IndependentsMay 05, 2025
Zadok Jewelers Opens Store in AustinThe Houston-based jeweler’s new 11,000-square-foot showroom will include a Rolex boutique.
GradingMar 28, 2017
Gübelin Gem Lab Debuts ‘Emerald Paternity Test’
The new technology introduced at Baselworld can trace an emerald to the mine of its origin.
The world’s largest emerald mine, the Kagem Mine located in Zambia, was the site of Gübelin Gem Lab’s preliminary Emerald Paternity Test. Kagem Mine is majority-owned by Gemfields.
Basel, Switzerland--When developing a method to make emeralds completely traceable, Gübelin Gem Lab looked to DNA.
Introduced at Baselworld 2017, Gübelin’s “Emerald Paternity Test” involves applying DNA-based nanoparticles directly onto rough emerald crystals at mining sites.
Nanotechnology deals with particles less than 100 nanometers large. The particles aren't visible to the naked eye or even under an optical microscope, so a stone’s properties and grading won’t be affected by the application.
Gübelin’s application process is designed to withstand all steps of an emerald’s journey, from cutting to cleaning, polishing, transporting and setting, so that the nanoparticles will act as a permanent origin tag.
Just like a human's DNA is specific to each individual, the tag will be unique to each mine.
Introduced at Baselworld 2017, Gübelin’s “Emerald Paternity Test” involves applying DNA-based nanoparticles directly onto rough emerald crystals at mining sites.
Nanotechnology deals with particles less than 100 nanometers large. The particles aren't visible to the naked eye or even under an optical microscope, so a stone’s properties and grading won’t be affected by the application.
Gübelin’s application process is designed to withstand all steps of an emerald’s journey, from cutting to cleaning, polishing, transporting and setting, so that the nanoparticles will act as a permanent origin tag.
Just like a human's DNA is specific to each individual, the tag will be unique to each mine.
This is an image of the DNA-based nanoparticles applied directly to rough emerald crystals as part of the emerald paternity test. The particles are invisible to the human eye and even to optical microscopes. At any point in time, the particles can be decoded to reveal a stone’s origin.
“This technology offers all stakeholders along the entire supply chain, from the miner to the final customers, proof of the exact source of emeralds, instilling confidence and creating trust,” said Daniel Nyfeler, managing director of Gübelin Gem Lab. “It enables a new level of transparency for the gemstone trade.”
Gübelin worked with Gemfields, majority owner of the world’s largest emerald mine, the Kagem Mine in Zambia, to test the new technology.
“Partnering with Gemfields for the feasibility study was an obvious choice,” Nyfeler said, “as it is not only an industry leader, but a forward-thinking company, and hence a perfect partner to test a ground-breaking idea such as this paternity test for emeralds.”
The results were a success and Gemfields told National Jeweler it would "continue to tag emerald production coming through the auction system."
Gemfields CEO Ian Harebottle explained, “Embracing innovation, technology and increased transparency is at the heart of our approach. We were therefore thrilled to assist Gübelin in the testing of this new technology, and we are very excited about the outcome as it offers a multitude of benefits to the industry and the consumer.”
For now, the paternity test will only work for emeralds, as the DNA-based nanoparticles are able to adhere to the fissures unique to the gemstone, and remain there through all processing.
Gübelin, which analyzes diamonds, color gemstones and pearls at its laboratories in Lucerne, Switzerland, Hong Kong and New York, said that the nanotechnology could offer transparency across the industry, to large and small mining companies, governments, trade organizations, industry watchdogs, jewelry brands and customers.
Gübelin is "looking to develop relationships with all stakeholders in the supply chain," they said to National Jeweler.
More on Grading
The Latest
AuctionsMay 05, 2025
Nancy Astor’s Cartier Tiara Heads to AuctionThe turquoise and diamond tiara hasn’t been on the market since it was purchased by Lord Astor in 1930.
SourcingMay 05, 2025
Crater of Diamonds Yields 4-Carat Brown Diamond“The Duke Diamond” is the largest diamond registered at the Arkansas park so far this year.
Brought to you by
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show: Showcasing the Most Collectible Merchandise from Across the GlobeGain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.
TrendsMay 02, 2025
Ring Concierge, Kraft Partner on Mother’s Day Macaroni Necklace The childhood craft of making dried pasta necklaces for Mother’s Day is all grown up as the 14-karat gold “Forever Macaroni” necklace.
Weekly QuizMay 01, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
CollectionsMay 02, 2025
Piece of the Week: Angely Martinez’s Emerald Promise RingSet with May’s birthstone and featuring an earthworm, this ring is a perfect celebration of spring.
MajorsMay 02, 2025
Stuller’s New Bridal Catalog Is Here“Bridal 2025–2026” includes popular styles and a dedicated section for quick pricing references of lab-grown diamond bridal jewelry.
Brought to you by
Watch: The Winston Red: GIA Examines the Smithsonian’s Newest AdditionSupplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA
SourcingMay 01, 2025
Tariffs & Colored Gemstones: Relying on Stock, Considering the Ripple EffectThough currently paused, high tariffs threaten many countries where gemstones are mined. Dealers are taking measures now to prepare.
MajorsMay 01, 2025
Peek Inside David Yurman’s New Miami Flagship StoreLocated in Miami’s Design District, the 4,000-square-foot store is an homage to David and Sybil Yurman’s artistic roots.
TrendsMay 01, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: 20 Pieces of Emerald Jewelry for MayMay babies are lucky indeed, born in a month awash with fresh colors and celebrated with one of the most coveted colored gemstones.
MajorsMay 01, 2025
Jewelers of America Opens Applications for 2025 ScholarshipsThe deadline to apply for the Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship is June 12.
SurveysApr 30, 2025
Consumer Confidence Hits Pandemic-Level Low Amid Tariff ConcernsWhat’s really worrying U.S. consumers isn’t the present situation; it’s what the economy is going to look like six months from now.
Events & AwardsApr 30, 2025
Instore Show Debuts New Name, Look, and FocusNow called The Instore Jewelry Show, it will include holiday-focused education, interactive workshops, and a window display contest.
SourcingApr 30, 2025
GemGuide Has a New Pricing Chart for Colombian EmeraldsIt includes pricing for unenhanced Colombian emeralds in the fine to extra fine range.
CollectionsApr 30, 2025
Tiffany & Co. Goes Deep-Sea Diving in New Blue BookThe “Sea of Wonder” collection features pieces inspired by the ocean, from its waves to flora and creatures like urchins and sea turtles.
AuctionsApr 29, 2025
‘Golconda Blue’ Diamond Pulled From AuctionThe 23-carat fancy vivid blue diamond, set to headline Christie’s May jewelry auction, was expected to sell for as much as $50 million.
IndependentsApr 29, 2025
Maryland Jeweler to Close After 36 YearsG.B. Heron Jewelers in Salisbury, Maryland, is set to close as its owner, Jeff Cassels, retires.
ColumnistsApr 29, 2025
Google Ads vs. Social Media Ads: Which Are More Effective?Emmanuel Raheb outlines the differences between the two platforms and posits that the most successful jewelers use both.
SourcingApr 29, 2025
Gemfields Mini Ruby Auction Achieves $7MThe miner said its April sale featured a mix of commercial-quality primary rubies and secondary rubies of varying quality.
CrimeApr 28, 2025
Customs Seizes Nearly 2,000 Pieces of Counterfeit Van Cleef & Arpels JewelryU.S. customs agents in El Paso, Texas, intercepted the package, which would have been worth $9 million if the jewelry was genuine.
TrendsApr 28, 2025
Suzanne Kalan Launches Tech Ring Jacket CollectionHealth monitors become statement pieces when paired with the brand’s new collection of stackable diamond-studded bands.
Events & AwardsApr 28, 2025
JCK Industry Fund Announces 2025 Grant RecipientsTen organizations were selected this year.
IndependentsApr 28, 2025
John Atencio Appoints 2 to Wholesale TeamKim Carpenter and Sam Gevisenheit have joined the brand.
CollectionsApr 25, 2025
Sylvie Looks to Water in New Sculptural Bridal Collection“Shell Auranova” is the next generation of the brand’s bridal line, featuring half-bezel engagement rings with bold and fluid designs.
FinancialsApr 25, 2025
Kering’s Jewelry Brands Persevere as Q1 Sales Sink 14%Boucheron and Pomellato performed well in an otherwise bleak quarter for Kering amid struggles at Gucci.
EditorsApr 25, 2025
Piece of the Week: Deborah Meyers Experience’s ‘The Birds’ EarringsDesigner Deborah Meyers created her birds from oxidized sterling silver, rose-cut diamond eyes, and Akoya Keshi pearl feathers.
