Editors

This Is My Favorite Fine Jewelry Collection of the Year

EditorsDec 23, 2020

This Is My Favorite Fine Jewelry Collection of the Year

Azlee consistently delivers an irresistible modern sophistication, inspired by the past.

20201223_Azlee-header.jpg
Azlee’s “Modern Byzantine” coin necklaces, sold as charms or on chains, and the emerald bead necklace
In a tumultuous year, many fine jewelry designers took the time to look inward, delving into their creative processes and finding inspiration for new pieces.

Los Angeles-based Azlee, helmed by Baylee Zwart, seemed to hit its stride, interpreting the hottest current jewelry trends, like medallions, detachable and mix-and-match-able charms and chains to hang them on, through its own sophisticated viewpoint.

In recent years, Azlee has pared down its core collections, editing out daintier styles while retaining some of its boldest Deco-inspired graphic jewels.

The brand also found a new sweet spot, delving into ancient symbols and reproducing them on gold coin-like medallions.

In 2020 Zwart continued to mine these influences, looking to Ancient Greek, Roman, Sicilian and Spanish cultures and finding new ways to incorporate their symbolism into her collection, like as gold-dipped Venetian glass coins.

Zwart added animals—eagles, lions, owls and dolphins—into the mix, rendering them in gold on discs made of black jade or tiger’s eye.

When it launched about halfway through the last decade, Azlee only featured gold and diamond designs for its first several seasons, but has slowly and thoughtfully incorporated colored gemstones into the collection.


The brand began with emeralds and in 2020, branching out into many more, like the aforementioned jade and tiger’s eye as well as rubies and unexpectedly delightful agate.

In late 2019 and early 2020 Azlee rolled out medallions inspired by the Byzantine era, featuring cabochon gemstones like rhodolite, emerald, moonstone and black spinel.

They provide the collection a reprieve from symbols, with a cleaner aesthetic that seems to bridge the ancient and Art Deco influences.

Other palette cleansers include gemstone beaded necklaces in agate, tiger’s eye, ruby and emerald, and even a luxurious gold bar bead version.

Azlee’s bespoke bridal business has centered on unique fancy-cut diamonds like kites and shields, and these feature in many new collection pieces as well, like gold bar earrings with carré- (a square step cut) and bullet-shaped diamonds, or as pendants in the new “Staircase” mini-collection, which features various stones framed in levels of gold.
“The collection was inspired by ancient structures with ascending levels and indulgent gemstones of the past,” said Zwart of her latest pieces debuted throughout the year.

“These themes are translated into the layers of gold seen throughout the collection and topped with emeralds, rubies and diamonds. As always, the pieces are sculptural and inspired by the Art Deco era, ancient symbols and female muses.”

Visit the Azlee website to see the designer’s full array.
 
Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

Foundrae Palm Beach Location Exterior and Founder Beth Hutchens
IndependentsNov 07, 2025
Foundrae’s New Palm Beach Location Is a ‘Golden Solarium’

The brand’s seventh location combines Foundrae’s symbolic vocabulary with motifs from Florida’s natural surroundings.

Watches of Switzerland Mall of America store
FinancialsNov 07, 2025
Watches of Switzerland’s H1 Sales Up 8%

The retailer also shared an update on the impact of tariffs on watch customers.

AGTA Spectrum winners
SourcingNov 06, 2025
Pink Tourmaline Bracelet, Emerald Suite Take Top Spectrum Honors

Pink and purple stones were popular in the AGTA’s design competition this year, as were cameos and ocean themes.

20-Under-40-2025-LV.png
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America Aligns New Mission to Create Meaningful Impact for Members

From educational programs, advocacy, and recent MJSA affiliation, Jewelers of America drives progress that elevates businesses of all sizes.

G. St x Jewel Boxing Raffle for City Harvest Graphic
IndependentsNov 06, 2025
Greenwich St. Jewelers Hosts Raffle Supporting Food Rescue

All proceeds from the G. St x Jewel Boxing raffle will go to City Harvest, which works to end hunger in New York City.

Weekly QuizNov 06, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Courtney Cornell
IndependentsNov 06, 2025
Cornell’s Jewelers Names New President

Courtney Cornell is part of the third generation to lead the Rochester, New York-based jeweler.

Trucks at Orapa diamond mine
SourcingNov 06, 2025
De Beers’ Production, Sales Increase in Q3

De Beers also announced more changes in its upper ranks ahead of parent company Anglo American’s pending sale of the company.

Supplier Spotlight -Recorded-Webinar.png
Brought to you by
Watch: Introducing GIA Jewelry Services

Supplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA

Ulrich Wohn
WatchesNov 05, 2025
Shinola President Steps Down Just as He Starts

Former Signet CEO Mark Light will remain president of Shinola until a replacement for Ulrich Wohn is found.

Artifex White Diamond, Fancy Dark Yellowish Brown Diamond, and Blue Sapphire Rings
AuctionsNov 05, 2025
Taylor Swift’s Engagement Ring Designer Makes Her Auction Debut

Kindred Lubeck of Artifex has three rings she designed with Anup Jogani in Sotheby’s upcoming Gem Drop sale.

Tyla Pandora Talisman collection
FinancialsNov 05, 2025
Pandora Posts Modest Q3 Sales Growth Amid ‘Weak’ Consumer Sentiment

The company focused on marketing in the third quarter and introduced two new charm collections, “Pandora Talisman” and “Pandora Minis.”

Brilliant Earth Jane Goodall Peace Medallion
FinancialsNov 05, 2025
Brilliant Earth’s Q3 Sales Climb 10%

The jewelry retailer raised its full-year guidance, with CFO Jeff Kuo describing the company as “very well positioned” for the holidays.

US Supreme Court
Policies & IssuesNov 04, 2025
Supreme Court to Hear Tariffs Case Wednesday

Ahead of the hearing, two industry organizations co-signed an amicus brief urging the court to declare Trump’s tariffs unlawful.

Stuller Inc.’s Danny Clark, Matt Stuller, and Belit Myers
MajorsNov 04, 2025
Danny Clark to Become Stuller CEO, Succeeding Matt Stuller

Stuller COO Belit Myers will take on the additional role of president, with all changes effective at the start of 2026.

Headshot of National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsNov 04, 2025
Peter Smith: What Do Birds Have to Do With the Price of Gold?

Smith cautions retailers against expending too much energy on things they can’t control, like the rising price of gold.

Mellerio Jardin Pierreries Necklace
TrendsNov 04, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Fall Colors for November Birthdays

Citrine and topaz are birthstones fit for fall as the leaves change color and the holiday season approaches.

Weston Jewelers Fort Lauderdale store rendering
IndependentsNov 04, 2025
Weston Jewelers Heads to Fort Lauderdale

The family-owned jeweler will open its fourth store in Florida in late 2027.

Two of the three suspects in burglary at Queens jeweler’s home
CrimeNov 03, 2025
Men Dressed as Construction Workers Burglarize Jeweler’s Home

The NYPD is looking for three men who stole a safe and jewelry valued at $3.2 million from the home of a jeweler in Jamaica Hills, Queens.

Matthew Rosenheim
MajorsNov 03, 2025
Matthew Rosenheim Takes Over as JA Board Chair

The trade organization also announced its executive committee and five new directors.

Muse’s Have a Heart x Diamonds Do Good Collection on Flaviana Matata
CollectionsNov 03, 2025
Muse’s ‘Have a Heart’ Collab Returns, Now With DDG

The “Have a Heart x Diamonds Do Good” collection is championed by model and humanitarian Flaviana Matata and will benefit her foundation.

Christies Kashmir sapphire ring
AuctionsNov 03, 2025
Kashmir Sapphire Ring Tops Christie's Online Auction

The ring, set with a nearly 17-carat Kashmir cabochon sapphire, sold for $1 million.

Heavenly Vices Mother Father Spinner Necklace
TrendsOct 31, 2025
Piece of the Week: A Spinner Fit for ‘Frankenstein’

This “Mother Father” spinner necklace from Heavenly Vices Fine Jewelry draws inspiration from Victorian Era jewelry.

Interpol Stolen Works of Art Database, The Louvre Museum Graphic
CrimeOct 31, 2025
5 More Arrested in Louvre Heist, Jewelry Still Missing

The suspects were rounded up in Paris and its suburbs on Wednesday night, but none of the stolen jewels were recovered with them.

My Next Question webinar graphic
Recorded WebinarsOct 31, 2025
Watch: How to Master Google Reviews for Your Business

Experts share top tips on how to encourage positive reviews and handle negative feedback.

GIA iD100® Technology
Supplier BulletinOct 30, 2025
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

Sponsored by the Gemological Institute of America

Seattle PD image of Menashe & Sons Jewelers following Aug. 14 smash-and-grab robbery
CrimeOct 30, 2025
29-Year-Old Man Charged in Multiple Seattle-Area Smash and Grabs

The suspect faces charges in the August robbery of Menashe & Sons Jewelers and is accused of committing smash and grabs at two pawn shops.

Alison Lou Lumière Fine Collection On-Model
Lab-GrownOct 30, 2025
Alison Lou’s New Collection Uses Lab-Grown Diamonds and Resin

The “Lumière Fine” collection was born from designer Alison Chemla’s interest in the transformative power of light.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy