GradingOct 24, 2025
DMIA to Hold Diamond Testing Instrument DemoThe workshop will give attendees the chance to try out and ask questions about three different diamond verification instruments.
AuctionsMar 02, 2020
Watches from Jean-Claude Biver’s Private Collection Up for Auction
The timepieces, all from Patek Philippe, are part of Phillips’ May watch sale in Geneva.
The four watches from Jean-Claude Biver’s private collection that will be part of Phillips’ upcoming watch auction in Geneva are, from left to right, the Patek Philippe Ref. 96HU World Time, the Ref. 1518 in pink gold, the yellow gold Ref. 2499 and the platinum Ref. 1579.
Geneva—This spring, Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is selling watches from the private collection of one of the most well-respected executives in the watch industry, Jean-Claude Biver.
The 70-year-old innovator and marketing maven has spent nearly five decades in the watch industry; Biver started his career with Audemars Piguet in the mid-1970s.
His long list of accomplishments include turning around Omega, reviving the Blancpain brand and building Hublot.
When LVMH acquired Hublot in 2008, Biver moved over with the brand and by 2014, he was running LVMH’s entire watch division, which includes Hublot, TAG Heuer and Zenith.
In September 2018, news surfaced he would step back from the day-to-day operations of the division due to health problems but would stay with the company as a non-executive president.
While Biver has a long history with myriad brands in the watch industry, the four timepieces going up for auction are from a brand for which he never worked—Patek Philippe.
Biver is a Patek collector and showed off his watches—including the four going up for sale—in a 2014 “Talking Watches” interview with Hodinkee, joking with Benjamin Clymer that opting to collect Pateks was both a good and a bad decision.
“It was a good one because they are the leaders in the classical, traditional watchmaking part. It was a bad one because you need a lot of money to collect a few, “ he said with a laugh.
Phillips estimates the four watches could sell for nearly $7 million total, with the high estimates for three of the timepieces set at $1 million-plus.
There is a Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in pink gold with a pink dial from 1948.
Introduced in 1941, the Ref. 1518 was the first perpetual calendar chronograph Patek Philippe ever produced in series. The watch company made only 281 examples, most of them in yellow gold, before stopping production of the model, Philipps said.
Pink gold Ref. 1518s mostly were fitted with a silvered dial; only 13 Ref. 1518 watches with a pink dial are known to exist.
Out of the four Biver pieces in the auction, the pink gold Ref. 1518 is expected to sell for the most, with its high estimate set at 2.4 million Swiss francs ($2.5 million).
Another rare watch is the Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 second series from 1957.
Launched in 1951, the Ref. 2499 was the direct successor to the Ref. 1518,
but with round, sportier-looking pushers and a larger 37.5 mm case.
Biver’s Ref. 2499 is yellow gold with applied batons, and Philipps said there are only 20 watches like this known to exist. The auction house expects his to sell for as much as 2 million Swiss francs ($2.1 million).
Phillips is also auctioning a platinum Ref. 1579 from 1946. It is one of only three vintage Patek Philippe chronographs with a platinum case, with Phillips noting the three watches have consecutive serial numbers and different dials, making each piece one-of-a-kind.
The platinum Ref. 1579 belonging to Biver was the last of the three made and has its scales and markers in blue. Phillips estimates it will sell for as much as 1.6 million Swiss francs ($1.65 million).
The final watch in the collection is a Ref. 96HU World Time.
The World Time complication is considered one of the hallmarks of the Patek Philippe brand. The company started making World Time watches in series in 1939, but Biver’s watch is from 1937 and is a pre-series prototype made, most likely, to test the market.
Only two are known to exist, and the other example is in the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. Phillips estimates the watch will sell for as much as 600,000 Swiss francs (about $618,000).
Biver’s personal timepieces are being put up for sale as part of “The Geneva Watch Auction: XI,” scheduled for May 9 and 10 at Hôtel la Reserve.
Biver’s Ref. 2499 is yellow gold with applied batons, and Philipps said there are only 20 watches like this known to exist. The auction house expects his to sell for as much as 2 million Swiss francs ($2.1 million).
Phillips is also auctioning a platinum Ref. 1579 from 1946. It is one of only three vintage Patek Philippe chronographs with a platinum case, with Phillips noting the three watches have consecutive serial numbers and different dials, making each piece one-of-a-kind.
The platinum Ref. 1579 belonging to Biver was the last of the three made and has its scales and markers in blue. Phillips estimates it will sell for as much as 1.6 million Swiss francs ($1.65 million).
The final watch in the collection is a Ref. 96HU World Time.
The World Time complication is considered one of the hallmarks of the Patek Philippe brand. The company started making World Time watches in series in 1939, but Biver’s watch is from 1937 and is a pre-series prototype made, most likely, to test the market.
Only two are known to exist, and the other example is in the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. Phillips estimates the watch will sell for as much as 600,000 Swiss francs (about $618,000).
Biver’s personal timepieces are being put up for sale as part of “The Geneva Watch Auction: XI,” scheduled for May 9 and 10 at Hôtel la Reserve.
More on Auctions
The Latest
CrimeOct 24, 2025
Video Emerges of Louvre Jewelry Robbers Fleeing the Scene The footage shows two of the jewelry heist suspects descending from the second floor of the museum and then escaping via scooter.
CollectionsOct 24, 2025
Piece of the Week: Wyld Box Jewelry’s ‘Ray of Light’ EarringsFounder and designer Rosanna Fiedler looked to a vintage Cartier clutch when designing the sunlight-inspired drop earrings.
Brought to you by
Are Earrings an Overlooked Category? What Retailers Need to Know NowAs the holiday season quickly approaches, consider stocking one category that sometimes gets overlooked: earrings.
FinancialsOct 23, 2025
Jewelry Sales Resilient Despite Struggles at LVMH, KeringThe luxury conglomerates faced a challenging Q3 amid geopolitical and economic tensions.
Weekly QuizOct 16, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SourcingOct 23, 2025
Petra Diamonds Turns to Shareholders to Raise Capital The struggling diamond mining company, which owns the historic Cullinan mine, has launched a rights issue to raise about $25 million.
WatchesOct 23, 2025
‘Million Dollar Hip Hop Watches’ Recounts Watch HistoryThe book details the journey of watches as symbols of hard-earned success in hip-hop for artists like 2Pac, Jay-Z, and more.
Brought to you by
Protect Your Customers and Your BusinessYou deserve to know what you are selling–to protect your customers as well as your business and your reputation.
TrendsOct 22, 2025
The Taylor Swift Effect: Antique Diamonds EditionThe superstar’s August engagement put the stamp of approval on an already hot engagement ring trend.
TrendsOct 22, 2025
Don’t Forget These Diamond Jewelry Trends When Stocking for the HolidaysRetailers should offer classic styles with a twist that are a perfect fit for layered looks, experts say.
AuctionsOct 22, 2025
Pink Diamond, Vanderbilt Jewels to Headline Phillips’ Geneva AuctionThe nearly 7-carat fancy vivid purplish pink diamond could sell for around $9 million.
SourcingOct 22, 2025
In ‘Storied Diamond,’ Jared Jewelers Is Emphasizing the Journey The retailer’s new collection of engagement rings and fashion jewelry is set with natural diamonds that are traceable via blockchain.
CollectionsOct 22, 2025
Tiffany & Co.’s ‘Bird on a Rock’ Finds New PerchChief Artistic Officer Nathalie Verdeille has reimagined the iconic design in both figurative and abstract creations.
Events & AwardsOct 22, 2025
JFC Kicks Off Halloween Costume ChallengeFive dollars buys one vote toward an industry professional you want to see dressed up as a hero, or a villain, this Halloween.
Events & AwardsOct 22, 2025
Hillsborough Antique Show Gets New OwnerRecently acquired by KIL Promotions, the November edition of the public show in San Mateo, California, will be held Nov. 7-9.
GradingOct 21, 2025
GIA Examines Rare Bicolor Pink DiamondThe stone’s two zones, one pink and one colorless, may have formed at two different times, the lab said.
MajorsOct 21, 2025
Pomellato Brings ‘Global Attitude’ to Rodeo Drive FlagshipHollywood glamour meets Milanese sophistication in the design of Pomellato’s new store in Beverly Hills, California.
Lab-GrownOct 21, 2025
Grown Brilliance Opens First FlagshipThe New York City store showcases a chandelier with 1,500 carats of lab-grown diamonds designed by an FIT student.
Events & AwardsOct 21, 2025
‘Douriean Fletcher: Jewelry of the Afrofuture’ Opens at MADThe Museum of Arts and Design's new exhibition features 75 pieces by the designer, best known for her work in the “Black Panther” films.
AuctionsOct 20, 2025
Sotheby's To Auction 10-Carat Vivid Pink DiamondMaking its auction debut, "The Glowing Rose" is expected to fetch $20 million at the November jewelry sale in Geneva.
SourcingOct 20, 2025
2 Mozambique Police Officers Killed at Gemfields’ Ruby MineThey were attacked on Oct. 15, as approximately 40 miners without licenses marched on the mine’s gate.
CrimeOct 20, 2025
See the ‘Priceless’ Jewels Stolen During Daytime Heist at the Louvre It took the masked thieves less than 10 minutes to steal eight irreplaceable jewels from two display cases in the museum’s Apollo Gallery.
SourcingOct 20, 2025
Pristine Gems Names New Director of European SalesGemologist Lauren Gayda has previously worked at The Clear Cut, Taylor & Hart, and Effy Jewelry.
IndependentsOct 17, 2025
From the Jazz Age to the Information Age: London Jewelers Turns 100In 2026, the jewelry retailer will celebrate a milestone only a small percentage of family-owned businesses survive to see.
Events & AwardsOct 17, 2025
An Edit of Italian Jewels Is Coming to NYCThe new showcase dedicated to Italian jewelry design is set for Oct. 29-30.
TrendsOct 17, 2025
Piece of the Week: Judi Powers Jewelry’s ‘Stella’ EarringsTake a gaze at the sky with this pair of platinum diamond-set star earrings with blue lace agate drops.
IndependentsOct 16, 2025
Retailer Hall of Fame 2025: Jeffrey Zimmer Jeffrey Zimmer's decades of leadership at Reeds Jewelers are defined by integrity, a love of sourcing gemstones, and a heart for community.
