Grading

System for Comparing Color in Gemstones Launched in Tucson

GradingFeb 12, 2019

System for Comparing Color in Gemstones Launched in Tucson

ColorCodex offers a way for the trade to communicate and compare the color of faceted gemstones using numeric values.

20190212_ColorCodex-header.jpg
The new ColorCodex system features color “windows” attached to numeric values to provide a way to compare and communicate the color of faceted gemstones.

Tucson, Ariz.—A new color referencing tool launched in Tucson, designed to help the industry communicate and compare the color of gemstones in a consistent manner.

Chris Smith, developer of the system and president of American Gemological Laboratories, debuted ColorCodex during the AGTA GemFair trade show with a workshop event along with others who had a hand in the project. 

The tool, built by gemologists for gemologists, allows industry professionals to compare and reference the color of faceted gemstones.

“Throughout my career in gemology, I’ve always marveled at how an industry that’s built on color is always struggling with how to communicate color and how to deal with color in stones,” Smith said during the Tucson event.

The ColorCodex concept originally debuted in beta form, so to speak, during the AGTA GemFair in 2017. Gem dealers, market analysts and major international laboratories have been testing it for the past two years.

ColorCodex consists of 13 color sheets of 40 color “windows,” each with a reflective and patterned foil to mimic the appearance of a faceted gemstone. Each window has a corresponding numeric code—without any color descriptors—so the designators can be used for many applications, developers said.

There is a total of 65 different hues.

In the system, each hue is represented by its own column, which is then divided into eight windows depicting the varying intensity or saturation of that specific color.


ColorCodex is comprised of 13 color sheets of 40 color “windows,” each with a reflective and patterned foil to mimic the appearance of a faceted gemstone to allow for the easy identification of a stone’s precise color.

The colors, or hues, are evenly numbered horizontally across the page from 10 through 138, while the vertical windows showing intensity are given odd numbers from 03 through 17.

Combining these two numeric values therefore defines not only a specific color but also its level of saturation.

Space also has been left between the color windows on each sheet to allow for when a gemstone’s color may fall in between two.

Developers addressed when gemstones also have an added tonal element to their color by designing gray overlay cards.

“In transparent faceted gems, cutting will create brightened reflections of brilliance and color as well as blackened areas of extinction,” Smith said in a press release. “The ColorCodex system was specifically engineered to mimic this appearance and present color more as we see it in gems.”

Smith

added in Tucson that he is purposefully not dictating ColorCodex’s use to allow “the industry itself to determine how it can be used and what the applications can be.”

But developers have a few suggestions.

Appraisers can use ColorCodex to assign color reference for value without relying on trade terms, gem dealers and suppliers can better match stones and fulfill orders, or new gemologists can be trained about the nuance of color in various gemstones and varieties.

Another area of possible use noted at the launch event is to help the industry set parameters for varieties that are defined by color; for example, setting borders to differentiate between ruby and pink sapphire, imperial and precious topaz, and the like. In this case, it could be useful to trade organizations and gemological laboratories.

AGL has started using ColorCodex internally to standardize color calls and structure its trade names, Smith said. He added that he has approached several labs about using the system as well.

The tool is priced at $2,000 and can be ordered online.

It includes 13 color referencing sheets, five overlay sheets and three plastic travel sleeves. It also comes with a guide on how to use the tool as well as how to apply it when it comes to zoned and bi-color stones.

At the ColorCodex launch event in Tucson, developers said they also would like to address the issue of changing color perception based on lighting conditions.

They will do this by creating their own light to go along with the tool, which will have the full spectrum with less UV, to allow for uniform lighting among all users.

Developers are still working on prototypes but are hopeful the ColorCodex lamp will launch soon.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

National Jeweler columnist Sherry Smith, partner at The Retail Smiths
ColumnistsApr 09, 2026
Jewelry Demand Isn’t Stronger, Prices Are Just Higher

Jewelers who misinterpret the state of the jewelry market risk employing the wrong retail strategy, cautions columnist Sherry Smith.

Tiffany & Co. Nathalie Verdeille
MajorsApr 09, 2026
Tiffany & Co. Promotes Nathalie Verdeille to SVP, Chief Artistic Officer

In her newly expanded role, she will continue to oversee the jewelry category, as well as watches, home, and accessories.

Jacob & Co. The Godfather II Musical Watch
WatchesApr 09, 2026
Jacob & Co. Rolls Out Its Sequel to ‘The Godfather’ Musical Watch

“The Godfather II” watch plays two melodies from the mob film’s score, “The Godfather’s Waltz” and “The Godfather Love Theme.”

GIA iD100®
Brought to you by
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

You deserve to know what you are selling–to protect your customers as well as your business and your reputation.

Jesse Itzler
Events & AwardsApr 09, 2026
JCK Announces Jesse Itzler as 2026 Keynote Speaker

Organizers have also introduced the new JCK Talks Signature Series, as well as an offering of watch-focused workshops and lectures.

Weekly QuizApr 09, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Alan Hodgkinson
SourcingApr 09, 2026
AGA To Honor ‘Quiet Leadership’ With New Award

The Alan Hodgkinson Medal recognizes gemologists who are consistently generous with their time and expertise.

Oris CEO Rolf Studer and Oris CFO Claudine Gertiser
WatchesApr 09, 2026
Oris Names New CEO, CFO

The Swiss watchmaker is changing up its executive leadership team as part of a restructuring.

TopImageCrop.jpg
Brought to you by
Is This You? Every Jeweler Has This Problem; We Have the Solution.

Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.

Hearts On Fire What’s Your Signature Campaign Imagery
CollectionsApr 08, 2026
Hearts On Fire Celebrates 30 Years By Asking a Question

The “What’s Your Signature?” campaign invites women to think about how they see themselves.

41.82-carat Type IIb blue diamond recovered from Cullinan in January 2026
SourcingApr 08, 2026
Sale of 42-Carat Blue Diamond Gives Petra a Boost in Q3

The big diamond’s sale added to the company’s revenue though the market remains “challenging” overall, particularly for smaller goods.

American Gem Society Confluence Logo
Events & AwardsApr 08, 2026
AGS Confluence Returns with AI, Sustainability Sessions

Rob Bates of The Jewelry Wire will also moderate a panel on the state of the jewelry industry during the virtual event.

Dennis Buzz Busby and Randy Welch
Events & AwardsApr 08, 2026
TJS to Honor 2 Longtime Former Stuller Employees

The Jewelry Symposium will honor two industry veterans with lifetime achievement awards at its upcoming May event.

Isabel Delgado A necklace
TrendsApr 08, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: April’s Brilliant Birthstone

With their durability, brilliance, and beauty, diamonds are the perfect stone for everyday birthstone jewelry.

QVC Group logo
MajorsApr 07, 2026
QVC Group’s Latest Filing Calls Its Future Into Question

The retailer failed to file its annual report on time and said it may issue a going concern warning.

Headshot of National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsApr 07, 2026
Peter Smith: A Tip to the Post Office on Workplace Culture

Smith recounts a recent trip to the post office that included an uncomfortable, embarrassing, and public exchange between two employees.

Gemology Geek Ignite collection tourmaline ring
CollectionsApr 07, 2026
Nerd Out Over Gemology Geek’s First Jewelry Collection

Founder Erica Silverglide has designed 35 colorful pieces set with fluorescing gemstones for the brand's first finished jewelry offering.

Ukrainian Jewelry | Contemporary Jewelry and Art Jewelry from Ukraine
CollectionsApr 07, 2026
Ukrainian Jewelers Highlighted In New Book

“Ukrainian Jewelry | Contemporary Jewelry and Art Jewelry from Ukraine” features 33 contemporary Ukrainian designers and studios.

Fope Golden Now Campaign Imagery
CollectionsApr 06, 2026
Fope’s New Jewelry Debuts Are Golden

“The Golden Now” campaign celebrates the here and now with the brand’s signature styles and a selection of its new pieces.

Former Signet executive Kecia Caffie
MajorsApr 06, 2026
Kecia Caffie, Corinne Bentzen No Longer With Signet Jewelers

Signet confirmed that Caffie, president of Zales and Banter, and Bentzen, who headed Blue Nile, have left the company.

Author Tanzy Ward and her book Precious Black Jewels The Bijou Material Culture of Black Victorians & Edwardians
CollectionsApr 06, 2026
Historian Tanzy Ward Pens Book on Black Victorians’ Jewelry

The antique jewelry dealer talks about the importance of including Black Americans in jewelry history and preserving their stories.

Gemfields emeralds
SourcingApr 06, 2026
Gemfields Reports $51M Loss in 2025

Both its mines faced challenges last year, from operational issues to disruptions in the market.

Screenshot of Taylor Swift's "Elizabeth Taylor" music video
CollectionsApr 03, 2026
Taylor Swift’s ‘Elizabeth Taylor’ Video Puts Jewelry Front and Center

Iconic pieces, like the Mike Todd Diamond Tiara, appear in the superstar’s new music video for her song inspired by the actress.

Neiman Marcus store in Fort Worth, Texas
MajorsApr 03, 2026
Saks Global Says It Will Emerge From Bankruptcy This Summer

The luxury retailer, which went Chapter 11 in January, announced Thursday that it has secured $500 million in exit financing.

NouvelleBox logo
Events & AwardsApr 03, 2026
JCK Luxury, NouvelleBox Partner on New Designer Ballroom

The NouvelleBox ballroom will feature independent jewelry designers, including Lene Vibe, Wyld Box Jewelry, and Kiaia Limited.

Buddha Mama Moon Locket
CollectionsApr 03, 2026
Buddha Mama Brings Its ‘Moon’ Locket To Dallas

The one-of-a-kind locket, our Piece of the Week, opens to reveal three hidden images to keep close to your heart.

Pandora distribution facility Canada
MajorsApr 02, 2026
Pandora Opens New Canadian Distribution Center Amid Tariff Concerns

The new facility was also designed to better serve its growing customer base in Canada.

Michelle Yeoh Mikimoto
TrendsApr 02, 2026
Michelle Yeoh Fronts New Mikimoto Campaign

The campaign is a tribute to the year 1893, when Kokichi Mikimoto created the world’s first cultured pearl.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy