Auctions

‘A Tsar’s Treasure’ Fetches $2.9M at Sotheby’s Jewelry Sale

AuctionsNov 19, 2024

‘A Tsar’s Treasure’ Fetches $2.9M at Sotheby’s Jewelry Sale

A collection of pieces owned by Ferdinand I, the first king of modern Bulgaria, and his family, blew away estimates in Geneva last week.

Tsar Ferdinand I Bulgaria colored diamond pin and emerald diamond ring
Every lot found a buyer at Sotheby’s recent auction featuring jewelry that belonged to Tsar Ferdinand I, as well as heirlooms from his mother and pieces passed down through members of his immediate lineage. The highest-grossing lot was the former ruler’s personal colored diamond pin (left) followed by an emerald and diamond ring (right) that belonged to his daughter.
Geneva—At Sotheby’s recent white-glove jewelry sale in Geneva, a collection of jewelry owned by Ferdinand I, the first king of modern Bulgaria, and his family achieved $2.9 million.

The 114-lot offering, “A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria (1861-1948),” comprised pieces that span a century and were part of the history of the family of Tsar Ferdinand of Saxe-Coborg-Gotha. The collection was estimated to fetch a total of $1.2 million to $1.8 million.

Having not been seen publicly in nearly a century, the pieces made their auction debut during Sotheby’s Nov. 13 auction comprising a Magnificent Jewels sale and a multi-part Royal & Noble Jewels sale, which included the offering of an 18th-century diamond necklace with potential ties to Marie-Antoinette.

“A Tsar’s Treasure” was offered in Royal & Noble Jewels Part 1.

The top lot was a yellow gold tie pin that once belonged to Ferdinand, who the auction house described as a man of exquisite, refined taste.

Tsar Ferdinand’s yellow gold tie pin
Tsar Ferdinand’s yellow gold tie pin features a 2.08-carat pear-shaped fancy gray-blue diamond; a 0.65-carat fancy pink diamond; a 0.52-carat fancy green diamond; a 0.47-carat fancy deep brown-orange diamond; and a 0.13-carat fancy intense green-yellow diamond.


Featuring a fleur-de-lis motif set with colored diamonds, the piece was made in the early 20th century, and it sold for $585,897, within its estimate of $500,000 to $700,000.

The second highest-grossing lot was an emerald and diamond ring that sold for $313,387, blowing past its pre-sale estimate of about $40,000 to $57,000.

emerald and diamond ring
A ring set with a step-cut emerald flanked by pear-shaped diamonds, with shoulders accented by old cushion-shaped, circular-cut and rose diamonds

Giovanna of Savoy, the widow of Ferdinand I’s son and successor Tsar Boris III, gifted this ring to her sister-in-law Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria (1898-1985). 

The Tsarina likely received the ring from her sister Mafalda of Savoy, Landgravine of Hesse-Kassel (1902-1944), a member of the Italian royal family whose staunch opposition to fascism led to her death in a concentration camp.

Another notable sale was that of a cat’s eye chrysoberyl and diamond neck badge of the Order of the Golden Fleece.

The early 20th century piece sold for $79,028, just under ten times the high end of its estimate, about $6,000 to $8,000.

Ferdinand I, Tsar of Bulgaria Order of the Golden Fleece
Ferdinand I, Tsar of Bulgaria, wearing the decoration of the Order of the Golden Fleece (left) and a close-up of the piece (right) (Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s auction catalog)


Ferdinand I was elected prince of Bulgaria in 1887, and in 1908, he assumed the title of Tsar after Bulgaria gained independence from the Ottoman Empire. 

He abdicated the throne in 1918 and left for Coburg, Germany, where he lived until his death in 1948.

This past summer, his remains were repatriated to Bulgaria

With his wife Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma (1870-1899), he had four children—Boris III (1894–1943), Kyril (1895–1945), Eudoxia (1898–1985) and Nadejda (1899–1958).

Though Ferdinand—as well as Princess Nadejda and her husband Albrecht Eugen, Duke of Württemberg (1895-1954)—were already living in Germany, the rest of his family endured the Red Army’s invasion of Bulgaria in the 1940s, and his two sons died in the war.

Princess Eudoxia was being held prisoner in her home when the invaders allowed her a chance to leave Bulgaria. She, along with Boris III’ widow Giovanna of Savoy, escaped to Germany, taking with her bags of the family’s jewels.

The jewels were deposited into a bank vault in Germany in 1946, where they remained until being rediscovered last year. 

In November 2023, the tucked-away jewels saved by Princess Eudoxia were auctioned in Sotheby’s white-glove sale, “Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection.”

“A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria (1861-1948),” is a continuation of that story, influenced by several generations of large and interconnected European Royal dynasties. 

 Related stories will be right here … 

This collection was united by Princess Nadejda, who inherited many important jewels from her mother and grandmother Princess Clémentine of Orléans, and her descendants inherited many pieces once belonging to Princess Eudoxia.

Tsar Ferdinand I of Bulgaria family tree
A depiction of the Tsar’s family tree (Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s auction catalog)


The collection also included pieces Princess Nadejda’s husband inherited from his mother Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria, Duchess of Württemberg (1870-1902) and his grandmother Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen, Duchess of Württemberg (1845- 1927), as well as his aunt Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, Duchess of Württemberg (1878-1968).

A diamond bandeau Princess Nadejda wore in her wedding shone at the sale. 

It sold for $299,761 against an estimate of $80,000 to $120,000.

diamond bandeau Princess Nadejda
Princess Nadejda’s diamond bandeau, circa 1890s, likely was created by Viennese jeweler Rothe & Neffe for her mother, Sotheby’s said.


Princess Eudoxia’s diamond rivière necklace (est. $100,000 to $150,000) that she inherited from her mother sold for $177,132. 

Princess Eudoxia’s diamond rivière necklace
Princess Eudoxia’s rivière necklace likely contains diamonds from an earlier necklace that her father (Ferdinand I) gave to her mother as a wedding gift in 1893, according to Sotheby’s.


A colored gemstone and diamond bracelet by Eugène Fontenay (est. $40,000 to $60,000), also belonging to Princess Eudoxia, also sold for $177,132, nearly tripling the high end of its estimate. 

The piece was passed down from her mother (the ruler’s first wife), Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria (1870-1899), who likely inherited the piece from her mother, Princess Maria Pia of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Duchess of Parma (1849-1882).

Princess Eudoxia Eugène Fontenay bracelet
The Eugène Fontenay bracelet, circa 1870, set with graduated cushion-cut gemstones including spinels, sapphires, emeralds, and yellow sapphires, and framed by old cushion-shaped and rose diamonds


Also, a pair of diamond earrings belonging to Princess Eudoxia, passed down from her mother, sold for $81,753. They were estimated to fetch about $51,000 to $68,000. 


Another notable sale included that of an opal and diamond tiara, a wedding gift to Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, which sold for $84,478 against an estimate of about $19,000 to $29,000. 

Also, a natural pearl and diamond brooch belonging to Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen sold for $81,753. It was estimated for sell for about $29,000 to $48,000.

diamond pearl brooch Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen
A brooch set with old-cushion-shaped diamonds accented by rose diamonds, suspending three detachable pendants, each set with a drop-shaped natural pearl


She was gifted the brooch by Empress Maria Anna of Austria as a wedding present when she married Philipp, Duke of Württemberg (1838-1917) in 1865.  

In 1924, she wore it to her grandson’s wedding to Princess Nadejda, who inherited the piece. 

All of Sotheby’s Nov. 13 sales achieved a combined total of $30.7 million, with more than 96 percent of lots sold achieving a final bid within their pre-sale estimate range or above and 83 percent of all Royal & Noble sale lots outshining their high estimate. 

Lauren McLemoreis the associate editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments.

The Latest

National Jeweler columnist and Smart Age founder and CEO Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsMar 31, 2026
Q1 Clues That Reveal Where Your Jewelry Store’s Sales Are Heading

These customer behavior patterns say a lot about how successful your jewelry store is going to be this year, Emmanuel Raheb writes.

Mejuri Puzzle Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsMar 31, 2026
Mejuri Adds Silver to ‘Puzzle’ Collection

Mejuri’s popular collection of 18-karat yellow gold vermeil rings debuted in sterling silver alongside new “Puzzle” slider charms.

Ashley Longshore in Buddha Mama jewelry
CollectionsMar 31, 2026
Buddha Mama, Ashley Longshore to Host Pop-Up in Dallas

The Miami-based jewelry brand and the NYC-based artist will be in Dallas from April 9-11.

GIA iD100®
Brought to you by
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

You deserve to know what you are selling–to protect your customers as well as your business and your reputation.

Natural Diamond Council world diamond day
SourcingMar 31, 2026
NDC Designates April 8 as 'World Diamond Day'

The initiative invites those in the industry to share stories on social media highlighting the meaning and impact of natural diamonds.

Weekly QuizMar 26, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Jillian Wolk, the new CEO of Tracr
SourcingMar 31, 2026
GIA VP Jillian Wolk to Take Over at Tracr

Wolk’s first day on the job as CEO of Tracr, De Beers Group’s blockchain platform, will be May 1.

Tom Moses examining the “Motswedi” diamond
EditorsMar 30, 2026
Tom Moses Looks Back on His Decades at GIA

Moses, who will leave the lab in May after nearly 50 years, discusses his start in the business, gemstones that stand out, and what’s next.

TopImageCrop.jpg
Brought to you by
Is This You? Every Jeweler Has This Problem; We Have the Solution.

Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.

Oscar Heyman Spring Catalog Aquamarine and Diamond Necklace and Platinum Opal, Sapphire, Emerald, Diamond Bracelet
TrendsMar 30, 2026
Oscar Heyman Debuts First Spring Catalog

The new catalog, which showcases 35 one-of-a-kind pieces of jewelry, is a compliment to the company’s popular holiday catalog.

Diavik Diamond Mine winter aerial shot
SourcingMar 30, 2026
Rio Tinto Hauls Last Load from Diavik

Production has ceased at the Canadian diamond mine, which has yielded more than 150 million carats of rough diamonds in its 23-year run.

Tanishq Westborough Massachusetts store
MajorsMar 30, 2026
Tanishq Opens First New England Location

The store opening marks the 10th United States location for the India-based jewelry retailer.

Saks Fifth Avenue door sign
MajorsMar 27, 2026
Saks Global Has Changed Its Mind About Closing These 3 Stores

Two Saks Fifth Avenue locations, one in Florida and one in California, and one Neiman Marcus store are off the chopping block.

Jimmy West celebrating 40 years with Leading Jewelers Guild
IndependentsMar 27, 2026
Jimmy West, Longtime LJG Executive Director, Dies at 72

West, who started in the art department at the Leading Jewelers Guild in 1979, is remembered for his patience, kindness, and dedication.

Itä Yari Whirl Ring Tesoro
CollectionsMar 27, 2026
Itä’s ‘Yarí Whirl’ Ring Tells Every Side of the Story

In the “Tesoro” version of the ring, our Piece of the Week, each side of the gold hexagonal nugget has a unique colored gemstone design.

Citizen Watch America President Jeffrey Cohen
WatchesMar 26, 2026
Q&A: Citizen Watch America President Jeffrey Cohen on Eco-Drive’s 50th Anniversary

Cohen discusses the evolution of Citizen’s light-powered technology, the brand’s cross-generational appeal, and tariffs.

Peter Smith Essentially Human: On Sales and Salespeople
IndependentsMar 26, 2026
Peter Smith Pens Book on Human Behavior in Sales

“Essentially Human: On Sales and Salespeople" reveals the underlying human traits and behaviors of the most successful sales professionals.

Lionheart Cassandane Collection Campaign
CollectionsMar 26, 2026
Lionheart Celebrates 13 Years of ‘Cassandane’

The collection features symbols of love, luck, and light, based on the story of Queen Cassandane and Cyrus the Great of Persia.

Instappraise NAJA
Events & AwardsMar 26, 2026
NAJA, Instappraise Introduce New Scholarship

It’s the third scholarship to be launched as part of the partnership to help appraisers advance their professional credentials.

CASE Awards Graphic
Events & AwardsMar 26, 2026
JA Still Accepting Entries for 2026 CASE Awards

The deadline for entries in the jewelry design competition has been extended to April 3.

Industry journalist Rob Bates
SourcingMar 25, 2026
Rob Bates Steps Down as JCK News Director

After 28 years with JCK, the veteran industry journalist is launching his own publication on Substack called The Jewelry Wire.

AMNH Beryl
GradingMar 25, 2026
New York’s Natural History Museum, Wiley To Build Minerals Database

Wiley said the project will give scientists worldwide access to the American Museum of Natural’s History renowned mineral collection.

Boochier Flower Puff Campaign
CollectionsMar 25, 2026
Boochier Turns Flower Friendship Bracelets Into Fine Jewelry

The “Flower Puff” collection looks to beaded flower friendship bracelets from childhood, turning the silhouette into nostalgic fine jewelry.

Community for Ethical Jewelry logo
Policies & IssuesMar 25, 2026
Community for Ethical Jewelry to Host Bench Jeweler Shortage Webinar

Set for April 2, the webinar will discuss how the jewelry industry can address the workforce gap.

Lisa Bayer
IndependentsMar 24, 2026
Lisa Bayer, Illustrator and Beloved Member of the Muse Family, Dies at 64

Bayer, founder of Lisa Bayer Designs, is remembered as “a bright light in every room.”

AGTA GemFair Tucson
SourcingMar 24, 2026
AGTA Solidifies Tucson Dates For 2027-2029

The next three editions of AGTA GemFair Tucson will feature a five-day show that includes Sunday.

Tom Heap
WatchesMar 24, 2026
Christie’s Names New Senior Specialist, Watches

Former Sotheby’s executive Tom Heap has taken on the London-based role.

NYPD robbery media
CrimeMar 23, 2026
NYPD Looking for 3 Jewelry Store Robbery Suspects

The group of women allegedly robbed two Catbird stores and one Gorjana location on the afternoon of March 9.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy