MajorsApr 23, 2025
Bulgari Doubles Size of Jewelry Factory in ItalyLocated in Valenza, the now 355,000-square-foot facility includes a new jewelry school that’s open to the public, Scuola Bulgari.
TrendsFeb 14, 2018
Jewelry Brand to Know: Melissa Kaye
This is what jewelry looks like when an MIT alum and math whiz funnels her brilliance into design.
Melissa Kaye’s Aria Dagger earrings feature 18-karat yellow gold and white diamonds and are one of her most popular items at the moment. They recently launched on Net-a-Porter and retail for $8,250.
New York--Melissa Kaye doesn’t possess a typical jewelry design background.
The New York-based designer, who wrapped her three-year term in The Couture Show Design Atelier last year, was on a very different career path before giving it all up to pursue her own jewelry line.
She has an undergraduate degree in computer science and engineering from MIT and a master’s degree in computational finance from Carnegie Mellon. She spent 10 years at Goldman Sachs as a quantitative strategist, completing intense technical and financial work.
And when she finally decided to “pursue a lifelong interest in jewelry,” she didn’t take any shortcuts. Instead, she completed the two-year jewelry design program at FIT, studying design and learning to work at the jeweler’s bench.
“Given my mathematical background, I find beauty and inspiration in geometric and natural patterns,” explained Kaye. “I work to incorporate these elements throughout my line, bringing a modern edge to classic shapes. I’m driven by the notion that function must be part of the design, not an afterthought.
“Pieces are engineered to cleverly capture form and function, highlighted by many subtle and unexpected details. The goal is to make each piece in the collection striking at first glance but also demand a closer look to discover additional complexities and levels of abstraction.”
Chloe earrings in 18-karat yellow gold with white diamonds, $5,225
Aria ring in 18-karat white gold with white diamonds, $14,750
Chloe lariat in 18-karat yellow gold, $9,405
Retailers have noticed Kaye’s impeccable design quality and sophisticated taste. Last year, she picked up her biggest account to date—Net-a-Porter.
Kaye works in 18-karat gold and diamonds, and likes to mix in occasional pops of color via sapphires, emeralds and rubies. Her pieces retail for $1,500 to $16,000.
Her latest offerings, mostly earrings and rings, focus on sinuous, curved lines that end in abrupt angles, like the Aria Dagger earrings, which Kaye said are doing particularly well for her brand at the moment.
Kaye’s work is wearable but shows an elevated design perspective that sets her apart from many of her contemporaries. She describes her client as, “… between the ages of 30-70. She is well-traveled and has an urban style. She is accomplished and confident; she has a refined ease to her. Her style is luxurious and transcends labels—she appreciates quality and craftsmanship. She pairs the collection effortlessly with a white T-shirt as well as with black-tie attire.”
Kaye will be back at Couture in May with her own ballroom booth and said that her goal for the year ahead is
to keep developing her designs.
“First and foremost,” she said, “we are always focused on creating exciting, unique and beautiful new pieces.”
“First and foremost,” she said, “we are always focused on creating exciting, unique and beautiful new pieces.”
More on Trends
The Latest
Events & AwardsApr 23, 2025
PDPaola Creative Director Wins FGI’s ‘Rising Star’ AwardPaola Sasplugas, co-founder of the Barcelona-based jewelry brand, received the Fine Jewelry Award.
AuctionsApr 23, 2025
Rare Custom Rolex Daytona Heads to AuctionA platinum Zenith-powered Daytona commissioned in the late ‘90s will headline Sotheby’s Important Watches sale in Geneva next month.
Brought to you by
Protect Your Customers and Your BusinessThe risk of laboratory-grown diamonds being falsely presented as natural diamonds presents a very significant danger to consumer trust.
MajorsApr 23, 2025
David Yurman’s New Campaign Stars Carmelo Anthony, Jaylen BrownThe basketball stars wear men’s jewelry from the “Curb Chain” collection.
Weekly QuizApr 18, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
MajorsApr 22, 2025
Zales’ Rebrand Takes Playful Approach to Fine JewelryThe Signet Jewelers-owned retailer wants to encourage younger shoppers to wear fine jewelry every day, not just on special occasions.
AuctionsApr 22, 2025
Christie’s to Auction JAR Jewelry CollectionThe 21 pieces, all from a private collector, will be offered at its Magnificent Jewels auction next month.
ColumnistsApr 22, 2025
The PR Adviser: Building Buzz Through Word of MouthLilian Raji answers a question from a reader who is looking to grow her jewelry business but has a limited marketing budget.
GradingApr 22, 2025
Avi Levy Is GCAL By Sarine’s New Chief Growth OfficerGCAL by Sarine created the new role to sharpen the company’s focus on strategic partnerships and scalable expansion.
IndependentsApr 22, 2025
Brinker’s Jewelers Acquires Fellow IndependentThe Indiana jeweler has acquired Scottsdale Fine Jewelers in Scottsdale, Arizona.
Events & AwardsApr 21, 2025
An Exhibition Exploring the History of Cartier Is Now on Display“Cartier: Design, Craft, and Legacy” opened earlier this month at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.
IndependentsApr 21, 2025
New York Jeweler to Close After 111 YearsVan Cott Jewelers in Vestal, New York, is hosting a going-out-of-business sale.
IndependentsApr 21, 2025
IJO Names New Director of Vendor Relations, Merchandise StrategyIndustry veteran Samantha Larson has held leadership roles at Borsheims, McTeigue & McClelland, Stuller, and Long’s Jewelers.
Events & AwardsApr 21, 2025
Jewelers of Louisiana, Mississippi Jewelers Association to Co-Host ConventionThe two organizations will hold the educational event together this fall in Mississippi.
Events & AwardsApr 18, 2025
Daymond John to Give Keynote at JCK Las VegasThe entrepreneur and “Shark Tank” star will share his top tips for success.
CollectionsApr 18, 2025
Piece of the Week: Dukachi’s ‘Easter Bread’ PendantThe Ukrainian brand’s new pendant is modeled after a traditional paska, a pastry often baked for Easter in Eastern European cultures.
IndependentsApr 18, 2025
Bremer Jewelry to Reveal Renovated StoreThe jeweler has announced a grand reopening for its recently remodeled location in Peoria, Illinois.
MajorsApr 18, 2025
Tiffany & Co. Employees Star in Mother’s Day CampaignThe “Strong Like Mom” campaign features moms who work at Tiffany & Co. and their children.
CollectionsApr 17, 2025
John Hardy, Athena Calderone Partner on Art Deco Decor-Inspired CollectionInterior designer Athena Calderone looked to decor from the 1920s and 1930s when crafting her first fine jewelry collection.
FinancialsApr 17, 2025
Movado Group to Increase Prices to Offset Tariffs ImpactDuring a call about its full-year results, CEO Efraim Grinberg discussed how the company is approaching the uncertainty surrounding tariffs.
Lab-GrownApr 17, 2025
NDC Launches Its Diamond Learning CenterThe free program provides educational content for jewelry salespeople and enthusiasts to learn or refresh their diamond knowledge.
Policies & IssuesApr 17, 2025
Jewelers of America Requests Tariffs Testimonials from MembersThe feedback will be used to prepare other jewelers for the challenges ahead, the organization said.
TechnologyApr 17, 2025
Technology Therapy Group Expands AI Training for Jewelry RetailersThe online sessions are designed to teach jewelers to use AI tools like ChatGPT and Claude to grow their business.
IndependentsApr 16, 2025
Catbird Expands to ChicagoThe opening marks the jewelry retailer’s first location in the Midwest.
CollectionsApr 16, 2025
Foundrae’s First Commitment Jewelry Collection Unites Through LoveThe “United in Love” collection offers tangible mementos of hearts entwined with traditional and non-traditional commitment heirlooms.
IndependentsApr 16, 2025
Indiana Jeweler to Host Black Jewelry Designer Pop-UpRobert Goodman Jewelers will hold a “Black Jewelry Designers and Makers” event on April 27.
