Cohen discusses the evolution of Citizen’s light-powered technology, the brand’s cross-generational appeal, and tariffs.
Baselworld 2017 Opens with 13% Fewer Exhibitors
The message from executives who spoke at the Baselworld opening press conference on Wednesday was clear: We know the situation is bad, and we don’t really want to talk about it.

Basel, Switzerland--The message from executives who spoke at the Baselworld opening press conference on Wednesday was clear: We know the situation is bad, and we don’t really want to talk about it.
The annual watch and jewelry trade show kicks off in Switzerland amid a backdrop of lagging watch sales and geopolitical and economic uncertainties.
Swiss watch exports dropped 10 percent in value terms last year following a 3 percent decline in 2015. So far this year, they’re down 8 percent, according to figures from the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry.
Baselworld has seen attendance slide for the past three years, and the number of exhibitors at this year’s show is down 13 percent year-over-year, from 1,500 to 1,300.
Bremont and Shinola are among the notable watch companies absent from this year’s fair, as are Kering Group brands Girard-Perregaux and Ulysee Nardin, both of which exhibited at SIHH earlier this year.
But rather than focusing on the struggles the industry is facing, show organizers opted to put a positive spin on the opening of Baselworld 2017 and the changes that have been made to the show.
“There is no need to dwell at length on the past 12 months,” Baselworld Managing Director Sylvie Ritter said at Wednesday’s pre-show press conference.
She said fair organizers are instead looking to the future and recognize that Baselworld “needs to be transformed to reflect the world market.”
Transformations undertaken this year include a new space in Hall 1 for independent watchmakers and a Design Lab to showcase more unique, avant-garde pieces.
Ritter and François Thiébaud, president of the Swiss Exhibitors Committee, also mentioned several times the show’s focus on “quality over quantity” and its rejection of a number of potential exhibitors that were “not in line” with the show’s concept and did not meet its criteria, though they declined to outline specifics when asked by journalists.
Thiébaud said they rejected exhibitors “without legitimacy,” later clarifying his remarks to state that he meant fashion brands that treated watches like an accessory, not companies that produce smartwatches.
“I believe these people did not obtain the (sales) results they had planned and have given up producing such products. It (the show’s rejection of exhibitors) has nothing to do with smartwatches or connected watches,” he said.
Though show organizers acknowledged the need for Baselworld to evolve, the press conference became tense when they were asked about the possibility of
“It would be totally absurd to have Baselworld only every two years,” Thiébaud said.
Ritter also rejected both ideas, noting that the purpose of Baselworld is to introduce the “novelties” in watch and jewelry making each year, in the spring in Basel.
This year marks the 100th anniversary of the show that gave birth to Baselworld.
The first Basler Mustermesse (sample fair) took place in April 1917 and featured exhibitors from five different Swiss industries: cheese making, clock and watchmaking, textiles, farming, and machine tools.
The show eventually came to include jewelry as well, and in 1984, watches and jewelry split from the broader fair to become their own show.
Ritter said at Wednesday’s press conference that no special events are planned to mark the anniversary because organizers did not want a celebration to “disturb” the business being done at show.
Baselworld 2017 begins today and continues through Thursday, March 30.
The Latest


“Essentially Human: On Sales and Salespeople" reveals the underlying human traits and behaviors of the most successful sales professionals.

The collection features symbols of love, luck, and light, based on the story of Queen Cassandane and Cyrus the Great of Persia.

You deserve to know what you are selling–to protect your customers as well as your business and your reputation.

After 28 years with JCK, the veteran industry journalist is launching his own publication on Substack called The Jewelry Wire.


Wiley said the project will give scientists worldwide access to the American Museum of Natural’s History renowned mineral collection.

The “Flower Puff” collection looks to beaded flower friendship bracelets from childhood, turning the silhouette into nostalgic fine jewelry.

Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.

Set for April 2, the webinar will discuss how the jewelry industry can address the workforce gap.

Bayer, founder of Lisa Bayer Designs, is remembered as “a bright light in every room.”

The highest-grossing lot was a Tiffany & Co. ring set with a flawless, emerald-cut diamond of 10 carats.

The next three editions of AGTA GemFair Tucson will feature a five-day show that includes Sunday.

Former Sotheby’s executive Tom Heap has taken on the London-based role.

The group of women allegedly robbed two Catbird stores and one Gorjana location on the afternoon of March 9.

Movado CEO Efraim Grinberg noted continued strength in the fashion watch and accessible luxury segments in the U.S.

After celebrating 25 years in 2025, the campaign marks a new chapter for the jewelry brand with the message that “Identity Creates Value.”

Couture and Time to Watches announced the watch brands, from big names to independents, attendees will see at the show.

Plus, why Saks Global’s bankruptcy may have given Bloomingdale’s an edge.

The flawless, Type IIa stone is estimated to achieve up to $2.8 million at the auction house’s high jewelry sale in April.

Costume designer Kate Hawley wore three archival Tiffany & Co. brooches, our Pieces of the Week, while accepting her first Oscar.

The jewelry retailer announced changes to its store network and brand portfolio during its fourth-quarter earnings call.

From a weaker labor market to inflation, NRF Chief Economist Mark Mathews gave insight on what retailers can expect this year.

The historic stone, which sold at Elmwood’s in London, is the largest white diamond to be offered on the U.K. market in more than a decade.

Three-time Grammy award-winning artist Nelly is set to perform at the annual event at Tao Beach in Las Vegas on May 31.

The model and fashion editor’s gold evening bags were the top lots at the London sale, going for more than $25,000 each.

Fresh off winning the David Yurman Gem Awards Grant, Nelson discusses the ring that launched his career and his plans for the future.

The “stunning” Type IIb stone was found via x-ray technology at its Karowe mine in Botswana.




















