EditorsSep 17, 2024
8 Award-Winning Looks from the EmmysAssociate Editor Natalie Francisco highlights the best jewelry looks from the 76th Primetime Emmy Awards.
TrendsMar 31, 2016
The History Behind … The Choker
Long before they encircled the necks of goth girls in the 1990s or were popularized by a princess in the late 1800s, chokers were donned by women in ancient civilizations to protect their throats.
Fine pearl and diamond chokers, like this Edwardian era one owned by William Noble Rare Jewels in Dallas, were popularized in the late 19th century by Alexandra of Denmark during her time as part of the British nobility.
New York--Choker necklaces have been falling in out and fashion for thousands of years, literally.
Long before they encircled the necks of goth girls in the 1990s or were made popular by the Princess of Wales in the late 1800s, chokers were donned by women in ancient civilizations, worn to protect what even back then they understood to be a very important part of the body, the neck.
They are a style that cuts across many cultures--African, Indian and Western among them--and class lines.
With chokers on the rise once again, Yvonne Markowitz, the Rita J. Kaplan and Susan B. Kaplan Curator Emerita of Jewelry Museum of Fine Arts (MFA), Boston, recently took the time to talk with National Jeweler about the history behind this tight-to-the-neck piece in the fine jewelry world.
Who were the first people to wear chokers? The history of the choker dates back thousands of years, to the world’s earliest civilizations, the Sumer empire in Mesopotamia and Ancient Egypt.
Markowitz said women in both these ancient worlds wore chokers, often pairing them with other necklaces, for the same reason they wore all jewelry--to protect them and give them power.
“A lot of ancient jewelry,” she observed, “is protective and amuletic.”
They put jewelry on parts of the body they felt needed protection--the throat, head, arms and ankles--and believed it infused them with special powers. This was especially true of gold jewelry, which ancient peoples associated with the sun, and lapis, which people in Egypt connected with the life-giving powers of the Nile River.
Markowitz said that women in Egypt also donned chokers comprised of four to six stands of beads held together by a vertical, zig-zagged shaped spacers. This Ancient Egyptian choker in the MFA’s collection is made of gold, with black and green beads and the wavy spacers.
When, after that, were choker necklaces really “in” again? In Western culture, high jewelry chokers are visible here and again throughout history, including during the Renaissance, with portraits from that time showing necklaces being worn high on the throat.
“It was a style that had fleeting moments,” Markowitz said, “and I guess the next big moment was at the end of the 19th century.”
As happens so often in fashion and jewelry, the affinity of a very public figure aided the choker’s reemergence.
Alexandra of Denmark (1844-1925) was on the British throne as the wife of King Edward VII from 1901 to 1910 and, before that, spent some 38 years as the Princess of Wales.
During her reigns, she became an influential figure in fashion and popularized one of her favorite pieces of jewelry, the choker necklace.
Long before they encircled the necks of goth girls in the 1990s or were made popular by the Princess of Wales in the late 1800s, chokers were donned by women in ancient civilizations, worn to protect what even back then they understood to be a very important part of the body, the neck.
They are a style that cuts across many cultures--African, Indian and Western among them--and class lines.
With chokers on the rise once again, Yvonne Markowitz, the Rita J. Kaplan and Susan B. Kaplan Curator Emerita of Jewelry Museum of Fine Arts (MFA), Boston, recently took the time to talk with National Jeweler about the history behind this tight-to-the-neck piece in the fine jewelry world.
Who were the first people to wear chokers? The history of the choker dates back thousands of years, to the world’s earliest civilizations, the Sumer empire in Mesopotamia and Ancient Egypt.
Markowitz said women in both these ancient worlds wore chokers, often pairing them with other necklaces, for the same reason they wore all jewelry--to protect them and give them power.
“A lot of ancient jewelry,” she observed, “is protective and amuletic.”
They put jewelry on parts of the body they felt needed protection--the throat, head, arms and ankles--and believed it infused them with special powers. This was especially true of gold jewelry, which ancient peoples associated with the sun, and lapis, which people in Egypt connected with the life-giving powers of the Nile River.
Markowitz said that women in Egypt also donned chokers comprised of four to six stands of beads held together by a vertical, zig-zagged shaped spacers. This Ancient Egyptian choker in the MFA’s collection is made of gold, with black and green beads and the wavy spacers.
When, after that, were choker necklaces really “in” again? In Western culture, high jewelry chokers are visible here and again throughout history, including during the Renaissance, with portraits from that time showing necklaces being worn high on the throat.
“It was a style that had fleeting moments,” Markowitz said, “and I guess the next big moment was at the end of the 19th century.”
As happens so often in fashion and jewelry, the affinity of a very public figure aided the choker’s reemergence.
Alexandra of Denmark (1844-1925) was on the British throne as the wife of King Edward VII from 1901 to 1910 and, before that, spent some 38 years as the Princess of Wales.
During her reigns, she became an influential figure in fashion and popularized one of her favorite pieces of jewelry, the choker necklace.
The tale that’s been told through the years is that Alexandra wore chokers to hide a childhood scar on her neck, although Markowitz noted that the story of the Queen consort’s scar has never been confirmed.
If it is true, though, Alexandra would not have been the only woman of her time to use her jewelry to hide an imperfection.
Included in the collection of the Victoria & Albert museum in London is a Kropfkette (goiter chain) made in Austria sometime between 1840 and 1870.
Kropfkettes were chokers consisting of multiple rows of chains with a large clasp at the front. Women in south Germany and Austria wore them to hide the lumps on their necks caused by goiter, a disease caused by iodine deficiency common among those who lived high in the Alps.
These chokers were not quite as fantastic as those donned by Alexandra, though; they were silver and often set with garnets.
Markowitz said chokers continued to be popular through the Art Nouveau period--René Lalique made some of the most beautiful ones ever designed, she said--and into the 1920s, becoming known as “dog collars” along the way. (She said it was Sir Charles Leonard Woolley who gave them this name following his excavations of the Royal Cemetery at Ur in what was once Mesopotamia.)
In America, the Astors wore long pearl necklaces with several strands of the pearls wrapped around their neck, while others donned just a simple black ribbon.
Then, as the Art Deco era faded in the 1930s, “(Chokers) went out, in a major way,” she said.
When did they become popular again? According to Markowitz, they didn’t really.
While there have been occasional resurgences in popular culture--the beaded chokers of the hippie era and the plastic tattoo chokers of the 1990s are two examples that come to mind--chokers crafted of fine materials never regained the same popularity they once had.
“It’s not the most comfortable piece of jewelry to wear, and it also has to be well fitted unless it’s something with a string or fabric where you can adjust it to your neck,” Markowitz observed.
Today, chokers are making their rounds again along with their seemingly more comfortable and easier- to-fit cousin, the collar, with both fine and fashion pieces finding their way into stores.
RELATED CONTENT: Amanda’s Style File: Collar Craze
In March, Vogue magazine published an article online telling readers how to “rock” a choker like the singer Rihanna and included a gallery of 10 modern-day examples, ranging in price from $9 to $1,375.
How can a jeweler add chokers to their inventory? Markowitz said jewelers looking to carry antique or estate chokers should go through a reputable estate jewelry dealer.
Before doing so, however, they should make sure there is demand among their customers for this very specific style of necklace, whether it’s vintage or modern.
“No retailer wants inventory that they can’t move. If they find that something is hot, then I’ll think they’ll want to stock it,” she said.
While there have been occasional resurgences in popular culture--the beaded chokers of the hippie era and the plastic tattoo chokers of the 1990s are two examples that come to mind--chokers crafted of fine materials never regained the same popularity they once had.
“It’s not the most comfortable piece of jewelry to wear, and it also has to be well fitted unless it’s something with a string or fabric where you can adjust it to your neck,” Markowitz observed.
Today, chokers are making their rounds again along with their seemingly more comfortable and easier- to-fit cousin, the collar, with both fine and fashion pieces finding their way into stores.
RELATED CONTENT: Amanda’s Style File: Collar Craze
In March, Vogue magazine published an article online telling readers how to “rock” a choker like the singer Rihanna and included a gallery of 10 modern-day examples, ranging in price from $9 to $1,375.
How can a jeweler add chokers to their inventory? Markowitz said jewelers looking to carry antique or estate chokers should go through a reputable estate jewelry dealer.
Before doing so, however, they should make sure there is demand among their customers for this very specific style of necklace, whether it’s vintage or modern.
“No retailer wants inventory that they can’t move. If they find that something is hot, then I’ll think they’ll want to stock it,” she said.
More on Trends
The Latest
GradingSep 17, 2024
GIA To Include Traceability Info on Some Cultured Pearl ReportsThe lab will include reference numbers on reports for cultured pearls that contain bead nuclei embedded with an RFID tag.
ColumnistsSep 17, 2024
The PR Adviser: The Case for Switching to Shopify Lilian Raji offers advice to a reader frustrated with the current state of their company’s website.
Brought to you by
How to Increase Instagram Followers Naturally in 2024Growing your Instagram following organically is more important than ever in today's technological environment.
EditorsSep 17, 2024
Q&A: Issa Rae on Her New Jewelry Collection With CastThe actress shared her inspiration for the collection, insight into her personal style, and which jewels President Barbie would wear.
Weekly QuizSep 12, 2024
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SourcingSep 16, 2024
1,094-Carat Diamond Recovered in Botswana Just Weeks After Historic Find The giant gem originated from Karowe, the same mine that yielded a 2,492-carat rough diamond in late August.
CrimeSep 16, 2024
New Jersey Jeweler Pleads Guilty To Evading CustomsMonishkumar Kirankumar Doshi Shah admitted to dodging customs duties on more than $13.5 million of jewelry imported into the U.S.
Brought to you by
Watch: Natural Diamonds: A Great (but Often Untold) Geology StorySupplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA.
MajorsSep 16, 2024
Boucheron Opens First US Store in New York CityThe new boutique is located on Madison Avenue.
GradingSep 16, 2024
Gübelin Opens Lab in BangkokThe company’s fourth location worldwide will focus on its AI-powered gem document, the Gem Passport.
Events & AwardsSep 16, 2024
JA Takes Its Learning Workshops to Washington D.C., New YorkIts next event will take place in D.C. on Sept. 17 and in New York City on Oct. 29.
EditorsSep 13, 2024
Taylor Swift Brings Diamonds, Edgy Jewels to her VMAs LooksThe artist opted for big yellow diamond earrings, a vintage chain, and white metals at the annual MTV awards show.
WatchesSep 13, 2024
Breitling Inks Licensing Deal with the NFL The Swiss watchmaker has created limited-edition timepieces for all 32 National Football League teams.
AuctionsSep 13, 2024
Piece of the Week: Cartier’s ‘Black Alley Cat’ BroochThis carved jasper and yellow-diamond-eyed cat brooch from 1962 is the perfect accessory for Friday the 13th.
FinancialsSep 12, 2024
Signet Jewelers’ Q2 Sales Fall 8% The jewelry giant said it expects to see an uptick in engagements in the second half of the year.
Supplier BulletinSep 12, 2024
Meet Gemology’s Next Generation Microscope: GIA® Gemolite® NXT Professional EditionSponsored by Gemological Institute of America
CollectionsSep 12, 2024
Mignon Faget Enters a New Era With Its ‘Legacy’ CollectionThe brand is celebrating its upcoming 55th anniversary with modern designs that pay tribute to its history.
SourcingSep 12, 2024
AGTA Elects Bruce Bridges as PresidentHe, and other newly elected board members, will begin their terms in February.
Events & AwardsSep 12, 2024
JCK Industry Fund Accepting 2025 Grant ApplicationsThose interested can apply online now through Nov. 15.
WatchesSep 11, 2024
These Are the Watches Women Want, Says Chrono24Its “Her-ology” report highlights trends in the women’s luxury watch market, from top brands to movement preferences.
IndependentsSep 11, 2024
Take a Sip of Marrow Fine x Adalina’s $13K MartiniThe smoked heirloom tomato mezcal martini, only available at Adalina in Chicago, is served with a 9-carat diamond tennis necklace.
Events & AwardsSep 11, 2024
Lab-Grown, Natural Diamonds to Be Focus of AGS Confluence Scheduled for Sept. 25, the online-only event will be open to non-AGS members this year, for a fee.
MajorsSep 11, 2024
Brilliant Earth Expands International E-CommerceCustomers in more than 150 countries can now shop at the jewelry retailer’s online store.
Policies & IssuesSep 11, 2024
Gems Keep Giving Reorganizes, Taps Hayley Henning as Board ChairThe organization, which was started by the International Colored Gemstone Association, is now a 501(c)(3).
IndependentsSep 10, 2024
Industry Technology Visionary Jeff High Dies at 60The Gemvision founder is remembered as a passionate mentor with a deep love for God.
CollectionsSep 10, 2024
Foundrae’s Latest Collection Harnesses the Glow of the Golden HourThe “Golden Hour” collection was designed to “inspire and encourage reflection,” said the brand.
MajorsSep 10, 2024
Ludacris, Jessica Alba Star in New Movado CampaignMovado has named five new brand ambassadors, featuring them in its new “When I Move You Move” campaign.
