A Rolex ‘Deep Sea Special’ Surfaces for Fall Auction
These watches rarely hit the market, and this particular timepiece is expected to sell for as much as $2.6 million.

Rolex created the “Deep Sea Special” in the 1950s in response to increasing demand for waterproof watches.
The company had already created a watch with a waterproof case—the Oyster, which came out in the early 1920s—but now wanted to go deeper by making a watch that could withstand the incredibly high pressure present in the depths of the ocean.
It began testing the first Deep Sea Special prototype in 1953 and, by 1960, had developed a watch that could be submerged to more than 10,000 meters—10,908 meters to be exact.
For reference, that’s 35,789 feet deep, or about 7 miles straight down.
Phillips likened the Deep Sea Special to a Formula One racecar, as it is designed to push the limits of what is possible, testing technologies later used on models serially produced for sale.
“The DSS is the watch that defined what Rolex is today; it is the philosophy behind its creation that led Rolex to focus on tool watches in general and dive watches in particular,” said Alexandre Ghotbi, Phillips’ head of watches for continental Europe and the Middle East.
“Without the Deep Sea Special, there would be no Submariner or Sea Dweller as we know it.”
The watch being offered at Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo’s sale in Geneva is one of a number of commemorative timepieces made to celebrate that first successful deep dive in 1960.
Crafted in stainless steel and gold, the watch was made in 1965 and is No. 35 in the commemorative series.
Phillips said Rolex never offered the Deep Sea Special for public sale. They were all either prototypes entrusted to people like oceanographer Jacques Piccard, who participated in the testing, or given to science and watch museums for display. (The Deep Sea Special No. 3 is currently on display in the Smithsonian.)
Only a handful of Deep Sea Special owners have offered them for sale over the years.
A total of five have been sold in the public sphere, Phillips said, and it has been 12 years since a Deep Sea Special last hit the market.
The Rolex Deep Sea Special will be part of Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo’s “The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV,” scheduled to take place at La Réserve in Geneva from Nov. 5-7.
The watch is estimated to sell for CHF 1.2 million to 2.4 million ($1.3 million to $2.6 million).
The Geneva sale also includes a full set of four Philippe Dufour watches and a complete set of five F.P. Journe’s “Souscription” watches.
For more information on the upcoming Phillips auctions, visit its website.
The Latest

The luxury goods company said founder Ippolita Rostagno will remain at the brand’s helm.

Laura Burdese, who joined the Italian luxury brand in 2022, will take on the role in July.

The National Jeweler editors revisit the most noteworthy industry happenings and design trends from 2025.

How Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.

The lab-grown diamond grower now offers custom engagement and fashion jewelry through its Kira Custom Lab Jewelry service.


Chandler got his start at Michelson Jewelers and has served as DCA president and CEO since 2001. He will retire at the end of the month.

The boutique is slated to open this week inside Terminal 8, offering pre-owned Rolex watches and more to international travelers.

Roseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.

Sponsored by Digital Monitoring Products

The special-edition egg pendant ingested in a New Zealand jewelry store was recovered after a six-day wait.

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco plays favorites with Piece of the Week, selecting a standout piece of jewelry from each month of 2025.

The “Love and Desire” campaign is inspired by the magic that follows when one’s heart leads the way, said the brand.

Two awardees will receive free tuition for an educational course at the Swiss lab, with flights and lodging included.

Berta de Pablos-Barbier will replace Alexander Lacik at the start of January, two months earlier than expected.

Sotheby’s held its first two jewelry sales at the Breuer building last week, and they totaled nearly $44 million.

Winners will receive free registration and lodging for its fourth annual event in Detroit.

Here are six ideas for making more engaging content for Instagram Reels and TikTok, courtesy of Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams.

The honorees include a notable jewelry brand, an industry veteran, and an independent retailer.

Carlos Jose Hernandez and Joshua Zuazo were sentenced to life without the possibility of parole in the 2024 murder of Hussein “Sam” Murray.

Yood will serve alongside Eduard Stefanescu, the sustainability manager for C.Hafner, a precious metals refiner in Germany.

The New Orleans jeweler is also hosting pop-up jewelry boutiques in New York City and Dallas.

Set in a Tiffany & Co. necklace, it sold for $4.2 million, the highest price and price per carat paid for a Paraíba tourmaline at auction.

The jeweler’s “Deep Freeze” display showcases its iconic jewelry designs frozen in a vintage icebox.

Take luxury gifting to new heights this holiday season with the jeweler’s showstopping 12-carat sphene ring.

This year's theme is “Unveiling the Depths of the Ocean.”

In its annual report, Pinterest noted an increase in searches for brooches, heirloom jewelry, and ‘80s luxury.

Starting Jan. 1, customers can request the service for opal, peridot, and demantoid garnet.






















