Auctions

Top Lots Don’t Sell at Sotheby’s Signed Jewels Auction

AuctionsMar 12, 2024

Top Lots Don’t Sell at Sotheby’s Signed Jewels Auction

A Harry Winston diamond necklace and other top lots failed to find buyers.

Harry Winston diamond necklace
Several of the top lots at Sotheby’s recent signed jewels sale failed to find buyers, including this platinum and diamond necklace by Harry Winston.
New York—From Cartier “Panthère” to Bulgari “Serpenti” pieces, Sotheby’s recent signed jewels sale featured some of the most recognizable jewelry motifs, but the results weren’t what the auction house had hoped to see.

Held March 7 at Sotheby’s New York, the “From the Vault: Exceptional Signed Jewels” sale showcased more than 200 pieces, garnering around $8.4 million, said Sotheby’s.

Only 51 percent of lots sold.

Asprey yellow diamond necklace
This Asprey yellow diamond necklace had the highest pre-sale estimate of the auction, $2 million to $3 million. It was withdrawn from the sale.


Notably, the lot with the highest pre-sale estimate was withdrawn, Sotheby’s confirmed, though it did not share why.

The 18-karat white gold Asprey necklace and earrings set, composed of 50 graduated fancy vivid yellow round diamonds and one fancy intense yellow round diamond (a total of 55.26 carats) connected by links of pavé-set round diamonds, had a pre-sale estimate of $2 million to $3 million.

Six of the top 10 projected lots in terms of pre-sale estimates did not find buyers at the auction, including a Harry Winston platinum and diamond necklace with a pre-sale estimate of $800,000 to $1.2 million, seen at the top of the story.

A pair of JAR spinel and diamond earclips and a “Twin Frog” bracelet by David Webb also failed to sell.

Yellow diamond ring
This 41.02-carat fancy intense yellow diamond ring was the sale’s top lot.


The top lot was a 41.02-carat cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy intense yellow diamond ring, which sold within its estimated range for $1 million.

Van Cleef & Arpels Zip necklace and earrings
This 1950s Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace with a matching pair of earclips sold for $482,600.


At No. 2 was a Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace and a pair of earclips from the 1950s.

Crafted in 18-karat gold and platinum, the jewels are set with round and single-cut diamonds. The necklace can be converted into a bracelet.

The set sold for $482,600, within its pre-sale estimated range of $400,000 to $600,000.

Bulgari Serpenti diamond necklace
This Bulgari “Serpenti” necklace is set with 141 carats of diamonds.


At No. 3 was a Bulgari “Serpenti” necklace set with 141 carats of round diamonds and pear-shaped diamond eyes.

It sold for $406,400, within its pre-sale estimated range of $300,000 to $500,000.

Van Cleef & Arpels mystery set ruby brooch
This Van Cleef & Arpels ruby and diamond flower brooch sold for $215,900.


Also from Van & Cleef & Arpels was a “mystery set” ruby and diamond clip-brooch. It sold for $215,900, within its pre-sale estimated range of $200,000 to $300,000. 

 Related stories will be right here … 

A Cartier classic, the Panthère cuff bracelet, was up for sale.

Cartier Panthère cuff bracelet
The Cartier Panthère cuff bracelet is “an iconic style [that] remains a holy grail for collectors and continues to be a staple at auction,” said Sotheby’s.


Round diamonds are pavé-set throughout the 18-karat white gold bracelet, while the panther’s head has marquise-shaped emerald eyes and an onyx nose.

The bracelet sold for $114,300, within its pre-sale estimated range of $100,000 to $150,000.

Cartier ladybug brooches set
These carved ladybug brooches by Cartier sold for $38,100.


Also from Cartier was a set of three carved ladybug dress clips, two made of coral and one of turquoise dotted with bezel-set round diamonds and black enamel accents.

The set sold for $38,100, within its pre-sale estimated range of $30,000 to $50,000.

While many of the highlighted lots sold within their estimates, a Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. necklace exceeded expectations.

Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. necklace
This Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. necklace features the designer’s signature cross-stitch motif, said Sotheby’s.


This gold, platinum, and diamond necklace featuring the designer’s signature cross-stitch motif sold for $101,600, well above its pre-sale estimate of $35,000 to $55,000.

The Latest

Chouette Designs Margaux Ring
CollectionsJun 12, 2026
Chouette Designs To Launch Collection Celebrating All Types of Love

Our Pride Month Piece of the Week, the “Margaux” ring, is part of the wife-and-wife team’s new “Lovestoned” collection.

CBG logo
Events & AwardsJun 12, 2026
CBG Announces Plans for Phoenix Show

The group has named the keynote speaker and announced a new pavilion for its next event, which is slated for September.

A selection of animal jewelry
EditorsJun 11, 2026
This Was the Best Animal Jewelry in Las Vegas

From lions and hippos to snails and fish, Senior Editor Lenore Fedow wrangles her picks for cutest jewelry critters in Las Vegas.

PG-05-SHOT-2-LUCIDA.033 1.png
Brought to you by
All Eyes on Gold Prices. Alternatives to Look For. And What to BEWARE of in Vegas

As gold prices rise, today’s retailers are looking for alternatives at prices that will appeal to wider audiences.

Grandview Klein diamonds
SourcingJun 11, 2026
Grandview Klein, London Jewelers Partner To Cut 63-Carat Rough

The big stone will be fashioned into a 20.26-carat diamond in celebration of the retailer’s 100th anniversary this year.

Weekly QuizJun 11, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Marie-Laure Cérède
MajorsJun 11, 2026
Former Cartier Creative Director To Head Chanel’s Jewelry Creation Studio

Marie-Laure Cérède will join Chanel as the new director of its jewelry creation studio, starting in October.

Smiling Rocks booth at JCK Las Vegas 2026
Lab-GrownJun 11, 2026
Smiling Rocks’ ‘Wish Jar’ Generates 100+ Wishes in Las Vegas

At the JCK show, the lab-grown diamond brand teamed up with Jewelers for Children to support Make-A-Wish India.

1872x1052-NextGem-2026-National-Jeweler-Advertorial.jpg
Brought to you by
How Modern Training Is Becoming a Competitive Advantage for Jewelry Retailers

With the trade and customer trust in mind, GIA® developed NextGem™ – on-demand training designed specifically for retail.

Ilana McCabe
SourcingJun 11, 2026
Signet Jewelers Exec Joins Diamonds Do Good Board

Ilana McCabe is Signet’s vice president of public relations and brand communications.

Saks Fifth Avenue New York City storefront
MajorsJun 10, 2026
Saks Global Receives Bankruptcy Court Approval for Reorganization

The approval means the retailer is on track to exit bankruptcy proceedings this summer.

Jalen Javon Davis and Leslie La Vun Jones II
CrimeJun 10, 2026
2 Suspects Arrested in Texas Jewelry Store Robbery

The men are believed to be part of the group of several masked suspects that robbed Marc Robinson Jewelers in April.

Sylvie Levine wearing engagement ring
CollectionsJun 10, 2026
Sylvie Debuts ‘Elevated’ Bridal Collection Inspired By Designer’s Ring

The bridal-focused brand is also launching its Custom Atelier this summer, a digital custom design tool for its authorized retailers.

De Beers Group CEO Al Cook
EditorsJun 09, 2026
Q&A: Al Cook on the Lab-Grown ‘Bubble,’ Dwindling Diamond Supply

The De Beers Group CEO also discussed tariffs, Desert Diamonds, and the pending sale of De Beers in an interview with Michelle Graff.

Russ Whitehouse
MajorsJun 09, 2026
Wilkerson's Russ Whitehouse Retires

The industry veteran is bringing his 56-year run in the fine jewelry sector to an end.

Pride in the Industry LGBTQ+ Voices in Jewelry panel
Events & AwardsJun 09, 2026
Pride Month Panel to Highlight LGBTQ+ Jewelry Voices

The panel discussion will feature LGBTQ+ leaders across the jewelry, luxury, and creative industries.

Marie Lichtenberg Smash Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsJun 09, 2026
Marie Lichtenberg’s New Capsule Collection Is a Smash, Literally

Inspired by a locket that got run over, the “Smash” capsule collection reimagines the shape of Lichtenberg’s signature style.

Katherine Whitacre
MajorsJun 09, 2026
Frederick Goldman Names Director of Sales for Southeast

The company has promoted Katherine Whitacre to the role.

Collage of new Stuller items
MajorsJun 08, 2026
Stuller Expands Selection of Lab-Grown Diamonds, Demi-Fine Jewelry

The jewelry manufacturer has added Taylor Swift-esque diamond shapes, and more silver, gold vermeil, and gold-plated jewelry.

De Beers Group’s Sally Morrison
SourcingJun 08, 2026
Sally Morrison to Depart De Beers This Summer

Morrison has been marketing diamonds on and off since the early 2000s and said she is leaving to “pursue new projects.”

Lauren K Gemma pendant
TrendsJun 08, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: June’s Birthstone Trio

Those born in June can celebrate with pearl, alexandrite, and moonstone jewelry.

Overnight Mountings Ring Builder Platform
TechnologyJun 08, 2026
Overnight Mountings Launches Ring Builder Platform

The platform allows retailers to guide clients through a customizable engagement ring buying experience in a branded interface.

Dunkelberger’s Fine Jewelry
IndependentsJun 05, 2026
Pennsylvania Jewelry Store To Close After 79 Years

Jim Springer, owner of Dunkelberger’s Fine Jewelry, is heading into retirement.

Stock image of a person shopping at the grocery store
SurveysJun 05, 2026
Consumers to Cut Back on Spending Amid Rising Prices, Survey Shows

When conducting its May consumer confidence survey, The Conference Board asked extra questions about consumers’ budgeting strategies.

Rebel Jewelry Tunnel Charm
CollectionsJun 05, 2026
Rebel Jewelry’s Charm Symbolizes Perseverance for Pride Month

The “Tunnel” charm, our Piece of the Week, celebrates Pride Month with its design inspired by hope and the light at the end of the tunnel.

Three gold rings set with yellow- and brown-hued diamonds
SourcingJun 05, 2026
State of Diamonds: The Way Forward for Natural Diamonds

The jewelry industry is reassessing its positioning as Gen Z reshapes the retail landscape and lab grown continues to gain market share.

A Marvelous Journey: The Collection of Maurice Tempelsman
AuctionsJun 04, 2026
Treasures from Maurice Tempelsman’s ‘Marvelous’ Life Head to Auction

Up for auction at Sotheby’s, the collection of Tempelsman’s personal effects includes a Cartier Tank watch Jackie O. gifted him.

Dakota Badia and Nancy Badia
CollectionsJun 04, 2026
Buddha Mama to Spend the Summer in Aspen

The Miami-based fine jewelry brand will host its first summer residency in the Colorado mountain town from June 5 to Aug. 23.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy