Sponsored by the Gemological Institute of America
The History Behind … Signet rings
This month’s antique jewelry feature examines the role, and resurgence, in society of signet rings, which were used to seal deals (literally) and communicate rank.

New York--Signet rings have been around since ancient civilization, worn as protective amulets, for betrothal or as early form of branding and currency. But, primarily, they were used to seal deals (literally) and communicate rank.
“I love how personally important signets rings were historically,” said Elizabeth Doyle, co-owner of Doyle & Doyle in New York. “They were used to identify the owner, seal business deals and/ or convey the position or importance of the owner.”
While their purpose evolved over the centuries, signet rings were primarily in the masculine domain. Now, both genders are embracing the signet.
Actress Jennifer Lawrence recently sported one in a magazine fashion spread and Brad Pitt wears his with a tux at red carpet events, as Long’s Jewelers pointed out in its blog.
“I love the classic but edgy look of a signet on a woman. It’s more street style than evening wear,” Doyle said. “We’ve also seen men looking for signet rings as an alternative wedding band. They’re are a great option because they offer beautiful detailing while maintaining a masculine aesthetic.”
What are signet rings? Signet rings date to about 1400 B.C., when they were mostly devotional.
But signets soon evolved into symbols of power. “They became associated with nobility, like the king’s or pope’s rings,” said Sarah Churgin, director of jewelry at Rago Arts and Auctions. “With heraldry came specific crests or coats of arms requiring high-precision carving in very small spaces.”
In the 14th century, signets began to appear in betrothal rings, engraved with two clasped hands, a devotional inscription like “bound in the eyes of God,” and/or the wife’s or couple’s initials.
Thanks to a growing merchant class, signets became a form of branding during the Renaissance. As European merchants took to the Silk Road and began transporting goods overseas, they split up shipments among boats and caravans to minimize loss from theft and piracy. Merchants used signet rings to stamp seals on shipments, making it easier to identify goods on arrival. Their rings became a new sign of wealth and success.
Around the same time, memorial signet rings were introduced, often inscribed with a loved one’s name or initials as a type of mourning jewelry. Signet rings also began to be used to identify somebody as a member of a guild, often referred to as guild rings.
“Signet rings are less about heraldry by this
When were they popular? By the Victorian era, signet rings had become a staple of the well-dressed gentlemen, and part of the revivals of Renaissance and ancient jewelry. Signet rings remained a staple through the Deco and wartime eras, and maintained a high level of quality and elegance.
By 1950, however, both style and craftsmanship plummet. “After that, most signet rings don’t have the same quality,” Doyle says. “Often they have cast crests, instead of hand-engraved, or machine engraving.”
Why did people wear signet rings? Essentially, for the same reason people wear them today. “Wearing signet rings makes you look important,” Churgin says. “For gentlemen, a good signet ring is comfortable but stately looking. With women, they ultimately speak of quality.”
What materials were used for these pieces? Originally, signet rings were made mainly of brass and copper, sometimes bronze or silver, but it’s the gold rings that survive, the ones owned by the wealthy classes.
Starting in ancient times, many signets were carved in hardstone, usually agate, onyx, carnelian, or sardonyx, sometimes lapis or garnet. Most experts include ancient intaglios as a type of signet.
How much are signet rings worth? At Doyle & Doyle, they range from $385 for an early 20th century 14-karat gold heart with a floral-engraved shank to $3,200 for a Victorian ring with a carnelian intaglio and an 18-karat buckle-shaped band.
An English signet ring, c. 1300, sold at Sotheby’s last year for $26,563, yet ancient Roman and Greek intaglio rings frequently go for less than $5,000 at Christie’s antiquities sales. Simple gold signet rings can be found for less than $200 at auctions, especially those based in London.
How can a retailer add signet rings to their antique jewelry offerings? “Start by adding the more accessible styles,” Doyle said. “As your following for this style of ring grows, you can add more unusual and collectible styles.”
Oval shapes and signets with a monogram or coat of arms are the most common, with round shapes coming in a close second. Carved hardstone is slightly less common but still accessible. Rectangle, square and shield shapes are rarer and very collectible.
Doyle said monograms are sometimes a hard sell because people want their own initials. This is one reason celebrities such as Rihanna turn to contemporary designers for vintage-style monogrammed signet rings, custom-engraved with their own initials.
“People tend to prefer the signet rings with crests and coats of arms,” she said. “The ones with monograms can be beautiful too but they’re so personal, they have less universal appeal.”
The Latest

Simon Wolf shares why the time was right to open a new office here, what he looks for in a retail partner, and why he loves U.S. consumers.

A third-generation jeweler, Ginsberg worked at his family’s store, Ginsberg Jewelers, from 1948 until his retirement in 2019.

The risk of laboratory-grown diamonds being falsely presented as natural diamonds presents a very significant danger to consumer trust.

The company failed to file its quarterly reports in a timely manner.


The organization also announced its board of directors.

Located in Valenza, the now 355,000-square-foot facility includes a new jewelry school that’s open to the public, Scuola Bulgari.

Paola Sasplugas, co-founder of the Barcelona-based jewelry brand, received the Fine Jewelry Award.

A platinum Zenith-powered Daytona commissioned in the late ‘90s will headline Sotheby’s Important Watches sale in Geneva next month.

The basketball stars wear men’s jewelry from the “Curb Chain” collection.

The Signet Jewelers-owned retailer wants to encourage younger shoppers to wear fine jewelry every day, not just on special occasions.

The 21 pieces, all from a private collector, will be offered at its Magnificent Jewels auction next month.

Lilian Raji answers a question from a reader who is looking to grow her jewelry business but has a limited marketing budget.

GCAL by Sarine created the new role to sharpen the company’s focus on strategic partnerships and scalable expansion.

The Indiana jeweler has acquired Scottsdale Fine Jewelers in Scottsdale, Arizona.

“Cartier: Design, Craft, and Legacy” opened earlier this month at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

Van Cott Jewelers in Vestal, New York, is hosting a going-out-of-business sale.

Industry veteran Samantha Larson has held leadership roles at Borsheims, McTeigue & McClelland, Stuller, and Long’s Jewelers.
The two organizations will hold the educational event together this fall in Mississippi.

The entrepreneur and “Shark Tank” star will share his top tips for success.

The Ukrainian brand’s new pendant is modeled after a traditional paska, a pastry often baked for Easter in Eastern European cultures.

The jeweler has announced a grand reopening for its recently remodeled location in Peoria, Illinois.

The “Strong Like Mom” campaign features moms who work at Tiffany & Co. and their children.

Interior designer Athena Calderone looked to decor from the 1920s and 1930s when crafting her first fine jewelry collection.

During a call about its full-year results, CEO Efraim Grinberg discussed how the company is approaching the uncertainty surrounding tariffs.

The free program provides educational content for jewelry salespeople and enthusiasts to learn or refresh their diamond knowledge.