Editors

Notes on a Plenary

EditorsDec 20, 2017

Notes on a Plenary

Our editor-in-chief recaps the recent Kimberley Process meeting and looks at where the process goes from here.

2017_KP-logo.jpg

The biggest decision that came out of the Kimberley Process’s biggest meeting of the year was this: All participants voted to form an Ad Hoc Committee on Review and Reform, which will begin looking at ways to evolve the process next year.

The committee is chaired by India, with Angola as vice chair, and, according to a copy of the administrative decision on its creation, will present its conclusions and any draft decisions at next year’s plenary.

The biggest news was this: Impact, the NGO formerly known as PAC, decided to leave the process, citing a lack of progress on pressing issues--specifically, meaningful reform in a process it says is becoming “irrelevant”--and an increasingly hostile environment for members of the KP’s Civil Society Coalition.

It is the second NGO to exit the process, following the 2011 departure of Global Witness.

Impact’s decision to leave the process did not entirely shock me (and it didn’t shock many who are directly involved with the KP either, I’m told); it has been at least 12 months in the making.

Last year, Impact, along with the other 10 members of the Civil Society Coalition, boycotted the process over their objections to the chairmanship of the United Arab Emirates.

This year, Impact returned but made it clear what they wanted: reform in a reform year. (The KP is set up so that it, in theory, it overhauls itself every five years; the last reform cycle was from 2011 to 2013.)

Impact Executive Director Joanne Lebert told me in a post-plenary interview that they wanted to see the KP change the definition of what constitutes a “conflict” diamond to include diamonds tied to abuses by governments and/or security firms, not just those used by rebel groups to overthrow governments.

There also needs to be a strengthening of the KP’s internal controls, and more timely completion and release of reports from review missions, which are currently delayed by as much as two to three years, she said.

What they got was the formation of “another working group,” she said, meaning the aforementioned Ad Hoc Committee on Review and Reform.

During closing remarks Dec. 14 at the plenary in Brisbane, Lebert told KP members that her organization, in simplest terms, was done with the Kimberley Process, though it will remain engaged on the issues facing diamond-producing countries.

“They’re just making themselves irrelevant,” she said in the interview. “(The KP) keeps saying, ‘we’ve eliminated

conflict diamonds’ when, in fact, their definition is obsolete.”

Lebert and Impact are not alone in their view that the KP needs to change.

Following Martin Rapaport’s controversial proclamation earlier this year that the process had become “bullshit,” JCK published two editorials, one from Brad Brooks-Rubin and one from Ian Smillie, in which the authors called for reform.

And the fact that all KP member nations agreed to at least put together a reform committee tells us that even the process itself has come around to the fact that it’s due for a major overhaul.

But the question is: Will the KP be able to get everybody on the same page when it comes to reform and, if so, how many years will it take?

For those who are not aware, the KP operates under a consensus decision-making model. This dictates that all member countries have to agree to pass anything, which, on the flip side, means it takes only one country’s disapproval to block a proposal.

In his editorial in JCK, Smillie, a former research coordinator who worked on conflict diamond issues with PAC (now Impact) and is now president of the Canadian Association for the Study of International Development, talked about the difficulty of getting reform done under the consensus model, which he described as “unworkable.” He wrote that there will not be any “serious evolution” for the KP until that changes.

Lebert described the model to me as “instrumental in blocking any kind of meaningful reform,” while one individual who is a major player in the diamond industry called it “a recipe for not getting anything done.”

But a couple of other individuals with whom I spoke on this issue pointed out that the KP is not the only international mechanism that works this way.

Robert Owen-Jones, who represented chair nation Australia in the process this year, told me in an email that consensus is the “accepted model” in intergovernmental arrangements, and said he couldn’t imagine another system for the KP given that implementation rests on national legislation.

“Consensus does not mean you have to agree with the result in the final plenary, just not object,” he wrote. “Negotiators often say that the best result is where everyone is equally unhappy.”

James Evans Lombe, who attended the KP as the CEO of the U.S. Jewelry Council and a member of the World Diamond Council (WDC) delegation, also pointed out that the KP is not alone in its consensus approach.

He pointed to the World Trade Organization (WTO), the intergovernmental organization that regulates trade, as another example of a body that functions this way.

“It is a failing, but it is also a strength,” he said of the consensus model. “When something is agreed, no one can backtrack … it just means the KP can only go as fast as the slowest runner.

“Our issue, as an industry, is that consumers are moving far faster than governments. Luckily, most governments are now beginning to realize that.”

After touching base with Owen-Jones and Lombe, I circled back around to Smillie to get his thoughts on their viewpoints.

In addition to his role with the Canadian Association, Smillie is chair of the Diamond Development Initiative and attended the plenary to talk about the issues facing the artisanal mining sector.

He said while he understands the need for consensus on larger issues that involve money or governmental changes, he doesn’t understand why the process needs 100 percent agreement to make changes to improve its basic functions.

The monitoring system, for example, is weak and needs to be made more effective. He also expressed the same frustration that Lebert did over the long delays in submission of reports. Those need to be done in three months rather than two years, he said.

“What they (the KP participants) all should understand and appreciate is all the countries that are members benefit in one way or another from the diamond industry,” Smillie said. “It really is an industry worth protecting, but the Kimberley Process is not doing that. It’s failing.”

A few other notes from the plenary:
* The permanent secretariat, which the UAE tried to take credit for last year, still hasn’t been officially voted through. Yes, there is now consensus that the process needs one, but thorny issues remain, including who will pay for it and where it will be based. I am told that the UAE has said it will fund the permanent secretariat but under the condition that it be headquartered there, while the African nations would like to see it in Africa and the WDC is pushing for a neutral location. In a similar vein, the WDC is totally supportive of a DDI proposal that the KP has a conflict of interest rule.

The reform committee has the resolution of these issues surrounding the permanent secretariat on its to-do list for 2018.

* As agreed upon in Dubai last year, the European Union will take over as chair of the KP in 2018 with India serving as vice chair. (The countries served together as co-vice chairs this year.)

* The KP intersessional is set to take place in Antwerp while the scheduled location for the plenary is Brussels.
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Pair of Ippolita Lollatini earrings
MajorsDec 19, 2025
MadaLuxe Group Acquires Ippolita

The luxury goods company said founder Ippolita Rostagno will remain at the brand’s helm.

Front of Jean Schlumberger’s ‘African Cat’ brooch
AuctionsDec 19, 2025
Jean Schlumberger’s ‘African Cat’ Is Purr-Fection

Need a gift for the cat lover who has everything? Look no further than our latest Piece of the Week.

Audemars Piguet Grosse Pièce
AuctionsDec 18, 2025
Audemars Piguet Reclaims Historic Pocket Watch at Auction

It purchased the “Grosse Pièce,” an ultra-complicated Audemars Piguet pocket watch from the ‘20s, for a record-breaking price at Sotheby’s.

Recipients Collage 2025 - NJ (1872 x 1050 px) (1872 x 1052 px).png
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow Today

How Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.

JamAlert 1872x1052.png
Supplier BulletinDec 18, 2025
Cell Jammers Are Targeting Your Business. Here's How to Beat Them

Sponsored by Digital Monitoring Products

Weekly QuizDec 18, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Rendering of Bob’s Watches JFK airport store
WatchesDec 18, 2025
Bob’s Watches to Open Store in New York’s JFK Airport

The boutique is slated to open this week inside Terminal 8, offering pre-owned Rolex watches and more to international travelers.

Diamond ring in parts
Lab-GrownDec 18, 2025
Kira Jewels Debuts Custom Lab-Grown Diamond Jewelry Service

The lab-grown diamond grower now offers custom engagement and fashion jewelry through its Kira Custom Lab Jewelry service.

roseco-catalog.png
Brought to you by
Roseco Releases New Full-Line Catalog

Roseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.

Fabergé egg pendant near gloved hand
CrimeDec 17, 2025
Man Pleads Not Guilty to Swallowing Fabergé Pendant

The special-edition egg pendant ingested in a New Zealand jewelry store was recovered after a six-day wait.

Ashley Zhang Jewelry Snake Necklace, Renato Cipullo Hematite Blaze Necklace, Vanessa Fernandez Studio Curva Wrap Hoops, Hernsdorf Tears of Aphrodite Necklace, Robinson Pelham Tsar Star Earrings, Marla Aaron Nymphenburg Lock, Lof The Valentine Ring
EditorsDec 17, 2025
2025 Jewelry Rewind: The Best Piece of the Week Picks

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco plays favorites with Piece of the Week, selecting a standout piece of jewelry from each month of 2025.

Lucy Hale in Jacquie Aiche’s Love and Desire Campaign
CollectionsDec 17, 2025
Lucy Hale Stars in Jacquie Aiche’s Holiday Campaign

The “Love and Desire” campaign is inspired by the magic that follows when one’s heart leads the way, said the brand.

SSEF logo
GradingDec 17, 2025
SSEF Announces 2025 Scholarship Winners

Two awardees will receive free tuition for an educational course at the Swiss lab, with flights and lodging included.

Pandora Alexander Lacik and Berta de Pablos-Barbier
MajorsDec 16, 2025
Pandora’s New CEO Will Step Up Early

Berta de Pablos-Barbier will replace Alexander Lacik at the start of January, two months earlier than expected.

JAR pendant brooch, fancy intense blue diamond
AuctionsDec 16, 2025
Suzanne Belperron, JAR Shine in Sotheby’s First Auctions at New HQ

Sotheby’s held its first two jewelry sales at the Breuer building last week, and they totaled nearly $44 million.

The Jewelry Symposium logo
Events & AwardsDec 16, 2025
TJS Now Accepting Scholarship Applications for 2026

Winners will receive free registration and lodging for its fourth annual event in Detroit.

National Jeweler columnists and PR professionals Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams
ColumnistsDec 16, 2025
Beyond Unboxing: Creative Reveals to Drive Reach and Engagement

Here are six ideas for making more engaging content for Instagram Reels and TikTok, courtesy of Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams.

Tiffany & Co. logo, Anna Martin, CD Peacock logo
Events & AwardsDec 16, 2025
Diamonds Do Good Names 2026 Award Recipients

The honorees include a notable jewelry brand, an industry veteran, and an independent retailer.

Stock image of gavel
CrimeDec 15, 2025
Men Receive Life Sentences in Home Invasion Murder of Jeweler

Carlos Jose Hernandez and Joshua Zuazo were sentenced to life without the possibility of parole in the 2024 murder of Hussein “Sam” Murray.

Eduard Stefanescu, left, and Sara Yood, right
Policies & IssuesDec 15, 2025
Sara Yood Named Co-Chair of RJC Standards Committee

Yood will serve alongside Eduard Stefanescu, the sustainability manager for C.Hafner, a precious metals refiner in Germany.

MS Rau Aspen rendering
IndependentsDec 15, 2025
M.S. Rau to Open Store in Aspen

The New Orleans jeweler is also hosting pop-up jewelry boutiques in New York City and Dallas.

Tiffany & Co. Paraíba tourmaline jewelry
AuctionsDec 12, 2025
13.54-Carat Paraíba Tourmaline Sets Records at Christie’s

Set in a Tiffany & Co. necklace, it sold for $4.2 million, the highest price and price per carat paid for a Paraíba tourmaline at auction.

David Webb holiday window
MajorsDec 12, 2025
David Webb Reveals Ice-Cold Holiday Window Display

The jeweler’s “Deep Freeze” display showcases its iconic jewelry designs frozen in a vintage icebox.

Oscar Heyman Yellow Green Sphene and Diamond Ring
CollectionsDec 12, 2025
Piece of the Week: Oscar Heyman’s Sphene Ring

Take luxury gifting to new heights this holiday season with the jeweler’s showstopping 12-carat sphene ring.

IGI Design Contest Graphic
Events & AwardsDec 12, 2025
IGI Jewelry Design Contest Now Accepting Submissions

This year's theme is “Unveiling the Depths of the Ocean.”

Jacquie Aiche Alien Heart Eye Inlay Necklace, Cicada Dragonfly Brooch, Harkness After the Rain Earrings
TrendsDec 11, 2025
Pinterest 2026 Trend Report: Brooches, Bold Gold, Cool Blue

In its annual report, Pinterest noted an increase in searches for brooches, heirloom jewelry, and ‘80s luxury.

GIA new colored stone report
GradingDec 11, 2025
GIA to Offer Origin Determination for 3 More Gemstones

Starting Jan. 1, customers can request the service for opal, peridot, and demantoid garnet.

Day’s Jewelers Salem New Hampshire store exterior
IndependentsDec 11, 2025
Look Inside Day’s Jewelers’ Ninth Store

The 111-year-old retailer celebrated the opening of its new location in Salem, New Hampshire, which is its third store in the state.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy