Trends

At Vicenzaoro, Paola De Luca Gazes Into Jewelry’s Future

TrendsJan 26, 2023

At Vicenzaoro, Paola De Luca Gazes Into Jewelry’s Future

The trend forecaster and her guests explored unconventional jewelry designs, NFTs, AI art, and more during her Trendvision presentation.

20230126_Trendvision header.jpg
Trend forecaster Paola De Luca presented “Dreamscapes,” a discussion about the latest in jewelry technology and creative innovation, in her presentation at the January Vicenzaoro show.
Vicenza, Italy—At Vicenzaoro, Italian trend forecaster Paola De Luca delved into how new technologies coupled with artistic creativity are blurring the line between reality and fiction in jewelry.

On Saturday at the show, De Luca moderated the “Dreamscapes” presentation, welcoming several industry experts to the stage to discuss the latest in jewelry technology and innovation.

“Dreamscapes is about escaping reality through the digital era but also getting inspired,” she said. “We are at the cusp. We have entered a new era of imagination.”

The session began with a look back at her own career and her path to trend forecasting.

De Luca recalled living in New York in the 1990s and how the subcultures of the time would influence the fashion world, but on a delay.

“The subcultures I would see in my nightlife would show up in Vogue or the big magazines a year later. And I was like, ‘how can I connect that?’” she said. “Everything is synergic. There is no line between us and the street.”

This is what her guests had to say about the current state of jewelry and how technology will shape the industry’s future.

One hundred years later, Surrealism makes a comeback.

First to the stage were Bella Neyman and JB Jones, co-founders of New York City Jewelry Week.

To better understand the innovation of the present day and the future, Neyman and Jones walked the audience through jewelry history.

20230126_1-Trendvision.jpg
Paola De Luca introduced New York City Jewelry Week co-founders Bella Neyman and JB Jones as her first guests.

The pair’s segment focused on Surrealist artists, like Salvador Dalí and Man Ray, and the wearable art of the early 20th century.

The Surrealist movement emphasized the power of imagination and the unconscious, and its artists reimagined everyday objects in interesting ways, a theme that can be seen mirrored in the present state of jewelry, said Neyman.

She highlighted Man Ray’s lampshade earrings and Dalí’s ruby lips brooch, which turned the everyday into elevated jewelry.

The Surrealist movement was born around 1920 in the aftermath of World War I.

This period in jewelry history, said De Luca, mirrors the present day, noting the similar social and political shifts, like the war in Ukraine and an economic crisis, as well as industrial changes and emerging technologies.

Just about 100 years later, Jones gave insight into how history is repeating itself in the current crop of jewelry designers.

“Today, we see what’s happening as a result of the work-from-home shift and a growing interest in virtual and digital design. The growth of Web3, the metaverse, NFTs, and all of that is combining to create a new reality in the jewelry world. And we see that playing out in design, materials, and marketing,” she said.

Jones said this emerging technology, like the Surrealist movement, begs the question, what is real?

She noted the rise in the use of unconventional materials, like plastic rings by London-based designer Milli Welch or Boucheron’s “Holographique” high jewelry collection, which gave rock crystal a holographic effect by spraying the stone with precious metal microparticles at a high temperature.

On the NFT front, she highlighted the “Cosmic Craving” NFT by diamond artist Reena Ahluwalia and Simone Faurschou’s “Blockchain” collection, which pairs its 18-karat gold necklaces with an NFT.

“It really is the combination of these worlds that is making the dreamscape now a reality,” said Jones.

 Related stories will be right here … 

Jewelry renderings, a powerful storytelling tool, have gone high tech.

Graphic designer Barbara Brocchi took the stage next, sharing her experience as an illustrator working with brands like Bulgari and using both traditional and digital design.

Brocchi spoke about the importance of storytelling and how she helps brands do just that via illustration, sharing the process of how a piece of jewelry comes to be, sketching it each step of the way.

20230126_2-Trendvision.jpg
Graphic designer and illustrator Barbara Brocchi shared her experience working with Bulgari.

While a photograph can only show the finished product, a jewelry rendering gives a better understanding of a jewel’s creation.

It shows the full magic, said Brocchi, and brings customers along on the journey.

That process of turning a dream into a physical piece, that is what the customer wants, said De Luca.

“You’re not only sketching. You’re using digital effects to present and communicate what the piece is about,” she added.

Gen Z jewelers are flipping the script.

Jewelry designer Wallis Hong was the next presenter, praised by De Luca as the “emerging talent” of the moment.

Gen Z, of which Hong is a member, is bringing new values to the table, she said, like gender fluidity, cultural osmosis, and “phygital” reality.

20230126_3-Trendvision.jpg
Jewelry designer Wallis Hong is elevating traditional subjects in his jewelry creations.

Hong uses unconventional materials like titanium, a callback to a point Jones made during her segment.

Born in China, Hong now lives in Spain, and takes inspiration from famed French jeweler René Lalique (1860-1945), a prime example of the mixing of cultures noted by De Luca.

Inspired by nature and the Art Nouveau moment, he creates big and bold jewels, bringing a new twist to common art subjects, like butterflies and marine life. 

“I want to make the type of jewelry that people have different connections to, that you may see as a coral and other people may see it as a water butterfly,” explained Hong.

“We’re changing archetypes,” said De Luca. “It’s a point in history where we’re changing the models, the shapes, the silhouettes. Whatever was traditional is taken to the next level.”

AI art could revolutionize the luxury industry.

The last guest to the stage was Ferdi Alici, founder of OUCHHH Studio, a media company that combines art and science by creating data paintings and sculptures.

20230126_4-Trendvision.jpg
Ferdi Alici, founder of OUCHHH Studio, Ferdi Alici, founder of OUCHHH Studio, explained how his company turns data into AI art.


The company partnered with Bulgari to celebrate the 10th anniversary of its “Octo” watch, projecting a digital art display on the front of the Pantheon in Rome. The orchestra of the Santa Cecilia Academy accompanied the show. 

The studio collected data related to the history of Italian architecture and combined that with the conductor’s brainwaves, monitored via a NeuroSky MindWave EEG headset capable of tracking his alpha and gamma waves and other aspects of his mental state, like attention and stress levels.

That info was sent through a data visualization system and the resulting images were shown in real time through the digital display.

The company, Alici explained, uses “data as a paint, algorithm as a brush, and AI as an artist.”

While the emergence of AI art is a point of contention for some—namely human artists who depend upon their skill and craft to make a living—the studio said it has found success in the luxury space, working with brands Girard-Perregaux, Mercedes, Ferrari, and Audi on AI art projects.

“Luxury brands’ communication is changing,” said Alici. “They are thinking about how to integrate art into the communication messages for the brands. There are infinite possibilities.”

“I get so excited when I see these things,” said De Luca. “This is what I think our industry should start embracing.”

Trendvision is an independent observatory co-founded by De Luca and the Italian Exhibition Group, the organizers of Vicenzaoro.

De Luca’s “Trendbook 2024+,” her guide to jewelry trends, is available for purchase online.

The Latest

Sylvie Jewelry Auranova Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsApr 25, 2025
Sylvie Looks to Water in New Sculptural Bridal Collection

“Shell Auranova” is the next generation of the brand’s bridal line, featuring half-bezel engagement rings with bold and fluid designs.

Pomellato Nudo toi et moi ring
FinancialsApr 25, 2025
Kering’s Jewelry Brands Persevere as Q1 Sales Sink 14%

Boucheron and Pomellato performed well in an otherwise bleak quarter for Kering amid struggles at Gucci.

Deborah Meyers Experience The Birds Earrings
EditorsApr 25, 2025
Piece of the Week: Deborah Meyers Experience’s ‘The Birds’ Earrings

Designer Deborah Meyers created her birds from oxidized sterling silver, rose-cut diamond eyes, and Akoya Keshi pearl feathers.

ejap cohort 1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
Emerging Jewelers Accelerator Program Announces Second Cohort of Aspiring Jewelry Entrepreneurs

Six new retail businesses were selected for the 2025 program, which began in January.

Melee diamonds from De Beers
SourcingApr 25, 2025
De Beers Sales, Production Fall in Q1 Amid Uncertainty

The company said it expects sightholders to remain “cautious” with their purchasing due to all the unknowns around the U.S. tariffs.

Weekly QuizApr 24, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
LIM-401 2024 National Jeweler Supplier Bulletin- iD100 Web and Eblast FINAL (1).jpg
Supplier BulletinApr 24, 2025
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

Sponsored by the Gemological Institute of America

Wolf CEO Simon Wolf
EditorsApr 24, 2025
Q&A: Wolf’s CEO Talks U.S. Expansion

Simon Wolf shares why the time was right to open a new office here, what he looks for in a retail partner, and why he loves U.S. consumers.

gia1d100 btyb.jpg
Brought to you by
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

The risk of laboratory-grown diamonds being falsely presented as natural diamonds presents a very significant danger to consumer trust.

Iowa jeweler Herman Ginsberg
IndependentsApr 24, 2025
Longtime Iowa Jeweler Herman Ginsberg Dies at 99

A third-generation jeweler, Ginsberg worked at his family’s store, Ginsberg Jewelers, from 1948 until his retirement in 2019.

Charles & Colvard moissanite ring
FinancialsApr 24, 2025
Charles & Colvard Delisted From Nasdaq Due to Noncompliance

The company failed to file its quarterly reports in a timely manner.

Young Diamantaires
SourcingApr 24, 2025
Young Diamantaires Transition to Nonprofit

The organization also announced its board of directors.

Bulgari’s expanded factory in Valenza, Italy
MajorsApr 23, 2025
Bulgari Doubles Size of Jewelry Factory in Italy

Located in Valenza, the now 355,000-square-foot facility includes a new jewelry school that’s open to the public, Scuola Bulgari.

Jason McNary accepting FGI Fine Jewelry Rising Star award for Paola Sasplugas
Events & AwardsApr 23, 2025
PDPaola Creative Director Wins FGI’s ‘Rising Star’ Award

Paola Sasplugas, co-founder of the Barcelona-based jewelry brand, received the Fine Jewelry Award.

1999 Cosmograph Daytona, Ref.16516
AuctionsApr 23, 2025
Rare Custom Rolex Daytona Heads to Auction

A platinum Zenith-powered Daytona commissioned in the late ‘90s will headline Sotheby’s Important Watches sale in Geneva next month.

Carmelo Anthony and Jaylen Brown David Yurman campaign
MajorsApr 23, 2025
David Yurman’s New Campaign Stars Carmelo Anthony, Jaylen Brown

The basketball stars wear men’s jewelry from the “Curb Chain” collection.

Woman wearing Zales jewelry
MajorsApr 22, 2025
Zales’ Rebrand Takes Playful Approach to Fine Jewelry

The Signet Jewelers-owned retailer wants to encourage younger shoppers to wear fine jewelry every day, not just on special occasions.

JAR Apricot Blossom bracelet
AuctionsApr 22, 2025
Christie’s to Auction JAR Jewelry Collection

The 21 pieces, all from a private collector, will be offered at its Magnificent Jewels auction next month.

National Jeweler columnist Lilian Raji
ColumnistsApr 22, 2025
The PR Adviser: Building Buzz Through Word of Mouth

Lilian Raji answers a question from a reader who is looking to grow her jewelry business but has a limited marketing budget.

Avi Levy
GradingApr 22, 2025
Avi Levy Is GCAL By Sarine’s New Chief Growth Officer

GCAL by Sarine created the new role to sharpen the company’s focus on strategic partnerships and scalable expansion.

Scottsdale Fine Jewelers store exterior
IndependentsApr 22, 2025
Brinker’s Jewelers Acquires Fellow Independent

The Indiana jeweler has acquired Scottsdale Fine Jewelers in Scottsdale, Arizona.

Cartier Exhibition Installation at Victoria & Albert Museum
Events & AwardsApr 21, 2025
An Exhibition Exploring the History of Cartier Is Now on Display

“Cartier: Design, Craft, and Legacy” opened earlier this month at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

Bill and Birdie Levine of Van Cott Jewelers
IndependentsApr 21, 2025
New York Jeweler to Close After 111 Years

Van Cott Jewelers in Vestal, New York, is hosting a going-out-of-business sale.

IJO Director Samantha Larson
IndependentsApr 21, 2025
IJO Names New Director of Vendor Relations, Merchandise Strategy

Industry veteran Samantha Larson has held leadership roles at Borsheims, McTeigue & McClelland, Stuller, and Long’s Jewelers.

Events & AwardsApr 21, 2025
Jewelers of Louisiana, Mississippi Jewelers Association to Co-Host Convention

The two organizations will hold the educational event together this fall in Mississippi.

Daymond John
Events & AwardsApr 18, 2025
Daymond John to Give Keynote at JCK Las Vegas

The entrepreneur and “Shark Tank” star will share his top tips for success.

Dukachi Easter Bread Pendant
CollectionsApr 18, 2025
Piece of the Week: Dukachi’s ‘Easter Bread’ Pendant

The Ukrainian brand’s new pendant is modeled after a traditional paska, a pastry often baked for Easter in Eastern European cultures.

Bremer Jewelry
IndependentsApr 18, 2025
Bremer Jewelry to Reveal Renovated Store

The jeweler has announced a grand reopening for its recently remodeled location in Peoria, Illinois.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy