ColumnistsAug 02, 2022
Why Passing on Lab-Grown Diamonds Might Be a Risky BetColumnistsAug 10, 2022
On Data: What We Know About Jewelry Sales So Far This Year
Sherry Smith digs into year-to-date data on lab-grown vs. natural diamonds, the performance of colored gemstone jewelry, and more.
Sherry Smith is director of business development for data and consulting company The Edge Retail Academy. She can be reached at sherry@edgeretailacademy.com.
In a recent note cited in this Bloomberg article, economists Yelena Shulyatyeva and Andrew Husby wrote: “The June retail sales data implies there’s still enough momentum for the U.S. economy to grow during the rest of the year as consumers find ways to cope with surging inflation, whether by dipping into savings or switching jobs.”
So, what does our data show about sales momentum in jewelry? Let’s take a look at the numbers and see.
Year-to-date numbers for January through July show independent jewelers up 5.8 percent in gross sales when compared with the same period in 2021.
It is worth considering the extent to which increasing prices accounted for that growth, especially in light of year-to-date unit performance.
Number of units sold is down 4.5 percent, while the average retail sale has climbed 10.7 percent.
Overall gross margin continues to increase year-over-year, driving a strong increase of 8.1 percent in gross profit dollars. The better margins retailers make on lab-grown diamonds might be a factor in that increase.
Now, let’s break it down by category, starting with diamonds.
In July, gross sales of loose diamonds (natural and lab-grown) declined a whopping 22 percent while units sold dropped 20 percent. The average retail sale was down as well.
It may be premature to signal a shift from natural to lab-grown, but the data comparisons bear watching.
Related stories will be right here …
So, what does our data show about sales momentum in jewelry? Let’s take a look at the numbers and see.
Year-to-date numbers for January through July show independent jewelers up 5.8 percent in gross sales when compared with the same period in 2021.
It is worth considering the extent to which increasing prices accounted for that growth, especially in light of year-to-date unit performance.
Number of units sold is down 4.5 percent, while the average retail sale has climbed 10.7 percent.
Overall gross margin continues to increase year-over-year, driving a strong increase of 8.1 percent in gross profit dollars. The better margins retailers make on lab-grown diamonds might be a factor in that increase.
Now, let’s break it down by category, starting with diamonds.
In July, gross sales of loose diamonds (natural and lab-grown) declined a whopping 22 percent while units sold dropped 20 percent. The average retail sale was down as well.
It may be premature to signal a shift from natural to lab-grown, but the data comparisons bear watching.
Diamond semi-mounts and diamond engagement rings also saw a decline in gross sales in July, 18 percent and 16 percent, respectively, likely reflecting a decrease in foot traffic into stores.
With respect to lab-grown diamonds specifically, our year-to-date data (January through June; data on lab-grown for July was not yet available) shows lab-grown loose is now 7 percent of total retail loose sales, an increase from 5.3 percent over the same period in 2021.
Lab-grown loose increased 46 percent in gross sales when compared with the same year-to-date period in 2021 and units sold grew 42 percent despite the likelihood of more challenging foot traffic into stores.
We’ve heard lots of questions about the average retail sale of lab-grown loose diamonds. Our year-to-date data (again, through June) of the independent channel shows the overall average retail sale grew by 6 percent.
When we delve into the data, it shows there were decreases in average retail sale in many sizes. However, larger lab-grown diamonds showed significant increases in most of the key performance indicators.
The 3.25- to 3.50-carat range showed a 194 percent increase in gross sales, a 114 percent increase in units sold, and a 25 percent increase in average retail sale, suggesting some customers might be trading up in size from smaller natural diamonds.
The 4.5- to 5-carat range recorded a spike of 582 percent in gross sales, 414 percent in units sold, and 33 percent in average retail sale, and the 5.5- to 6-carat range showed a 78 percent increase in gross sales, a 67 percent increase in units sold, and a 7 percent increase in average retail sale.
The data for lab-grown diamonds 6 carats and above show increase in gross sales and units sold as well as in the average retail sale.
I should also note that smaller lab-grown loose (under 0.60 carats) also grew in average retail sale.
It was the 0.60-carat to 3.25-carat range that showed decreases in the average retail sale, with declines ranging from 5 percent to 21 percent.
As sales for lab-grown loose continue to grow, so do inventory levels, which show a 109 percent increase in cost and a 79 percent increase in units in our year-to-date data.
Overall gross margin for lab-grown loose comes in at a very healthy 62 percent, up from 60 in the previous year-to-date data.
Now I’ll move on to color.
Although colored stone and pearl jewelry only make up about 8 percent of annual jewelry sales, a few categories showed slight increases this July.
Colored stone necklaces showed a 7 percent increase in gross sales and a 20 percent increase in average retail sale but an 11 percent decline in units sold, likely reflecting the aforementioned decrease in foot traffic into retail stores.
Colored stone pendants showed a 4.1 percent increase in gross sales and a 24 percent increase in average retail sale but, again, a 16 percent decline in units sold.
Pearl bracelets showed a 21 percent increase in gross sales, a 22 percent increase in average retail sale, and were flat in units sold.
Watches showed a 1.7 percent increase in gross sales and a 19 percent increase in average retail sale but a double-digit decline in units sold at 14 percent.
Precious metal jewelry without stones declined 7 percent in gross sales and 12 percent in units sold but increased 6 percent in average retail sale.
Precious metal bracelets were the one standout, recording an 11 percent increase in gross sales, a 13 percent increase in average retail sale, and only a slight decline of 1.3 percent in units sold.
All told, growth in overall sales reflects a healthy sales environment for retailers, although a decline in unit sales might signal a marked decline in foot traffic. In addition, year-to-date growth might have some price increases built in, so that is worth watching as prices stabilize.
Gross margin improvements might reflect retailers taking some extra profit on older owned inventory, as well as increased sales of lab-grown diamonds, as mentioned above.
The performance of natural diamonds and semi-mounts may reflect the assumed declines in foot traffic and the continued momentum of lab-grown diamond sales, which showed strength in larger sizes and stones under 0.60 carats.
Although colored stone and pearl jewelry only make up about 8 percent of annual jewelry sales, a few categories showed slight increases this July.
Colored stone necklaces showed a 7 percent increase in gross sales and a 20 percent increase in average retail sale but an 11 percent decline in units sold, likely reflecting the aforementioned decrease in foot traffic into retail stores.
Colored stone pendants showed a 4.1 percent increase in gross sales and a 24 percent increase in average retail sale but, again, a 16 percent decline in units sold.
Pearl bracelets showed a 21 percent increase in gross sales, a 22 percent increase in average retail sale, and were flat in units sold.
Watches showed a 1.7 percent increase in gross sales and a 19 percent increase in average retail sale but a double-digit decline in units sold at 14 percent.
Precious metal jewelry without stones declined 7 percent in gross sales and 12 percent in units sold but increased 6 percent in average retail sale.
Precious metal bracelets were the one standout, recording an 11 percent increase in gross sales, a 13 percent increase in average retail sale, and only a slight decline of 1.3 percent in units sold.
All told, growth in overall sales reflects a healthy sales environment for retailers, although a decline in unit sales might signal a marked decline in foot traffic. In addition, year-to-date growth might have some price increases built in, so that is worth watching as prices stabilize.
Gross margin improvements might reflect retailers taking some extra profit on older owned inventory, as well as increased sales of lab-grown diamonds, as mentioned above.
The performance of natural diamonds and semi-mounts may reflect the assumed declines in foot traffic and the continued momentum of lab-grown diamond sales, which showed strength in larger sizes and stones under 0.60 carats.
More on Columnists
The Latest
Policies & IssuesJan 31, 2023
Rio Tinto Issues Apology After Radioactive Capsule Goes Missing The tiny capsule, which is believed to have fallen out of a truck, was lost somewhere along an 870-mile stretch of desert road.
MajorsJan 31, 2023
Indian Jewelry Brand Tanishq Opens First U.S. Store, More on the WayThe jeweler’s expansion plans include 20 to 30 more stores in North America and the Middle East over the next two to three years.
Events & AwardsJan 31, 2023
Gucci Is Getting a Gem AwardThe Italian luxury brand will receive the first Gem Award for High Jewelry Excellence.
Brought to you by
Bringing Over 130 Years of Diamond Expertise to Modern GradingDe Beers Institute of Diamonds provides the very best in diamond verification, education and diamond services.
MajorsJan 31, 2023
Martin Flyer Names New VP of Business DevelopmentIndustry veteran Kevin Lane has stepped into the role.
Weekly QuizJan 26, 2023
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge with this short test.
MajorsJan 30, 2023
Researchers Uncover Bejeweled ‘Golden Boy’ MummyThe ancient Egyptian teenager was buried 2,300 years ago with 49 amulets to guide him through the afterlife.
SurveysJan 30, 2023
Consumers Embracing Non-Traditional Ways to Mark Valentine’s Day The NRF’s annual survey shows that consumer attitudes about how, or even whether, to celebrate Feb. 14 continue to evolve.
Brought to you by
De Beers Institute of Diamonds Expands to Offer Education De Beers is sharing over 130 years of experience and expertise through the De Beers Institute of Diamonds with a selection of courses.
Events & AwardsJan 30, 2023
JA Is Searching for the Next Retail ’20 Under 40’ Nominations are open now through March 24.
MajorsJan 30, 2023
10 Jewelry News Stories You Might Have MissedA column detailing how independent jewelers did last year and the top watch brands of 2022 were among the most-read stories last week.
FinancialsJan 27, 2023
Tiffany & Co. Shines for LVMH in 2022Acquired in 2021, the brand’s high jewelry sales have doubled and its new “Lock” collection was an instant hit.
MajorsJan 27, 2023
Diamond Council of America Appoints Treasurer, Board MemberExecutives from Fred Meyer Jewelers and Riddles Jewelers have filled the roles.
CollectionsJan 27, 2023
Piece of the Week: Heavenly Vices’ Lock NecklaceThe Victorian-inspired design is a functional lock and key.
Supplier BulletinJan 26, 2023
JA New York Spring Brings the Industry TogetherFor over 100 years, JA New York has played an integral role in facilitating the evolution of our industry, while also honoring past traditions.
TrendsJan 26, 2023
At Vicenzaoro, Paola De Luca Gazes Into Jewelry’s FutureThe trend forecaster and her guests explored unconventional jewelry designs, NFTs, AI art, and more during her Trendvision presentation.
CollectionsJan 26, 2023
NDC and Lorraine Schwartz Announce New ‘EDDI’ ClassThe Emerging Designers Diamond Initiative provides diamond credit and mentorship to young brands helmed by BIPOC designers.
IndependentsJan 26, 2023
Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry Set to Open 10th StoreIt will be located in San Antonio’s Alamo Quarry Market and will be Lee Michaels’ third location in the city.
Policies & IssuesJan 26, 2023
Diamonds Do Good Names 10 to Board of DirectorsStephanie Gottlieb, Jewelers Mutual’s Mike Alexander, and Craig Rottenberg of Long’s Jewelers are among the new board members.
WatchesJan 25, 2023
These Were 2022’s Top-Selling Watch Brands, Chrono24 SaysRolex remained No. 1 while a brand known for its pilot watches slipped into the No. 5 spot.
MajorsJan 25, 2023
John Hardy Names New CEOLuxury retail executive Frédéric Levy has taken on the role.
Events & AwardsJan 25, 2023
Couture DAC Accepting Applications for Mentorship ProgramJewelry designers have until early February to apply to take part in Couture's Diversity Action Council program.
CollectionsJan 25, 2023
Stephanie Gottlieb Announces First President, CCO HireMorgan P. Richardson joins from La Perla.
Policies & IssuesJan 25, 2023
PGI’s New Portal Wants to Teach You About PlatinumThe new portal will share information on responsible platinum sourcing and how it’s used beyond jewelry.
SourcingJan 24, 2023
Tiffany Buys 35 of the Last Diamonds Recovered From Argyle Purchased directly from Rio Tinto, the collection consists of pinks, purples and one red, none larger than 1.52 carats.
GradingJan 24, 2023
GIA Launches AGS Diamond Light Performance Supplement ReportThe AGS Ideal Report by GIA is a digital-only addition to GIA diamond reports.
MajorsJan 24, 2023
WJA Announces New International Board MembersThe seven newcomers include executives from David Yurman, De Beers, and GIA.
EditorsJan 23, 2023
Designers to Watch in 2023: Aurelia DemarkThe designer finds the modernity in classic motifs and family heirloom jewels.
