Auctions

‘A Tsar’s Treasure’ Fetches $2.9M at Sotheby’s Jewelry Sale

AuctionsNov 19, 2024

‘A Tsar’s Treasure’ Fetches $2.9M at Sotheby’s Jewelry Sale

A collection of pieces owned by Ferdinand I, the first king of modern Bulgaria, and his family, blew away estimates in Geneva last week.

Tsar Ferdinand I Bulgaria colored diamond pin and emerald diamond ring
Every lot found a buyer at Sotheby’s recent auction featuring jewelry that belonged to Tsar Ferdinand I, as well as heirlooms from his mother and pieces passed down through members of his immediate lineage. The highest-grossing lot was the former ruler’s personal colored diamond pin (left) followed by an emerald and diamond ring (right) that belonged to his daughter.
Geneva—At Sotheby’s recent white-glove jewelry sale in Geneva, a collection of jewelry owned by Ferdinand I, the first king of modern Bulgaria, and his family achieved $2.9 million.

The 114-lot offering, “A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria (1861-1948),” comprised pieces that span a century and were part of the history of the family of Tsar Ferdinand of Saxe-Coborg-Gotha. The collection was estimated to fetch a total of $1.2 million to $1.8 million.

Having not been seen publicly in nearly a century, the pieces made their auction debut during Sotheby’s Nov. 13 auction comprising a Magnificent Jewels sale and a multi-part Royal & Noble Jewels sale, which included the offering of an 18th-century diamond necklace with potential ties to Marie-Antoinette.

“A Tsar’s Treasure” was offered in Royal & Noble Jewels Part 1.

The top lot was a yellow gold tie pin that once belonged to Ferdinand, who the auction house described as a man of exquisite, refined taste.

Tsar Ferdinand’s yellow gold tie pin
Tsar Ferdinand’s yellow gold tie pin features a 2.08-carat pear-shaped fancy gray-blue diamond; a 0.65-carat fancy pink diamond; a 0.52-carat fancy green diamond; a 0.47-carat fancy deep brown-orange diamond; and a 0.13-carat fancy intense green-yellow diamond.


Featuring a fleur-de-lis motif set with colored diamonds, the piece was made in the early 20th century, and it sold for $585,897, within its estimate of $500,000 to $700,000.

The second highest-grossing lot was an emerald and diamond ring that sold for $313,387, blowing past its pre-sale estimate of about $40,000 to $57,000.

emerald and diamond ring
A ring set with a step-cut emerald flanked by pear-shaped diamonds, with shoulders accented by old cushion-shaped, circular-cut and rose diamonds

Giovanna of Savoy, the widow of Ferdinand I’s son and successor Tsar Boris III, gifted this ring to her sister-in-law Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria (1898-1985). 

The Tsarina likely received the ring from her sister Mafalda of Savoy, Landgravine of Hesse-Kassel (1902-1944), a member of the Italian royal family whose staunch opposition to fascism led to her death in a concentration camp.

Another notable sale was that of a cat’s eye chrysoberyl and diamond neck badge of the Order of the Golden Fleece.

The early 20th century piece sold for $79,028, just under ten times the high end of its estimate, about $6,000 to $8,000.

Ferdinand I, Tsar of Bulgaria Order of the Golden Fleece
Ferdinand I, Tsar of Bulgaria, wearing the decoration of the Order of the Golden Fleece (left) and a close-up of the piece (right) (Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s auction catalog)


Ferdinand I was elected prince of Bulgaria in 1887, and in 1908, he assumed the title of Tsar after Bulgaria gained independence from the Ottoman Empire. 

He abdicated the throne in 1918 and left for Coburg, Germany, where he lived until his death in 1948.

This past summer, his remains were repatriated to Bulgaria

With his wife Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma (1870-1899), he had four children—Boris III (1894–1943), Kyril (1895–1945), Eudoxia (1898–1985) and Nadejda (1899–1958).

Though Ferdinand—as well as Princess Nadejda and her husband Albrecht Eugen, Duke of Württemberg (1895-1954)—were already living in Germany, the rest of his family endured the Red Army’s invasion of Bulgaria in the 1940s, and his two sons died in the war.

Princess Eudoxia was being held prisoner in her home when the invaders allowed her a chance to leave Bulgaria. She, along with Boris III’ widow Giovanna of Savoy, escaped to Germany, taking with her bags of the family’s jewels.

The jewels were deposited into a bank vault in Germany in 1946, where they remained until being rediscovered last year. 

In November 2023, the tucked-away jewels saved by Princess Eudoxia were auctioned in Sotheby’s white-glove sale, “Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection.”

“A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria (1861-1948),” is a continuation of that story, influenced by several generations of large and interconnected European Royal dynasties. 

 Related stories will be right here … 

This collection was united by Princess Nadejda, who inherited many important jewels from her mother and grandmother Princess Clémentine of Orléans, and her descendants inherited many pieces once belonging to Princess Eudoxia.

Tsar Ferdinand I of Bulgaria family tree
A depiction of the Tsar’s family tree (Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s auction catalog)


The collection also included pieces Princess Nadejda’s husband inherited from his mother Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria, Duchess of Württemberg (1870-1902) and his grandmother Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen, Duchess of Württemberg (1845- 1927), as well as his aunt Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, Duchess of Württemberg (1878-1968).

A diamond bandeau Princess Nadejda wore in her wedding shone at the sale. 

It sold for $299,761 against an estimate of $80,000 to $120,000.

diamond bandeau Princess Nadejda
Princess Nadejda’s diamond bandeau, circa 1890s, likely was created by Viennese jeweler Rothe & Neffe for her mother, Sotheby’s said.


Princess Eudoxia’s diamond rivière necklace (est. $100,000 to $150,000) that she inherited from her mother sold for $177,132. 

Princess Eudoxia’s diamond rivière necklace
Princess Eudoxia’s rivière necklace likely contains diamonds from an earlier necklace that her father (Ferdinand I) gave to her mother as a wedding gift in 1893, according to Sotheby’s.


A colored gemstone and diamond bracelet by Eugène Fontenay (est. $40,000 to $60,000), also belonging to Princess Eudoxia, also sold for $177,132, nearly tripling the high end of its estimate. 

The piece was passed down from her mother (the ruler’s first wife), Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria (1870-1899), who likely inherited the piece from her mother, Princess Maria Pia of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Duchess of Parma (1849-1882).

Princess Eudoxia Eugène Fontenay bracelet
The Eugène Fontenay bracelet, circa 1870, set with graduated cushion-cut gemstones including spinels, sapphires, emeralds, and yellow sapphires, and framed by old cushion-shaped and rose diamonds


Also, a pair of diamond earrings belonging to Princess Eudoxia, passed down from her mother, sold for $81,753. They were estimated to fetch about $51,000 to $68,000. 


Another notable sale included that of an opal and diamond tiara, a wedding gift to Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, which sold for $84,478 against an estimate of about $19,000 to $29,000. 

Also, a natural pearl and diamond brooch belonging to Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen sold for $81,753. It was estimated for sell for about $29,000 to $48,000.

diamond pearl brooch Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen
A brooch set with old-cushion-shaped diamonds accented by rose diamonds, suspending three detachable pendants, each set with a drop-shaped natural pearl


She was gifted the brooch by Empress Maria Anna of Austria as a wedding present when she married Philipp, Duke of Württemberg (1838-1917) in 1865.  

In 1924, she wore it to her grandson’s wedding to Princess Nadejda, who inherited the piece. 

All of Sotheby’s Nov. 13 sales achieved a combined total of $30.7 million, with more than 96 percent of lots sold achieving a final bid within their pre-sale estimate range or above and 83 percent of all Royal & Noble sale lots outshining their high estimate. 

Lauren McLemoreis the associate editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments.

The Latest

Tom Moses
GradingMar 06, 2026
Tom Moses Leaving GIA After Nearly 50 Years

Moses, who started at GIA’s Santa Monica lab in 1976, will leave the Gemological Institute of America in May.

Charles & Colvard showroom in Morrisville, North Carolina
Lab-GrownMar 06, 2026
Charles & Colvard Files for Bankruptcy, Citing Price Pressures

Increased competition, falling lab-grown diamond and moissanite prices, and the rising cost of gold took a toll on the moissanite maker.

Zome Solara Earrings
CollectionsMar 06, 2026
Zome’s ‘Solara’ Earrings Embody Celestial Beauty

The earrings, our Piece of the Week, feature pink tourmalines as planets orbiting around an aquamarine center set in 18-karat rose gold.

TopImageCrop.jpg
Brought to you by
Is This You? Every Jeweler Has This Problem; We Have the Solution.

Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.

Pomellato’s International Women’s Day “The Price of Freedom” Campaign
MajorsMar 06, 2026
Pomellato’s 2026 IWD Campaign Spotlights Economic Abuse

“The Price of Freedom” campaign video for International Women’s Day confronts the quiet violence of financial control.

Weekly QuizMar 05, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Stock image of shipping containers
Policies & IssuesMar 05, 2026
Tariffs to Increase to 15% This Week, Treasury Secretary Says

Also, a federal judge has ordered that companies that paid tariffs implemented under the IEEPA are entitled to refunds.

Common Era Difficult Women Pandora Pendant, Anne Boleyn Signet Ring, Cleopatra Pendant
CollectionsMar 05, 2026
Common Era Honors ‘Difficult Women’ in Collection

The ever-growing collection, which just expanded with the addition of Olga of Kyiv, features cameos of 12 women from history.

dca-laptop.jpg
Brought to you by
DCA Enters a New Chapter in Jewelry Education

With refreshed branding, a new website, updated courses, and a pathway for growth, DCA is dedicated to supporting retail staff development.

Diamond engagement rings by designer Lorraine West
TrendsMar 05, 2026
Engagement Ring Trends 2026: What’s In, and Why

We asked a jewelry historian, designer, bridal director, and wedding expert what’s trending in engagement rings. Here’s what they said.

American Gem Society Conclave 2026 Orlando logo
Events & AwardsMar 05, 2026
AGS Announces Conclave 2026 Speaker Lineup

The annual event will be held in Orlando, Florida, from Sept. 14-17.

Caitríona Balfe on Only Natural Diamonds Spring 2026 Issue Cover
TrendsMar 05, 2026
Caitríona Balfe Fronts Only Natural Diamonds Cover

The “Outlander” star modeled for the digital cover of the magazine’s spring issue, which features a story on her relationship with jewelry.

CIBJO Milan
MajorsMar 05, 2026
Registration Opens for CIBJO Centenary Congress

This year’s annual congress, which will mark the confederation’s 100th anniversary, will take place this fall in Italy.

Michael M Beverly Hills Flagship Interior Rendering
MajorsMar 04, 2026
Michael M Opens First Store

Beverly Hills was chosen as the location for the brand’s first store, designed as a “private residence for modern monarchs.”

Dubai mall
Policies & IssuesMar 04, 2026
Luxury Brands Temporarily Shutter Middle East Stores

Kering, Apple, and other retailers have reportedly temporarily closed stores in the Middle East region in light of the recent conflicts.

Brilliant Earth Beverly Hills showroom
EditorsMar 04, 2026
Q&A: Brilliant Earth’s CEO on the New Beverly Hills Store

Beth Gerstein discusses the vibe of the new store, what customers want when fine jewelry shopping today, and the details of “Date Night.”

JIS Miami Spring 2026
Events & AwardsMar 04, 2026
JIS Miami Spring Show to Feature New Gifts Pavilion, Pop-Up Trends Talks

Nearly half of buyers are prioritizing silver and fashion collections this season, organizers said.

Spinelli Kilcollin Live Now. Polish Later. Campaign
TrendsMar 04, 2026
Spinelli Kilcollin Rides Free In Year of the Horse Campaign

The “Live Now. Polish Later.” campaign features equestrians wearing the brand’s jewels while galloping across the icy plains of Kazakhstan.

Jennifer Ashworth
MajorsMar 04, 2026
LeachGarner Names New Brand Director

The precious metals provider has promoted Jennifer Ashworth to the role.

Johnny Nelson Wins David Yurman Gem Award Grant Graphic
Events & AwardsMar 03, 2026
Johnny Nelson Wins David Yurman Gem Awards Grant

Nelson will be honored as the inaugural grant winner at the Gem Awards gala on March 13.

New Forevermark store in India
SourcingMar 03, 2026
7 Trends That Could Define the Diamond Industry’s Future

Experts from India weigh in the politics, policies, and market dynamics for diamantaires to monitor in 2026 and beyond.

Gannon & Scott and Metalor Technologies employees
MajorsMar 03, 2026
Swiss Refiner Completes Acquisition of Gannon & Scott

The American precious metals refiner’s day-to-day operations remain the same post-acquisition.

Isabel Delgado aquamarine earrings
TrendsMar 03, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Aquatopia

These aquamarine jewels channel the calming energy of the March birthstone.

AGTA Innovative Design Award
Events & AwardsMar 03, 2026
AGTA Adds Another New Category for Spectrum

The “Innovative Design” category and award will debut in the Spectrum division of this year’s AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards.

Nena Mensah and Sofia Carson at 2026 Actor Awards
EditorsMar 02, 2026
Jewelry at the Actor Awards: Reimagining Hollywood Glamour

Diamond jewelry was the star of the event formerly known as the SAG Awards.

Person pushing a shopping cart
SurveysMar 02, 2026
Consumer Confidence Edges Up in February

Consumers were somewhat less worried about the future, though concerns about rising prices and politics remained.

Rebecca Foerster
Events & AwardsMar 02, 2026
JVC to Honor Rebecca Foerster at Annual Luncheon

Foerster is this year’s Stanley Schechter Award recipient.

JFC facets 2026
Events & AwardsMar 02, 2026
JFC Names 2026 ‘Facets’ Honorees

Sponsorships and tickets to the annual fundraising event, set for May 31, are available now.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy