CrimeFeb 13, 2026
JSA Offering $10K Reward in Nancy Guthrie Case Guthrie, the mother of “Today” show host Savannah Guthrie, was abducted just as the Tucson gem shows were starting.
TrendsJan 28, 2015
The History Behind … Signet rings
This month’s antique jewelry feature examines the role, and resurgence, in society of signet rings, which were used to seal deals (literally) and communicate rank.
It’s signet rings like this circa 1920 14-karat gold piece with old round-cut diamonds that have survived until today. This particular ring is from Doyle&Doyle in New York.
New York--Signet rings have been around since ancient civilization, worn as protective amulets, for betrothal or as early form of branding and currency. But, primarily, they were used to seal deals (literally) and communicate rank.
“I love how personally important signets rings were historically,” said Elizabeth Doyle, co-owner of Doyle & Doyle in New York. “They were used to identify the owner, seal business deals and/ or convey the position or importance of the owner.”
While their purpose evolved over the centuries, signet rings were primarily in the masculine domain. Now, both genders are embracing the signet.
Actress Jennifer Lawrence recently sported one in a magazine fashion spread and Brad Pitt wears his with a tux at red carpet events, as Long’s Jewelers pointed out in its blog.
“I love the classic but edgy look of a signet on a woman. It’s more street style than evening wear,” Doyle said. “We’ve also seen men looking for signet rings as an alternative wedding band. They’re are a great option because they offer beautiful detailing while maintaining a masculine aesthetic.”
What are signet rings? Signet rings date to about 1400 B.C., when they were mostly devotional.
But signets soon evolved into symbols of power. “They became associated with nobility, like the king’s or pope’s rings,” said Sarah Churgin, director of jewelry at Rago Arts and Auctions. “With heraldry came specific crests or coats of arms requiring high-precision carving in very small spaces.”
In the 14th century, signets began to appear in betrothal rings, engraved with two clasped hands, a devotional inscription like “bound in the eyes of God,” and/or the wife’s or couple’s initials.
Thanks to a growing merchant class, signets became a form of branding during the Renaissance. As European merchants took to the Silk Road and began transporting goods overseas, they split up shipments among boats and caravans to minimize loss from theft and piracy. Merchants used signet rings to stamp seals on shipments, making it easier to identify goods on arrival. Their rings became a new sign of wealth and success.
Around the same time, memorial signet rings were introduced, often inscribed with a loved one’s name or initials as a type of mourning jewelry. Signet rings also began to be used to identify somebody as a member of a guild, often referred to as guild rings.
“Signet rings are less about heraldry by this
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
time,” Churgin said. “They become tokens of inclusion or affiliation.”
When were they popular? By the Victorian era, signet rings had become a staple of the well-dressed gentlemen, and part of the revivals of Renaissance and ancient jewelry. Signet rings remained a staple through the Deco and wartime eras, and maintained a high level of quality and elegance.
By 1950, however, both style and craftsmanship plummet. “After that, most signet rings don’t have the same quality,” Doyle says. “Often they have cast crests, instead of hand-engraved, or machine engraving.”
Why did people wear signet rings? Essentially, for the same reason people wear them today. “Wearing signet rings makes you look important,” Churgin says. “For gentlemen, a good signet ring is comfortable but stately looking. With women, they ultimately speak of quality.”
What materials were used for these pieces? Originally, signet rings were made mainly of brass and copper, sometimes bronze or silver, but it’s the gold rings that survive, the ones owned by the wealthy classes.
Starting in ancient times, many signets were carved in hardstone, usually agate, onyx, carnelian, or sardonyx, sometimes lapis or garnet. Most experts include ancient intaglios as a type of signet.
How much are signet rings worth? At Doyle & Doyle, they range from $385 for an early 20th century 14-karat gold heart with a floral-engraved shank to $3,200 for a Victorian ring with a carnelian intaglio and an 18-karat buckle-shaped band.
An English signet ring, c. 1300, sold at Sotheby’s last year for $26,563, yet ancient Roman and Greek intaglio rings frequently go for less than $5,000 at Christie’s antiquities sales. Simple gold signet rings can be found for less than $200 at auctions, especially those based in London.
How can a retailer add signet rings to their antique jewelry offerings? “Start by adding the more accessible styles,” Doyle said. “As your following for this style of ring grows, you can add more unusual and collectible styles.”
Oval shapes and signets with a monogram or coat of arms are the most common, with round shapes coming in a close second. Carved hardstone is slightly less common but still accessible. Rectangle, square and shield shapes are rarer and very collectible.
Doyle said monograms are sometimes a hard sell because people want their own initials. This is one reason celebrities such as Rihanna turn to contemporary designers for vintage-style monogrammed signet rings, custom-engraved with their own initials.
“People tend to prefer the signet rings with crests and coats of arms,” she said. “The ones with monograms can be beautiful too but they’re so personal, they have less universal appeal.”
When were they popular? By the Victorian era, signet rings had become a staple of the well-dressed gentlemen, and part of the revivals of Renaissance and ancient jewelry. Signet rings remained a staple through the Deco and wartime eras, and maintained a high level of quality and elegance.
By 1950, however, both style and craftsmanship plummet. “After that, most signet rings don’t have the same quality,” Doyle says. “Often they have cast crests, instead of hand-engraved, or machine engraving.”
Why did people wear signet rings? Essentially, for the same reason people wear them today. “Wearing signet rings makes you look important,” Churgin says. “For gentlemen, a good signet ring is comfortable but stately looking. With women, they ultimately speak of quality.”
What materials were used for these pieces? Originally, signet rings were made mainly of brass and copper, sometimes bronze or silver, but it’s the gold rings that survive, the ones owned by the wealthy classes.
Starting in ancient times, many signets were carved in hardstone, usually agate, onyx, carnelian, or sardonyx, sometimes lapis or garnet. Most experts include ancient intaglios as a type of signet.
How much are signet rings worth? At Doyle & Doyle, they range from $385 for an early 20th century 14-karat gold heart with a floral-engraved shank to $3,200 for a Victorian ring with a carnelian intaglio and an 18-karat buckle-shaped band.
An English signet ring, c. 1300, sold at Sotheby’s last year for $26,563, yet ancient Roman and Greek intaglio rings frequently go for less than $5,000 at Christie’s antiquities sales. Simple gold signet rings can be found for less than $200 at auctions, especially those based in London.
How can a retailer add signet rings to their antique jewelry offerings? “Start by adding the more accessible styles,” Doyle said. “As your following for this style of ring grows, you can add more unusual and collectible styles.”
Oval shapes and signets with a monogram or coat of arms are the most common, with round shapes coming in a close second. Carved hardstone is slightly less common but still accessible. Rectangle, square and shield shapes are rarer and very collectible.
Doyle said monograms are sometimes a hard sell because people want their own initials. This is one reason celebrities such as Rihanna turn to contemporary designers for vintage-style monogrammed signet rings, custom-engraved with their own initials.
“People tend to prefer the signet rings with crests and coats of arms,” she said. “The ones with monograms can be beautiful too but they’re so personal, they have less universal appeal.”
More on Trends
The Latest
IndependentsFeb 13, 2026
97-Year-Old New Mexico Jewelry Store To CloseButterfield Jewelers in Albuquerque, New Mexico, is preparing to close as members of the Butterfield family head into retirement.
CollectionsFeb 13, 2026
A ‘Rosebud’ Necklace for Valentine’s DayPaul Morelli’s “Rosebud” necklace, our Piece of the Week, uses 18-karat rose, green, and white gold to turn the symbol of love into jewelry.
Brought to you by
The MJSA Mentor & Apprenticeship Program: Attracting & Training the Next Generation of Bench JewelersLaunched in 2023, the program will help the passing of knowledge between generations and alleviate the shortage of bench jewelers.
MajorsFeb 13, 2026
JFC Announces New BeneficiariesThe nonprofit has welcomed four new grantees for 2026.
Weekly QuizFeb 12, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
MajorsFeb 12, 2026
These 8 Saks Fifth Avenue Stores Are ClosingParent company Saks Global is also closing nearly all Saks Off 5th locations, a Neiman Marcus store, and 14 personal styling suites.
CollectionsFeb 12, 2026
British Museum Raises $5M to Keep Jewel Linked to Henry VIII, Katherine of AragonIt is believed the 24-karat heart-shaped enameled pendant was made for an event marking the betrothal of Princess Mary in 1518.
Brought to you by
How Jewelers Can Fight Back Against Cell JammersCriminals are using cell jammers to disable alarms, but new technology like JamAlert™ can stop them.
SourcingFeb 12, 2026
‘Cotton Candy’ Necklace, 35-Carat Kunzite Win 2025 ‘Buyer’s Choice’ AwardsThe AGTA Spectrum and Cutting Edge “Buyer’s Choice” award winners were announced at the Spectrum Awards Gala last week.
Events & AwardsFeb 12, 2026
Kering Opens Entries for 2026 Sustainability-Focused AwardThe “Kering Generation Award x Jewelry” returns for its second year with “Second Chance, First Choice” as its theme.
MajorsFeb 11, 2026
Francesca’s Files for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy AgainThe clothing and accessories chain announced last month it would be closing all of its stores.
CollectionsFeb 11, 2026
Zales Turns Sweethearts Into Jewelry for Valentine’s Day CollectionThe “Zales x Sweethearts” collection features three mystery heart charms engraved with classic sayings seen on the Valentine’s Day candies.
TechnologyFeb 11, 2026
Gemvision Symposium 2026 Slated for AprilThe event will include panel discussions, hands-on demonstrations of new digital manufacturing tools, and a jewelry design contest.
Events & AwardsFeb 11, 2026
TJS Announces Roundtable, Launches New AppRegistration is now open for The Jewelry Symposium, set to take place in Detroit from May 16-19.
SourcingFeb 10, 2026
At Meeting in South Africa, Support for Natural Diamonds Picks Up Steam Namibia has formally signed the Luanda Accord, while two key industry organizations pledged to join the Natural Diamond Council.
SurveysFeb 10, 2026
Shoppers to Spend Big on Jewelry This Valentine’s Day, Says NRFJewelry is expected to be the No. 1 gift this year in terms of dollars spent.
FinancialsFeb 10, 2026
Kering Plans Transformation as 2025 Sales Sink 13%As star brand Gucci continues to struggle, the luxury titan plans to announce a new roadmap to return to growth.
SourcingFeb 10, 2026
AGTA To Debut ‘Stuller Color of the Year’ Spectrum Awards CategoryThe new category asks entrants for “exceptional” interpretations of the supplier’s 2026 color of the year, which is “Signature Red.”
Policies & IssuesFeb 09, 2026
U.S., India Trade Deal One Step Closer to Being FinalizedThe White House issued an official statement on the deal, which will eliminate tariffs on loose natural diamonds and gemstones from India.
Events & AwardsFeb 09, 2026
JA Now Accepting Entries for 2026 CASE AwardsEntries for the jewelry design competition will be accepted through March 20.
IndependentsFeb 09, 2026
James Free Jewelers Unveils Revamped FlagshipThe Ohio jeweler’s new layout features a curated collection of brand boutiques to promote storytelling and host in-store events.
TrendsFeb 09, 2026
These 14 Jewels Will Melt Your Heart This Valentine’s DayFrom heart motifs to pink pearls, Valentine’s Day is filled with jewelry imbued with love.
CrimeFeb 06, 2026
Florida Man Sentenced After Selling Fake Native American Jewelry for a Decade Prosecutors say the man attended arts and craft fairs claiming he was a third-generation jeweler who was a member of the Pueblo tribe.
FinancialsFeb 06, 2026
Pandora’s North America GM Departs Amid Executive ChangesNew CEO Berta de Pablos-Barbier shared her priorities for the Danish jewelry company this year as part of its fourth-quarter results.
TrendsFeb 06, 2026
Margot Robbie, Jacob Elordi Wear Matching Cece Jewellery Signet RingsOur Piece of the Week picks are these bespoke rings the “Wuthering Heights” stars have been spotted wearing during the film’s press tour.
MajorsFeb 05, 2026
Pandora to Begin Selling Platinum-Plated JewelryThe introduction of platinum plating will reduce its reliance on silver amid volatile price swings, said Pandora.
SourcingFeb 05, 2026
De Beers Lowers Production Guidance for 2026, Anglo Mulls Another WritedownIt would be the third impairment charge in three years on De Beers Group, which continues to grapple with a “challenging” diamond market.
