AuctionsNov 13, 2024
‘Exceptional’ Burmese Ruby Ring Tops $5M at Auction AuctionsNov 13, 2024
Aga Khan Emerald Sells for $8.8M, Sets Record
The emerald brooch-turned-pendant returned to auction after 55 years, setting a world record for most expensive emerald sold at auction.
The Cartier brooch showcases a 37-carat, square-shaped Colombian emerald circled by a row of 20 marquise-shaped diamonds set in platinum and 18-karat yellow gold. Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan originally commissioned the piece in 1960 as a gift for his wife, Nina Dyer, before being auctioned in 1969, selling to Cleef & Arpels and later, Harry Winston.
Geneva—The Aga Khan emerald sold for more than $8 million Tuesday at Christie’s jewelry auction in Geneva, raising the bar for emeralds at auction.
A buyer paid $8.8 million for the storied stone, slightly above the piece’s estimate of $6 million to $8 million.
“The market for signed vintage jewels and colored gemstones of the highest quality is as strong as it has ever been, and we are very proud to have set a world record for the most expensive emerald ever sold at auction,” said Max Fawcett, Christie’s head of jewelry in Europe.
“We now look to New York, London, and Paris to finish what has been an extraordinary year in a challenging macroeconomic environment.”
Elizabeth Taylor’s emerald and diamond brooch by Bulgari previously held the record for most expensive emerald ever sold at auction when it was purchased for $6.5 million in 2011, Christie’s confirmed Wednesday.
The 18.04-carat Rockefeller emerald, also sold by Christie’s, still holds the price-per-carat record for an emerald sold at auction.
Harry Winston paid $5.5 million for the stone, or $305,000 per carat, in 2017, while the Aga Khan emerald’s per-carat price works out to about $237,838.
The brooch, commissioned by Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan at Cartier Paris in 1960, centers on a 37-carat, square-shaped Colombian emerald surrounded by 20 marquise-shaped diamonds set in platinum and 18-karat yellow gold.
The gemstone shows no indication of clarity enhancement and is of exceptional quality and rarity, according to its report from Swiss gem lab SSEF.
Aga Khan commissioned it as a gift for his wife, British socialite and model Nina Dyer, who wore it to numerous prominent events, said Christie’s.
Dyer was known for her remarkable jewelry collection that epitomized the opulence of her time, and for her love of animals, particularly cats. Earlier this year, Christie’s sold another piece that belonged to Dyer, a “Black Alley Cat” brooch she commissioned from Cartier in 1962.
After her death in 1969, Aga Khan put the emerald brooch up for auction to benefit animal welfare causes in Africa, Asia, and Europe, as stipulated in her will.
Van Cleef & Arpels bought it for $75,000.
The piece later landed in the hands of Harry Winston, who modified it to also be worn as a pendant.
“The emerald brooch is not just a piece of jewelry; it carries with it the stories and charm of a bygone era,” said Fawcett.
Related stories will be right here …
A buyer paid $8.8 million for the storied stone, slightly above the piece’s estimate of $6 million to $8 million.
“The market for signed vintage jewels and colored gemstones of the highest quality is as strong as it has ever been, and we are very proud to have set a world record for the most expensive emerald ever sold at auction,” said Max Fawcett, Christie’s head of jewelry in Europe.
“We now look to New York, London, and Paris to finish what has been an extraordinary year in a challenging macroeconomic environment.”
Elizabeth Taylor’s emerald and diamond brooch by Bulgari previously held the record for most expensive emerald ever sold at auction when it was purchased for $6.5 million in 2011, Christie’s confirmed Wednesday.
The 18.04-carat Rockefeller emerald, also sold by Christie’s, still holds the price-per-carat record for an emerald sold at auction.
Harry Winston paid $5.5 million for the stone, or $305,000 per carat, in 2017, while the Aga Khan emerald’s per-carat price works out to about $237,838.
The brooch, commissioned by Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan at Cartier Paris in 1960, centers on a 37-carat, square-shaped Colombian emerald surrounded by 20 marquise-shaped diamonds set in platinum and 18-karat yellow gold.
The gemstone shows no indication of clarity enhancement and is of exceptional quality and rarity, according to its report from Swiss gem lab SSEF.
Aga Khan commissioned it as a gift for his wife, British socialite and model Nina Dyer, who wore it to numerous prominent events, said Christie’s.
Dyer was known for her remarkable jewelry collection that epitomized the opulence of her time, and for her love of animals, particularly cats. Earlier this year, Christie’s sold another piece that belonged to Dyer, a “Black Alley Cat” brooch she commissioned from Cartier in 1962.
After her death in 1969, Aga Khan put the emerald brooch up for auction to benefit animal welfare causes in Africa, Asia, and Europe, as stipulated in her will.
Van Cleef & Arpels bought it for $75,000.
The piece later landed in the hands of Harry Winston, who modified it to also be worn as a pendant.
“The emerald brooch is not just a piece of jewelry; it carries with it the stories and charm of a bygone era,” said Fawcett.
The Aga Khan emerald brooch was the highlight of Christie’s “Magnificent Jewels” auction, which totaled $54.7 million.
Buyers from 37 countries attended the sale, held at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues. Ninety-two percent of the 103 lots offered found buyers, with 64 percent selling above their highest pre-sale estimates.
When the brooch first went to auction on May 1, 1969, it not only sold for double its estimated price, but marked a significant milestone for Christie’s.
The auction room during the sale of the Aga Khan emerald on May 1, 1969. The “Magnificent Jewels” sale, held at the Hotel Richemond, was the first jewelry auction held in Switzerland.
It was part of Christie’s inaugural “Magnificent Jewels” sale at the Hotel Richemond, which was the first standalone jewelry auction of any international auction house held in Switzerland.
Of the more than 40 lots in the 1969 sale, most were jewels belonging to Dyer. Christie’s said the sale was also a “huge success,” achieving more than CHF 12.7 million ($14.4 million).
“The emerald was breathtaking 55 years ago and is even more admired today,” said Francois Curiel, who is now chairman of Christie’s Europe and was an intern with the auction house in 1969.
“It is so rare to see a jewel of its size and quality and I feel privileged to have had the winning bidder on the phone 55 years later, here in Geneva in 2024.”
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
More on Auctions
The Latest
EditorsNov 06, 2026
The Spectrum Pieces I Can’t Stop Thinking AboutFrom a Betta fish brooch to a “dragon’s trove” of zircon eggs, here are seven pieces that’ve stuck with Associate Editor Lauren McLemore.
TrendsNov 06, 2026
Pat Pruitt’s DragonFly Earrings Take Flight on Election NightGroundbreaking New Mexico Governor-elect Deb Haaland wore the earrings, our Piece of the Week, when she declared victory on Tuesday.
MajorsNov 06, 2026
SNL’s Colin Jost Finds the Perfect Gift in Kay Jewelers’ Holiday AdJost goes on an epic journey, traversing rough seas and encountering a cyclops, to discover the perfect holiday gift.
Brought to you by
How Overnight Mountings’ Bridal Builder Makes Custom Engagement Ring Design Easier to SellWith customization becoming more expected in engagement ring shopping, the Bridal Builder makes the process tangible.
Supplier BulletinNov 05, 2026
Winning With GCAL 8X®: What’s Working at the CounterSponsored by GCAL by Sarine
Weekly QuizNov 05, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SurveysNov 05, 2026
What Retailers Should Know About Holiday Shoppers This YearFrom shrinking budgets to AI elves, here are five takeaways from holiday reports by Bain, Adobe, Mastercard, NRF, and insights from YouGov.
CollectionsNov 05, 2026
Judi Powers, Russell Jones Unleash Joy With New CollaborationThe designers combined their talents for Little Pet Portraits, hand-painted miniatures of our best friends set in a piece of jewelry.
Brought to you by
A Diamond Is Forever Launches 2026 Holiday Campaign Championing Natural DiamondsA Diamond Is Forever's holiday campaign reimagines natural diamond icons for a new generation celebrating individuality.
FinancialsNov 05, 2026
Brilliant Earth Continued to Resonate With High-Income Shoppers in Q3Its non-bridal fine jewelry remains the star of the show, recently launching new collections inspired by Elizabeth Taylor and Jane Goodall.
MajorsNov 05, 2026
Ariana Grande Stars In Swarovski’s Holiday Campaign“Joy: The Swarovski Musical” features Ariana Grande as the leading lady in scenes inspired by classic musical montages.
GradingNov 05, 2026
GIA to Offer Next-Day Holiday ServicesThe lab will bring back its complimentary next-day service for some reports starting next week.
CrimeNov 04, 2026
$250K+ in Undeclared Cartier Jewelry Seized at Philadelphia AirportA Pennsylvania woman failed to declare a ring and a bracelet, discarding the boxes and receipts to conceal the purchases, officials said.
FinancialsNov 04, 2026
Pandora’s Q3 Sales Up 7% Amid Focus on DesignNew collections and relevant marketing pushed the company forward, while Pandora’s lab-grown diamond sales continue to lag.
Events & AwardsNov 04, 2026
NYC Jewelry Week 2026 Is the Largest Edition YetThe citywide celebration, slated for Nov. 16-22, is set to host more than 175 events, including live jewelry-making demos.
MajorsNov 04, 2026
Bergdorf Goodman Names New PresidentLanessa Elrod, former president and CEO of Louis Vuitton Americas, has stepped into the role as the retailer celebrates 125 years.
IndependentsNov 03, 2026
Longtime Jewelry Marketer Arthur Klein Dies at 89Klein, who had his own marketing agency and worked for Gabriel & Co. and Trans American Diamond, is remembered as a kind man.
IndependentsNov 03, 2026
Zadok Jewelers Toasts To 50 Years With Diamond Bracelet GiveawayTo enter the giveaway, locals can purchase a featured beverage from one of eight participating restaurants in Houston and Austin, Texas.
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2026
David Yurman Gem Awards Grant Opens 2027 ApplicationsThe grant recipient will be awarded $50,000 as well as mentoring meetings with executives at David Yurman and other industry executives.
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2026
NAJA, Instappraise Name 2026 Scholarship WinnersThe winners include a non-NAJA member seeking training, a member beginning NAJA courses, and a member becoming a Certified Master Appraiser.
CrimeNov 02, 2026
Customs Seizes More Than 400 Fake Audemars Piguet WatchesIt is one of several seizures of counterfeit jewelry and watches by U.S. Customs and Border Protection officials in Louisville this year.
MajorsNov 02, 2026
Lawrence Bock, Caryl Capeci, Amanda Coleman-Phelps Join JA Board Jewelers of America announced the additions to its board of directors following its annual general meeting, held last week.
CollectionsNov 02, 2026
Olympian Kristi Yamaguchi, Heller Jewelers Expand ‘Always Dream’ CollectionThe jewelry collection supports Yamaguchi’s Always Dream foundation, which provides reading and educational resources to families in need.
Events & AwardsOct 30, 2026
Illuminating Carved Paraiba Pendant, Suite of Moonstones Wow at Spectrum AwardsSpectrum’s “Best of Show” honors went to a 101-carat Paraiba carved to look like Medusa that has a magnet-activated LED light.
TrendsOct 30, 2026
Edina Kiss’ Pendants Say ‘Eye’m Watching You’Our Halloween Pieces of the Week are four “Eye” pendants, each set with colorful gemstones.
MajorsOct 30, 2026
The RealReal Hires Former eBay Exec as New Chief Merchandising OfficerAlexis Hoopes expanded eBay’s “Authenticity Guarantee” program during her tenure.
WatchesOct 29, 2026
Bucherer Opens Rolex Boutique in Washington StateThe Rolex-owned retailer’s new 4,700-square-foot store’s façade honors the Pacific Northwest’s evergreen forests.
TrendsOct 29, 2026
Amanda's Style File: All Treats, No Tricks Get into the Halloween spirit with this roundup of 13 spooky jewels.
