Grading

GIA Finds Imitation Emerald Made of Layered Glass

GradingAug 23, 2018

GIA Finds Imitation Emerald Made of Layered Glass

The 3.35-carat stone had a natural beryl core; glass layers were attached to it with a “colorless cement.”

20180823_GIA-Header.jpg
A face-up view of the imitation emerald under cross-polarized light showing the inert reaction of the outer material and interference planes that outline the beryl core (Photomicrograph by Tyler Smith, GIA)

New York—Another gem has surfaced at a lab that was not entirely what it seemed.

A 3.35-carat “emerald” submitted to the Gemological Institute of America’s New York lab turned out to be an assembled imitation gemstone composed of five layers of glass cemented to a beryl core, according to an article by Tyler Smith and Augusto Castillo in the Summer 2018 issue of Gems & Gemology.

The rectangular core was a natural beryl, the mineral species to which emerald belongs, but the crown was a single piece of glass attached to the pavilion, while the pavilion was composed of four asymmetrical glass segments glued to the core using a “colorless cement.”

The imitation stone probably took a while to create using a “laborious multistep cut-and-glue process,” GIA authors said, as indicated by the way the four glass segments in the pavilion are interlocked.


When viewed face up, the imitation emerald showed the natural inclusions seen underneath the table as well as large bubbles visible at the corners of the beryl core. (Photo by Jian Xin (Jae) Liao, GIA)
The manufacturing of the piece started by attaching a glass segment to the beryl core. Both were then cut to create a flat surface for a second piece of glass. The second was then added, cut to allow for the third, and so forth.

After all four had been added, the assembled pavilion likely would have been polished flat to allow for the crown, which then would have been attached.

(Check out the original lab note from GIA for a diagram showing the process.)

The article also noted that while assemblages of various materials have long been used to imitate precious stones—with the most common kind using two or more pieces joined together in parallel, layered fashions—GIA researchers weren’t able to find record of another stone assembled using the process applied to this “emerald.”

RELATED CONTENT: Glued-Together Diamond Turns Up at GIA
GIA said it was the first time one such assembled stone has been submitted to its New York or Carlsbad laboratories.

Researchers surmise that the imitation emerald was created relatively recently, given the fact that all its exposed surfaces are made of glass and, yet, the facet junctions are still sharp and the stone lacks wear.

“It is intriguing that an antiquated technique is updated in modern times, serving as a cautionary tale of the ingenuity counterfeiters employ,” the authors said.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

A Marvelous Journey: The Collection of Maurice Tempelsman
AuctionsJun 04, 2026
Treasures from Maurice Tempelsman’s ‘Marvelous’ Life Head to Auction

Up for auction at Sotheby’s, the collection of Tempelsman’s personal effects includes a Cartier Tank watch Jackie O. gifted him.

Dakota Badia and Nancy Badia
CollectionsJun 04, 2026
Buddha Mama to Spend the Summer in Aspen

The Miami-based fine jewelry brand will host its first summer residency in the Colorado mountain town from June 5 to Aug. 23.

AGS at Peter Yantzer Building dedication
MajorsJun 04, 2026
AGS Honors Late Peter Yantzer, Holds Time Capsule Ceremony

The organization also announced its international board of directors for the 2026-2027 term.

PG-05-SHOT-2-LUCIDA.033 1.png
Brought to you by
All Eyes on Gold Prices. Alternatives to Look For. And What to BEWARE of in Vegas

As gold prices rise, today’s retailers are looking for alternatives at prices that will appeal to wider audiences.

Neiman Marcus downtown Dallas store
MajorsJun 04, 2026
Neiman Marcus’ Downtown Dallas Store to Close in September

Saks Global confirmed the closure this week, spelling the end for a store that’s been part of downtown Dallas for more than 100 years.

Weekly QuizJun 04, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
The Retail Smiths founder and National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsJun 03, 2026
Peter Smith: When Top Talent Leaves and What It Says About You

Smith discusses how managers should handle a top performer's exit, warning that a poor response could have a lasting impact.

The 1916 Company Coast to Coast Roadshow
WatchesJun 03, 2026
The 1916 Company Taking Pre-Owned Rolexes on the Road, Again

The retailer is bringing Rolex Certified Pre-Owned watches to five U.S. cities in 2026 for collectors to see, try on, and purchase.

1872x1052-NextGem-2026-National-Jeweler-Advertorial.jpg
Brought to you by
How Modern Training Is Becoming a Competitive Advantage for Jewelry Retailers

With the trade and customer trust in mind, GIA® developed NextGem™ – on-demand training designed specifically for retail.

Jessica Alba in Gabriel & Co. campaign
IndependentsJun 03, 2026
Jessica Alba Is the New Face of Gabriel & Co.

The actress and entrepreneur stars in the jeweler’s new campaign that celebrates life’s quiet moments.

Anna Maccieri Rossi Ora Wood Sunrise Cuff, Marie Lichtenberg High Jewelry Bandana, Anna Maccieri Rossi Carpe Diem Pendant
TrendsJun 03, 2026
State of Design: Only the Innovative Will Survive

The price of gold has risen, affecting the number of pieces designers make, the materials they use, and how they position themselves.

Woman with crossed hands and rings on fingers
FinancialsJun 02, 2026
Signet Jewelers’ Q1 Sales Up 2% As It Focuses on ‘Core Four’

The jewelry retailer is zeroing in on Zales, Jared, Kay Jewelers, and Blue Nile as it looks to create unique brand identities for each.

Dr. Akinwumi Adesina, chairperson of the Diamonds for Development Fund
SourcingJun 02, 2026
Leader Appointed for Botswana’s Diamonds for Development Fund

Dr. Akinwumi Adesina, a development economist, will head the fund created to help Botswana diversify its economy.

James Marks
WatchesJun 02, 2026
Watch Industry Veteran James Marks Joins Sotheby’s

Sotheby’s has appointed the former Phillips executive as its global head of private sales and retail in its watches division.

Sothebys 10-carat blue diamond, 120 carat Harry Winston diamond necklace
AuctionsJun 02, 2026
Sotheby’s to Auction 10-Carat Blue Diamond, 1960s Harry Winston Necklace

A private collection of five Paraíba tourmalines also will be up for sale at Sotheby’s High Jewelry auction in New York, scheduled for June 16.

People shopping in a jewelry store
IndependentsJun 02, 2026
State of Retail: 6 Things Retailers Should Know About Consumers Today

From Gen Z’s view of luxury to “doom spending,” these are the six consumer trends to note this year.

Zahn-Z Big Zaha Art Deco Ring
Events & AwardsJun 01, 2026
Design Atelier Brands Have a Big Night at Emotional Couture Design Awards

The show started by honoring Mildred Marcano, ended with a tearful Beth Anne Bonanno, and recognized a dozen-plus designers in between.

Rapaport's rebranding
SourcingJun 01, 2026
RapNet Rebranding as Rapaport Trade

The revamped online diamond marketplace will feature pricing intelligence and data-driven tools for more efficient buying and selling.

Gemfields emeralds
SourcingJun 01, 2026
Gemfields’ Higher-Quality Emerald Auction Achieves $26.8M

The miner said demand for higher-quality emeralds is stable, but there is notable caution in the market.

Cultus Artem River of Heaven Necklace
CollectionsMay 29, 2026
Cultus Artem’s Necklace Is the Oasis in Las Vegas’ Desert

The “River of Heaven” necklace, our Piece of the Week debuting at Couture, combines 26 salt and pepper diamonds spaced by Tahitian pearls.

Sean Dunn, Amy Greenberg, Elise Greenberg, Coleman Clark, Mitchell Clark
IndependentsMay 29, 2026
Meet the 2026 Retailer Hall of Fame Inductees

This year’s inductees include second-, third-, and fourth-generation jewelers.

Jesse Itzler
Events & AwardsMay 28, 2026
JCK Announces Jesse Itzler as 2026 Keynote Speaker

The author, speaker, and entrepreneur will give his presentation, “Spiritual Billionaire,” on Saturday morning.

JCK Rocks Nelly Graphic
Events & AwardsMay 28, 2026
JCK Rocks To Ride With Nelly

Three-time Grammy award-winning artist Nelly is set to perform at the annual event at Tao Beach on Sunday night.

A screen shot of The Clear Cut's website
MajorsMay 28, 2026
Signet Jewelers to Buy The Clear Cut

Signet will integrate the online-only, natural diamond-focused jeweler into Blue Nile, which it wants to position as a higher-end retailer.

Itä Aguaviva Tassel Pendant, Ashaha Anzar Cuff, Cultus Artem Quetzal Ring
CollectionsMay 28, 2026
Meet The 17 Newcomers to Couture’s Design Atelier

These up-and-coming jewelry brands are bringing their distinct aesthetic and unique point-of-view to the Design Atelier for the first time.

Stock image of police cars with their lights on
Events & AwardsMay 27, 2026
5 Security Tips for Las Vegas Jewelry Market Week 2026

This year, it’s what could happen outside of show hours that worries JSA Executive Vice President Scott Guginsky.

Smart Age Solutions CEO and National Jeweler columnist Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsMay 27, 2026
What Jewelers Can Learn From Luxury Fashion’s Digital Playbook

High-end fashion houses know how to emotionally connect with customers online. Retail jewelers should take note, Emmanuel Raheb writes.

Couture The Iridescence designers Aziza-Abdullah Nicole, Cindy Liebe, Danyell Roscoe, Jessica Liu, Marie Helena from Rebel Jewelry, Julia de Souza, and Xiao Wang
Events & AwardsMay 27, 2026
Couture’s ‘The Iridescence’ Will Showcase 7 Emerging Jewelry Designers

The designers are the third cohort of mentees from the show’s Belonging @ Couture mentorship program.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy