Grading

Gübelin Gem Lab Debuts ‘Emerald Paternity Test’

GradingMar 28, 2017

Gübelin Gem Lab Debuts ‘Emerald Paternity Test’

The new technology introduced at Baselworld can trace an emerald to the mine of its origin.

20170328_Gubelin-header.jpg
The world’s largest emerald mine, the Kagem Mine located in Zambia, was the site of Gübelin Gem Lab’s preliminary Emerald Paternity Test. Kagem Mine is majority-owned by Gemfields.
Basel, Switzerland--When developing a method to make emeralds completely traceable, Gübelin Gem Lab looked to DNA. 

Introduced at Baselworld 2017, Gübelin’s “Emerald Paternity Test” involves applying DNA-based nanoparticles directly onto rough emerald crystals at mining sites.

Nanotechnology deals with particles less than 100 nanometers large. The particles aren't visible to the naked eye or even under an optical microscope, so a stone’s properties and grading won’t be affected by the application.

Gübelin’s application process is designed to withstand all steps of an emerald’s journey, from cutting to cleaning, polishing, transporting and setting, so that the nanoparticles will act as a permanent origin tag.

Just like a human's DNA is specific to each individual, the tag will be unique to each mine. 

This is an image of the DNA-based nanoparticles applied directly to rough emerald crystals as part of the emerald paternity test. The particles are invisible to the human eye and even to optical microscopes. At any point in time, the particles can be decoded to reveal a stone’s origin.
This is an image of the DNA-based nanoparticles applied directly to rough emerald crystals as part of the emerald paternity test. The particles are invisible to the human eye and even to optical microscopes. At any point in time, the particles can be decoded to reveal a stone’s origin.

“This technology offers all stakeholders along the entire supply chain, from the miner to the final customers, proof of the exact source of emeralds, instilling confidence and creating trust,” said Daniel Nyfeler, managing director of Gübelin Gem Lab. “It enables a new level of transparency for the gemstone trade.”

Gübelin worked with Gemfields, majority owner of the world’s largest emerald mine, the Kagem Mine in Zambia, to test the new technology. 

“Partnering with Gemfields for the feasibility study was an obvious choice,” Nyfeler said, “as it is not only an industry leader, but a forward-thinking company, and hence a perfect partner to test a ground-breaking idea such as this paternity test for emeralds.”

The results were a success and Gemfields told National Jeweler it would "continue to tag emerald production coming through the auction system."

Gemfields CEO Ian Harebottle explained, “Embracing innovation, technology and increased transparency is at the heart of our approach. We were therefore thrilled to assist Gübelin in the testing of this new technology, and we are very excited about the outcome as it offers a multitude of benefits to the industry and the consumer.”

For now, the paternity test will only work for emeralds, as the DNA-based nanoparticles are able to adhere to the fissures unique to the gemstone, and remain there through all processing.

Gübelin, which analyzes diamonds, color gemstones and pearls at its laboratories in Lucerne, Switzerland, Hong Kong and New York, said that the nanotechnology could offer transparency across the industry, to large and small mining companies, governments, trade organizations, industry watchdogs, jewelry brands and customers.

Gübelin is "looking to develop relationships with all stakeholders in the supply chain," they said to National Jeweler. 

The Latest

Image #1_Resized.png
Supplier BulletinAug 28, 2025
Clientbook Is Helping Jewelers Turn Clienteling Challenges into Wins with Hands-On Training and Coaching

Sponsored by Clientbook

Botswana President Duma Boko
SourcingAug 28, 2025
Botswana Declares Public Health Emergency Amid Diamond Sales Slump

President Duma Boko addressed the country’s medical supply chain crisis in a recent televised address.

Afton Robertson-Kanne Borsheims
MajorsAug 28, 2025
Borsheims Names New Jewelry Buyer

Former Free People buyer Afton Robertson-Kanne recently joined the retailer.

japac-btyb.png
Brought to you by
Rallying Call for the Jewelry Industry on Tariffs and Other Key Issues

Jewelers of America is leading the charge to protect the industry amidst rising economic threats.

Sissy’s Log Cabin Back to School and Bling
IndependentsAug 28, 2025
Sissy’s Log Cabin Donates School Supplies to Memphis Students

The jeweler teamed up with two local organizations for its inaugural “Back to School and Bling” event.

Weekly QuizAug 22, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Taylor Swift Engaged
EditorsAug 27, 2025
Taylor Swift’s Engagement Ring Is a Fairy Tale for Vintage Diamond Cuts

The singer’s new bling, reportedly a natural old mine-cut diamond, is no paper ring.

11,685-carat Imboo emerald
SourcingAug 27, 2025
11,685-Carat Emerald Recovered From Zambia’s Kagem Mine

Dubbed the “Imboo,” or “buffalo,” emerald, the rough gemstone is part of Gemfields’ latest emerald auction, which is taking place now.

rio-article photo-diamond.jpg
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine Jewelry

As a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.

Shopping cart
SurveysAug 27, 2025
Consumer Confidence Slips in August Amid Job, Income Worries

Plans for dining out, booking vacations, and buying big-ticket items were down.

Mine + Found Play Collection Prize Bubble Locket, Whistle Pendent, Fortune Dice
CollectionsAug 27, 2025
Mined + Found’s New Collection Gets Playful

The “Play” collection centers on nostalgic toys that have kinetic elements to carry playfulness and wonder into adulthood.

CCWW lifesaver necklace
CollectionsAug 26, 2025
Does Your Jewelry Stack Need a Snack?

Designer Christina Puchi, the creative force behind CCWW Designs, has created charms and pendants based on iconic candies and crackers.

Nick Jonas x Fossil Campaign
WatchesAug 26, 2025
Nick Jonas Gets Nostalgic in New Fossil Campaign

The Jonas Brothers star showed off new timepieces against the backdrop of his favorite spots in his home state of New Jersey.

Wally Hinkamp and Donna Hinkamp Warren
IndependentsAug 26, 2025
Hinkamp Jewelers Celebrates 70 Years

The family-owned jeweler in Fayetteville, North Carolina, is in the hands of the second generation.

Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsAug 26, 2025
Back to School, Back to Style: Why August is Prime Time for Self-Gifting

In his latest column, Emmanuel Raheb shares tips for encouraging customers to treat themselves to new jewelry.

London Jewelers Rolex East Hampton Boutique Exterior
WatchesAug 25, 2025
London Jewelers Brings Rolex to Historic Hamptons Home

The new stand-alone Rolex boutique is housed in the former Odd Fellows Hall, a landmark built in 1897.

Madison Keys
CollectionsAug 25, 2025
Tennis Star Madison Keys Has the Perfect Necklace for the US Open

The Brilliant Earth ambassador co-designed a diamond medallion featuring meaningful symbols.

Marie Lichtenberg emerald and diamond locket on the 18-karat gold “Rosa” chain
TrendsAug 25, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: That’s a Wrap

Wrap jewelry is more than just a trend; it’s the perfect motif for the coming season of layering, scarves, and pumpkin spice.

WatchTime New York
WatchesAug 25, 2025
WatchTime NY Show Returns for 10th Anniversary Edition

The three-day watch collector show, coming this October, will feature 44 exhibiting brands, as well as a new dinner experience.

Retrouvaí Diamond Vein Bond Collar
CollectionsAug 22, 2025
Piece of the Week: Retrouvaí’s ‘Diamond Vein Bond’ Collar

The one-of-a-kind collar represents the beauty of imperfection and the strength to rebuild.

Kendra Scott
MajorsAug 22, 2025
Kendra Scott Returns as CEO of Her Jewelry Empire

Three C-suite executives, including former CEO Tom Nolan, have resigned as part of what the company describes as a “transition.”

Claire’s storefront
MajorsAug 21, 2025
Claire’s Finds Buyer, Could Save up to 950 Stores

The retailer, which recently filed Chapter 11, inked a deal to sell its North American business and intellectual property.

Target CEO Brian Cornell and COO Michael Fiddelke
MajorsAug 21, 2025
Target Names New CEO as Sales Continue to Lag

Target CEO Brian Cornell will step down in February and be replaced by the company’s chief operating officer, Michael Fiddelke.

Jewelers of America in Washington DC
Policies & IssuesAug 21, 2025
JA, IDMA Talk Tariffs With Execs in DC

The group met with the president's senior trade advisor earlier this week to express the industry’s concerns about the effects of tariffs.

Tiffany & Co. Pop Up at U.S. Open
MajorsAug 21, 2025
Tiffany & Co. Pops Up at 2025 US Open

The pop-up will display this year's Tiffany & Co. Singles Championship trophies along with a diamond-encrusted tennis racket and ball.

Bellman’s Jewelers The Truthful Jeweler Alex Bellman
IndependentsAug 20, 2025
Bellman’s Jewelers Opens Second Store After COO's TikTok Takes Off

The New Hampshire-based store has expanded to Boston, propelled by the success of Alex Bellman’s TikTok page, “The Truthful Jeweler.”

Stock image of police cars with lights flashing
CrimeAug 20, 2025
Another CA Jewelry Store Rammed With Car, Robbed

The latest incident happened Monday at a store in Oakland, California, continuing a pattern JSA first warned about last month.

Oris New York Harbor Limited Edition II Watch
WatchesAug 20, 2025
Oris Launches Watch Benefiting NYC Harbor Oyster Restoration

The new aqua green New York Harbor Limited Edition II is the watchmaker’s second collaboration with the Billion Oyster Project.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy