Grading

Gübelin Gem Lab Debuts ‘Emerald Paternity Test’

GradingMar 28, 2017

Gübelin Gem Lab Debuts ‘Emerald Paternity Test’

The new technology introduced at Baselworld can trace an emerald to the mine of its origin.

20170328_Gubelin-header.jpg
The world’s largest emerald mine, the Kagem Mine located in Zambia, was the site of Gübelin Gem Lab’s preliminary Emerald Paternity Test. Kagem Mine is majority-owned by Gemfields.
Basel, Switzerland--When developing a method to make emeralds completely traceable, Gübelin Gem Lab looked to DNA. 

Introduced at Baselworld 2017, Gübelin’s “Emerald Paternity Test” involves applying DNA-based nanoparticles directly onto rough emerald crystals at mining sites.

Nanotechnology deals with particles less than 100 nanometers large. The particles aren't visible to the naked eye or even under an optical microscope, so a stone’s properties and grading won’t be affected by the application.

Gübelin’s application process is designed to withstand all steps of an emerald’s journey, from cutting to cleaning, polishing, transporting and setting, so that the nanoparticles will act as a permanent origin tag.

Just like a human's DNA is specific to each individual, the tag will be unique to each mine. 

This is an image of the DNA-based nanoparticles applied directly to rough emerald crystals as part of the emerald paternity test. The particles are invisible to the human eye and even to optical microscopes. At any point in time, the particles can be decoded to reveal a stone’s origin.
This is an image of the DNA-based nanoparticles applied directly to rough emerald crystals as part of the emerald paternity test. The particles are invisible to the human eye and even to optical microscopes. At any point in time, the particles can be decoded to reveal a stone’s origin.

“This technology offers all stakeholders along the entire supply chain, from the miner to the final customers, proof of the exact source of emeralds, instilling confidence and creating trust,” said Daniel Nyfeler, managing director of Gübelin Gem Lab. “It enables a new level of transparency for the gemstone trade.”

Gübelin worked with Gemfields, majority owner of the world’s largest emerald mine, the Kagem Mine in Zambia, to test the new technology. 

“Partnering with Gemfields for the feasibility study was an obvious choice,” Nyfeler said, “as it is not only an industry leader, but a forward-thinking company, and hence a perfect partner to test a ground-breaking idea such as this paternity test for emeralds.”

The results were a success and Gemfields told National Jeweler it would "continue to tag emerald production coming through the auction system."

Gemfields CEO Ian Harebottle explained, “Embracing innovation, technology and increased transparency is at the heart of our approach. We were therefore thrilled to assist Gübelin in the testing of this new technology, and we are very excited about the outcome as it offers a multitude of benefits to the industry and the consumer.”

For now, the paternity test will only work for emeralds, as the DNA-based nanoparticles are able to adhere to the fissures unique to the gemstone, and remain there through all processing.

Gübelin, which analyzes diamonds, color gemstones and pearls at its laboratories in Lucerne, Switzerland, Hong Kong and New York, said that the nanotechnology could offer transparency across the industry, to large and small mining companies, governments, trade organizations, industry watchdogs, jewelry brands and customers.

Gübelin is "looking to develop relationships with all stakeholders in the supply chain," they said to National Jeweler. 
Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

Omar Roy mugshot
CrimeAug 05, 2025
Report: Suspect Arrested in 1992 Murder of Miami Jeweler

Omar Roy, 72, was arrested in connection with the murder of jeweler Dionisio Carlos Valladares.

Mignon Faget Beyond Katrina Pendant and Beyond Katrina Pin
CollectionsAug 05, 2025
Mignon Faget Commemorates 20th Anniversary of Hurricane Katrina

The New Orleans-based brand’s “Beyond Katrina” jewels honor the communities affected by the storm.

National Jeweler columnist Lilian Raji
ColumnistsAug 05, 2025
The PR Adviser: Affiliate Marketing Is the Cost of Coverage

Lilian Raji explains why joining an affiliate network is essential for brands seeking placements in U.S. consumer publications.

rio-article photo-diamond.jpg
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine Jewelry

As a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.

Jewelers of America Logo
Events & AwardsAug 05, 2025
JA Announces Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship Winners

The organization has awarded a total of $42,000 through its scholarship programs this year.

Weekly QuizJul 31, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
2026 Gem Awards logo
Events & AwardsAug 04, 2025
Gem Awards, David Yurman Introduce $50K Grant for Emerging Designers

The winner of the inaugural David Yurman Gem Awards Grant will be announced live at the 2026 Gem Awards gala.

Marlo Laz peridot and diamond Alexandra earrings
TrendsAug 04, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: August’s Bright Baubles

As summer winds down, celebrate the sunny disposition of the month’s birthstones: peridot and spinel.

an instructor and a student in a bench jewelry classroom
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

Surveillance image of Watch King robbery suspect
CrimeAug 04, 2025
‘The Watch King’ Assaulted, Robbed in Queens

Moshe Haimoff, a social media personality and 47th Street retailer, was robbed of $559,000 worth of jewelry by men in construction outfits.

Xavier Dibbrell
MajorsAug 04, 2025
Borsheims Welcomes New Assistant Facilities Manager

Xavier Dibbrell brings more than a decade of experience to the role.

Signet Jewelers logo
MajorsAug 01, 2025
Helzberg President Julie Yoakum Moves Over to Signet Jewelers

The addition of Yoakum, who will lead Kay and Peoples, was one of three executive appointments Signet announced Thursday.

Mike Alexander
MajorsAug 01, 2025
Jewelers Mutual Names Mike Alexander as President

The insurance company’s previous president and CEO, Scott Murphy, has split his role and will continue as CEO.

 Gemfields rough rubies
SourcingAug 01, 2025
Gemfields’ Auction Revenue Drops 50% in H1

The nearly six-month pause of operations at its Kagem emerald mine earlier this year impacted the miner’s first-half results.

Hernsdorf Tears of Aphrodite Necklace
CollectionsAug 01, 2025
Piece of the Week: Hernsdorf’s ‘Tears of Aphrodite’ Necklace

The necklace uses spinel drops to immortalize the moment Aphrodite’s tears mixed with her lover Adonis’ blood after he was fatally wounded.

Stock image of a polished diamonds being held by tweezers
SourcingJul 31, 2025
De Beers Records $189M First-Half Loss

The diamond miner and marketer warned last week that it expected to be in the red after significantly cutting prices in Q2.

Lindsey Scoggins Studio convertible flower earrings
Events & AwardsJul 31, 2025
These Are the 2025 CASE Award Winners

Jewelers of America’s 35th annual design contest recognized creativity, artistry, style, and excellence.

Matthew Tratner, new president of Continental Buying Group
IndependentsJul 31, 2025
Matthew Tratner Takes Over as CBG President

Tratner succeeds Andie Weinman, who will begin stepping back from the buying group’s day-to-day operations.

Stock image of rough diamonds from the Kimberley mine
Policies & IssuesJul 30, 2025
Tariff on India Will Be 25%, Trump Says

The president made the announcement via Truth Social Wednesday, adding that India also will face a penalty for its dealings with Russia.

Pomellato Mini London blue topaz and diamond bracelet
FinancialsJul 30, 2025
Kering's Jewelry Brands Resilient As H1 Sales Slide 16%

The luxury titan’s star brand Gucci continued to struggle amid a "tough" environment.

Zadok Rolex Austin
WatchesJul 30, 2025
Peek Inside Zadok Jewelers’ New Rolex Showroom in Austin

Its opening marks the completion of the retailer’s new 11,000-square-foot store in the Texas capital.

Crowd of people in a shopping mall
SurveysJul 30, 2025
Consumer Confidence Ticks Up in July

Respondents shared concerns about tariffs and commentary on the “Big Beautiful Bill.”

Making a Killing in Diamonds by Rob Bates
SourcingJul 30, 2025
Rob Bates to Release Latest Book in His ‘Diamond District Mystery’ Series

“Making a Killing in Diamonds” tells the story of Mimi Rosen, the disappearance of a scientist, and the murder of lab-grown diamond CEO.

Tacori bezel-set diamond bands
EditorsJul 29, 2025
Out & About: Visiting Tacori’s Design Studio in LA

Senior Editor Lenore Fedow learned a lot when she took a behind-the-scenes factory tour with the jewelry brand earlier this year.

Mighty Fierce Audacious Necklace, Sandy Rubin Aziza Necklace, Koulianos Designs Illuminations Shield Pendant
Events & AwardsJul 29, 2025
Melee The Show Welcomes 15 New Designers

The first-time exhibitors, set to debut at the New York City show, share a devotion to craftsmanship, storytelling, and material integrity.

Auctim emerald auction
SourcingJul 29, 2025
Auctim to Offer 7.3M+ Carats of Rough Emeralds

The online auction house’s September sale will feature rough Brazilian emeralds of various qualities.

AGS Board President for 2025-2026 Alexis Padis
MajorsJul 29, 2025
Alexis Padis Re-Elected AGS Board President

She’ll lead an executive committee consisting of President-Elect Bryan Moeller, Mitchell Clark, Bill Farmer, and Larry Rickert.

Stock image of shipping containers
Policies & IssuesJul 28, 2025
U.S.-EU Come to Agreement on Tariffs

Announced Sunday, the deal will set the tax on goods imported into the United States from the European Union at 15 percent.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy