CollectionsNov 13, 2023
Piece of the Week: Le Vian’s ‘Mare Azzurro’ EarringsCollectionsNov 17, 2023
Piece of the Week: A Verdura for Chanel Cuff From the ‘30s
Up for auction at Bonhams next month, the rare enamel and gem-set cuff is considered the star of the sale.
Next month, Bonhams New York will auction a rare gem-set “Maltese Cross” cuff attributed to Verdura for Chanel and owned by the first woman to achieve EGOT status, Helen Hayes MacArthur.
Next month, Bonhams New York will auction a rare gem-set “Maltese Cross” cuff attributed to Verdura for Chanel and owned by the first woman to achieve EGOT status, Helen Hayes MacArthur.
Fulco di Verdura met Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel in 1925 and came to work for her in 1927, originally as a textile designer.
After artfully redesigning a couple of pieces of jewelry Coco had received from ex-lovers, Verdura had a new job—designing jewelry for Chanel. It was a job he held for eight years before opening his open boutique in New York City in 1939.
His Maltese cross cuff in particular was a hit—Harper’s Bazaar described at the time as the “accessory choice for every outfit”—and became the hallmark of the Verdura brand.
Chanel stores sell costume versions of the Maltese Cross cuff to this day.
Fulco di Verdura met Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel in 1925 and came to work for her in 1927, originally as a textile designer.
After artfully redesigning a couple of pieces of jewelry Coco had received from ex-lovers, Verdura had a new job—designing jewelry for Chanel. It was a job he held for eight years before opening his open boutique in New York City in 1939.
His Maltese cross cuff in particular was a hit—Harper’s Bazaar described at the time as the “accessory choice for every outfit”—and became the hallmark of the Verdura brand.
Chanel stores sell costume versions of the Maltese Cross cuff to this day.
Another view of the gem-set and enamel Verdura for Chanel cuff that was owned by actress Helen Hayes MacArthur
MacArthur (center) is pictured wearing the cuff in this undated photo. (Photo credit: Getty Images)
This particular example is ivory-colored enamel over silver and features a sugarloaf amethyst surrounded by cabochon emeralds, and round- and oval-cut diamonds, rubies, and sapphires.
MacArthur received it as a gift from her husband in the 1930s.
Known as the “First Lady of American Theater,” MacArthur was a star of stage and screen whose career spanned eight decades; she made her theater debut as a young girl in 1905 and was on TV until the mid-1980s.
Her roles garnered her multiple Oscar and Tony awards, as well as a Primetime Emmy and a Grammy award for Best Spoken Word Album in 1977.
She died in 1993 at age 92.
Bonham said her cuff, which has remained in the same family the entire time, is coming to market for the first time. It is in its original box and is in “amazing condition,” the auction house said.
The Maltese Cross cuff is expected to sell for $125,000 to $225,000 when it goes up for auction at Bonhams’ Dec. 4 New York jewelry sale.
Caroline Morrissey, Bonhams director and head of jewelry in New York, called the cuff “the star of the sale.”
“It is an honor to bring such a rare piece with impeccable provenance to auction for the first time,” she said.
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2023
Piece of the Week: A Little Aloha 
TrendsOct 27, 2023
Piece of the Week: Cicada’s Witchy BroochMore on Collections
The Latest
AuctionsJun 18, 2026
Paraíba Tourmalines Sell for $3.4M at Sotheby'sThe recent high jewelry auction, which also featured the sale of a 10-carat blue diamond, was “a celebration of color.”
PodcastsJun 17, 2026
Episode 6: Las Vegas 2026-Trends, Traffic, Broken BathroomsCouture’s Michelle Orman joins Amanda Gizzi and Michelle Graff for this special post-Market Week episode of My Next Question.
GradingJun 17, 2026
SSEF Issues Warning on Refilled EmeraldsThe lab is seeing emeralds with filler added post-testing enter the market, accompanied by reports that indicate little to no treatment.
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center StageColored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.
WatchesJun 17, 2026
Patek Philippe’s ‘Visionary’ Leader Philippe Stern Dies at 88 The third generation of the Stern family to head Patek Philippe, he navigated the “quartz crisis” and preserved the brand’s independence.
Weekly QuizJun 17, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
MajorsJun 17, 2026
James Avery to Revamp In-Store Retail ExperienceThe Texas-based jeweler is gradually rolling out a new experience-forward layout in its stores.
MajorsJun 17, 2026
Seahawks’ Super Bowl Ring Blends Meaningful Design, Technical CraftsmanshipThe Super Bowl LX champions were honored with diamond and blue sapphire rings by Jason of Beverly Hills.
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce SolutionsDCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.
Policies & IssuesJun 17, 2026
Community for Ethical Jewelry Names New Executive DirectorMarianna Smirnova previously spent a decade working with the Responsible Minerals Initiative, in addition to other relevant roles.
MajorsJun 16, 2026
5 Things to Know About the 2026 NBA Championship TrophyThe New York Knicks took home the Larry O'Brien Trophy crafted by Tiffany & Co.
TrendsJun 16, 2026
Post-Vegas Jewelry Trend Report: Big Beads, Western Flair, White MetalsAssociate Editor Natalie Francisco lists the trends she spotted during Jewelry Market Week that will dominate the second half of 2026.
SourcingJun 16, 2026
GemGuide Updates Ruby PricesIts app now reflects increased prices for Mozambique ruby, as well as changes to its Burma ruby charts.
MajorsJun 16, 2026
Sasha Primak Hires New Design DirectorThe manufacturer has tapped Alicia Arnold, the former director of custom design at Tiny Jewel Box.
IndependentsJun 15, 2026
DeBoulle Diamond & Jewelry to Renovate Dallas FlagshipThe revamped, elevated space will feature a two-story Patek Philippe atelier and a rooftop patio for parties.
WatchesJun 15, 2026
G-Shock, Coca-Cola Partner on Bottle-Inspired WatchThe special-edition piece marks the 140th anniversary of the iconic beverage brand.
TrendsJun 15, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Tiny Charms Are TrendingHere are 13 small charms to inspire your layered looks this summer.
AuctionsJun 12, 2026
16th-Century ‘Hogback’ Diamond Ring Going Up for Auction in LondonFound by a metal detectorist, the ring likely belonged to a wealthy, possibly royal, owner, said Noonans.
Events & AwardsJun 12, 2026
CBG Announces Plans for Phoenix ShowThe group has named the keynote speaker and announced a new pavilion for its next event, which is slated for September.
EditorsJun 11, 2026
This Was the Best Animal Jewelry in Las Vegas From lions and hippos to snails and fish, Senior Editor Lenore Fedow wrangles her picks for cutest jewelry critters in Las Vegas.
SourcingJun 11, 2026
Grandview Klein, London Jewelers Partner To Cut 63-Carat RoughThe big stone will be fashioned into a 20.26-carat diamond in celebration of the retailer’s 100th anniversary this year.
MajorsJun 11, 2026
Former Cartier Creative Director To Head Chanel’s Jewelry Creation StudioMarie-Laure Cérède will join Chanel as the new director of its jewelry creation studio, starting in October.
Lab-GrownJun 11, 2026
Smiling Rocks’ ‘Wish Jar’ Generates 100+ Wishes in Las Vegas At the JCK show, the lab-grown diamond brand teamed up with Jewelers for Children to support Make-A-Wish India.
SourcingJun 11, 2026
Signet Jewelers Exec Joins Diamonds Do Good BoardIlana McCabe is Signet’s vice president of public relations and brand communications.
AuctionsJun 10, 2026
31.62-Carat ‘Azure Blue’ Diamond Sells For $8M+ at Christie’sIt was a banner day for blue gemstones, with another blue diamond topping $8 million and a 41-carat sapphire going for $2.3 million.
MajorsJun 10, 2026
Saks Global Receives Bankruptcy Court Approval for ReorganizationThe approval means the retailer is on track to exit bankruptcy proceedings this summer.
CrimeJun 10, 2026
2 Suspects Arrested in Texas Jewelry Store RobberyThe men are believed to be part of the group of several masked suspects that robbed Marc Robinson Jewelers in April.
CollectionsJun 10, 2026
Sylvie Debuts ‘Elevated’ Bridal Collection Inspired By Designer’s RingThe bridal-focused brand is also launching its Custom Atelier this summer, a digital custom design tool for its authorized retailers.
