Auctions

Verdura Cuff, Burmese Sapphire Shine at Bonhams

AuctionsDec 06, 2023

Verdura Cuff, Burmese Sapphire Shine at Bonhams

Several other colored gemstones joined the pieces in the top 10 list.

A 1930s gem-set and enamel ‘Maltese cross’ cuff attributed to Verdura for Chanel (left) and a loose cushion-cut Burmese sapphire weighing 11.87 carats (right) were the top lots in Bonhams New York Jewels auction this week.
New York—A rare 1930s Verdura for Chanel cuff and a Burmese sapphire were the stars of the Bonhams New York Jewels sale on Monday, both selling above their pre-sale estimates.

The gem-set and enamel “Maltese Cross” cuff nearly doubled the high end of its pre-sale estimate, selling for $432,300.

The cuff bangle was designed in 1935 by Sicilian designer Fulco di Verdura, who had just returned to Paris after a year in the United States to resume work with Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel.

Later in the decade, “First Lady of American Theater” actress and the first woman to achieve EGOT status, Helen Hayes MacArthur, received the piece as a gift from her husband.

The cuff had remained in the family for the entire time before selling at auction this week, still in the original box and in “pristine condition,” Bonhams said.

Maltese cross cuff by Verdura for Chanel
The rare gem-set and enamel ‘Maltese cross’ cuff by Verdura for Chanel, designed in 1935, sold for nearly double the high end of its pre-sale estimate.


The sapphire, an 11.87-carat loose cushion-cut from the estate of the late coin collector Stewart Blay, sold for $660,900, triple its pre-sale estimate. 

The 21-lot collection that belonged to Blay, in total, more than doubled its pre-sale estimate of $724,300, achieving $1.5 million.

In total, the 257-lot sale garnered $7.4 million with 88 percent sold by lot and 97 percent sold by value.
 
“The New York Jewelry sale saw impressive results for the fancy diamonds together with the exceptional collection of colored gemstones,” said Caroline Morrissey, Bonhams director and head of jewelry, New York.

“The rare 1930s Chanel gem-set and enamel ‘Maltese cross’ cuff attributed to Verdura for Chanel formerly owned by American actress Helen Hayes MacArthur achieved double its pre-sale estimate. It was an honor to bring such a rare piece with impeccable provenance to auction for the first time.”

 Related stories will be right here … 

Other highlights of the sale include a 3.91-carat cushion-cut Kashmir sapphire, also from the Blay collection, which achieved $343,400, more than its pre-sale estimate.

Kashmir sapphire
A 3.91-carat loose Kashmir sapphire from the Stewart Blay estate



Several diamond and colored diamond pieces were also up for sale, including a three-stone fancy intense blue diamond ring, which sold for $381,500, within its estimate of $300,000 to $500,000.

blue diamond ring
A three-stone ring featuring a 1.22-carat fancy intense blue diamond center stone with VSI clarity, and on the sides, a 0.35-carat fancy blue diamond and a 0.53-carat fancy intense blue diamond, both with VS2 clarity


A ring featuring a 6.59-carat emerald-cut diamond accented with colorless and yellow-tinted diamonds sold above its high estimate of $180,000, garnering $203,700.

From the same collection, another ring, featuring a 2.03-carat cushion-cut fancy pink diamond accented with colorless and pink-tinted diamonds sold for $305,300, also achieving above its high estimate, which was $220,000.


Other notable colored diamonds include a 1.37-carat fancy intense purplish pink diamond, a ring featuring a 1.30-carat fancy brownish red diamond, and a necklace featuring a 17.04-carat fancy intense yellow diamond.

The Latest

Anza Gems gemstones
SourcingJan 28, 2026
Ethical Gem Fair to Debut Designer Showcase in Tucson

The new addition will feature finished jewelry created using “consciously sourced” gemstones.

National Jeweler columnist and jewelry sales expert Peter Smith
ColumnistsJan 28, 2026
Peter Smith: Setting the Next Generation Up for Success

In his new column, Smith advises playing to your successor's strengths and resisting the urge to become a backseat driver.

Hand holding shopping bags
SurveysJan 28, 2026
Consumer Confidence Falls Below Pandemic Lows in January

The index fell to its lowest level since May 2014 amid concerns about the present and the future.

MJSA Apprenticeship Guide
Brought to you by
The MJSA Mentor & Apprenticeship Program: Attracting & Training the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

Launched in 2023, the program will help the passing of knowledge between generations and alleviate the shortage of bench jewelers.

Foundrae Aspen Store
IndependentsJan 28, 2026
Foundrae Heads to Aspen for Latest Store Opening

The new store in Aspen, Colorado, takes inspiration from a stately library for its intimate yet elevated interior design.

Weekly QuizJan 22, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Bulgari Gioco di Forme e Colori watch and brooch
FinancialsJan 28, 2026
Tiffany & Co., Bulgari Sales Resilient as LVMH’s 2025 Sales Slip

The brands’ high jewelry collections performed especially well last year despite a challenging environment.

GemFair x DBL Toi et Moi Ring
CollectionsJan 27, 2026
De Beers London, GemFair Debut New Collection Highlighting Artisanal Diamonds

The collection marks the first time GemFair’s artisanal diamonds will be brought directly to consumers.

JamAlert 1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
How Jewelers Can Fight Back Against Cell Jammers

Criminals are using cell jammers to disable alarms, but new technology like JamAlert™ can stop them.

Montana sapphire
SourcingJan 27, 2026
GemGuide Launches Pricing for Montana Sapphires

The initial charts are for blue, teal, and green material, each grouped into three charts categorized as good, fine, and extra fine.

Clientbook
TechnologyJan 27, 2026
Clientbook Launches Appointment Booking Tool

The new tool can assign the appropriate associate based on the client or appointment type and automate personalized text message follow-ups.

Columbia Gem House celestial shapes
SourcingJan 26, 2026
Tucson Preview 2026: Earthy Tones and Innovative Shapes

Buyers are expected to gravitate toward gemstones that have a little something special, just like last year.

Diamond center in Saurimo, Angola
SourcingJan 26, 2026
Angolan Diamond Cos. Join NDC as Rio Tinto, Murowa Exit

Endiama and Sodiam will contribute money to the marketing of natural diamonds as new members of the Natural Diamond Council.

Francesca’s boutique
MajorsJan 26, 2026
Francesca’s To Close All Stores

The retailer operates more than 450 boutiques across 45 states, according to its website.

Thomas Davis, Monalisa DePina, Jamie Batiste, Namwezi Nicole Batumike, Lavina Hunt-Lewis
MajorsJan 26, 2026
BIJC Names 5 New Board Members

The new members’ skills span communications, business development, advocacy, and industry leadership.

Tiffany & Co. Celebrating Love Stories Since 1837 Campaign
CollectionsJan 26, 2026
Tiffany & Co. Celebrates 189 Years of Love Stories

The jeweler’s 2026 Valentine’s Day campaign, “Celebrating Love Stories Since 1837,” includes a short firm starring actress Adria Arjona.

DCA colored gemstone course
GradingJan 26, 2026
DCA Updates Colored Gemstone Course

The new features include interactive flashcards and scenario-based roleplay with AI tools.

Deutsch & Deutsch jewelers team
MajorsJan 23, 2026
Watches of Switzerland Acquires 4-Store Jewelry Chain in Texas

Family-owned jewelry and watch retailer Deutsch & Deutsch has stores in El Paso, Laredo, McAllen, and Victoria.

Baume & Mercier Riviera 10812 pink watch
WatchesJan 23, 2026
Damiani Group to Acquire Baume & Mercier

The Italian luxury company purchased the nearly 200-year-old Swiss watch brand from Richemont.

Martin Katz snowflake earrings
TrendsJan 23, 2026
Martin Katz’s Earrings Call to Mind Wintry Weather

Micro-set with hundreds of diamonds, these snowflake earrings recreate “winter’s most elegant silhouette,” and are our Piece of the Week.

Ella Blum
MajorsJan 23, 2026
Rembrandt Charms Names New Director of Creative, Brand Strategy

Ella Blum was appointed to the newly created role.

National-Jeweler_1872x1502_B copy.png
Supplier BulletinJan 22, 2026
The Rise of Centralized Sourcing in the Colored Gemstone Market

Sponsored by RapNet

Lugano Diamonds Greenwich Connecticut store
MajorsJan 22, 2026
Lugano Diamonds Finds a Buyer

Investment firm Enhanced Retail Funding, a division of Gordon Brothers, was the successful bidder.

A Diamond Is Forever book
SourcingJan 22, 2026
De Beers To Release ‘A Diamond Is Forever’ Book

It explores the history of the iconic tagline and the company’s strategy to redefine the role of diamonds in society.

Sindhu Culas
MajorsJan 22, 2026
Swarovski Appoints New North America President

Retail veteran Sindhu Culas has stepped into the role.

Taylor Burgess
MajorsJan 22, 2026
Stuller Names New Chief Merchandising, Marketing, Sales Officer

Taylor Burgess, who has been at Stuller since 2013, was promoted to the newly created role.

My Next Question podcast with Sherry Smith and Edahn Golan
PodcastsJan 21, 2026
Episode 1: High Gold Prices, the Diamond Dilemma, & What’s Next

Was 2025 a good year for jewelers? Did lab-grown diamonds outsell natural? Find out on the first episode of the “My Next Question” podcast.

Jules Kim of Bijules, Sophie Howard of By Pariah, Jade Ruzzo, Joy Haugaard of Lionheart, Vanessa Fernández of Vanessa Fernández Studio, Hiba Husayni of Zahn-Z
EditorsJan 21, 2026
6 Jewelry Designers Poised to Have a Breakout Year in 2026

Whether you recognize their jewels or are just discovering them now, these designers’ talent and vision make them ones to watch this year.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy