Grading

GCAL Expands 8X Cut Grade to Fancy Diamond Shapes

GradingMay 05, 2022

GCAL Expands 8X Cut Grade to Fancy Diamond Shapes

It will introduce the 8X Oval and 8X Princess Diamond Cut Grade certificates at the upcoming JCK Las Vegas jewelry trade show.

20220505_GCAL-8X-Fancies.jpg
New York-based Gem Certification & Assurance Lab has introduced a new diamond cut grade standard for fancy shapes, called the 8X Ultimate Diamond Cut Grade.
New York—A year after launching 8X, a new cut grade standard for round brilliant diamonds, the Gem Certification & Assurance Lab has expanded it to fancy shapes. 
 
The lab introduced the 8X Ultimate Diamond Cut Grade in April 2021 to reflect advancements in diamond cutting technology and techniques and the resulting cuts from the top diamond manufacturers. 
 
The cut grade takes eight factors into account. (GIA, for comparison, bases its cut grade on seven factors.)
 
The lab said it received many requests for the development of 8X for fancy shapes after its introduction. 
 
So, it created the new 8X Fancy Shape Diamond Cut Grade, notable since fancy shape diamonds are typically graded for polish and symmetry only. 

The new cut grade from GCAL considers eight critical factors: polish, external symmetry, proportions, optical brilliance, fire, scintillation, optical symmetry, and shape aesthetics.
 
Similar to the 8X evaluation of round brilliants, polish, external symmetry, and proportions focus on physical precision of the diamond’s surface, facet shapes, and angles. Optical brilliance, fire, and scintillation analyze how a diamond handles light.
 
The final two grading factors, optical symmetry, and shape aesthetics, are about optical precision, or the craftsmanship of the crown and pavilion facets and how they work together.

Angelo Palmieri, GCAL COO and partner, said the lab has a “vast wealth of analytical images and data” from all the stones that have passed through it since it opened in 2000, including millions of photomicrographs, direct assessment images of optical brilliance, optical symmetry, scintillation, fire, and measurements.
 
 Related stories will be right here … 
 
This positioned them well to build correlation tables between proportions and performance, he said. For ovals, for example, they developed datamining software to analyze images and build custom applications to calculate bowtie and shoulder bulge.
 
“As a result, I believe a diamond certificate has been created that honors the exceptional craftsmanship in fancy shape diamond cutting. And not merely with words, but with analytical and visual analysis that backs up those claims,” Palmieri said. 
 
“This is the proof retailers need to demonstrate a diamond’s brilliance, fire, scintillation, and beauty, and it’s the visual, scientific, and accurate proof consumers have been looking for to make a more informed decision.”

The cut grade can be used for both natural diamonds and lab-grown diamonds. 
 
The corresponding reports are priced the same as those for the 8X Ultimate Diamond Cut Grade and look similar to those created for the round brilliants. 
 
GCAL will introduce the 8X Oval and 8X Princess Diamond Cut Grade certificates at the upcoming JCK Las Vegas jewelry trade show. 
 
Additional 8X fancies will be introduced later this year, GCAL said, confirming that cushions will be up next. 
 
For more information, visit GCALUSA.com.

The Latest

CCWW lifesaver necklace
CollectionsAug 26, 2025
Does Your Jewelry Stack Need a Snack?

Designer Christina Puchi, the creative force behind CCWW Designs, has created charms and pendants based on iconic candies and crackers.

Nick Jonas x Fossil Campaign
WatchesAug 26, 2025
Nick Jonas Gets Nostalgic in New Fossil Campaign

The Jonas Brothers star showed off new timepieces against the backdrop of his favorite spots in his home state of New Jersey.

Wally Hinkamp and Donna Hinkamp Warren
IndependentsAug 26, 2025
Hinkamp Jewelers Celebrates 70 Years

The family-owned jeweler in Fayetteville, North Carolina, is in the hands of the second generation.

japac-btyb.png
Brought to you by
Rallying Call for the Jewelry Industry on Tariffs and Other Key Issues

Jewelers of America is leading the charge to protect the industry amidst rising economic threats.

Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsAug 26, 2025
Back to School, Back to Style: Why August is Prime Time for Self-Gifting

In his latest column, Emmanuel Raheb shares tips for encouraging customers to treat themselves to new jewelry.

Weekly QuizAug 22, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
London Jewelers Rolex East Hampton Boutique Exterior
WatchesAug 25, 2025
London Jewelers Brings Rolex to Historic Hamptons Home

The new stand-alone Rolex boutique is housed in the former Odd Fellows Hall, a landmark built in 1897.

Madison Keys
CollectionsAug 25, 2025
Tennis Star Madison Keys Has the Perfect Necklace for the US Open

The Brilliant Earth ambassador co-designed a diamond medallion featuring meaningful symbols.

rio-article photo-diamond.jpg
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine Jewelry

As a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.

Marie Lichtenberg emerald and diamond locket on the 18-karat gold “Rosa” chain
TrendsAug 25, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: That’s a Wrap

Wrap jewelry is more than just a trend; it’s the perfect motif for the coming season of layering, scarves, and pumpkin spice.

WatchTime New York
WatchesAug 25, 2025
WatchTime NY Show Returns for 10th Anniversary Edition

The three-day watch collector show, coming this October, will feature 44 exhibiting brands, as well as a new dinner experience.

Retrouvaí Diamond Vein Bond Collar
CollectionsAug 22, 2025
Piece of the Week: Retrouvaí’s ‘Diamond Vein Bond’ Collar

The one-of-a-kind collar represents the beauty of imperfection and the strength to rebuild.

Kendra Scott
MajorsAug 22, 2025
Kendra Scott Returns as CEO of Her Jewelry Empire

Three C-suite executives, including former CEO Tom Nolan, have resigned as part of what the company describes as a “transition.”

Claire’s storefront
MajorsAug 21, 2025
Claire’s Finds Buyer, Could Save up to 950 Stores

The retailer, which recently filed Chapter 11, inked a deal to sell its North American business and intellectual property.

Target CEO Brian Cornell and COO Michael Fiddelke
MajorsAug 21, 2025
Target Names New CEO as Sales Continue to Lag

Target CEO Brian Cornell will step down in February and be replaced by the company’s chief operating officer, Michael Fiddelke.

Jewelers of America in Washington DC
Policies & IssuesAug 21, 2025
JA, IDMA Talk Tariffs With Execs in DC

The group met with the president's senior trade advisor earlier this week to express the industry’s concerns about the effects of tariffs.

Tiffany & Co. Pop Up at U.S. Open
MajorsAug 21, 2025
Tiffany & Co. Pops Up at 2025 US Open

The pop-up will display this year's Tiffany & Co. Singles Championship trophies along with a diamond-encrusted tennis racket and ball.

Bellman’s Jewelers The Truthful Jeweler Alex Bellman
IndependentsAug 20, 2025
Bellman’s Jewelers Opens Second Store After COO's TikTok Takes Off

The New Hampshire-based store has expanded to Boston, propelled by the success of Alex Bellman’s TikTok page, “The Truthful Jeweler.”

Stock image of police cars with lights flashing
CrimeAug 20, 2025
Another CA Jewelry Store Rammed With Car, Robbed

The latest incident happened Monday at a store in Oakland, California, continuing a pattern JSA first warned about last month.

Oris New York Harbor Limited Edition II Watch
WatchesAug 20, 2025
Oris Launches Watch Benefiting NYC Harbor Oyster Restoration

The new aqua green New York Harbor Limited Edition II is the watchmaker’s second collaboration with the Billion Oyster Project.

Jewelers for Children logo
Events & AwardsAug 20, 2025
Take the Jewelers for Children ‘Trinity of Purpose’ Challenge

Participants who attend any three Rings of Strength events will be awarded a special medal.

Lulo Rose pink diamond
SourcingAug 19, 2025
Dubai’s Jemora Group Buys Diamond Miner Lucapa

The investment company, founded by Dev Shetty, has acquired the struggling miner and its assets, including the Lulo mine in Angola.

National Jeweler columnist and jewelry sales expert Peter Smith
ColumnistsAug 19, 2025
Peter Smith: The Arrival Fallacy and Jewelry Retail

Smith shares wisdom he gleaned from a podcast he was listening to one morning while being walked by his dog, a Malshi named Sophie.

Fake Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra earrings
CrimeAug 19, 2025
Customs Seizes 7,300 Pairs of Fake ‘Alhambra’ Earrings

The counterfeit Van Cleef & Arpels jewels would have been worth more than $30 million if genuine.

MJSA Logo
MajorsAug 19, 2025
MJSA Apprenticeship Program Is Nationally Recognized

The MJSA Mentor & Apprenticeship Program received the Registered Apprenticeship Program designation by the U.S. Department of Labor.

Masaki Obu
WatchesAug 19, 2025
Casio America Names New Timepiece Division Manager

Casio executive and watch enthusiast Masaki Obu is the new general manager of its U.S. timepiece division.

Michael Barabash and husband Raymond Cuadrado
MajorsAug 18, 2025
Verragio’s Michael Barabash, a ‘Kind Soul,’ Dies at 58

Barabash, Verragio’s client relations representative, was a vital member of the team and is remembered as being warm and full of life.

John Hardy Dot Coil Necklace and Dot Hoop Earrings
CollectionsAug 18, 2025
John Hardy’s New ‘Dot’ Collection Is on Point

Originally introduced in 1992, the “Dot” collection is back with a capsule featuring five archival designs and three new creations.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy