AuctionsNov 13, 2024
‘Exceptional’ Burmese Ruby Ring Tops $5M at Auction AuctionsNov 13, 2024
Aga Khan Emerald Sells for $8.8M, Sets Record
The emerald brooch-turned-pendant returned to auction after 55 years, setting a world record for most expensive emerald sold at auction.
The Cartier brooch showcases a 37-carat, square-shaped Colombian emerald circled by a row of 20 marquise-shaped diamonds set in platinum and 18-karat yellow gold. Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan originally commissioned the piece in 1960 as a gift for his wife, Nina Dyer, before being auctioned in 1969, selling to Cleef & Arpels and later, Harry Winston.
Geneva—The Aga Khan emerald sold for more than $8 million Tuesday at Christie’s jewelry auction in Geneva, raising the bar for emeralds at auction.
A buyer paid $8.8 million for the storied stone, slightly above the piece’s estimate of $6 million to $8 million.
“The market for signed vintage jewels and colored gemstones of the highest quality is as strong as it has ever been, and we are very proud to have set a world record for the most expensive emerald ever sold at auction,” said Max Fawcett, Christie’s head of jewelry in Europe.
“We now look to New York, London, and Paris to finish what has been an extraordinary year in a challenging macroeconomic environment.”
Elizabeth Taylor’s emerald and diamond brooch by Bulgari previously held the record for most expensive emerald ever sold at auction when it was purchased for $6.5 million in 2011, Christie’s confirmed Wednesday.
The 18.04-carat Rockefeller emerald, also sold by Christie’s, still holds the price-per-carat record for an emerald sold at auction.
Harry Winston paid $5.5 million for the stone, or $305,000 per carat, in 2017, while the Aga Khan emerald’s per-carat price works out to about $237,838.
The brooch, commissioned by Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan at Cartier Paris in 1960, centers on a 37-carat, square-shaped Colombian emerald surrounded by 20 marquise-shaped diamonds set in platinum and 18-karat yellow gold.
The gemstone shows no indication of clarity enhancement and is of exceptional quality and rarity, according to its report from Swiss gem lab SSEF.
Aga Khan commissioned it as a gift for his wife, British socialite and model Nina Dyer, who wore it to numerous prominent events, said Christie’s.
Dyer was known for her remarkable jewelry collection that epitomized the opulence of her time, and for her love of animals, particularly cats. Earlier this year, Christie’s sold another piece that belonged to Dyer, a “Black Alley Cat” brooch she commissioned from Cartier in 1962.
After her death in 1969, Aga Khan put the emerald brooch up for auction to benefit animal welfare causes in Africa, Asia, and Europe, as stipulated in her will.
Van Cleef & Arpels bought it for $75,000.
The piece later landed in the hands of Harry Winston, who modified it to also be worn as a pendant.
“The emerald brooch is not just a piece of jewelry; it carries with it the stories and charm of a bygone era,” said Fawcett.
Related stories will be right here …
A buyer paid $8.8 million for the storied stone, slightly above the piece’s estimate of $6 million to $8 million.
“The market for signed vintage jewels and colored gemstones of the highest quality is as strong as it has ever been, and we are very proud to have set a world record for the most expensive emerald ever sold at auction,” said Max Fawcett, Christie’s head of jewelry in Europe.
“We now look to New York, London, and Paris to finish what has been an extraordinary year in a challenging macroeconomic environment.”
Elizabeth Taylor’s emerald and diamond brooch by Bulgari previously held the record for most expensive emerald ever sold at auction when it was purchased for $6.5 million in 2011, Christie’s confirmed Wednesday.
The 18.04-carat Rockefeller emerald, also sold by Christie’s, still holds the price-per-carat record for an emerald sold at auction.
Harry Winston paid $5.5 million for the stone, or $305,000 per carat, in 2017, while the Aga Khan emerald’s per-carat price works out to about $237,838.
The brooch, commissioned by Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan at Cartier Paris in 1960, centers on a 37-carat, square-shaped Colombian emerald surrounded by 20 marquise-shaped diamonds set in platinum and 18-karat yellow gold.
The gemstone shows no indication of clarity enhancement and is of exceptional quality and rarity, according to its report from Swiss gem lab SSEF.
Aga Khan commissioned it as a gift for his wife, British socialite and model Nina Dyer, who wore it to numerous prominent events, said Christie’s.
Dyer was known for her remarkable jewelry collection that epitomized the opulence of her time, and for her love of animals, particularly cats. Earlier this year, Christie’s sold another piece that belonged to Dyer, a “Black Alley Cat” brooch she commissioned from Cartier in 1962.
After her death in 1969, Aga Khan put the emerald brooch up for auction to benefit animal welfare causes in Africa, Asia, and Europe, as stipulated in her will.
Van Cleef & Arpels bought it for $75,000.
The piece later landed in the hands of Harry Winston, who modified it to also be worn as a pendant.
“The emerald brooch is not just a piece of jewelry; it carries with it the stories and charm of a bygone era,” said Fawcett.
The Aga Khan emerald brooch was the highlight of Christie’s “Magnificent Jewels” auction, which totaled $54.7 million.
Buyers from 37 countries attended the sale, held at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues. Ninety-two percent of the 103 lots offered found buyers, with 64 percent selling above their highest pre-sale estimates.
When the brooch first went to auction on May 1, 1969, it not only sold for double its estimated price, but marked a significant milestone for Christie’s.
The auction room during the sale of the Aga Khan emerald on May 1, 1969. The “Magnificent Jewels” sale, held at the Hotel Richemond, was the first jewelry auction held in Switzerland.
It was part of Christie’s inaugural “Magnificent Jewels” sale at the Hotel Richemond, which was the first standalone jewelry auction of any international auction house held in Switzerland.
Of the more than 40 lots in the 1969 sale, most were jewels belonging to Dyer. Christie’s said the sale was also a “huge success,” achieving more than CHF 12.7 million ($14.4 million).
“The emerald was breathtaking 55 years ago and is even more admired today,” said Francois Curiel, who is now chairman of Christie’s Europe and was an intern with the auction house in 1969.
“It is so rare to see a jewel of its size and quality and I feel privileged to have had the winning bidder on the phone 55 years later, here in Geneva in 2024.”
More on Auctions
The Latest
MajorsJan 09, 2026
Kendra Scott Taps Activewear Exec as CEO Chris Blakeslee has experience at Athleta and Alo Yoga. Kendra Scott will remain on board as executive chair and chief visionary officer.
SurveysJan 09, 2026
U.S. Holiday Retail Sales Up 4%, Visa, Mastercard SayThe credit card companies’ surveys examined where consumers shopped, what they bought, and what they valued this holiday season.
CollectionsJan 09, 2026
Piece of the Week: Lionheart’s ‘Serenity’ Opal CharmThe “Serenity” charm set with 13 opals is a modern amulet offering protection, guidance, and intention, the brand said.
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow TodayHow Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.
CollectionsJan 08, 2026
Pandora’s New ‘Bridgerton’ Jewels Celebrate Bees, Bows, and Blooms“Bridgerton” actresses Hannah Dodd and Claudia Jessie star in the brand’s “Rules to Love By” campaign.
Weekly QuizJan 08, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Events & AwardsJan 08, 2026
Ana Khouri To Receive 2026 Gem Award for High Jewelry ExcellenceFounded by jeweler and sculptor Ana Khouri, the brand is “expanding the boundaries of what high jewelry can be.”
TrendsJan 08, 2026
Stuller’s Color of the Year Is a Stark Contrast to Pantone’s WhiteThe jewelry manufacturer and supplier is going with a fiery shade it says symbolizes power and transformation.
Brought to you by
Roseco Releases New Full-Line CatalogRoseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.
CollectionsJan 08, 2026
Gracie Abrams To Front New Chanel Jewelry CampaignThe singer-songwriter will make her debut as the French luxury brand’s new ambassador in a campaign for its “Coco Crush” jewelry line.
MajorsJan 08, 2026
Diamond Council of America Names New Board DirectorsThe nonprofit’s new president and CEO, Annie Doresca, also began her role this month.
ColumnistsJan 07, 2026
Peter Smith: Physical Retail—The Beginning or the End?As the shopping mall model evolves and online retail grows, Smith shares his predictions for the future of physical stores.
Events & AwardsJan 07, 2026
Melee Adds 13 New Designers to NYC ShowThe trade show is slated for Jan. 31-Feb. 2 at The Lighthouse in New York City's Chelsea neighborhood.
TrendsJan 07, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Go for GarnetJanuary’s birthstone comes in a rainbow of colors, from the traditional red to orange, purple, and green.
SourcingJan 07, 2026
Diamonds Do Good Releases 2025 Impact ReportThe annual report highlights how it supported communities in areas where natural diamonds are mined, crafted, and sold.
CrimeJan 06, 2026
2 Jewelers Arrested After TraxNYC Diamond District BrawlFootage of a fight breaking out in the NYC Diamond District was viewed millions of times on Instagram and Facebook.
MajorsJan 06, 2026
Rio Grande Says These Are the Top Personalization Tools for 2026The supplier has a curated list of must-have tools for jewelers doing in-house custom work this year.
MajorsJan 06, 2026
Zales Tests Out A New LookThe Signet Jewelers-owned store, which turned 100 last year, calls its new concept stores “The Edit.”
MajorsJan 06, 2026
LeachGarner Appoints New Director of SalesLinda Coutu is rejoining the precious metals provider as its director of sales.
SourcingJan 06, 2026
AGA Announces 2026 BoardThe governing board welcomed two new members, Claire Scragg and Susan Eisen.
TrendsJan 05, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: New Year’s EditionSparkle with festive diamond jewelry as we celebrate the beginning of 2026.
IndependentsJan 05, 2026
Jeweler Ben Nighthorse Campbell Dies at 92The master jeweler, Olympian, former senator, and Korean War veteran founded the brand Nighthorse Jewelry.
TrendsJan 05, 2026
Pinterest 2026 Trend Report: Brooches, Bold Gold, Cool BlueIn its annual report, Pinterest noted an increase in searches for brooches, heirloom jewelry, and ‘80s luxury.
MajorsJan 02, 2026
Marc Metrick Out as CEO of Saks Global Executive Chairman Richard Baker will take over the role as rumors swirl that a bankruptcy filing is imminent for the troubled retailer.
Events & AwardsJan 02, 2026
Jan Mohr, Couture’s ‘North Star,’ Dies at 71Mohr had just retired in June after more than two decades as Couture’s retailer liaison.
SourcingJan 02, 2026
IDCA Elects New President, Board of DirectorsShekhar Shah of Real Gems Inc. will serve as president of the Indian Diamond & Colorstone Association in 2026.
CollectionsJan 02, 2026
Lalaounis’ 2026 Good Luck Charm Speaks to ResilienceThis year’s good luck charm features the mythical horse Pegasus, and is our first Piece of the Week of the new year.
EditorsDec 31, 2025
The Top 5 Stories of 2025Articles about crime, engagement rings, and a necklace worn in the World Series generated the most interest among readers.
