Editors

Sustainability Stories: Mine to Market with Moyo Gemstones

EditorsApr 29, 2019

Sustainability Stories: Mine to Market with Moyo Gemstones

The first in a new series from Senior Editor Brecken Branstrator highlights a program bringing tracked gems from women miners in Tanzania to market and improving mining along the way.

20190429_Moyo-5.jpg
A new pilot program launched by Pact, a non-governmental organization, and gemstone trading partners brings tracked and traced gems from women miners in Tanzania to market.
The challenges associated with creating a supply chain that’s transparent, traceable and ethical are myriad.

Responsible sourcing, its obstacles and how to tackle them are among the industry’s hottest topics today, especially in the colored gemstone sector.

While discussion on these topics is necessary, it can be easy to get caught up in conversations about what still needs to happen without stopping to appreciate the concrete work being done by individuals and industry bodies today.

To that end, I’ve decided to launch a blog series highlighting real projects and initiatives undertaken by companies big and small, not only to celebrate them but to show what’s possible.

I’m kicking it off with a look at a recently launched program called Moyo Gemstones—so named because it means positive things in several different African languages—designed to help gemstones extracted by female miners in Tanga, Tanzania, move from mine to market while improving the lives of the women along the way.

The pilot project is a collaboration between the non-governmental organization Pact, Monica Stephenson’s Anza Gems and Nineteen48, with input from the Tanzania Women Miners Association (TAWOMA) and a blockchain addition from Everledger.

Building a Foundation
Moyo Gemstones builds on work already done in the area. The Gemological Institute of America approached Pact in 2016 to partner on an education program for miners, and the pilot took place in the Tanga province. 

Cristina Villegas, director of Mines to Markets at Pact, told me in a recent interview that while the program was successful in helping these women drastically increase sales, Pact realized they were still selling on a subsistence basis and that more needed to be done to help them find equal footing in today’s gem market. 

Collaborating with the miners and other players, Pact designed the mine-to-market program now called Moyo Gemstones, empowering the women to work safer, mine better, improve financial security and create equitable markets for their gems.

A couple of the miners in Tanzania with Anza Gems’ Monica Stephenson
A couple of the miners in Tanzania with Anza Gems’ Monica Stephenson

Not only do they want to effect change in the gemstone supply chain and the way gems benefit the communities from which they come, but also offer storytelling around them. 

“Consumers, regardless of commodity, are looking for different ways to interact and to make an impact through their purchasing power,” said Rebecca Villalobos, a member of Pact’s Innovation team. 

Based on direct feedback from the miners, Moyo Gemstones decided to hold “market days” in which all the women travel to a central location to sell their goods, providing a regular, controlled system for Moyo miners to do business with vetted local brokers and traders.

Each woman who wants to participate must be verified as a legal miner, among other considerations.

Moyo Gemstones will use the pilot phase to figure out how often the market days should happen. The first one is scheduled for May.

(A side note: The Tanzanian government has yet to officially lift the ban on rough gemstone exports instituted last year but has started to implement a few changes. Regardless, Villegas said the government has been supportive of the program and, because of Pact’s long history in the country, allows Pact to export despite the ban.)

Building the Communities
The Moyo Gemstones initiative is intriguing not only because it’s helping bring gems from vetted local miners to market, but also because it’s working to improve mining directly.

They are partnering with Tanzanian engineering services firm MTL Consulting to improve health and safety, working conditions, and basic geological and engineering support for enrolled miners. The firm has experience working with the Fairtrade Foundation’s ASM gold miners in East Africa.

Pact is also working with the Alliance for Responsible Mining to adapt the Code of Risk-Mitigation for ASM engaging in Formal Trade (CRAFT)—a global “entry” standard for due diligence in artisanal and small-scale mining—to colored gemstones.

“If we want to include as many (miners) as we can and change their lives, we have to meet them where they are but also set expectations and incentives,” Villegas said.

They will work with MTL Consulting to get the Moyo miners to CRAFT level over time.

In the meantime, as CRAFT for Gemstones develops, they will track progress against local laws, to which CRAFT is closely aligned, and aim to reinvest back into the community through staffed health clinics and teacher housing, which the women miners indicated are top priorities.

Adding Traceability
There’s another interesting aspect to the project.

Pact has been working with Everledger, the same tech company that developed Gubelin’s Provenance Proof blockchain, to develop a blockchain suitable for these artisanal miners.

Stones will first be recorded on the blockchain at market days. (There’s information on the reasoning behind that on the Moyo Gemstones website.)

When asked if this project presented any unique challenges, given the ASM aspect, compared with others they had worked on in colored stones, Carrie George, Everledger’s vice president, head of sustainability solutions, said when the company developed Provenance Proof with Gübelin, they already had taken ASM miners into account.

“One key factor that we needed to ensure was the ease of use and simplification of the process.”

Pact, Anza Gems and Nineteen48 worked directly with the women miners to put together a program that is feasible.
Pact, Anza Gems and Nineteen48 worked directly with the women miners to put together a program that is feasible.

She said teaming with the right partner, Pact, has been crucial in this project since they have so much experience on the ground with ASM miners. She added that education and training are important, which Pact has enabled through on-the-ground support and training.

“Everledger has evaluated the most effective and low-cost solutions for miners to provide chain-of-custody information. This combination is essential for downstream retailers to be able to confidently source ASM gems and, therefore, support their livelihoods.”

Pact and Everledger also had to keep the miners’ security in mind, meaning they had to balance providing enough information to allow for transparency and rich storytelling with privacy considerations.

“Part of the challenge here is recognizing that women miners are some of the most vulnerable people in the world,” Villegas said. “There’s usually some kind of shock event that happens to push them into mining. Not always, but often.”

Information visible on the blockchain will show the physical movement of the gemstones as well as who has handled them. There will also be basic information on the traders, exporters, brokers, mining regions and TAWOMA.

Individual miners’ stories and the program’s tracked metrics will not be on the blockchain, however, for both privacy and safety reasons.

Rather, Pact will aggregate the data and share information on MoyoGems.com to allow consumers, designers and retailers to learn more about how the miners are doing and how the program is developing.

Pact will test a few stones on the blockchain at the first market day in May and then improve as they confirm the format and get used to the technology, Villegas said, slowly incorporating blockchain as a complement to the chain of custody being constructed.

Headed to Market
To provide a point of sale for the loose stones the women mine—ruby, sapphire, tourmaline and garnet—Pact partnered with gem trading companies Anza Gems and Nineteen48. The two will work with existing traders in the country to buy gems from the participating miners and make them available to the global market.

“From the moment I heard about the GIA/Pact initiative, I could see the potential for a sustainable economic model,” Stephenson, of Anza Gems, said. “This could be a way out of poverty for these women and their children, through a natural resource they can harness. We can help bridge the gap of knowledge to help them mine better, safer and more productively, and give them a fair market value for their gems. And we can help them tell their stories and bring their beautiful gems to light.”

The first market day to connect the women miners of Tanga, Tanzania, with local traders is scheduled to take place in May.
The first market day to connect the women miners of Tanga, Tanzania, with local traders is scheduled to take place in May.

She added that as they worked on the program, local brokers and traders, as well as others in the Tanga community, rallied around it.

“When you elevate women, you are helping the entire community and region.”

Stephenson said faceted gems should be available by early to mid-summer for designers or retailers interested in buying and setting them in jewelry.

Ultimately, Pact is hoping that in building a program in direct collaboration with the miners and using participants and industry members already in place, rather than reinventing the wheel, Moyo will become a scalable project that could be replicated at other artisanal mining sites.

For now, I’m excited to see how this pilot program progresses.

To read more about it or learn how to purchase the miners’ gems, visit MoyoGems.com.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Benjamin Clymer and the Porsche Design x Hodinkee limited-edition watch
WatchesOct 04, 2024
Watches of Switzerland Clocks Another Acquisition—Hodinkee

The company said Benjamin Clymer will return to his role as head of the watch news website, which will maintain editorial independence.

Gabrielle Grazi
MajorsOct 04, 2024
Hearts On Fire Names Gabrielle Grazi VP of Sales, North America

The industry veteran is also the president-elect of the Women’s Jewelry Association.

Ray Griffiths Double Headed Snake Ring
CollectionsOct 04, 2024
Piece of the Week: Ray Griffiths’ ‘Double Headed Snake’ Ring

Slither into spooky season with this scary snake ring that boasts two heads with tsavorite eyes.

Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Enhance Your Expertise with IGI’s In-Person Courses in NYC

This fall, sharpen your skills in jewelry grading, quality control and diamond assessment.

 Hurricane Helene
Policies & IssuesOct 03, 2024
RJO, CERF+ Join Those Offering Hurricane Helene Relief to Affected Jewelers

Plus, how to apply for emergency funds and donate to recovery efforts.

Weekly QuizOct 03, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Forevermark store Mumbai India
SourcingOct 03, 2024
How India Became the World’s Second-Largest Market for Diamond Jewelry

A strong economy, a growing middle class with an affinity for brands, and rapid expansion of organized retail have fueled the market’s rise.

Stock image of police cars with lights on
CrimeOct 03, 2024
Man Who Shared Spoils of $2.7M Smash-and-Grab on Social Media Pleads Guilty to Robbery Charge

Ladell Tharpe, 39, took part in a 2022 jewelry store robbery and then posted pictures of cash on Instagram with the text “Robbery Gang.”

1872x1052-Brought-to-you-By-Article-Image-Top (1).png
Brought to you by
Why You Can't Miss JA New York This Fall

Don't miss this one-stop-shop in October, curated with buyers’ needs in mind.

Sheryl Jones
MajorsOct 03, 2024
JA Appoints New Board Director

The trade organization welcomed Sheryl Jones to its board of directors for a three-year term.

Pandora chief marketing officer Berta de Pablos-Barbier
MajorsOct 03, 2024
Pandora Names 3rd CMO in Past 5 Years

New Chief Marketing Officer Berta de Pablos-Barbier has worked for LVMH’s champagne brands and Kering-owned Boucheron.

Assael earrings
TrendsOct 03, 2024
Amanda’s Style File: October’s Arrival

Transition to fall with this month’s birthstones of opal and tourmaline.

Dame Shirley Bassey’s
AuctionsOct 03, 2024
Dame Shirley Bassey’s Diamonds Are Ready for Their Encore

Sotheby’s will auction jewelry belonging to the “Diamonds Are Forever” singer Oct. 10 in Paris.

New Lightbox campaign with Emma Breschi
Lab-GrownOct 02, 2024
Lightbox Continues as a Brand, While Supplies Last?

The De Beers-owned lab-grown diamond company is rebranding and creating new collections, though its long-term future remains unclear.

Jane Goodall Brilliant Earth Campaign
CollectionsOct 02, 2024
Brilliant Earth Debuts Jane Goodall Collection

The collection is part of the retailer’s new “Rethink Everything You Know About Diamonds” campaign.

Tom Brady and his diamond-set Audemars Piguet Royal Oak watch
AuctionsOct 02, 2024
The GOAT’s Stash: Watches Owned by Tom Brady Going Up for Auction

The sale includes the custom-made, diamond-set Audemars Piguet watch the QB wore for Netflix’s “The Roast of Tom Brady.”

Armenian Jewellers Association logo
Events & AwardsOct 02, 2024
AJA’s Design Competition Now Accepting Entries

The Armenian Jewellers Association is hosting its design competition for the second year, with winners showcasing at GemGenève in May 2025.

Retiring Signet Jewelers CEO Gina Drosos
MajorsOct 01, 2024
Signet Jewelers CEO Gina Drosos to Retire

The jewelry retailer has named her successor and also will expand the role of Chief Financial Officer Joan Hilson.

Woman wearing many rings
MajorsOct 01, 2024
Kay Jewelers to Revamp Brand

The Signet Jewelers-owned banner has a new campaign and plans for store redesigns.

JV Insardi Solar Campaign
CollectionsOct 01, 2024
JV Insardi Inspires Curiosity in New Collection

Creative Director Jen Insardi brings a new take on classic gold bead designs to her “Solar” collection.

Glenn Douglass Oklahoma Jewelers Association
IndependentsOct 01, 2024
Oklahoma Jewelers Association Grants Lifetime Achievement Award

The recipient, Glenn Douglass, also was inducted into the OJA Hall of Fame.

Stuller 2024 Milestone Anniversary Banquet
MajorsOct 01, 2024
Stuller Celebrates Long-Serving Employees

The manufacturer recognized several team members at its 2024 Milestone Anniversary Banquet.

Oscar Heyman emerald ring
AuctionsSep 30, 2024
Oscar Heyman Jewels, Paraíba Pieces Shine at Bonhams Auction

The single-owner collection sale, which took place in New York last week, achieved $4.8 million, with almost every lot finding a buyer.

Yvonne Leon Noeud Ring
TrendsSep 30, 2024
Amanda’s Style File: Dainty Delights

While statement pieces always shine, it’s time for everyday staples to be the star of the show.

Jewelers of America Fly-In
Policies & IssuesSep 30, 2024
JA Fly-In to DC Focuses on Russian Diamonds, Retail Crime

Jewelers of America leadership and members recently headed to D.C. to share the industry’s top concerns with lawmakers.

Graphic with headshots for My Next Question 2024 holiday season
Recorded WebinarsSep 27, 2024
Watch: Prepare to Shine This Holiday Season

Three members of JA's 2024 "20 Under 40" class join Amanda Gizzi and Lauren McLemore to share their tips for seasonal retail success.

Lalaounis Archaeological Revival Necklace
CollectionsSep 27, 2024
Piece of the Week: Lalaounis’ Necklace is an Archaeological Revival

The necklace, inspired by ancient artifacts, celebrates strength, endurance, and the natural world.

Woman wearing Rocksbox jewelry
MajorsSep 27, 2024
Signet-Owned E-Tailer Rocksbox to Launch on Amazon

Rocksbox is the first banner owned by Signet to sell its jewelry through the retail giant.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy