Auctions

‘A Tsar’s Treasure’ Fetches $2.9M at Sotheby’s Jewelry Sale

AuctionsNov 19, 2024

‘A Tsar’s Treasure’ Fetches $2.9M at Sotheby’s Jewelry Sale

A collection of pieces owned by Ferdinand I, the first king of modern Bulgaria, and his family, blew away estimates in Geneva last week.

Tsar Ferdinand I Bulgaria colored diamond pin and emerald diamond ring
Every lot found a buyer at Sotheby’s recent auction featuring jewelry that belonged to Tsar Ferdinand I, as well as heirlooms from his mother and pieces passed down through members of his immediate lineage. The highest-grossing lot was the former ruler’s personal colored diamond pin (left) followed by an emerald and diamond ring (right) that belonged to his daughter.
Geneva—At Sotheby’s recent white-glove jewelry sale in Geneva, a collection of jewelry owned by Ferdinand I, the first king of modern Bulgaria, and his family achieved $2.9 million.

The 114-lot offering, “A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria (1861-1948),” comprised pieces that span a century and were part of the history of the family of Tsar Ferdinand of Saxe-Coborg-Gotha. The collection was estimated to fetch a total of $1.2 million to $1.8 million.

Having not been seen publicly in nearly a century, the pieces made their auction debut during Sotheby’s Nov. 13 auction comprising a Magnificent Jewels sale and a multi-part Royal & Noble Jewels sale, which included the offering of an 18th-century diamond necklace with potential ties to Marie-Antoinette.

“A Tsar’s Treasure” was offered in Royal & Noble Jewels Part 1.

The top lot was a yellow gold tie pin that once belonged to Ferdinand, who the auction house described as a man of exquisite, refined taste.

Tsar Ferdinand’s yellow gold tie pin
Tsar Ferdinand’s yellow gold tie pin features a 2.08-carat pear-shaped fancy gray-blue diamond; a 0.65-carat fancy pink diamond; a 0.52-carat fancy green diamond; a 0.47-carat fancy deep brown-orange diamond; and a 0.13-carat fancy intense green-yellow diamond.


Featuring a fleur-de-lis motif set with colored diamonds, the piece was made in the early 20th century, and it sold for $585,897, within its estimate of $500,000 to $700,000.

The second highest-grossing lot was an emerald and diamond ring that sold for $313,387, blowing past its pre-sale estimate of about $40,000 to $57,000.

emerald and diamond ring
A ring set with a step-cut emerald flanked by pear-shaped diamonds, with shoulders accented by old cushion-shaped, circular-cut and rose diamonds

Giovanna of Savoy, the widow of Ferdinand I’s son and successor Tsar Boris III, gifted this ring to her sister-in-law Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria (1898-1985). 

The Tsarina likely received the ring from her sister Mafalda of Savoy, Landgravine of Hesse-Kassel (1902-1944), a member of the Italian royal family whose staunch opposition to fascism led to her death in a concentration camp.

Another notable sale was that of a cat’s eye chrysoberyl and diamond neck badge of the Order of the Golden Fleece.

The early 20th century piece sold for $79,028, just under ten times the high end of its estimate, about $6,000 to $8,000.

Ferdinand I, Tsar of Bulgaria Order of the Golden Fleece
Ferdinand I, Tsar of Bulgaria, wearing the decoration of the Order of the Golden Fleece (left) and a close-up of the piece (right) (Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s auction catalog)


Ferdinand I was elected prince of Bulgaria in 1887, and in 1908, he assumed the title of Tsar after Bulgaria gained independence from the Ottoman Empire. 

He abdicated the throne in 1918 and left for Coburg, Germany, where he lived until his death in 1948.

This past summer, his remains were repatriated to Bulgaria

With his wife Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma (1870-1899), he had four children—Boris III (1894–1943), Kyril (1895–1945), Eudoxia (1898–1985) and Nadejda (1899–1958).

Though Ferdinand—as well as Princess Nadejda and her husband Albrecht Eugen, Duke of Württemberg (1895-1954)—were already living in Germany, the rest of his family endured the Red Army’s invasion of Bulgaria in the 1940s, and his two sons died in the war.

Princess Eudoxia was being held prisoner in her home when the invaders allowed her a chance to leave Bulgaria. She, along with Boris III’ widow Giovanna of Savoy, escaped to Germany, taking with her bags of the family’s jewels.

The jewels were deposited into a bank vault in Germany in 1946, where they remained until being rediscovered last year. 

In November 2023, the tucked-away jewels saved by Princess Eudoxia were auctioned in Sotheby’s white-glove sale, “Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection.”

“A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria (1861-1948),” is a continuation of that story, influenced by several generations of large and interconnected European Royal dynasties. 

 Related stories will be right here … 

This collection was united by Princess Nadejda, who inherited many important jewels from her mother and grandmother Princess Clémentine of Orléans, and her descendants inherited many pieces once belonging to Princess Eudoxia.

Tsar Ferdinand I of Bulgaria family tree
A depiction of the Tsar’s family tree (Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s auction catalog)


The collection also included pieces Princess Nadejda’s husband inherited from his mother Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria, Duchess of Württemberg (1870-1902) and his grandmother Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen, Duchess of Württemberg (1845- 1927), as well as his aunt Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, Duchess of Württemberg (1878-1968).

A diamond bandeau Princess Nadejda wore in her wedding shone at the sale. 

It sold for $299,761 against an estimate of $80,000 to $120,000.

diamond bandeau Princess Nadejda
Princess Nadejda’s diamond bandeau, circa 1890s, likely was created by Viennese jeweler Rothe & Neffe for her mother, Sotheby’s said.


Princess Eudoxia’s diamond rivière necklace (est. $100,000 to $150,000) that she inherited from her mother sold for $177,132. 

Princess Eudoxia’s diamond rivière necklace
Princess Eudoxia’s rivière necklace likely contains diamonds from an earlier necklace that her father (Ferdinand I) gave to her mother as a wedding gift in 1893, according to Sotheby’s.


A colored gemstone and diamond bracelet by Eugène Fontenay (est. $40,000 to $60,000), also belonging to Princess Eudoxia, also sold for $177,132, nearly tripling the high end of its estimate. 

The piece was passed down from her mother (the ruler’s first wife), Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria (1870-1899), who likely inherited the piece from her mother, Princess Maria Pia of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Duchess of Parma (1849-1882).

Princess Eudoxia Eugène Fontenay bracelet
The Eugène Fontenay bracelet, circa 1870, set with graduated cushion-cut gemstones including spinels, sapphires, emeralds, and yellow sapphires, and framed by old cushion-shaped and rose diamonds


Also, a pair of diamond earrings belonging to Princess Eudoxia, passed down from her mother, sold for $81,753. They were estimated to fetch about $51,000 to $68,000. 


Another notable sale included that of an opal and diamond tiara, a wedding gift to Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, which sold for $84,478 against an estimate of about $19,000 to $29,000. 

Also, a natural pearl and diamond brooch belonging to Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen sold for $81,753. It was estimated for sell for about $29,000 to $48,000.

diamond pearl brooch Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen
A brooch set with old-cushion-shaped diamonds accented by rose diamonds, suspending three detachable pendants, each set with a drop-shaped natural pearl


She was gifted the brooch by Empress Maria Anna of Austria as a wedding present when she married Philipp, Duke of Württemberg (1838-1917) in 1865.  

In 1924, she wore it to her grandson’s wedding to Princess Nadejda, who inherited the piece. 

All of Sotheby’s Nov. 13 sales achieved a combined total of $30.7 million, with more than 96 percent of lots sold achieving a final bid within their pre-sale estimate range or above and 83 percent of all Royal & Noble sale lots outshining their high estimate. 

Lauren McLemoreis the associate editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments.

The Latest

Boucheron Scarabée Rhinocéros ring/brooch and Chardon necklace
CollectionsJan 29, 2025
Boucheron’s High Jewelry Takes the Form of ‘Untamed Nature’

The jeweler’s latest high jewelry collection looks into the Boucheron archives to create a “living encyclopedia of high jewelry.”

Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. Bone Cuff
FinancialsJan 29, 2025
LVMH Watch, Jewelry Sales End the Year Down

Watch and jewelry sales slipped 3 percent in 2024, though the luxury conglomerate did see business pick up in the fourth quarter.

Olivier Kessler-Gay
MajorsJan 29, 2025
Chanel Names New General Manager of Watches, Fine Jewelry for US

Olivier Kessler-Gay will take over the role on March 3.

Resolutions - 2025.jpg
Brought to you by
3 New Year’s Resolutions for Jewelry Lovers

The new year feels like a clean slate, inspiring reflection, hope, and the motivation to become better versions of ourselves.

Stock image of couple shopping for jewelry
SurveysJan 29, 2025
Consumer Confidence Slips for Second Consecutive Month

It hit a four-month low in January due to concerns about the job market, though consumers remain bullish about the stock market.

Weekly QuizJan 23, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Chris Ploof 6 Mokume Gane Rings
Events & AwardsJan 29, 2025
Chris Ploof To Teach Mokume Gane at AJS

The jewelry designer and master metalsmith will present on the ancient Japanese metalworking technique at the Atlanta Jewelry Show in March.

WFDB Moments campaign
SourcingJan 28, 2025
WFDB Joins Efforts to Promote Natural Diamonds With New Campaign

The “Moments” social media campaign emphasizes the emotional ties between natural diamonds and life’s special milestones.

ride_or_die_1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
A Diamond Is Forever Celebrates "Forever Present" Holiday Campaign

A Diamond is Forever hosted a holiday celebration in honor of their new marketing campaign, ‘Forever Present.’

Bliss Lau As We Are Collection Campaign
CollectionsJan 28, 2025
Bliss Lau Celebrates the Intricate Mosaic of Identity in New Collection

The versatile “As We Are” collection features 14 pieces with interlocking designs allowing for 27 different looks worn around the body.

Olympic gold medalist and De Beers ambassador Letsile Tebogo
SourcingJan 28, 2025
Botswana’s First Olympic Gold Medalist Is Now a De Beers Ambassador

Letsile Tebogo will help to promote natural diamonds and the good they have done for his country.

Hargreaves Stockholm NouvelleBox
Events & AwardsJan 28, 2025
NouvelleBox Show Returns to New York City

The showcase, in its second year, will feature more than 20 international brands at its curated event from Feb. 2-4.

Graphic for “Predictions for the Year Ahead” webinar
Recorded WebinarsJan 28, 2025
Watch: Fine Jewelry Market Predictions for 2025

“My Next Question” guests Sherry Smith and Edahn Golan share their 2025 forecasts, from sales and marketing to what retailers should stock.

AGTA Seminar Series
Events & AwardsJan 28, 2025
Here Is the 2025 AGTA GemFair Tucson Educational Lineup

The seminar series covers topics from market trends and colored stone terminology to working with museums and growing an Instagram profile.

A picture of the LeVian family including Larry LeVian
MajorsJan 27, 2025
Le Vian Corp. Chairman Larry LeVian, a Man of Faith and Family, Dies at 73

LeVian is remembered for his leadership in the jewelry industry and for being a selfless and compassionate person.

Stock image of gavel, books, and handcuffs
CrimeJan 27, 2025
New Jersey Jeweler Sentenced to 2 1/2 Years for Evading Customs

Monishkumar Kirankumar Doshi Shah pleaded guilty to evading customs on more than $13.5 million of jewelry imported into the U.S.

 Jemora Gemhouse
SourcingJan 27, 2025
Dev Shetty To Head New Auction House for Rare Colored Gems

Jemora Gemhouse’s inaugural auction, slated for March, will take place in Dubai and feature polished sapphires.

Rachel Quinn and Gemfields’ Crazy Love collection campaign
CollectionsJan 27, 2025
Rachel Quinn Embodies Feelings of Falling in Love in New Collection

Quinn partnered with Gemfields to create “Crazy Love,” which features Zambian emeralds and Mozambican rubies across 10 pieces.

Arch Crown 2025 Tag & Label catalog
MajorsJan 27, 2025
Arch Crown’s 2025 ‘Tag & Label’ Catalog Is Out Now

The catalog is 48 pages and features more than 100 styles.

Ashley Zhang Jewelry 2025 Lunar New Year Snake Necklace
CollectionsJan 24, 2025
Piece of the Week: Ashley Zhang Jewelry’s Lunar New Year Necklace

The one-of-a-kind necklace was designed in celebration of the Chinese New Year, as 2025 is the Year of the Snake.

Ethical Gem Fair Tucson Anza Gems
SourcingJan 24, 2025
Ethical Gem Fair Heads Back to Tucson

The gemstone show is slated to take place at the Scottish Rite Cathedral.

Ophelia Eve 15 mm yellow gold and diamond hoops
Policies & IssuesJan 24, 2025
These Designers and Retailers Are Raising Money for LA Wildfire Relief

From raffles to auctions to donations, the industry is working to aid charities in Los Angeles amid the raging wildfires.

Mugshots of Zacary Briggs, Aaron Hammond, Tre’von Anthony Neal, and Evan Puckett
CrimeJan 23, 2025
4 Men Arrested After Allegedly Plotting to Kidnap Jeweler

The suspects are accused of planning to kidnap a Miami jeweler and rob him of his cryptocurrency.

Loose diamonds from Namdia
CrimeJan 23, 2025
Security Guard Killed in Armed Robbery at Namibian Diamond Co.

Francis “Gosh” Eiseb, 58, was a senior protection officer for Namib Desert Diamonds, also known as Namdia, in Windhoek, Namibia.

Gemstone Trading Network by RapNet and AGTA
SourcingJan 23, 2025
RapNet, AGTA Partner to Launch Gemstone Trading Network

The online diamond and jewelry marketplace has expanded, introducing a new platform dedicated to colored gemstone trading.

Symposium 2025 Speakers
Events & AwardsJan 23, 2025
Plumb Club Announces Speaker Lineup for Symposium ‘25

The second annual learning forum for retailers is slated for March 13 at City Winery in Pier 57 in New York City.

Fancy Color Research Foundation
SourcingJan 23, 2025
Fancy Color Research Foundation Names New CEO

Roy Safit took over the role on Jan. 1.

National Jeweler columnist Sherry Smith
ColumnistsJan 22, 2025
On Data: How Did Independent Jewelers Fare in 2024?

Sherry Smith shares data on the year gone by, including the breakdown between natural and lab-grown diamond sales.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy