ColumnistsAug 02, 2022
Why Passing on Lab-Grown Diamonds Might Be a Risky BetColumnistsAug 10, 2022
On Data: What We Know About Jewelry Sales So Far This Year
Sherry Smith digs into year-to-date data on lab-grown vs. natural diamonds, the performance of colored gemstone jewelry, and more.
Sherry Smith is director of business development for data and consulting company The Edge Retail Academy. She can be reached at sherry@edgeretailacademy.com.
In a recent note cited in this Bloomberg article, economists Yelena Shulyatyeva and Andrew Husby wrote: “The June retail sales data implies there’s still enough momentum for the U.S. economy to grow during the rest of the year as consumers find ways to cope with surging inflation, whether by dipping into savings or switching jobs.”
So, what does our data show about sales momentum in jewelry? Let’s take a look at the numbers and see.
Year-to-date numbers for January through July show independent jewelers up 5.8 percent in gross sales when compared with the same period in 2021.
It is worth considering the extent to which increasing prices accounted for that growth, especially in light of year-to-date unit performance.
Number of units sold is down 4.5 percent, while the average retail sale has climbed 10.7 percent.
Overall gross margin continues to increase year-over-year, driving a strong increase of 8.1 percent in gross profit dollars. The better margins retailers make on lab-grown diamonds might be a factor in that increase.
Now, let’s break it down by category, starting with diamonds.
In July, gross sales of loose diamonds (natural and lab-grown) declined a whopping 22 percent while units sold dropped 20 percent. The average retail sale was down as well.
It may be premature to signal a shift from natural to lab-grown, but the data comparisons bear watching.
Related stories will be right here …
So, what does our data show about sales momentum in jewelry? Let’s take a look at the numbers and see.
Year-to-date numbers for January through July show independent jewelers up 5.8 percent in gross sales when compared with the same period in 2021.
It is worth considering the extent to which increasing prices accounted for that growth, especially in light of year-to-date unit performance.
Number of units sold is down 4.5 percent, while the average retail sale has climbed 10.7 percent.
Overall gross margin continues to increase year-over-year, driving a strong increase of 8.1 percent in gross profit dollars. The better margins retailers make on lab-grown diamonds might be a factor in that increase.
Now, let’s break it down by category, starting with diamonds.
In July, gross sales of loose diamonds (natural and lab-grown) declined a whopping 22 percent while units sold dropped 20 percent. The average retail sale was down as well.
It may be premature to signal a shift from natural to lab-grown, but the data comparisons bear watching.
Diamond semi-mounts and diamond engagement rings also saw a decline in gross sales in July, 18 percent and 16 percent, respectively, likely reflecting a decrease in foot traffic into stores.
With respect to lab-grown diamonds specifically, our year-to-date data (January through June; data on lab-grown for July was not yet available) shows lab-grown loose is now 7 percent of total retail loose sales, an increase from 5.3 percent over the same period in 2021.
Lab-grown loose increased 46 percent in gross sales when compared with the same year-to-date period in 2021 and units sold grew 42 percent despite the likelihood of more challenging foot traffic into stores.
We’ve heard lots of questions about the average retail sale of lab-grown loose diamonds. Our year-to-date data (again, through June) of the independent channel shows the overall average retail sale grew by 6 percent.
When we delve into the data, it shows there were decreases in average retail sale in many sizes. However, larger lab-grown diamonds showed significant increases in most of the key performance indicators.
The 3.25- to 3.50-carat range showed a 194 percent increase in gross sales, a 114 percent increase in units sold, and a 25 percent increase in average retail sale, suggesting some customers might be trading up in size from smaller natural diamonds.
The 4.5- to 5-carat range recorded a spike of 582 percent in gross sales, 414 percent in units sold, and 33 percent in average retail sale, and the 5.5- to 6-carat range showed a 78 percent increase in gross sales, a 67 percent increase in units sold, and a 7 percent increase in average retail sale.
The data for lab-grown diamonds 6 carats and above show increase in gross sales and units sold as well as in the average retail sale.
I should also note that smaller lab-grown loose (under 0.60 carats) also grew in average retail sale.
It was the 0.60-carat to 3.25-carat range that showed decreases in the average retail sale, with declines ranging from 5 percent to 21 percent.
As sales for lab-grown loose continue to grow, so do inventory levels, which show a 109 percent increase in cost and a 79 percent increase in units in our year-to-date data.
Overall gross margin for lab-grown loose comes in at a very healthy 62 percent, up from 60 in the previous year-to-date data.
Now I’ll move on to color.
Although colored stone and pearl jewelry only make up about 8 percent of annual jewelry sales, a few categories showed slight increases this July.
Colored stone necklaces showed a 7 percent increase in gross sales and a 20 percent increase in average retail sale but an 11 percent decline in units sold, likely reflecting the aforementioned decrease in foot traffic into retail stores.
Colored stone pendants showed a 4.1 percent increase in gross sales and a 24 percent increase in average retail sale but, again, a 16 percent decline in units sold.
Pearl bracelets showed a 21 percent increase in gross sales, a 22 percent increase in average retail sale, and were flat in units sold.
Watches showed a 1.7 percent increase in gross sales and a 19 percent increase in average retail sale but a double-digit decline in units sold at 14 percent.
Precious metal jewelry without stones declined 7 percent in gross sales and 12 percent in units sold but increased 6 percent in average retail sale.
Precious metal bracelets were the one standout, recording an 11 percent increase in gross sales, a 13 percent increase in average retail sale, and only a slight decline of 1.3 percent in units sold.
All told, growth in overall sales reflects a healthy sales environment for retailers, although a decline in unit sales might signal a marked decline in foot traffic. In addition, year-to-date growth might have some price increases built in, so that is worth watching as prices stabilize.
Gross margin improvements might reflect retailers taking some extra profit on older owned inventory, as well as increased sales of lab-grown diamonds, as mentioned above.
The performance of natural diamonds and semi-mounts may reflect the assumed declines in foot traffic and the continued momentum of lab-grown diamond sales, which showed strength in larger sizes and stones under 0.60 carats.
Although colored stone and pearl jewelry only make up about 8 percent of annual jewelry sales, a few categories showed slight increases this July.
Colored stone necklaces showed a 7 percent increase in gross sales and a 20 percent increase in average retail sale but an 11 percent decline in units sold, likely reflecting the aforementioned decrease in foot traffic into retail stores.
Colored stone pendants showed a 4.1 percent increase in gross sales and a 24 percent increase in average retail sale but, again, a 16 percent decline in units sold.
Pearl bracelets showed a 21 percent increase in gross sales, a 22 percent increase in average retail sale, and were flat in units sold.
Watches showed a 1.7 percent increase in gross sales and a 19 percent increase in average retail sale but a double-digit decline in units sold at 14 percent.
Precious metal jewelry without stones declined 7 percent in gross sales and 12 percent in units sold but increased 6 percent in average retail sale.
Precious metal bracelets were the one standout, recording an 11 percent increase in gross sales, a 13 percent increase in average retail sale, and only a slight decline of 1.3 percent in units sold.
All told, growth in overall sales reflects a healthy sales environment for retailers, although a decline in unit sales might signal a marked decline in foot traffic. In addition, year-to-date growth might have some price increases built in, so that is worth watching as prices stabilize.
Gross margin improvements might reflect retailers taking some extra profit on older owned inventory, as well as increased sales of lab-grown diamonds, as mentioned above.
The performance of natural diamonds and semi-mounts may reflect the assumed declines in foot traffic and the continued momentum of lab-grown diamond sales, which showed strength in larger sizes and stones under 0.60 carats.
More on Columnists
The Latest
MajorsSep 22, 2026
Foundrae’s Lawsuit Against Pandora Can Continue, Court RulesA federal judge denied Pandora’s motion to dismiss Foundrae’s claim for copyright infringement of its medallions.
IndependentsSep 22, 2026
Constance Polamalu Named to '40 Under 40' ListThe Baltimore Business Journal recognized the entrepreneur for her leadership in business and the jewelry industry.
GradingSep 22, 2026
GCAL by Sarine Opens New Lab in MumbaiThe facility is located within SEEPZ and is GCAL by Sarine’s second location in India, joining its existing grading lab in Surat.
Brought to you by
Meet Gemology’s Next Generation Microscope: GIA® Gemolite® NXT Professional EditionExperience gemstones with greater precision and comfort than ever before.
Events & AwardsSep 22, 2026
NYCJAOS Returns for Autumn EditionThe four-day show is slated for Nov. 19-22 at the Metropolitan Pavilion in New York City’s Chelsea neighborhood.
Weekly QuizSep 17, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
AuctionsSep 21, 2026
Ultra-Rare Cartier Cheich Watch Sells for $3.4M Offered at Sotheby’s Hong Kong, the one-of-a-kind white gold watch now holds the title of most valuable Cartier wristwatch sold at auction.
MajorsSep 21, 2026
Longtime Industry Executive Pamela Bernstein-Gulla to RetireBernstein-Gulla has been working in the jewelry industry for 40 years, most recently as chief engagement officer for Hill & Co.
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk AboutSubmit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.
IndependentsSep 21, 2026
Bhindi Jewelers Moves Into New, Larger California StoreThe relocated Glendale store, now at The Americana at Brand, was designed to be a contemporary “timepiece haven” inspired by luxury resorts.
AuctionsSep 18, 2026
7.52-Carat Unheated Paraíba Tourmaline Sells for $1.3M at Sotheby’s The top lot of the auction house’s Hong Kong jewelry sale was an Art Deco Mauboussin necklace with ruby beads, which sold for $2 million.
Policies & IssuesSep 18, 2026
Tariffs, Retail Crime Top of Mind at JA’s Annual Fly-In Retailers and manufacturers headed to the Capitol this week to discuss tariff exemptions for diamonds and gemstones, among other issues.
CollectionsSep 18, 2026
Nanis Transforms Its ‘Boule’ Into a Mirror Our Piece of the Week is a pair of drop earrings from the “Sway” collection featuring Nanis’ first use of mirror-polished gold.
GradingSep 18, 2026
De Beers Introduces Faster Version of Diamond Screening Machine SynthDetect 2 can scan a full tray in less than five minutes, De Beers said, making it six times faster than its predecessors.
AuctionsSep 18, 2026
Noonans To Auction Medieval Gold Seal Ring Recovered By 2 FriendsTwo metal detectorists discovered the ring, which may have belonged to English noblewoman Matilda of Lancaster, in Suffolk.
Policies & IssuesSep 17, 2026
Tariffs on India Could Increase as Russian Sanctions Bill Heads to Trump’s DeskThe bill has a provision that allows the president to raise tariffs on countries that import Russian oil and gas to as much as 100 percent.
Events & AwardsSep 17, 2026
This Is the Winner of the 2026 Robert M. Shipley AwardThe American Gem Society presented the annual award to a former president of its board.
CollectionsSep 17, 2026
Cynthia Erivo, Zoë Chicco’s Jewelry Collab Is an Ode to TransformationThe “Chrysalis” capsule centers butterfly motifs representing growth, transformation, and the unfolding of who you are.
Events & AwardsSep 17, 2026
Louisiana Retailer Kevin Patton Wins Lifetime Achievement AwardJewelers of Louisiana presented Patton, the third-generation president of Pattons Fine Jewelry, with the award at its annual convention.
PodcastsSep 16, 2026
Episode 9: Remembering Cindy EdelsteinTwo special guests join the podcast to commemorate the 10th anniversary of the designer advocate, mentor, and author’s untimely passing.
CollectionsSep 16, 2026
Jessica McCormack, L’Objet Collab on Homewares CollectionMcCormack brings sea-inspired motifs from her “Beaches” collection to L’Objet’s tableware, vanity pieces, and first-ever cutlery set.
CrimeSep 16, 2026
JSA Issues Warning to NJ Jewelers After Rash of Smash and GrabsNine New Jersey jewelers have been victims of smash-and-grab robberies this year, prompting JSA to circulate a list of recommendations.
IndependentsSep 16, 2026
Bromberg & Co. Names New PresidentMarlin “Brian” Hood, who has been with the store for 20 years, will succeed Ricky Bromberg, who died earlier this month.
MajorsSep 16, 2026
Midas Chain Releases ‘House of Midas’ Bridal CatalogThe new bridal catalog features the latest jewelry collections and designs from timeless classics to modern silhouettes.
EditorsSep 15, 2026
2026 Emmys Jewelry: An Either/Or Proposition Stars wore either a necklace or earrings at 78th Primetime Emmy Awards but rarely both, Natalie Francisco notes.
IndependentsSep 15, 2026
Armadani Launches Retail Support Program for Holiday SeasonThe program highlights “Made in Italy” fine jewelry with digital merchandising, sales education, and local marketing support.
EditorsSep 15, 2026
Q&A: Signet Jewelers’ Joan Hilson on Diamond Demand, the HolidaysHilson, Signet’s chief operating and financial officer, discussed Q2, resurgent natural diamond demand, and why Blue Nile is a standout.
ColumnistsSep 14, 2026
Sherry Smith: Stop Waiting for December to Save Your ChristmasThe stores that have a great December are the ones that made good decisions in August, September, and October, Sherry Smith writes.
