Auctions

A Rolex ‘Deep Sea Special’ Surfaces for Fall Auction

AuctionsSep 15, 2021

A Rolex ‘Deep Sea Special’ Surfaces for Fall Auction

These watches rarely hit the market, and this particular timepiece is expected to sell for as much as $2.6 million.

20210915_Rolex Deep Sea Special profile.jpg
This profile shot of the Rolex “Deep Sea Special” shows the watch’s domed crystal case, designed to withstand extreme pressure. The timepiece is being offered as part of Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo’s upcoming Geneva watch auction, scheduled for Nov. 5-7.
Geneva—A rare Rolex watch originally designed to test dive watch depth limits is surfacing at auction this fall and is expected to sell for as much as $2.6 million.   

Rolex created the “Deep Sea Special” in the 1950s in response to increasing demand for waterproof watches. 

The company had already created a watch with a waterproof case—the Oyster, which came out in the early 1920s—but now wanted to go deeper by making a watch that could withstand the incredibly high pressure present in the depths of the ocean. 

It began testing the first Deep Sea Special prototype in 1953 and, by 1960, had developed a watch that could be submerged to more than 10,000 meters—10,908 meters to be exact.

For reference, that’s 35,789 feet deep, or about 7 miles straight down. 

Phillips likened the Deep Sea Special to a Formula One racecar, as it is designed to push the limits of what is possible, testing technologies later used on models serially produced for sale.

“The DSS is the watch that defined what Rolex is today; it is the philosophy behind its creation that led Rolex to focus on tool watches in general and dive watches in particular,” said Alexandre Ghotbi, Phillips’ head of watches for continental Europe and the Middle East.

“Without the Deep Sea Special, there would be no Submariner or Sea Dweller as we know it.”

20210915_Rolex Deep Sea Special front back.jpg
At left, a front view of the stainless steel Rolex “Deep Sea Special;” at right, the engraved caseback, which features the watch’s number in the series, 35, as well as the date and depth of Rolex’s successful test with the second Deep Sea Special prototype.

The watch being offered at Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo’s sale in Geneva is one of a number of commemorative timepieces made to celebrate that first successful deep dive in 1960. 

Crafted in stainless steel and gold, the watch was made in 1965 and is No. 35 in the commemorative series. 

Phillips said Rolex never offered the Deep Sea Special for public sale. They were all either prototypes entrusted to people like oceanographer Jacques Piccard, who participated in the testing, or given to science and watch museums for display. (The Deep Sea Special No. 3 is currently on display in the Smithsonian.)  

Only a handful of Deep Sea Special owners have offered them for sale over the years. 

A total of five have been sold in the public sphere, Phillips said, and it has been 12 years since a Deep Sea Special last hit the market. 

 Related stories will be right here … 

The Rolex Deep Sea Special will be part of Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo’s “The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV,” scheduled to take place at La Réserve in Geneva from Nov. 5-7.

The watch is estimated to sell for CHF 1.2 million to 2.4 million ($1.3 million to $2.6 million).

The Geneva sale also includes a full set of four Philippe Dufour watches and a complete set of five F.P. Journe’s “Souscription” watches.

For more information on the upcoming Phillips auctions, visit its website.

The Latest

NYC Jewelry, Antique, & Object Show Autumn Edition Imagery
Events & AwardsSep 22, 2026
NYCJAOS Returns for Autumn Edition

The four-day show is slated for Nov. 19-22 at the Metropolitan Pavilion in New York City’s Chelsea neighborhood.

Pamela Bernstein-Gulla and Elle Hill at the Wynn Las Vegas
MajorsSep 21, 2026
Longtime Industry Executive Pamela Bernstein-Gulla to Retire

Bernstein-Gulla has been working in the jewelry industry for 40 years, most recently as chief engagement officer for Hill & Co.

Bhindi Jewelers Glendale Store Ribbon Cutting Ceremony
IndependentsSep 21, 2026
Bhindi Jewelers Moves Into New, Larger California Store

The relocated Glendale store, now at The Americana at Brand, was designed to be a contemporary “timepiece haven” inspired by luxury resorts.

1872 x 1052 Gemolite.jpg
Brought to you by
Meet Gemology’s Next Generation Microscope: GIA® Gemolite® NXT Professional Edition

Experience gemstones with greater precision and comfort than ever before.

Photo from 2026 Jewelers of America Fly-In
Policies & IssuesSep 18, 2026
Tariffs, Retail Crime Top of Mind at JA’s Annual Fly-In

Retailers and manufacturers headed to the Capitol this week to discuss tariff exemptions for diamonds and gemstones, among other issues.

Weekly QuizSep 17, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Nanis Sway Earrings
CollectionsSep 18, 2026
Nanis Transforms Its ‘Boule’ Into a Mirror

Our Piece of the Week is a pair of drop earrings from the “Sway” collection featuring Nanis’ first use of mirror-polished gold.

De Beers Group’s SynthDetect 2 diamond screening instrument
GradingSep 18, 2026
De Beers Introduces Faster Version of Diamond Screening Machine

SynthDetect 2 can scan a full tray in less than five minutes, De Beers said, making it six times faster than its predecessors.

Cover.jpg
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk About

Submit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.

14th century gold seal ring
AuctionsSep 18, 2026
Noonans To Auction Medieval Gold Seal Ring Recovered By 2 Friends

Two metal detectorists discovered the ring, which may have belonged to English noblewoman Matilda of Lancaster, in Suffolk.

Stock image of shipping containers
Policies & IssuesSep 17, 2026
Tariffs on India Could Increase as Russian Sanctions Bill Heads to Trump’s Desk

The bill has a provision that allows the president to raise tariffs on countries that import Russian oil and gas to as much as 100 percent.

John Carter and Michael Richards
Events & AwardsSep 17, 2026
This Is the Winner of the 2026 Robert M. Shipley Award

The American Gem Society presented the annual award to a former president of its board.

Cynthia Erivo x Zoe Chicco The Chrysalis Capsule Collection Campaign
CollectionsSep 17, 2026
Cynthia Erivo, Zoë Chicco’s Jewelry Collab Is an Ode to Transformation

The “Chrysalis” capsule centers butterfly motifs representing growth, transformation, and the unfolding of who you are.

Kevin Patton
Events & AwardsSep 17, 2026
Louisiana Retailer Kevin Patton Wins Lifetime Achievement Award

Jewelers of Louisiana presented Patton, the third-generation president of Pattons Fine Jewelry, with the award at its annual convention.

Graphic for episode 9 of My Next Question featuring Pamela Froman and Remy Sasha
PodcastsSep 16, 2026
Episode 9: Remembering Cindy Edelstein

Two special guests join the podcast to commemorate the 10th anniversary of the designer advocate, mentor, and author’s untimely passing.

L’Objet x Jessica McCormack Homeware Collection
CollectionsSep 16, 2026
Jessica McCormack, L’Objet Collab on Homewares Collection

McCormack brings sea-inspired motifs from her “Beaches” collection to L’Objet’s tableware, vanity pieces, and first-ever cutlery set.

Stock image of police cars with flashing lights
CrimeSep 16, 2026
JSA Issues Warning to NJ Jewelers After Rash of Smash and Grabs

Nine New Jersey jewelers have been victims of smash-and-grab robberies this year, prompting JSA to circulate a list of recommendations.

Brian Hood, president of Bromberg & Co.
IndependentsSep 16, 2026
Bromberg & Co. Names New President

Marlin “Brian” Hood, who has been with the store for 20 years, will succeed Ricky Bromberg, who died earlier this month.

Midas Chain’s House of Midas Bridal Catalog
MajorsSep 16, 2026
Midas Chain Releases ‘House of Midas’ Bridal Catalog

The new bridal catalog features the latest jewelry collections and designs from timeless classics to modern silhouettes.

Florence Pugh Wearing Bulgari at 2026 Primetime Emmy Awards
EditorsSep 15, 2026
2026 Emmys Jewelry: An Either/Or Proposition

Stars wore either a necklace or earrings at 78th Primetime Emmy Awards but rarely both, Natalie Francisco notes.

Technology Therapy Group founder and CEO Jennifer Shaheen
ColumnistsSep 15, 2026
The Levels Your Website Must Clear Before AI Recommends You

Jennifer Shaheen compares this new era of AI-powered SEO to a video game: your website must clear one level before advancing to the next.

Armadani Retail Support Program Marketing Imagery
IndependentsSep 15, 2026
Armadani Launches Retail Support Program for Holiday Season

The program highlights “Made in Italy” fine jewelry with digital merchandising, sales education, and local marketing support.

Signet Jewelers Joan Hilson
EditorsSep 15, 2026
Q&A: Signet Jewelers’ Joan Hilson on Diamond Demand, the Holidays

Hilson, Signet’s chief operating and financial officer, discussed Q2, resurgent natural diamond demand, and why Blue Nile is a standout.

The Retail Smiths Principal Sherry Smith
ColumnistsSep 14, 2026
Sherry Smith: Stop Waiting for December to Save Your Christmas

The stores that have a great December are the ones that made good decisions in August, September, and October, Sherry Smith writes.

The “Pragnell Kimberley Sunshine Diamond,” 22.09 carats and fancy yellow
AuctionsSep 14, 2026
22 Carats of ‘Sunshine’ Are Up for Auction

The 22.09-carat fancy yellow “Pragnell Kimberley Sunshine Diamond” is part of the fall jewelry sale at Heritage Auctions.

Greenwich St. Jewelers Adornos photography exhibit
IndependentsSep 14, 2026
Greenwich St. Jewelers to Unveil Photography Exhibition

“Adornos: Jewelry, Memory & What We Pass Down” honors the jewelry’s importance to New York City’s Latine communities.

Stock image of rough emeralds mined by Gemfields
SourcingSep 14, 2026
Gemfields Sells All Lots at First Emerald Auction in 9 Months

The company’s managing director of sales said the results demonstrate “continued strong demand for commercial-quality emeralds.”

Kealeboga Pule and Black Coffee
SourcingSep 14, 2026
Diamonds Do Good Pledges Support for Eye Care Program

The nonprofit awarded a grant to the Gift of Sight initiative spearheaded by South African musician Black Coffee.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy