ColumnistsJul 07, 2026
Peter Smith: Diamond Branding and the Origin ParadoxA podcast prompted Smith to share his views on where origin fits into the natural diamond story and the viability of branded diamonds.
TrendsMar 31, 2016
The History Behind … The Choker
Long before they encircled the necks of goth girls in the 1990s or were popularized by a princess in the late 1800s, chokers were donned by women in ancient civilizations to protect their throats.
Fine pearl and diamond chokers, like this Edwardian era one owned by William Noble Rare Jewels in Dallas, were popularized in the late 19th century by Alexandra of Denmark during her time as part of the British nobility.
New York--Choker necklaces have been falling in out and fashion for thousands of years, literally.
Long before they encircled the necks of goth girls in the 1990s or were made popular by the Princess of Wales in the late 1800s, chokers were donned by women in ancient civilizations, worn to protect what even back then they understood to be a very important part of the body, the neck.
They are a style that cuts across many cultures--African, Indian and Western among them--and class lines.
With chokers on the rise once again, Yvonne Markowitz, the Rita J. Kaplan and Susan B. Kaplan Curator Emerita of Jewelry Museum of Fine Arts (MFA), Boston, recently took the time to talk with National Jeweler about the history behind this tight-to-the-neck piece in the fine jewelry world.
Who were the first people to wear chokers? The history of the choker dates back thousands of years, to the world’s earliest civilizations, the Sumer empire in Mesopotamia and Ancient Egypt.
Markowitz said women in both these ancient worlds wore chokers, often pairing them with other necklaces, for the same reason they wore all jewelry--to protect them and give them power.
“A lot of ancient jewelry,” she observed, “is protective and amuletic.”
They put jewelry on parts of the body they felt needed protection--the throat, head, arms and ankles--and believed it infused them with special powers. This was especially true of gold jewelry, which ancient peoples associated with the sun, and lapis, which people in Egypt connected with the life-giving powers of the Nile River.
Markowitz said that women in Egypt also donned chokers comprised of four to six stands of beads held together by a vertical, zig-zagged shaped spacers. This Ancient Egyptian choker in the MFA’s collection is made of gold, with black and green beads and the wavy spacers.
When, after that, were choker necklaces really “in” again? In Western culture, high jewelry chokers are visible here and again throughout history, including during the Renaissance, with portraits from that time showing necklaces being worn high on the throat.
“It was a style that had fleeting moments,” Markowitz said, “and I guess the next big moment was at the end of the 19th century.”
As happens so often in fashion and jewelry, the affinity of a very public figure aided the choker’s reemergence.
Alexandra of Denmark (1844-1925) was on the British throne as the wife of King Edward VII from 1901 to 1910 and, before that, spent some 38 years as the Princess of Wales.
During her reigns, she became an influential figure in fashion and popularized one of her favorite pieces of jewelry, the choker necklace.
Long before they encircled the necks of goth girls in the 1990s or were made popular by the Princess of Wales in the late 1800s, chokers were donned by women in ancient civilizations, worn to protect what even back then they understood to be a very important part of the body, the neck.
They are a style that cuts across many cultures--African, Indian and Western among them--and class lines.
With chokers on the rise once again, Yvonne Markowitz, the Rita J. Kaplan and Susan B. Kaplan Curator Emerita of Jewelry Museum of Fine Arts (MFA), Boston, recently took the time to talk with National Jeweler about the history behind this tight-to-the-neck piece in the fine jewelry world.
Who were the first people to wear chokers? The history of the choker dates back thousands of years, to the world’s earliest civilizations, the Sumer empire in Mesopotamia and Ancient Egypt.
Markowitz said women in both these ancient worlds wore chokers, often pairing them with other necklaces, for the same reason they wore all jewelry--to protect them and give them power.
“A lot of ancient jewelry,” she observed, “is protective and amuletic.”
They put jewelry on parts of the body they felt needed protection--the throat, head, arms and ankles--and believed it infused them with special powers. This was especially true of gold jewelry, which ancient peoples associated with the sun, and lapis, which people in Egypt connected with the life-giving powers of the Nile River.
Markowitz said that women in Egypt also donned chokers comprised of four to six stands of beads held together by a vertical, zig-zagged shaped spacers. This Ancient Egyptian choker in the MFA’s collection is made of gold, with black and green beads and the wavy spacers.
When, after that, were choker necklaces really “in” again? In Western culture, high jewelry chokers are visible here and again throughout history, including during the Renaissance, with portraits from that time showing necklaces being worn high on the throat.
“It was a style that had fleeting moments,” Markowitz said, “and I guess the next big moment was at the end of the 19th century.”
As happens so often in fashion and jewelry, the affinity of a very public figure aided the choker’s reemergence.
Alexandra of Denmark (1844-1925) was on the British throne as the wife of King Edward VII from 1901 to 1910 and, before that, spent some 38 years as the Princess of Wales.
During her reigns, she became an influential figure in fashion and popularized one of her favorite pieces of jewelry, the choker necklace.
The tale that’s been told through the years is that Alexandra wore chokers to hide a childhood scar on her neck, although Markowitz noted that the story of the Queen consort’s scar has never been confirmed.
If it is true, though, Alexandra would not have been the only woman of her time to use her jewelry to hide an imperfection.
Included in the collection of the Victoria & Albert museum in London is a Kropfkette (goiter chain) made in Austria sometime between 1840 and 1870.
Kropfkettes were chokers consisting of multiple rows of chains with a large clasp at the front. Women in south Germany and Austria wore them to hide the lumps on their necks caused by goiter, a disease caused by iodine deficiency common among those who lived high in the Alps.
These chokers were not quite as fantastic as those donned by Alexandra, though; they were silver and often set with garnets.
Markowitz said chokers continued to be popular through the Art Nouveau period--René Lalique made some of the most beautiful ones ever designed, she said--and into the 1920s, becoming known as “dog collars” along the way. (She said it was Sir Charles Leonard Woolley who gave them this name following his excavations of the Royal Cemetery at Ur in what was once Mesopotamia.)
In America, the Astors wore long pearl necklaces with several strands of the pearls wrapped around their neck, while others donned just a simple black ribbon.
Then, as the Art Deco era faded in the 1930s, “(Chokers) went out, in a major way,” she said.
When did they become popular again? According to Markowitz, they didn’t really.
While there have been occasional resurgences in popular culture--the beaded chokers of the hippie era and the plastic tattoo chokers of the 1990s are two examples that come to mind--chokers crafted of fine materials never regained the same popularity they once had.
“It’s not the most comfortable piece of jewelry to wear, and it also has to be well fitted unless it’s something with a string or fabric where you can adjust it to your neck,” Markowitz observed.
Today, chokers are making their rounds again along with their seemingly more comfortable and easier- to-fit cousin, the collar, with both fine and fashion pieces finding their way into stores.
RELATED CONTENT: Amanda’s Style File: Collar Craze
In March, Vogue magazine published an article online telling readers how to “rock” a choker like the singer Rihanna and included a gallery of 10 modern-day examples, ranging in price from $9 to $1,375.
How can a jeweler add chokers to their inventory? Markowitz said jewelers looking to carry antique or estate chokers should go through a reputable estate jewelry dealer.
Before doing so, however, they should make sure there is demand among their customers for this very specific style of necklace, whether it’s vintage or modern.
“No retailer wants inventory that they can’t move. If they find that something is hot, then I’ll think they’ll want to stock it,” she said.
While there have been occasional resurgences in popular culture--the beaded chokers of the hippie era and the plastic tattoo chokers of the 1990s are two examples that come to mind--chokers crafted of fine materials never regained the same popularity they once had.
“It’s not the most comfortable piece of jewelry to wear, and it also has to be well fitted unless it’s something with a string or fabric where you can adjust it to your neck,” Markowitz observed.
Today, chokers are making their rounds again along with their seemingly more comfortable and easier- to-fit cousin, the collar, with both fine and fashion pieces finding their way into stores.
RELATED CONTENT: Amanda’s Style File: Collar Craze
In March, Vogue magazine published an article online telling readers how to “rock” a choker like the singer Rihanna and included a gallery of 10 modern-day examples, ranging in price from $9 to $1,375.
How can a jeweler add chokers to their inventory? Markowitz said jewelers looking to carry antique or estate chokers should go through a reputable estate jewelry dealer.
Before doing so, however, they should make sure there is demand among their customers for this very specific style of necklace, whether it’s vintage or modern.
“No retailer wants inventory that they can’t move. If they find that something is hot, then I’ll think they’ll want to stock it,” she said.
More on Trends
The Latest
Events & AwardsJul 07, 2026
JA Announces 2026 Impact Initiative RecipientsThe association selected eight recipients for the funding program, which is in its second year.
CrimeJul 07, 2026
Thieves Steal Millions in Jewels From France’s Musée LaliqueAround 20 pieces of jewelry were stolen from the museum dedicated to French jeweler and glassmaker René Lalique.
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center StageColored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.
CollectionsJul 07, 2026
Robinson Pelham Is Partying Like It’s 1996The “Summer of ’96” campaign and collection celebrate the year the brand was founded for its 30th anniversary.
Weekly QuizJul 01, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SourcingJul 06, 2026
Gemfields CEO Sean Gilbertson Steps DownAfter eight years, Gilbertson is leaving his post at the mining company, which is currently facing a slew of operational challenges.
IndependentsJul 06, 2026
Bachendorf’s To Open Fifth Store In DallasThe new location is set to open this winter, featuring the retailer’s first rotating jewelry designer residency.
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce SolutionsDCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.
MajorsJul 06, 2026
Graff Names BTS Star Jung Kook as New AmbassadorThe pop artist appears in the latest campaign for the “Laurence Graff Signature” collection.
CollectionsJul 06, 2026
Pandora’s New Baroque Pearl Collection Is a Whimsical ‘Wonder’One-of-a-kind pearls take the shape of ice cream cones, frogs, submarines, and other imaginative charms.
SourcingJul 02, 2026
London Diamond Bourse Elects First Female PresidentCharlotte Rose said her election is “a sign that this is an industry capable of change.”
Supplier BulletinJul 02, 2026
Elevating Retail Showcases with Today's Necklace & Bracelet TrendsSponsored by Rio Grande Jewelry Supply
IndependentsJul 02, 2026
D. Geller & Son Partners with KSU Art Students on Store MuralThe artwork celebrates the Atlanta jeweler’s legacy and symbolizes its commitment to supporting local artists and its community.
Events & AwardsJul 02, 2026
Stratus Estate Buyers Offers Jewelers Turnkey Buying EventsIts team can evaluate jewelry and watches, as well as luxury handbags, artwork, and collectibles.
SurveysJul 01, 2026
Consumer Confidence Ticks Up in JuneFalling oil prices were a factor in the slight month-over-month improvement.
CollectionsJul 01, 2026
Rio Grande Launches First Finished Bridal CollectionThe new offering comprises more than 120 bridal and engagement ring styles with natural and lab-grown diamonds.
WatchesJul 01, 2026
Rolex Unveils Clock at Rockefeller CenterThe clock is part of the celebration for the soon-to-open Rolex headquarters on New York City’s Fifth Avenue.
IndependentsJul 01, 2026
Kristen Cannon of Valobra Master Jewelers Dies at 49The public relations professional is remembered for her benevolent generosity and unwavering commitment to those around her.
WatchesJun 30, 2026
Pokémon Fans Will Want to Catch This New G-Shock WatchThe new watch commemorates Pokémon’s 30th anniversary.
MajorsJun 30, 2026
Saks Global Emerges From Bankruptcy With New NameThe luxury retailer is now called Exemplar Luxury Group.
CollectionsJun 30, 2026
Jade Ruzzo’s New Collection Embodies the Art of Being a LadyThe “Lady” collection is a new take on old beauty standards with gemstone-adorned hair pins and combs, a compact mirror necklace, and more.
SourcingJun 30, 2026
Blue Nile Introduces Montana Sapphire CollectionThe new line is included in the e-tailer’s curation of jewelry celebrating America’s 250th anniversary.
GradingJun 30, 2026
AGS Opens 2026 Recertification ExamAll active members who earned their credential or designation before Dec. 1, 2025, are required to recertify.
CollectionsJun 29, 2026
Briony Raymond’s New Collection Is a ‘Carousel’ of Hard StonesThe new jewelry collection uses a colorful palette of onyx, malachite, tiger’s eye, mother-of-pearl, lapis, turquoise, and coral.
IndependentsJun 29, 2026
Look Inside Lee Michaels’ Revamped Mississippi FlagshipLee Michaels Fine Jewelry is celebrating 30 years in the Ridgeland, Mississippi community.
GradingJun 29, 2026
National Rarities Announces New Gemology ManagerSean Milliner has joined the company.
GradingJun 29, 2026
GIA to Open New London CampusClasses will begin in August at GIA’s new Canary Wharf location.
