AuctionsNov 13, 2024
‘Exceptional’ Burmese Ruby Ring Tops $5M at Auction AuctionsNov 13, 2024
Aga Khan Emerald Sells for $8.8M, Sets Record
The emerald brooch-turned-pendant returned to auction after 55 years, setting a world record for most expensive emerald sold at auction.
The Cartier brooch showcases a 37-carat, square-shaped Colombian emerald circled by a row of 20 marquise-shaped diamonds set in platinum and 18-karat yellow gold. Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan originally commissioned the piece in 1960 as a gift for his wife, Nina Dyer, before being auctioned in 1969, selling to Cleef & Arpels and later, Harry Winston.
Geneva—The Aga Khan emerald sold for more than $8 million Tuesday at Christie’s jewelry auction in Geneva, raising the bar for emeralds at auction.
A buyer paid $8.8 million for the storied stone, slightly above the piece’s estimate of $6 million to $8 million.
“The market for signed vintage jewels and colored gemstones of the highest quality is as strong as it has ever been, and we are very proud to have set a world record for the most expensive emerald ever sold at auction,” said Max Fawcett, Christie’s head of jewelry in Europe.
“We now look to New York, London, and Paris to finish what has been an extraordinary year in a challenging macroeconomic environment.”
Elizabeth Taylor’s emerald and diamond brooch by Bulgari previously held the record for most expensive emerald ever sold at auction when it was purchased for $6.5 million in 2011, Christie’s confirmed Wednesday.
The 18.04-carat Rockefeller emerald, also sold by Christie’s, still holds the price-per-carat record for an emerald sold at auction.
Harry Winston paid $5.5 million for the stone, or $305,000 per carat, in 2017, while the Aga Khan emerald’s per-carat price works out to about $237,838.
The brooch, commissioned by Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan at Cartier Paris in 1960, centers on a 37-carat, square-shaped Colombian emerald surrounded by 20 marquise-shaped diamonds set in platinum and 18-karat yellow gold.
The gemstone shows no indication of clarity enhancement and is of exceptional quality and rarity, according to its report from Swiss gem lab SSEF.
Aga Khan commissioned it as a gift for his wife, British socialite and model Nina Dyer, who wore it to numerous prominent events, said Christie’s.
Dyer was known for her remarkable jewelry collection that epitomized the opulence of her time, and for her love of animals, particularly cats. Earlier this year, Christie’s sold another piece that belonged to Dyer, a “Black Alley Cat” brooch she commissioned from Cartier in 1962.
After her death in 1969, Aga Khan put the emerald brooch up for auction to benefit animal welfare causes in Africa, Asia, and Europe, as stipulated in her will.
Van Cleef & Arpels bought it for $75,000.
The piece later landed in the hands of Harry Winston, who modified it to also be worn as a pendant.
“The emerald brooch is not just a piece of jewelry; it carries with it the stories and charm of a bygone era,” said Fawcett.
Related stories will be right here …
A buyer paid $8.8 million for the storied stone, slightly above the piece’s estimate of $6 million to $8 million.
“The market for signed vintage jewels and colored gemstones of the highest quality is as strong as it has ever been, and we are very proud to have set a world record for the most expensive emerald ever sold at auction,” said Max Fawcett, Christie’s head of jewelry in Europe.
“We now look to New York, London, and Paris to finish what has been an extraordinary year in a challenging macroeconomic environment.”
Elizabeth Taylor’s emerald and diamond brooch by Bulgari previously held the record for most expensive emerald ever sold at auction when it was purchased for $6.5 million in 2011, Christie’s confirmed Wednesday.
The 18.04-carat Rockefeller emerald, also sold by Christie’s, still holds the price-per-carat record for an emerald sold at auction.
Harry Winston paid $5.5 million for the stone, or $305,000 per carat, in 2017, while the Aga Khan emerald’s per-carat price works out to about $237,838.
The brooch, commissioned by Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan at Cartier Paris in 1960, centers on a 37-carat, square-shaped Colombian emerald surrounded by 20 marquise-shaped diamonds set in platinum and 18-karat yellow gold.
The gemstone shows no indication of clarity enhancement and is of exceptional quality and rarity, according to its report from Swiss gem lab SSEF.
Aga Khan commissioned it as a gift for his wife, British socialite and model Nina Dyer, who wore it to numerous prominent events, said Christie’s.
Dyer was known for her remarkable jewelry collection that epitomized the opulence of her time, and for her love of animals, particularly cats. Earlier this year, Christie’s sold another piece that belonged to Dyer, a “Black Alley Cat” brooch she commissioned from Cartier in 1962.
After her death in 1969, Aga Khan put the emerald brooch up for auction to benefit animal welfare causes in Africa, Asia, and Europe, as stipulated in her will.
Van Cleef & Arpels bought it for $75,000.
The piece later landed in the hands of Harry Winston, who modified it to also be worn as a pendant.
“The emerald brooch is not just a piece of jewelry; it carries with it the stories and charm of a bygone era,” said Fawcett.
The Aga Khan emerald brooch was the highlight of Christie’s “Magnificent Jewels” auction, which totaled $54.7 million.
Buyers from 37 countries attended the sale, held at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues. Ninety-two percent of the 103 lots offered found buyers, with 64 percent selling above their highest pre-sale estimates.
When the brooch first went to auction on May 1, 1969, it not only sold for double its estimated price, but marked a significant milestone for Christie’s.
The auction room during the sale of the Aga Khan emerald on May 1, 1969. The “Magnificent Jewels” sale, held at the Hotel Richemond, was the first jewelry auction held in Switzerland.
It was part of Christie’s inaugural “Magnificent Jewels” sale at the Hotel Richemond, which was the first standalone jewelry auction of any international auction house held in Switzerland.
Of the more than 40 lots in the 1969 sale, most were jewels belonging to Dyer. Christie’s said the sale was also a “huge success,” achieving more than CHF 12.7 million ($14.4 million).
“The emerald was breathtaking 55 years ago and is even more admired today,” said Francois Curiel, who is now chairman of Christie’s Europe and was an intern with the auction house in 1969.
“It is so rare to see a jewel of its size and quality and I feel privileged to have had the winning bidder on the phone 55 years later, here in Geneva in 2024.”
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
More on Auctions
The Latest
TrendsJul 31, 2026
These Pieces of the Week Are Sweet Edina Kiss’ “Popsicle” pendant and Karina Choudhrie’s “Ice Cream” charm satisfy that summer craving for a sweet piece of jewelry.
MajorsJul 31, 2026
Macy’s Iconic Red Shopping Bag Sign Torn DownThe massive billboard has been in the same spot on the department store’s Herald Square flagship store for decades.
SourcingJul 31, 2026
Gemfields’ H1 Revenue Jumps 72%The miner’s ruby and emerald auctions brought in a combined $102.9 million.
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying EventsRetailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.
SourcingJul 30, 2026
De Beers Sale in ‘Final, Most Challenging’ Phase, Anglo CEO SaysThe goal is for the De Beers sale to be finished by the second half of 2026, with the subsequent approvals process expected to take a year.
Weekly QuizJul 30, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Policies & IssuesJul 30, 2026
JA Heads Back to Washington as New Wave of Tariffs Takes Effect David Bonaparte, along with Tim Haake and Ronnie VanderLinden, continue to lobby for tariff exemptions for diamonds, gemstones, and pearls.
SurveysJul 30, 2026
Consumer Confidence Slips in JulySurvey respondents were concerned about the rising prices of food and groceries as well as unemployment.
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center StageColored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.
Events & AwardsJul 30, 2026
Vicenzaoro Releases 2026 Education LineupThe trade show, slated for Sept. 4-8 in Vicenza, Italy, will feature sessions on trends, AI, gemology, and manufacturing.
Events & AwardsJul 30, 2026
Hillsborough Show Moves to New Location for 2026The public shopping event featuring art, jewelry, watches, and rare collectibles, will take place in Santa Clara, California, this fall.
EditorsJul 29, 2026
Q&A: The Past and Future of Angola’s Diamond Industry Endiama Commercial Director Elton Escrivão knows people have a lot of misperceptions about Angola. He wants to change that.
MajorsJul 29, 2026
Kevin Reilly Retires After 39 Years in the Jewelry Industry Reilly has been with PGI USA for the last 20 years, leading partnership development and professional education.
FinancialsJul 29, 2026
Kering’s H1 Jewelry Sales Up 14%Boucheron reached record sales while Pomellato found success in its signature collections.
Events & AwardsJul 29, 2026
Lauren Harwell Godfrey Designs a Flag for ArkansasShe was one of more than 120 American designers who created flags for the “United Flags of Fashion” project led by CFDA and Vogue.
ColumnistsJul 28, 2026
Peter Smith: Why Your Job Postings May Be Working Against You Smith reveals the method The Retail Smiths use to help retailers and vendors write better job postings.
FinancialsJul 28, 2026
Tiffany & Co., Bulgari Lead the Way for LVMH in H1LVMH’s jewelry and watch brands outperformed the company’s other divisions in an environment the company described as “disrupted.”
CollectionsJul 28, 2026
Lionheart’s New Collection Unites Spiritual Iconography“Sacred Heart” features symbols like crosses, angel wings, the Star of David, and the evil eye as a representation of coexistence.
Events & AwardsJul 28, 2026
The Edge Funding 2 Scholarships Via 24 Karat Club SEUS The scholarships will go to early-career professionals looking to study gemology, bench work and jewelry design, or store operations.
SurveysJul 27, 2026
Jewelry Leads Luxury Market Amid Stabilization, Bain SaysBain & Company delved into the trends shaping the luxury market, the impact of AI, and more in its recent study.
SourcingJul 27, 2026
‘Rubies’ Goes on Display at Harvard MuseumThe exhibition reveals the gemology, geology, and cultural history of the iconic red gemstone.
Policies & IssuesJul 24, 2026
New Trump Tariffs: What They Mean for Jewelry The new sweeping slate of tariffs impacts 60 countries, including India, China, Thailand, Hong Kong, and the United Arab Emirates.
TrendsJul 24, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Ode to ‘The Odyssey’From coin pendants to diamond shields, these old world-inspired jewels are the perfect accessory for an epic journey.
TrendsJul 24, 2026
Courtney Leidy’s Silk Cord Pendants Center Unexpected Pairings Our Piece of the Week pairs a checkerboard-cut amethyst with an ivy green silk cord.
PodcastsJul 23, 2026
Episode 7: Reinhold Jewelers on the Power of RelationshipsMildred Marcano Abrams and Yael Reinhold join the podcast to talk community connections, holiday plans, and preserving Reinhold’s legacy.
SourcingJul 23, 2026
De Beers’ Production Jumps 88 Percent in Q2 Production also was up in the first half of 2026 but is expected to “substantially” decrease in H2 as two key mines undergo maintenance.
CollectionsJul 23, 2026
Silvia Furmanovich’s New Collection Travels Back to the 1920s“Art Deco” fuses ancestral techniques, rare materials, and modern perspectives as a tribute to the optimism and curiosity of the movement.
IndependentsJul 23, 2026
Sissy's Log Cabin Opens Casino StoreThe jeweler’s newest store is inside Arkansas’ Saracen Casino Resort.
