Auctions

Watches from Jean-Claude Biver’s Private Collection Up for Auction

AuctionsMar 02, 2020

Watches from Jean-Claude Biver’s Private Collection Up for Auction

The timepieces, all from Patek Philippe, are part of Phillips’ May watch sale in Geneva.

20200228_Jean_Claude_Biver_watches.jpg
The four watches from Jean-Claude Biver’s private collection that will be part of Phillips’ upcoming watch auction in Geneva are, from left to right, the Patek Philippe Ref. 96HU World Time, the Ref. 1518 in pink gold, the yellow gold Ref. 2499 and the platinum Ref. 1579.

Geneva—This spring, Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is selling watches from the private collection of one of the most well-respected executives in the watch industry, Jean-Claude Biver.

The 70-year-old innovator and marketing maven has spent nearly five decades in the watch industry; Biver started his career with Audemars Piguet in the mid-1970s.

His long list of accomplishments include turning around Omega, reviving the Blancpain brand and building Hublot.

When LVMH acquired Hublot in 2008, Biver moved over with the brand and by 2014, he was running LVMH’s entire watch division, which includes Hublot, TAG Heuer and Zenith.

In September 2018, news surfaced he would step back from the day-to-day operations of the division due to health problems but would stay with the company as a non-executive president.

While Biver has a long history with myriad brands in the watch industry, the four timepieces going up for auction are from a brand for which he never worked—Patek Philippe.

Biver is a Patek collector and showed off his watches—including the four going up for sale—in a 2014 “Talking Watches” interview with Hodinkee, joking with Benjamin Clymer that opting to collect Pateks was both a good and a bad decision.

“It was a good one because they are the leaders in the classical, traditional watchmaking part. It was a bad one because you need a lot of money to collect a few, “ he said with a laugh.

Phillips estimates the four watches could sell for nearly $7 million total, with the high estimates for three of the timepieces set at $1 million-plus.

There is a Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in pink gold with a pink dial from 1948.

Introduced in 1941, the Ref. 1518 was the first perpetual calendar chronograph Patek Philippe ever produced in series. The watch company made only 281 examples, most of them in yellow gold, before stopping production of the model, Philipps said.

Pink gold Ref. 1518s mostly were fitted with a silvered dial; only 13 Ref. 1518 watches with a pink dial are known to exist.

Out of the four Biver pieces in the auction, the pink gold Ref. 1518 is expected to sell for the most, with its high estimate set at 2.4 million Swiss francs ($2.5 million).

Another rare watch is the Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 second series from 1957.

Launched in 1951, the Ref. 2499 was the direct successor to the Ref. 1518,

but with round, sportier-looking pushers and a larger 37.5 mm case.

Biver’s Ref. 2499 is yellow gold with applied batons, and Philipps said there are only 20 watches like this known to exist. The auction house expects his to sell for as much as 2 million Swiss francs ($2.1 million).

Phillips is also auctioning a platinum Ref. 1579 from 1946. It is one of only three vintage Patek Philippe chronographs with a platinum case, with Phillips noting the three watches have consecutive serial numbers and different dials, making each piece one-of-a-kind.

The platinum Ref. 1579 belonging to Biver was the last of the three made and has its scales and markers in blue. Phillips estimates it will sell for as much as 1.6 million Swiss francs ($1.65 million).

The final watch in the collection is a Ref. 96HU World Time.

The World Time complication is considered one of the hallmarks of the Patek Philippe brand. The company started making World Time watches in series in 1939, but Biver’s watch is from 1937 and is a pre-series prototype made, most likely, to test the market.

Only two are known to exist, and the other example is in the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. Phillips estimates the watch will sell for as much as 600,000 Swiss francs (about $618,000).

Biver’s personal timepieces are being put up for sale as part of “The Geneva Watch Auction: XI,” scheduled for May 9 and 10 at Hôtel la Reserve.
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Stock image of gavel
CrimeDec 15, 2025
Men Receive Life Sentences in Home Invasion Murder of Jeweler

Carlos Jose Hernandez and Joshua Zuazo were sentenced to life without the possibility of parole in the 2024 murder of Hussein “Sam” Murray.

Eduard Stefanescu, left, and Sara Yood, right
Policies & IssuesDec 15, 2025
Sara Yood Named Co-Chair of RJC Standards Committee

Yood will serve alongside Eduard Stefanescu, the sustainability manager for C.Hafner, a precious metals refiner in Germany.

MS Rau Aspen rendering
IndependentsDec 15, 2025
M.S. Rau to Open Store in Aspen

The New Orleans jeweler is also hosting pop-up jewelry boutiques in New York City and Dallas.

Recipients Collage 2025 - NJ (1872 x 1050 px) (1872 x 1052 px).png
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow Today

How Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.

David Webb holiday window
MajorsDec 12, 2025
David Webb Reveals Ice-Cold Holiday Window Display

The jeweler’s “Deep Freeze” display showcases its iconic jewelry designs frozen in a vintage icebox.

Weekly QuizDec 11, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Oscar Heyman Yellow Green Sphene and Diamond Ring
CollectionsDec 12, 2025
Piece of the Week: Oscar Heyman’s Sphene Ring

Take luxury gifting to new heights this holiday season with the jeweler’s showstopping 12-carat sphene ring.

IGI Design Contest Graphic
Events & AwardsDec 12, 2025
IGI Jewelry Design Contest Now Accepting Submissions

This year's theme is “Unveiling the Depths of the Ocean.”

roseco-catalog.png
Brought to you by
Roseco Releases New Full-Line Catalog

Roseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.

Jacquie Aiche Alien Heart Eye Inlay Necklace, Cicada Dragonfly Brooch, Harkness After the Rain Earrings
TrendsDec 11, 2025
Pinterest 2026 Trend Report: Brooches, Bold Gold, Cool Blue

In its annual report, Pinterest noted an increase in searches for brooches, heirloom jewelry, and ‘80s luxury.

GIA new colored stone report
GradingDec 11, 2025
GIA to Offer Origin Determination for 3 More Gemstones

Starting Jan. 1, customers can request the service for opal, peridot, and demantoid garnet.

Day’s Jewelers Salem New Hampshire store exterior
IndependentsDec 11, 2025
Look Inside Day’s Jewelers’ Ninth Store

The 111-year-old retailer celebrated the opening of its new location in Salem, New Hampshire, which is its third store in the state.

Americas Gold Chain Catalog Volume 3
MajorsDec 11, 2025
Americas Gold Releases New Gold Chain Catalog

The new catalog features its most popular chains as well as new styles.

Rolex Miami store
WatchesDec 10, 2025
There’s A New Rolex Boutique in Miami

The new location in the Design District pays homage to Miami’s Art Deco heritage and its connection to the ocean.

Stock image of consumers shopping in the winter
SurveysDec 10, 2025
Consumer Confidence Drops in November

Inflations, tariffs, and politics—including the government shutdown—were among consumers’ top concerns last month.

National Association of Jewelry Appraisers logo
SourcingDec 10, 2025
NAJA Announces Details for 2026 ‘Ace It’ Winter Conference

“Longtime favorite” presenters, as well as first-time speakers, will lead talks and workshops at the annual event in Tucson next year.

Silas Smith and his Responsible Design Challenge Winning Pendant
Events & AwardsDec 10, 2025
MJSA Names 2025 Responsible Design Challenge Winner

Silas Smith of Meridian Metalworks won the challenge with his pendant that blends Australian and American landscapes.

Sothebys orangy pink The Desert Rose diamond
AuctionsDec 09, 2025
‘Desert Rose’ Diamond Sells for $8.8M in Abu Dhabi

The sale of the 31.68-carat, sunset-hued stone was part of Sotheby’s first series of events and auctions in Abu Dhabi.

National Jeweler columnist and Smart Age Solutions CEO Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsDec 09, 2025
Holiday Sales Happen in December, Most Decisions Don’t

Most customers who walk into your store this month have made up their minds. Your job is to validate their choice, Emmanuel Raheb writes.

Guzema Once Upon a Time Collection Campaign
TrendsDec 09, 2025
‘Once Upon a Time,’ Guzema Debuted Its Holiday Collection

The collection features characters and motifs from Ukrainian folklore, including an enchanted mirror and a magic egg.

Gemvision by Stuller MatrixGold 3.11
TechnologyDec 09, 2025
Gemvision Releases Updated MatrixGold

MatrixGold 3.11, the newest version of the jewelry design program, offers more flexibility, precision, and creative control.

Sign at the JA New York jewelry trade show
Events & AwardsDec 09, 2025
MJSA Showcase Pavilion Returning to JA New York

The pavilion will be part of the 2026 JA New York Spring show, scheduled for March 15 to 17.

Juell Kadet, former executive vice president of Rogers & Hollands
MajorsDec 08, 2025
Juell Kadet, a ‘Lifelong Pillar’ of Rogers & Hollands, Dies at 96

Kadet, a 1994 National Jeweler Retailer Hall of Fame inductee, helped grow the family-owned retailer in the Chicago area and beyond.

Lumia 2 smart earrings
TechnologyDec 08, 2025
You’ve Heard of Smart Watches and Rings; Meet Smart Earrings

Billed as the world’s smallest wearable, Lumia Health’s new smart earrings have a health tracker subtly embedded in the back.

Lionheart Wildflower Double Cocktail Ring
TrendsDec 08, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Celebrating December’s Birthstones

Don’t let those with December birthdays feel blue. Help them celebrate their month with blue zircon, turquoise, and tanzanite.

Robinson Pelham Tsar Star Earrings in Blaze
CollectionsDec 05, 2025
Piece of the Week: Robinson Pelham’s ‘Tsar Star’ Earrings

The new pink sapphire version of the piece dances with its wearer in the brand’s “Icons After Dark” holiday campaign.

Pantone 11-4201 Cloud Dancer
TrendsDec 05, 2025
Pantone’s Color of the Year for 2026 Is … White

A choice that’s generated a lot of commentary, Pantone says “Cloud Dancer” marks a fresh start and encourages relaxation and creativity.

Stuller holiday 2025
MajorsDec 05, 2025
Stuller Releases ‘Wrapped in Wonder’ Campaign

The manufacturer’s holiday campaign features a gift guide filled with trending designs and jewelry that can be personalized.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy