ColumnistsAug 02, 2022
Why Passing on Lab-Grown Diamonds Might Be a Risky BetColumnistsAug 10, 2022
On Data: What We Know About Jewelry Sales So Far This Year
Sherry Smith digs into year-to-date data on lab-grown vs. natural diamonds, the performance of colored gemstone jewelry, and more.
Sherry Smith is director of business development for data and consulting company The Edge Retail Academy. She can be reached at sherry@edgeretailacademy.com.
In a recent note cited in this Bloomberg article, economists Yelena Shulyatyeva and Andrew Husby wrote: “The June retail sales data implies there’s still enough momentum for the U.S. economy to grow during the rest of the year as consumers find ways to cope with surging inflation, whether by dipping into savings or switching jobs.”
So, what does our data show about sales momentum in jewelry? Let’s take a look at the numbers and see.
Year-to-date numbers for January through July show independent jewelers up 5.8 percent in gross sales when compared with the same period in 2021.
It is worth considering the extent to which increasing prices accounted for that growth, especially in light of year-to-date unit performance.
Number of units sold is down 4.5 percent, while the average retail sale has climbed 10.7 percent.
Overall gross margin continues to increase year-over-year, driving a strong increase of 8.1 percent in gross profit dollars. The better margins retailers make on lab-grown diamonds might be a factor in that increase.
Now, let’s break it down by category, starting with diamonds.
In July, gross sales of loose diamonds (natural and lab-grown) declined a whopping 22 percent while units sold dropped 20 percent. The average retail sale was down as well.
It may be premature to signal a shift from natural to lab-grown, but the data comparisons bear watching.
Related stories will be right here …
So, what does our data show about sales momentum in jewelry? Let’s take a look at the numbers and see.
Year-to-date numbers for January through July show independent jewelers up 5.8 percent in gross sales when compared with the same period in 2021.
It is worth considering the extent to which increasing prices accounted for that growth, especially in light of year-to-date unit performance.
Number of units sold is down 4.5 percent, while the average retail sale has climbed 10.7 percent.
Overall gross margin continues to increase year-over-year, driving a strong increase of 8.1 percent in gross profit dollars. The better margins retailers make on lab-grown diamonds might be a factor in that increase.
Now, let’s break it down by category, starting with diamonds.
In July, gross sales of loose diamonds (natural and lab-grown) declined a whopping 22 percent while units sold dropped 20 percent. The average retail sale was down as well.
It may be premature to signal a shift from natural to lab-grown, but the data comparisons bear watching.
Diamond semi-mounts and diamond engagement rings also saw a decline in gross sales in July, 18 percent and 16 percent, respectively, likely reflecting a decrease in foot traffic into stores.
With respect to lab-grown diamonds specifically, our year-to-date data (January through June; data on lab-grown for July was not yet available) shows lab-grown loose is now 7 percent of total retail loose sales, an increase from 5.3 percent over the same period in 2021.
Lab-grown loose increased 46 percent in gross sales when compared with the same year-to-date period in 2021 and units sold grew 42 percent despite the likelihood of more challenging foot traffic into stores.
We’ve heard lots of questions about the average retail sale of lab-grown loose diamonds. Our year-to-date data (again, through June) of the independent channel shows the overall average retail sale grew by 6 percent.
When we delve into the data, it shows there were decreases in average retail sale in many sizes. However, larger lab-grown diamonds showed significant increases in most of the key performance indicators.
The 3.25- to 3.50-carat range showed a 194 percent increase in gross sales, a 114 percent increase in units sold, and a 25 percent increase in average retail sale, suggesting some customers might be trading up in size from smaller natural diamonds.
The 4.5- to 5-carat range recorded a spike of 582 percent in gross sales, 414 percent in units sold, and 33 percent in average retail sale, and the 5.5- to 6-carat range showed a 78 percent increase in gross sales, a 67 percent increase in units sold, and a 7 percent increase in average retail sale.
The data for lab-grown diamonds 6 carats and above show increase in gross sales and units sold as well as in the average retail sale.
I should also note that smaller lab-grown loose (under 0.60 carats) also grew in average retail sale.
It was the 0.60-carat to 3.25-carat range that showed decreases in the average retail sale, with declines ranging from 5 percent to 21 percent.
As sales for lab-grown loose continue to grow, so do inventory levels, which show a 109 percent increase in cost and a 79 percent increase in units in our year-to-date data.
Overall gross margin for lab-grown loose comes in at a very healthy 62 percent, up from 60 in the previous year-to-date data.
Now I’ll move on to color.
Although colored stone and pearl jewelry only make up about 8 percent of annual jewelry sales, a few categories showed slight increases this July.
Colored stone necklaces showed a 7 percent increase in gross sales and a 20 percent increase in average retail sale but an 11 percent decline in units sold, likely reflecting the aforementioned decrease in foot traffic into retail stores.
Colored stone pendants showed a 4.1 percent increase in gross sales and a 24 percent increase in average retail sale but, again, a 16 percent decline in units sold.
Pearl bracelets showed a 21 percent increase in gross sales, a 22 percent increase in average retail sale, and were flat in units sold.
Watches showed a 1.7 percent increase in gross sales and a 19 percent increase in average retail sale but a double-digit decline in units sold at 14 percent.
Precious metal jewelry without stones declined 7 percent in gross sales and 12 percent in units sold but increased 6 percent in average retail sale.
Precious metal bracelets were the one standout, recording an 11 percent increase in gross sales, a 13 percent increase in average retail sale, and only a slight decline of 1.3 percent in units sold.
All told, growth in overall sales reflects a healthy sales environment for retailers, although a decline in unit sales might signal a marked decline in foot traffic. In addition, year-to-date growth might have some price increases built in, so that is worth watching as prices stabilize.
Gross margin improvements might reflect retailers taking some extra profit on older owned inventory, as well as increased sales of lab-grown diamonds, as mentioned above.
The performance of natural diamonds and semi-mounts may reflect the assumed declines in foot traffic and the continued momentum of lab-grown diamond sales, which showed strength in larger sizes and stones under 0.60 carats.
Although colored stone and pearl jewelry only make up about 8 percent of annual jewelry sales, a few categories showed slight increases this July.
Colored stone necklaces showed a 7 percent increase in gross sales and a 20 percent increase in average retail sale but an 11 percent decline in units sold, likely reflecting the aforementioned decrease in foot traffic into retail stores.
Colored stone pendants showed a 4.1 percent increase in gross sales and a 24 percent increase in average retail sale but, again, a 16 percent decline in units sold.
Pearl bracelets showed a 21 percent increase in gross sales, a 22 percent increase in average retail sale, and were flat in units sold.
Watches showed a 1.7 percent increase in gross sales and a 19 percent increase in average retail sale but a double-digit decline in units sold at 14 percent.
Precious metal jewelry without stones declined 7 percent in gross sales and 12 percent in units sold but increased 6 percent in average retail sale.
Precious metal bracelets were the one standout, recording an 11 percent increase in gross sales, a 13 percent increase in average retail sale, and only a slight decline of 1.3 percent in units sold.
All told, growth in overall sales reflects a healthy sales environment for retailers, although a decline in unit sales might signal a marked decline in foot traffic. In addition, year-to-date growth might have some price increases built in, so that is worth watching as prices stabilize.
Gross margin improvements might reflect retailers taking some extra profit on older owned inventory, as well as increased sales of lab-grown diamonds, as mentioned above.
The performance of natural diamonds and semi-mounts may reflect the assumed declines in foot traffic and the continued momentum of lab-grown diamond sales, which showed strength in larger sizes and stones under 0.60 carats.
More on Columnists
The Latest
CollectionsJul 25, 2025
Piece of the Week: Jemma Wynne’s ‘Forme’ NecklaceAnne Hathaway was seen wearing the toggle necklace three times while filming scenes for “The Devil Wears Prada 2.”
Events & AwardsJul 25, 2025
Pre-Registration Open for September Hong Kong ShowJewellery & Gem World Hong Kong is scheduled for Sept. 15 to 21, and buyer pre-registration will be available until Sept. 7.
FinancialsJul 25, 2025
LVMH Sales Slip in H1 Amid ‘Prevailing Uncertainties’Renovations at Tiffany & Co. stores ate into profits in the company’s watch and jewelry division.
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine JewelryAs a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.
Events & AwardsJul 24, 2025
2 Retailers to Receive 2026 Gem Award for Lifetime AchievementMark and Candy Udell of London Jewelers will receive the honor at the 24th annual Gem Awards next March.
Weekly QuizJul 25, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SourcingJul 24, 2025
De Beers Sees Diamond Production Sink 36% in Q2 While struggles continue at the mining and trading end of the pipeline, consumer demand for diamond jewelry is holding steady.
CollectionsJul 24, 2025
Francesca Villa Adds Dimension to Her Intaglio CharactersThe “Fantasia” jewelry collection turns the intaglio animals from her “Close Encounters” collection into 3D characters.
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench JewelersThe Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.
WatchesJul 24, 2025
Breitling Drops Super Bowl Watch Honoring the Philadelphia Eagles The special Classic Avi Chronograph 42 with an Eagles-green dial is limited to 59 pieces, a nod to the Super Bowl Philadelphia just won.
CrimeJul 23, 2025
JSA Warns of Violent String of Smash-and-Grabs in California JSA has received reports of mobs swarming jewelry stores, driving cars into the storefront or smashing through the windows.
CollectionsJul 23, 2025
Silvia Furmanovich’s ‘Kashmir’ Collection Is a Tribute to Northern IndiaThe “Kashmir” collection features centuries-old craft techniques made in collaboration with the region’s master papier-mâché artisans.
IndependentsJul 23, 2025
Montreal’s Ecksand Eyes Move to SoHoCreative Director Erica Bianchini shared why the jeweler is looking to expand into the U.S. and how it’s putting Canadian craftsmanship on the map.
IndependentsJul 23, 2025
IJO Raises Nearly $37K for LA Fire Relief Two Los Angeles Fire Department stations plan to use the donations to upgrade their equipment and tools.
CollectionsJul 22, 2025
Jewelry With a Rock ‘n’ Roll Aesthetic Heads to Sotheby’s LondonNext week, the auction house will kick off a selling exhibition of jewelry by British artist Hannah Martin and Coldplay’s Guy Berryman.
SourcingJul 22, 2025
Antwerp Diamond Heist Documentary Coming to Netflix“Stolen: Heist of the Century” is based on “Flawless,” the book about the middle-of-the-night theft, and will debut on Netflix in August.
Events & AwardsJul 22, 2025
NY Now’s Summer Market Returns in AugustThe wholesale trade show’s Luxury Lifestyle section will showcase established and emerging jewelry designers.
MajorsJul 21, 2025
Rio Grande Expands Personalization OfferingsAs demand for custom jewelry grows, the company is expanding its services to support retailers.
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2025
NAJA’s 2025 ‘Ace It’ Conference To Go VirtualThe mid-year conference for jewelry and watch appraisers is slated for Aug. 9 to 10 on Zoom.
TrendsJul 21, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Graduated With Honors Graduated stones make for elevated tennis-style pieces and dramatic statement necklaces.
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2025
Gem Awards Now Accepting Nominations for 2026Nominations in the categories of Jewelry Design, Media Excellence, and Retail Innovation will be accepted through July 30.
MajorsJul 18, 2025
Lewis Heyman on Sourcing Gemstones, Post-Retirement PlansHe retired last month after 28 years traveling the world to source the very best gemstones for his family’s jewelry business, Oscar Heyman.
TrendsJul 18, 2025
Piece of the Week: CCWW Designs’ Shell Charm NecklaceThe charm necklace features six nautical charms of shells and coral that founder Christina Puchi collected on Florida’s beaches.
MajorsJul 18, 2025
Plumb Club Elects New Board MembersThe organization elected its youngest vice president as it looks to draw in fresh talent.
TechnologyJul 18, 2025
Brad Campbell, John Liebler Join Clientbook’s Executive Team Campbell joins the company as vice president of business development while Liebler is the new vice president of operations.
CollectionsJul 17, 2025
2026 Winter Olympic Medal Design Symbolizes UnityThe medals feature a split-texture design highlighting the Games’ first time being hosted by two cities and the athletes’ journeys.
Supplier BulletinJul 17, 2025
The INSTORE Jewelry Show 2025: Your Holiday Preparations, All Wrapped Up! Sponsored by The INSTORE Jewelry Show 2025
SurveysJul 17, 2025
The Most Recommended Brands in the World, According to YouGovGlobally, travel and transportation brands reigned, while in the U.S., alcoholic beverage companies and a lingerie brand took the top spots.
