Auctions

Top Lots Don’t Sell at Sotheby’s Signed Jewels Auction

AuctionsMar 12, 2024

Top Lots Don’t Sell at Sotheby’s Signed Jewels Auction

A Harry Winston diamond necklace and other top lots failed to find buyers.

Harry Winston diamond necklace
Several of the top lots at Sotheby’s recent signed jewels sale failed to find buyers, including this platinum and diamond necklace by Harry Winston.
New York—From Cartier “Panthère” to Bulgari “Serpenti” pieces, Sotheby’s recent signed jewels sale featured some of the most recognizable jewelry motifs, but the results weren’t what the auction house had hoped to see.

Held March 7 at Sotheby’s New York, the “From the Vault: Exceptional Signed Jewels” sale showcased more than 200 pieces, garnering around $8.4 million, said Sotheby’s.

Only 51 percent of lots sold.

Asprey yellow diamond necklace
This Asprey yellow diamond necklace had the highest pre-sale estimate of the auction, $2 million to $3 million. It was withdrawn from the sale.


Notably, the lot with the highest pre-sale estimate was withdrawn, Sotheby’s confirmed, though it did not share why.

The 18-karat white gold Asprey necklace and earrings set, composed of 50 graduated fancy vivid yellow round diamonds and one fancy intense yellow round diamond (a total of 55.26 carats) connected by links of pavé-set round diamonds, had a pre-sale estimate of $2 million to $3 million.

Six of the top 10 projected lots in terms of pre-sale estimates did not find buyers at the auction, including a Harry Winston platinum and diamond necklace with a pre-sale estimate of $800,000 to $1.2 million, seen at the top of the story.

A pair of JAR spinel and diamond earclips and a “Twin Frog” bracelet by David Webb also failed to sell.

Yellow diamond ring
This 41.02-carat fancy intense yellow diamond ring was the sale’s top lot.


The top lot was a 41.02-carat cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy intense yellow diamond ring, which sold within its estimated range for $1 million.

Van Cleef & Arpels Zip necklace and earrings
This 1950s Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace with a matching pair of earclips sold for $482,600.


At No. 2 was a Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace and a pair of earclips from the 1950s.

Crafted in 18-karat gold and platinum, the jewels are set with round and single-cut diamonds. The necklace can be converted into a bracelet.

The set sold for $482,600, within its pre-sale estimated range of $400,000 to $600,000.

Bulgari Serpenti diamond necklace
This Bulgari “Serpenti” necklace is set with 141 carats of diamonds.


At No. 3 was a Bulgari “Serpenti” necklace set with 141 carats of round diamonds and pear-shaped diamond eyes.

It sold for $406,400, within its pre-sale estimated range of $300,000 to $500,000.

Van Cleef & Arpels mystery set ruby brooch
This Van Cleef & Arpels ruby and diamond flower brooch sold for $215,900.


Also from Van & Cleef & Arpels was a “mystery set” ruby and diamond clip-brooch. It sold for $215,900, within its pre-sale estimated range of $200,000 to $300,000. 

 Related stories will be right here … 

A Cartier classic, the Panthère cuff bracelet, was up for sale.

Cartier Panthère cuff bracelet
The Cartier Panthère cuff bracelet is “an iconic style [that] remains a holy grail for collectors and continues to be a staple at auction,” said Sotheby’s.


Round diamonds are pavé-set throughout the 18-karat white gold bracelet, while the panther’s head has marquise-shaped emerald eyes and an onyx nose.

The bracelet sold for $114,300, within its pre-sale estimated range of $100,000 to $150,000.

Cartier ladybug brooches set
These carved ladybug brooches by Cartier sold for $38,100.


Also from Cartier was a set of three carved ladybug dress clips, two made of coral and one of turquoise dotted with bezel-set round diamonds and black enamel accents.

The set sold for $38,100, within its pre-sale estimated range of $30,000 to $50,000.

While many of the highlighted lots sold within their estimates, a Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. necklace exceeded expectations.

Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. necklace
This Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. necklace features the designer’s signature cross-stitch motif, said Sotheby’s.


This gold, platinum, and diamond necklace featuring the designer’s signature cross-stitch motif sold for $101,600, well above its pre-sale estimate of $35,000 to $55,000.

The Latest

Daymond John
Events & AwardsApr 18, 2025
Daymond John to Give Keynote at JCK Las Vegas

The entrepreneur and “Shark Tank” star will share his top tips for success.

Dukachi Easter Bread Pendant
CollectionsApr 18, 2025
Piece of the Week: Dukachi’s ‘Easter Bread’ Pendant

The Ukrainian brand’s new pendant is modeled after a traditional paska, a pastry often baked for Easter in Eastern European cultures.

Bremer Jewelry
IndependentsApr 18, 2025
Bremer Jewelry to Reveal Renovated Store

The jeweler has announced a grand reopening for its recently remodeled location in Peoria, Illinois.

gia-topimage 0325.jpg
Brought to you by
A Brilliant Future Is Here

Get online education from GIA experts.

Tiffany & Co. Strong Like Mom campaign
MajorsApr 18, 2025
Tiffany & Co. Employees Star in Mother’s Day Campaign

The “Strong Like Mom” campaign features moms who work at Tiffany & Co. and their children.

Weekly QuizApr 18, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Athena Calderone x John Hardy Collection
CollectionsApr 17, 2025
John Hardy, Athena Calderone Partner on Art Deco Decor-Inspired Collection

Interior designer Athena Calderone looked to decor from the 1920s and 1930s when crafting her first fine jewelry collection.

Movado Connect 2.0 watches
FinancialsApr 17, 2025
Movado Group to Increase Prices to Offset Tariffs Impact

During a call about its full-year results, CEO Efraim Grinberg discussed how the company is approaching the uncertainty surrounding tariffs.

bench jeweler 1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
The Heart of the Industry: Giving Bench Jewelers the Recognition They Deserve

Bench jewelers spend years honing their skills, Jewelers of America’s Certification validates their talents.

Natural Diamond Council Diamond Learning Center Graphic
Lab-GrownApr 17, 2025
NDC Launches Its Diamond Learning Center

The free program provides educational content for jewelry salespeople and enthusiasts to learn or refresh their diamond knowledge.

Jewelers of America logo
Policies & IssuesApr 17, 2025
Jewelers of America Requests Tariffs Testimonials from Members

The feedback will be used to prepare other jewelers for the challenges ahead, the organization said.

Technology Therapy Group logo
TechnologyApr 17, 2025
Technology Therapy Group Expands AI Training for Jewelry Retailers

The online sessions are designed to teach jewelers to use AI tools like ChatGPT and Claude to grow their business.

Catbird Chicago
IndependentsApr 16, 2025
Catbird Expands to Chicago

The opening marks the jewelry retailer’s first location in the Midwest.

Foundrae United in Love Campaign
CollectionsApr 16, 2025
Foundrae’s First Commitment Jewelry Collection Unites Through Love

The “United in Love” collection offers tangible mementos of hearts entwined with traditional and non-traditional commitment heirlooms.

Robert and Rose-Marie Goodman outside Robert Goodman Jewelers
IndependentsApr 16, 2025
Indiana Jeweler to Host Black Jewelry Designer Pop-Up

Robert Goodman Jewelers will hold a “Black Jewelry Designers and Makers” event on April 27.

Womens Jewelry Association WJA logo
MajorsApr 16, 2025
WJA Announces Board Members, New Chicago Chapter President

The announcements follow a tumultuous start to 2025 for WJA, which saw a wave of resignations following controversial statements about DEI.

Stock image of shipping containers
EditorsApr 15, 2025
Tariffs: What We Know Right Now

Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff answers questions about how the new taxes levied on countries like India and China will impact the industry.

Botswana Minster of Minerals and Energy Bogolo Joy Kenewendo
EditorsApr 15, 2025
Q&A: Bogolo Joy Kenewendo on Making Deals, Marketing Diamonds

Kenewendo, Botswana’s minster of minerals and energy, discusses closing the deal with De Beers and the work that was missed along the way.

Bulgari Eden the Garden of Wonders ad
FinancialsApr 15, 2025
LVMH’s Q1 Sales Slip 2 Percent

LVMH CFO Cécile Cabanis also discussed the effects of tariffs so far.

Screenshot from new Jon Hamm series on Apple TV+, Your Friends and Neighbors
CrimeApr 15, 2025
Jon Hamm Plays a Jewel Thief on Apple TV+

The “Mad Men” and “The Morning Show” star steals jewelry, art, and handbags from his wealthy neighbors in “Your Friends & Neighbors.”

Kalpesh Jhaveri
SourcingApr 15, 2025
Diamond Club West Coast Names 2025 Board

The organization has reelected Kalpesh Jhaveri as president.

Two Movado Connect 2.0 watches
FinancialsApr 14, 2025
Movado to Restate Years of Financials Due to ‘Misconduct’ in Dubai

An investigation found that the former managing director of Movado’s Dubai branch overstated and prematurely recorded sales.

Sauer Balance Earrings in Ma Campaign
CollectionsApr 14, 2025
Sauer Embraces Emptiness Through ‘Ma’ Collection

The collection pays tribute to the Japanese philosophy of Ma, studying balance, stillness, and the interplay between presence and absence.

Mari Lous Fine Jewelry
IndependentsApr 14, 2025
Illinois Jeweler Closing After 45 Years

Mari Lou’s Fine Jewelry in Orland Park, a suburb of Chicago, is closing its doors.

GIA logo
GradingApr 14, 2025
GIA Expands Overseas Services as Tariffs Kick In

GIA’s labs in Dubai and Hong Kong are now accepting larger diamonds in light of the “logistical challenges” presented by the new tariffs.

My Next Question webinar graphic
Recorded WebinarsApr 11, 2025
Watch: Top Tips for Saving Time With AI

Two experts share how artificial intelligence tools can help retailers run a more efficient business.

Kentaro Nishimura
SourcingApr 11, 2025
Mikimoto Names New President, CEO for U.S. Division

Kentaro Nishimura, who has been with the pearl company since 1997, has been promoted to president and CEO of Mikimoto America.

America Telling Time: 150 Years of Bulova
WatchesApr 11, 2025
Bulova Documentary Now on Amazon Prime

“America Telling Time: 150 Years of Bulova” explores the storied history of the American watchmaker.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy