces Education LineupThe education offerings include a diamond cutting demonstration, a session with JVC President Sara Yood, and a seminar on AI.
MajorsOct 24, 2024
Phillip Gavriel Releases 2024-2025 Catalog The book features new styles and revived favorites.
SourcingOct 23, 2024
De Beers, Signet Lean Into Finding ‘The One’ in New Natural Diamond Campaign Aimed at a generation that emphasizes self-care and mental health, “Worth the Wait” breaks new ground in the world of diamond advertising.
EditorsOct 23, 2024
The Modern Bride’s Approach to Wedding-Day JewelryEditor Lauren McLemore immersed herself in New York Bridal Fashion Week to better understand the role fine jewelry plays on the big day.
Lab-GrownOct 23, 2024
Q&A: Constance Polamalu on Selling Natural and Lab-Grown DiamondsThe jeweler shared her change of heart on lab-grown diamonds and why she keeps them separate from natural diamonds in her business ventures.
IndependentsOct 23, 2024
Jade Trau Sails OverseasThe New York-based brand is expanding outside of the U.S., with a pop-up shop in London and plans to distribute internationally.
CollectionsOct 23, 2024
See Scott West Jewelry’s ‘Kryptonite’ and ‘Joker’ RingsThey’re available through a retailer that sells luxury products inspired by the lifestyle of Batman’s billionaire civilian persona.
