Two Jewelry Trade Shows in Two Days
Associate Editor Lenore Fedow shares her experiences at JA New York and Melee the Show alongside her favorite jewels.
![Associate Editor Lenore Fedow recounts her experiences at JA New York and Melee the Show. 20220830_JA NY Melee header.jpg](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/fa0efed661b85b175a2fc083661e611b.jpg)
We repeat this phrase to one another every time a calm day turns into a news-filled frenzy.
I recently had a week that really drove that phrase home, packed with two trade shows, two earnings reports, putting the finishing touches on my story for our next print issue, and moderating a panel, on top of all the other day-to-day work that has to be done.
“You write exclusively about jewelry five days a week?,” non-industry people ask me.
We have a full-time four-person team and there still isn’t enough bandwidth to share all the news, I tell them.
But it’s a fun job, and some days you just have to roll with the punches.
So, earlier this month, I put on a brave face and traversed my way through two trade shows, JA New York and Melee the Show, in a mere 48 hours.
I suffered through meeting incredibly talented designers and trying on some of the most beautiful, finely crafted jewels I’ve ever seen.
It’s a grueling life, but somebody has to do it.
First stop: JA New York
JA New York was the first jewelry trade show I ever attended, so I have a soft spot for the show.
The JA New York Summer Show was held Aug. 14-16 at New York City’s Javits Center.
The show reminds me of when I was a fresh-faced newbie and the whole show floor was a playground, before terms like “sustainability” and “ethical sourcing” were in my vocabulary.
Now, I look at jewelry with a better-informed eye, but the thrill is still there. Just when I think I’ve seen the most beautiful piece of jewelry there is, something else surprises me.
This year, in addition to playing jewelry dress-up, I was moderating an afternoon panel on retail technology trends as part of the show’s education initiative, sponsored by National Jeweler’s parent company Jewelers of America.
I’d never moderated a live panel before, but I had two fantastic guests, Jennifer Shaheen of Technology Therapy Group and Alexandra Hevia Schlindwein of Kiefer Jewelers, and that makes all the difference.
It was one of two all-female panels that day, and the only all-female technology panel Shaheen said she’d ever been on, so that was a nice feeling.
We spoke to a small but interested audience about the latest retail technology trends, like QR codes and NFTs, and how jewelers could incorporate them into their businesses.
Before and after the panel, I spent my time in the New Designer Gallery, a section that has showcased up-and-coming jewelry brands since its founding 45 years ago, helping brands like David Yurman and Alex Sepkus get their start.
This show marked the gallery’s return for the first time since the COVID-19 pandemic.
It showcased six brands: JV Insardi, Kiersten Elizabeth, Nvr Nude, Isabel Alexander, Helannona, and Pracyious Jewels.
The gallery was busy when I attended the show that Monday, but I managed to snag some one-on-one time at a few of the booths.
My first stop was JV Insardi to visit with designer Jen Insardi. A former student of The New School’s Parsons School of Design and the Fashion Institute of Technology, Insardi has a background in interior design, and her pieces definitely have a sculptural feel.
The brand resonated with attendees and was named the 2022 New Designer Gallery winner.
Next, I visited the Isabel Alexander booth. The Moldova-born designer derives her inspiration from architecture, nature, embroidery, and folklore.
Her pieces feature geometric patterns and bright colored gemstones set in classic styles.
My final stop was the Kiersten Elizabeth booth, and the visit reminded me how much a jeweler’s personality plays into how much I like their jewelry.
The designer Kiersten Elizabeth, and her assistant, were incredibly kind and gracious with their time, and the love and excitement they both had for the pieces was palpable.
I’m a huge fan of vintage and antique jewelry and I was immediately drawn to how Elizabeth incorporated influences from different eras, like Edwardian and Art Deco, into her jewels.
The pieces were so clearly a labor of love, down to every last intricate detail.
The JA New York show will return to the Javits Center this fall from Oct. 23-25.
Stop Two: Melee the Show
The following day, I headed over to Melee the Show at Chelsea Piers.
It’s a boutique trade show that bills itself as an alternative to the traditional show format, trading a large convention hall for a smaller, more intimate setting.
This was my first time attending this show, so I wasn’t sure what to expect, but I had heard good things.
The show setting was perfect. The Lighthouse at Chelsea Piers is surrounded by walls of windows looking out onto the Hudson River, which gives the space a lot of natural light.
I decided to attend Melee after being invited to a press round table.
David Rees of TenThousandThings led a conversation with Purvi Shah, the new head of ethical and sustainable value chains at the De Beers Group, about the diamond supply chain.
Shah touched on a wide range of topics from De Beers’ sustainability efforts and its new Code of Origin program.
In addition to press, there were designers in the audience and they came ready with tough questions, like how to track what’s in packets of melee diamonds.
Shah deftly answered each question, and I got the sense the designers could’ve sat there asking questions for hours.
After the round table, I took some time to walk around and talk with a handful of designers I hadn’t met before.
It was a quieter crowd than the JA show, but it was still busy and there were very few booths that didn’t have someone visiting.
My first stop was Susan Highsmith’s booth. We’ve followed each other on Instagram for a while now, but I’d never gotten to see her jewels in person, and, wow, I was missing out.
She recognized me right away, and we quickly got to talking about her jewelry, trying on ring after ring as I remarked how gorgeous everything was, and I meant it.
My favorite was the below Scorpio signet ring, which is a part of her “Zodiac” collection. I happen to be a Scorpio, but Highsmith said it’s a popular style for the other star signs as well based on the look alone.
The London-born, Barbados-raised designer brings the warmth of her home island in the Caribbean to her jewelry, hand-picking bright and beautiful gemstones.
I was a total newcomer to her brand, but she had a citrine ring that called to me.
Citrine is my birthstone and a personal favorite, but I’m also just drawn to its warm colors.
The warmth of the stone paired with the rough texture of the band was bold and fun, and it pained me to hand this ring back.
After visiting with Allsopp, I took a walk over to the TenThousandThings booth. I’d heard a lot about this brand and I was excited to see their jewels.
It was worth the wait, because that booth was jam-packed with colorful, bold jewels.
One of my favorite pieces was the below cuff that had the look of molten metal onto your wrist.
![This melted metal cuff by TenThousandThings revived my love of silver jewelry. 20220830_11-JA Melee.jpg](https://nationaljeweler.com/rails/active_storage/representations/redirect/eyJfcmFpbHMiOnsibWVzc2FnZSI6IkJBaHBBbmhLIiwiZXhwIjpudWxsLCJwdXIiOiJibG9iX2lkIn19--87c1f635a73aa98adfb3cdacbf78b2ef3dc274ce/eyJfcmFpbHMiOnsibWVzc2FnZSI6IkJBaDdERG9MWm05eWJXRjBTU0lJYW5CbkJqb0dSVlE2RkhKbGMybDZaVjkwYjE5c2FXMXBkRnNIYVFJQUJHa0NBQU02RkhOaGJYQnNhVzVuWDJaaFkzUnZja2tpQ2pRNk1qb3dCanNHVkRvS2MzUnlhWEJVT2c1cGJuUmxjbXhoWTJWSklnbEtVRVZIQmpzR1ZEb1BZMjlzYjNKemNHRmpaVWtpQ1hOU1IwSUdPd1pVT2d4eGRXRnNhWFI1YVZBPSIsImV4cCI6bnVsbCwicHVyIjoidmFyaWF0aW9uIn19--ea15daad36a7f7266e7d591867d534d851352260/20220830_11-JA%20Melee.jpg)
I love silver jewelry, which I’ve come to learn is a polarizing opinion in this industry, but I’m sticking with it.
Another must-see was a one-of-a-kind, hand-cut lapis pyramid ring, seen below.
![A lapis pyramid ring by TenThousandThings 20220830_12-JA Melee.jpg](https://nationaljeweler.com/rails/active_storage/representations/redirect/eyJfcmFpbHMiOnsibWVzc2FnZSI6IkJBaHBBbmxLIiwiZXhwIjpudWxsLCJwdXIiOiJibG9iX2lkIn19--5b16fd038066caab43d5d1d8a43f2ace09bb5bc3/eyJfcmFpbHMiOnsibWVzc2FnZSI6IkJBaDdERG9MWm05eWJXRjBTU0lJYW5CbkJqb0dSVlE2RkhKbGMybDZaVjkwYjE5c2FXMXBkRnNIYVFJQUJHa0NBQU02RkhOaGJYQnNhVzVuWDJaaFkzUnZja2tpQ2pRNk1qb3dCanNHVkRvS2MzUnlhWEJVT2c1cGJuUmxjbXhoWTJWSklnbEtVRVZIQmpzR1ZEb1BZMjlzYjNKemNHRmpaVWtpQ1hOU1IwSUdPd1pVT2d4eGRXRnNhWFI1YVZBPSIsImV4cCI6bnVsbCwicHVyIjoidmFyaWF0aW9uIn19--ea15daad36a7f7266e7d591867d534d851352260/20220830_12-JA%20Melee.jpg)
The wonderfully exciting thing about jewelry is you think you’ve seen every design there is to see and then, behold, you’re surprised once more.
At this point in the day, I was running on empty, but there was one more booth that caught my eye.
Januka is a Tokyo-based brand founded in 2012 by Jo Nakamura. The brand takes what you know about basic jewelry concepts and flips it on its head.
Several of its pieces have settings that cross over the face of the gemstone or just encase the stone in a perfectly square box rather than in a traditional setting, two techniques I’ve not seen before.
A favorite piece of mine was a slice of lapis ring, that was, at the risk of overusing this word, fun.
The next Melee show will be held Jan. 30 to Feb. 1 in Tucson, just ahead of the gem shows.
Adding two trade shows to my work line-up made for a whirlwind of a week, but one of the best things about my job is getting to meet with designers, to hear their stories, and to see their art in person.
I look forward to seeing what the next round of trade shows has to offer.
The Latest
![Direct-to-consumer retail brand Diamonds Direct has opened a store in the Atlanta neighborhood of Buckhead, an area known for its upscale malls. Diamonds Direct Atlanta store](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/2e6577afc9470ba1c1de327fad397366.jpg)
It’s the Signet-owned banner’s first location in Georgia.
![These “Double Loop” earrings feature a drop-cut amethyst sitting atop the lower hoop, totaling 1.60 carats between both earrings. The hoops are made of silver covered in “pistacchio” colored enamel, while 9-karat yellow gold holds the stones in place and connect the two hoops behind the earlobe ($1,770). Bea Bongiasca’s Double Loop Earrings](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/f338ef6b4603be3c97765f833b831ca0.jpg)
Commemorate “brat summer” with these green hoops.
Sponsored by Gemological Institute of America
![Untitled design.jpg](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/583fbcb2bb839782810080debef35d3c.jpg)
As the demand for lab-grown diamond jewelry may still be increasing, the most notable change we are likely to see is price stabilization.
![Earlier this month, online giant Amazon and the Better Business Bureau filed a joint federal lawsuit against ReviewServiceUSA.com for allegedly selling fake reviews, both positive and negative. Amazon package outside door](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/27fce4225a38900d54a5536ce523a22d.jpg)
They claim ReviewServiceUSA.com was selling both positive and negative reviews of products and businesses.
![](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/99a46b30cc354962ac2e29ecd113587a.jpg)
![A shot of the Venetia diamond mine in South Africa, owned by De Beers Group. The diamond miner and marketer saw revenue drop 21 percent and rough diamond sales decline 20 percent in a “weak” market for diamonds. De Beers’ Venetia diamond mine](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/a1f16ceaaba662e80385166060d192a7.jpg)
Lab-grown diamond sales in the United States and ongoing economic challenges in China are impacting natural diamond demand.
A longtime member of IJO, she’s remembered for her passion for design, learning, and environmentalism.
![1872 x 1052 Gemolite.jpg](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/9d60901b44425a53b9010301897a3bbc.jpg)
GIA®’s most advanced microscope has new features to optimize greater precision and comfort.
![A malachite and diamond bracelet from Pomellato’s “Pom Pom Dot” collection, launched earlier this year. Pomellato and Boucheron were bright spots for Kering in an otherwise underwhelming first half of the year. Pomellato Malachite Pom Pom Dot bracelet](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/3c237b62e009742fc52487097daf3c5a.jpg)
The gains come amid a tough time for parent company Kering, which saw sales slide 11 percent in the first half of the year.
![Volunteers and Shane Co.’s corporate team from all 22 locations of the family-owned jewelry chain have begun packing backpacks with school supplies for teachers to distribute to their students this school year. Shane Co. and the Kids in Need foundation logo](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/1c5abfb36ec775724f014f47bfbb47fc.jpg)
The fine jewelry retailer filled backpacks with back-to-school essentials for students in 13 states.
![A shot from the advertising campaign for LVMH-owned Bulgari’s “Eden the Garden of Wonders” high jewelry collection. LVMH’s jewelry and watch sales slipped in the first half of the fiscal year. Bulgari high jewelry campaign](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/c24eb75ca8cea44d2e9859648f4a98ee.jpg)
Tiffany & Co. is focusing on its “iconic” collections while the company has made changes at the top at TAG Heuer and Hublot.
![Chaumet, a Parisian jeweler owned by LVMH, has designed the Olympic and Paralympic Games medals. Chaumet Paris 2024 Olympics medals](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/7831b3a738baddfc7d783e6df0fbf796.jpg)
The Parisian brand is the first jewelry company in the history of the Olympic and Paralympic Games to design the medals.
![The acquisition of Union Life & Casualty by Jewelers Mutual will help strengthen both the pawn market and the insurance industry, said JM. Jewelers Mutual and Union Life and Casualty logos](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/195925667226ecfc51b4e1bb09607143.jpg)
Union Life & Casualty will join JM Insurance Agency Partners, expanding the provider’s pawnbroker coverage.
![The winner of this year’s Lonia Tate scholarship, Bradlei Smith will receive the opportunity to earn her Graduate Gemologist diploma from GIA and, following graduation, an internship at Ben Bridge Jeweler in Seattle. Bradlei Smith](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/996834935ae30a7a1195db8b9db6cb7d.jpg)
Los Angeles-based Bradlei Smith was selected for this year’s award.
![Peter Smith is an industry consultant, speaker, sales trainer, and author. He can be reached via email at TheRetailSmiths@gmail.com. National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/bec7295a7f478778b1c196e6d81e7cd9.jpg)
In his latest column, Smith shares multiple reasons why people who look at the glass as being hall full often make better salespeople.
![De Beers Group mined 6.4 million carats of diamonds in the second quarter of 2024, down from 7.6 million in the same period last year. (©De Beers Group/Photo credit: Ben Perry @ Armoury Films) De Beers rough diamond display](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/80cd02b1c8384f4b2efda0bcdf6a75e1.jpg)
The company also reported the $150 million sale of an iron ore royalty right, part of its ongoing effort to divest “non-core” assets.
![In honor of its summer bridal event, Long’s Jewelers is partnering with Wequassett Resort and Golf Club on Cape Cod in Massachusetts, and jewelry brand JB Star on a vacation giveaway. Long’s Jewelers giveaway promo](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/4e7a90944c4e8875a4f3818dbe26b28b.jpg)
The giveaway is part of the New England jeweler’s summer bridal event.
![L.A.-based flower designer, Sophia Moreno-Bunge models Guzema’s “Hidden Beauty” collection in front of a garden in Rustic Canyon in Santa Monica, California. Sophia Moreno-Bunge of Isa Isa modeling Guzema’s Hidden Beauty collection](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/6f3822623eb7fd2f6468f82825194cb1.jpg)
The ad features three celebrity florists creating floral sculptures while wearing jewelry by Guzema.
![The Entrepreneurship Grants program supports winners with financial aid to scale their businesses and increase their societal impact, said Diamonds Do Good. Pictured here are three of the 13 winners, top right is Tresia Shituula, and bottom row left to right, are Monkgogi Moshaga and Mohamed Samu. Tresia Shituula, Monkgogi Moshaga, Mohamed Samu](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/a7c9b87301b76a9446f6522747ce5b95.jpg)
The grant provided a total of $100,000 to support 13 entrepreneurs from diamond communities in Africa and India.
![Ghazi Osta, better known as Gus, was the owner and president of Volusia Gold & Diamond, a store he and his wife, Leigh Osta, opened in 1986. He was shot and killed inside the store Friday afternoon after a brief argument with a regular customer. (Photo courtesy of Volusia Gold & Diamond Facebook page) Ghazi “Gus” Michel Osta](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/c8c1fa3df746cbd364915a98dcac9d21.jpg)
Ghazi Michel Osta, or “Gus,” was killed Friday by an 83-year-old man said to be a frequent customer at his store, Volusia Gold & Diamond.
![Elyssa Jenkins-Pérez (left) is the Responsible Jewellery Council’s new head of North American development, and Effie Marinos is its new specialist advisor for technical standards. Elyssa Jenkins-Perez and Effie Marinos](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/94332af0c7a776e7a8c36fabf76baa5f.jpg)
The organization also announced Effie Marinos as its new specialist advisor for technical standards, as well as four other appointments.
![Karen Rentmeesters, who joined the Antwerp World Diamond Centre in 2010, will take on the role of CEO. Karen Rentmeesters](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/3256fcc71cd43a399055c61f68486269.jpg)
Rentmeesters has served as interim CEO since April following former CEO Ari Epstein’s resignation.
![Longtime Washington, D.C., jeweler Brian Mann (right) with his wife Jessie Mann, an artist who custom-paints porcelain Limoges Boxes, at a 2016 Jewelers of America member event. Mann, the longtime co-owner of David Mann Jewelers, died June 21 at age 70. Brian and Jessie Mann](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/be4debc6e0b3198943a66ef0e2197c2c.jpg)
Mann, whose family’s jewelry store was located inside the Pentagon, is remembered for being a thoughtful champion of the industry.
![The 1916 Company recently opened a new Tudor boutique in Denver’s Cherry Creek Shopping Center. Tudor store in Denver](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/9f8600ea53ed731963331ebd28a10d16.jpg)
The 500-square-foot boutique is located in Denver’s Cherry Creek Shopping Center.
![This necklace from Messika’s “So Move Max” set is made of yellow gold with 19.18-carats of brilliant-cut diamonds and designed with circle motifs that move within the links (price upon request). Messika’s So Move Max Necklace](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/14c78af4a4e8c6b996a81bbb5a5bc69f.jpg)
Dance all night long with the “So Move Max” set’s necklace.
![On Sept. 1, Julien Tornare (left), current CEO of TAG Heuer, will become CEO of Hublot. Antoine Pin, now the general manager of Bulgari’s watch business, will take over Tornare’s role as CEO of TAG Heuer. (Images courtesy of LinkedIn) Julien Tornare and Antoine Pin](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/b24627b34ece895ddd254bae22751fb8.jpg)
Luxury giant LVMH is reshuffling the leadership in its watches division.
![A rendering of a billboard from Etsy’s new campaign. The campaign is designed to highlight the platform’s creators and how their products are made. Etsy billboard rendering in NYC](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/9a94f394f326b90dc1c9da6a711c5e09.jpg)
Sellers and shoppers have spoken out against a rise in mass-produced merchandise on the platform meant to highlight handmade goods.