FinancialsNov 08, 2024
Brilliant Earth’s Q3 Sales Fall 13%FinancialsNov 12, 2024
Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels Continue to Shine for Richemont
Richemont’s jewelry sales ticked up 2 percent in the first half of the year, while watch sales plummeted 17 percent.
The “Calla” necklace from Vhernier. Richemont announced its acquisition of the Italian jewelry brand in May and closed the deal in September. Vhernier joins Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Buccellati in Richemont’s jewelry division, which bucked the downward trend of luxury sales in the first half of 2024.
Geneva—Jewelry sales were a bright spot in the first half of the year for Richemont, which saw sales and operating profit decline in what it described as a “challenging macroeconomic and geopolitical context.”
The Geneva-based luxury conglomerate reported Friday that sales for the six-month period ended Sept. 30 totaled €10.1 billion ($10.73 billion), down 1 percent from €10.22 billion ($10.86 billion) a year ago.
Operating profit fell 17 percent year-over-year from €2.66 billion ($2.83 billion) to €2.21 billion ($2.35 billion).
Sales at the jewelry brands owned by the company—Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati, and now Vhernier—continued to grow in the first half, increasing 2 percent at actual and constant exchange rates to €7.1 billion ($7.5 billion).
Operating margin was 33 percent, down from 36 percent in the first half of 2023.
What Richemont described as the jewelry brands’ “limited price increases” were not enough to offset the rising cost of gold, which hovered above $2,600/ounce as of press time.
Richemont’s specialist watchmakers, meanwhile, saw sales plummet 17 percent year-over-year (16 percent at constant exchange rates) to €1.66 billion ($1.76 billion), largely due to weakness in China, Hong Kong, and Macau.
The company’s stable of watch brands includes Jaeger Le-Coultre, and Baume & Mercier.
The divisions Richemont classifies under “Other,” which includes fashion and accessories brands Alaïa and Chloé, Watchfinder, and its watch component manufacturing, saw sales increase 4 percent at both actual and constant exchange rates to €1.33 billion ($1.42 billion).
Region-wise, the Americas was Richemont’s strongest performer, with sales up 11 percent (10 percent at constant exchange rates), driven by the company’s jewelry brands and sales at the stores it owns and operates.
The Americas accounted for 23 percent of Richemont’s total sales in the first half of 2024, up from 21 percent in the prior-year period.
Richemont’s weakest region was Asia-Pacific.
Sales there fell 19 percent year-over-year (18 percent at constant exchange rates), with a 27 percent decline in sales in China, Hong Kong, and Macau overshadowing growth in other markets, like Korea.
Looking at the company’s distribution channels, sales at retail (meaning the stores Richemont owns and operates) increased 2 percent year-over-year (flat at actual exchange rates) and online sales also rose, growing 7 percent at both actual and constant exchange rates.
Retail accounted for 70 percent or Richemont’s total sales, up from 69 percent in the prior-year period, while online sales accounted for 6 percent, slightly higher than last year.
Meanwhile, revenue from wholesale and royalty income declined 6 percent (7 percent at actual exchange rates).
Wholesale now accounts for 24 percent of Richemont’s total group sales, compared with 26 percent last year.
Related stories will be right here …
The Geneva-based luxury conglomerate reported Friday that sales for the six-month period ended Sept. 30 totaled €10.1 billion ($10.73 billion), down 1 percent from €10.22 billion ($10.86 billion) a year ago.
Operating profit fell 17 percent year-over-year from €2.66 billion ($2.83 billion) to €2.21 billion ($2.35 billion).
Sales at the jewelry brands owned by the company—Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati, and now Vhernier—continued to grow in the first half, increasing 2 percent at actual and constant exchange rates to €7.1 billion ($7.5 billion).
Operating margin was 33 percent, down from 36 percent in the first half of 2023.
What Richemont described as the jewelry brands’ “limited price increases” were not enough to offset the rising cost of gold, which hovered above $2,600/ounce as of press time.
Richemont’s specialist watchmakers, meanwhile, saw sales plummet 17 percent year-over-year (16 percent at constant exchange rates) to €1.66 billion ($1.76 billion), largely due to weakness in China, Hong Kong, and Macau.
The company’s stable of watch brands includes Jaeger Le-Coultre, and Baume & Mercier.
The divisions Richemont classifies under “Other,” which includes fashion and accessories brands Alaïa and Chloé, Watchfinder, and its watch component manufacturing, saw sales increase 4 percent at both actual and constant exchange rates to €1.33 billion ($1.42 billion).
Region-wise, the Americas was Richemont’s strongest performer, with sales up 11 percent (10 percent at constant exchange rates), driven by the company’s jewelry brands and sales at the stores it owns and operates.
The Americas accounted for 23 percent of Richemont’s total sales in the first half of 2024, up from 21 percent in the prior-year period.
Richemont’s weakest region was Asia-Pacific.
Sales there fell 19 percent year-over-year (18 percent at constant exchange rates), with a 27 percent decline in sales in China, Hong Kong, and Macau overshadowing growth in other markets, like Korea.
Looking at the company’s distribution channels, sales at retail (meaning the stores Richemont owns and operates) increased 2 percent year-over-year (flat at actual exchange rates) and online sales also rose, growing 7 percent at both actual and constant exchange rates.
Retail accounted for 70 percent or Richemont’s total sales, up from 69 percent in the prior-year period, while online sales accounted for 6 percent, slightly higher than last year.
Meanwhile, revenue from wholesale and royalty income declined 6 percent (7 percent at actual exchange rates).
Wholesale now accounts for 24 percent of Richemont’s total group sales, compared with 26 percent last year.
The first half of 2024 was busy for Geneva-based Richemont, which named a new group CEO.
Nicolas Bos, who was CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels, took over as Richemont CEO in June and joined the company’s senior executive committee.
The following month, the luxury conglomerate announced it had selected a successor to Bos and also named a new head at Cartier, drawing both from its watch brands.
Louis Ferla, CEO of Vacheron Constantin, took over at Cartier for the retiring Cyrille Vigneron, while Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Rénier succeeded Bos at Van Cleef & Arpels.
In September, the company closed on its acquisition of Italian jewelry brand Vhernier and announced the appointment of Buccellati Executive Vice President Gianluca Brozzetti to the brand’s board of directors as executive vice president in an ad-interim CEO role.
When reporting its first-half results Friday, Richemont Chairman Johann Rupert said Vhernier “brings a distinguished and distinctive design that perfectly complements our existing collection of renowned jewelry maisons.”
Looking ahead, Rupert said while he remains “cautious in this uncertain context,” he is confident in the company’s ability to navigate the ups and downs.
“What we are seeing in the world today is not unprecedented,” he said.
“It illustrates just how important it is to have strong leadership with a long-term vision, to continue to invest in our maisons’ excellence in crafting and marketing distinctive and timeless creations, to manage our offer with discipline, and to have an agile structure and solid balance sheet.”
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
More on Financials
The Latest
MajorsFeb 12, 2026
These 8 Saks Fifth Avenue Stores Are ClosingParent company Saks Global is also closing nearly all Saks Off 5th locations, a Neiman Marcus store, and 14 personal styling suites.
CollectionsFeb 12, 2026
British Museum Raises $5M to Keep Jewel Linked to Henry VIII, Katherine of AragonIt is believed the 24-karat heart-shaped enameled pendant was made for an event marking the betrothal of Princess Mary in 1518.
SourcingFeb 12, 2026
‘Cotton Candy’ Necklace, 35-Carat Kunzite Win 2025 ‘Buyer’s Choice’ AwardsThe AGTA Spectrum and Cutting Edge “Buyer’s Choice” award winners were announced at the Spectrum Awards Gala last week.
Brought to you by
The MJSA Mentor & Apprenticeship Program: Attracting & Training the Next Generation of Bench JewelersLaunched in 2023, the program will help the passing of knowledge between generations and alleviate the shortage of bench jewelers.
Events & AwardsFeb 12, 2026
Kering Opens Entries for 2026 Sustainability-Focused AwardThe “Kering Generation Award x Jewelry” returns for its second year with “Second Chance, First Choice” as its theme.
Weekly QuizFeb 05, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
TrendsFeb 11, 2026
Halle Berry’s Retro Engagement Ring Is a Sapphire-Set StunnerSourced by For Future Reference Vintage, the yellow gold ring has a round center stone surrounded by step-cut sapphires.
MajorsFeb 11, 2026
Francesca’s Files for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy AgainThe clothing and accessories chain announced last month it would be closing all of its stores.
Brought to you by
How Jewelers Can Fight Back Against Cell JammersCriminals are using cell jammers to disable alarms, but new technology like JamAlert™ can stop them.
CollectionsFeb 11, 2026
Zales Turns Sweethearts Into Jewelry for Valentine’s Day CollectionThe “Zales x Sweethearts” collection features three mystery heart charms engraved with classic sayings seen on the Valentine’s Day candies.
TechnologyFeb 11, 2026
Gemvision Symposium 2026 Slated for AprilThe event will include panel discussions, hands-on demonstrations of new digital manufacturing tools, and a jewelry design contest.
Events & AwardsFeb 11, 2026
TJS Announces Roundtable, Launches New AppRegistration is now open for The Jewelry Symposium, set to take place in Detroit from May 16-19.
SourcingFeb 10, 2026
At Meeting in South Africa, Support for Natural Diamonds Picks Up Steam Namibia has formally signed the Luanda Accord, while two key industry organizations pledged to join the Natural Diamond Council.
TrendsFeb 10, 2026
Bad Bunny Wears Football-Shaped ‘Desert Diamond’ for Halftime PerformanceLady Gaga, Cardi B, and Karol G also went with diamond jewelry for Bad Bunny’s Super Bowl halftime show honoring Puerto Rico.
SurveysFeb 10, 2026
Shoppers to Spend Big on Jewelry This Valentine’s Day, Says NRFJewelry is expected to be the No. 1 gift this year in terms of dollars spent.
SourcingFeb 10, 2026
AGTA To Debut ‘Stuller Color of the Year’ Spectrum Awards CategoryThe new category asks entrants for “exceptional” interpretations of the supplier’s 2026 color of the year, which is “Signature Red.”
Policies & IssuesFeb 09, 2026
U.S., India Trade Deal One Step Closer to Being FinalizedThe White House issued an official statement on the deal, which will eliminate tariffs on loose natural diamonds and gemstones from India.
Events & AwardsFeb 09, 2026
JA Now Accepting Entries for 2026 CASE AwardsEntries for the jewelry design competition will be accepted through March 20.
IndependentsFeb 09, 2026
James Free Jewelers Unveils Revamped FlagshipThe Ohio jeweler’s new layout features a curated collection of brand boutiques to promote storytelling and host in-store events.
TrendsFeb 09, 2026
These 14 Jewels Will Melt Your Heart This Valentine’s DayFrom heart motifs to pink pearls, Valentine’s Day is filled with jewelry imbued with love.
CrimeFeb 06, 2026
Florida Man Sentenced After Selling Fake Native American Jewelry for a Decade Prosecutors say the man attended arts and craft fairs claiming he was a third-generation jeweler who was a member of the Pueblo tribe.
TrendsFeb 06, 2026
Margot Robbie, Jacob Elordi Wear Matching Cece Jewellery Signet RingsOur Piece of the Week picks are these bespoke rings the “Wuthering Heights” stars have been spotted wearing during the film’s press tour.
MajorsFeb 05, 2026
Pandora to Begin Selling Platinum-Plated JewelryThe introduction of platinum plating will reduce its reliance on silver amid volatile price swings, said Pandora.
SourcingFeb 05, 2026
De Beers Lowers Production Guidance for 2026, Anglo Mulls Another WritedownIt would be the third impairment charge in three years on De Beers Group, which continues to grapple with a “challenging” diamond market.
IndependentsFeb 05, 2026
Borsheims to Undergo Massive Renovation in the Spring The Omaha jewelry store’s multi-million-dollar renovation is scheduled to begin in mid-May and take about six months.
CollectionsFeb 05, 2026
Marco Bicego’s Amethyst Collection Travels to a Purple ParadiseThe “Paradise Amethyst” collection focuses on amethyst, pink tourmaline, garnet, and 18-karat yellow gold beads.
FinancialsFeb 05, 2026
Watches of Switzerland Reports Strong Holiday Results in Q3The retailer credited its Roberto Coin campaign, in part, for boosting its North America sales.
ColumnistsFeb 04, 2026
January Jewelry Sales: More Dollars Spent, Fewer Units Sold Sherry Smith unpacks independent retailers’ January performance and gives tips for navigating the slow-growth year ahead.
