Auctions

‘A Tsar’s Treasure’ Fetches $2.9M at Sotheby’s Jewelry Sale

AuctionsNov 19, 2024

‘A Tsar’s Treasure’ Fetches $2.9M at Sotheby’s Jewelry Sale

A collection of pieces owned by Ferdinand I, the first king of modern Bulgaria, and his family, blew away estimates in Geneva last week.

Tsar Ferdinand I Bulgaria colored diamond pin and emerald diamond ring
Every lot found a buyer at Sotheby’s recent auction featuring jewelry that belonged to Tsar Ferdinand I, as well as heirlooms from his mother and pieces passed down through members of his immediate lineage. The highest-grossing lot was the former ruler’s personal colored diamond pin (left) followed by an emerald and diamond ring (right) that belonged to his daughter.
Geneva—At Sotheby’s recent white-glove jewelry sale in Geneva, a collection of jewelry owned by Ferdinand I, the first king of modern Bulgaria, and his family achieved $2.9 million.

The 114-lot offering, “A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria (1861-1948),” comprised pieces that span a century and were part of the history of the family of Tsar Ferdinand of Saxe-Coborg-Gotha. The collection was estimated to fetch a total of $1.2 million to $1.8 million.

Having not been seen publicly in nearly a century, the pieces made their auction debut during Sotheby’s Nov. 13 auction comprising a Magnificent Jewels sale and a multi-part Royal & Noble Jewels sale, which included the offering of an 18th-century diamond necklace with potential ties to Marie-Antoinette.

“A Tsar’s Treasure” was offered in Royal & Noble Jewels Part 1.

The top lot was a yellow gold tie pin that once belonged to Ferdinand, who the auction house described as a man of exquisite, refined taste.

Tsar Ferdinand’s yellow gold tie pin
Tsar Ferdinand’s yellow gold tie pin features a 2.08-carat pear-shaped fancy gray-blue diamond; a 0.65-carat fancy pink diamond; a 0.52-carat fancy green diamond; a 0.47-carat fancy deep brown-orange diamond; and a 0.13-carat fancy intense green-yellow diamond.


Featuring a fleur-de-lis motif set with colored diamonds, the piece was made in the early 20th century, and it sold for $585,897, within its estimate of $500,000 to $700,000.

The second highest-grossing lot was an emerald and diamond ring that sold for $313,387, blowing past its pre-sale estimate of about $40,000 to $57,000.

emerald and diamond ring
A ring set with a step-cut emerald flanked by pear-shaped diamonds, with shoulders accented by old cushion-shaped, circular-cut and rose diamonds

Giovanna of Savoy, the widow of Ferdinand I’s son and successor Tsar Boris III, gifted this ring to her sister-in-law Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria (1898-1985). 

The Tsarina likely received the ring from her sister Mafalda of Savoy, Landgravine of Hesse-Kassel (1902-1944), a member of the Italian royal family whose staunch opposition to fascism led to her death in a concentration camp.

Another notable sale was that of a cat’s eye chrysoberyl and diamond neck badge of the Order of the Golden Fleece.

The early 20th century piece sold for $79,028, just under ten times the high end of its estimate, about $6,000 to $8,000.

Ferdinand I, Tsar of Bulgaria Order of the Golden Fleece
Ferdinand I, Tsar of Bulgaria, wearing the decoration of the Order of the Golden Fleece (left) and a close-up of the piece (right) (Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s auction catalog)


Ferdinand I was elected prince of Bulgaria in 1887, and in 1908, he assumed the title of Tsar after Bulgaria gained independence from the Ottoman Empire. 

He abdicated the throne in 1918 and left for Coburg, Germany, where he lived until his death in 1948.

This past summer, his remains were repatriated to Bulgaria

With his wife Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma (1870-1899), he had four children—Boris III (1894–1943), Kyril (1895–1945), Eudoxia (1898–1985) and Nadejda (1899–1958).

Though Ferdinand—as well as Princess Nadejda and her husband Albrecht Eugen, Duke of Württemberg (1895-1954)—were already living in Germany, the rest of his family endured the Red Army’s invasion of Bulgaria in the 1940s, and his two sons died in the war.

Princess Eudoxia was being held prisoner in her home when the invaders allowed her a chance to leave Bulgaria. She, along with Boris III’ widow Giovanna of Savoy, escaped to Germany, taking with her bags of the family’s jewels.

The jewels were deposited into a bank vault in Germany in 1946, where they remained until being rediscovered last year. 

In November 2023, the tucked-away jewels saved by Princess Eudoxia were auctioned in Sotheby’s white-glove sale, “Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection.”

“A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria (1861-1948),” is a continuation of that story, influenced by several generations of large and interconnected European Royal dynasties. 

 Related stories will be right here … 

This collection was united by Princess Nadejda, who inherited many important jewels from her mother and grandmother Princess Clémentine of Orléans, and her descendants inherited many pieces once belonging to Princess Eudoxia.

Tsar Ferdinand I of Bulgaria family tree
A depiction of the Tsar’s family tree (Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s auction catalog)


The collection also included pieces Princess Nadejda’s husband inherited from his mother Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria, Duchess of Württemberg (1870-1902) and his grandmother Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen, Duchess of Württemberg (1845- 1927), as well as his aunt Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, Duchess of Württemberg (1878-1968).

A diamond bandeau Princess Nadejda wore in her wedding shone at the sale. 

It sold for $299,761 against an estimate of $80,000 to $120,000.

diamond bandeau Princess Nadejda
Princess Nadejda’s diamond bandeau, circa 1890s, likely was created by Viennese jeweler Rothe & Neffe for her mother, Sotheby’s said.


Princess Eudoxia’s diamond rivière necklace (est. $100,000 to $150,000) that she inherited from her mother sold for $177,132. 

Princess Eudoxia’s diamond rivière necklace
Princess Eudoxia’s rivière necklace likely contains diamonds from an earlier necklace that her father (Ferdinand I) gave to her mother as a wedding gift in 1893, according to Sotheby’s.


A colored gemstone and diamond bracelet by Eugène Fontenay (est. $40,000 to $60,000), also belonging to Princess Eudoxia, also sold for $177,132, nearly tripling the high end of its estimate. 

The piece was passed down from her mother (the ruler’s first wife), Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria (1870-1899), who likely inherited the piece from her mother, Princess Maria Pia of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Duchess of Parma (1849-1882).

Princess Eudoxia Eugène Fontenay bracelet
The Eugène Fontenay bracelet, circa 1870, set with graduated cushion-cut gemstones including spinels, sapphires, emeralds, and yellow sapphires, and framed by old cushion-shaped and rose diamonds


Also, a pair of diamond earrings belonging to Princess Eudoxia, passed down from her mother, sold for $81,753. They were estimated to fetch about $51,000 to $68,000. 


Another notable sale included that of an opal and diamond tiara, a wedding gift to Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, which sold for $84,478 against an estimate of about $19,000 to $29,000. 

Also, a natural pearl and diamond brooch belonging to Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen sold for $81,753. It was estimated for sell for about $29,000 to $48,000.

diamond pearl brooch Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen
A brooch set with old-cushion-shaped diamonds accented by rose diamonds, suspending three detachable pendants, each set with a drop-shaped natural pearl


She was gifted the brooch by Empress Maria Anna of Austria as a wedding present when she married Philipp, Duke of Württemberg (1838-1917) in 1865.  

In 1924, she wore it to her grandson’s wedding to Princess Nadejda, who inherited the piece. 

All of Sotheby’s Nov. 13 sales achieved a combined total of $30.7 million, with more than 96 percent of lots sold achieving a final bid within their pre-sale estimate range or above and 83 percent of all Royal & Noble sale lots outshining their high estimate. 

Lauren McLemoreis the associate editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments.

The Latest

Nest doorbell camera footage of suspect in Nancy Guthrie abduction
CrimeFeb 13, 2026
JSA Offering $10K Reward in Nancy Guthrie Case

Guthrie, the mother of “Today” show host Savannah Guthrie, was abducted just as the Tucson gem shows were starting.

Butterfield Jewelers going out of business sale ad
IndependentsFeb 13, 2026
97-Year-Old New Mexico Jewelry Store To Close

Butterfield Jewelers in Albuquerque, New Mexico, is preparing to close as members of the Butterfield family head into retirement.

Paul Morelli Rosebud Necklace
CollectionsFeb 13, 2026
A ‘Rosebud’ Necklace for Valentine’s Day

Paul Morelli’s “Rosebud” necklace, our Piece of the Week, uses 18-karat rose, green, and white gold to turn the symbol of love into jewelry.

MJSA Apprenticeship Guide
Brought to you by
The MJSA Mentor & Apprenticeship Program: Attracting & Training the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

Launched in 2023, the program will help the passing of knowledge between generations and alleviate the shortage of bench jewelers.

Jewelers for Children
MajorsFeb 13, 2026
JFC Announces New Beneficiaries

The nonprofit has welcomed four new grantees for 2026.

Weekly QuizFeb 12, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Saks Fifth Avenue Club personal styling suite in Austin Texas
MajorsFeb 12, 2026
These 8 Saks Fifth Avenue Stores Are Closing

Parent company Saks Global is also closing nearly all Saks Off 5th locations, a Neiman Marcus store, and 14 personal styling suites.

Tudor Heart pendant on display at British Museum
CollectionsFeb 12, 2026
British Museum Raises $5M to Keep Jewel Linked to Henry VIII, Katherine of Aragon

It is believed the 24-karat heart-shaped enameled pendant was made for an event marking the betrothal of Princess Mary in 1518.

JamAlert 1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
How Jewelers Can Fight Back Against Cell Jammers

Criminals are using cell jammers to disable alarms, but new technology like JamAlert™ can stop them.

AGTA Spectrum, Cutting Edge Buyers Choice winners 2025
SourcingFeb 12, 2026
‘Cotton Candy’ Necklace, 35-Carat Kunzite Win 2025 ‘Buyer’s Choice’ Awards

The AGTA Spectrum and Cutting Edge “Buyer’s Choice” award winners were announced at the Spectrum Awards Gala last week.

Kering Logo
Events & AwardsFeb 12, 2026
Kering Opens Entries for 2026 Sustainability-Focused Award

The “Kering Generation Award x Jewelry” returns for its second year with “Second Chance, First Choice” as its theme.

Halle Berry’s vintage diamond and sapphire engagement ring
TrendsFeb 11, 2026
Halle Berry’s Retro Engagement Ring Is a Sapphire-Set Stunner

Sourced by For Future Reference Vintage, the yellow gold ring has a round center stone surrounded by step-cut sapphires.

Francesca’s storefront
MajorsFeb 11, 2026
Francesca’s Files for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy Again

The clothing and accessories chain announced last month it would be closing all of its stores.

Zales x Sweethearts Capsule Collection Heart Charms
CollectionsFeb 11, 2026
Zales Turns Sweethearts Into Jewelry for Valentine’s Day Collection

The “Zales x Sweethearts” collection features three mystery heart charms engraved with classic sayings seen on the Valentine’s Day candies.

2026 Gemvision Symposium
TechnologyFeb 11, 2026
Gemvision Symposium 2026 Slated for April

The event will include panel discussions, hands-on demonstrations of new digital manufacturing tools, and a jewelry design contest.

The Jewelry Symposium
Events & AwardsFeb 11, 2026
TJS Announces Roundtable, Launches New App

Registration is now open for The Jewelry Symposium, set to take place in Detroit from May 16-19.

The Luanda Accord signatories at the African Mining Indaba in Cape Town, South Africa
SourcingFeb 10, 2026
At Meeting in South Africa, Support for Natural Diamonds Picks Up Steam

Namibia has formally signed the Luanda Accord, while two key industry organizations pledged to join the Natural Diamond Council.

Bad Bunny Performing Super Bowl LX Halftime Show
TrendsFeb 10, 2026
Bad Bunny Wears Football-Shaped ‘Desert Diamond’ for Halftime Performance

Lady Gaga, Cardi B, and Karol G also went with diamond jewelry for Bad Bunny’s Super Bowl halftime show honoring Puerto Rico.

Miraki Jewels heart diamond signet ring
SurveysFeb 10, 2026
Shoppers to Spend Big on Jewelry This Valentine’s Day, Says NRF

Jewelry is expected to be the No. 1 gift this year in terms of dollars spent.

Pomellato Nudo toi et moi ring
FinancialsFeb 10, 2026
Kering Plans Transformation as 2025 Sales Sink 13%

As star brand Gucci continues to struggle, the luxury titan plans to announce a new roadmap to return to growth.

Stuller color of the year 2026 Signature Red jewelry and gemstones
SourcingFeb 10, 2026
AGTA To Debut ‘Stuller Color of the Year’ Spectrum Awards Category

The new category asks entrants for “exceptional” interpretations of the supplier’s 2026 color of the year, which is “Signature Red.”

Stock image of loose polished diamonds
Policies & IssuesFeb 09, 2026
U.S., India Trade Deal One Step Closer to Being Finalized

The White House issued an official statement on the deal, which will eliminate tariffs on loose natural diamonds and gemstones from India.

CASE Awards Graphic
Events & AwardsFeb 09, 2026
JA Now Accepting Entries for 2026 CASE Awards

Entries for the jewelry design competition will be accepted through March 20.

James Free Jewelers Dayton Ohio store
IndependentsFeb 09, 2026
James Free Jewelers Unveils Revamped Flagship

The Ohio jeweler’s new layout features a curated collection of brand boutiques to promote storytelling and host in-store events.

KIL NYC The Pierced Padlock Wounded
TrendsFeb 09, 2026
These 14 Jewels Will Melt Your Heart This Valentine’s Day

From heart motifs to pink pearls, Valentine’s Day is filled with jewelry imbued with love.

Stock image of a gavel
CrimeFeb 06, 2026
Florida Man Sentenced After Selling Fake Native American Jewelry for a Decade

Prosecutors say the man attended arts and craft fairs claiming he was a third-generation jeweler who was a member of the Pueblo tribe.

Luciano Rodembusch
FinancialsFeb 06, 2026
Pandora’s North America GM Departs Amid Executive Changes

New CEO Berta de Pablos-Barbier shared her priorities for the Danish jewelry company this year as part of its fourth-quarter results.

Cece Jewellery Bespoke Wuthering Heights Signet Rings on Margot Robbie and Jacob Elordi
TrendsFeb 06, 2026
Margot Robbie, Jacob Elordi Wear Matching Cece Jewellery Signet Rings

Our Piece of the Week picks are these bespoke rings the “Wuthering Heights” stars have been spotted wearing during the film’s press tour.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy