CollectionsNov 13, 2023
Piece of the Week: Le Vian’s ‘Mare Azzurro’ EarringsCollectionsNov 17, 2023
Piece of the Week: A Verdura for Chanel Cuff From the ‘30s
Up for auction at Bonhams next month, the rare enamel and gem-set cuff is considered the star of the sale.
Next month, Bonhams New York will auction a rare gem-set “Maltese Cross” cuff attributed to Verdura for Chanel and owned by the first woman to achieve EGOT status, Helen Hayes MacArthur.
Next month, Bonhams New York will auction a rare gem-set “Maltese Cross” cuff attributed to Verdura for Chanel and owned by the first woman to achieve EGOT status, Helen Hayes MacArthur.
Fulco di Verdura met Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel in 1925 and came to work for her in 1927, originally as a textile designer.
After artfully redesigning a couple of pieces of jewelry Coco had received from ex-lovers, Verdura had a new job—designing jewelry for Chanel. It was a job he held for eight years before opening his open boutique in New York City in 1939.
His Maltese cross cuff in particular was a hit—Harper’s Bazaar described at the time as the “accessory choice for every outfit”—and became the hallmark of the Verdura brand.
Chanel stores sell costume versions of the Maltese Cross cuff to this day.
Fulco di Verdura met Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel in 1925 and came to work for her in 1927, originally as a textile designer.
After artfully redesigning a couple of pieces of jewelry Coco had received from ex-lovers, Verdura had a new job—designing jewelry for Chanel. It was a job he held for eight years before opening his open boutique in New York City in 1939.
His Maltese cross cuff in particular was a hit—Harper’s Bazaar described at the time as the “accessory choice for every outfit”—and became the hallmark of the Verdura brand.
Chanel stores sell costume versions of the Maltese Cross cuff to this day.
Another view of the gem-set and enamel Verdura for Chanel cuff that was owned by actress Helen Hayes MacArthur
MacArthur (center) is pictured wearing the cuff in this undated photo. (Photo credit: Getty Images)
This particular example is ivory-colored enamel over silver and features a sugarloaf amethyst surrounded by cabochon emeralds, and round- and oval-cut diamonds, rubies, and sapphires.
MacArthur received it as a gift from her husband in the 1930s.
Known as the “First Lady of American Theater,” MacArthur was a star of stage and screen whose career spanned eight decades; she made her theater debut as a young girl in 1905 and was on TV until the mid-1980s.
Her roles garnered her multiple Oscar and Tony awards, as well as a Primetime Emmy and a Grammy award for Best Spoken Word Album in 1977.
She died in 1993 at age 92.
Bonham said her cuff, which has remained in the same family the entire time, is coming to market for the first time. It is in its original box and is in “amazing condition,” the auction house said.
The Maltese Cross cuff is expected to sell for $125,000 to $225,000 when it goes up for auction at Bonhams’ Dec. 4 New York jewelry sale.
Caroline Morrissey, Bonhams director and head of jewelry in New York, called the cuff “the star of the sale.”
“It is an honor to bring such a rare piece with impeccable provenance to auction for the first time,” she said.
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2023
Piece of the Week: A Little Aloha 
TrendsOct 27, 2023
Piece of the Week: Cicada’s Witchy BroochMore on Collections
The Latest
FinancialsApr 25, 2025
Kering’s Jewelry Brands Persevere as Q1 Sales Sink 14%Boucheron and Pomellato performed well in an otherwise bleak quarter for Kering amid struggles at Gucci.
EditorsApr 25, 2025
Piece of the Week: Deborah Meyers Experience’s ‘The Birds’ EarringsDesigner Deborah Meyers created her birds from oxidized sterling silver, rose-cut diamond eyes, and Akoya Keshi pearl feathers.
SourcingApr 25, 2025
De Beers Sales, Production Fall in Q1 Amid UncertaintyThe company said it expects sightholders to remain “cautious” with their purchasing due to all the unknowns around the U.S. tariffs.
Brought to you by
Emerging Jewelers Accelerator Program Announces Second Cohort of Aspiring Jewelry Entrepreneurs Six new retail businesses were selected for the 2025 program, which began in January.
Supplier BulletinApr 24, 2025
Protect Your Customers and Your BusinessSponsored by the Gemological Institute of America
Weekly QuizApr 24, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
EditorsApr 24, 2025
Q&A: Wolf’s CEO Talks U.S. ExpansionSimon Wolf shares why the time was right to open a new office here, what he looks for in a retail partner, and why he loves U.S. consumers.
IndependentsApr 24, 2025
Longtime Iowa Jeweler Herman Ginsberg Dies at 99 A third-generation jeweler, Ginsberg worked at his family’s store, Ginsberg Jewelers, from 1948 until his retirement in 2019.
Brought to you by
Protect Your Customers and Your BusinessThe risk of laboratory-grown diamonds being falsely presented as natural diamonds presents a very significant danger to consumer trust.
FinancialsApr 24, 2025
Charles & Colvard Delisted From Nasdaq Due to NoncomplianceThe company failed to file its quarterly reports in a timely manner.
SourcingApr 24, 2025
Young Diamantaires Transition to NonprofitThe organization also announced its board of directors.
TrendsApr 24, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: So CharmingCharms may be tiny but with their small size comes endless layering possibilities, from bracelets to necklaces and earrings.
MajorsApr 23, 2025
Bulgari Doubles Size of Jewelry Factory in ItalyLocated in Valenza, the now 355,000-square-foot facility includes a new jewelry school that’s open to the public, Scuola Bulgari.
Events & AwardsApr 23, 2025
PDPaola Creative Director Wins FGI’s ‘Rising Star’ AwardPaola Sasplugas, co-founder of the Barcelona-based jewelry brand, received the Fine Jewelry Award.
AuctionsApr 23, 2025
Rare Custom Rolex Daytona Heads to AuctionA platinum Zenith-powered Daytona commissioned in the late ‘90s will headline Sotheby’s Important Watches sale in Geneva next month.
MajorsApr 23, 2025
David Yurman’s New Campaign Stars Carmelo Anthony, Jaylen BrownThe basketball stars wear men’s jewelry from the “Curb Chain” collection.
MajorsApr 22, 2025
Zales’ Rebrand Takes Playful Approach to Fine JewelryThe Signet Jewelers-owned retailer wants to encourage younger shoppers to wear fine jewelry every day, not just on special occasions.
AuctionsApr 22, 2025
Christie’s to Auction JAR Jewelry CollectionThe 21 pieces, all from a private collector, will be offered at its Magnificent Jewels auction next month.
ColumnistsApr 22, 2025
The PR Adviser: Building Buzz Through Word of MouthLilian Raji answers a question from a reader who is looking to grow her jewelry business but has a limited marketing budget.
GradingApr 22, 2025
Avi Levy Is GCAL By Sarine’s New Chief Growth OfficerGCAL by Sarine created the new role to sharpen the company’s focus on strategic partnerships and scalable expansion.
IndependentsApr 22, 2025
Brinker’s Jewelers Acquires Fellow IndependentThe Indiana jeweler has acquired Scottsdale Fine Jewelers in Scottsdale, Arizona.
Events & AwardsApr 21, 2025
An Exhibition Exploring the History of Cartier Is Now on Display“Cartier: Design, Craft, and Legacy” opened earlier this month at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.
IndependentsApr 21, 2025
New York Jeweler to Close After 111 YearsVan Cott Jewelers in Vestal, New York, is hosting a going-out-of-business sale.
IndependentsApr 21, 2025
IJO Names New Director of Vendor Relations, Merchandise StrategyIndustry veteran Samantha Larson has held leadership roles at Borsheims, McTeigue & McClelland, Stuller, and Long’s Jewelers.
Events & AwardsApr 21, 2025
Jewelers of Louisiana, Mississippi Jewelers Association to Co-Host ConventionThe two organizations will hold the educational event together this fall in Mississippi.
Events & AwardsApr 18, 2025
Daymond John to Give Keynote at JCK Las VegasThe entrepreneur and “Shark Tank” star will share his top tips for success.
IndependentsApr 18, 2025
Bremer Jewelry to Reveal Renovated StoreThe jeweler has announced a grand reopening for its recently remodeled location in Peoria, Illinois.
MajorsApr 18, 2025
Tiffany & Co. Employees Star in Mother’s Day CampaignThe “Strong Like Mom” campaign features moms who work at Tiffany & Co. and their children.
