Grading

System for Comparing Color in Gemstones Launched in Tucson

GradingFeb 12, 2019

System for Comparing Color in Gemstones Launched in Tucson

ColorCodex offers a way for the trade to communicate and compare the color of faceted gemstones using numeric values.

20190212_ColorCodex-header.jpg
The new ColorCodex system features color “windows” attached to numeric values to provide a way to compare and communicate the color of faceted gemstones.

Tucson, Ariz.—A new color referencing tool launched in Tucson, designed to help the industry communicate and compare the color of gemstones in a consistent manner.

Chris Smith, developer of the system and president of American Gemological Laboratories, debuted ColorCodex during the AGTA GemFair trade show with a workshop event along with others who had a hand in the project. 

The tool, built by gemologists for gemologists, allows industry professionals to compare and reference the color of faceted gemstones.

“Throughout my career in gemology, I’ve always marveled at how an industry that’s built on color is always struggling with how to communicate color and how to deal with color in stones,” Smith said during the Tucson event.

The ColorCodex concept originally debuted in beta form, so to speak, during the AGTA GemFair in 2017. Gem dealers, market analysts and major international laboratories have been testing it for the past two years.

ColorCodex consists of 13 color sheets of 40 color “windows,” each with a reflective and patterned foil to mimic the appearance of a faceted gemstone. Each window has a corresponding numeric code—without any color descriptors—so the designators can be used for many applications, developers said.

There is a total of 65 different hues.

In the system, each hue is represented by its own column, which is then divided into eight windows depicting the varying intensity or saturation of that specific color.


ColorCodex is comprised of 13 color sheets of 40 color “windows,” each with a reflective and patterned foil to mimic the appearance of a faceted gemstone to allow for the easy identification of a stone’s precise color.

The colors, or hues, are evenly numbered horizontally across the page from 10 through 138, while the vertical windows showing intensity are given odd numbers from 03 through 17.

Combining these two numeric values therefore defines not only a specific color but also its level of saturation.

Space also has been left between the color windows on each sheet to allow for when a gemstone’s color may fall in between two.

Developers addressed when gemstones also have an added tonal element to their color by designing gray overlay cards.

“In transparent faceted gems, cutting will create brightened reflections of brilliance and color as well as blackened areas of extinction,” Smith said in a press release. “The ColorCodex system was specifically engineered to mimic this appearance and present color more as we see it in gems.”

Smith

added in Tucson that he is purposefully not dictating ColorCodex’s use to allow “the industry itself to determine how it can be used and what the applications can be.”

But developers have a few suggestions.

Appraisers can use ColorCodex to assign color reference for value without relying on trade terms, gem dealers and suppliers can better match stones and fulfill orders, or new gemologists can be trained about the nuance of color in various gemstones and varieties.

Another area of possible use noted at the launch event is to help the industry set parameters for varieties that are defined by color; for example, setting borders to differentiate between ruby and pink sapphire, imperial and precious topaz, and the like. In this case, it could be useful to trade organizations and gemological laboratories.

AGL has started using ColorCodex internally to standardize color calls and structure its trade names, Smith said. He added that he has approached several labs about using the system as well.

The tool is priced at $2,000 and can be ordered online.

It includes 13 color referencing sheets, five overlay sheets and three plastic travel sleeves. It also comes with a guide on how to use the tool as well as how to apply it when it comes to zoned and bi-color stones.

At the ColorCodex launch event in Tucson, developers said they also would like to address the issue of changing color perception based on lighting conditions.

They will do this by creating their own light to go along with the tool, which will have the full spectrum with less UV, to allow for uniform lighting among all users.

Developers are still working on prototypes but are hopeful the ColorCodex lamp will launch soon.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Stock image of a man’s hands in handcuffs
CrimeMay 08, 2025
Former NYC Jewelry Store Employee Arrested in 2017 Choking Death of Boss

Michel Desalles allegedly murdered Omid Gholian inside World of Gold N Diamond using zip ties and then fled the country.

2025 Met Gala jewelry
EditorsMay 08, 2025
5 ‘Superfine’ Met Gala Jewelry Moments

Associate Editor Lauren McLemore shares her favorite looks from a night of style inspired by Black dandyism.

instappraise-1.png
Supplier BulletinMay 08, 2025
Instappraise Introduces Game-Changing Trifold Appraisal Format

Sponsored by Instappraise

antique_Vegas_2024_by_headshot_stories_9454.jpg
Brought to you by
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show: Showcasing the Most Collectible Merchandise from Across the Globe

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

Brilliant Earth three stone Sabine diamond engagement ring
FinancialsMay 08, 2025
Brilliant Earth Notes an Uptick in Engagement Ring Sales in Q1

CEO Beth Gerstein discussed the company’s bridal bestsellers, the potential impact of tariffs, and the rising price of gold.

Weekly QuizMay 08, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Exterior of Margot McKinney Beverly Hills Location
IndependentsMay 08, 2025
Margot McKinney Lands in the U.S. With New Boutique

The brand’s first independent location outside of Australia has opened in Beverly Hills, California.

Cathy Marsh
IndependentsMay 08, 2025
Verragio Announces New Regional Sales Manager

Cathy Marsh will lead the jewelry company’s efforts in the upper Midwest and western United States.

Supplier Spotlight -Recorded-Webinar.png
Brought to you by
Watch: The Winston Red: GIA Examines the Smithsonian’s Newest Addition

Supplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA

Pandora gold and silver charm bracelet
FinancialsMay 07, 2025
Pandora Posts Strong Q1, Plans for Tariffs

The company has multiple strategies for dealing with tariffs, though its CEO said moving manufacturing to the U.S. is not one of them.

Headshot of Smart Age Solutions CEO Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsMay 07, 2025
The Smart Lab: Building a Seasonal Marketing Strategy for Mother’s Day and Beyond

Connecting with your customers throughout the year is key to a successful holiday marketing push.

Gemfields rough emeralds
SourcingMay 07, 2025
Gemfields Says Emerald Sales Improved in Latest Auction

Its commercial-quality emerald sale held last month totaled more than $16 million, up from about $11 million in September 2024.

Logo for “In the Loupe,” Punchmark’s podcast
TechnologyMay 07, 2025
Punchmark’s Latest Podcast Features a Very Special Guest

National Jeweler Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff joined Michael Burpoe to talk tariffs, consumer confidence, and the sky-high price of gold.

Harwell Godfrey Met Gala brooch with Mediterranean Blue diamond
AuctionsMay 06, 2025
Harwell Godfrey Reimagines 10-Carat Blue Diamond for Met Gala-Ready Brooch

Designer Lauren Harwell Godfrey made the piece as an homage to the 2025 gala’s theme, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.”

Jewelers of America 20 Under 40 for 2025
Events & AwardsMay 06, 2025
Here’s Who Made Jewelers of America’s New ‘20 Under 40’ List

Expanded this year to include suppliers, JA’s 2025 list honors 40 up-and-coming professionals in the jewelry industry.

Sissys Log Cabin Fort Smith Arkansas
IndependentsMay 06, 2025
Sissy's Log Cabin Opens New Store

Located in Fort Smith, it’s the Mid-South jeweler’s first store in Northwest Arkansas.

Gunderson’s Jewelers
IndependentsMay 06, 2025
Gunderson’s Jewelers to Be Featured on ‘World’s Greatest’ TV Series

The episode about the family-owned jeweler will premiere May 17.

Zadok Jewelers Austin store
IndependentsMay 05, 2025
Zadok Jewelers Opens Store in Austin

The Houston-based jeweler’s new 11,000-square-foot showroom will include a Rolex boutique.

Nancy Astor Cartier turquoise and diamond tiara
AuctionsMay 05, 2025
Nancy Astor’s Cartier Tiara Heads to Auction

The turquoise and diamond tiara hasn’t been on the market since it was purchased by Lord Astor in 1930.

David DeCook Crater of Diamonds State Park 3.81-carat brown Duke Diamond
SourcingMay 05, 2025
Crater of Diamonds Yields 4-Carat Brown Diamond

“The Duke Diamond” is the largest diamond registered at the Arkansas park so far this year.

Kraft Mac & Cheese x Ring Concierge Forever Macaroni Necklace
TrendsMay 02, 2025
Ring Concierge, Kraft Partner on Mother’s Day Macaroni Necklace

The childhood craft of making dried pasta necklaces for Mother’s Day is all grown up as the 14-karat gold “Forever Macaroni” necklace.

Angely Martinez emerald Promise ring
CollectionsMay 02, 2025
Piece of the Week: Angely Martinez’s Emerald Promise Ring

Set with May’s birthstone and featuring an earthworm, this ring is a perfect celebration of spring.

Stuller 2025-2026 bridal catalog
MajorsMay 02, 2025
Stuller’s New Bridal Catalog Is Here

“Bridal 2025–2026” includes popular styles and a dedicated section for quick pricing references of lab-grown diamond bridal jewelry.

Americut Gems
SourcingMay 01, 2025
Tariffs & Colored Gemstones: Relying on Stock, Considering the Ripple Effect

Though currently paused, high tariffs threaten many countries where gemstones are mined. Dealers are taking measures now to prepare.

Exterior of new David Yurman store in the Miami Design District
MajorsMay 01, 2025
Peek Inside David Yurman’s New Miami Flagship Store

Located in Miami’s Design District, the 4,000-square-foot store is an homage to David and Sybil Yurman’s artistic roots.

Oscar Heyman emerald and diamond necklace
TrendsMay 01, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: 20 Pieces of Emerald Jewelry for May

May babies are lucky indeed, born in a month awash with fresh colors and celebrated with one of the most coveted colored gemstones.

Jewelers of America logo
MajorsMay 01, 2025
Jewelers of America Opens Applications for 2025 Scholarships

The deadline to apply for the Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship is June 12.

Stock image of an empty clothing store
SurveysApr 30, 2025
Consumer Confidence Hits Pandemic-Level Low Amid Tariff Concerns

What’s really worrying U.S. consumers isn’t the present situation; it’s what the economy is going to look like six months from now.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy