Editors

To carry, or not to carry

EditorsJun 06, 2014

To carry, or not to carry

I personally attended two panels in Las Vegas where the topic of lab-grown diamonds, also called synthetics, came up; the first covered synthetic diamond disclosure and the second was on five forces shaping the future of the industry. No. 1 of those five was lab-grown diamonds.


Whenever the topic of synthetic diamonds arises, the discussion that generally follows centers on non-disclosure of synthetics, and the dishonest people and companies who try to pass off lab-grown diamonds, particularly melee, as natural.

The most egregious case documented so far has been the 145 undisclosed synthetics that surfaced in the spring of 2012 at the International Gemological Institute’s Antwerp lab.

A number of other smaller incidents of non-disclosure have occurred since then. While this is obviously a situation the industry needs to address, I think the issue of non-disclosure, at times, overshadows a larger question surrounding lab-grown diamonds that nobody is really asking, even as production ramps up around the globe.

And that is this: Retailers, would you carry a line of lab-grown diamond jewelry in your store? How much actual demand do you see for this product?

There are, after all, legitimate, ethical designers and companies selling synthetics.

Lita Asscher, one of the panelists for the five forces shaping the industry talk mentioned above, is the president of Royal Asscher of America. Her family’s company, which has a rich history in the natural diamond business, sells a line of lab-grown colored fashion diamond jewelry called Rebel Chique online. It’s a great way for people to own yellow, pink or blue diamond jewelry, pieces that would be monetarily out of reach for the vast majority of consumers if set with natural stones.


Just before the Las Vegas shows, Toronto-based designer Reena Ahluwalia, who has created pieces for Royal Asscher, among others, introduced a line intended for wholesale distribution, Nuture by Reena, the “world’s first lab-grown diamond designer jewelry brand.”

When I first saw Reena’s news release, I was intrigued. What would make a designer who has worked exclusively with natural stones decide to create a line using lab-grown diamonds? And how was the response from retailers at JCK Las Vegas, where she exhibited the line for the first time?

Reena told me that for her, the choice to design with lab-grown diamonds was a personal and artistic one that sprouted from her own interest in nature vs. nurture. To her, lab-grown diamonds are an example of human innovation and our ability to take inspiration from nature and create something through nurture.

She said at the show, response to her first Nuture line, The Moments Collection, was very positive because the retailers are looking for something different.

Nuture by Reena, I should mention, is a line of lab-grown diamond jewelry that comes with a wearable technology twist. The pieces have a QR code that connects them with an app specifically designed for the Moments collection. The app allows users to share the story behind the “moment” when the jewelry was exchanged.

In the end, Reena said, today’s consumers are looking for a choice, and that is all she trying to give them: a choice to buy lab-grown diamond jewelry if they want it, with clear education and total transparency.

“The question I would ask is, what can we do to make sure that lab-grown diamonds find their rightful place and are given the ability to present themselves fairly?” Reena said. “History has shown that with acceptance comes peace, harmony and real growth.”

So, retailers, the question comes down to you: to carry, or not to carry, jewelry set with lab-grown diamonds in your store?
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Alex Consani in Pandora Talisman campaign
CollectionsAug 27, 2026
Pandora Expands ‘Talisman’ Collection as Lawsuit Continues

The second iteration of the jewelry collection was inspired by the zodiac and the four elements: earth, water, air and fire.

Stock image of loose polished diamonds
SourcingAug 27, 2026
OFAC Renews License Allowing Import of ‘Grandfathered’ Russian Diamonds

General License 104B supersedes General License 104A, which was set to expire on Sept. 1.

Counterfeit Cartier Love bracelet
CrimeAug 27, 2026
Customs Seizes Nearly 900 Pieces of Counterfeit Jewelry

The package, intercepted in Indianapolis, contained fake Cartier, Tiffany & Co., and Van Cleef and Arpels jewelry.

Cover.jpg
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk About

Submit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.

Jessica McCormack South Coast Plaza California Store Exterior
IndependentsAug 27, 2026
Jessica McCormack to Open First West Coast Store

The new location in Costa Mesa, California, marks the brand’s second store in the United States and fourth standalone location worldwide.

Weekly QuizAug 27, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Kate Spade Movado watches
FinancialsAug 27, 2026
Movado’s Q2 Sales Up As Younger Consumers Take Interest in Watches

The fashion watch category was once threatened by the Apple Watch, but consumers are now opting for new wearables, said Movado’s CEO.

Retrouvaí flying pig signet ring
SurveysAug 26, 2026
5 Jewelry Insights From The RealReal’s Resale Report

The report delves into trending styles, the most popular jewelry brands by city, and why Belle Époque jewelry could be the next big thing.

1872-x-1052-July-ad (1).png
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying Events

Retailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.

AGTA 17th edition gemstone information manual
Lab-GrownAug 26, 2026
AGTA Now Requiring Members to Call Lab-Grown Gems ‘Synthetic’

The association added the requirement to its revised "Code of Ethics" and released the 17th edition of its “Gemstone Information Manual.”

Hand pushing a shopping cart
SurveysAug 26, 2026
Consumer Confidence Dips in August Amid Anticipatory Anxieties

Respondents were concerned about the future of the labor market and their income as well as the rising prices of gas and groceries.

Boucheron Goutte Eternity Question Mark
TrendsAug 26, 2026
Boucheron’s New Campaign Celebrates Its ‘Question Mark’ Necklaces

The campaign highlights the asymmetrical high jewelry necklace style that the jeweler first created in 1879.

Harry Winston Rare Jewels of the World
Events & AwardsAug 26, 2026
Harry Winston Exhibition to Open in Shanghai

It will explore the life of “The King of Diamonds” and showcase more than 165 creations from the brand.

Alnesha Bianca Handy and James Arthur Graves Graham Jr.
CrimeAug 25, 2026
Florida Woman Scammed Out of $1.5M in Jewelry, Precious Metals

Two suspects have been arrested in connection with the complex phone scam.

Technology Therapy Group Founder and CEO Jennifer Shaheen
ColumnistsAug 25, 2026
Proof Before Purchase: The Gen Z Way to Buy

In her first column for National Jeweler, Jennifer Shaheen asks jewelers if they know how to connect with the next generation of consumers.

SSEF logo
Events & AwardsAug 25, 2026
SSEF Opens 2026 Applications for Gemology Education Scholarships

The annual awards cover tuition for an on-site educational course at the Swiss lab, as well as flights and lodging.

Brent Neale x Blackberry Farm Blackberry Pendants
TrendsAug 25, 2026
Brent Neale Celebrates Blackberry Farm’s Anniversary With Jewelry

The jeweler partnered with the Tennessee resort to honor its 50th anniversary with limited-edition blackberry pendants and earrings.

Rio Grande Metalwerx Argentium Silver leaves
Events & AwardsAug 24, 2026
Rio Grande, MetalWerx Host Argentium Silver Workshop

The class, led by renowned metalsmith Cynthia Eid, highlighted Argentium silver as an alternative to gold amid high prices.

Jewelry at JIS Miami
Events & AwardsAug 24, 2026
JIS Miami Opens Fall 2026 Registration

The show is slated for Oct. 16-19 at the Miami Beach Convention Center.

Francesca Villa Empress Joséphine Necklace
CollectionsAug 24, 2026
Francesca Villa Honors Napoleon, His Empresses In New Capsule

The “Empresses” capsule uses 19th-century medals depicting Napoleon, Joséphine, and Marie-Louise across five one-of-a-kind pieces.

Interior of Dick’s Sporting Goods store
SurveysAug 21, 2026
These Are 2026’s Hottest Retailers, Says NRF

The retailers at the top of the list offer affordable products and fun, discovery-fueled experiences.

Daniel Bing
WatchesAug 21, 2026
Bremont Names Former Vacheron Constantin Exec CMO

Daniel Bing was formerly the marketing director for the Americas at Vacheron Constantin.

Bijules x Kamyen Topspin Tennis Bracelet in Grass Green
CollectionsAug 21, 2026
Bijules, Kamyen Serve Up ‘Topspin’ Tennis Bracelet Ahead of US Open

In our Piece of the Week, the designers reimagine the tennis bracelet with green enamel wrapped around a strand of “Desert Diamonds.”

Graphic for Episode 8 of the My Next Question podcast
PodcastsAug 20, 2026
Episode 8: Diamond Industry Update With David Bonaparte & Ronnie VanderLinden

The industry veterans join the podcast to discuss diamond marketing, the FTC Jewelry Guides, and lobbying for lower tariffs.

Gemstone AI app screenshots
TechnologyAug 20, 2026
A New AI-Powered Gemstone Identification App Is Here

Founder Vik Westermann said the app is a “starting point” to inspire people to work with appraisers and gem labs, not replace them.

Verdura unicorn brooch
AuctionsAug 20, 2026
Storied Unicorn Brooch Up for Auction Gallops to New Home

The Verdura brooch, which belonged to the late Virginia Fortune Ryan Ogilvy, was sold to a private collector in Asia.

Lianna Carter, Lauren Edwards, Thomas Koslowski, Erin Perry, Heran Wang
Events & AwardsAug 20, 2026
MJSA Education Foundation Names 5 Scholarship Winners

The five students were awarded a total of $10,000 through the nonprofit’s 2026 “Future of Jewelry Making” scholarship.

The Plumb Club 2026-2027 Executive Committee and Board Members
MajorsAug 20, 2026
Plumb Club Elects 2026-2027 Board

Steven Lerche is now beginning his term as the youngest member to become president of The Plumb Club’s elected executive committee.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy