Editors

Notes on a Plenary

EditorsDec 20, 2017

Notes on a Plenary

Our editor-in-chief recaps the recent Kimberley Process meeting and looks at where the process goes from here.

2017_KP-logo.jpg

The biggest decision that came out of the Kimberley Process’s biggest meeting of the year was this: All participants voted to form an Ad Hoc Committee on Review and Reform, which will begin looking at ways to evolve the process next year.

The committee is chaired by India, with Angola as vice chair, and, according to a copy of the administrative decision on its creation, will present its conclusions and any draft decisions at next year’s plenary.

The biggest news was this: Impact, the NGO formerly known as PAC, decided to leave the process, citing a lack of progress on pressing issues--specifically, meaningful reform in a process it says is becoming “irrelevant”--and an increasingly hostile environment for members of the KP’s Civil Society Coalition.

It is the second NGO to exit the process, following the 2011 departure of Global Witness.

Impact’s decision to leave the process did not entirely shock me (and it didn’t shock many who are directly involved with the KP either, I’m told); it has been at least 12 months in the making.

Last year, Impact, along with the other 10 members of the Civil Society Coalition, boycotted the process over their objections to the chairmanship of the United Arab Emirates.

This year, Impact returned but made it clear what they wanted: reform in a reform year. (The KP is set up so that it, in theory, it overhauls itself every five years; the last reform cycle was from 2011 to 2013.)

Impact Executive Director Joanne Lebert told me in a post-plenary interview that they wanted to see the KP change the definition of what constitutes a “conflict” diamond to include diamonds tied to abuses by governments and/or security firms, not just those used by rebel groups to overthrow governments.

There also needs to be a strengthening of the KP’s internal controls, and more timely completion and release of reports from review missions, which are currently delayed by as much as two to three years, she said.

What they got was the formation of “another working group,” she said, meaning the aforementioned Ad Hoc Committee on Review and Reform.

During closing remarks Dec. 14 at the plenary in Brisbane, Lebert told KP members that her organization, in simplest terms, was done with the Kimberley Process, though it will remain engaged on the issues facing diamond-producing countries.

“They’re just making themselves irrelevant,” she said in the interview. “(The KP) keeps saying, ‘we’ve eliminated

conflict diamonds’ when, in fact, their definition is obsolete.”

Lebert and Impact are not alone in their view that the KP needs to change.

Following Martin Rapaport’s controversial proclamation earlier this year that the process had become “bullshit,” JCK published two editorials, one from Brad Brooks-Rubin and one from Ian Smillie, in which the authors called for reform.

And the fact that all KP member nations agreed to at least put together a reform committee tells us that even the process itself has come around to the fact that it’s due for a major overhaul.

But the question is: Will the KP be able to get everybody on the same page when it comes to reform and, if so, how many years will it take?

For those who are not aware, the KP operates under a consensus decision-making model. This dictates that all member countries have to agree to pass anything, which, on the flip side, means it takes only one country’s disapproval to block a proposal.

In his editorial in JCK, Smillie, a former research coordinator who worked on conflict diamond issues with PAC (now Impact) and is now president of the Canadian Association for the Study of International Development, talked about the difficulty of getting reform done under the consensus model, which he described as “unworkable.” He wrote that there will not be any “serious evolution” for the KP until that changes.

Lebert described the model to me as “instrumental in blocking any kind of meaningful reform,” while one individual who is a major player in the diamond industry called it “a recipe for not getting anything done.”

But a couple of other individuals with whom I spoke on this issue pointed out that the KP is not the only international mechanism that works this way.

Robert Owen-Jones, who represented chair nation Australia in the process this year, told me in an email that consensus is the “accepted model” in intergovernmental arrangements, and said he couldn’t imagine another system for the KP given that implementation rests on national legislation.

“Consensus does not mean you have to agree with the result in the final plenary, just not object,” he wrote. “Negotiators often say that the best result is where everyone is equally unhappy.”

James Evans Lombe, who attended the KP as the CEO of the U.S. Jewelry Council and a member of the World Diamond Council (WDC) delegation, also pointed out that the KP is not alone in its consensus approach.

He pointed to the World Trade Organization (WTO), the intergovernmental organization that regulates trade, as another example of a body that functions this way.

“It is a failing, but it is also a strength,” he said of the consensus model. “When something is agreed, no one can backtrack … it just means the KP can only go as fast as the slowest runner.

“Our issue, as an industry, is that consumers are moving far faster than governments. Luckily, most governments are now beginning to realize that.”

After touching base with Owen-Jones and Lombe, I circled back around to Smillie to get his thoughts on their viewpoints.

In addition to his role with the Canadian Association, Smillie is chair of the Diamond Development Initiative and attended the plenary to talk about the issues facing the artisanal mining sector.

He said while he understands the need for consensus on larger issues that involve money or governmental changes, he doesn’t understand why the process needs 100 percent agreement to make changes to improve its basic functions.

The monitoring system, for example, is weak and needs to be made more effective. He also expressed the same frustration that Lebert did over the long delays in submission of reports. Those need to be done in three months rather than two years, he said.

“What they (the KP participants) all should understand and appreciate is all the countries that are members benefit in one way or another from the diamond industry,” Smillie said. “It really is an industry worth protecting, but the Kimberley Process is not doing that. It’s failing.”

A few other notes from the plenary:
* The permanent secretariat, which the UAE tried to take credit for last year, still hasn’t been officially voted through. Yes, there is now consensus that the process needs one, but thorny issues remain, including who will pay for it and where it will be based. I am told that the UAE has said it will fund the permanent secretariat but under the condition that it be headquartered there, while the African nations would like to see it in Africa and the WDC is pushing for a neutral location. In a similar vein, the WDC is totally supportive of a DDI proposal that the KP has a conflict of interest rule.

The reform committee has the resolution of these issues surrounding the permanent secretariat on its to-do list for 2018.

* As agreed upon in Dubai last year, the European Union will take over as chair of the KP in 2018 with India serving as vice chair. (The countries served together as co-vice chairs this year.)

* The KP intersessional is set to take place in Antwerp while the scheduled location for the plenary is Brussels.
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Saks Fifth Avenue flagship window installation
MajorsJan 02, 2026
Marc Metrick Out as CEO of Saks Global

Executive Chairman Richard Baker will take over the role as rumors swirl that a bankruptcy filing is imminent for the troubled retailer.

Couture Retailer Liaison Jan Mohr
Events & AwardsJan 02, 2026
Jan Mohr, Couture’s ‘North Star,’ Dies at 71

Mohr had just retired in June after more than two decades as Couture’s retailer liaison.

Shekhar Shah Real Gems
SourcingJan 02, 2026
IDCA Elects New President, Board of Directors

Shekhar Shah of Real Gems Inc. will serve as president of the Indian Diamond & Colorstone Association in 2026.

Recipients Collage 2025 - NJ (1872 x 1050 px) (1872 x 1052 px).png
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow Today

How Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.

Lalaounis good luck charm 2026
CollectionsJan 02, 2026
Lalaounis’ 2026 Good Luck Charm Speaks to Resilience

This year’s good luck charm features the mythical horse Pegasus, and is our first Piece of the Week of the new year.

Weekly QuizDec 23, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Becka Johnson Kibby
MajorsDec 30, 2025
Becka Johnson Kibby to Lead Edge Retail Academy

As part of the leadership transition, Sherry Smith will take on the role of vice president of coaching strategy and development.

Stock image of rough diamonds from Diavik mine in Canada
SourcingDec 30, 2025
India Chosen as KP Chair for 2026

It marks the third time the country has headed the Kimberley Process. Ghana will serve as vice chair.

roseco-catalog.png
Brought to you by
Roseco Releases New Full-Line Catalog

Roseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.

Bulova x Stetson collection
WatchesDec 30, 2025
Bulova, Stetson Collab on Watches With Western Flair

The new Bulova x Stetson designs highlight two animals often associated with the American West—the bison and the Texas Longhorn.

Rahaminov Diamonds Pop-Up at Yamron Jeweler
CollectionsDec 30, 2025
Rahaminov Diamonds Pops Up in Florida

Its residency at Yamron Jewelers will run through May 2026.

In Memoriam collage 2025
IndependentsDec 29, 2025
In Memoriam: Industry Friends We Lost in 2025

From influential executives to innovative designers, we pay tribute to the people we said goodbye to this year.

Tanishq Orlando store exterior
MajorsDec 29, 2025
Tanishq Opens New Stores in Florida, Virginia

The retailer is expanding into areas with large Indian and South Asian populations.

Nanis Madonna di Campiglio Flagship
MajorsDec 29, 2025
Nanis Opens First Flagship Store

The Italian brand has opened its first flagship amid the peaks of the Dolomites in Madonna di Campiglio, Italy.

Amethyst Geodes Unearthed: Raw Beauty
SourcingDec 29, 2025
‘Unearthed: Raw Beauty’ Exhibition Opens at LA Museum

The new curation at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County showcases rare gem and mineral specimens in their uncut, natural state.

Stock image of gavel
CrimeDec 24, 2025
LA Jewelry District Couple Pleads Guilty to Hiding Millions from IRS

The couple pleaded guilty to concealing at least $127 million in cash transactions at its precious metals businesses.

People shopping in winter clothes
SurveysDec 24, 2025
Consumer Confidence Falls Again in December

Consumers shared concerns about prices, inflation, tariffs, trade, and politics in the survey’s write-in response section.

Bonhams US headquarters
AuctionsDec 24, 2025
Bonhams to Open New U.S. Flagship in NYC

In February 2026, the auction house will move its headquarters to the former Steinway Hall, a neoclassical landmark on Billionaires’ Row.

Hana Kaneko rings
Events & AwardsDec 24, 2025
NYC Jewelry, Antique, & Object Show Announces Winter Event

The new show will take place Jan. 23-25, 2026.

Brian Patrick Gilbertson
SourcingDec 23, 2025
Mining Titan Brian Gilbertson Dies at 82

The former BHP Billiton leader and Gemfields chairman is remembered for his influential leadership throughout his 50-year mining career.

Costume Designers Guild Award By Bulgari
Events & AwardsDec 23, 2025
Bulgari Reimagines Costume Designers Guild Award

The LVMH-owned brand has partnered with the costume design union to revamp its award for 2026.

Kering logo
MajorsDec 23, 2025
Kering to Acquire Stake in Raselli Franco Group

The luxury titan inked a deal to acquire an initial minority stake in the jewelry manufacturer with a pathway to full ownership by 2032.

For Future Reference Vintage
MajorsDec 23, 2025
For Future Reference Vintage Enters Bloomingdale’s

The company’s curation of unsigned vintage and estate jewelry debuted at the Bloomingdale’s in Costa Mesa, California.

Counterfeit Cartier and Audemars Piguet watches
CrimeDec 22, 2025
Customs Seizes Hundreds of Fake Rolex, Cartier Watches

In the recent multi-shipment seizure, CBP also found counterfeit Audemars Piguet, Moncler, and Chrome Hearts items.

Graphic for the 2025 Year-End Webinar
Recorded WebinarsDec 22, 2025
2025 Jewelry Rewind: Looking Back on an Eventful Year

Jewelers of America execs and National Jeweler editors discuss tariffs, the sky-high gold price, and the engagement that broke the internet.

Pair of Ippolita Lollatini earrings
MajorsDec 19, 2025
MadaLuxe Group Acquires Ippolita

The luxury goods company said founder Ippolita Rostagno will remain at the brand’s helm.

Bulgari CEO Laura Burdese
MajorsDec 19, 2025
LVMH Names New Bulgari CEO

Laura Burdese, who joined the Italian luxury brand in 2022, will take on the role in July.

Harwell Godfrey Lil Buddies
EditorsDec 19, 2025
2025 Jewelry Superlatives: A Yearbook-Style Year in Review

The National Jeweler editors revisit the most noteworthy industry happenings and design trends from 2025.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy