AuctionsNov 13, 2024
‘Exceptional’ Burmese Ruby Ring Tops $5M at Auction AuctionsNov 13, 2024
Aga Khan Emerald Sells for $8.8M, Sets Record
The emerald brooch-turned-pendant returned to auction after 55 years, setting a world record for most expensive emerald sold at auction.
The Cartier brooch showcases a 37-carat, square-shaped Colombian emerald circled by a row of 20 marquise-shaped diamonds set in platinum and 18-karat yellow gold. Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan originally commissioned the piece in 1960 as a gift for his wife, Nina Dyer, before being auctioned in 1969, selling to Cleef & Arpels and later, Harry Winston.
Geneva—The Aga Khan emerald sold for more than $8 million Tuesday at Christie’s jewelry auction in Geneva, raising the bar for emeralds at auction.
A buyer paid $8.8 million for the storied stone, slightly above the piece’s estimate of $6 million to $8 million.
“The market for signed vintage jewels and colored gemstones of the highest quality is as strong as it has ever been, and we are very proud to have set a world record for the most expensive emerald ever sold at auction,” said Max Fawcett, Christie’s head of jewelry in Europe.
“We now look to New York, London, and Paris to finish what has been an extraordinary year in a challenging macroeconomic environment.”
Elizabeth Taylor’s emerald and diamond brooch by Bulgari previously held the record for most expensive emerald ever sold at auction when it was purchased for $6.5 million in 2011, Christie’s confirmed Wednesday.
The 18.04-carat Rockefeller emerald, also sold by Christie’s, still holds the price-per-carat record for an emerald sold at auction.
Harry Winston paid $5.5 million for the stone, or $305,000 per carat, in 2017, while the Aga Khan emerald’s per-carat price works out to about $237,838.
The brooch, commissioned by Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan at Cartier Paris in 1960, centers on a 37-carat, square-shaped Colombian emerald surrounded by 20 marquise-shaped diamonds set in platinum and 18-karat yellow gold.
The gemstone shows no indication of clarity enhancement and is of exceptional quality and rarity, according to its report from Swiss gem lab SSEF.
Aga Khan commissioned it as a gift for his wife, British socialite and model Nina Dyer, who wore it to numerous prominent events, said Christie’s.
Dyer was known for her remarkable jewelry collection that epitomized the opulence of her time, and for her love of animals, particularly cats. Earlier this year, Christie’s sold another piece that belonged to Dyer, a “Black Alley Cat” brooch she commissioned from Cartier in 1962.
After her death in 1969, Aga Khan put the emerald brooch up for auction to benefit animal welfare causes in Africa, Asia, and Europe, as stipulated in her will.
Van Cleef & Arpels bought it for $75,000.
The piece later landed in the hands of Harry Winston, who modified it to also be worn as a pendant.
“The emerald brooch is not just a piece of jewelry; it carries with it the stories and charm of a bygone era,” said Fawcett.
Related stories will be right here …
A buyer paid $8.8 million for the storied stone, slightly above the piece’s estimate of $6 million to $8 million.
“The market for signed vintage jewels and colored gemstones of the highest quality is as strong as it has ever been, and we are very proud to have set a world record for the most expensive emerald ever sold at auction,” said Max Fawcett, Christie’s head of jewelry in Europe.
“We now look to New York, London, and Paris to finish what has been an extraordinary year in a challenging macroeconomic environment.”
Elizabeth Taylor’s emerald and diamond brooch by Bulgari previously held the record for most expensive emerald ever sold at auction when it was purchased for $6.5 million in 2011, Christie’s confirmed Wednesday.
The 18.04-carat Rockefeller emerald, also sold by Christie’s, still holds the price-per-carat record for an emerald sold at auction.
Harry Winston paid $5.5 million for the stone, or $305,000 per carat, in 2017, while the Aga Khan emerald’s per-carat price works out to about $237,838.
The brooch, commissioned by Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan at Cartier Paris in 1960, centers on a 37-carat, square-shaped Colombian emerald surrounded by 20 marquise-shaped diamonds set in platinum and 18-karat yellow gold.
The gemstone shows no indication of clarity enhancement and is of exceptional quality and rarity, according to its report from Swiss gem lab SSEF.
Aga Khan commissioned it as a gift for his wife, British socialite and model Nina Dyer, who wore it to numerous prominent events, said Christie’s.
Dyer was known for her remarkable jewelry collection that epitomized the opulence of her time, and for her love of animals, particularly cats. Earlier this year, Christie’s sold another piece that belonged to Dyer, a “Black Alley Cat” brooch she commissioned from Cartier in 1962.
After her death in 1969, Aga Khan put the emerald brooch up for auction to benefit animal welfare causes in Africa, Asia, and Europe, as stipulated in her will.
Van Cleef & Arpels bought it for $75,000.
The piece later landed in the hands of Harry Winston, who modified it to also be worn as a pendant.
“The emerald brooch is not just a piece of jewelry; it carries with it the stories and charm of a bygone era,” said Fawcett.
The Aga Khan emerald brooch was the highlight of Christie’s “Magnificent Jewels” auction, which totaled $54.7 million.
Buyers from 37 countries attended the sale, held at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues. Ninety-two percent of the 103 lots offered found buyers, with 64 percent selling above their highest pre-sale estimates.
When the brooch first went to auction on May 1, 1969, it not only sold for double its estimated price, but marked a significant milestone for Christie’s.
The auction room during the sale of the Aga Khan emerald on May 1, 1969. The “Magnificent Jewels” sale, held at the Hotel Richemond, was the first jewelry auction held in Switzerland.
It was part of Christie’s inaugural “Magnificent Jewels” sale at the Hotel Richemond, which was the first standalone jewelry auction of any international auction house held in Switzerland.
Of the more than 40 lots in the 1969 sale, most were jewels belonging to Dyer. Christie’s said the sale was also a “huge success,” achieving more than CHF 12.7 million ($14.4 million).
“The emerald was breathtaking 55 years ago and is even more admired today,” said Francois Curiel, who is now chairman of Christie’s Europe and was an intern with the auction house in 1969.
“It is so rare to see a jewel of its size and quality and I feel privileged to have had the winning bidder on the phone 55 years later, here in Geneva in 2024.”
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
More on Auctions
The Latest
SourcingJan 28, 2026
Ethical Gem Fair to Debut Designer Showcase in TucsonThe new addition will feature finished jewelry created using “consciously sourced” gemstones.
ColumnistsJan 28, 2026
Peter Smith: Setting the Next Generation Up for SuccessIn his new column, Smith advises playing to your successor's strengths and resisting the urge to become a backseat driver.
SurveysJan 28, 2026
Consumer Confidence Falls Below Pandemic Lows in JanuaryThe index fell to its lowest level since May 2014 amid concerns about the present and the future.
Brought to you by
The MJSA Mentor & Apprenticeship Program: Attracting & Training the Next Generation of Bench JewelersLaunched in 2023, the program will help the passing of knowledge between generations and alleviate the shortage of bench jewelers.
IndependentsJan 28, 2026
Foundrae Heads to Aspen for Latest Store OpeningThe new store in Aspen, Colorado, takes inspiration from a stately library for its intimate yet elevated interior design.
Weekly QuizJan 22, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
FinancialsJan 28, 2026
Tiffany & Co., Bulgari Sales Resilient as LVMH’s 2025 Sales SlipThe brands’ high jewelry collections performed especially well last year despite a challenging environment.
CollectionsJan 27, 2026
De Beers London, GemFair Debut New Collection Highlighting Artisanal DiamondsThe collection marks the first time GemFair’s artisanal diamonds will be brought directly to consumers.
Brought to you by
How Jewelers Can Fight Back Against Cell JammersCriminals are using cell jammers to disable alarms, but new technology like JamAlert™ can stop them.
SourcingJan 27, 2026
GemGuide Launches Pricing for Montana SapphiresThe initial charts are for blue, teal, and green material, each grouped into three charts categorized as good, fine, and extra fine.
TechnologyJan 27, 2026
Clientbook Launches Appointment Booking ToolThe new tool can assign the appropriate associate based on the client or appointment type and automate personalized text message follow-ups.
SourcingJan 26, 2026
Tucson Preview 2026: Earthy Tones and Innovative Shapes Buyers are expected to gravitate toward gemstones that have a little something special, just like last year.
SourcingJan 26, 2026
Angolan Diamond Cos. Join NDC as Rio Tinto, Murowa Exit Endiama and Sodiam will contribute money to the marketing of natural diamonds as new members of the Natural Diamond Council.
MajorsJan 26, 2026
Francesca’s To Close All StoresThe retailer operates more than 450 boutiques across 45 states, according to its website.
MajorsJan 26, 2026
BIJC Names 5 New Board MembersThe new members’ skills span communications, business development, advocacy, and industry leadership.
CollectionsJan 26, 2026
Tiffany & Co. Celebrates 189 Years of Love StoriesThe jeweler’s 2026 Valentine’s Day campaign, “Celebrating Love Stories Since 1837,” includes a short firm starring actress Adria Arjona.
GradingJan 26, 2026
DCA Updates Colored Gemstone CourseThe new features include interactive flashcards and scenario-based roleplay with AI tools.
MajorsJan 23, 2026
Watches of Switzerland Acquires 4-Store Jewelry Chain in TexasFamily-owned jewelry and watch retailer Deutsch & Deutsch has stores in El Paso, Laredo, McAllen, and Victoria.
WatchesJan 23, 2026
Damiani Group to Acquire Baume & MercierThe Italian luxury company purchased the nearly 200-year-old Swiss watch brand from Richemont.
TrendsJan 23, 2026
Martin Katz’s Earrings Call to Mind Wintry Weather Micro-set with hundreds of diamonds, these snowflake earrings recreate “winter’s most elegant silhouette,” and are our Piece of the Week.
MajorsJan 23, 2026
Rembrandt Charms Names New Director of Creative, Brand StrategyElla Blum was appointed to the newly created role.
Supplier BulletinJan 22, 2026
The Rise of Centralized Sourcing in the Colored Gemstone MarketSponsored by RapNet
MajorsJan 22, 2026
Lugano Diamonds Finds a BuyerInvestment firm Enhanced Retail Funding, a division of Gordon Brothers, was the successful bidder.
SourcingJan 22, 2026
De Beers To Release ‘A Diamond Is Forever’ BookIt explores the history of the iconic tagline and the company’s strategy to redefine the role of diamonds in society.
MajorsJan 22, 2026
Swarovski Appoints New North America PresidentRetail veteran Sindhu Culas has stepped into the role.
MajorsJan 22, 2026
Stuller Names New Chief Merchandising, Marketing, Sales OfficerTaylor Burgess, who has been at Stuller since 2013, was promoted to the newly created role.
PodcastsJan 21, 2026
Episode 1: High Gold Prices, the Diamond Dilemma, & What’s NextWas 2025 a good year for jewelers? Did lab-grown diamonds outsell natural? Find out on the first episode of the “My Next Question” podcast.
EditorsJan 21, 2026
6 Jewelry Designers Poised to Have a Breakout Year in 2026Whether you recognize their jewels or are just discovering them now, these designers’ talent and vision make them ones to watch this year.
