Editors

These 10 Designers Are About To Be the Talk of Couture

EditorsMay 30, 2019

These 10 Designers Are About To Be the Talk of Couture

Get to know the jewelry trade show’s new Design Atelier class.

20190530_DAPreview.jpg
A ring from Prounis, one of ten designers new to the Couture show’s Design Atelier this year.

It’s all happening.

As Las Vegas jewelry week kicks off, retailers are on the lookout for the new and noteworthy, and there’s no better place to start than the Couture show’s Design Atelier.

An incubator for fresh jewelry talent, the DA can act as a launching pad for emerging brands to get in front of some of the world’s most influential retail tastemakers.

This year, 10 brands are joining the Couture fray as they make their DA debuts at the jewelry trade show. Here’s an introduction, and yes, no matter how busy the week, you should make time for each of them.


Jewelers in need of a fresh design perspective need look no further than Aisha Baker. Designed by duo Aisha Baker and Hoonik Chang out of Dubai and crafted by artisans in London, the brand hits several current jewelry trend boxes (Enamel? Check. Color? Whimsy? Check and check.) but is still original.

Check out their graphic, puzzle-like rings that bring to mind chaotic cityscapes, and their overtly feminine ribbon-inspired collection, as seen above.


At the moment, designers are infatuated with enamel and the robust variety of color options the medium provides. Andy Lif is having a romance with plique-a-jour enamel, to be specific, and its somewhat translucent quality.

The way in which the designer frames his enamel with gold is reminiscent of stained glass. He also shares his penchant for color through a variety of mouthwatering gemstones he sets as solitaires.


It’s difficult to do Italian designer Anna Maccieri Rossi justice with words. To say that a pendant features meticulously hand-engraved mother-of-pearl doesn’t quite suffice in communicating the designer’s originality.

Nonetheless, I’ll give it a shot. She’s taking Swiss watchmaking techniques to jewelry, incorporating moving parts into a cuff, for example. Applying painstakingly esoteric levels of craftsmanship to her depictions of natural motifs like the night sky, a wolf, or a bear lends these subjects a surreal, almost mythical quality. The bottom line: Check it out in person to experience the full effect.


Like Anna Maccieri Rossi, Bia Tambelli has shown at jewelry trade show Vicenzaoro’s DA counterpart, “The Design Room.”

The Brazilian designer’s latest collection finds her ruminating on the universal perfection of geometry and the significance of particular numbers and shapes across various religions and philosophies. Tambelli expresses these ideas in elaborate pyramid-shaped rings and cuffs that feel like mini sculptures.


Liza Borzaya High Jewellery
creates just that—one-of-a-kind pieces with spectacular stones. The Russian designer has a particular affinity for a hand bracelet, and this is where her imagination seem to run the most wild, portraying whimsical vignettes of various flora and fauna.


In the small amount of time since she’s launched her eponymous line, Jean Prounis has garnered a buzz among press, earning a much coveted spot in Town & Country editor Will Khan’s “Will’s Notebook” Instagram account, which subsequently ended up in The New York Times (a press coup if there ever was one).

The adoration is based on talent. The young designer is informed by her Greek heritage and seeks ancient inspiration to create utterly timeless pieces in 22-karat gold, in a specific alloy she customized. She also shows a surprising amount of restraint and design maturity for a jeweler in her 20s, which is sure to resonate with stores.


Graphic, geometric silhouettes and plenty of diamond and gemstone bling create the fierce elegance that is Ralph Masri.

The Lebanese designer might be new to Couture, but he’s not quite under the radar. Among his many admirers is Queen Rania, who is often photographed in Masri’s jewels.


French-American Sandrine de Laage is a jewelry world veteran, having worked for the likes of Cartier, Harry Winston and De Beers. Perhaps honing her talents at brands with mass appeal explain why her jewelry possesses such a wearable ease.

Interlocking rings and sleek ID bracelets are no-brainers for the self-purchaser—they’re classic but with a contemporary, cool feel, the perfect base of an excellent jewelry wardrobe.


Look at Satta Matturi’s Instagram, and you can see the namesake designer’s favorite piece of jewelry to create is an earring.

Intricate metalwork accented with an array of diamonds, and always a splash of colored gemstone, fan out from earlobes, each style slightly more elaborate than the next.


If State Property had to be expressed in one piece of jewelry, I’d put my money on a cocktail ring.

Large-scale and symmetrical with enamel, diamonds and gemstones are all elements that add up to produce some seriously covetable and hard-to-miss ring styles.
Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

Ella Klein Interns Jamie Dunton and Gabriella Botelho
Events & AwardsDec 20, 2024
Two Participants Complete Inaugural Ella Klein Internship

Jamie Dunton and Gabriella Botelho are the first graduates of the program, created by the WJA Foundation and Julius Klein Diamonds.

Retrouvai Green Sapphire and Diamond Heirloom Bezel Ring for Charity
CollectionsDec 20, 2024
Piece of the Week: Retrouvaí’s Ring for Charity

In the spirit of giving, Retrouvaí will donate $4,000 from the sale of this ring to the Los Angeles Regional Food Bank.

DeVries Jewelers
IndependentsDec 19, 2024
Michigan’s DeVries Jewelers Unveils New Location in Time for the Holidays

Co-owner Dan DeVries shared what it’s like moving into a space triple the size of its old store and how it feels to be a “real jeweler” now.

me_myself_and_I_1872x1052 .jpg
Brought to you by
De Beers Group Launches Holiday Campaign for Natural Diamonds

‘Forever Present’ campaign revives the iconic A Diamond is Forever tagline and celebrates the diamond dream.

State Property Gardens Collection Campaign
CollectionsDec 19, 2024
State Property Transforms Spain’s Generalife Gardens into Jewelry

Along with the latest “Gardens” collection, the brand has released limited-edition designs offering more indulgent pieces.

Weekly QuizDec 19, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Two people in a rowboat
CrimeDec 19, 2024
Alleged Jewelry Thieves Attempt Rowboat Escape

The man and woman are accused of stealing jewelry from a shipping container then trying to flee by paddling a small boat out into a bay.

2488-carat diamond found in Botswana
SourcingDec 19, 2024
The Second-Largest Diamond Ever Found Now Has a Name

The 2,488-carat diamond recovered from a mine in Botswana has been dubbed “Motswedi” while its 1,094-carat sibling is “Seriti.”

ja nj btyb.jpg
Brought to you by
Advocacy and Excellence: How Jewelers of America Is Committed to Elevating Our Industry

For over a century, Jewelers of America has been the voice of the industry and valuable resource to jewelers across the country.

Rough rubies
SourcingDec 19, 2024
Gemfields Reports Record Ruby Auction Results Despite Challenges at Source

The average price per carat hit a record high for the miner, which said it remains unaffected by the conflict in Mozambique.

alexandrite ring
AuctionsDec 18, 2024
Alexandrite Ring Sells for Record-Setting $1.9M at Sotheby’s

The nearly 17-carat stone made history for the color-change gem that, according to the auction house, is experiencing a “notable surge” in the market.

Tiffany & Co. pocket watch gifted to captain of the Carpathia
WatchesDec 18, 2024
Historic Titanic Pocket Watch Winds Its Way Back to Tiffany & Co.

More than a century after survivors gifted a Tiffany timepiece to the captain of the ship that rescued them, the jeweler has reclaimed it.

Picchiotti Spotlight Campaign Video Still
TechnologyDec 18, 2024
Picchiotti Utilizes AI in ‘Spotlight’ Video Campaign

The videos highlight how pieces from the “Xpandable” and “Reversible Xpandable” collections put the wearer in the spotlight.

Steve Feldman
IndependentsDec 18, 2024
Industry Veteran Steve Feldman Set to Retire

Feldman reflected on 45 years in the jewelry industry and clarified that it’s not a total retirement.

Chanel Quilted Stars Necklace
Events & AwardsDec 17, 2024
Chanel to Receive Gem Award for High Jewelry Excellence

The luxury brand is being honored for excellence in high jewelry design in its “Haute Joaillerie Sport” collection.

Frank Circelli
SourcingDec 17, 2024
Frank Circelli, Founder of Gem Shopping Network, Dies at 75

Circelli was a pioneer in the world of TV shopping who is remembered for his passion for gemstones and his big personality.

Blue diamond ring
AuctionsDec 17, 2024
Blue Diamond Fetches $8.8M at Christie’s

The nearly 6-carat stone headlined the recent jewelry auction, which also featured Mica Ertegun’s jewelry.

Stock image of a gavel, handcuffs, and books
CrimeDec 17, 2024
‘Black Bin Crew’ Robbers Get 14-16 Years in Prison

The three men, who got their nickname because they’d toss the jewelry they stole into black plastic bins, were arrested back in August.

Cover of the new book “The History of Diamond Engagement Rings: A True Romance”
TrendsDec 16, 2024
Marion Fasel’s New Book Delves Into the History of Engagement Rings

“The History of Diamond Engagement Rings: A True Romance” is a 128-page small-format book containing more than 165 images.

Rolex store on Rodeo Drive
WatchesDec 16, 2024
Take a Look Inside the New Rolex Boutique on Rodeo Drive

Gearys opened a 6,200-square-foot Rolex store with a design that pays homage to the brand’s connection to the ocean.

GCAL 8X pear and marquise-cut diamonds
GradingDec 16, 2024
GCAL By Sarine Expands 8X to 2 More Fancy Shapes

The diamond cut grade is now available for marquise- and pear-shaped diamonds.

Claudia Cividino, Sissy’s Log Cabin, Shri Govind Dholakia, Tanishq
SourcingDec 16, 2024
Diamonds Do Good Announces 2025 Award Recipients

DDG said the honorees’ business practices embody a commitment to positive social impact, industry innovation, and community empowerment.

Selena Gomez, Benny Blanco, Engagement Ring
TrendsDec 13, 2024
Selena Gomez Said ‘Forever Begins Now’ to Marquise Diamond Engagement Ring

Estimates on the size and value of the solitaire diamond, which is mounted on a diamond pavé-set yellow gold band, vary.

Martin Katz tanzanite drop earrings
TrendsDec 13, 2024
Piece of the Week: Martin Katz’s Tanzanite Drops

These half-moon tanzanite earrings totaling 25 carats are part of a special trunk show taking place this weekend in Dallas.

My Next Question webinar graphic
Recorded WebinarsDec 13, 2024
Watch: The Highs and Lows of 2024

The National Jeweler editors recap the top news, the best jewels, and their favorite stories of the year.

Tom Brady’s Rolex Daytona Paul Newman “John Player Special”
AuctionsDec 12, 2024
Tom Brady’s Watches Top $4M at Sotheby’s Auction

The highest-grossing lot of the sale was the retired QB’s Rolex Paul Newman Daytona “John Player Special.”

Grizzly emerald mining
SourcingDec 12, 2024
Grizzly Emerald Auction Garners $22.4M

Recent expansion initiatives at the Zambian emerald mine have shown strong production numbers, said Grizzly founder Abdoulaye Ndiaye.

Carrie Forman
MajorsDec 12, 2024
Mark Henry Appoints New Director of Sales

Carrie Forman joins the brand to guide it into the next phase of growth with major and independent retailers in the U.S. and abroad.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy