The Indian jewelry brand recently opened stores in Atlanta and Seattle.
Gübelin Gem Lab Debuts ‘Emerald Paternity Test’
The new technology introduced at Baselworld can trace an emerald to the mine of its origin.

Introduced at Baselworld 2017, Gübelin’s “Emerald Paternity Test” involves applying DNA-based nanoparticles directly onto rough emerald crystals at mining sites.
Nanotechnology deals with particles less than 100 nanometers large. The particles aren't visible to the naked eye or even under an optical microscope, so a stone’s properties and grading won’t be affected by the application.
Gübelin’s application process is designed to withstand all steps of an emerald’s journey, from cutting to cleaning, polishing, transporting and setting, so that the nanoparticles will act as a permanent origin tag.
Just like a human's DNA is specific to each individual, the tag will be unique to each mine.

“This technology offers all stakeholders along the entire supply chain, from the miner to the final customers, proof of the exact source of emeralds, instilling confidence and creating trust,” said Daniel Nyfeler, managing director of Gübelin Gem Lab. “It enables a new level of transparency for the gemstone trade.”
Gübelin worked with Gemfields, majority owner of the world’s largest emerald mine, the Kagem Mine in Zambia, to test the new technology.
“Partnering with Gemfields for the feasibility study was an obvious choice,” Nyfeler said, “as it is not only an industry leader, but a forward-thinking company, and hence a perfect partner to test a ground-breaking idea such as this paternity test for emeralds.”
The results were a success and Gemfields told National Jeweler it would "continue to tag emerald production coming through the auction system."
Gemfields CEO Ian Harebottle explained, “Embracing innovation, technology and increased transparency is at the heart of our approach. We were therefore thrilled to assist Gübelin in the testing of this new technology, and we are very excited about the outcome as it offers a multitude of benefits to the industry and the consumer.”
For now, the paternity test will only work for emeralds, as the DNA-based nanoparticles are able to adhere to the fissures unique to the gemstone, and remain there through all processing.
Gübelin, which analyzes diamonds, color gemstones and pearls at its laboratories in Lucerne, Switzerland, Hong Kong and New York, said that the nanotechnology could offer transparency across the industry, to large and small mining companies, governments, trade organizations, industry watchdogs, jewelry brands and customers.
Gübelin is "looking to develop relationships with all stakeholders in the supply chain," they said to National Jeweler.
The Latest

CEO Beth Gerstein shared its most popular price points, what’s trending in non-bridal fine jewelry, and its holiday performance.

The 15 pieces were crafted from the “Insofu” emerald, discovered in Zambia in 2010.

Supplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA

Chris Anderson is joining the insurance provider as the new chief financial officer and treasurer.


Jewelers of America is distributing a brochure for retailers to use when discussing the differences between natural and lab-grown diamonds.

The industry is changing as it grapples with new realities around distribution, supply, and the need for consistent, effective marketing.

Natural diamonds mean more than lab-grown, but when every cut is ideal, they all look the same. Customers want more—Facets of Fire delivers.

Bhansali discusses the potential impact of U.S. tariffs, demand for diamonds by market, and the “cautious confidence” in India right now.

As lab-grown diamond brands pop up across India, academics are researching how to grow demand outside of the jewelry industry.

Govind Dholakia and Tanishq will be recognized for their contributions to the industry at the Diamonds Do Good Awards in Las Vegas.

The New York City-based brand has opened its first U.K. location with a permanent shop-in-shop at Liberty in London.

A metal detectorist discovered the ring that is believed to have belonged to a bishop in the late 12th to early 13th century.

Organizers looked to new partnerships and interactive experiences to enhance the spring show, set for March 16 to 18.

Kenewendo, Botswana’s minister of minerals and energy, will discuss the future of diamonds.

The suspect allegedly stole almost $800,000 worth of diamond jewelry from a store in Orlando and then swallowed it during a traffic stop.

Ahead of the Gem Awards on Friday, Jen Cullen Williams and Duvall O’Steen share pro tips for taking the best photos.

Founded in 2000, Marco Bicego is commemorating its milestone anniversary with a “25 Best” collection and campaigns honoring its heritage.

Those attending the company’s upcoming Zoom workshop will receive early access to “The List,” its new resource for finding buyers.

The organization will present an award to Amy-Elise Signeavsky, law enforcement and diamond recovery manager at GIA.

Chandler started his jewelry career at Michelson Jewelers, joining the Diamond Council of America as president and CEO in 2001.

Scottish American designer Maeve Gillies collaborated with Platinum Guild International on jewelry created by direct metal 3D printing.

Ahead of its trade show in May, TJS awarded free registration and accommodations to five up-and-coming jewelry industry professionals.

The 2025 Gem Awards are set to take place Friday at Cipriani 42nd Street in New York City.

The annual star-studded campaign for International Women’s Day encourages collective action against domestic violence.

The statement piece is seen in Yeprem’s new “You Play the Game” campaign, created for International Women’s Day.

Longtime employee Kyle Slosson has been promoted to the role.