Our Pieces of the Week honor the 2026 nominees for the Gem Award for Jewelry Design, Silvia Furmanovich, Cece Fein-Hughes, and Catherine Sarr.
Jean-Paul Tolkowsky’s Diamond Co. Files for Bankruptcy in US
Exelco North America Inc., Diamond Trading USA, Exelco NV and FTK Worldwide Manufacturing BVBA all filed for Chapter 11.
Wilmington, Del.--Exelco NV, the diamond company co-owned by master cutter Jean-Paul Tolkowsky, has filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection.
Antwerp-based Exelco NV and FTK Worldwide Manufacturing BVBA, along with U.S.-based affiliates Exelco North America and Ideal Diamond Trading USA, filed on Sept. 26 in U.S. Bankruptcy Court in Delaware, listing up to $100 million in liabilities, court papers show.
The filing follows Exelco losing its status as a De Beers sightholder in April and lender KBC Group NV seizing goods from Exelco’s office in Antwerp over the summer in an effort to recover some of the money it’s owed.
An Antwerp court later ruled that KBC had to return the goods because Exelco was on track to repay its loans, but the company’s U.S. bankruptcy filing shows that the bank isn’t giving up.
According to court documents, Exelco originally filed the rough equivalent of Chapter 11 in Belgium but then withdrew that and filed in the United States, informing KBC of what it had done.
Despite this, court documents state, KBC continued to pursue legal action in Belgium that would allow it to seize and liquidate Exelco NV’s assets.
Exelco filed a motion for a temporary restraining order, invoking protections afforded under U.S. bankruptcy to block KBC’s actions overseas.
A U.S. bankruptcy court judge granted the TRO Friday, in an order that states in part that KBC is enjoined from “seeking to seize and/or liquidate [Exelco’s] assets and from further attempts to use the Act on the Continuity of Enterprises in Belgium or other legal proceedings to seize and/or liquidate [Exelco’s] assets. KBC is hereby directed to immediately withdraw all pending requests for relief against the debtors or their assets in the Antwerp Commercial Court (and any other court).”
A spokesperson for KBC said the company cannot comment on the case, as it is a pending legal issue involving a client.
Neither Exelco nor the attorney listed as representing it in the case, Wilmington, Delaware-based Michael R. Nestor, responded to request for comment.
Documents filed in U.S. Bankruptcy Court list Exelco NV’s creditors as numbering between 50 and 99, and puts its assets at $10 to $50 million.
According to a filing made by the company in Belgium and cited by Bloomberg, among the company’s biggest creditors are KBC and another former diamond industry lender, Standard Chartered Plc, which are owed $15 million and $35 million, respectively.
The largest unsecured creditors include a number of
Tolkowsky, a member of the family of famous diamond cutters, started Exelco in 1993 with Leon and Lior Kunstler.
The company is a mid-stream supplier of diamonds, buying rough from miners and then cutting, polishing and/or setting the stones and selling them to retail jewelers.
Among the company’s clients is Signet Jewelers Ltd., which carries Tolkowsky-branded collections at its Kay Jewelers and Jared the Galleria of Jewelry chains.
The Latest

The 24-piece watch collection is set to debut in spring 2027.

The reopening of the Waldorf Astoria means a homecoming for the industry group’s annual event, which will take place Saturday.

Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.

McCormack looked to the 19th century’s “golden age” of astronomy when designing her new celestial-themed collection.


Nelson will be honored as the inaugural grant winner at the Gem Awards gala on Friday.

The new smart design software allows jewelers to configure, price, and confirm a custom engagement ring in real time for in-store customers.

With refreshed branding, a new website, updated courses, and a pathway for growth, DCA is dedicated to supporting retail staff development.

The MJSA Education Foundation’s scholarships support students pursuing jewelry careers.

The largest white diamond to come to market in the U.K. in more than a decade, the VVS1, I-color stone is expected to top $1 million.

Skelly shares her plans for reimagining the fine jewelry retailer she re-acquired after it faltered last year.

The collection takes inspiration from the emotional space between people, moments, and experiences.

In 2026, the jewelry retailer is celebrating a milestone only a small percentage of family-owned businesses survive to see.

The group of jewelers held a jewelry raffle in support of the Children’s Hospital of Richmond at VCU.

The jewelry giant released preliminary results for the fourth quarter and full year on Monday, with final results slated to come next week.

The retailer also gave an update on its vendor partnerships.

The award-winning actress is the “epitome of modern allure,” the brand said.

The “Bloom” collection draws from the flower power movement of the 1960s and ‘70s with inlay pendants offered in eight colorways.

The unique piece was one of the custom works offered at the foundation's recent silent art auction, which garnered nearly $15,000 in total.

Bulgari named Gyllenhaal as its brand ambassador for his embodiment of artistic depth, intellectual curiosity, and warmth.

Awards were given to four students, one apprentice, and an emerging jeweler.

The top jewelry lot of the late model’s estate sale, hosted by John Moran Auctioneers, was an Oscar Heyman & Brothers for Cartier necklace.

Moses, who started at GIA’s Santa Monica lab in 1976, will leave the Gemological Institute of America in May.

Increased competition, falling lab-grown diamond and moissanite prices, and the rising cost of gold took a toll on the moissanite maker.

The earrings, our Piece of the Week, feature pink tourmalines as planets orbiting around an aquamarine center set in 18-karat rose gold.

“The Price of Freedom” campaign video for International Women’s Day confronts the quiet violence of financial control.

Also, a federal judge has ordered that companies that paid tariffs implemented under the IEEPA are entitled to refunds.





















