Sourcing

Steady Colored Gemstone Demand Gives Gemfields a Boost

SourcingSep 27, 2016

Steady Colored Gemstone Demand Gives Gemfields a Boost

The colored stone miner said revenue increased 13 percent to $193.1 million while net profit after taxes nearly doubled.

20160927_Gemfields.jpg
Production of rough emerald and beryl from the Kagem mine remained essentially flat this year at 30 million carats. Gemfields aims to increase production at the site to 40 million carats over the next few years.

London--Gemfields PLC reported Monday that revenue rose 13 percent in fiscal year ended June 30 as demand for colored stones remains strong and it continues its marketing push.

Net profit after taxes soared 91 percent year-over-year to $23.5 million.

At the Kagem mine in Zambia, production of rough emerald and beryl remained essentially flat this year at 30 million carats. The average grade also stayed level at about 241 carats per ton.

Operating costs from Kagem were up 6 percent to $47.3 million from increased exploration activities and commencing continued waste stripping at one of the pits, while revenue from the four auctions of material mined at the site held throughout the year totaled $101.2 million.

Meanwhile, production at the Montepuez ruby mine in Mozambique was up from 8.4 million carats last year to 10.3 million carats in 2016, a 23 percent increase that exceeded the company’s initial guidance for the mine.

A higher grade also was achieved during the full year, at 35 carats per ton, compared with 26 million carats in 2015. Gemfields also reported a 68 percent increase in the recovery of higher-quality rubies.

Operating costs were also up at Montepuez, increasing 21 percent to $26.2 million in 2016.

Gemfields held two auctions during the 2015-2016 year to sell rubies and corundum. They sold an average of 95 percent by weight between them, generating revenues of $73.1 million, with an average per-carat price of $45.50.

The company has said it plans to expand both of these operations. It secured $65 million in financing in July, the majority of which will be used to increase annual production at the Montepuez mine to approximately 20 million carats within the next three years.

This joined an existing revolving credit facility of $30 million with Barclays Bank in Zambia for Kagem, to aid in the expansion to more than 40 million carats over the next three years.

Fabergé, which Gemfields acquired in 2013, saw revenue increase 33 percent to $11.8 million as it continued to expand its global presence and number of agreements with multi-brand retail partners.

The brand is focused on its medium-term goal of becoming a standalone profitable business within the company. As of June 30, its products were available in 14 countries, with the total number of Faberge outlets having increased from 20 to 32 throughout the fiscal year.

Gemfields is leveraging the luxury brand to help drive demand

and increase consumer awareness for color by launching a new colored stone bridal line.


A shot from the “Ruby Inspired Story” campaign for the motif of “protection” featuring Indian actress Aditi Rao Hydari

The company also has been putting a lot of emphasis on its marketing efforts this year to drive consumer demand for color in general.

This includes its global marketing campaign to drive demand for rubies. Launched in late June, “Ruby Inspired Stories” is comprised of a triptych of films featuring three up-and-coming talents that explore the hidden meaning behind the gemstone (passion, protection and prosperity).

Gemfields also partnered with New York Fashion Week on multi-platform initiatives and with renowned New York retailer Bergdorf Goodman to celebrate its renovated jewelry salon with 50 pieces of jewelry from designers set with gemstones from Gemfields’ mines.

CEO Ian Harebottle noted in the company’s financial results that they continue to see opportunities for new and existing markets for “further price escalation;” Gemfields has a number of projects in the works to increase business going forward.

Operations commenced at the Dogogo south block in Ethiopia to provide the company with another supply of emeralds. And it moved into the next phase of development on its sapphire project in Sri Lanka, putting a call out to local mining companies to create a supply chain in the country.

In its fiscal year results, Gemfields also provided an update on its projects in Colombia.

In September 2015, the company announced the binding-but-conditional agreement to acquire controlling interests in two emerald projects.

But the acquisition of a 70 percent interest in the Coscuez emerald mine in the Boyacá state is being held up by a dispute between the current owners of the license and the Colombian government. Initially, Gemfields thought that this would be settled in March, but discussions are ongoing. They are expected to be resolved in the second quarter of the 2016-2017 fiscal year.

The second project includes licenses and contracts covering approximately 20,000 hectares (77 square miles) in the Boyacá state and other areas. Eight of the new license applications and assignments to existing contracts have been approved and issued; the remaining currently are being reviewed by the Colombian Mining Agency.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Stock image of gavel
CrimeDec 15, 2025
Men Receive Life Sentences in Home Invasion Murder of Jeweler

Carlos Jose Hernandez and Joshua Zuazo were sentenced to life without the possibility of parole in the 2024 murder of Hussein “Sam” Murray.

Eduard Stefanescu, left, and Sara Yood, right
Policies & IssuesDec 15, 2025
Sara Yood Named Co-Chair of RJC Standards Committee

Yood will serve alongside Eduard Stefanescu, the sustainability manager for C.Hafner, a precious metals refiner in Germany.

MS Rau Aspen rendering
IndependentsDec 15, 2025
M.S. Rau to Open Store in Aspen

The New Orleans jeweler is also hosting pop-up jewelry boutiques in New York City and Dallas.

Recipients Collage 2025 - NJ (1872 x 1050 px) (1872 x 1052 px).png
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow Today

How Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.

Tiffany & Co. Paraíba tourmaline jewelry
AuctionsDec 12, 2025
13.54-Carat Paraíba Tourmaline Sets Records at Christie’s

Set in a Tiffany & Co. necklace, it sold for $4.2 million, the highest price and price per carat paid for a Paraíba tourmaline at auction.

Weekly QuizDec 11, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
David Webb holiday window
MajorsDec 12, 2025
David Webb Reveals Ice-Cold Holiday Window Display

The jeweler’s “Deep Freeze” display showcases its iconic jewelry designs frozen in a vintage icebox.

Oscar Heyman Yellow Green Sphene and Diamond Ring
CollectionsDec 12, 2025
Piece of the Week: Oscar Heyman’s Sphene Ring

Take luxury gifting to new heights this holiday season with the jeweler’s showstopping 12-carat sphene ring.

roseco-catalog.png
Brought to you by
Roseco Releases New Full-Line Catalog

Roseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.

IGI Design Contest Graphic
Events & AwardsDec 12, 2025
IGI Jewelry Design Contest Now Accepting Submissions

This year's theme is “Unveiling the Depths of the Ocean.”

Jacquie Aiche Alien Heart Eye Inlay Necklace, Cicada Dragonfly Brooch, Harkness After the Rain Earrings
TrendsDec 11, 2025
Pinterest 2026 Trend Report: Brooches, Bold Gold, Cool Blue

In its annual report, Pinterest noted an increase in searches for brooches, heirloom jewelry, and ‘80s luxury.

GIA new colored stone report
GradingDec 11, 2025
GIA to Offer Origin Determination for 3 More Gemstones

Starting Jan. 1, customers can request the service for opal, peridot, and demantoid garnet.

Day’s Jewelers Salem New Hampshire store exterior
IndependentsDec 11, 2025
Look Inside Day’s Jewelers’ Ninth Store

The 111-year-old retailer celebrated the opening of its new location in Salem, New Hampshire, which is its third store in the state.

Americas Gold Chain Catalog Volume 3
MajorsDec 11, 2025
Americas Gold Releases New Gold Chain Catalog

The new catalog features its most popular chains as well as new styles.

F.P. Journe FFC prototype
AuctionsDec 10, 2025
Francis Ford Coppola’s Watch Sells for $10.8M

The filmmaker’s personal F.P. Journe “FFC” prototype was the star of Phillips’ recent record-setting watch auction in New York.

Rolex Miami store
WatchesDec 10, 2025
There’s A New Rolex Boutique in Miami

The new location in the Design District pays homage to Miami’s Art Deco heritage and its connection to the ocean.

Stock image of consumers shopping in the winter
SurveysDec 10, 2025
Consumer Confidence Drops in November

Inflations, tariffs, and politics—including the government shutdown—were among consumers’ top concerns last month.

Silas Smith and his Responsible Design Challenge Winning Pendant
Events & AwardsDec 10, 2025
MJSA Names 2025 Responsible Design Challenge Winner

Silas Smith of Meridian Metalworks won the challenge with his pendant that blends Australian and American landscapes.

Sothebys orangy pink The Desert Rose diamond
AuctionsDec 09, 2025
‘Desert Rose’ Diamond Sells for $8.8M in Abu Dhabi

The sale of the 31.68-carat, sunset-hued stone was part of Sotheby’s first series of events and auctions in Abu Dhabi.

National Jeweler columnist and Smart Age Solutions CEO Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsDec 09, 2025
Holiday Sales Happen in December, Most Decisions Don’t

Most customers who walk into your store this month have made up their minds. Your job is to validate their choice, Emmanuel Raheb writes.

Guzema Once Upon a Time Collection Campaign
TrendsDec 09, 2025
‘Once Upon a Time,’ Guzema Debuted Its Holiday Collection

The collection features characters and motifs from Ukrainian folklore, including an enchanted mirror and a magic egg.

Gemvision by Stuller MatrixGold 3.11
TechnologyDec 09, 2025
Gemvision Releases Updated MatrixGold

MatrixGold 3.11, the newest version of the jewelry design program, offers more flexibility, precision, and creative control.

Sign at the JA New York jewelry trade show
Events & AwardsDec 09, 2025
MJSA Showcase Pavilion Returning to JA New York

The pavilion will be part of the 2026 JA New York Spring show, scheduled for March 15 to 17.

Juell Kadet, former executive vice president of Rogers & Hollands
MajorsDec 08, 2025
Juell Kadet, a ‘Lifelong Pillar’ of Rogers & Hollands, Dies at 96

Kadet, a 1994 National Jeweler Retailer Hall of Fame inductee, helped grow the family-owned retailer in the Chicago area and beyond.

Lumia 2 smart earrings
TechnologyDec 08, 2025
You’ve Heard of Smart Watches and Rings; Meet Smart Earrings

Billed as the world’s smallest wearable, Lumia Health’s new smart earrings have a health tracker subtly embedded in the back.

Lionheart Wildflower Double Cocktail Ring
TrendsDec 08, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Celebrating December’s Birthstones

Don’t let those with December birthdays feel blue. Help them celebrate their month with blue zircon, turquoise, and tanzanite.

Robinson Pelham Tsar Star Earrings in Blaze
CollectionsDec 05, 2025
Piece of the Week: Robinson Pelham’s ‘Tsar Star’ Earrings

The new pink sapphire version of the piece dances with its wearer in the brand’s “Icons After Dark” holiday campaign.

Pantone 11-4201 Cloud Dancer
TrendsDec 05, 2025
Pantone’s Color of the Year for 2026 Is … White

A choice that’s generated a lot of commentary, Pantone says “Cloud Dancer” marks a fresh start and encourages relaxation and creativity.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy