Auctions

Top Lots Don’t Sell at Sotheby’s Signed Jewels Auction

AuctionsMar 12, 2024

Top Lots Don’t Sell at Sotheby’s Signed Jewels Auction

A Harry Winston diamond necklace and other top lots failed to find buyers.

Harry Winston diamond necklace
Several of the top lots at Sotheby’s recent signed jewels sale failed to find buyers, including this platinum and diamond necklace by Harry Winston.
New York—From Cartier “Panthère” to Bulgari “Serpenti” pieces, Sotheby’s recent signed jewels sale featured some of the most recognizable jewelry motifs, but the results weren’t what the auction house had hoped to see.

Held March 7 at Sotheby’s New York, the “From the Vault: Exceptional Signed Jewels” sale showcased more than 200 pieces, garnering around $8.4 million, said Sotheby’s.

Only 51 percent of lots sold.

Asprey yellow diamond necklace
This Asprey yellow diamond necklace had the highest pre-sale estimate of the auction, $2 million to $3 million. It was withdrawn from the sale.


Notably, the lot with the highest pre-sale estimate was withdrawn, Sotheby’s confirmed, though it did not share why.

The 18-karat white gold Asprey necklace and earrings set, composed of 50 graduated fancy vivid yellow round diamonds and one fancy intense yellow round diamond (a total of 55.26 carats) connected by links of pavé-set round diamonds, had a pre-sale estimate of $2 million to $3 million.

Six of the top 10 projected lots in terms of pre-sale estimates did not find buyers at the auction, including a Harry Winston platinum and diamond necklace with a pre-sale estimate of $800,000 to $1.2 million, seen at the top of the story.

A pair of JAR spinel and diamond earclips and a “Twin Frog” bracelet by David Webb also failed to sell.

Yellow diamond ring
This 41.02-carat fancy intense yellow diamond ring was the sale’s top lot.


The top lot was a 41.02-carat cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy intense yellow diamond ring, which sold within its estimated range for $1 million.

Van Cleef & Arpels Zip necklace and earrings
This 1950s Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace with a matching pair of earclips sold for $482,600.


At No. 2 was a Van Cleef & Arpels “Zip” necklace and a pair of earclips from the 1950s.

Crafted in 18-karat gold and platinum, the jewels are set with round and single-cut diamonds. The necklace can be converted into a bracelet.

The set sold for $482,600, within its pre-sale estimated range of $400,000 to $600,000.

Bulgari Serpenti diamond necklace
This Bulgari “Serpenti” necklace is set with 141 carats of diamonds.


At No. 3 was a Bulgari “Serpenti” necklace set with 141 carats of round diamonds and pear-shaped diamond eyes.

It sold for $406,400, within its pre-sale estimated range of $300,000 to $500,000.

Van Cleef & Arpels mystery set ruby brooch
This Van Cleef & Arpels ruby and diamond flower brooch sold for $215,900.


Also from Van & Cleef & Arpels was a “mystery set” ruby and diamond clip-brooch. It sold for $215,900, within its pre-sale estimated range of $200,000 to $300,000. 

 Related stories will be right here … 

A Cartier classic, the Panthère cuff bracelet, was up for sale.

Cartier Panthère cuff bracelet
The Cartier Panthère cuff bracelet is “an iconic style [that] remains a holy grail for collectors and continues to be a staple at auction,” said Sotheby’s.


Round diamonds are pavé-set throughout the 18-karat white gold bracelet, while the panther’s head has marquise-shaped emerald eyes and an onyx nose.

The bracelet sold for $114,300, within its pre-sale estimated range of $100,000 to $150,000.

Cartier ladybug brooches set
These carved ladybug brooches by Cartier sold for $38,100.


Also from Cartier was a set of three carved ladybug dress clips, two made of coral and one of turquoise dotted with bezel-set round diamonds and black enamel accents.

The set sold for $38,100, within its pre-sale estimated range of $30,000 to $50,000.

While many of the highlighted lots sold within their estimates, a Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. necklace exceeded expectations.

Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. necklace
This Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. necklace features the designer’s signature cross-stitch motif, said Sotheby’s.


This gold, platinum, and diamond necklace featuring the designer’s signature cross-stitch motif sold for $101,600, well above its pre-sale estimate of $35,000 to $55,000.

The Latest

CD Peacock Mansion in Oak Brook, Illinois
EditorsNov 22, 2024
Out & About: Inside the CD Peacock Mansion

Step inside the nearly 21,000-square-foot suburban Chicago jewelry store with Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff.

Xander Jane earrings
CollectionsNov 22, 2024
Piece of the Week: Xander Jane’s ‘Spiked’ Pearl Studs

These punk-inspired earrings from the new Canadian brand’s debut collection reveal the alter ego of the classic pearl.

Facets of Fire Pear and Marquise Diamonds
SourcingNov 22, 2024
Facets of Fire Expands to Include Pear, Marquise Diamonds

The company brings its nanotechnology to two new fancy cuts for diamonds that feature its signature color and brilliance.

Jewelers Mutual Group Cybersecurity
Brought to you by
Navigating Cybersecurity: Essential Guidance for Jewelers

From protecting customer data to safeguarding inventory records, it's crucial to learn how to tackle cybersecurity challenges.

5 main.jpg
Supplier BulletinNov 21, 2024
Tasha R Releases 2025 Labbelle Lab Diamond Jewelry Catalog

Sponsored by Tasha R

Weekly QuizNov 21, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Harris Jewelry storefront
MajorsNov 21, 2024
Harris Jewelry Ordered to Reopen Claims Portal for Refund Requests

A federal court found that the jewelry store chain violated terms of the settlement reached after it was accused of defrauding customers.

Cynthia Erivo wearing Have a Heart x Cynthia Erivo collection
CollectionsNov 21, 2024
Channel Elphaba in Muse’s ‘Have a Heart x Cynthia Erivo’ Collection

Cynthia Erivo chose Dreams of Hope, an organization dedicated to empowering LGBTQA+ youth, as the charity for this year’s collection.

Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Enhance Your Expertise with IGI’s In-Person Courses in NYC

This fall, sharpen your skills in jewelry grading, quality control and diamond assessment.

Rocksbox San Francisco store
MajorsNov 21, 2024
Rocksbox Opens Pop-Up Store in San Francisco

The new space was designed to evoke a warm, inviting vibe.

Mary Moses Kinney
IndependentsNov 21, 2024
Mary Moses Kinney Is Now Part of The Edge’s Team

Kinney, who spent nearly 30 years at IJO, has been hired to head Abbott Jewelry Systems’ new virtual marketplace.

Sotheby’s New York building
CrimeNov 20, 2024
Sotheby’s to Pay $6.25M Settlement to NY State for Alleged Tax Fraud

The auction house was accused of helping clients avoid paying taxes on millions of dollars’ worth of art purchased from 2010 to 2020.

Kering logo
Events & AwardsNov 20, 2024
Kering Debuts New Jewelry Award With Sustainability Focus

The four finalists will present their pieces at the 2025 JCK Las Vegas show.

Model wearing pieces from Camera Oscura collection
CollectionsNov 20, 2024
Pamela Love Channels Surrealist Artists in New Collection

The “Camera Oscura” collection showcases earring designs celebrating female Surrealist artists Claude Cahun and Leonor Fini.

Columbia Gem House “Pebbles to Pines” fundraiser
Policies & IssuesNov 20, 2024
Columbia Gem House Raises $10K for Reforestation Efforts

The money will fund the planting of 10,000 trees in critical areas across Oregon, Arizona, Montana, and other regions.

The jewelry symposium 2025
Events & AwardsNov 20, 2024
The Jewelry Symposium Opens Registration, Scholarship Applications

The event centered on advancing jewelry manufacturing technology will return to Detroit in May 2025.

Stock image of police cars with lights on
CrimeNov 19, 2024
Woman Killed in Armed Robbery of Sacramento Jewelry Store

Local reports identified the woman as the wife of the jewelry store owner.

Trove NYC flagship exterior
MajorsNov 19, 2024
Trove Opens First US Flagship in NYC

The Australian jewelry box brand’s new West Village store will showcase new jewelers each month through its Designer in Residence program.

Snoop Dogg and Carolyn Rafaelian
CollectionsNov 19, 2024
Snoop Dogg’s New Jewelry Collection Is All About Love

“Lovechild” was created in partnership with Carolyn Rafaelian’s Metal Alchemist brand.

Helzberg CEO Brad Hampton
EditorsNov 18, 2024
Q&A: Helzberg CEO Brad Hampton on the Jeweler’s Rebrand

Hampton discussed how Helzberg is improving the customer experience and why it was inspired by the company formerly known as Dunkin’ Donuts.

Andrea Jose jewelry
Policies & IssuesNov 18, 2024
Reciprocity Jewels Returns to NYC Jewelry Week

The group will host several curated events and an exhibition of designer jewelry made with Peruvian gold traceable to the miners’ names.

Dolly Parton and Kendra Scott
CollectionsNov 18, 2024
Dolly Parton Shines in Collaboration with Kendra Scott

The collection honors the 50th anniversary of Dolly Parton’s “Love is Like a Butterfly” song, which shares a birth year with Kendra Scott.

IGI Expressions
Events & AwardsNov 18, 2024
IGI Jewelry Design Competition Returns

This year’s theme asks designers to take inspiration from classic fairy tales.

New York Comic Con Javits Center crowd
EditorsNov 15, 2024
Why Fine Jewelry Belongs at New York Comic Con

Senior Editor Lenore Fedow makes the case for why more jewelers should be appealing to nerds at the annual event.

Marie Lichtenberg and Raiz’in collection
CollectionsNov 15, 2024
Marie Lichtenberg Battles Counterfeits with New ‘Raiz’in Scapular’ Designs

The latest “Raiz’in” drop showcases a newly designed “Scapular” necklace and donates a portion of the proceeds to Make-A-Wish France.

Citizen 100th Anniversary Limited Edition #1 Pocket Watch
WatchesNov 15, 2024
Piece of the Week: Citizen’s Commemorative Pocket Watch

No. 1 out of 100, the timepiece was created to mark Citizen’s 100th anniversary and will be auctioned off at Sotheby’s next month.

My Next Question store security episode
Recorded WebinarsNov 15, 2024
Watch: 10 Tips to Keep Your Jewelry Store Secure

On the latest episode of “My Next Question,” two experts share best practices for store security during the holidays and year-round.

18th century diamond necklace
AuctionsNov 14, 2024
18th-Century Diamond Necklace Sells for Nearly $5M

Sotheby’s sold the necklace, which potentially has ties to Marie-Antoinette, for $4.8 million to a woman bidding via phone.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy