A Rolex ‘Deep Sea Special’ Surfaces for Fall Auction
These watches rarely hit the market, and this particular timepiece is expected to sell for as much as $2.6 million.

Rolex created the “Deep Sea Special” in the 1950s in response to increasing demand for waterproof watches.
The company had already created a watch with a waterproof case—the Oyster, which came out in the early 1920s—but now wanted to go deeper by making a watch that could withstand the incredibly high pressure present in the depths of the ocean.
It began testing the first Deep Sea Special prototype in 1953 and, by 1960, had developed a watch that could be submerged to more than 10,000 meters—10,908 meters to be exact.
For reference, that’s 35,789 feet deep, or about 7 miles straight down.
Phillips likened the Deep Sea Special to a Formula One racecar, as it is designed to push the limits of what is possible, testing technologies later used on models serially produced for sale.
“The DSS is the watch that defined what Rolex is today; it is the philosophy behind its creation that led Rolex to focus on tool watches in general and dive watches in particular,” said Alexandre Ghotbi, Phillips’ head of watches for continental Europe and the Middle East.
“Without the Deep Sea Special, there would be no Submariner or Sea Dweller as we know it.”
The watch being offered at Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo’s sale in Geneva is one of a number of commemorative timepieces made to celebrate that first successful deep dive in 1960.
Crafted in stainless steel and gold, the watch was made in 1965 and is No. 35 in the commemorative series.
Phillips said Rolex never offered the Deep Sea Special for public sale. They were all either prototypes entrusted to people like oceanographer Jacques Piccard, who participated in the testing, or given to science and watch museums for display. (The Deep Sea Special No. 3 is currently on display in the Smithsonian.)
Only a handful of Deep Sea Special owners have offered them for sale over the years.
A total of five have been sold in the public sphere, Phillips said, and it has been 12 years since a Deep Sea Special last hit the market.
The Rolex Deep Sea Special will be part of Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo’s “The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV,” scheduled to take place at La Réserve in Geneva from Nov. 5-7.
The watch is estimated to sell for CHF 1.2 million to 2.4 million ($1.3 million to $2.6 million).
The Geneva sale also includes a full set of four Philippe Dufour watches and a complete set of five F.P. Journe’s “Souscription” watches.
For more information on the upcoming Phillips auctions, visit its website.
The Latest

Chris Blakeslee has experience at Athleta and Alo Yoga. Kendra Scott will remain on board as executive chair and chief visionary officer.

The credit card companies’ surveys examined where consumers shopped, what they bought, and what they valued this holiday season.

The “Serenity” charm set with 13 opals is a modern amulet offering protection, guidance, and intention, the brand said.

How Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.

“Bridgerton” actresses Hannah Dodd and Claudia Jessie star in the brand’s “Rules to Love By” campaign.


Founded by jeweler and sculptor Ana Khouri, the brand is “expanding the boundaries of what high jewelry can be.”

The jewelry manufacturer and supplier is going with a fiery shade it says symbolizes power and transformation.

Roseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.

The singer-songwriter will make her debut as the French luxury brand’s new ambassador in a campaign for its “Coco Crush” jewelry line.

The nonprofit’s new president and CEO, Annie Doresca, also began her role this month.

As the shopping mall model evolves and online retail grows, Smith shares his predictions for the future of physical stores.

The trade show is slated for Jan. 31-Feb. 2 at The Lighthouse in New York City's Chelsea neighborhood.

January’s birthstone comes in a rainbow of colors, from the traditional red to orange, purple, and green.

The annual report highlights how it supported communities in areas where natural diamonds are mined, crafted, and sold.

Footage of a fight breaking out in the NYC Diamond District was viewed millions of times on Instagram and Facebook.

The supplier has a curated list of must-have tools for jewelers doing in-house custom work this year.

The Signet Jewelers-owned store, which turned 100 last year, calls its new concept stores “The Edit.”

Linda Coutu is rejoining the precious metals provider as its director of sales.

The governing board welcomed two new members, Claire Scragg and Susan Eisen.

Sparkle with festive diamond jewelry as we celebrate the beginning of 2026.

The master jeweler, Olympian, former senator, and Korean War veteran founded the brand Nighthorse Jewelry.

In its annual report, Pinterest noted an increase in searches for brooches, heirloom jewelry, and ‘80s luxury.

Executive Chairman Richard Baker will take over the role as rumors swirl that a bankruptcy filing is imminent for the troubled retailer.

Mohr had just retired in June after more than two decades as Couture’s retailer liaison.

Shekhar Shah of Real Gems Inc. will serve as president of the Indian Diamond & Colorstone Association in 2026.

This year’s good luck charm features the mythical horse Pegasus, and is our first Piece of the Week of the new year.

Articles about crime, engagement rings, and a necklace worn in the World Series generated the most interest among readers.























