AuctionsNov 13, 2024
‘Exceptional’ Burmese Ruby Ring Tops $5M at Auction AuctionsNov 13, 2024
Aga Khan Emerald Sells for $8.8M, Sets Record
The emerald brooch-turned-pendant returned to auction after 55 years, setting a world record for most expensive emerald sold at auction.
The Cartier brooch showcases a 37-carat, square-shaped Colombian emerald circled by a row of 20 marquise-shaped diamonds set in platinum and 18-karat yellow gold. Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan originally commissioned the piece in 1960 as a gift for his wife, Nina Dyer, before being auctioned in 1969, selling to Cleef & Arpels and later, Harry Winston.
Geneva—The Aga Khan emerald sold for more than $8 million Tuesday at Christie’s jewelry auction in Geneva, raising the bar for emeralds at auction.
A buyer paid $8.8 million for the storied stone, slightly above the piece’s estimate of $6 million to $8 million.
“The market for signed vintage jewels and colored gemstones of the highest quality is as strong as it has ever been, and we are very proud to have set a world record for the most expensive emerald ever sold at auction,” said Max Fawcett, Christie’s head of jewelry in Europe.
“We now look to New York, London, and Paris to finish what has been an extraordinary year in a challenging macroeconomic environment.”
Elizabeth Taylor’s emerald and diamond brooch by Bulgari previously held the record for most expensive emerald ever sold at auction when it was purchased for $6.5 million in 2011, Christie’s confirmed Wednesday.
The 18.04-carat Rockefeller emerald, also sold by Christie’s, still holds the price-per-carat record for an emerald sold at auction.
Harry Winston paid $5.5 million for the stone, or $305,000 per carat, in 2017, while the Aga Khan emerald’s per-carat price works out to about $237,838.
The brooch, commissioned by Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan at Cartier Paris in 1960, centers on a 37-carat, square-shaped Colombian emerald surrounded by 20 marquise-shaped diamonds set in platinum and 18-karat yellow gold.
The gemstone shows no indication of clarity enhancement and is of exceptional quality and rarity, according to its report from Swiss gem lab SSEF.
Aga Khan commissioned it as a gift for his wife, British socialite and model Nina Dyer, who wore it to numerous prominent events, said Christie’s.
Dyer was known for her remarkable jewelry collection that epitomized the opulence of her time, and for her love of animals, particularly cats. Earlier this year, Christie’s sold another piece that belonged to Dyer, a “Black Alley Cat” brooch she commissioned from Cartier in 1962.
After her death in 1969, Aga Khan put the emerald brooch up for auction to benefit animal welfare causes in Africa, Asia, and Europe, as stipulated in her will.
Van Cleef & Arpels bought it for $75,000.
The piece later landed in the hands of Harry Winston, who modified it to also be worn as a pendant.
“The emerald brooch is not just a piece of jewelry; it carries with it the stories and charm of a bygone era,” said Fawcett.
Related stories will be right here …
A buyer paid $8.8 million for the storied stone, slightly above the piece’s estimate of $6 million to $8 million.
“The market for signed vintage jewels and colored gemstones of the highest quality is as strong as it has ever been, and we are very proud to have set a world record for the most expensive emerald ever sold at auction,” said Max Fawcett, Christie’s head of jewelry in Europe.
“We now look to New York, London, and Paris to finish what has been an extraordinary year in a challenging macroeconomic environment.”
Elizabeth Taylor’s emerald and diamond brooch by Bulgari previously held the record for most expensive emerald ever sold at auction when it was purchased for $6.5 million in 2011, Christie’s confirmed Wednesday.
The 18.04-carat Rockefeller emerald, also sold by Christie’s, still holds the price-per-carat record for an emerald sold at auction.
Harry Winston paid $5.5 million for the stone, or $305,000 per carat, in 2017, while the Aga Khan emerald’s per-carat price works out to about $237,838.
The brooch, commissioned by Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan at Cartier Paris in 1960, centers on a 37-carat, square-shaped Colombian emerald surrounded by 20 marquise-shaped diamonds set in platinum and 18-karat yellow gold.
The gemstone shows no indication of clarity enhancement and is of exceptional quality and rarity, according to its report from Swiss gem lab SSEF.
Aga Khan commissioned it as a gift for his wife, British socialite and model Nina Dyer, who wore it to numerous prominent events, said Christie’s.
Dyer was known for her remarkable jewelry collection that epitomized the opulence of her time, and for her love of animals, particularly cats. Earlier this year, Christie’s sold another piece that belonged to Dyer, a “Black Alley Cat” brooch she commissioned from Cartier in 1962.
After her death in 1969, Aga Khan put the emerald brooch up for auction to benefit animal welfare causes in Africa, Asia, and Europe, as stipulated in her will.
Van Cleef & Arpels bought it for $75,000.
The piece later landed in the hands of Harry Winston, who modified it to also be worn as a pendant.
“The emerald brooch is not just a piece of jewelry; it carries with it the stories and charm of a bygone era,” said Fawcett.
The Aga Khan emerald brooch was the highlight of Christie’s “Magnificent Jewels” auction, which totaled $54.7 million.
Buyers from 37 countries attended the sale, held at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues. Ninety-two percent of the 103 lots offered found buyers, with 64 percent selling above their highest pre-sale estimates.
When the brooch first went to auction on May 1, 1969, it not only sold for double its estimated price, but marked a significant milestone for Christie’s.
The auction room during the sale of the Aga Khan emerald on May 1, 1969. The “Magnificent Jewels” sale, held at the Hotel Richemond, was the first jewelry auction held in Switzerland.
It was part of Christie’s inaugural “Magnificent Jewels” sale at the Hotel Richemond, which was the first standalone jewelry auction of any international auction house held in Switzerland.
Of the more than 40 lots in the 1969 sale, most were jewels belonging to Dyer. Christie’s said the sale was also a “huge success,” achieving more than CHF 12.7 million ($14.4 million).
“The emerald was breathtaking 55 years ago and is even more admired today,” said Francois Curiel, who is now chairman of Christie’s Europe and was an intern with the auction house in 1969.
“It is so rare to see a jewel of its size and quality and I feel privileged to have had the winning bidder on the phone 55 years later, here in Geneva in 2024.”
More on Auctions
The Latest
ColumnistsJan 21, 2025
Peter Smith: Sales Training’s Dirty Little SecretPeter Smith pulls back the curtain on the often misinterpreted, and sometimes maligned, world of sales training.
TrendsJan 21, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Decadent Mocha MoussePantone’s 2025 Color of the Year takes the form of jewelry through gemstones and enamel that look just as delicious as mocha mousse.
Policies & IssuesJan 21, 2025
These Designers and Retailers Are Raising Money for LA Wildfire Relief From raffles to auctions to donations, the industry is working to aid charities in Los Angeles amid the raging wildfires.
Brought to you by
3 New Year’s Resolutions for Jewelry Lovers The new year feels like a clean slate, inspiring reflection, hope, and the motivation to become better versions of ourselves.
SourcingJan 21, 2025
Diamonds Do Good Adds 2 Board MembersJulia Hackman Chafé and Monica Elias have joined the organization’s board of directors.
Weekly QuizJan 16, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
FinancialsJan 17, 2025
Richemont’s Jewelry Sales Rise 14% in Holiday QuarterThe company, which owns Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, had a record Q3, with sales topping $6 billion.
CollectionsJan 17, 2025
Piece of the Week: Picchiotti’s Transformable ‘Classic Blue and Green’ NecklaceThe necklace features a sapphire drop weighing more than 9 carats that detaches to transform into a ring.
Brought to you by
A Diamond Is Forever Celebrates "Forever Present" Holiday CampaignA Diamond is Forever hosted a holiday celebration in honor of their new marketing campaign, ‘Forever Present.’
MajorsJan 17, 2025
Tiffany & Co., CFDA Name First Winner of Jewelry Designer AwardJameel Mohammed, founder of Afrofuturist brand Khiry, will receive a cash prize and a one-year paid fellowship with Tiffany & Co.
IndependentsJan 16, 2025
Lux Bond & Green to Open Sixth LocationThe 127-year-old jeweler is planning to open a new store in Mystic, Connecticut.
WatchesJan 16, 2025
Timex Launches Collection of National Park WatchesThe watches’ dials feature artwork celebrating the vibrant energy and unique landscapes of six of America’s national parks.
Events & AwardsJan 16, 2025
JCK Las Vegas 2025 Open for RegistrationThe jewelry trade show returns to The Venetian Expo and The Venetian Resort in Las Vegas from June 6 to 9.
EditorsJan 15, 2025
The Jewelry I’d Bid On in Christie’s Iris Apfel AuctionAssociate Editor Natalie Francisco highlights her favorite fashion jewelry pieces from the upcoming “Unapologetically Iris” auction.
MajorsJan 15, 2025
Macy’s to Close 66 Stores as Part of Turnaround StrategyThe closures are part of the retailer’s plan to close 150 locations over a three-year period.
Policies & IssuesJan 15, 2025
JVC Debuts Guide to Americans with Disabilities Act ComplianceThe online guide is available for free and written with the jewelry industry in mind.
Events & AwardsJan 15, 2025
Jose Hess Design Awards Open for SubmissionsThe awards honor the late Jose Hess, a founding member of AJDC and an award-winning jewelry designer.
GradingJan 14, 2025
GIA CEO, President Susan Jacques to Retire at the End of 2025The grading lab said the search for her successor is underway.
ColumnistsJan 14, 2025
Jules Kim: Building Bridges Between Creators and IndustryIn this special op-ed, designer Jules Kim calls on big brands to collaborate with independent creators instead of copying their designs.
GradingJan 14, 2025
Former SSEF Director Henry A. Hänni DiesA pioneering figure in gemology, he is remembered for his spirit of generosity, curiosity, and joy.
FinancialsJan 14, 2025
Signet Jewelers Lowers Q4 Guidance After Holiday Sales Fall ShortThe peak selling days leading up to Christmas did not meet the jewelry retailer’s expectations.
MajorsJan 14, 2025
Edouard Schneider Joins Messika as Chief Brand OfficerSchneider brings over 20 years of luxury and fashion industry experience to his role as a key member of the brand’s global leadership team.
SourcingJan 13, 2025
Zambia Reinstates 15% Export Duty on Precious Gemstones, Shocking GemfieldsGemfields said the Zambian government revoked the 2019 suspension of the tax with no warning.
TechnologyJan 13, 2025
Ultrahuman Unveils Luxury Smart RingWith versions in 18-karat gold and platinum, the wearables company is blending health technology and fine jewelry.
Policies & IssuesJan 13, 2025
Brandee Dallow Elected President of Ethical MetalsmithsThe executive brings more than two decades of industry experience to the role.
IndependentsJan 13, 2025
The Seven Pops Up in Palm BeachThe New York City-based retailer is bringing its curation of jewels to a pop-up shop at Love Binetti in Palm Beach, Florida.
Policies & IssuesJan 10, 2025
Jewelers Relief Fund Reopened to Aid Victims of LA Fires Created by JA and DCA, the fund is collecting money for jewelry businesses damaged by the wildfires in Los Angeles County.
TrendsJan 10, 2025
Piece of the Week: Elsa Jin’s ‘Mozi’ BroochAdrien Brody received his first Golden Globe while wearing the “Mozi” brooch, which depicts a spill of traditional Chinese calligraphy ink.
