Editors

Notes on a Plenary

EditorsDec 20, 2017

Notes on a Plenary

Our editor-in-chief recaps the recent Kimberley Process meeting and looks at where the process goes from here.

2017_KP-logo.jpg

The biggest decision that came out of the Kimberley Process’s biggest meeting of the year was this: All participants voted to form an Ad Hoc Committee on Review and Reform, which will begin looking at ways to evolve the process next year.

The committee is chaired by India, with Angola as vice chair, and, according to a copy of the administrative decision on its creation, will present its conclusions and any draft decisions at next year’s plenary.

The biggest news was this: Impact, the NGO formerly known as PAC, decided to leave the process, citing a lack of progress on pressing issues--specifically, meaningful reform in a process it says is becoming “irrelevant”--and an increasingly hostile environment for members of the KP’s Civil Society Coalition.

It is the second NGO to exit the process, following the 2011 departure of Global Witness.

Impact’s decision to leave the process did not entirely shock me (and it didn’t shock many who are directly involved with the KP either, I’m told); it has been at least 12 months in the making.

Last year, Impact, along with the other 10 members of the Civil Society Coalition, boycotted the process over their objections to the chairmanship of the United Arab Emirates.

This year, Impact returned but made it clear what they wanted: reform in a reform year. (The KP is set up so that it, in theory, it overhauls itself every five years; the last reform cycle was from 2011 to 2013.)

Impact Executive Director Joanne Lebert told me in a post-plenary interview that they wanted to see the KP change the definition of what constitutes a “conflict” diamond to include diamonds tied to abuses by governments and/or security firms, not just those used by rebel groups to overthrow governments.

There also needs to be a strengthening of the KP’s internal controls, and more timely completion and release of reports from review missions, which are currently delayed by as much as two to three years, she said.

What they got was the formation of “another working group,” she said, meaning the aforementioned Ad Hoc Committee on Review and Reform.

During closing remarks Dec. 14 at the plenary in Brisbane, Lebert told KP members that her organization, in simplest terms, was done with the Kimberley Process, though it will remain engaged on the issues facing diamond-producing countries.

“They’re just making themselves irrelevant,” she said in the interview. “(The KP) keeps saying, ‘we’ve eliminated

conflict diamonds’ when, in fact, their definition is obsolete.”

Lebert and Impact are not alone in their view that the KP needs to change.

Following Martin Rapaport’s controversial proclamation earlier this year that the process had become “bullshit,” JCK published two editorials, one from Brad Brooks-Rubin and one from Ian Smillie, in which the authors called for reform.

And the fact that all KP member nations agreed to at least put together a reform committee tells us that even the process itself has come around to the fact that it’s due for a major overhaul.

But the question is: Will the KP be able to get everybody on the same page when it comes to reform and, if so, how many years will it take?

For those who are not aware, the KP operates under a consensus decision-making model. This dictates that all member countries have to agree to pass anything, which, on the flip side, means it takes only one country’s disapproval to block a proposal.

In his editorial in JCK, Smillie, a former research coordinator who worked on conflict diamond issues with PAC (now Impact) and is now president of the Canadian Association for the Study of International Development, talked about the difficulty of getting reform done under the consensus model, which he described as “unworkable.” He wrote that there will not be any “serious evolution” for the KP until that changes.

Lebert described the model to me as “instrumental in blocking any kind of meaningful reform,” while one individual who is a major player in the diamond industry called it “a recipe for not getting anything done.”

But a couple of other individuals with whom I spoke on this issue pointed out that the KP is not the only international mechanism that works this way.

Robert Owen-Jones, who represented chair nation Australia in the process this year, told me in an email that consensus is the “accepted model” in intergovernmental arrangements, and said he couldn’t imagine another system for the KP given that implementation rests on national legislation.

“Consensus does not mean you have to agree with the result in the final plenary, just not object,” he wrote. “Negotiators often say that the best result is where everyone is equally unhappy.”

James Evans Lombe, who attended the KP as the CEO of the U.S. Jewelry Council and a member of the World Diamond Council (WDC) delegation, also pointed out that the KP is not alone in its consensus approach.

He pointed to the World Trade Organization (WTO), the intergovernmental organization that regulates trade, as another example of a body that functions this way.

“It is a failing, but it is also a strength,” he said of the consensus model. “When something is agreed, no one can backtrack … it just means the KP can only go as fast as the slowest runner.

“Our issue, as an industry, is that consumers are moving far faster than governments. Luckily, most governments are now beginning to realize that.”

After touching base with Owen-Jones and Lombe, I circled back around to Smillie to get his thoughts on their viewpoints.

In addition to his role with the Canadian Association, Smillie is chair of the Diamond Development Initiative and attended the plenary to talk about the issues facing the artisanal mining sector.

He said while he understands the need for consensus on larger issues that involve money or governmental changes, he doesn’t understand why the process needs 100 percent agreement to make changes to improve its basic functions.

The monitoring system, for example, is weak and needs to be made more effective. He also expressed the same frustration that Lebert did over the long delays in submission of reports. Those need to be done in three months rather than two years, he said.

“What they (the KP participants) all should understand and appreciate is all the countries that are members benefit in one way or another from the diamond industry,” Smillie said. “It really is an industry worth protecting, but the Kimberley Process is not doing that. It’s failing.”

A few other notes from the plenary:
* The permanent secretariat, which the UAE tried to take credit for last year, still hasn’t been officially voted through. Yes, there is now consensus that the process needs one, but thorny issues remain, including who will pay for it and where it will be based. I am told that the UAE has said it will fund the permanent secretariat but under the condition that it be headquartered there, while the African nations would like to see it in Africa and the WDC is pushing for a neutral location. In a similar vein, the WDC is totally supportive of a DDI proposal that the KP has a conflict of interest rule.

The reform committee has the resolution of these issues surrounding the permanent secretariat on its to-do list for 2018.

* As agreed upon in Dubai last year, the European Union will take over as chair of the KP in 2018 with India serving as vice chair. (The countries served together as co-vice chairs this year.)

* The KP intersessional is set to take place in Antwerp while the scheduled location for the plenary is Brussels.
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Jacquie Aiche Alien Heart Eye Inlay Necklace, Cicada Dragonfly Brooch, Harkness After the Rain Earrings
TrendsDec 11, 2025
Pinterest 2026 Trend Report: Brooches, Bold Gold, Cool Blue

In its annual report, Pinterest noted an increase in searches for brooches, heirloom jewelry, and ‘80s luxury.

GIA new colored stone report
GradingDec 11, 2025
GIA to Offer Origin Determination for 3 More Gemstones

Starting Jan. 1, customers can request the service for opal, peridot, and demantoid garnet.

Day’s Jewelers Salem New Hampshire store exterior
IndependentsDec 11, 2025
Look Inside Day’s Jewelers’ Ninth Store

The 111-year-old retailer celebrated the opening of its new location in Salem, New Hampshire, which is its third store in the state.

Recipients Collage 2025 - NJ (1872 x 1050 px) (1872 x 1052 px).png
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow Today

How Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.

Americas Gold Chain Catalog Volume 3
MajorsDec 11, 2025
Americas Gold Releases New Gold Chain Catalog

The new catalog features its most popular chains as well as new styles.

Weekly QuizDec 11, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
F.P. Journe FFC prototype
AuctionsDec 10, 2025
Francis Ford Coppola’s Watch Sells for $10.8M

The filmmaker’s personal F.P. Journe “FFC” prototype was the star of Phillips’ recent record-setting watch auction in New York.

Rolex Miami store
WatchesDec 10, 2025
There’s A New Rolex Boutique in Miami

The new location in the Design District pays homage to Miami’s Art Deco heritage and its connection to the ocean.

roseco-catalog.png
Brought to you by
Roseco Releases New Full-Line Catalog

Roseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.

Stock image of consumers shopping in the winter
SurveysDec 10, 2025
Consumer Confidence Drops in November

Inflations, tariffs, and politics—including the government shutdown—were among consumers’ top concerns last month.

National Association of Jewelry Appraisers logo
SourcingDec 10, 2025
NAJA Announces Details for 2026 ‘Ace It’ Winter Conference

“Longtime favorite” presenters, as well as first-time speakers, will lead talks and workshops at the annual event in Tucson next year.

Silas Smith and his Responsible Design Challenge Winning Pendant
Events & AwardsDec 10, 2025
MJSA Names 2025 Responsible Design Challenge Winner

Silas Smith of Meridian Metalworks won the challenge with his pendant that blends Australian and American landscapes.

Sothebys orangy pink The Desert Rose diamond
AuctionsDec 09, 2025
‘Desert Rose’ Diamond Sells for $8.8M in Abu Dhabi

The sale of the 31.68-carat, sunset-hued stone was part of Sotheby’s first series of events and auctions in Abu Dhabi.

National Jeweler columnist and Smart Age Solutions CEO Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsDec 09, 2025
Holiday Sales Happen in December, Most Decisions Don’t

Most customers who walk into your store this month have made up their minds. Your job is to validate their choice, Emmanuel Raheb writes.

Guzema Once Upon a Time Collection Campaign
TrendsDec 09, 2025
‘Once Upon a Time,’ Guzema Debuted Its Holiday Collection

The collection features characters and motifs from Ukrainian folklore, including an enchanted mirror and a magic egg.

Gemvision by Stuller MatrixGold 3.11
TechnologyDec 09, 2025
Gemvision Releases Updated MatrixGold

MatrixGold 3.11, the newest version of the jewelry design program, offers more flexibility, precision, and creative control.

Sign at the JA New York jewelry trade show
Events & AwardsDec 09, 2025
MJSA Showcase Pavilion Returning to JA New York

The pavilion will be part of the 2026 JA New York Spring show, scheduled for March 15 to 17.

Juell Kadet, former executive vice president of Rogers & Hollands
MajorsDec 08, 2025
Juell Kadet, a ‘Lifelong Pillar’ of Rogers & Hollands, Dies at 96

Kadet, a 1994 National Jeweler Retailer Hall of Fame inductee, helped grow the family-owned retailer in the Chicago area and beyond.

Lumia 2 smart earrings
TechnologyDec 08, 2025
You’ve Heard of Smart Watches and Rings; Meet Smart Earrings

Billed as the world’s smallest wearable, Lumia Health’s new smart earrings have a health tracker subtly embedded in the back.

Lionheart Wildflower Double Cocktail Ring
TrendsDec 08, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Celebrating December’s Birthstones

Don’t let those with December birthdays feel blue. Help them celebrate their month with blue zircon, turquoise, and tanzanite.

Robinson Pelham Tsar Star Earrings in Blaze
CollectionsDec 05, 2025
Piece of the Week: Robinson Pelham’s ‘Tsar Star’ Earrings

The new pink sapphire version of the piece dances with its wearer in the brand’s “Icons After Dark” holiday campaign.

Pantone 11-4201 Cloud Dancer
TrendsDec 05, 2025
Pantone’s Color of the Year for 2026 Is … White

A choice that’s generated a lot of commentary, Pantone says “Cloud Dancer” marks a fresh start and encourages relaxation and creativity.

Stuller holiday 2025
MajorsDec 05, 2025
Stuller Releases ‘Wrapped in Wonder’ Campaign

The manufacturer’s holiday campaign features a gift guide filled with trending designs and jewelry that can be personalized.

Fabergé x 007 Octopussy egg and pendant
CrimeDec 04, 2025
Man Arrested After Allegedly Swallowing Fabergé Egg Pendant

The man was charged with theft, accused of ingesting the necklace while in a jewelry store in Auckland, New Zealand.

Exterior of renovated and expanded J.R. Dunn Jewelers
IndependentsDec 04, 2025
Step Inside JR Dunn Jewelers’ Giant New Store

The Florida independent expanded its store from 8,000 to 14,000 square feet, fulfilling the vision of its late co-founder, Jim Dunn.

DD-Email-Image-1872x1052 (1).jpg
Supplier BulletinDec 04, 2025
Introducing Shop Natural Day: A New Movement Celebrating Natural Diamonds

Sponsored by De Beers Group

G-Shock DWN5600 Ring
WatchesDec 04, 2025
Casio Shrinks its G-Shock Watch

The classic 5600 series G-Shock has been scaled down to about a tenth of its size, becoming a fully functioning watch ring.

Accredited Gemologists Association logo
Events & AwardsDec 04, 2025
AGA Announces 2026 Tucson Speaker Lineup

The association’s annual conference and gala will take place Feb. 4, 2026, during the Tucson gem shows.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy