GradingJan 27, 2022
Boucheron Taps Sarine for Diamond ReportsGradingMay 05, 2022
GCAL Expands 8X Cut Grade to Fancy Diamond Shapes
It will introduce the 8X Oval and 8X Princess Diamond Cut Grade certificates at the upcoming JCK Las Vegas jewelry trade show.
New York-based Gem Certification & Assurance Lab has introduced a new diamond cut grade standard for fancy shapes, called the 8X Ultimate Diamond Cut Grade.
New York—A year after launching 8X, a new cut grade standard for round brilliant diamonds, the Gem Certification & Assurance Lab has expanded it to fancy shapes.
The lab introduced the 8X Ultimate Diamond Cut Grade in April 2021 to reflect advancements in diamond cutting technology and techniques and the resulting cuts from the top diamond manufacturers.
The cut grade takes eight factors into account. (GIA, for comparison, bases its cut grade on seven factors.)
The lab said it received many requests for the development of 8X for fancy shapes after its introduction.
So, it created the new 8X Fancy Shape Diamond Cut Grade, notable since fancy shape diamonds are typically graded for polish and symmetry only.
The new cut grade from GCAL considers eight critical factors: polish, external symmetry, proportions, optical brilliance, fire, scintillation, optical symmetry, and shape aesthetics.
The new cut grade from GCAL considers eight critical factors: polish, external symmetry, proportions, optical brilliance, fire, scintillation, optical symmetry, and shape aesthetics.
Similar to the 8X evaluation of round brilliants, polish, external symmetry, and proportions focus on physical precision of the diamond’s surface, facet shapes, and angles. Optical brilliance, fire, and scintillation analyze how a diamond handles light.
The final two grading factors, optical symmetry, and shape aesthetics, are about optical precision, or the craftsmanship of the crown and pavilion facets and how they work together.
Angelo Palmieri, GCAL COO and partner, said the lab has a “vast wealth of analytical images and data” from all the stones that have passed through it since it opened in 2000, including millions of photomicrographs, direct assessment images of optical brilliance, optical symmetry, scintillation, fire, and measurements.
Angelo Palmieri, GCAL COO and partner, said the lab has a “vast wealth of analytical images and data” from all the stones that have passed through it since it opened in 2000, including millions of photomicrographs, direct assessment images of optical brilliance, optical symmetry, scintillation, fire, and measurements.
This positioned them well to build correlation tables between proportions and performance, he said. For ovals, for example, they developed datamining software to analyze images and build custom applications to calculate bowtie and shoulder bulge.
“As a result, I believe a diamond certificate has been created that honors the exceptional craftsmanship in fancy shape diamond cutting. And not merely with words, but with analytical and visual analysis that backs up those claims,” Palmieri said.
“This is the proof retailers need to demonstrate a diamond’s brilliance, fire, scintillation, and beauty, and it’s the visual, scientific, and accurate proof consumers have been looking for to make a more informed decision.”
The cut grade can be used for both natural diamonds and lab-grown diamonds.
The cut grade can be used for both natural diamonds and lab-grown diamonds.
The corresponding reports are priced the same as those for the 8X Ultimate Diamond Cut Grade and look similar to those created for the round brilliants.
GCAL will introduce the 8X Oval and 8X Princess Diamond Cut Grade certificates at the upcoming JCK Las Vegas jewelry trade show.
Additional 8X fancies will be introduced later this year, GCAL said, confirming that cushions will be up next.
For more information, visit GCALUSA.com.
More on Grading
The Latest
EditorsJun 17, 2025
The Best New Jewelry from Couture 2025, Part 1Associate Editor Natalie Francisco shares 20 of her favorite pieces from the jewelry collections that debuted at Couture.
ColumnistsJun 17, 2025
Peter Smith: Is Your Comp Plan a Hiring Hindrance?If you want to attract good salespeople and generate a stream of “sleeping money” for your jewelry store, then you are going to have to pay.
AuctionsJun 17, 2025
Colored Gemstones, Signed Jewels Shine in Sotheby’s High Jewelry SaleThe top lot was a colorless Graff diamond, followed by a Burmese ruby necklace by Marcus & Co.
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench JewelersThe Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.
MajorsJun 17, 2025
Amanda Gizzi Gets a Promotion at JAGizzi, who has been in the industry since 2001, is now Jewelers of America’s senior vice president of corporate affairs.
Weekly QuizJun 12, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
MajorsJun 17, 2025
Kering Names Automotive Exec as Its New CEOLuca de Meo, a 30-year veteran of the auto industry, will succeed longtime CEO François-Henri Pinault.
EditorsJun 16, 2025
Q&A: Bogolo Joy Kenewendo on Mining, Tariffs, and the Energy of Las VegasFollowing visits to Vegas and New York, Botswana’s minerals minster sat down with Michelle Graff to discuss the state of the diamond market.
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America is Headed to Las Vegas for JCK 2025The countdown is on for the JCK Las Vegas Show and JA is pulling out all the stops.
IndependentsJun 16, 2025
Greenwich St. Jewelers Launches Commitment Campaign Celebrating LGBTQ+ CouplesThe “Your Love Has the Perfect Ring” campaign showcases the strength of love and need for inclusivity and representation, the jeweler said.
MajorsJun 16, 2025
Ivette Nersesyan-Stephanopoulos Joins Tiffany & Co.The former De Beers executive is the jewelry house’s new director of high jewelry for the Americas.
MajorsJun 16, 2025
Catbird Names WNBA Star Nyara Sabally as Its New Brand AmbassadorThe New York Liberty forward is the first athlete to represent the Brooklyn-based jewelry brand.
CollectionsJun 13, 2025
Piece of the Week: Robinson Pelham’s Pear EarringsTake a bite out of the 14-karat yellow gold “Fruits of Love Pear” earrings featuring peridots, diamond stems, and tsavorite leaves.
Events & AwardsJun 13, 2025
AGA to Host ‘Diamonds From Mine to Market’ Education ConferenceThe one-day virtual event will feature speakers from De Beers, GIA, and Gemworld International.
EditorsJun 12, 2025
15 Questions With Jewelry Photographer Ella SophieThe California-based creative talks jewelry photography in the modern era and tackles FAQs about working with a pro for the first time.
AuctionsJun 12, 2025
Vintage Patek Philippe From the ‘50s Sells for $4M at Sotheby’s Al Capone’s pocket watch also found a buyer, though it went for less than half of what it did at auction four years ago.
Events & AwardsJun 12, 2025
Gabriel Love Foundation Introduces Scholarship Honoring Elias GabrielThe foundation has also expanded its “Stronger Together” initiative with Jewelers for Children.
AuctionsJun 12, 2025
Former De Beers Exec Celine Assimon Joins BonhamsAssimon is the auction house’s new chief commercial officer.
EditorsJun 11, 2025
Q&A: Al Cook on Differentiating Natural Diamonds, Traceability, and TariffsThe De Beers Group CEO discusses the company’s new “beacon” program, the likelihood diamonds will be exempt from tariffs, and “Origin.”
MajorsJun 11, 2025
Pandora Bets on Las Vegas for First North American FlagshipThe Danish jewelry giant hosted its grand opening last weekend, complete with a Pandora pink roulette wheel.
Events & AwardsJun 11, 2025
Kering Announces Winners of Sustainability-Focused AwardThe winners of the inaugural “Kering Generation Award x Jewelry” are student Lee Min Seo and China-based startup Ianyan.
SourcingJun 10, 2025
De Beers Turns to Brown, Yellow Diamonds for New ‘Beacon’“Ombré Desert Diamonds” will emphasize cream-, champagne-, and brown-colored diamonds, shades that set natural stones apart from lab grown.
AuctionsJun 10, 2025
Noonans to Auction 16th-Century Signet RingIt's one of the “Gresham grasshopper” rings English financier Sir Thomas Gresham was known to gift to acquaintances or business associates.
CollectionsJun 10, 2025
Tabayer Names Mary Chiam as CEOThe brand also debuted its new “Zorae” collection featuring a talisman of protection and harmony inspired by a sheaf of wheat.
MajorsJun 10, 2025
Lauren Johansen Joins Loudr As Loudr’s new account manager, Johansen will partner with clients to craft and execute marketing strategies.
Events & AwardsJun 09, 2025
And the Winners of the 2025 Couture Design Awards Are … Designers were recognized in 12 categories, from platinum to pearls, before the evening ended with a new, retail-focused award.
AuctionsJun 09, 2025
Nancy Astor’s Cartier Tiara Sells for $1.2MThe rare turquoise and diamond jewel was the top lot at Bonhams’ June jewelry sale.
IndependentsJun 09, 2025
Here Are the 2025 Retailer Hall of Fame InducteesThis year’s honorees include a Midwest retailer and two multi-store independents, one in New York and the other in New England.
