Auctions

Watches from Jean-Claude Biver’s Private Collection Up for Auction

AuctionsMar 02, 2020

Watches from Jean-Claude Biver’s Private Collection Up for Auction

The timepieces, all from Patek Philippe, are part of Phillips’ May watch sale in Geneva.

20200228_Jean_Claude_Biver_watches.jpg
The four watches from Jean-Claude Biver’s private collection that will be part of Phillips’ upcoming watch auction in Geneva are, from left to right, the Patek Philippe Ref. 96HU World Time, the Ref. 1518 in pink gold, the yellow gold Ref. 2499 and the platinum Ref. 1579.

Geneva—This spring, Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is selling watches from the private collection of one of the most well-respected executives in the watch industry, Jean-Claude Biver.

The 70-year-old innovator and marketing maven has spent nearly five decades in the watch industry; Biver started his career with Audemars Piguet in the mid-1970s.

His long list of accomplishments include turning around Omega, reviving the Blancpain brand and building Hublot.

When LVMH acquired Hublot in 2008, Biver moved over with the brand and by 2014, he was running LVMH’s entire watch division, which includes Hublot, TAG Heuer and Zenith.

In September 2018, news surfaced he would step back from the day-to-day operations of the division due to health problems but would stay with the company as a non-executive president.

While Biver has a long history with myriad brands in the watch industry, the four timepieces going up for auction are from a brand for which he never worked—Patek Philippe.

Biver is a Patek collector and showed off his watches—including the four going up for sale—in a 2014 “Talking Watches” interview with Hodinkee, joking with Benjamin Clymer that opting to collect Pateks was both a good and a bad decision.

“It was a good one because they are the leaders in the classical, traditional watchmaking part. It was a bad one because you need a lot of money to collect a few, “ he said with a laugh.

Phillips estimates the four watches could sell for nearly $7 million total, with the high estimates for three of the timepieces set at $1 million-plus.

There is a Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in pink gold with a pink dial from 1948.

Introduced in 1941, the Ref. 1518 was the first perpetual calendar chronograph Patek Philippe ever produced in series. The watch company made only 281 examples, most of them in yellow gold, before stopping production of the model, Philipps said.

Pink gold Ref. 1518s mostly were fitted with a silvered dial; only 13 Ref. 1518 watches with a pink dial are known to exist.

Out of the four Biver pieces in the auction, the pink gold Ref. 1518 is expected to sell for the most, with its high estimate set at 2.4 million Swiss francs ($2.5 million).

Another rare watch is the Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 second series from 1957.

Launched in 1951, the Ref. 2499 was the direct successor to the Ref. 1518,

but with round, sportier-looking pushers and a larger 37.5 mm case.

Biver’s Ref. 2499 is yellow gold with applied batons, and Philipps said there are only 20 watches like this known to exist. The auction house expects his to sell for as much as 2 million Swiss francs ($2.1 million).

Phillips is also auctioning a platinum Ref. 1579 from 1946. It is one of only three vintage Patek Philippe chronographs with a platinum case, with Phillips noting the three watches have consecutive serial numbers and different dials, making each piece one-of-a-kind.

The platinum Ref. 1579 belonging to Biver was the last of the three made and has its scales and markers in blue. Phillips estimates it will sell for as much as 1.6 million Swiss francs ($1.65 million).

The final watch in the collection is a Ref. 96HU World Time.

The World Time complication is considered one of the hallmarks of the Patek Philippe brand. The company started making World Time watches in series in 1939, but Biver’s watch is from 1937 and is a pre-series prototype made, most likely, to test the market.

Only two are known to exist, and the other example is in the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. Phillips estimates the watch will sell for as much as 600,000 Swiss francs (about $618,000).

Biver’s personal timepieces are being put up for sale as part of “The Geneva Watch Auction: XI,” scheduled for May 9 and 10 at Hôtel la Reserve.
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Tyrese Maxey The 1916 Company campaign
IndependentsDec 23, 2024
Philadelphia 76ers’ Tyrese Maxey Stars in The 1916 Company’s New Campaign

The retailer’s “On the Clock” campaign celebrates how time, precision, and purpose come together.

Jewelry by Sorellina, Francesca Villa, Cece Jewellery, Retrouvai, Ray Griffiths, Cartier, Cocoerow Fine Jewelry, and Gumuchian
EditorsDec 23, 2024
My Favorite Piece of the Week Jewels of 2024

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco chose her 12 favorite Piece of the Week picks from the year gone by.

GIA emerald report
GradingDec 23, 2024
GIA Adds Filler Identification to Emerald Reports

Lab clients have the option to request this addition on their emerald reports.

ride_or_die_1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
A Diamond Is Forever Celebrates "Forever Present" Holiday Campaign

A Diamond is Forever hosted a holiday celebration in honor of their new marketing campaign, ‘Forever Present.’

Ella Klein Interns Jamie Dunton and Gabriella Botelho
Events & AwardsDec 20, 2024
Two Participants Complete Inaugural Ella Klein Internship

Jamie Dunton and Gabriella Botelho are the first graduates of the program, created by the WJA Foundation and Julius Klein Diamonds.

Weekly QuizDec 19, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Retrouvai Green Sapphire and Diamond Heirloom Bezel Ring for Charity
CollectionsDec 20, 2024
Piece of the Week: Retrouvaí’s Ring for Charity

In the spirit of giving, Retrouvaí will donate $4,000 from the sale of this ring to the Los Angeles Regional Food Bank.

DeVries Jewelers
IndependentsDec 19, 2024
Michigan’s DeVries Jewelers Unveils New Location in Time for the Holidays

Co-owner Dan DeVries shared what it’s like moving into a space triple the size of its old store and how it feels to be a “real jeweler” now.

me_myself_and_I_1872x1052 .jpg
Brought to you by
De Beers Group Launches Holiday Campaign for Natural Diamonds

‘Forever Present’ campaign revives the iconic A Diamond is Forever tagline and celebrates the diamond dream.

State Property Gardens Collection Campaign
CollectionsDec 19, 2024
State Property Transforms Spain’s Generalife Gardens into Jewelry

Along with the latest “Gardens” collection, the brand has released limited-edition designs offering more indulgent pieces.

Two people in a rowboat
CrimeDec 19, 2024
Alleged Jewelry Thieves Attempt Rowboat Escape

The man and woman are accused of stealing jewelry from a shipping container then trying to flee by paddling a small boat out into a bay.

2488-carat diamond found in Botswana
SourcingDec 19, 2024
The Second-Largest Diamond Ever Found Now Has a Name

The 2,488-carat diamond recovered from a mine in Botswana has been dubbed “Motswedi” while its 1,094-carat sibling is “Seriti.”

Rough rubies
SourcingDec 19, 2024
Gemfields Reports Record Ruby Auction Results Despite Challenges at Source

The average price per carat hit a record high for the miner, which said it remains unaffected by the conflict in Mozambique.

Tiffany & Co. pocket watch gifted to captain of the Carpathia
WatchesDec 18, 2024
Historic Titanic Pocket Watch Winds Its Way Back to Tiffany & Co.

More than a century after survivors gifted a Tiffany timepiece to the captain of the ship that rescued them, the jeweler has reclaimed it.

Picchiotti Spotlight Campaign Video Still
TechnologyDec 18, 2024
Picchiotti Utilizes AI in ‘Spotlight’ Video Campaign

The videos highlight how pieces from the “Xpandable” and “Reversible Xpandable” collections put the wearer in the spotlight.

Steve Feldman
IndependentsDec 18, 2024
Industry Veteran Steve Feldman Set to Retire

Feldman reflected on 45 years in the jewelry industry and clarified that it’s not a total retirement.

Chanel Quilted Stars Necklace
Events & AwardsDec 17, 2024
Chanel to Receive Gem Award for High Jewelry Excellence

The luxury brand is being honored for excellence in high jewelry design in its “Haute Joaillerie Sport” collection.

Frank Circelli
SourcingDec 17, 2024
Frank Circelli, Founder of Gem Shopping Network, Dies at 75

Circelli was a pioneer in the world of TV shopping who is remembered for his passion for gemstones and his big personality.

Stock image of a gavel, handcuffs, and books
CrimeDec 17, 2024
‘Black Bin Crew’ Robbers Get 14-16 Years in Prison

The three men, who got their nickname because they’d toss the jewelry they stole into black plastic bins, were arrested back in August.

Cover of the new book “The History of Diamond Engagement Rings: A True Romance”
TrendsDec 16, 2024
Marion Fasel’s New Book Delves Into the History of Engagement Rings

“The History of Diamond Engagement Rings: A True Romance” is a 128-page small-format book containing more than 165 images.

Rolex store on Rodeo Drive
WatchesDec 16, 2024
Take a Look Inside the New Rolex Boutique on Rodeo Drive

Gearys opened a 6,200-square-foot Rolex store with a design that pays homage to the brand’s connection to the ocean.

GCAL 8X pear and marquise-cut diamonds
GradingDec 16, 2024
GCAL By Sarine Expands 8X to 2 More Fancy Shapes

The diamond cut grade is now available for marquise- and pear-shaped diamonds.

Claudia Cividino, Sissy’s Log Cabin, Shri Govind Dholakia, Tanishq
SourcingDec 16, 2024
Diamonds Do Good Announces 2025 Award Recipients

DDG said the honorees’ business practices embody a commitment to positive social impact, industry innovation, and community empowerment.

Selena Gomez, Benny Blanco, Engagement Ring
TrendsDec 13, 2024
Selena Gomez Said ‘Forever Begins Now’ to Marquise Diamond Engagement Ring

Estimates on the size and value of the solitaire diamond, which is mounted on a diamond pavé-set yellow gold band, vary.

Martin Katz tanzanite drop earrings
TrendsDec 13, 2024
Piece of the Week: Martin Katz’s Tanzanite Drops

These half-moon tanzanite earrings totaling 25 carats are part of a special trunk show taking place this weekend in Dallas.

My Next Question webinar graphic
Recorded WebinarsDec 13, 2024
Watch: The Highs and Lows of 2024

The National Jeweler editors recap the top news, the best jewels, and their favorite stories of the year.

Tom Brady’s Rolex Daytona Paul Newman “John Player Special”
AuctionsDec 12, 2024
Tom Brady’s Watches Top $4M at Sotheby’s Auction

The highest-grossing lot of the sale was the retired QB’s Rolex Paul Newman Daytona “John Player Special.”

Grizzly emerald mining
SourcingDec 12, 2024
Grizzly Emerald Auction Garners $22.4M

Recent expansion initiatives at the Zambian emerald mine have shown strong production numbers, said Grizzly founder Abdoulaye Ndiaye.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy