CollectionsNov 13, 2023
Piece of the Week: Le Vian’s ‘Mare Azzurro’ EarringsCollectionsNov 17, 2023
Piece of the Week: A Verdura for Chanel Cuff From the ‘30s
Up for auction at Bonhams next month, the rare enamel and gem-set cuff is considered the star of the sale.
Next month, Bonhams New York will auction a rare gem-set “Maltese Cross” cuff attributed to Verdura for Chanel and owned by the first woman to achieve EGOT status, Helen Hayes MacArthur.
Next month, Bonhams New York will auction a rare gem-set “Maltese Cross” cuff attributed to Verdura for Chanel and owned by the first woman to achieve EGOT status, Helen Hayes MacArthur.
Fulco di Verdura met Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel in 1925 and came to work for her in 1927, originally as a textile designer.
After artfully redesigning a couple of pieces of jewelry Coco had received from ex-lovers, Verdura had a new job—designing jewelry for Chanel. It was a job he held for eight years before opening his open boutique in New York City in 1939.
His Maltese cross cuff in particular was a hit—Harper’s Bazaar described at the time as the “accessory choice for every outfit”—and became the hallmark of the Verdura brand.
Chanel stores sell costume versions of the Maltese Cross cuff to this day.
Fulco di Verdura met Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel in 1925 and came to work for her in 1927, originally as a textile designer.
After artfully redesigning a couple of pieces of jewelry Coco had received from ex-lovers, Verdura had a new job—designing jewelry for Chanel. It was a job he held for eight years before opening his open boutique in New York City in 1939.
His Maltese cross cuff in particular was a hit—Harper’s Bazaar described at the time as the “accessory choice for every outfit”—and became the hallmark of the Verdura brand.
Chanel stores sell costume versions of the Maltese Cross cuff to this day.
Another view of the gem-set and enamel Verdura for Chanel cuff that was owned by actress Helen Hayes MacArthur
MacArthur (center) is pictured wearing the cuff in this undated photo. (Photo credit: Getty Images)
This particular example is ivory-colored enamel over silver and features a sugarloaf amethyst surrounded by cabochon emeralds, and round- and oval-cut diamonds, rubies, and sapphires.
MacArthur received it as a gift from her husband in the 1930s.
Known as the “First Lady of American Theater,” MacArthur was a star of stage and screen whose career spanned eight decades; she made her theater debut as a young girl in 1905 and was on TV until the mid-1980s.
Her roles garnered her multiple Oscar and Tony awards, as well as a Primetime Emmy and a Grammy award for Best Spoken Word Album in 1977.
She died in 1993 at age 92.
Bonham said her cuff, which has remained in the same family the entire time, is coming to market for the first time. It is in its original box and is in “amazing condition,” the auction house said.
The Maltese Cross cuff is expected to sell for $125,000 to $225,000 when it goes up for auction at Bonhams’ Dec. 4 New York jewelry sale.
Caroline Morrissey, Bonhams director and head of jewelry in New York, called the cuff “the star of the sale.”
“It is an honor to bring such a rare piece with impeccable provenance to auction for the first time,” she said.
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2023
Piece of the Week: A Little Aloha 
TrendsOct 27, 2023
Piece of the Week: Cicada’s Witchy BroochMore on Collections
The Latest
MajorsMay 20, 2025
Annie Doresca to Lead DCA as New CEO, PresidentCurrent Diamond Council of America President and CEO Terry Chandler is set to retire in January 2026.
FinancialsMay 20, 2025
QVC Group to Voluntarily Delist from NasdaqThe company's Series A shares will continue to trade following a reverse stock split while its Series B shares will be delisted.
ColumnistsMay 20, 2025
Peter Smith: Leading Through ChangeCommunicating clearly with your staff is key to navigating turbulent times, writes columnist Peter Smith.
Brought to you by
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show: Showcasing the Most Collectible Merchandise from Across the GlobeGain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.
IndependentsMay 20, 2025
Luis Morais Opens Flagship, Launches Collection Celebrating 25 YearsThe “Inner Journey” collection debuted as the brand celebrated its 25th anniversary, with designs inspired by Morais’ journey.
Weekly QuizMay 15, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
MajorsMay 20, 2025
Tanishq Opens Seventh U.S. StoreTanishq is expanding its presence in the United States with a new store in Santa Clara, California, which is its largest in the country.
FinancialsMay 19, 2025
Jewelry Sales a Standout for Richemont in 2024Sales for Richemont’s four jewelry brands increased 8 percent, while watch sales picked up toward the end of the year.
Brought to you by
Watch: The Winston Red: GIA Examines the Smithsonian’s Newest AdditionSupplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA
Events & AwardsMay 19, 2025
NAJA Opens Scholarship Applications for 2025Two scholarships are available, one for new and non-members and another for NAJA certified members.
IndependentsMay 19, 2025
Day’s Jewelers to Open Ninth LocationThe retailer’s new flagship is set to open in October at the Tuscan Village development in Salem, New Hampshire.
SourcingMay 19, 2025
State of Colored Stones: The Big Three in the Modern WorldSapphires, emeralds, and rubies are finding their place in a U.S. market captivated by the gemstones once referred to as “semi-precious.”
MajorsMay 16, 2025
Saks Fifth Avenue, Amazon Partner on Luxury Online StorefrontPlus, parent company Saks Global announces plans to cut ties with up to 600 vendors.
Recorded WebinarsMay 16, 2025
Watch: Physical Retail Is Not DeadPeter Smith joined Michelle Graff to chat about the state of brick-and-mortar stores and share a few book and podcast recommendations.
Supplier BulletinMay 15, 2025
Treasure Hunting at the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry and Watch ShowSponsored by the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry and Watch Show
AuctionsMay 15, 2025
'The Mediterranean Blue' Diamond Sells for $21M at Sotheby’sA private American collector purchased the 10-carat fancy vivid blue diamond.
SourcingMay 15, 2025
Tariffs Take Toll on India’s Gem and Jewelry Industry in April The country’s gem and jewelry exports fell 5 percent year-over-year last month, while imports declined 18 percent.
Policies & IssuesMay 15, 2025
State of Retail: How to Better Serve Customers With DisabilitiesAround 54 million Americans and counting live with a disability. Here’s how to make your jewelry store and website more accessible.
Events & AwardsMay 15, 2025
Poet Sekou Andrews to Give Closing Keynote at ConvergeThe event is also accepting poster submissions now through June 16.
Policies & IssuesMay 14, 2025
Here’s What Happened to Pope Francis’ RingBefore Pope Leo XIV was elected, a centuries-old procedure regarding the late pontiff’s ring was followed.
AuctionsMay 14, 2025
Custom Rolex Pulled From Sotheby’s SaleThe one-of-a-kind platinum Rolex Cosmograph Daytona was estimated to fetch up to $1.7 million.
Lab-GrownMay 14, 2025
State of Diamonds: What’s Next for Lab-Grown Diamonds?While the product has entrenched itself in the market, retailers and consultants are assessing the next phase of the category’s development.
CrimeMay 14, 2025
Seattle Detectives Seek Public’s Help in Tiffany & Co. Robberies The police are trying to identify the man suspected of robbing two Tiffany & Co. locations in the area.
MajorsMay 14, 2025
Jeff Corey Elected Chair of JBT Board The well-known Maine jeweler takes over for Brian Fleming and will serve a one-year term.
Policies & IssuesMay 14, 2025
Foundrae Donates $11K to Ethical MetalsmithsThe donation was the result of the brand’s annual Earth Day Ingot event.
IndependentsMay 13, 2025
Eiseman Jewels’ Renovated Dallas Store Is Bigger and BetterLocated in NorthPark Center, the revamped store is nearly 2,000 square feet larger and includes the first Tudor boutique in Dallas.
MajorsMay 13, 2025
DCA Announces New Learning Platform, Course UpdatesThe nonprofit has made updates to the content in its beginner and advanced jewelry sales courses.
MajorsMay 13, 2025
BIJC Launches New Education FundBIJC President Malyia McNaughton will shift roles to lead the new foundation, and Elyssa Jenkins-Pérez will succeed her as president.
