ColumnistsJan 22, 2025
On Data: How Did Independent Jewelers Fare in 2024? Sherry Smith shares data on the year gone by, including the breakdown between natural and lab-grown diamond sales.
GradingAug 23, 2018
GIA Finds Imitation Emerald Made of Layered Glass
The 3.35-carat stone had a natural beryl core; glass layers were attached to it with a “colorless cement.”
A face-up view of the imitation emerald under cross-polarized light showing the inert reaction of the outer material and interference planes that outline the beryl core (Photomicrograph by Tyler Smith, GIA)
New York—Another gem has surfaced at a lab that was not entirely what it seemed.
A 3.35-carat “emerald” submitted to the Gemological Institute of America’s New York lab turned out to be an assembled imitation gemstone composed of five layers of glass cemented to a beryl core, according to an article by Tyler Smith and Augusto Castillo in the Summer 2018 issue of Gems & Gemology.
The rectangular core was a natural beryl, the mineral species to which emerald belongs, but the crown was a single piece of glass attached to the pavilion, while the pavilion was composed of four asymmetrical glass segments glued to the core using a “colorless cement.”
The imitation stone probably took a while to create using a “laborious multistep cut-and-glue process,” GIA authors said, as indicated by the way the four glass segments in the pavilion are interlocked. 
The manufacturing of the piece started by attaching a glass segment to the beryl core. Both were then cut to create a flat surface for a second piece of glass. The second was then added, cut to allow for the third, and so forth.
After all four had been added, the assembled pavilion likely would have been polished flat to allow for the crown, which then would have been attached.
(Check out the original lab note from GIA for a diagram showing the process.)
The article also noted that while assemblages of various materials have long been used to imitate precious stones—with the most common kind using two or more pieces joined together in parallel, layered fashions—GIA researchers weren’t able to find record of another stone assembled using the process applied to this “emerald.”
RELATED CONTENT: Glued-Together Diamond Turns Up at GIAGIA said it was the first time one such assembled stone has been submitted to its New York or Carlsbad laboratories.
Researchers surmise that the imitation emerald was created relatively recently, given the fact that all its exposed surfaces are made of glass and, yet, the facet junctions are still sharp and the stone lacks wear.
“It is intriguing that an antiquated technique is updated in modern times, serving as a cautionary tale of the ingenuity counterfeiters employ,” the authors said.
More on Grading
The Latest
Policies & IssuesJan 22, 2025
Jewelers Mutual Steps Up Aid for LA Jewelry BusinessesThe company also is matching donations made to Jewelers of America and the Diamond Council of America’s Jewelers Relief Fund.
Events & AwardsJan 22, 2025
JA Seeking Nominations for Its Next ‘20 Under 40’ ClassNow in its fourth year, the program is expanding to include a list of “20 Under 40” for jewelry suppliers.
Brought to you by
3 New Year’s Resolutions for Jewelry Lovers The new year feels like a clean slate, inspiring reflection, hope, and the motivation to become better versions of ourselves.
SurveysJan 22, 2025
Holiday Sales Hit Record High, Says NRFCore retail sales during the 2024 holiday season surpassed the National Retail Federation’s forecast.
Weekly QuizJan 16, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
CollectionsJan 22, 2025
Foundrae’s New Collection Channels the Power of NowThe “Reach for Life” collection uses feather and arrow motifs to invite growth and inner curiosity.
ColumnistsJan 21, 2025
Peter Smith: Sales Training’s Dirty Little SecretPeter Smith pulls back the curtain on the often misinterpreted, and sometimes maligned, world of sales training.
Brought to you by
A Diamond Is Forever Celebrates "Forever Present" Holiday CampaignA Diamond is Forever hosted a holiday celebration in honor of their new marketing campaign, ‘Forever Present.’
TrendsJan 21, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Decadent Mocha MoussePantone’s 2025 Color of the Year takes the form of jewelry through gemstones and enamel that look just as delicious as mocha mousse.
Policies & IssuesJan 21, 2025
These Designers and Retailers Are Raising Money for LA Wildfire Relief From raffles to auctions to donations, the industry is working to aid charities in Los Angeles amid the raging wildfires.
SourcingJan 21, 2025
Diamonds Do Good Adds 2 Board MembersJulia Hackman Chafé and Monica Elias have joined the organization’s board of directors.
FinancialsJan 17, 2025
Richemont’s Jewelry Sales Rise 14% in Holiday QuarterThe company, which owns Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, had a record Q3, with sales topping $6 billion.
CollectionsJan 17, 2025
Piece of the Week: Picchiotti’s Transformable ‘Classic Blue and Green’ NecklaceThe necklace features a sapphire drop weighing more than 9 carats that detaches to transform into a ring.
MajorsJan 17, 2025
Tiffany & Co., CFDA Name First Winner of Jewelry Designer AwardJameel Mohammed, founder of Afrofuturist brand Khiry, will receive a cash prize and a one-year paid fellowship with Tiffany & Co.
IndependentsJan 16, 2025
Lux Bond & Green to Open Sixth LocationThe 127-year-old jeweler is planning to open a new store in Mystic, Connecticut.
WatchesJan 16, 2025
Timex Launches Collection of National Park WatchesThe watches’ dials feature artwork celebrating the vibrant energy and unique landscapes of six of America’s national parks.
AuctionsJan 16, 2025
Elizabeth Taylor’s Diamond Line Bracelet Going up for Auction Offered by U.K. auction house Woolley & Wallis, the yellow diamond bracelet was a gift from Taylor’s good friend Michael Jackson.
Events & AwardsJan 16, 2025
JCK Las Vegas 2025 Open for RegistrationThe jewelry trade show returns to The Venetian Expo and The Venetian Resort in Las Vegas from June 6 to 9.
EditorsJan 15, 2025
The Jewelry I’d Bid On in Christie’s Iris Apfel AuctionAssociate Editor Natalie Francisco highlights her favorite fashion jewelry pieces from the upcoming “Unapologetically Iris” auction.
MajorsJan 15, 2025
Macy’s to Close 66 Stores as Part of Turnaround StrategyThe closures are part of the retailer’s plan to close 150 locations over a three-year period.
Policies & IssuesJan 15, 2025
JVC Debuts Guide to Americans with Disabilities Act ComplianceThe online guide is available for free and written with the jewelry industry in mind.
Events & AwardsJan 15, 2025
Jose Hess Design Awards Open for SubmissionsThe awards honor the late Jose Hess, a founding member of AJDC and an award-winning jewelry designer.
ColumnistsJan 14, 2025
Jules Kim: Building Bridges Between Creators and IndustryIn this special op-ed, designer Jules Kim calls on big brands to collaborate with independent creators instead of copying their designs.
FinancialsJan 14, 2025
Signet Jewelers Lowers Q4 Guidance After Holiday Sales Fall ShortThe peak selling days leading up to Christmas did not meet the jewelry retailer’s expectations.
MajorsJan 14, 2025
Edouard Schneider Joins Messika as Chief Brand OfficerSchneider brings over 20 years of luxury and fashion industry experience to his role as a key member of the brand’s global leadership team.
SourcingJan 13, 2025
Zambia Reinstates 15% Export Duty on Precious Gemstones, Shocking GemfieldsGemfields said the Zambian government revoked the 2019 suspension of the tax with no warning.
TechnologyJan 13, 2025
Ultrahuman Unveils Luxury Smart RingWith versions in 18-karat gold and platinum, the wearables company is blending health technology and fine jewelry.
