CollectionsJun 26, 2026
Strength Is Sharpened Into Beauty in Kris Averi’s ‘Prism Thorn’ RingThe rainbow version of the ring, our Piece of the Week, features angel-cut, octahedral lab-grown sapphires designed to be worn as armor.
AuctionsMar 02, 2020
Watches from Jean-Claude Biver’s Private Collection Up for Auction
The timepieces, all from Patek Philippe, are part of Phillips’ May watch sale in Geneva.
The four watches from Jean-Claude Biver’s private collection that will be part of Phillips’ upcoming watch auction in Geneva are, from left to right, the Patek Philippe Ref. 96HU World Time, the Ref. 1518 in pink gold, the yellow gold Ref. 2499 and the platinum Ref. 1579.
Geneva—This spring, Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is selling watches from the private collection of one of the most well-respected executives in the watch industry, Jean-Claude Biver.
The 70-year-old innovator and marketing maven has spent nearly five decades in the watch industry; Biver started his career with Audemars Piguet in the mid-1970s.
His long list of accomplishments include turning around Omega, reviving the Blancpain brand and building Hublot.
When LVMH acquired Hublot in 2008, Biver moved over with the brand and by 2014, he was running LVMH’s entire watch division, which includes Hublot, TAG Heuer and Zenith.
In September 2018, news surfaced he would step back from the day-to-day operations of the division due to health problems but would stay with the company as a non-executive president.
While Biver has a long history with myriad brands in the watch industry, the four timepieces going up for auction are from a brand for which he never worked—Patek Philippe.
Biver is a Patek collector and showed off his watches—including the four going up for sale—in a 2014 “Talking Watches” interview with Hodinkee, joking with Benjamin Clymer that opting to collect Pateks was both a good and a bad decision.
“It was a good one because they are the leaders in the classical, traditional watchmaking part. It was a bad one because you need a lot of money to collect a few, “ he said with a laugh.
Phillips estimates the four watches could sell for nearly $7 million total, with the high estimates for three of the timepieces set at $1 million-plus.
There is a Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in pink gold with a pink dial from 1948.
Introduced in 1941, the Ref. 1518 was the first perpetual calendar chronograph Patek Philippe ever produced in series. The watch company made only 281 examples, most of them in yellow gold, before stopping production of the model, Philipps said.
Pink gold Ref. 1518s mostly were fitted with a silvered dial; only 13 Ref. 1518 watches with a pink dial are known to exist.
Out of the four Biver pieces in the auction, the pink gold Ref. 1518 is expected to sell for the most, with its high estimate set at 2.4 million Swiss francs ($2.5 million).
Another rare watch is the Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 second series from 1957.
Launched in 1951, the Ref. 2499 was the direct successor to the Ref. 1518,
but with round, sportier-looking pushers and a larger 37.5 mm case.
Biver’s Ref. 2499 is yellow gold with applied batons, and Philipps said there are only 20 watches like this known to exist. The auction house expects his to sell for as much as 2 million Swiss francs ($2.1 million).
Phillips is also auctioning a platinum Ref. 1579 from 1946. It is one of only three vintage Patek Philippe chronographs with a platinum case, with Phillips noting the three watches have consecutive serial numbers and different dials, making each piece one-of-a-kind.
The platinum Ref. 1579 belonging to Biver was the last of the three made and has its scales and markers in blue. Phillips estimates it will sell for as much as 1.6 million Swiss francs ($1.65 million).
The final watch in the collection is a Ref. 96HU World Time.
The World Time complication is considered one of the hallmarks of the Patek Philippe brand. The company started making World Time watches in series in 1939, but Biver’s watch is from 1937 and is a pre-series prototype made, most likely, to test the market.
Only two are known to exist, and the other example is in the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. Phillips estimates the watch will sell for as much as 600,000 Swiss francs (about $618,000).
Biver’s personal timepieces are being put up for sale as part of “The Geneva Watch Auction: XI,” scheduled for May 9 and 10 at Hôtel la Reserve.
Biver’s Ref. 2499 is yellow gold with applied batons, and Philipps said there are only 20 watches like this known to exist. The auction house expects his to sell for as much as 2 million Swiss francs ($2.1 million).
Phillips is also auctioning a platinum Ref. 1579 from 1946. It is one of only three vintage Patek Philippe chronographs with a platinum case, with Phillips noting the three watches have consecutive serial numbers and different dials, making each piece one-of-a-kind.
The platinum Ref. 1579 belonging to Biver was the last of the three made and has its scales and markers in blue. Phillips estimates it will sell for as much as 1.6 million Swiss francs ($1.65 million).
The final watch in the collection is a Ref. 96HU World Time.
The World Time complication is considered one of the hallmarks of the Patek Philippe brand. The company started making World Time watches in series in 1939, but Biver’s watch is from 1937 and is a pre-series prototype made, most likely, to test the market.
Only two are known to exist, and the other example is in the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. Phillips estimates the watch will sell for as much as 600,000 Swiss francs (about $618,000).
Biver’s personal timepieces are being put up for sale as part of “The Geneva Watch Auction: XI,” scheduled for May 9 and 10 at Hôtel la Reserve.
More on Auctions
The Latest
MajorsJun 26, 2026
Rembrandt Charms Debuts ‘Charms That Give Back’The new initiative donates a portion of the proceeds from select charms to charitable causes.
TrendsJun 26, 2026
Bernard James Celebrates Knicks’ Win with RingThe Brooklyn-based jeweler created a limited-edition version of its “Aura” eternity band, set with gemstones in the team’s colors.
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center StageColored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.
SourcingJun 25, 2026
ICA Names Brandee Dallow as CEODallow will lead the International Colored Gemstone Association, effective July 6.
Weekly QuizJun 25, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
EditorsJun 25, 2026
Out & About: How Jewelers Mutual, SCAD Are Tackling the Bench Jeweler ShortageSenior Editor Lenore Fedow headed to Savannah to learn more about the 10-year, $10 million partnership between JM and the art school.
CollectionsJun 25, 2026
Mejuri Experiments With SteelIts new capsule jewelry collection features gold-finished stainless steel pieces designed for a maximalist look without a luxury price tag.
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce SolutionsDCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.
Events & AwardsJun 25, 2026
Watches & Wonders Announces 2027 DatesThe week-long event in Geneva is slated for April 2027.
SourcingJun 25, 2026
Annie Doresca, Mark Smelzer, Sara Yood Join Gem Legacy BoardThe three industry leaders bring financial, communications, and legal expertise to the nonprofit’s board of directors.
ColumnistsJun 24, 2026
The Revenue Hiding Between Your Counter and Your Online CartJewelers are missing out by not offering this one key add-on at the online point of sale, Emmanuel Raheb writes.
CollectionsJun 24, 2026
Greenwich St. Jewelers, Jewel Boxing’s Latest Drop Is On-TrendThe fourth collaborative collection from the retailer and jewelry content creator focuses on gemstone charms and strands of colorful beads.
Events & AwardsJun 24, 2026
AGTA Accepting Entries for Spectrum 2026This year’s AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards will feature two new categories.
SourcingJun 24, 2026
Columbia Gem House To Offer Alexandrite Melee OnlineThe collection features traceable alexandrite from Brazil in calibrated sizes that is sorted by grade.
MajorsJun 24, 2026
CaratLane Names New Chief Sales OfficerDhaval Raja has been appointed to the role.
CollectionsJun 23, 2026
Francesca Villa Goes ‘On the Road’The capsule collection looks to vintage trunk pins that echo the spirit of speed, freedom, and the mythology of the American road trip.
SourcingJun 23, 2026
New Paraíba Tourmaline Source Reportedly Discovered in EthiopiaSSEF issued a notice about the potential new source of the sought-after gemstone, citing “credible reports” from trade sources.
MajorsJun 23, 2026
Etsy Says ‘Shop Other Jeffs’ This Prime DayAs Amazon Prime Day kicks off, Etsy is encouraging shoppers to support small businesses.
Events & AwardsJun 23, 2026
AGA Announces 2026 Scholarship WinnerCole Winward is the recipient of 2026 AGA Gemological Scholarship.
EditorsJun 22, 2026
15 Pieces of Jewelry That Brought Us Joy in Vegas Whether they evoked nostalgia, wonder, or laughter, these jewels put a smile on our faces.
Events & AwardsJun 22, 2026
Plans Announced for New Trade Show in BaselScheduled for April 2027, Basilia will be the first watch and jewelry trade show held in Basel since the collapse of Baselworld in 2020.
Events & AwardsJun 22, 2026
Gem Awards Opens 2027 Nomination PeriodSubmissions for the milestone 25th annual Gem Awards will be accepted across three categories from now through July 31.
WatchesJun 22, 2026
Snoopy Inspires New ‘Flying Ace’ Ball WatchThe beloved beagle dons his aviator outfit for the new Engineer Master II Snoopy Flying Ace timepiece.
CollectionsJun 18, 2026
Michelle Obama Wears Almasika Earrings Symbolizing Feminine PowerShe wore the “Le Cauri Endiamanté” earrings, our Piece of the Week, in the Obamas’ first dual portrait for the Obama Presidential Center.
PodcastsJun 17, 2026
Episode 6: Las Vegas 2026-Trends, Traffic, Broken BathroomsCouture’s Michelle Orman joins Amanda Gizzi and Michelle Graff for this special post-Market Week episode of My Next Question.
GradingJun 17, 2026
SSEF Issues Warning on Refilled EmeraldsThe lab is seeing emeralds with filler added post-testing enter the market, accompanied by reports that indicate little to no treatment.
WatchesJun 17, 2026
Patek Philippe’s ‘Visionary’ Leader Philippe Stern Dies at 88 The third generation of the Stern family to head Patek Philippe, he navigated the “quartz crisis” and preserved the brand’s independence.
