Auctions

Top Lots Don’t Sell at Sotheby’s Signed Jewels Auction

AuctionsMar 12, 2024

Top Lots Don’t Sell at Sotheby’s Signed Jewels Auction

A Harry Winston diamond necklace and other top lots failed to find buyers.

Harry Winston diamond necklace
Several of the top lots at Sotheby’s recent signed jewels sale failed to find buyers, including this platinum and diamond necklace by Harry Winston.
New York—From Cartier “Panthère” to Bulgari “Serpenti” pieces, Sotheby’s recent signed jewels sale featured some of the most recognizable jewelry motifs, but the results weren’t what the auction house had hoped to see.

Held March 7 at Sotheby’s New York, the “From the Vault: Exceptional Signed Jewels” sale showcased more than 200 pieces, garnering around $8.4 million, said Sotheby’s.

Only 51 percent of lots sold.

Asprey yellow diamond necklace
This Asprey yellow diamond necklace had the highest pre-sale estimate of the auction, $2 million to $3 million. It was withdrawn from the sale.


Notably, the lot with the highest pre-sale estimate was withdrawn, Sotheby’s confirmed, though it did not share why.

The 18-karat white gold Asprey necklace and earrings set, composed of 50 graduated fancy vivid yellow round diamonds and one fancy intense yellow round diamond (a total of 55.26 carats) connected by links of pavé-set round diamonds, had a pre-sale estimate of $2 million to $3 million.

Six of the top 10 projected lots in terms of pre-sale estimates did not find buyers at the auction, including a Harry Winston platinum and diamond necklace with a pre-sale estimate of $800,000 to $1.2 million, seen at the top of the story.

A pair of JAR spinel and diamond earclips and a “Twin Frog” bracelet by David Webb also failed to sell.

Yellow diamond ring
This 41.02-carat fancy intense yellow diamond ring was the sale’s top lot.


The top lot was a 41.02-carat cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy intense yellow diamond ring, which sold within its estimated range for $1 million.

Van Cleef & Arpels Zip necklace and earrings
This 1950s Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace with a matching pair of earclips sold for $482,600.


At No. 2 was a Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace and a pair of earclips from the 1950s.

Crafted in 18-karat gold and platinum, the jewels are set with round and single-cut diamonds. The necklace can be converted into a bracelet.

The set sold for $482,600, within its pre-sale estimated range of $400,000 to $600,000.

Bulgari Serpenti diamond necklace
This Bulgari “Serpenti” necklace is set with 141 carats of diamonds.


At No. 3 was a Bulgari “Serpenti” necklace set with 141 carats of round diamonds and pear-shaped diamond eyes.

It sold for $406,400, within its pre-sale estimated range of $300,000 to $500,000.

Van Cleef & Arpels mystery set ruby brooch
This Van Cleef & Arpels ruby and diamond flower brooch sold for $215,900.


Also from Van & Cleef & Arpels was a “mystery set” ruby and diamond clip-brooch. It sold for $215,900, within its pre-sale estimated range of $200,000 to $300,000. 

 Related stories will be right here … 

A Cartier classic, the Panthère cuff bracelet, was up for sale.

Cartier Panthère cuff bracelet
The Cartier Panthère cuff bracelet is “an iconic style [that] remains a holy grail for collectors and continues to be a staple at auction,” said Sotheby’s.


Round diamonds are pavé-set throughout the 18-karat white gold bracelet, while the panther’s head has marquise-shaped emerald eyes and an onyx nose.

The bracelet sold for $114,300, within its pre-sale estimated range of $100,000 to $150,000.

Cartier ladybug brooches set
These carved ladybug brooches by Cartier sold for $38,100.


Also from Cartier was a set of three carved ladybug dress clips, two made of coral and one of turquoise dotted with bezel-set round diamonds and black enamel accents.

The set sold for $38,100, within its pre-sale estimated range of $30,000 to $50,000.

While many of the highlighted lots sold within their estimates, a Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. necklace exceeded expectations.

Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. necklace
This Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. necklace features the designer’s signature cross-stitch motif, said Sotheby’s.


This gold, platinum, and diamond necklace featuring the designer’s signature cross-stitch motif sold for $101,600, well above its pre-sale estimate of $35,000 to $55,000.

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