A Rolex ‘Deep Sea Special’ Surfaces for Fall Auction
These watches rarely hit the market, and this particular timepiece is expected to sell for as much as $2.6 million.

Rolex created the “Deep Sea Special” in the 1950s in response to increasing demand for waterproof watches.
The company had already created a watch with a waterproof case—the Oyster, which came out in the early 1920s—but now wanted to go deeper by making a watch that could withstand the incredibly high pressure present in the depths of the ocean.
It began testing the first Deep Sea Special prototype in 1953 and, by 1960, had developed a watch that could be submerged to more than 10,000 meters—10,908 meters to be exact.
For reference, that’s 35,789 feet deep, or about 7 miles straight down.
Phillips likened the Deep Sea Special to a Formula One racecar, as it is designed to push the limits of what is possible, testing technologies later used on models serially produced for sale.
“The DSS is the watch that defined what Rolex is today; it is the philosophy behind its creation that led Rolex to focus on tool watches in general and dive watches in particular,” said Alexandre Ghotbi, Phillips’ head of watches for continental Europe and the Middle East.
“Without the Deep Sea Special, there would be no Submariner or Sea Dweller as we know it.”
The watch being offered at Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo’s sale in Geneva is one of a number of commemorative timepieces made to celebrate that first successful deep dive in 1960.
Crafted in stainless steel and gold, the watch was made in 1965 and is No. 35 in the commemorative series.
Phillips said Rolex never offered the Deep Sea Special for public sale. They were all either prototypes entrusted to people like oceanographer Jacques Piccard, who participated in the testing, or given to science and watch museums for display. (The Deep Sea Special No. 3 is currently on display in the Smithsonian.)
Only a handful of Deep Sea Special owners have offered them for sale over the years.
A total of five have been sold in the public sphere, Phillips said, and it has been 12 years since a Deep Sea Special last hit the market.
The Rolex Deep Sea Special will be part of Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo’s “The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV,” scheduled to take place at La Réserve in Geneva from Nov. 5-7.
The watch is estimated to sell for CHF 1.2 million to 2.4 million ($1.3 million to $2.6 million).
The Geneva sale also includes a full set of four Philippe Dufour watches and a complete set of five F.P. Journe’s “Souscription” watches.
For more information on the upcoming Phillips auctions, visit its website.
The Latest

After the Supreme Court struck down the IEEPA tariffs, President Trump imposed a 10 percent tax on almost all imports via a different law.

The industry veteran, who was with The Edge Retail Academy for 14 years, joins her husband at the company he founded in 2022.

The vintage signed jewelry retailer chose Miami due to growing client demand in the city and the greater Latin American region.

With refreshed branding, a new website, updated courses, and a pathway for growth, DCA is dedicated to supporting retail staff development.

Former Flight Club executive Jin Lee will bring his experience from the sneaker world to the pre-owned watch marketplace.


Sakamoto, who died in mid-January following a sudden illness, is remembered for his humility and his masterful, architectural designs.

The April event will feature a new VIP shopping day requiring a special ticket.

Launched in 2023, the program will help the passing of knowledge between generations and alleviate the shortage of bench jewelers.

Bulgari chose the British-Albanian singer-songwriter for her powerful and enduring voice in contemporary culture, the jeweler said.

In a 6-3 ruling, the court said the president exceeded his authority when imposing sweeping tariffs under IEEPA.

Smith encourages salespeople to ask customers questions that elicit the release of oxytocin, the brain’s “feel-good” chemical.

JVC also announced the election of five new board members.

The brooch, our Piece of the Week, shows the chromatic spectrum through a holographic coating on rock crystal.

Raised in an orphanage, Bailey was 18 when she met her husband, Clyde. They opened their North Carolina jewelry store in 1948.

Material Good is celebrating its 10th anniversary as it opens its new store in the Back Bay neighborhood of Boston.

The show will be held March 26-30 at the Miami Beach Convention Center.

Are arm bands poised to make a comeback? Has red-carpet jewelry become boring? Find out on the second episode of the “My Next Question” podcast.

It will lead distribution in North America for Graziella Braccialini's new gold pieces, which it said are 50 percent lighter.

The organization is seeking a new executive director to lead it into its next phase of strategic growth and industry influence.

The nonprofit will present a live, two-hour introductory course on building confidence when selling colored gemstones.

Western wear continues to trend in the Year of the Fire Horse and along with it, horse and horseshoe motifs in jewelry.
![A peridot [left] and sapphires from Tanzania from Anza Gems, a wholesaler that partners with artisanal mining communities in East Africa Anza gems](https://uploads.nationaljeweler.com/uploads/cdd3962e9427ff45f69b31e06baf830d.jpg)
Although the market is robust, tariffs and precious metal prices are impacting the industry, Stuart Robertson and Brecken Branstrator said.

Rossman, who advised GIA for more than 50 years, is remembered for his passion and dedication to the field of gemology.

Guthrie, the mother of “Today” show host Savannah Guthrie, was abducted just as the Tucson gem shows were starting.

Butterfield Jewelers in Albuquerque, New Mexico, is preparing to close as members of the Butterfield family head into retirement.

Paul Morelli’s “Rosebud” necklace, our Piece of the Week, uses 18-karat rose, green, and white gold to turn the symbol of love into jewelry.

The nonprofit has welcomed four new grantees for 2026.























