Sourcing

Steady Colored Gemstone Demand Gives Gemfields a Boost

SourcingSep 27, 2016

Steady Colored Gemstone Demand Gives Gemfields a Boost

The colored stone miner said revenue increased 13 percent to $193.1 million while net profit after taxes nearly doubled.

20160927_Gemfields.jpg
Production of rough emerald and beryl from the Kagem mine remained essentially flat this year at 30 million carats. Gemfields aims to increase production at the site to 40 million carats over the next few years.

London--Gemfields PLC reported Monday that revenue rose 13 percent in fiscal year ended June 30 as demand for colored stones remains strong and it continues its marketing push.

Net profit after taxes soared 91 percent year-over-year to $23.5 million.

At the Kagem mine in Zambia, production of rough emerald and beryl remained essentially flat this year at 30 million carats. The average grade also stayed level at about 241 carats per ton.

Operating costs from Kagem were up 6 percent to $47.3 million from increased exploration activities and commencing continued waste stripping at one of the pits, while revenue from the four auctions of material mined at the site held throughout the year totaled $101.2 million.

Meanwhile, production at the Montepuez ruby mine in Mozambique was up from 8.4 million carats last year to 10.3 million carats in 2016, a 23 percent increase that exceeded the company’s initial guidance for the mine.

A higher grade also was achieved during the full year, at 35 carats per ton, compared with 26 million carats in 2015. Gemfields also reported a 68 percent increase in the recovery of higher-quality rubies.

Operating costs were also up at Montepuez, increasing 21 percent to $26.2 million in 2016.

Gemfields held two auctions during the 2015-2016 year to sell rubies and corundum. They sold an average of 95 percent by weight between them, generating revenues of $73.1 million, with an average per-carat price of $45.50.

The company has said it plans to expand both of these operations. It secured $65 million in financing in July, the majority of which will be used to increase annual production at the Montepuez mine to approximately 20 million carats within the next three years.

This joined an existing revolving credit facility of $30 million with Barclays Bank in Zambia for Kagem, to aid in the expansion to more than 40 million carats over the next three years.

Fabergé, which Gemfields acquired in 2013, saw revenue increase 33 percent to $11.8 million as it continued to expand its global presence and number of agreements with multi-brand retail partners.

The brand is focused on its medium-term goal of becoming a standalone profitable business within the company. As of June 30, its products were available in 14 countries, with the total number of Faberge outlets having increased from 20 to 32 throughout the fiscal year.

Gemfields is leveraging the luxury brand to help drive demand

and increase consumer awareness for color by launching a new colored stone bridal line.


A shot from the “Ruby Inspired Story” campaign for the motif of “protection” featuring Indian actress Aditi Rao Hydari

The company also has been putting a lot of emphasis on its marketing efforts this year to drive consumer demand for color in general.

This includes its global marketing campaign to drive demand for rubies. Launched in late June, “Ruby Inspired Stories” is comprised of a triptych of films featuring three up-and-coming talents that explore the hidden meaning behind the gemstone (passion, protection and prosperity).

Gemfields also partnered with New York Fashion Week on multi-platform initiatives and with renowned New York retailer Bergdorf Goodman to celebrate its renovated jewelry salon with 50 pieces of jewelry from designers set with gemstones from Gemfields’ mines.

CEO Ian Harebottle noted in the company’s financial results that they continue to see opportunities for new and existing markets for “further price escalation;” Gemfields has a number of projects in the works to increase business going forward.

Operations commenced at the Dogogo south block in Ethiopia to provide the company with another supply of emeralds. And it moved into the next phase of development on its sapphire project in Sri Lanka, putting a call out to local mining companies to create a supply chain in the country.

In its fiscal year results, Gemfields also provided an update on its projects in Colombia.

In September 2015, the company announced the binding-but-conditional agreement to acquire controlling interests in two emerald projects.

But the acquisition of a 70 percent interest in the Coscuez emerald mine in the Boyacá state is being held up by a dispute between the current owners of the license and the Colombian government. Initially, Gemfields thought that this would be settled in March, but discussions are ongoing. They are expected to be resolved in the second quarter of the 2016-2017 fiscal year.

The second project includes licenses and contracts covering approximately 20,000 hectares (77 square miles) in the Boyacá state and other areas. Eight of the new license applications and assignments to existing contracts have been approved and issued; the remaining currently are being reviewed by the Colombian Mining Agency.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Mikimoto L'éclat high jewelry brooch
SurveysJul 27, 2026
Jewelry Leads Luxury Market Amid Stabilization, Bain Says

Bain & Company delved into the trends shaping the luxury market, the impact of AI, and more in its recent study.

Stock image of shipping containers in port
Policies & IssuesJul 24, 2026
New Trump Tariffs: What They Mean for Jewelry

The new sweeping slate of tariffs impacts 60 countries, including India, China, Thailand, Hong Kong, and the United Arab Emirates.

Jorge Adeler Gods & Heroes coin pendant
TrendsJul 24, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Ode to ‘The Odyssey’

From coin pendants to diamond shields, these old world-inspired jewels are the perfect accessory for an epic journey.

Brought-To-By-Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center Stage

Colored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.

Courtney Leidy Amethyst Silk Cord Pendant
TrendsJul 24, 2026
Courtney Leidy’s Silk Cord Pendants Center Unexpected Pairings

Our Piece of the Week pairs a checkerboard-cut amethyst with an ivy green silk cord.

Weekly QuizJul 23, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
NJ Article image.png
PodcastsJul 23, 2026
Episode 7: Reinhold Jewelers on the Power of Relationships

Mildred Marcano Abrams and Yael Reinhold join the podcast to talk community connections, holiday plans, and preserving Reinhold’s legacy.

Silvia Furmanovich Enchapado en Tamo Wooden Wheat Straw Sun Earrings
CollectionsJul 23, 2026
Silvia Furmanovich’s New Collection Travels Back to the 1920s

“Art Deco” fuses ancestral techniques, rare materials, and modern perspectives as a tribute to the optimism and curiosity of the movement.

DCA-NJ-article-1872x1052-060826.jpg
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce Solutions

DCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.

Sissy’s Log Cabin Saracen Casino
IndependentsJul 23, 2026
Sissy's Log Cabin Opens Casino Store

The jeweler’s newest store is inside Arkansas’ Saracen Casino Resort.

Kate Spade New York watches
WatchesJul 23, 2026
Movado Inks Licensing Deal With Kate Spade New York

The watch company will design, manufacture, and distribute Kate Spade New York watches.

Stock photo of loose polished diamonds
Policies & IssuesJul 22, 2026
Trump to Put 50% Tariff on Canadian Goods

The higher tax is set to go into effect in August and will apply to loose polished diamonds as well as precious and base metals jewelry.

Monica Rich Kosann Enchanted Garden Cherry Necklace
CollectionsJul 22, 2026
Monica Rich Kosann’s High Jewelry Is Fruitful

The “Enchanted Garden” series features a cherry, lemon, and pear that each hold a little secret inside.

Liljenquist new Rolex boutique McLean Virginia
IndependentsJul 22, 2026
Liljenquist Beckstead Opens Rolex New Boutique

It’s located in Tysons Galleria, an upscale shopping center in the Washington, D.C., metro area.

NY Now exhibitor booth
Events & AwardsJul 22, 2026
NY Now Returns in August Under New Ownership

The show, recently acquired by Rockview Management Group, will be held at New York City’s Javits Center from Aug. 2-4.

The Retail Smith Principal Partner and National Jeweler columnist Sherry Smith
ColumnistsJul 21, 2026
Sherry Smith: Shattering the Illusion of the ‘Either/Or’ Diamond Market

Smith offers retailers guidance on creating an environment where natural and lab-grown diamonds can both thrive.

Emerald logo
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2026
Apollo Funds Completes Emerald Acquisition

Former Emerald President and CEO Hervé Sedky has transitioned to the role of senior advisor.

Graff Seraphina Brooch and Lina Pendant
CollectionsJul 21, 2026
Graff’s New Butterfly High Jewelry Brooches Metamorphosize

The 12-piece capsule collection transforms from brooches to pendants.

Rough diamonds from De Beers’ Gahcho Kue mine in Canada
SourcingJul 21, 2026
Anglo Reportedly Selects Gareth Penny’s Consortium as Top Bidder for De Beers

A Botswana government official told lawmakers Anglo has selected The Global Diamond Consortium, an entity chaired by Penny, to buy De Beers.

Stock image of shipping containers
Policies & IssuesJul 20, 2026
Tariffs on Brazil to Increase But Rough Gemstones Exempt

The new tariff, imposed after a Trump administration study, is 25 percent and will stack on top of existing tariffs.

Vhernier Freccia High Jewelry Necklace
CollectionsJul 20, 2026
Vhernier Transforms ‘Freccia’ Collection Into High Jewelry

The collection from 2014 has been reinterpreted into high jewelry with its signature triangular-shaped elements.

Krista Collins Walters
MajorsJul 20, 2026
Krista Collins Walters Promoted to Publisher of Instore

She will also take on the role of vice president of jewelry for SmartWork Media, a newly created position.

Attendees at the Jewelry Symposium
Events & AwardsJul 20, 2026
TJS Accepting Speaker Proposals for 2027 Event

Organizers are looking for presentations on topics like manufacturing, technology and research, bench work, gemstones, and sustainability.

HOWL Frida Venetian Glass Collar
CollectionsJul 17, 2026
HOWL Taps Shailene Woodley for ‘Home Sweet Home’ Campaign

Woodley is seen in the campaign wearing our Piece of the Week, the “Frida” collar featuring 13 pieces of hand-carved Venetian glass.

A diamond ring in a jewelry box
SourcingJul 17, 2026
U.K. Woman Pays £5 for £15K Diamond Ring at Car Boot Sale

A WeBuyVintage jewelry expert uncovered how much the flea market find was actually worth.

Unveiling Rarities
SourcingJul 17, 2026
Diamond Dealer Jeff Pancis Pens Memoir

The founder of natural colored diamond wholesaler Pancis Gems shares stories from his five decades in the industry.

Gem Awards 2027 Logo
Events & AwardsJul 17, 2026
Gem Awards Opens 2027 Nomination Period

Submissions for the milestone 25th annual Gem Awards will be accepted across three categories from now through July 31.

Guzema Founder and Creative Director Valeriya Guzema and Co-Owner and CEO Mariana Lenha
EditorsJul 16, 2026
Q&A: Guzema’s Co-Owners On Its US Expansion, 10-Year Anniversary

Valeriya Guzema and Mariana Lenha look back on the last decade and discuss the Ukrainian brand’s first U.S. store.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy