CollectionsNov 13, 2023
Piece of the Week: Le Vian’s ‘Mare Azzurro’ EarringsCollectionsNov 17, 2023
Piece of the Week: A Verdura for Chanel Cuff From the ‘30s
Up for auction at Bonhams next month, the rare enamel and gem-set cuff is considered the star of the sale.
Next month, Bonhams New York will auction a rare gem-set “Maltese Cross” cuff attributed to Verdura for Chanel and owned by the first woman to achieve EGOT status, Helen Hayes MacArthur.
Next month, Bonhams New York will auction a rare gem-set “Maltese Cross” cuff attributed to Verdura for Chanel and owned by the first woman to achieve EGOT status, Helen Hayes MacArthur.
Fulco di Verdura met Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel in 1925 and came to work for her in 1927, originally as a textile designer.
After artfully redesigning a couple of pieces of jewelry Coco had received from ex-lovers, Verdura had a new job—designing jewelry for Chanel. It was a job he held for eight years before opening his open boutique in New York City in 1939.
His Maltese cross cuff in particular was a hit—Harper’s Bazaar described at the time as the “accessory choice for every outfit”—and became the hallmark of the Verdura brand.
Chanel stores sell costume versions of the Maltese Cross cuff to this day.
Fulco di Verdura met Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel in 1925 and came to work for her in 1927, originally as a textile designer.
After artfully redesigning a couple of pieces of jewelry Coco had received from ex-lovers, Verdura had a new job—designing jewelry for Chanel. It was a job he held for eight years before opening his open boutique in New York City in 1939.
His Maltese cross cuff in particular was a hit—Harper’s Bazaar described at the time as the “accessory choice for every outfit”—and became the hallmark of the Verdura brand.
Chanel stores sell costume versions of the Maltese Cross cuff to this day.
Another view of the gem-set and enamel Verdura for Chanel cuff that was owned by actress Helen Hayes MacArthur
MacArthur (center) is pictured wearing the cuff in this undated photo. (Photo credit: Getty Images)
This particular example is ivory-colored enamel over silver and features a sugarloaf amethyst surrounded by cabochon emeralds, and round- and oval-cut diamonds, rubies, and sapphires.
MacArthur received it as a gift from her husband in the 1930s.
Known as the “First Lady of American Theater,” MacArthur was a star of stage and screen whose career spanned eight decades; she made her theater debut as a young girl in 1905 and was on TV until the mid-1980s.
Her roles garnered her multiple Oscar and Tony awards, as well as a Primetime Emmy and a Grammy award for Best Spoken Word Album in 1977.
She died in 1993 at age 92.
Bonham said her cuff, which has remained in the same family the entire time, is coming to market for the first time. It is in its original box and is in “amazing condition,” the auction house said.
The Maltese Cross cuff is expected to sell for $125,000 to $225,000 when it goes up for auction at Bonhams’ Dec. 4 New York jewelry sale.
Caroline Morrissey, Bonhams director and head of jewelry in New York, called the cuff “the star of the sale.”
“It is an honor to bring such a rare piece with impeccable provenance to auction for the first time,” she said.
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2023
Piece of the Week: A Little Aloha 
TrendsOct 27, 2023
Piece of the Week: Cicada’s Witchy BroochMore on Collections
The Latest
IndependentsMar 06, 2025
Wixon Jewelers to Close After 37 YearsFirst-generation jewelers Dan and Hope Wixon are retiring and will close their Minneapolis-area jewelry store in May.
IndependentsMar 06, 2025
Stephen Barnes Is the New Owner of IJOAfter more than 50 years, Jeff Roberts is handing over ownership of the organization to IJO President Stephen Barnes.
Events & AwardsMar 06, 2025
Borsheims’ ‘Ike-It’ Award Goes to JewelerSenior Jeweler Jay Wolff was named employee of the year.
Brought to you by
Have a Plan for EmergenciesEmergencies can happen anytime, anywhere , and Jewelers of America has what you need to be prepared for it all.
MajorsMar 05, 2025
Neiman Marcus’ Dallas Flagship Store to Close, Confirms Saks GlobalThe 111-year-old store will close following a dispute among Saks Global, a landlord, and the City of Dallas over a small piece of land.
Weekly QuizMar 06, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
AuctionsMar 05, 2025
Sotheby's To Auction 51 ‘Alien’ WatchesThe upcoming “Area_51” watch sale is a collaboration with heist-out, featuring vintage and modern timepieces with futuristic designs.
MajorsMar 05, 2025
Jewelers of America Unveils 3-Year Strategic Plan The trade organization, which will mark 120 years of service next year, has a refined focus and a new mission statement.
Brought to you by
A Diamond ETF is the Way to Reinvigorate Natural Diamond SalesThe jewelry industry faces challenges from lab-grown diamonds. A diamond ETF can restore natural diamonds' value and drive investor demand.
Events & AwardsMar 05, 2025
92NY Accepting 2025 Jewelry Artist Residency ApplicationsThe application period is now open for established and emerging jewelers and metalsmiths to apply to the month-long residency program.
CrimeMar 04, 2025
4 Suspects Arrested in Fatal Armed Robbery of California Jewelry Store Uc Thí Vo, who co-owned Kim Tin Jewelry in Sacramento with her husband of 40 years, was killed during the November 2024 robbery.
CrimeMar 04, 2025
NYC Diamond Dealer Pleads Guilty to Lab-Grown Diamond SwapsManashe Sezanayev pleaded guilty to grand larceny and is expected to receive five years’ probation when he’s sentenced in May.
TrendsMar 04, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Peaceful and Powerful AquamarineThe March birthstone pairs perfectly with hues of Mocha Mousse, Pantone’s Color of the Year for 2025.
ColumnistsMar 04, 2025
The Smart Lab: Using Online Events to Supercharge Sales Emmanuel Raheb shares strategies to prepare for, publicize, and engage the audience during events on platforms like TikTok and Zoom.
EditorsMar 03, 2025
Drop Necklaces, Archival Pieces Take Over at the 2025 OscarsFrom Doja Cat to Mikey Madison and Selena Gomez, many of this year’s Academy Awards attendees donned drop necklaces.
Policies & IssuesMar 03, 2025
Customs Indefinitely Postpones Requirement to Disclose Country of MiningOriginally slated to take effect in April, official U.S. Customs and Border Protection documents now show the implementation date as “TBD.”
SurveysMar 03, 2025
Consumer Confidence Fell in February Amid Concerns About the FutureThe recent jump in the prices of household staples, like eggs, and the potential impact of tariffs worried consumers.
Events & AwardsMar 03, 2025
AGA Now Accepting Applications for Its Gemological Education Scholarship The application period for the program is now open for aspiring gemologists around the world.
AuctionsFeb 28, 2025
300-Year-Old Ring With Ties to Witch Trial Judge Up for Auction A metal detectorist uncovered the ring created in memory of Sir Richard Rainsford, who presided over some of England’s last witch trials.
Recorded WebinarsFeb 28, 2025
Watch: 2025 Jewelry Trends ForecastFine jewelry consultant and publicist Francesca Simons joins Amanda Gizzi and Natalie Francisco to discuss the trends set to rise this year.
TrendsFeb 27, 2025
Model Winnie Harlow Says ‘Yes’ to 3-Stone Engagement RingHarlow’s partner, NBA player Kyle Kuzma, worked with Vobara to design the ring, which features oval and pear-shaped diamonds.
MajorsFeb 27, 2025
Winona Ryder, Iman Star in New Pandora CampaignThe Danish jeweler released the next chapter of its “Be Love” campaign, which celebrates love in all its forms.
SourcingFeb 27, 2025
Gemfields Holds Mini Auction for Higher-Quality EmeraldsThe 13 lots on offer were comprised of material that previously went unsold at the miner’s November auction.
Events & AwardsFeb 27, 2025
JA to Host Workshop During Alabama Jewelers Association ConventionThe learning workshop and the convention are both scheduled to take place April 26 and 27 in Montgomery, Alabama.
Policies & IssuesFeb 26, 2025
EU Once Again Pushes Back Deadline on Diamond Traceability The EU, like the U.S., also now will require diamond importers to provide information about where exactly the diamonds were mined.
SourcingFeb 26, 2025
De Beers, Botswana Make New Diamond Sales Deal OfficialThe formal signing of the agreement comes nearly two years after De Beers and Botswana initially announced they had reached a new deal.
Events & AwardsFeb 26, 2025
JFC Names 2025 ‘Facets’ HonoreesThe charity will celebrate Pandora CEO Alexander Lacik and Brilliant Earth CEO Beth Gerstein at its annual event in Las Vegas.
ColumnistsFeb 25, 2025
Peter Smith: Here’s What I Think Retailers need to have the right merchandise, marketing, and people in place to stay on top in a sea of uncertainty, Peter Smith writes.
