Auctions

Top Lots Don’t Sell at Sotheby’s Signed Jewels Auction

AuctionsMar 12, 2024

Top Lots Don’t Sell at Sotheby’s Signed Jewels Auction

A Harry Winston diamond necklace and other top lots failed to find buyers.

Harry Winston diamond necklace
Several of the top lots at Sotheby’s recent signed jewels sale failed to find buyers, including this platinum and diamond necklace by Harry Winston.
New York—From Cartier “Panthère” to Bulgari “Serpenti” pieces, Sotheby’s recent signed jewels sale featured some of the most recognizable jewelry motifs, but the results weren’t what the auction house had hoped to see.

Held March 7 at Sotheby’s New York, the “From the Vault: Exceptional Signed Jewels” sale showcased more than 200 pieces, garnering around $8.4 million, said Sotheby’s.

Only 51 percent of lots sold.

Asprey yellow diamond necklace
This Asprey yellow diamond necklace had the highest pre-sale estimate of the auction, $2 million to $3 million. It was withdrawn from the sale.


Notably, the lot with the highest pre-sale estimate was withdrawn, Sotheby’s confirmed, though it did not share why.

The 18-karat white gold Asprey necklace and earrings set, composed of 50 graduated fancy vivid yellow round diamonds and one fancy intense yellow round diamond (a total of 55.26 carats) connected by links of pavé-set round diamonds, had a pre-sale estimate of $2 million to $3 million.

Six of the top 10 projected lots in terms of pre-sale estimates did not find buyers at the auction, including a Harry Winston platinum and diamond necklace with a pre-sale estimate of $800,000 to $1.2 million, seen at the top of the story.

A pair of JAR spinel and diamond earclips and a “Twin Frog” bracelet by David Webb also failed to sell.

Yellow diamond ring
This 41.02-carat fancy intense yellow diamond ring was the sale’s top lot.


The top lot was a 41.02-carat cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy intense yellow diamond ring, which sold within its estimated range for $1 million.

Van Cleef & Arpels Zip necklace and earrings
This 1950s Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace with a matching pair of earclips sold for $482,600.


At No. 2 was a Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace and a pair of earclips from the 1950s.

Crafted in 18-karat gold and platinum, the jewels are set with round and single-cut diamonds. The necklace can be converted into a bracelet.

The set sold for $482,600, within its pre-sale estimated range of $400,000 to $600,000.

Bulgari Serpenti diamond necklace
This Bulgari “Serpenti” necklace is set with 141 carats of diamonds.


At No. 3 was a Bulgari “Serpenti” necklace set with 141 carats of round diamonds and pear-shaped diamond eyes.

It sold for $406,400, within its pre-sale estimated range of $300,000 to $500,000.

Van Cleef & Arpels mystery set ruby brooch
This Van Cleef & Arpels ruby and diamond flower brooch sold for $215,900.


Also from Van & Cleef & Arpels was a “mystery set” ruby and diamond clip-brooch. It sold for $215,900, within its pre-sale estimated range of $200,000 to $300,000. 

 Related stories will be right here … 

A Cartier classic, the Panthère cuff bracelet, was up for sale.

Cartier Panthère cuff bracelet
The Cartier Panthère cuff bracelet is “an iconic style [that] remains a holy grail for collectors and continues to be a staple at auction,” said Sotheby’s.


Round diamonds are pavé-set throughout the 18-karat white gold bracelet, while the panther’s head has marquise-shaped emerald eyes and an onyx nose.

The bracelet sold for $114,300, within its pre-sale estimated range of $100,000 to $150,000.

Cartier ladybug brooches set
These carved ladybug brooches by Cartier sold for $38,100.


Also from Cartier was a set of three carved ladybug dress clips, two made of coral and one of turquoise dotted with bezel-set round diamonds and black enamel accents.

The set sold for $38,100, within its pre-sale estimated range of $30,000 to $50,000.

While many of the highlighted lots sold within their estimates, a Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. necklace exceeded expectations.

Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. necklace
This Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. necklace features the designer’s signature cross-stitch motif, said Sotheby’s.


This gold, platinum, and diamond necklace featuring the designer’s signature cross-stitch motif sold for $101,600, well above its pre-sale estimate of $35,000 to $55,000.

The Latest

Gemfields emeralds
SourcingJan 13, 2025
Zambia Reinstates 15% Export Duty on Precious Gemstones, Shocking Gemfields

Gemfields said the Zambian government revoked the 2019 suspension of the tax with no warning.

Woman’s silhouette with smart ring on finger
TechnologyJan 13, 2025
Ultrahuman Unveils Luxury Smart Ring

With versions in 18-karat gold and platinum, the wearables company is blending health technology and fine jewelry.

Brandee Dallow
Policies & IssuesJan 13, 2025
Brandee Dallow Elected President of Ethical Metalsmiths

The executive brings more than two decades of industry experience to the role.

Resolutions - 2025.jpg
Brought to you by
3 New Year’s Resolutions for Jewelry Lovers

The new year feels like a clean slate, inspiring reflection, hope, and the motivation to become better versions of ourselves.

Camille Zarsky and curated necklaces
IndependentsJan 13, 2025
The Seven Pops Up in Palm Beach

The New York City-based retailer is bringing its curation of jewels to a pop-up shop at Love Binetti in Palm Beach, Florida.

Weekly QuizJan 09, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Jewelers Relief Fund logo
Policies & IssuesJan 10, 2025
Jewelers Relief Fund Reopened to Aid Victims of LA Fires

Created by JA and DCA, the fund is collecting money for jewelry businesses damaged by the wildfires in Los Angeles County.

Harwell Godfrey heart pendant
Policies & IssuesJan 10, 2025
Harwell Godfrey, Stephanie Gottlieb Are Raising Money for LA Wildfire Relief

Several jewelry designers are lending a helping hand to charities in Los Angeles amid the raging wildfires.

ride_or_die_1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
A Diamond Is Forever Celebrates "Forever Present" Holiday Campaign

A Diamond is Forever hosted a holiday celebration in honor of their new marketing campaign, ‘Forever Present.’

Elsa Jin Mozi Brooch
TrendsJan 10, 2025
Piece of the Week: Elsa Jin’s ‘Mozi’ Brooch

Adrien Brody received his first Golden Globe while wearing the “Mozi” brooch, which depicts a spill of traditional Chinese calligraphy ink.

Paul Rowley, Sandrine Conseiller, Vipul Shah, and Kirit Bhansali
SourcingJan 10, 2025
De Beers, GJEPC Partner to Promote Natural Diamonds

The pair will work together to support independent retailers in India with marketing assets, training materials, and other tools.

Counterfeit Tiffany & Co. jewelry near U.S. Customs and Border Protection logo
CrimeJan 09, 2025
US Customs Seizes Counterfeit Tiffany & Co. Jewels

Officers in Champlain, New York valued the jewels, if genuine, at nearly $30,000.

Karma El Khalil Meteor Necklace
CollectionsJan 09, 2025
Karma El Khalil’s New Collection is an Ode to the Moon

The “Moonlight Rhapsody” collection is overflowing with gemstones, from raw opal to morganite and spessartite.

AGTA Seminar Series
Events & AwardsJan 09, 2025
Here Is the 2025 AGTA GemFair Tucson Educational Lineup

The seminar series covers topics from market trends and colored stone terminology to working with museums and growing an Instagram profile.

Diamond Trails Reena Ahluwalia
SourcingJan 09, 2025
Reena Ahluwalia Unveils New Works in ‘Diamond Trails’ Anthology

The artist collaborated with industry creatives on the project, which features five fictional stories and five corresponding paintings.

Virginia Jewelers at the Children’s Hospital Foundation Ball
IndependentsJan 09, 2025
Virginia Jewelers Raise Nearly $26K for Children’s Hospital at Charity Ball

Nine jewelers donated jewels for a raffle to support the Children’s Hospital Foundation at Virginia Commonwealth University.

Miss Piggy taking a selfie
WatchesJan 08, 2025
Oris Debuts Hot Pink Miss Piggy Watch

Miss Piggy shared her thoughts on being fabulous, the importance of accessories, and how to be your own cheerleader.

Rings in the Promise by Effy lab-grown diamond jewelry collection
Lab-GrownJan 08, 2025
Effy Introduces Brand Dedicated to Lab-Grown Diamonds

“Promise by Effy” includes fashion jewelry and engagement rings.

Haltom’s Jewelers closing ad
IndependentsJan 08, 2025
Haltom’s Jewelers to Close After 130 Years

The Texas-based jeweler is closing all three locations.

Zendaya and Engagement Ring at 2025 Golden Globes
TrendsJan 08, 2025
Zendaya’s Engagement Ring Combines Vintage and Modern Elements

Zendaya’s ring, featuring an east-west set elongated cushion-cut diamond, is said to be from British designer Jessica McCormack.

National Jeweler columnist Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsJan 07, 2025
The Smart Lab: The Hottest Digital Marketing Trends For 2025

Micro-influencers, customer reviews, and shoppable videos are going to be key to getting customers’ attention, Emmanuel Raheb writes.

Lindsey Scoggins Studio Gypsy Link Ring
TrendsJan 07, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: January Is for Garnet

Garnet is comprised of a group of minerals, giving those with a birthday in January options when it comes to their birthstone.

Huan Tain and staff of Quest Fine Jewelers in Fairfax, Virginia
IndependentsJan 07, 2025
Edge Retail Academy Names 2024 ‘Wag’ Award Winner

The annual award, created in memory of business coach William “Wag” Wagner, went to a retailer in Fairfax, Virginia.

Jewelers for Children round up program on a point of sale machine
MajorsJan 07, 2025
Jewelers for Children Promotes Round-Up Fundraising Program

Retailers and vendors can ask customers to make a donation by rounding up to the next dollar at checkout.

calibrated Lightning Ridge opals
SourcingJan 07, 2025
Columbia Gem House To Debut Lightning Ridge Opal Collection

The wholesaler is partnering with Australian brand Cheal Opal on a new offering of calibrated stones.

Zendaya and Cynthia Erivo
EditorsJan 06, 2025
White Hot: 8 Glamorous Jewelry Looks From the Golden Globes

From Zendaya to Selena Gomez and Zoe Saldaña, many stars at the 82nd Golden Globes were wearing white gold or platinum jewelry.

Stock image of hands with handcuffs on them
CrimeJan 06, 2025
FBI Adds 2 Suspected Jewelry Thieves to Its Wanted List

Described by JSA as being “habitual offenders,” Vasile Sava and Onita Rostas have federal warrants out for their arrest in Kansas.

PDPaola New York store
MajorsJan 06, 2025
PDPaola Opens First U.S. Store

The Barcelona-based brand’s flagship boutique is located in New York City’s West Village neighborhood.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy