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10 Things I Learned at the AGA’s Tucson Conference
They include updates on the state of the North American natural pearl market, Ethiopian emeralds and tourmaline production.
![They include updates on the state of the North American natural pearl market, Ethiopian emeralds and tourmaline production. 20190227_Shakiso-emerald.jpg](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/33fa84a462d8fe10dda96a92f522ecfa.jpg)
Tucson is not only full of amazing gems but also more knowledge and education than the gem crowd could ever ask for.
Sitting in on these sessions is one of my favorite parts of the trip, since my job requires me to always keep learning, and this year I was thrilled to add the Accredited Gemologists Association’s conference to my schedule.
I learned so much more than could be incorporated into a single blog, but here are just a few of the things I thought you’d all enjoy knowing too, ranging from gemological knowledge to market updates.
1. Locals have full control of the Halo-Shakiso emerald mine in Ethiopia.
The mining site, located about 37 miles from the town of Shakiso, is currently owned by the Bu’a Obsa Cooperative, a group of locals who initially banded together for gold and tantalum mining. It now has hundreds of shareholders from the local community that benefit from the emerald mining.
According to Jeffery Bergman of Primagem in Thailand, only the local tribespeople are allowed access to the mining site at Halo; they dig, extract, sort and grade the material.
2. There’s a variety of material that comes from Halo-Shakiso, including some “really exceptional” gem-quality rough.
According to Bergman, the bases of the emerald crystals are typically heavily included, so the excitement about the material surrounds the top part, where you can find some “really exceptional” gem-quality material.
Bergman also noted during his presentation that about 20 percent of production from the Halo mine doesn’t need any clarity enhancements.
3. Ethiopian emeralds share similarities with other emeralds with schist-based origins so they look like the material from Brazil and Zambia.
This means, Bergman said, that trace element analysis must be done to ascertain a stone’s origin, rather than relying on just inclusions; the GIA said in a 2017 Gems & Gemology article that it was able to separate the material from other sources by comparing trace alkali metals and some transition metals.
RELATED CONTENT: 5 Things to Know About … Ethiopian Emeralds4. The group in control of the Halo-Shakiso emeralds has been working to build it as a brand, mimicking the work of other areas that have done it successfully, such as Muzo.
As part of a project in which Bergman participated but is no longer associated, the Bu’a Obsa association created a logo, slogan, website, obtained photography, established a presence
It remains to be seen how the group will be able to establish their emeralds on the world market, especially given the Ethiopian government’s increasing control over the material.
5. The natural pearl market in the United States is actually a by-product of the button industry, Gina Latendresse of the American Pearl Company said.
By the late 1800s, the freshwater pearl button industry in the U.S. was flourishing, thanks to the number of mussels available in the country’s waters as well as the availability of cheap labor.
Decades later, this would give way to a new market created around cultured pearls in Japan, and, specifically, their need for the nuclei from North American natural pearls.
“All cultured pearls around the world, if they’re using a mother-of-pearl bead, they have a little bit of Tennessee or Mississippi River tributary mollusk inside of them,” she said.
6. As is the case with all pearls, North American natural pearls are rare.
According to Latendresse, only one in 10,000 mussel shells in the U.S. turns up a pearl. Of those, only 5 percent are symmetrical and only 1 percent are more or less round.
7. Natural pearls in North America come in a variety of beautiful, baroque shapes.
The wing shape is arguably the most recognizable, Latendresse said, and lends itself well to jewelry design; they have been used in creations by big brands, such as the Chrysanthemum brooch from Tiffany & Co.
There also are rosebuds, turtlebacks (baroque ovals), drop shapes, bodices, button shapes, snail formations and many others.
North American natural pearls also come in several colors, including white, pink, purple and lavender, as well as the greens and blues from abalone shells on the West Coast, and the pinks and oranges with a flame pattern that’s seen in the conch pearl.
RELATED CONTENT: 5 Things to Know About … Conch Pearls8. Tourmaline has a number of gemological characteristics that make it interesting to the trade.
For one, it can have a very pronounced pleochroism, said Claudio Milisenda, managing director of DSEF German Gem Lab in Idar-Oberstein. This is of great importance to cutters so it can be oriented a certain way.
It also has the capability to polarize light going through the stone, which is why slices of tourmaline cut parallel to the prism were used as a polariscope in ancient times, Milisenda said.
Additionally, tourmaline often shows distinct color zoning, which makes crosscuts of the crystals very popular with collectors.
9. The blue component in blue-green Namibian tourmaline can be removed through heating to make it greener.
Milisenda said darker stones also can be lightened through heat treatment.
This is important to note because both can be done by heating the stones at a temperature of about 650 degrees centigrade, so if it’s a relatively clean stone the inclusion pattern “hardly will change,” he said.
This means there’s no way to detect if this kind of tourmaline has been heat-treated or not, unless it is heated at a temperature above 700 degrees centigrade and checked using a refractometer.
Milisenda also said tourmaline’s color in general can be improved by irradiation. He noted that it’s common for pink tourmaline to be irradiated though it can’t be detected, presenting a dilemma to gemstone dealers.
“How can we disclose that when we are selling pink or red rubellite to a client?” he asked.
10. Here’s a quick production update on Paraiba tourmaline (meaning copper-bearing tourmaline in his case, as per the Laboratory Manual Harmonisation Committee).
Milisenda said supply in Brazil is very low—the Mulungu mine is working through the tailings, and there’s no production at Batalha currently.
He added that Nigeria never had continuous production, and Mozambique is producing an increasing amount of cabochon-quality material.
The Latest
![These “Double Loop” earrings feature a drop-cut amethyst sitting atop the lower hoop, totaling 1.60 carats between both earrings. The hoops are made of silver covered in “pistacchio” colored enamel, while 9-karat yellow gold holds the stones in place and connect the two hoops behind the earlobe ($1,770). Bea Bongiasca’s Double Loop Earrings](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/f338ef6b4603be3c97765f833b831ca0.jpg)
Commemorate “brat summer” with these green hoops.
Sponsored by Gemological Institute of America
![Untitled design.jpg](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/583fbcb2bb839782810080debef35d3c.jpg)
As the demand for lab-grown diamond jewelry may still be increasing, the most notable change we are likely to see is price stabilization.
![Earlier this month, online giant Amazon and the Better Business Bureau filed a joint federal lawsuit against ReviewServiceUSA.com for allegedly selling fake reviews, both positive and negative. Amazon package outside door](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/27fce4225a38900d54a5536ce523a22d.jpg)
They claim ReviewServiceUSA.com was selling both positive and negative reviews of products and businesses.
![](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/99a46b30cc354962ac2e29ecd113587a.jpg)
![A shot of the Venetia diamond mine in South Africa, owned by De Beers Group. The diamond miner and marketer saw revenue drop 21 percent and rough diamond sales decline 20 percent in a “weak” market for diamonds. De Beers’ Venetia diamond mine](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/a1f16ceaaba662e80385166060d192a7.jpg)
Lab-grown diamond sales in the United States and ongoing economic challenges in China are impacting natural diamond demand.
A longtime member of IJO, she’s remembered for her passion for design, learning, and environmentalism.
![1872 x 1052 Gemolite.jpg](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/9d60901b44425a53b9010301897a3bbc.jpg)
GIA®’s most advanced microscope has new features to optimize greater precision and comfort.
![A malachite and diamond bracelet from Pomellato’s “Pom Pom Dot” collection, launched earlier this year. Pomellato and Boucheron were bright spots for Kering in an otherwise underwhelming first half of the year. Pomellato Malachite Pom Pom Dot bracelet](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/3c237b62e009742fc52487097daf3c5a.jpg)
The gains come amid a tough time for parent company Kering, which saw sales slide 11 percent in the first half of the year.
![Volunteers and Shane Co.’s corporate team from all 22 locations of the family-owned jewelry chain have begun packing backpacks with school supplies for teachers to distribute to their students this school year. Shane Co. and the Kids in Need foundation logo](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/1c5abfb36ec775724f014f47bfbb47fc.jpg)
The fine jewelry retailer filled backpacks with back-to-school essentials for students in 13 states.
![A shot from the advertising campaign for LVMH-owned Bulgari’s “Eden the Garden of Wonders” high jewelry collection. LVMH’s jewelry and watch sales slipped in the first half of the fiscal year. Bulgari high jewelry campaign](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/c24eb75ca8cea44d2e9859648f4a98ee.jpg)
Tiffany & Co. is focusing on its “iconic” collections while the company has made changes at the top at TAG Heuer and Hublot.
![Chaumet, a Parisian jeweler owned by LVMH, has designed the Olympic and Paralympic Games medals. Chaumet Paris 2024 Olympics medals](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/7831b3a738baddfc7d783e6df0fbf796.jpg)
The Parisian brand is the first jewelry company in the history of the Olympic and Paralympic Games to design the medals.
![The acquisition of Union Life & Casualty by Jewelers Mutual will help strengthen both the pawn market and the insurance industry, said JM. Jewelers Mutual and Union Life and Casualty logos](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/195925667226ecfc51b4e1bb09607143.jpg)
Union Life & Casualty will join JM Insurance Agency Partners, expanding the provider’s pawnbroker coverage.
![The winner of this year’s Lonia Tate scholarship, Bradlei Smith will receive the opportunity to earn her Graduate Gemologist diploma from GIA and, following graduation, an internship at Ben Bridge Jeweler in Seattle. Bradlei Smith](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/996834935ae30a7a1195db8b9db6cb7d.jpg)
Los Angeles-based Bradlei Smith was selected for this year’s award.
![Peter Smith is an industry consultant, speaker, sales trainer, and author. He can be reached via email at TheRetailSmiths@gmail.com. National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/bec7295a7f478778b1c196e6d81e7cd9.jpg)
In his latest column, Smith shares multiple reasons why people who look at the glass as being hall full often make better salespeople.
![De Beers Group mined 6.4 million carats of diamonds in the second quarter of 2024, down from 7.6 million in the same period last year. (©De Beers Group/Photo credit: Ben Perry @ Armoury Films) De Beers rough diamond display](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/80cd02b1c8384f4b2efda0bcdf6a75e1.jpg)
The company also reported the $150 million sale of an iron ore royalty right, part of its ongoing effort to divest “non-core” assets.
![In honor of its summer bridal event, Long’s Jewelers is partnering with Wequassett Resort and Golf Club on Cape Cod in Massachusetts, and jewelry brand JB Star on a vacation giveaway. Long’s Jewelers giveaway promo](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/4e7a90944c4e8875a4f3818dbe26b28b.jpg)
The giveaway is part of the New England jeweler’s summer bridal event.
![L.A.-based flower designer, Sophia Moreno-Bunge models Guzema’s “Hidden Beauty” collection in front of a garden in Rustic Canyon in Santa Monica, California. Sophia Moreno-Bunge of Isa Isa modeling Guzema’s Hidden Beauty collection](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/6f3822623eb7fd2f6468f82825194cb1.jpg)
The ad features three celebrity florists creating floral sculptures while wearing jewelry by Guzema.
![The Entrepreneurship Grants program supports winners with financial aid to scale their businesses and increase their societal impact, said Diamonds Do Good. Pictured here are three of the 13 winners, top right is Tresia Shituula, and bottom row left to right, are Monkgogi Moshaga and Mohamed Samu. Tresia Shituula, Monkgogi Moshaga, Mohamed Samu](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/a7c9b87301b76a9446f6522747ce5b95.jpg)
The grant provided a total of $100,000 to support 13 entrepreneurs from diamond communities in Africa and India.
![Ghazi Osta, better known as Gus, was the owner and president of Volusia Gold & Diamond, a store he and his wife, Leigh Osta, opened in 1986. He was shot and killed inside the store Friday afternoon after a brief argument with a regular customer. (Photo courtesy of Volusia Gold & Diamond Facebook page) Ghazi “Gus” Michel Osta](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/c8c1fa3df746cbd364915a98dcac9d21.jpg)
Ghazi Michel Osta, or “Gus,” was killed Friday by an 83-year-old man said to be a frequent customer at his store, Volusia Gold & Diamond.
![Elyssa Jenkins-Pérez (left) is the Responsible Jewellery Council’s new head of North American development, and Effie Marinos is its new specialist advisor for technical standards. Elyssa Jenkins-Perez and Effie Marinos](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/94332af0c7a776e7a8c36fabf76baa5f.jpg)
The organization also announced Effie Marinos as its new specialist advisor for technical standards, as well as four other appointments.
![Karen Rentmeesters, who joined the Antwerp World Diamond Centre in 2010, will take on the role of CEO. Karen Rentmeesters](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/3256fcc71cd43a399055c61f68486269.jpg)
Rentmeesters has served as interim CEO since April following former CEO Ari Epstein’s resignation.
![Longtime Washington, D.C., jeweler Brian Mann (right) with his wife Jessie Mann, an artist who custom-paints porcelain Limoges Boxes, at a 2016 Jewelers of America member event. Mann, the longtime co-owner of David Mann Jewelers, died June 21 at age 70. Brian and Jessie Mann](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/be4debc6e0b3198943a66ef0e2197c2c.jpg)
Mann, whose family’s jewelry store was located inside the Pentagon, is remembered for being a thoughtful champion of the industry.
![The 1916 Company recently opened a new Tudor boutique in Denver’s Cherry Creek Shopping Center. Tudor store in Denver](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/9f8600ea53ed731963331ebd28a10d16.jpg)
The 500-square-foot boutique is located in Denver’s Cherry Creek Shopping Center.
![This necklace from Messika’s “So Move Max” set is made of yellow gold with 19.18-carats of brilliant-cut diamonds and designed with circle motifs that move within the links (price upon request). Messika’s So Move Max Necklace](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/14c78af4a4e8c6b996a81bbb5a5bc69f.jpg)
Dance all night long with the “So Move Max” set’s necklace.
![On Sept. 1, Julien Tornare (left), current CEO of TAG Heuer, will become CEO of Hublot. Antoine Pin, now the general manager of Bulgari’s watch business, will take over Tornare’s role as CEO of TAG Heuer. (Images courtesy of LinkedIn) Julien Tornare and Antoine Pin](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/b24627b34ece895ddd254bae22751fb8.jpg)
Luxury giant LVMH is reshuffling the leadership in its watches division.
![A rendering of a billboard from Etsy’s new campaign. The campaign is designed to highlight the platform’s creators and how their products are made. Etsy billboard rendering in NYC](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/9a94f394f326b90dc1c9da6a711c5e09.jpg)
Sellers and shoppers have spoken out against a rise in mass-produced merchandise on the platform meant to highlight handmade goods.