Auctions

A Rolex ‘Deep Sea Special’ Surfaces for Fall Auction

AuctionsSep 15, 2021

A Rolex ‘Deep Sea Special’ Surfaces for Fall Auction

These watches rarely hit the market, and this particular timepiece is expected to sell for as much as $2.6 million.

20210915_Rolex Deep Sea Special profile.jpg
This profile shot of the Rolex “Deep Sea Special” shows the watch’s domed crystal case, designed to withstand extreme pressure. The timepiece is being offered as part of Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo’s upcoming Geneva watch auction, scheduled for Nov. 5-7.
Geneva—A rare Rolex watch originally designed to test dive watch depth limits is surfacing at auction this fall and is expected to sell for as much as $2.6 million.   

Rolex created the “Deep Sea Special” in the 1950s in response to increasing demand for waterproof watches. 

The company had already created a watch with a waterproof case—the Oyster, which came out in the early 1920s—but now wanted to go deeper by making a watch that could withstand the incredibly high pressure present in the depths of the ocean. 

It began testing the first Deep Sea Special prototype in 1953 and, by 1960, had developed a watch that could be submerged to more than 10,000 meters—10,908 meters to be exact.

For reference, that’s 35,789 feet deep, or about 7 miles straight down. 

Phillips likened the Deep Sea Special to a Formula One racecar, as it is designed to push the limits of what is possible, testing technologies later used on models serially produced for sale.

“The DSS is the watch that defined what Rolex is today; it is the philosophy behind its creation that led Rolex to focus on tool watches in general and dive watches in particular,” said Alexandre Ghotbi, Phillips’ head of watches for continental Europe and the Middle East.

“Without the Deep Sea Special, there would be no Submariner or Sea Dweller as we know it.”

20210915_Rolex Deep Sea Special front back.jpg
At left, a front view of the stainless steel Rolex “Deep Sea Special;” at right, the engraved caseback, which features the watch’s number in the series, 35, as well as the date and depth of Rolex’s successful test with the second Deep Sea Special prototype.

The watch being offered at Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo’s sale in Geneva is one of a number of commemorative timepieces made to celebrate that first successful deep dive in 1960. 

Crafted in stainless steel and gold, the watch was made in 1965 and is No. 35 in the commemorative series. 

Phillips said Rolex never offered the Deep Sea Special for public sale. They were all either prototypes entrusted to people like oceanographer Jacques Piccard, who participated in the testing, or given to science and watch museums for display. (The Deep Sea Special No. 3 is currently on display in the Smithsonian.)  

Only a handful of Deep Sea Special owners have offered them for sale over the years. 

A total of five have been sold in the public sphere, Phillips said, and it has been 12 years since a Deep Sea Special last hit the market. 

 Related stories will be right here … 

The Rolex Deep Sea Special will be part of Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo’s “The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV,” scheduled to take place at La Réserve in Geneva from Nov. 5-7.

The watch is estimated to sell for CHF 1.2 million to 2.4 million ($1.3 million to $2.6 million).

The Geneva sale also includes a full set of four Philippe Dufour watches and a complete set of five F.P. Journe’s “Souscription” watches.

For more information on the upcoming Phillips auctions, visit its website.

The Latest

Arena Club Twilight and Eclipse Time Boxes
TechnologyJul 10, 2026
There’s a New Blind Box for Luxury Watches

Collectibles platform Arena Club’s new Time Boxes could contain a Rolex or Patek Philippe watch.

Jade Trau Constellation Plié Collar
TrendsJul 10, 2026
Jade Trau Creates a Constellation of Diamonds

The “Constellation Plié” collar, our Piece of the Week, features diamonds arranged in a constellation of shining stars.

Former De Beers CFO of Brands and Consumer Markets Shaun Wills
SourcingJul 10, 2026
CFO of De Beers’ Consumer-Facing Division Leaves Company

Shaun Wills joined the company in 2024 and was chief financial officer of the De Beers Brands and Consumer Markets division.

Brought-To-By-Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center Stage

Colored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.

Brilliant Earth watches
WatchesJul 10, 2026
Brilliant Earth Expands Into Watches

In honor of its 20th anniversary, the jewelry brand has released a limited-edition collection of Swiss-made timepieces.

Weekly QuizJul 09, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Boucheron Human Being Collection Tattoo Necklace
CollectionsJul 09, 2026
Boucheron’s New High Jewelry Collection Is an Ode to the Human Touch

“Human Being” highlights the similarities and differences between us through five sets of jewelry that celebrate fine craftsmanship.

Baume & Mercier watch
WatchesJul 09, 2026
Damiani Group Finalizes Acquisition of Baume & Mercier

Richemont will continue to provide operational services for the watch brand for a period while the group prepares to integrate it.

DCA-NJ-article-1872x1052-060826.jpg
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce Solutions

DCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.

Enoch Michael
Events & AwardsJul 09, 2026
Halstead Names 2026 Grant Winner

Enoch Platero, founder and designer behind Enoch Michael, is the first Native American jeweler to win the award.

Karen Fox and Jenna Siegel
Events & AwardsJul 09, 2026
AGS, GIA Name 2026 Beatrice Shipley Scholarship Winner

AGS also announced the recipient of its “Women in Leadership” scholarship.

Kendra Scott
MajorsJul 08, 2026
Kendra Scott Joins ‘Shark Tank’ As Permanent Investor

The founder of the billion-dollar jewelry and lifestyle brand will debut as a full-time “Shark” on the upcoming season of the show.

Hands crossed with rings on
SurveysJul 08, 2026
Signet Jewelers Falls 5 Spots on NRF’s ‘Top 100’ Retailers List

Plus, why retailers should be ready to adjust as the U.S. population may decline this year for the first time since the Great Depression.

René Lalique “Woman Dragonfly With Open Wings” pendant
CrimeJul 08, 2026
Here’s What Thieves Stole From the Lalique Museum

René Lalique’s “Woman Dragonfly With Open Wings” pendant, the first piece the museum acquired, was one of the jewels taken.

Arien Gessner and Moss Makhoulian
MajorsJul 08, 2026
Richline Group Promotes 2 Execs

Arien Gessner and Moss Makhoulian have been elevated into newly created roles.

The Retail Smiths partner and National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsJul 07, 2026
Peter Smith: Diamond Branding and the Origin Paradox

A podcast prompted Smith to share his views on where origin fits into the natural diamond story and the viability of branded diamonds.

Jewelers of America Impact Initiative Recipients 2026
Events & AwardsJul 07, 2026
JA Announces 2026 Impact Initiative Recipients

The association selected eight recipients for the funding program, which is in its second year.

Zahn Z In Rubies We Clicked
TrendsJul 07, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Ruby, White and Blue

Whether celebrating America’s 250th birthday or the USA’s World Cup run, July birthstone jewelry can double as a patriotic accessory.

Police van outside of Musée Lalique
CrimeJul 07, 2026
Thieves Steal Millions in Jewels From France’s Musée Lalique

Around 20 pieces of jewelry were stolen from the museum dedicated to French jeweler and glassmaker René Lalique.

Robinson Pelham Summer of ’96 Campaign
CollectionsJul 07, 2026
Robinson Pelham Is Partying Like It’s 1996

The “Summer of ’96” campaign and collection celebrate the year the brand was founded for its 30th anniversary.

Sean Gilbertson
SourcingJul 06, 2026
Gemfields CEO Sean Gilbertson Steps Down

After eight years, Gilbertson is leaving his post at the mining company, which is currently facing a slew of operational challenges.

Bachendorf’s New Dallas Location Exterior Rendering
IndependentsJul 06, 2026
Bachendorf’s To Open Fifth Store In Dallas

The new location is set to open this winter, featuring the retailer’s first rotating jewelry designer residency.

Jung Kook for Graff
MajorsJul 06, 2026
Graff Names BTS Star Jung Kook as New Ambassador

The pop artist appears in the latest campaign for the “Laurence Graff Signature” collection.

Pandora pearl jewelry campaign imagery
CollectionsJul 06, 2026
Pandora’s New Baroque Pearl Collection Is a Whimsical ‘Wonder’

One-of-a-kind pearls take the shape of ice cream cones, frogs, submarines, and other imaginative charms.

London Diamond Bourse President Charlotte Rose
SourcingJul 02, 2026
London Diamond Bourse Elects First Female President

Charlotte Rose said her election is “a sign that this is an industry capable of change.”

Bracelets_1872_1052.jpg
Supplier BulletinJul 02, 2026
Elevating Retail Showcases with Today's Necklace & Bracelet Trends

Sponsored by Rio Grande Jewelry Supply

Oscar Heyman Flag Brooch
TrendsJul 02, 2026
Oscar Heyman’s Flag Brooch Celebrates America

The American jewelry house, founded by Latvian immigrants, has been creating American flag brooches since 1917.

D. Geller & Son store mural
IndependentsJul 02, 2026
D. Geller & Son Partners with KSU Art Students on Store Mural

The artwork celebrates the Atlanta jeweler’s legacy and symbolizes its commitment to supporting local artists and its community.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy